Challenges, Personal Bests Met in Peruvian Andes
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Challenges, personal bests met in Peruvian Andes BY LEO BEZMAN climbed my first 6,000‑metre peak bused to the charming, colourful city the situation deteriorated, we arranged on an Alpine Club of Canada trip of Huaraz. In Huaraz and around we an emergency evacuation using burros in 2010. That success opened new spent three days acclimatizing before and one arierro (burro driver) plus a taxi Ithoughts and plans in my never‑ending travelling to Ishnica Valley base camp. from the trailhead. He returned to safety passion for mountains. I returned home Easily reached from Huaraz and with in Huaraz, but it took him several weeks to Montreal with a desire to offer other a nearby alpine hut, the base camp is to fully recover and we learned once climbers the same chance of discovering, famous for being crowded, but was rather more that not everybody acclimatizes and eventually enjoying, high altitude lonely during our nine‑day stay. At 4,400 at altitude. Although I felt sorry for my mountaineering. metres, the challenges of high altitude distressed friend, I was happy to see the That’s how a long‑time dream, Peru’s become very real, so we began negotiating remaining group well acclimatized and in Cordillera Blanca came on stage. This our new reality. good spirits. compact range of mountains with 25 peaks On day seven, the alarm rang at Two days later at 2:30 a.m. under above 6,000 metres is well suited to a wide 2 a.m. All nine of us started up a steep a bright full moon, we left camp for spectrum of climbing skills and experience and rocky ridge, each walking alone for the summit of Ishinca. With a longer levels. It’s one of the best places for an a long while, fighting the night and the approach, more crevasses and steeper sec‑ introduction to high altitude mountaineer‑ cold and wondering if we might reach tions, our entire team of eight made the ing or serious technical climbs. the top. Regardless of experience, it’s 5,530‑metre summit in wonderful sun‑ I began planning mostly alone, last probably the same for the first climb of shine. Ishinca gave legacy to our trip and October. I presented the trip to the ACC every trip. Regrouping after two hours successfully concluded the introductory Montreal Section in December, then to we counted the first bail‑out. One hour portion. Back in camp by mid‑afternoon, other sections. Eventually nine ACCers later as we crested the glacier at 5,000 another altitude record for seven ACCers joined from Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto metres, the second bail‑out ensued, so was good reason to celebrate—albeit and Outaouais. As a fellow Club member only seven roped up to continue. With somewhat anxiously with our thoughts once said to me, climbing with people we just a few crevasses and moderate snow already to more serious climbs ahead. don’t know well or sometimes barely at slopes to negotiate, at 8:30 a.m. we The next morning we moved to high all is a fundamental element of the ACC reached the 5,420‑metre summit of Urus camp at 5,000‑metres to climb 6,032‑ experience; from all nine, only two knew Este—a personal record for six ACCers. metre Tocllaraju, which impressively each other before and only one had ever Overwhelmed by emotions, as always dominates the valley. In cold thin air, that climbed above 5,000 metres. after a long time away from mountains, I evening we decided to seize the weather The trip was conceived as an intro‑ sat a few minutes and enjoyed the beauty, opportunity and climb the next morning, duction to high altitude mountaineering the purity and the untouchable. Those as I believe people well acclimatized at for people with good climbing skills on indescribable minutes that make sense 4,500 metres should be able to climb at ice and snow. The schedule included a of all the efforts and the sacrifices; those 6,000 metres after very little or no addi‑ generous acclimatization period, two minutes only very few can understand. tional time at 5,000 metres. Moreover, a 5,500‑metre introductory summits and two Back in camp by early afternoon, good weather day should not be traded technical summits above 6,000 metres. we found one trip‑mate in trouble with for unnecessary rest or acclimatization We all flew to Lima from where we acute mountain sickness symptoms. As time. That decision, however, would come The ACC Eastern sections team is all smiles on the 5,420-summit of Ishinca. under fire the next day as at least one of From left, back row, Josiane Ruffa, Alain Turgeon, Geneviève Lefebvre and François De Léan. us questioned whether more acclimatiza‑ Front row, Benoit Mayer-Godin, Leo Bezman and Ryszard Tokarczyk. PHOTO BY VALENTIN JAUMOUILLE. tion time at the new altitude would have put us in a better position to summit. I don’t do a 6,000‑metre mountain every year, so my night was full of emo‑ tions with very little sleep. We headed out at 2 a.m. with three and four climbers, respectively, on two 60‑metre ropes. Saving weight, we carried no additional long ropes, thus making the teams dependable on each other for at least the descent rappels—a logistical oversight with serious implications. Seven hours into the climb, and finally into the sun, 400 metres below the summit, the unthinkable, and still so predictable, happened. One climber was exhausted and unable to continue. This Following the huge success of his expert-level descriptions are provided for each route, as Snowshoeing in the Canadian Rockies (RMB, 2011), well as level of difficulty, objective hazards, Andrew Nugara has now written the ultimate additional equipment requirements and handy guide for those just getting into the sport. listings of combined routes and family trips. A Beginner’s Guide to Snowshoeing in the Whether you are looking for an easy day on Canadian Rockies describes over 40 great flat terrain amid beautiful surroundings or routes for new snowshoers. The trips range something slightly more challenging, you will from scenic Waterton in the far south to the find it in this new guidebook. breathtaking Columbia Icefield in the north section of Banff National Park. Stunning colour photos, maps and detailed route Think outside. was quite dramatic since the rope short‑ hiked directly to Morena Camp at years. On a sunny and rare windless day age and missing bail‑out strategy would 4,900 metres. For the first time on the and overwhelmed by emotion, I reached force us all to withdraw. Furthermore, trip, bad weather grounded us there an the 6,354‑metre summit of Chopicalqui, hesitation in communicating the crisis additional day. With clear skies the next 10 hours after leaving camp. The minutes made the situation even tenser, and day, we eagerly climbed to high camp on the summit were profoundly reward‑ the decision to retreat more difficult to at 5,500‑metres, navigating fields of ing; the views and feelings again beyond accept. We were six ambitious climbers crevasses with half‑collapsed bridges and belief. In such moments, my thoughts with a strong desire to reach our first numerous hanging seracs. Although in a flew to the ones far away I love the most, 6,000‑metre summit in full view only a tense mood, everybody felt well and ready the ones who missed me so much this couple of hours away. The first goal of the for the challenge. year and to whom I dedicated the climb. trip, that everyone should return safely, Fifteen lights lined up Chopicalqui’s Another ACCer and guide reached was forgotten for a blip of a second, first steep slope at 1 a.m. Three Peruvians the summit shortly after me; two other and the responsibility on my shoulders and two Germans joined our group of Canadians stopped at 6,200 metres, less became unbearable for the first time. seven ACCers and three local guides. than one hour from the top. We all had We retreated with broken hearts Climbing with the lead guide in the first climbed higher than ever before and and broken team spirit, but found the team, I quickly realized fresh snow from enjoyed the clear day and astonishing energy to spend another night at our the previous day’s bad weather would views from the heights of Chopicalqui. 5,000‑metre camp to gain more acclima‑ make our climb more difficult. With that, With many thanks to fellow climb‑ tization for our remaining big mountain. climbing at night on an unfamiliar glacier ers: Ryszard Tokarczyk (ACC Ottawa I was heartbroken too. I bear the heavy was not an easy task. Focused on my own Section), Alain Turgeon (Outaouais), responsibility of not trying to conciliate, work, I didn’t notice as the Germans, then Geneviève Lefebvre (Montreal, regain confidence and the next day, Peruvians and two Canadian teams turned Outaouais), François De Léan make a second attempt that would have around, leaving only four ACCers and two (Outaouais, Ottawa, Laurentian), Benoit had a reasonable chance of success, I guides on the mountain after sunrise. Mayer‑Godin (Montreal), Manel Nitu now think. We descended to base camp Gaining altitude, we ran into more (Montreal), Josiane Ruffa (Toronto) and instead, returning to Huaraz the day technical terrain but also reached the Valentin Jaumouille (Toronto). after for a good rest, good food and team warmth of the sun and the splendour Leo Bezman belongs to the ACC’s reconciliation.