PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES SANTA CRUZ TREK With
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Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
476 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Glaciers That Our Access Was Finally Made Through the Mountain Rampart
476 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL glaciers that our access was finally made through the mountain rampart. One group operated there and climbed some of the high-grade towers by stylish and demanding routes, while the other group climbed from a hid- den loch, ringed by attractive peaks, north of the valley and intermingled with the mountains visited by the 1971 St. Andrews expedition (A.A.J., 1972. 18: 1, p. 156). At the halfway stage we regrouped for new objec- tives in the side valleys close to Base Camp, while for the final efforts we placed another party by canoe amongst the most easterly of the smooth and sheer pinnacles of the “Land of the Towers,” while another canoe party voyaged east to climb on the islands of Pamiagdluk and Quvernit. Weather conditions were excellent throughout the summer: most climbs were done on windless and sunny days and bivouacs were seldom contem- plated by the parties abseiling down in the night gloom. Two mountains may illustrate the nature of the routes: Angiartarfik (1845 meters or 6053 feet; Grade III), a complex massive peak above Base Camp, was ascended by front-pointing in crampons up 2300 feet of frozen high-angled snow and then descended on the same slope in soft thawing slush: this, the easiest route on the peak, became impracticable by mid-July when the snow melted off to expose a crevassed slope of green ice; Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk (1373 meters or 4505 feet; Grade V), a welded pair of abrupt pinnacles comprising the highest peak on this island, was climbed in a three-day sortie by traversing on to its steep slabby east wall and following a thin 300-metre line to the summit crest. -
Folleto Inglés (1.995Mb)
Impressive trails Trekking in Áncash Trekking trails in Santa Cruz © J. Vallejo / PROMPERÚ Trekking trails in Áncash Áncash Capital: Huaraz Temperature Max.: 27 ºC Min.: 7 ºC Highest elevation Max.: 3090 meters Three ideal trekking trails: 1. HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE RESERVED AREA Circuit: The Huayhuash Mountain Range 2. HUASCARÁN NATIONAL PARK SOUTH AND HUARAZ Circuit: Olleros-Chavín Circuit: Day treks from Huaraz Circuit: Quillcayhuanca-Cójup 3. HUASCARÁN NATIONAL PARK NORTH Circuit: Llanganuco-Santa Cruz Circuit: Los Cedros-Alpamayo HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE RESERVED AREA Circuit: Huayhuash Mountain Range (2-12 days) 45 km from Chiquián to Llámac to the start of the trek (1 hr. 45 min. by car). This trail is regarded one of the most spectacular in the world. It is very popular among mountaineering enthusiasts, since six of its many summits exceed 6000 meters in elevation. Mount Yerupajá (6634 meters) is one such example: it is the country’s second highest peak. Several trails which vary in length between 45 and 180 kilometers are available, with hiking times from as few as two days to as many as twelve. The options include: • Circle the mountain range: (Llámac-Pocpa-Queropalca Quishuarcancha-Túpac Amaru-Uramaza-Huayllapa-Pacllón): 180 km (10-12 days). • Llámac-Jahuacocha: 28 km (2-3 days). Most hikers begin in Llámac or Matacancha. Diverse landscapes of singular beauty are clearly visible along the treks: dozens of rivers; a great variety of flora and fauna; turquoise colored lagoons, such as Jahuacocha, Mitucocha, Carhuacocha, and Viconga, and; the spectacular snow caps of Rondoy (5870 m), Jirishanca (6094 m), Siulá (6344 m), and Diablo Mudo (5223 m). -
DAV Summit Club
Vorbereitungskurse / Trainingsexpedition / leichte Expeditionen / 6000er & Hochtouren / Südamerika / Peru TRAININGSEXPEDITION CORDILLERA BLANCA MIT NEVADO URUS, 5495 M, NEVADO ISHINCA, 5530 M UND NEVADO TOCLLARAJU, 6034 M Beschreibung Trainingsexpedition, einfach, 16 Tage Expeditionsbergsteigen kompakt lernen Drei Ziele unterschiedlicher Schwierigkeit: Nevado Urus 5495 m, Nevado Ishinca 5530 m, und auf den Anden-6000er Nevado Tocllaraju, 6034 m Tipps und Tricks von einem erfahrenen Expeditionsleiter Expeditionserfahrener, Deutsch sprechender einheimsicher Staatlich geprüfter Berg- und Skiführer Programm Schneebedeckte Eisriesen, blauer Himmel, gute Erreichbarkeit – das ist Expeditionsbergsteigen in Peru. Diese Trainingsexpedition mit drei attraktiven Gipfelzielen unterschiedlicher Schwierigkeit ist eine Mischung aus Ausbildungskurs und richtiger Expedition. „Learning by doing“ heißt hier die Devise. Für das Bergsteigen in großer Höhe erlernen Sie wichtige theoretische und praktische Inhalte, wie z. B. das Begehen von Fixseilen und die richtige Akklimatisationstechnik. Sie üben Bekanntes, wie die richtige Handhabung von Pickel und Steigeisen sowie Spaltenbergung intensiv ein. Anschließend haben Sie ausreichend Gelegenheit, das Ganze auf einer richtigen Expedition anzuwenden. Ziel der Veranstaltung ist es, den routinierten Hochtourengeher systematisch auf die Teilnahme an einer größeren Expedition vorzubereiten. Erläuterungen: Gz 5 h Die Gehzeit ohne Pausen beträgt fünf Stunden. [F/M/–] [F/–/A] [–/–/A] Enthaltene Mahlzeiten: F = Frühstück; M = Mittagessen; A = Abendessen. 1. Tag: Abflug Flug mit Air Europa von Frankfurt über Madrid. 2. Tag: Huaraz, 3100 m Nach der frühmorgendlichen Ankunft in Lima fahren wir nach Huaraz über den 4100 m hohen Conacocha-Pass. Mittagessen in Barrancas, wo Sie von der Panamericana in Richtung der Weißen Kordilliere abzweigen. Hotelübernachtung. Fz ca. 8 h [-/M/A] 3. Tag: Huaraz, 3100 m Tag zur freien Verfügung, der für die Höhenanpassung vorgesehen ist. -
INVITATION to the ANDES. John C. Oberlin
INVITATION TO THE ANDES INVITATION TO THE ANDES . • BY JOHN C. OBERLIN (Names of mountains printed in italic are unofficial.) ......... Scottish Himalayan Expedition and other similar small parties have stimulated the hopes and aroused the ambitions of young · mountaineers, not only of Great Britain, but also of North America. lt demonstrated that the right sort of amateur party with limited funds could nevertheless explore and· climb in a remote region with eminent satisfaction and success. Many are eager to follow the example. I suggest that the Andes of Peru may offer what they seek. Peru ~s a magnificent country, bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west but largely draining into the Atlantic. This apparent anomaly is due to the extensive series of mountain ranges relatively near the coast which rise above 2o,ooo ft. and separate the strip of dry coastal plain from the luxuriant forests of the Amazon basin. .Most of the higher peaks are sheathed in snow and ice and many remain unclimbed despite the ready accessibility of their bases, for the simple reason that they are both difficult and dangerous. Other very large peaks, such as the volcano Coropuna (6,613 m.), offer no real problem other than their size. If the proper time of year is s~lected the weather is both com fortable and reliable, despite proximity to the equator, due to the effect of the cold Humboldt Current along· the coast and to the altitude of the valleys from which the peaks are reached. The Peruvians are friendly and most hospitable, and living and travel expenses are low. -
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES CIRCUIT of ALPAMAYO to ULTA
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES CIRCUIT OF ALPAMAYO to ULTA VALLEY 13 days trekking (option for 12 days) Grade: Hard Highest Point: 4850m Alpamayo Without doubt, the Cordillera Blanca range provides some of the most spectacular and varied trekking and climbing landscapes in the world. The range boasts more than 50 peaks of 5700m or higher of which some 20 surpass the 6000 metre mark. Huascarán is, at 6768m, the highest mountain in Peru while the pyramid of Alpamayo is arguably its most beautiful peak. We find, within this 170km-long range, the greatest concentration of tropical-zone glaciers on earth. Turquoise glacial lakes abound and vertical granite walls rise thousands of metres into the sky. Our Alpamayo Circuit trek weaves a route through the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, crossing a number of high passes which lead us into valleys with hugely varied mountain landscapes. The focal point of the trek is the famous Alpamayo pyramid, once voted the most beautiful mountain in the world. We have the opportunity to see it from Laguna Jancarurish. The expedition sees us cross the continental divide and, after a succession of stunning views, finds us camping at the amazing Avalancha Campsite (4650m) where we look down as avalanches crash from immense fissured glaciers on the flanks of the Conrahierbas massif. The trek ends after our final breathtaking pass at 4850m and descent to the Ulta valley. Note 1: Grading We have graded this trek HARD. Although the hiking is not technical, you cross several high passes via steep ascents. There are also some long, hard physically demanding days. -
Alpamayo Circuit Trek — Cordillera Blanca, Peru 2016 International Mountain Guides
Alpamayo Circuit Trek — Cordillera Blanca, Peru 2016 International Mountain Guides Trek with IMG this July in the incredible Cordillera Blanca Mountains of Peru. Enjoy nine days of trekking through the range with spectacular views of icy-clad peaks and passages through serene valleys of alpine tundra. We’ll have opportunities for close views of impressive peaks such as Huascarán (22,132’) and Chopicalqui (20,847’). Topping off the view list is Alpamayo (19,511’), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. This is a rugged high-altitude trek. We will not likely see many other trekkers along the way, a benefit for those looking for a reasonable challenge in a stunning alpine environment. One of our many views of Alpamayo This traditional style trek is suitable for new and experienced trekkers alike and for climbers who wish to delve into a solid high-altitude trekking routine. It’s a perfect choice if you’ve completed our Machu Picchu trek, Kilimanjaro, or if you’ve backpacked on some challenging overnight trips and are looking for a new adventure. One of our experienced IMG senior guides will lead the trip, in conjunction with local guides who we’ve worked with for years. Our trek route varies from casual walking along well defined trails to more rugged sections that will require some light scrambling, all made reasonable with the assistance of your guides. The entire trek is mule supported and the mules do the ‘heavy lifting’ of group and overnight personal gear, allowing team members to walk along for the entire experience with a light pack, carrying only the essentials for the day. -
Una Historia Regional De Conchucos, Siglos Xvi Xx
Entre quebradas y montañas: Algún motivo —que no me atrevería a atribuir únicamente a sus orígenes familiares en el pueblo de Chacas, provincia de Asunción, UNA HISTORIA REGIONAL DE en Conchucos— parecería indicar que la trayectoria de las investigaciones efectuadas a lo largo de los años por el doctor CONCHUCOS, SIGLOS XVI XX Miguel León Gómez condujese de manera inexorable al libro que ahora presentamos. La lista abarca su formación como historiador en la Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos y en la Universidad de Columbia, sus investigaciones en el Instituto de Entre montañas y quebradas: montañas Entre MIGUEL LEÓN GÓMEZ Estudios Peruanos, los trabajos sobre la región de Huánuco, sus encomiendas y encomenderos; sobre la población indígena de Conchucos, sobre la visita pastoral de santo Toribio de Mogrovejo REGIONAL DE UNA HISTORIA Miguel León Gómez, graduado de bachi- CONCHUCOS, SIGLOS XVI XX SIGLOS CONCHUCOS, a Áncash y aun sobre conciencia histórica e identidad. ller en Historia por la Universidad Mayor de San Marcos y doctorado por la Univer- Escribir una historia regional en el Perú es infrecuente, pero, sobre sidad de Columbia de New York, se ha todo, es una labor meritoria por su envergadura y los retos que dedicado a los estudios histórico-regiona- debe enfrentar. Esto es particularmente cierto cuando se trata de les de Ancash y Huánuco y a los estudios de los primeros dos siglos del período la región de Conchucos, un espacio muy poco estudiado a pesar colonial peruano. En la actualidad es de la riqueza de su ecología, de sus abundantes recursos naturales profesor de historia latinoamericana de la y de la extraordinaria creatividad y producción material de sus Universidad del Estado de New York en habitantes. -
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES SANTA CRUZ to ALPAMAYO TREK
PERUVIAN ANDES ADVENTURES SANTA CRUZ to ALPAMAYO TREK Cashapampa Santa Cruz to Hualcayan –Complete Circuit of Alpamayo Mountain Options for 10 to 12 days trekking Grade: Medium to HARD Highest point: 4860m Without doubt, the Cordillera Blanca range provides some of the most spectacular and varied trekking and climbing landscapes in the world. The range boasts more than 50 peaks of 5700m or higher of which some 20 surpass the 6000 metre mark. Huascarán is, at 6768m, the highest mountain in Peru while the pyramid of Alpamayo is arguably its most beautiful peak. We find, within this 170km-long range, the greatest concentration of tropical-zone glaciers on earth. Turquoise glacial lakes abound and vertical granite walls rise thousands of metres into the sky. Our Santa Cruz Alpamayo trek: Cashapampa to Hualcayan starts by following the famous Santa Cruz trek route and then weaves a course through the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, crossing a number of high passes which lead us into valleys with hugely varied mountain landscapes. The focal point of the trek is the famous Alpamayo pyramid, once voted the most beautiful mountain in the world. The trek routes makes a complete circuit around Alpamayo & we have the opportunity to see both sides of Alpamayo, from the Santa Cruz valley where the mountain is most commonly climbed from and then we have the spectacular pyramid face of Alpamayo from our camp at Cruce Alpamayo in the valley Dos Cedros. The expedition sees us cross the continental divide and, after a succession of stunning views from a string of high passes, we find ourselves on the final night camped at the beautiful crystal blue lake Cullicocha. -
Mountains Are Listed by Their Official Names and Ranges; Quotation Marks Indicate Unofficial Names
INDEX Volume 25 0 Issue 57 0 1983 Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher This issue comprises al1 of Volume 25 Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g. Peak 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information iti the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit. A Alaska, arts., 77-80, 81-86, 87-92, 93-97, 98-101; 139-52 Abi Gamin (Garbwal Himalaya), 252-53 Alaska Range (Alaska), arts.. 87-92, Abuelo (Patagonia), 209 93-97; 139-48, 149-50 Acay (Argentina), 206 Alaska Range (Alaska): Peak 9050. See Accidents: Annapuma, 240, 241-42; Broken Tooth. Peak 11300, 148 Annapuma III, 239; Bhagirathi II, Aleta de Tiburbn (Patagonia), 212 253; Broad Peak, 271; Cho Oyu, 232; Alfred Wegener Peninsula (Greenland), Everest, 8-14. 22-29, 227, 228, 183-84 229-30; Gasherbrum II, 269-70, 271; Alligator Rock (Rocky Mountain Gongga Shari,, 291-92; K2, 273, National Park, Colorado), 171 295-96; Kuksar, 283; Kun, 265; Allison, Stacy, 30-34 Langtang Lirung, 235; Makalu, 220; Alpamayo (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), Manaslu, 236, 237; Nanga Parbat, 284, 192, 194 288; Nun, 263. Porong Ri, 295; “Alpe Adria.” See Greenland, Peak 3270. Shivling, 257 Altai Mountains (USSR), 298-300 Aconcagua (Argentina), 206-7 Altar Group (Ecuador), 184 Adela (Patagoma), 209 Amadablam (Nepal Himalaya), an., AdrSpach (Czechoslovakia), 129-3 1 30-34; 222 “Aene Pinnacle” (Sierra Nevada, American Alpine Club, The: Blue Ridge California), 155 Section. -
Revista De Glaciares Y Ecosistemas De Montaña
ISSN 2519-7649 Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña Año 2, Número 3 – Diciembre 2017 INAIGEM Instituto Nacional de Investigación en Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña Huaraz, Ancash, Perú Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña INAIGEM Presidente Ejecutivo Ing. Benjamín Morales Arnao Secretario General Sr. Jorge Rojas Fernández Editor Mg. Steven A. Wegner Comité Editorial Sr. Jorge Rojas Fernández Ing. Ricardo Villanueva Ramírez Dr. Roberto Arias Flores Comité Consultivo Dr. Lonnie Thompson (School of Earth Sciences, The Ohio State University, Columbus, EE.UU.) Dr. Cedomir Marangunic Damianovic (Geoestudios, Santiago, Chile) Dr. Bernard Francou (LTHE - Laboratoire d’étude des Transferts en Hidrologie et Environnement, Grenoble, Francia) Prof. Dr. Wilfried Haeberli (Geographisches Institut, Universität Zürich, Suiza) Ing. Zaniel Novoa Goicochea (Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, Lima) Dr. Jeffrey S. Kargel (Department of Hydrology & Atmospheric Sciences, The University of Arizona, Tucson, EE.UU.) Dr. Enrique Flores Mariazza (Laboratorio de Utilización de Pastizales, Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina, Lima) Dr. Hildegardo Córdova Aguilar (Centro de Investigación en Geografía Aplicada, Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, Lima) Dr. Bryan G. Mark (Department of Geography, The Ohio State University, Columbus, EE.UU.) La Revista de Glaciares y Ecosistemas de Montaña es una publicación científica de periodicidad semestral (junio y diciembre). Tiene como objetivo difundir los resultados de trabajos de investigación en glaciares y ecosistemas de montaña desarrollados en los Andes, especialmente en el Perú, pero también en otros países andinos. La revista publica artículos científicos originales e inéditos especialmente en las áreas de glaciología y ecología de ecosistemas de montaña, así como disciplinas afines de ciencias de la tierra, ciencias biológicas y ciencias sociales. -
Peruvian Andes Adventures Guide & Driver
Superior Personal Tours in the Peruvian Andes Specialists in: Trekking, Climbing, Camping, Tours & Adventure Perú Head Office: New Zealand Office: Hisao and Eli Morales Anne Thomson José Olaya #532 104 Lord Rutherford Road Huaraz, ANCASH Brightwater, NELSON PERU NEW ZEALAND Tele: 0051 (0)43 421864 Tele: 0064 (0)3 5424222 www.peruvianandes.com Email: [email protected] TOURS & DAY HIKES (Tours Clients) 2019 Private Guided Service We have a variety of hikes and tours throughout the Huaraz and Cordillera Blanca offering options from easy tours or short hikes to hard full day hikes, all with spectacular scenery. Enjoy the grand Cordillera Blanca mountain scenery, crystal blue lakes, local village and friendly people at your own pace in the company of your private Peruvian Andes Adventures guide & driver. Most of our hikes and tours depart Huaraz early morning (around 07:30am to 08:00am) to allow you to take advantage of the (generally) morning nice clear skies offering the clearest mountain views before the afternoon warm haze descends over the mountain tops. Note 1: Hike grading and walking times are average estimates only for people of average to good fitness. Some people will be faster and others will find it more difficult and be slower. The effects of altitude do make hiking much harder than a similar hike closer to sea level and different people adjust to the altitude in a different timeframe. Note 2: Most hiking options in the Cordillera Blanca should be considered to be physically demanding owing to the altitude and the mountainous nature of the terrain. There are very few flat hiking options and trails on some hikes are steep – both ascending and descending and can be slippery & rocky in places.