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Issue No 11 – 2008 FREE They’re Here! They’re Queer! Thank God! Get ready: Iceland’s annual Gay Pride is coming EVE Online’s Virtual World Explored Lesbian Weddings Crashed Beer Day Remembered Kimi’s Summer Fun Tour Uncovered Gigs Deconstructed Restaurants Reviewed YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 11—2008 TAbLE Of CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD Grapevine loves August. There are so many crazy The Reykjavík Grapevine events to keep us happy. The month kicks off with Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Opinion numerous music festivals where locals and trav- www.grapevine.is ellers unite in a true holiday spirit. The following [email protected] TO Warn or NOT TO Warn, That is the Question week features the annual Drag Competition and www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine 06 An opinion by Alexandra Hertell Grapevine’s fabulous cover queen Steini gives us Published by Fröken ehf. a preview of what to expect. Then there’s the an- nual Gay Pride, with all its glittery costumes and Editorial: cheerful songs. For one whole day, gays, lesbians, +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Articles bisexuals and transgendered, together with tens Advertising: of thousands of pedestrians, will gather to support +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Contributing TO International Welfare gay-rights and celebrate the wins in the battle for Publisher: 06 An interview with Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir equality. There will be lots of love in the air when +354 540 3601 / [email protected] the most colourful street-party of the year takes The Biggest Little Pride in the World over the city centre. The month will then reach its Publisher: 08 How much has changed for Iceland’s LGBT community in the past 30 years? peak with one of the biggest events of the year, the Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson enormous Culture Night. With so many happenings [email protected] Another icelandic monster: nykur scheduled, I doubt the Grapevine reporters will Editor: 10 Fearsome waterhorse of yore: These guys are way evil spend much time in the office. I will enjoy reading Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] all about it in upcoming Grapevine issues. Assistant Editor: Only Amusing When Desperate As I write this, I got a little less than an hour Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] 12 FM Belfast on the band’s history, crazy fans and upcoming debut release left of my roughly two years working for the maga- Contributing Writers: zine. Filling in for the boss for the past month has Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Páll óskar is on been hard work so I plan to spend the next year Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] 14 Iceland's favourite flaming singing sensation shows us the ropes having my nails painted and my body covered in Ben H. Murray / [email protected] all sorts of weird and aromatic oils at a spa resort in Editorial Interns: lost in iceland? some very exotic country. Or I might even try to do Marcus Walsh / [email protected] 16 Google and others struggle to map Iceland something constructive. Who knows. Oddur Sturluson / [email protected] But seriously, not wanting to sound too corny, Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson / [email protected] REviews sending this last issue to print leaves me with Stevie Ward / [email protected] 24 Andrúm, Merzedes Club and Trentemöller mixed feelings. Excited about my next challenges, James Crugnale / [email protected] I’ll miss this place and my awesome coworkers that Art Director: REviews have made the office more of a home than a place Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] 25 Peter And Wolf, Boys in A Band and Steed Lord of work. I doubt any place in the world has such a Photographer: great bunch of people crammed together in a tiny Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson (GAS) Marriage Of Mystery house. [email protected] 26 A new Icelandic film about weddings has more substance than most This issue you are now reading is also Grape- Marketing Director: vine’s 80th and I look forward to reading 80 more. Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Fairground in the Family I hope you will enjoy it as much as we do. With so Sales Director: 29 Taylor made for your fun many things to celebrate I wont keep this any lon- Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] ger. The past two years have been great fun to say Distribution: Rock ‘N’ Responsibilities the least. Thanks guys! Þórir Gunnar Jónsson / [email protected] 30 Some of Kimi Records’ Roster Travelled the Country in Style Proofreader: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Jim Rice Press releases: Features THE COvER [email protected] Submissions inquiries: NEver Underestimate the Power Of Play [email protected] 20 Grapevine spends a day at CCP’s Reykjavík headquarters Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: I s s u e N o 1 1 – 2 0 0 8 FREE [email protected] Destinations The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a The Art Of HAving Fun year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through 28 A photographer’s quest to depict Seyðisfjörður in 12 hours April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in They’re Here! White-water Fun! They’re Queer! part without the written permission of the publishers. T h a n k G o d ! 32 Grapevine goes rafting Get ready: Iceland’s annual Gay Pride is coming Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices EVE Online’s Virtual World Explored Lesbian Weddings Crashed Beer Day Remembered Horse Riding at Snorrastaðir Kimi’s Summer Fun Tour Uncovered and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Gigs Deconstructed Restaurants Reviewed YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL Riding a horse called Fantasy AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, 33 COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key loca- mountains, fjords and gods tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions 50 Hiking in Hornstrandir PHOTOGRAPHY and tourist information centres. GAS Sky'S the limit MODEL & STYLIST You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. 52 Whitewater kayaking in Iceland Steini (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are MAKE-UP pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the Ísak Freyr Helgason at Emm with writers’ own, not the advertisers’). products from Makeup A THANKS TO Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies. Aftur COMIC STRIP "Merry ChristMas, King Kong" By LÓa hJÁLMtÝsDÓTTIR ÁSDÍS DÖGG ÓMARSDÓTTIR A PROFESSIONAL GUIDE AND GEOLOGIST WITH A TASTE FOR CROSS COUNTRY SKIING, MOUNTAIN BIKING AND LONG- BOARD RIDES IN 101 REYKJAVÍK. TECNOSTRETCH TOP: JÓNÍNA CM-524 FLEECE PANTS: ÁSDÍS CM-815 WWW.CINTAMANI.IS DRESS CODE ICELAND CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUN 3, 210 GARÐABÆ, S. 533 3800 - CINTAMANI CENTER LAUGAVEGI 11, 101 REYKJAVIK, S. 562 7000 4 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 11—2008 LETTERS Sour Grapes say your pieCe, voiCe your opinion, senD your Letters to [email protected] or text +354 893 9589 I recently completed my second trip to medical knowledge contrary to the laws makes about as much sense as... I’m at Iceland, during which I was amused of humanity.. Similarly, I will not give to a lack for words here. It just makes no by Nethaniel Flagg’s self hating article a woman an abortive remedy. I will...do sense at all. about Americans. Things have changed no harm.” in Iceland from 4 years ago, and not for Yeah, I don’t think the “good” 7. Cancer and steroids. Interesting! the better. Icelanders used to be hap- americans in the democratic party will py to see any tourist - even us terrible be talking too much about that part. Nor Thanks for reading, Americans (sic), as tourism was a great will Mr. Flagg. boost to an economy that had stagnated Lastly, I’d like to urge all Iceland- Sveinn Birkir Björnsson for generations. I still will recommend ers, a people I still have much affection Iceland to anyone who has never been for, to accept that you have a big and there, but warn them of the backlash growing hard drug problem in Reyk- against tourists also. Roving gangs of javik. Perhaps that Iceland airwaves Dear TRG... very drunk ENGLISH tourists should festival wasn’t such a great idea after not ruin the party for everyone, and all. And perhaps you could even con- Happened to pick up your issue #10 that goes for just about every european front the scourge of Iceland - the high- right at the door of the plane as I was country these days.. est breast cancer rate in the world - by leaving Amsterdam for Reykjavik... I As for Mr. Flagg’s article, well, I realizing that steroids are just as harmful work on cruise ships and am spending know he is young and impressionable and cancer causing to women as they two nights here in town between jobs. and all that - but really now. His refer- are to men, even if it’s called “birth con- Totally loved your entire paper as it gave ence to an “unarmed” nation is really trol.” me a much better sense of what your funny, considering that US air force base great country is all about, including lots at Keflavik that has defended the island Sean Cannan of real-world, hands-on tips for tourists for decades. Icelanders won’t be kick- Charlottesville, VA like me who don't have time to figure ing us out any time soon; they are not USA out the local scene on our own! I felt like that stupid, and it is a great bargain for a local and had a great time checking them.