13.65% Increase in usage of the city public bus system. 29 The number 360,000,000,000 of fatalities The amount of real estate transactions (ISK). in accidents. 4,000,000 Average number of pizza boxes 9786 used by Icelanders every year. If The number of registered 18Issues of The Reyk- stacked, these boxes would reach students at the University of javík Grapevine. a height of apx. 240 km. . 11% Increase in the market price 5.5Average heat (in °C) in Reyk- index for apart- javík. Only .5 degrees colder ment housing in than the hottest year yet. Reykjavík. 22,603 830,000 New cars reg- istered. 517 Number of text messages sent on the Síminn network alone on New Year’s less than the 1.8%Population increase in Iceland. Eve. A 30% increase from last year. year before. 312,872 5.9% The population of Iceland. Twelve month infla- tion in Iceland. 1809 The number of ships in Iceland.

2,200,000 The number of 4000 The number of pas- Ice-cream sellers The number of new internet sengers travelling shut down in Reyk- domains registered, bringing through Leifur javík for not pass- the total of Icelandic domains Eiríksson Interna- ing health- to 20.000. tional Airport. 2 inspections. The Grapevine Selects the Album of the Year • Interview With Director Ragnar Bragason The Last Day of Earth • Jesus Christ Enters the Stage • The Lonesome Traveller Gets Wet

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 01 // Jan 11 - Feb 07 2008 02 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Year 6 | January 11 – Febuary 07

The Reykjavík Grapevine Opinion Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is Freedom in Pyrotechnics 08 [email protected] An opinion by Alexandra Hertell www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Published by Fröken ehf. Four random conclusions for 2007 08 An opinion by Haukur Magnússon Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Articles Publisher: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] No Sleep, No Pay 06 Interview with filmmaker Ragnar Bragason The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Life in Numbers 09 Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Reviewing a year in the life of Páll Hilmarsson in numbers [email protected] Editor: Recent Books About Iceland 21 Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Reading suggestions for the Icelandophile Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Staff Writer: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Features Contributing Writer: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Scenes from Suburbia 12 Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Photojournal from Seltjarnarnes Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Looking Back 14 Photographer: The Year’s Most Interesting Headlines Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson [email protected] Top 10 Albums of 2007 15 Marketing Director: The Grapevine awards its respected album of the year title Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Sales Director: Top of the Charts 16 Aðalsteinn Jörundsson Interview with Markús Bjarnason & Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson [email protected] Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Distribution: Music & Nightlife Þórir Gunnar Jónsson / [email protected] Proofreader: Psychedelic Normalcy 18 Jane Victoria Appleton Benny Crespo’s Gang in Concert Press releases: Jesus Christ Rockstar 18 [email protected] Jesus Christ Superstar steps on stage Submissions inquiries: [email protected] CD Reviews 19 Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: Outside Reykjavík [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times A Different Kind of Country Music 22 a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November Yet another American music journalist drives the Ring Road through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be Across the Country in 40 Days 28 reproduced in whole or in part without the Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg V written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. The info. Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, , Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Listings B2 Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist Food Reviews B10 information centres.

Shopping B12 You may not like it, but at least it's not spon- sored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine 30 Years of Contemporary Art B14 are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). Earth Waves Goodbye to GusGus B15 Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies.

From the Editor’s Chair 13 . 6 5 % Increase in usage of the city public bus system. 29 The number 360,000,000,000 of fatalities Happy New Year kids. And welcome to the first is- elections has bothered me though. It is as if the want our democracy to be in. We should rather The amount of real estate transactions (ISK). in accidents. 4 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 sue of 2008. What an exciting year we have ahead majority of the public would rather skip the whole embrace the idea of partaking in the democratic Average number of pizza boxes 9786 used by Icelanders every year. If The number of registered 18Issues of The Reyk- stacked, these boxes would reach students at the University of of us. First, later this month, we have the - process, since our current president would likely process. javík Grapevine. a height of apx. 240 km. Iceland. an Finals in team handball. That should turn this win anyway, than have anyone run against him, This issue of the Grapevine celebrates the 1 1 % Increase in the market price 5Average heat . (in 5°C) in Reyk- index for apart- country upside down. Later this year, we will be citing the financial costs of staging the elections. year that has passed. We look at interesting events javík. Only .5 degrees colder ment housing in than the hottest year yet. Reykjavík. treated to both the European Finals in football, as This is the message in its simplified form: if the from 2007, select the album of the year, and round 22,603 830,000 New cars reg- istered. 517 Number of text messages sent on the Síminn network alone on New Year’s less than the well as the Olympic Games in Beijing. I am hon- outcome of the election were likely to be one way, up some numbers that put the year in perspective. 1Population . 8 increase% in Iceland. Eve. A 30% increase from last year. year before. estly torn over when would be the ideal time to we would rather forgo our democratic process I hope you all had a good year. I did. 3 1 2 , 8 7 2 5 . 9 % The population of Iceland. Twelve month infla- tion in Iceland. 1809 take a summer vacation. It is entirely possible that and save some money doing so. The number of ships in Iceland. 2,200,000 The number of 4000 The number of pas- Ice-cream sellers The number of new internet sengers travelling shut down in Reyk- domains registered, bringing through Leifur javík for not pass- the Grapevine will stop publication during this Democracy demands financial costs. This ing health- the total of Icelandic domains Eiríksson Interna- to 20.000. tional Airport. 2 inspections. The Grapevine Selects the Album of the Year • Interview With Director Ragnar Bragason time. And, with any luck, we might have presiden- is inevitable. It is the constitutional right of every The Last Day of Earth • Jesus Christ Enters the Stage • The Lonesome Traveller Gets Wet

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 01 // Jan 11 - Feb 07 2008 tial elections this year as well, although it seems man to run for office in this country, as long as unlikely, since our current president will probably he meets certain requirements of age and citizen- be appointed by default, since he is the only can- ship, and we should under no conditions try to Cover illustration: didate to have declared interest in the job. curfew that right. This sort of talk invites the dan- Gunni Þorvalds The public discussion over the presidential ger of slippery slope, and that is a slope we don’t Facts gathered by: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir 2527 CIN grapevine 5X39 Tinna winter retreat.ai 12/4/07 11:56:56 AM 04 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Letters Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].

Dear Iceland, behind. I have returned again, here now in December 2007. I As an American, I am as appalled to read of the treatment of came to see my friends and to experience the Holidays in Ice- Erla Ósk Arnardóttir as you are. Her minor offense does not jus- land. I am still pursing a permit, but still not having any luck. tify the extreme and inhumane way in which she was treated. I There is however a change that I have been witness to and can’t apologize on behalf of all Americans, or of the American I would like to share this. As I am trying to become an im- government, but only for myself. I’m sorry. migrant, I have been following the politics surrounding this issue since my first visit in 2006. I am aware of the problems But you should know that many Americans like me do recog- that have been arising and the concerns this community has nize the dangerous and absurd degrees to which our govern- regarding the issue. I am also aware of the events both recent ment has fallen, even as we do not understand its evolution, and past that have caused a not so positive view of the United and we are frankly ashamed of it. It has escaped our grasp and States. What concerns me is that there has been a good deal of become a monster we ourselves barely even recognize, and resentment vented towards me simply beause of where I was which we do not know how to contain. Our best hope is that born and because I am trying to be an immigrant. There is no the 2008 election will result in a more democratically minded need for me to go into details, but I will say it has been a bit administration, but to be quite honest with you, I fear we have uncomfortable at times. I understand why these people feel as gone a tipping point and that our future is dire. America will they do, but I would like to point something out to them. When probably no longer we what it once was. We will need your you meet someone who is not native to this land, you must help as much as you need ours. remember that they may love this country as much as you do.

To Ms. Arnardóttir: my apologies. Bestu Kveðjur,

Sincerely, Robert Zartarian David Appell

Dear Robert, Dear David, Sadly, your story is not the only such example I’ve heard. Our For some readers of the Grapevine, this might require some opinion here at the Grapevine is that there is no justification for explanation. Erla Ósk Arnardóttir travelled to to do treating people badly based on their nationality, no more than some shopping for the holidays. At JFK she was met with some you can justify treating people badly based on religion, race, or very unfriendly Homeland Security officials for overstaying her musical taste. Immigration laws in Iceland have been modified visa by three weeks in 1995. She was interrogated for hours, to the point where they are one of the harshest policies in Eu- jailed in New Jersey and shipped back Iceland in chains. rope on the subject of immigration. Recently, we have witnessed I think I am at liberty to accept you apology on behalf a surge in anti-immigration attitudes among citizens and politi- of Erla Ósk Arnardóttir. I think everyone realises that the treat- cians, and a political party that campaigned on a platform of ment on her is not a testimony on the American people, but a anti-immigration, and tougher regulations against foreigners. testimony of a government that has long since overstepped the There seems to be little understanding for how immigrants boundaries of common sense. have enriched our society. The Grapevine greatly deplores this development. It is time for the people of this country to stop Editor viewing immigrants as a problem and start looking for ways to help people who choose to live here with their transition to Iceland. Otherwise, we will have a problem, not a ‘immigrant- Dear Editor problem’ but an ‘Icelanders-problem.’

I first came to Iceland in June 2006. I was on my way to Europe Editor for the Summer and was making a 5 day layover in Iceland be- fore travelling on. After my first couple of days I knew I needed more time to see the country. 5 days became 2 weeks, which became a month, and before I knew it I stayed the full 90 days I am allowed as a visitor. I stayed because I fell in Love with this country, with its people and its culture. I could write pages about what made me feel this way, but lets just say I felt as though I had finally found my home. I decided I wanted to apply for a work and residence permit to allow me the chance to share in this community. To offer what I can and contribute in a positive way. I began studying the langauge, and my friends here began teaching me about the customs. However, after 10 months of trying I was left with NO for an answer. The explanation I was given was “he is not European, and we will not issue him a permit”. (I am a citizen of the ) This did not deter me from following my passion of moving to Iceland. So, in April 2007 I came back for what was suppose to be a week. Again, 1 became 2, and all of a sudden I was here for the full 90 days allowed. I searched and tried dilligently to find a way to receive a permit, but with no luck. Every attempt I made resulted in a dead end. Thus, when my 3 month stay had expired I left with a heavy heart. Leaving my friends and the only place I have ever felt truly at home Special offer

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Director Ragnar Bragason enjoyed considerable success in 2007. Unfortunately, success leaves little room for sleep. Photo by GAS

No Sleep, No Pay

Celebrated Icelandic filmmaker Ragnar Bragason project the idea was that the dramatic aspects of release a Næturvaktin DVD with foreign lan- “The truth is that we are has certainly kept busy. His 2007 saw the release the show would surpass the comedic ones. A real- guage subtitles. You seem the obvious person of Foreldrar (“Parents”), the sequel to 2006’s Börn istic show, focused on people and human tragedy to ask… in no way ready to take (“Children”) to great public and critical acclaim; in all its forms. It isn’t sitcom humour, we focus on I thought it was really sad that the original DVD the début of a hugely popular TV series, Næturvak- uncomfortable scenarios and the humour springs release of the series wasn’t subtitled. It was awful in immigrants, as we are tin (“Night Watch”); as well as his overseeing the from character flaws rather than jokes or punch really, because, you know, somewhere I heard annual “Áramótaskaup” comedy revue romp (more lines. that between 10 and 15.000 non-fluent Icelandic doing absolutely nothing on that later). The humour represented in your works seems speakers were living in the country. These are to revolve a lot around drama and tragedy. people that want to live here and presumably for them. They come over It doesn’t sound like you’ve been sleeping a Were there times when you envisioned Börn wish to learn the language and participate in our lot… and Foreldrar as comedies, rather than the culture. And a huge part of that is being able to here and basically carry You’re always juggling ten projects at a time in tragedies they wound up being? observe and understand whatever’s popular on this business, as it’s hard to determine which will Yes, there’s an incredibly thin line between dra- TV at a given time, seeing Icelandic movies, etc. our society – if they’d just come to fruition when you’re dependant on out- ma and comedy, and it’s evident that a lot of the Subtitled materials help them learn the language, side factors, like money. The last two years have best comedies of all time could have easily been and get a grip on the culture. It is a key for tun- up and leave, all of them, been kind of insane for me because a lot of the turned into dramas, with a few simple nuances. I ing in on the zeitgeist, understanding the culture projects I’d been working on became possible at don’t think anything can be really funny unless it and getting a grip on the humour. All art reflects then Iceland would col- the same time. has drama at its core. All the best comedy stuff is a certain atmosphere within the community and Like with Börn and Foreldrar, we started based on tragedies, and the best comics employ it culture from whence it springs, and it is important lapse completely.” work on those in 2005, so a long time passed in mercilessly. Peter Sellers, among others; his roles that it should be readily available to anyone who’s between when we shot them and when they pre- usually depict human tragedy. Inspector Closeau interested. miered. We gave ourselves plenty of time for post- is a really tragic character, for instance, rather You seem to have an active interest in im- production, editing and the like. Since the project dim-witted, unfortunate – a tragic individual. And migrant issues, as was evident in your han- was extremely low budget, eliminating the need I find treading that fine line satisfying and fun – it dling of the 2007 Áramótaskaup show [the for investors who needed returns on their money, is the same path that life treads. Áramótaskaup is a cultural institution in we could take the time we wanted to make those Did you have a hard time financing your first Iceland that runs on National TV every New movies. It’s a little backward – the smaller the bud- project? Year’s eve before the fireworks display. It is get for a film, the more time and freedom you have No. Actually it was incredibly easy. At the time I watched by something like 95% of the popu- to work on it. There’s no outside pressure. made Fíaskó, a lot of money was going around lation and aims to make light of some of the I went without salary, pretty much, for the in Europe and all these funds were very open for preceding year’s issues]. two years it took to complete the films. We decid- Iceland and Icelanders. Fíaskó was financed in an Yeah, I think that Icelanders have a lot of pent up ed to produce them using a different system than incredibly short amount of time, and actually is racism and we... somehow it’s not acceptable to what’s usually done, so the actors and I founded the most expensive project I’ve worked on. talk about anything that concerns immigrants or a company, a co-op, really. We decided to make I think Icelandic film directors have it pretty immigration. If a discourse starts, it’s somehow these movies communally, and not in the egoma- easy compared to many of their colleagues over- killed off immediately. The truth is that we are in niac-dictator style that film-makers often employ, seas. We live in a community where doing stuff no way ready to take in immigrants, as we are do- where the director is all-powerful. – not just films, but all creative projects – is incred- ing absolutely nothing for them. They come over We wanted to make films that mattered too, ibly easy. For instance, I think you won’t find as here and basically carry our society – if they’d just and were the product of more people than just a many bands operating anywhere in the world; up and leave, all of them, then Iceland would col- director or screenwriter. So the actors also served releasing a record and gaining exposure, getting lapse completely. And we don’t appreciate that at as screenwriters and producers, and everybody people to help, is certainly simpler than in neigh- all. Instead, we let greedy bastards get away with had a say about everything. bouring countries. This is a luxury derived from renting groups of immigrants ridiculously small There are of course certain problems with the miniscule size of our society and there is a apartments at sky-high prices, never pausing a going without pay for so long. That’s maybe the certain unity at work, too. It’s easy to get people moment to think of their rights. We need to accept reason why I worked so much after we finished to participate in whatever project and you are not and celebrate the fact that we are living in a mul- shooting – in two and a half years I made two full- bound by endless rules and regulations. While ticultural society, and try to better our community length movies, 20 episodes of Stelpurnar [sketch making a film abroad, you’ll have to acquire vari- accordingly. comedy show ‘The Girls’] and 12 episodes of Næ- ous permits and the like if you want to shoot a And the final scene of Áramótaskaupið was turvaktin [the TV sensation that Icelanders as a scene outdoors. Over here, you can just take your a kind of jab at the country, playing a music video whole fell in love with last fall]. That’s a lot of di- video camera for a walk, and everybody you en- of Ísland er land þitt [“Iceland is your country”], recting in two years, and I used pretty much the counter will be ready and willing to help. where every sentence starts with “Iceland is…”, same crew through all of those projects. This isn’t the case in most places I know of, as performed by a group of immigrants in a fish You’ve been a filmmaker for nearly a decade so I think Icelandic directors that complain about processing plant, where most people would like to now, and there seems to be a certain aesthet- the lack of opportunity… I laugh at those com- keep them doing the jobs we aren’t interested in. ic thread running through your work… plains. If they don’t go through with their ideas, Honestly, nothing angers me more than any kind My first flick, Fíaskó, was released in 2000. So it’s their own fault; it’s just so much laziness. With of nationalism or racism. People like to hold on to that’s a little under eight years I’ve been making the situation as it is over here for filmmaking, or their status quo, keeping a balance is a big part movies for a living. When I think about it, Fíaskó any kind of art, there’s nothing stopping you but of the human instinct, but it’s simply not possible, isn’t that far removed from Næturvaktin… both yourself, and if you don’t get that 100 million you and it’s also very dangerous. projects are realist and, at the core, human drama think you need to make your movie you just need straight out of Icelandic reality, but with a sort of to rethink your strategy and go a different way. Text by Haukur Magnússon tragicomic undertone. I’ve always considered Næ- The Grapevine has been getting enquiries as turvaktin as drama, when we started work on the to whether there are any plans underway to Ad Grapevine 245x195 (EE) 20/09/07 17:44 Page 1

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Freedom in Pyrotechnics

I had never seen anything like it in my life. There miss out on all the fun that Icelanders are entitled ers drank Bjórliki, a non-alcoholic beer named was so much smoke everywhere it was hard to to. To make matters worse, with sparklers prohib- from the Icelandic word bjór meaning beer and breathe and my eyes were watery. My hair was ited, an odd tradition has developed since some liki meaning imitation, laced with large shots of a little burnt from ash that had fallen on it and intellectually challenged individuals decided that whiskey or vodka. If the government decides to lights were bursting and flashing everywhere I firing bullets into the sky would be a great replace- behave like an overzealous parent and tell its citi- looked. It may sound like I was in the middle of ment for firecrackers, ignoring Newton’s law of not to behave in a certain way that endangers some chaotic disorder and I was. New Year’s Eve gravity that what goes up must eventually come no one, the independent and proud child will do in Reykjavík was upon me and the pyrotechnics down. This year, the government had to spend exactly what they are told not to do, or worse. As a war had started. I walked like a drunk, zigzagging money running campaigns titled: “Not one more matter of principle people should be responsible and swerving in attempts to avoid children aiming bullet into the air!” in order to curtail this crazy for themselves and behave the way they wish as firecrackers straight at me, straight at everybody. twenty-first-century ritual. long as it does not interfere with the safety of oth- I am used to fireworks being at the hands of the The morning after my first Icelandic New ers. city council and not at the will of the population. Year’s Eve, I inspect my coat for burns and won- The extravagant 360-degree fireworks dis- Seeing all those tykes and champagne-wielding der how the hell nobody gets injured in all this play I experienced here and the whimsical smiles adults firing off made me nervous, although I have mayhem. Then I think of last New Year’s Eve and of those taking part in the grand spectacle in- to say it was nice to see that everybody got to par- I am reminded that I prefer a four-year-old with a spired me. Now that I know what to expect, I will ticipate in lighting up the midnight sky and that it firecracker to bullets flying across the sky. I come be prepared for next year with my own arsenal of wasn’t just an officially organised affair. to the conclusion that people just want to feel in fireworks so that I can contribute to the carnival The type of New Year’s celebration I am control of their lives and the actions they take. atmosphere instead of just being a spectator. So used to has quite a pathetic showing of fireworks People on my island want to experience the start if you happen to find yourself annoyed at the fire- that is aimed at tourists rather than locals. I come of the New Year literally and figuratively in their works damage suffered by your newly acquired from a small, immensely beautiful island in the own hands. When simple freedoms such as this vintage dress, simply laugh about it and remem- Caribbean: Puerto Rico. Our tradition there is to are constrained, people revolt and find other ways ber that at least you have the freedom to enjoy spend the hours up until midnight with the fam- to express themselves. 2008 behaving as wildly or primly as you please. ily, so people tend to be inside when the clock There was a comparable situation in Reykja- Alexandra Hertell is professional musician from strikes twelve. The explosives display (I can’t even vik before 1999 when bars were required to close Puerto Rico. She now resides in Reykjavík. remember the last time I saw it) is conducted from at three in the morning. Partygoers were forced to Old San Juan: a relic of the past with faded blue leave the bars amidst their merriment. However, cobblestones and Spanish architecture adorned the bartender’s last call did not stop people from with bold colours. However, very few Puerto Ri- spilling onto the streets where rowdy crowds of cans will be walking around the old city to enjoy thousands would gather to continue their party- the few sparks visible in the sky. It is mainly a dis- ing. This became too bothersome a burden for play to satisfy the sun burnt, Hawaiian-shirt-wear- the police to handle and the drinking laws were ing tourists. relaxed allowing for later closing times. Similarly, Sadly for the people back home, it is illegal before 1989 the beer prohibition did not prevent for individuals to buy or use fireworks, so people people from getting intoxicated. Instead Iceland-

Four Random Conclusions for 2007

One) Re-designing 101 Reykjavík is dumb: opinions that they wished to share with their fellow to call for a ban on drinking in bars and cafés. Tearing down old houses on Laugarvegur, some of citizens actually had to bother expressing them on The smell of alcohol and stale beer is generally which have great historical significance, others that paper, purchasing stamps and sending them off to unpleasant. Drunk people really annoy me when I have gained status as bona fide cultural institutions a newspaper, where they would be approved of (or am trying to have sober fun at a bar; they are loud, in latter years, to make way for a downtown shop- not), proofread and typeset. It is likely that anyone rude and rowdy. Many of them harbour the absurd ping mall is dumb. And shortsighted. who bothers going through with this whole proce- pastime of beating random strangers to a pulp. And, Not only is it dumb for the very obvious rea- dure will have also bothered to actually form their sometimes, people die from those beatings. son that some of the places earmarked for destruc- opinion in a thoughtful manner, and formulating it In conclusion, I would like to be able to go tion by city planners have become veritable tourist to an understandable degree, too. out to the bar without being exposed to drunken attractions and landmarks in their own right, con- Of course, all opinions are valid as such. But people. We could make an example out of the tributing greatly to the “vibrant downtown atmo- not all statements are opinions, and that is impor- forthcoming downtown shopping mall’s bar. sphere and music life” that many Grapevine read- tant to remember. The advent of one-click publish- ers cite as their main reason for visiting Iceland in ing has, for the most part, killed off any inkling of Four) At the core, all cities are essentially larg- the first place. belief in democracy and public discourse I once er versions of my hometown, Ísafjörður: They are tearing down Grand Rokk. And held. 2007 saw me visit Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Brussels, Sirkús. Not that I am the biggest fan of either of There are countless examples of this from Cologne, Paris, New York, , , Copenha- those establishments (actually, I’ve probably spent the Icelandic blogosphere of 2007. The case of gen, , Cannes and Austin, Texas, among more time unsuccessfully trying to gain entry to the disappearing re-appearing dog, Lúkas, for one. others. They are all the same, really (although some Sirkús than actually inside of it, and Grand Rokk’s Every discussion on feminism made on-line in of them have awfully modernised, ghost-town like drunken patrons frighten me). But still. Sirkús often the Icelandic language. Also every discussion on city centres while others feature thriving, culturally employed bouncers for the sole reason of keeping religion. And music. And pretty much anything significant, historical ones). Oh, some of them will the frightened-by-the-price-of-alcohol-but-still-keen- weightier than Britney Spears exiting a car with her have more video stores than others, and of course to-observe-and-thus-take-up-space tourists out. gaping vagina on display (the internet is an excel- climates will differ, but at the core, they are all di- More often than not, those bouncers were veteran lent place for that). vided into the same neighbourhoods, and their in- frightened-by-the-price-of-beer tourists that had So, if anyone from the internet reads this, habitants foster the same hopes, dreams and fears. Haukur Magnússon is a contributing writer for the settled and pushed through the glass ceiling. please pay attention: YOUR THOUGHTS AS THEY Not to say that Western culture is growing increas- Reykjavík Grapevine. He lives with eight cats. It is also dumb because we already have at APPEAR IN YOUR MIND AT A GIVEN MOMENT ingly homogenous (which I am sure it is), rather least two fully functioning enormo-malls in the AREN’T NECCESSARILY OPINIONS; MOST LIKELY, that people all over are generally good, helpful and greater Reykjavík area, that are well befitted for THEY ARE REACTIONS. PLEASE TAKE THE TIME hopeful. serving all average mall goers shopping needs. TO ARRANGE THOSE REACTIONS IN ORDER, AND Especially those without blogs. And it is dumb because 101 Reykjavík’s at- TO VERIFY THEM AGAINST A LIST OF FACTS THAT And that was a nice discovery. traction now lies mainly in its coffeehouses, bars, ARE EVIDENTLY TRUE (cogito ergo sum). Please. galleries and concert venues – its nightlife. Laugav- egur abandoned its post as Reykjavík’s shopping Three) Banning smoking in bars was a really street sometime in the mid-eighties, when they shitty idea: opened Kringlan. And that is fine. I’ve generally clung to the opinion that anyone And it is dumb because one of the main who chooses to spend their spare time drinking arguments for tearing down those historical land- in bars isn’t really concerned about their personal marks is how ugly they’ve grown in the past decade. welfare. Am I just being silly, or wouldn’t it be a good idea, Furthermore, not being libertarian or any- say, if I were a real estate developer, to let a build- thing, I’ve still managed to believe that if there was ing I owned grot down and slum-ify if I desperately a market for non-smoking bars and cafés, someone wanted to level it so I could build a high-price would see fit to open these, and those drinkers mega-mall on the lot? that were sick of having to take showers and burn And it is dumb because Laugavegur seems to be their clothes once they got home from a night out working fine as is. at a smoky bar would see fit to attend those. And they would flourish and prosper, just like all those Two) Don’t listen to anything those evil fucks pre-smoking ban polls showed. How does this not on the Internet try and tell you: make sense? Back in the utopian times of 2003, people who had Since it apparently doesn’t, I would now like Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 09

Life in Numbers

I have never been particularly interested in math- now stands at 6,373,335 ISK. That means that my sine for 4 months it was 76.2 kg (measured on a After all, consumption ematics. However, I am extremely interested in monthly payments have increased by 1,586 ISK highly dodgy set of scales in a Bangkok back al- numbers and statistics. So much so that at times and the loan (despite my diligent, on time, pay- ley). By the end of the year my likeable self had drives this society and I it borders on obsession. I like to keep track of all ments) has inflated by 300,834 ISK. Obviously, this inflated to 79.5 kg. It seems I inflate in relation to numbers, major and minor. Despite this I haven’t is one game where I cannot win. This loan will my debts. This is despite my personal definition take my role in it very se- really been good at feeding the obsession. But continue to expand, making money for some peo- of myself as a runner. You see, back in 2003 I thanks to the digital age making things a bit easier ple, somewhere. I can understand the laws of in- trained for and completed a half marathon. That’s riously. One part of this and my new year’s resolution of 2007 to keep a flation and interest, but I cannot see the justice in 21.1 km. It took me 2 hours and 9 minutes of wad- detailed account of my life in numbers, I can now this monetary system. But then again, who can? dling. Since then I regularly deceive people who consumption is drinking present to you my life in 2007 in digits. Fascinating To pay for this, and all the other stuff that ask me about my work-out habits (which, I must stuff I promise you. comes with being a highly successful person, I admit, happens much too often, probably due to my coffee at Hressingar- I’m on the internet almost 24/7. I surf relent- work for the Nursing Faculty of the University of my inflating physique) by telling them that I’m an lessly. Almost all my digital consumption comes Iceland in a 50% position. For that I have been avid runner – on par with the best Kenyans. In the skálinn, where a cup of from the internet: music, movies and what not. My paid (over 8 months) a massive 738,683 ISK. It is year 2007 I went running 7 times for a total dis- internet service provider measures my download all gone. Another score for the market economy. tance of 23.23 km. This is abysmal and must be coffee Americano costs from servers outside Iceland. Last year that to- After all, consumption drives this society and I rectified this year if I’m not going to resemble the talled 153.29 gigabytes during an 8-month period. take my role in it very seriously. One part of this Michelin Man at the end of this year. On the bright 320 ISK. That’s a whopping 19 GB average per month. Most consumption is drinking my coffee at Hressingar- side, I managed to climb 1 mountain, that’s 1 more of the bigger stuff (movies for example) comes skálinn, where a cup of coffee Americano costs than in the year 2006. It was a climb to 649 metres, from Icelandic servers so I think it’s safe to assume 320 ISK. My (slightly incomplete) fiscal measure- the total walking distance 7.04 km, which took 2 we can triple that amount. That’s 57 GB a month or ments show that I’ve paid for this commodity of hot hours. I see a Mt. Everest ascent on the horizon. 57,000 megabytes. Like that guy said: Man, there is water and coffee grounds at least 92 times, again But let’s not dwell on personal defeats. The a lot of porn out there. To accommodate this enor- over an 8-month period, totalling around 30,000 victories are much more fun. During the year I mous amount of zeros and ones I added a 500 GB ISK. There were some times when somebody else managed to add to my tattoo collection 2 times, hard drive to the family server space. That didn’t picked up the tab so let’s round off the number of both works inked in Bangkok, . I do- cut it. This year I’ll need to add an additional tera- Americanos to 120. To keep my sanity I’ve decid- nated blood 1 time, in a run-down blood bank byte of storage. Somewhere, something needs to ed not to calculate the amount spent on beer and in Shianoukville, Cambodia, and managed to be cut down and simplified. cigarettes at the various establishments around survive my 4-month trip without ever putting on When I’m not scouring the internet, I’m talk- town. After all, if I am going to keep contributing a pair of socks. It’s the small numbers that give ing on my mobile phone. During my 8 months in to this market carousel, I must turn a blind eye to the most satisfaction it seems. This year will bring Iceland in the year 2007, I sent 1098 sms messages. at least some of my spending. Otherwise I might many more of these small victories, I predict. At I received 1308. That is a surplus of 210 messages. be tempted to cut down and that might spell bad least I’ve made it my mission to document the year I suspect that most of the surplus is on account of things for bar owners and staff alike. 2008 in numbers far more thoroughly. For instance my bank reminding me of the money I owe them. Perhaps you are wondering why my fiscal the running total of times I’ve shaved this year They seem really keen on sending me a message year is 8 months and not 12 like everyone else’s. stands at 1. Tonight I’ll add 1 more, trudging along at 5 pm each day containing the total of my debt. For the first 4 months of 2007 I was travelling to a happy and prosperous, numerical year. Even so, this is a part of my life where, at least it around Southeast-Asia, visiting 4 countries (6 if appears, I’m winning. you count Stansted airport in the UK and Dubai Text by Páll Hilmarsson When it comes to banking, however, I’m airport). During that time I travelled on 8 different

losing faster and faster each month. The debts planes for a total of 25,752 km. The CO2 emissions on my apartment total around 7 million ISK. They from my travels are, loosely calculated, around

are divided into two loans, one which was origi- 4466 kg of CO2. Maybe if I cut down on the coffee nally for 700,000 and another for 6.3 million. In spending I’ll be able to plant some trees this year January 2007 the monthly payment (number 5 to make up for this horrific number. Don’t bet on it of 480) for the bigger loan was 28,974 ISK. At that though. time it would have cost me 6,072,501 ISK to pay At the beginning of my journey my personal Páll Hilmarsson snaps a photo of Páll Hilmarsson up the loan. January 2008, the same monthly pay- weight, sans accessories, stood at 78.3 kg. At the Photo by Páll Hilmarsson ment was suddenly up to 30,560 ISK and the loan end of the trip, after living on the finest Asian cui- Wszystko, o czym powinieneś Что нужно знать водителю, чтобы Important information Nauðsynlegt að vita wiedzieć dla swojego bezpieczeństwa обеспечить свою безопасность regarding road safety varðandi öryggi þitt

Poważne kary za łamanie prawa drogowego Строгие наказания за нарушения правил движения Severe punishments for violation of traffic laws Harðar refsingar við umferðalagabrotum Na Islandii można stracić prawo jazdy bądź zostać ukaranym bardzo wysoką В Исландии за нарушение правил уличного движения можно лишиться In Iceland, people can expect to lose their driver’s licence and receive high fines for violation Á Íslandi getur fólk átt von á að missa ökuréttindi og fá mjög háar sektir vegna grzywna za łamanie prawa drogowego. W niektórych przypadkach dochodzi водительских прав и подвергнуться очень высокому штрафу. В некоторых случаях of traffic laws. In some cases, the car of the guilty party will be confiscated and the driver umferðalagabrota. Í sumum tilfellum er bíll þess sem brýtur af sér tekinn eignarnámi nawet do konfiskaty pojazdu a kierowca zostaje wyslany na specjalny kurs oraz автомобиль, ставший причиной аварии, конфискуют, а водителя посылают на will have to attend a special course or even take a driver’s test again. og ökumaður sendur á sérstakt námskeið, jafnvel þarf sá hinn sami að taka ökuprófið ma obowiązek ponownego zdania egzaminu na prawo jazdy. специальные курсы, и ему придется снова сдавать экзамен на права. að nýju. Speed limits Dopuszczalna prędkość Максимальная скорость Speeding is the most common cause of serious traffic accidents in Iceland. Outside Hámarkshraði Przekraczanie prędkości jest najczęściej popełnianym wykroczeniem na Islandii. Наиболее частой причиной серьезных аварий в Исландии является превышение populated areas on paved roads, the speed limit is 90 km/hr., but only 80 km/hr on gravel Of mikill hraði er algengasta orsök alvarlegra umferðarslysa á Íslandi. Utan þéttbýlis Poza obszarem zabudowanym na drodze asfaltowej maksymalna prędkość скорости. Вне города на асфальтовой дороге максимальная скорость составляет roads. Within populated areas, the speed limit is 50 km/hr., if not stated otherwise. These á bundnu slitlagi er hámarkshraði 90 km/klst. en 80 km/klst. á malarvegum. Í þéttbýli wynosi 90 km/godz. a 80 km/godz. na drodze szortowej. Na obszarze 90 км/час, а на грунтовой – 80 км/час. Внутри города максимальная скорость speed limits are under optimal conditions. er hámarkshraði 50 km/klst. nema annað sé tekið sérstaklega fram. Þetta miðast við zabudowanym maksymalna prędkość wynosi 50 km/godz. chyba, że jest inny равна 50 км/час, если нет специального указателя о другой разрешенной bestu hugsanlegu skilyrði. nakaz. Ten nakaz może być stosowany tylko podczas dobrej pogody. скорости. Эти цифры действительны при самых благоприятных дорожных Penalties for speeding условиях. The penalty for driving at 30 km over the speed limit is 45,000 kr. The penalty for speeding Refsing fyrir of hraðan akstur Mandaty za przekroczenie prędkośc can be up to 110,000 kr, or even more, plus suspension of the driver’s licence. Fyrir að keyra á 30 km yfir hámarkshraða er sektin 45 þúsund krónur. Sekt fyrir of Za przekroczenie prędkości o 30 km mandat wynosi 45 tysięcy koron. Mandat Штраф за превышение скорости hraðan akstur getur orðið 110 þúsund krónur og jafnvel meiri auk sviptingar może wynosić nawet 110 tysięcy koron a także inne kary z odebraniem prawa Штраф за превышение скорости на 30 километров составляет 45 тысяч крон. Drinking and driving is strictly forbidden ökuréttinda. jazdy włącznie. Штраф за превышение скорости может достигать 110 тысяч и более с In Iceland, it is forbidden to drive a car after having consumed alcohol or drugs. Those одновременным лишением водительских прав. driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a Það er bannað að aka eftir neyslu áfengis Zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. Á Íslandi er bannað að aka bíl eftir að hafa neytt áfengis eða fíkniefna. Þeir sem aka Na Islandii surowo zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu lub Запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя með meira en 0,5 prómill áfengismagns í blóði eru sektaðir og sviptir ökuréttindum. środków odurzających. Osoby mające powyżej 0,5 promila alkoholu we krwii В Исландии запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя или Penalties for drunk driving otrzymuja mandat oraz zawieszenie prawa jazdy. наркотических веществ. Если содержание алкоголя в крови водителя превышает The penalties for drunk driving are between 70,000 kr up to 140,000 kr. If driving under the Refsing fyrir ölvunarakstur 0,5 промилле, то он подвергается штрафу и лишается водительских прав. influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident Sektir fyrir ölvunarakstur eru frá 70 þúsund krónum til 140 þúsunda. Sá sem keyrir Kary pieniężne za jazdę pod wpływem alkoholu and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several ölvaður eða undir áhrifum fíkniefna fær ekki bætur ef hann lendir í slysi og þarf að Mandaty wynoszą od 70 do 140 tysięcy koron. Osoby prowadzące pod wpływem Штраф за езду в нетрезвом состоянии million krona. bera allan kostnað vegna tjónsins sjálfur. Getur sú upphæð numið milljónum króna. alkoholu bądź też środków odurzających tracą prawo do otrzymania За езду в нетрезвом состоянии взимается штраф в размере от 70 тысяч до 140 jakiegokolwiek odszkodowania i wszelkie koszty muszą pokryć same. тысяч крон. Водитель, попавший в аварию в состоянии опьянения или под Seat Belt Laws Skylt að nota bílbelti влиянием наркотических средств, не получает страховых выплат и обязан сам Drivers as well as all passengers in a car are required to wear a seat belt, both in the front Ökumenn eða farþegar í bíl eru skyldugir til að vera með bílbelti spennt, bæði í Obowiązek zapinania pasów оплачивать причиненный ущерб, который может составлять миллионы крон. and back seats. Children have to be in a safety seat or use other equipment according to framsæti og aftursæti. Börn eiga að vera í barnabílstólum eða nota búnað sem hæfir Zarówno kierowca jak i pasażer mają obowiązek zapinania pasów, również na their age and weight. stærð þeirra og þyngd. tylnych siedzeniach. Dzieci powinny być w specjalnych fotelikach, Обязательное использование ремня безопасности dopasowanych do swojej wagi i wzrostu. Водитель и пассажиры автомобиля на переднем и заднем сидениях обязаны Please keep the following in mind: Þessu til viðbótar skaltu muna: пристегнуть ремни безопасности. Для перевозки детей должно быть специальное Keep a safe distance between you and the car infront of you to enable you to stop Að hafa nægjanlegt bil í næsta bíl svo þú getir stöðvað hindrunarlaust. O tym dodatkowo powinniśmy pamiętać: автомобильное кресло или другое приспособление, соответствующее росту и your car without any problems. Að syfjaður og þreyttur ökumaður er mjög hættulegur. Zawsze zachowywać bezpieczny odstęp w razie nagłego hamowania. весу ребенка. A tired and worn-out driver is very dangerous. Að oft mælist áfengi í blóði ökumanns daginn eftir drykkju. Zmęczony i śpiący kierowca to niebezpieczny kierowca. В дополнение к вышесказанному следует помнить также, что: Alcohol might still be present in your blood on the day after drinking. Að það er skylt að hafa ökuljósin kveikt í akstri allan sólarhringinn. Poziom alkoholu we krwi utrzymuje się nawet następnego dnia. Необходимо сохранять достаточную дистанцию до движущегося впереди You are required to drive with lights on at all hours. Mikilvægt er að draga úr hraða þegar komið er af vegi með bundnu slitlagi Obowiązkowo należy mieć właczone światła mijania przez całą dobę. автомобиля, чтобы суметь вовремя остановить машину. It is important to slow down when a paved road turns into a gravel road. inn á malarveg. Należy zmiejszyć prędkość podczas zmiany z drogi asfaltowej na Невыспавшийся и усталый водитель очень опасен. In Iceland, there are a large number of single-lane bridges where you have to drive Á Íslandi er fjöldi einbreiðra brúa þar sem gæta þarf mikillar varúðar. szortową. Алкоголь часто сохраняется в крови водителя на следующий день после with special care. Það er bannað að tala í síma á meðan á akstri stendur nema notaður sé Na Islandii jest wiele wąskich mostów, na których należy zachować выпивки. sérstakur handfrjáls búnaður. szczególną ostrożność. It is forbidden to use your mobile phone while driving unless you use a special Фары автомобиля должны быть включены при езде в любое время суток. hands free mobile car kit. Zabrania się rozmowy przez telefon, chyba że posiadamy zestaw Важно замедлить скорость при съезде с асфальта на грунтовую дорогу. Á heimasíðunni www.drive.is er kynningarmyndin „How to drive in słuchawkowy. On www.drive.is, you can find an instructional video on “How to drive in Iceland“ en hún fjallar um akstur við íslenskar aðstæður. Myndin er В Исландии много одноколейных мостов, где нужно соблюдать особенную Iceland” which deals with driving in Icelandic conditions. The video is á ensku, þýsku, frönsku og spænsku. осторожность. Na stronie internetowej www.drive.is można zobaczyć film “Jak available in English, German, French and Spanish. jeździć po Islandii/How to drive in Iceland”, który pokazuje jak Запрещается разговаривать по телефону во время езды без специального powinno się jeździć w islandzkich warunkach pogodowych. Film устройства, освобождающего руки водителя. można obejżeć w języku angielskim, niemieckim, francuskim oraz hiszpańskim. На вебсайте www.drive.is есть видеоролик «Как ездить по Исландии», который посвящен особенностям езды по исландским дорогам. Текст видеоролика на английском, немецком, французском и испанском языках. rive in Iceland e.is and see how to d Visit www.driv Wszystko, o czym powinieneś Что нужно знать водителю, чтобы Important information Nauðsynlegt að vita wiedzieć dla swojego bezpieczeństwa обеспечить свою безопасность regarding road safety varðandi öryggi þitt

Poważne kary za łamanie prawa drogowego Строгие наказания за нарушения правил движения Severe punishments for violation of traffic laws Harðar refsingar við umferðalagabrotum Na Islandii można stracić prawo jazdy bądź zostać ukaranym bardzo wysoką В Исландии за нарушение правил уличного движения можно лишиться In Iceland, people can expect to lose their driver’s licence and receive high fines for violation Á Íslandi getur fólk átt von á að missa ökuréttindi og fá mjög háar sektir vegna grzywna za łamanie prawa drogowego. W niektórych przypadkach dochodzi водительских прав и подвергнуться очень высокому штрафу. В некоторых случаях of traffic laws. In some cases, the car of the guilty party will be confiscated and the driver umferðalagabrota. Í sumum tilfellum er bíll þess sem brýtur af sér tekinn eignarnámi nawet do konfiskaty pojazdu a kierowca zostaje wyslany na specjalny kurs oraz автомобиль, ставший причиной аварии, конфискуют, а водителя посылают на will have to attend a special course or even take a driver’s test again. og ökumaður sendur á sérstakt námskeið, jafnvel þarf sá hinn sami að taka ökuprófið ma obowiązek ponownego zdania egzaminu na prawo jazdy. специальные курсы, и ему придется снова сдавать экзамен на права. að nýju. Speed limits Dopuszczalna prędkość Максимальная скорость Speeding is the most common cause of serious traffic accidents in Iceland. Outside Hámarkshraði Przekraczanie prędkości jest najczęściej popełnianym wykroczeniem na Islandii. Наиболее частой причиной серьезных аварий в Исландии является превышение populated areas on paved roads, the speed limit is 90 km/hr., but only 80 km/hr on gravel Of mikill hraði er algengasta orsök alvarlegra umferðarslysa á Íslandi. Utan þéttbýlis Poza obszarem zabudowanym na drodze asfaltowej maksymalna prędkość скорости. Вне города на асфальтовой дороге максимальная скорость составляет roads. Within populated areas, the speed limit is 50 km/hr., if not stated otherwise. These á bundnu slitlagi er hámarkshraði 90 km/klst. en 80 km/klst. á malarvegum. Í þéttbýli wynosi 90 km/godz. a 80 km/godz. na drodze szortowej. Na obszarze 90 км/час, а на грунтовой – 80 км/час. Внутри города максимальная скорость speed limits are under optimal conditions. er hámarkshraði 50 km/klst. nema annað sé tekið sérstaklega fram. Þetta miðast við zabudowanym maksymalna prędkość wynosi 50 km/godz. chyba, że jest inny равна 50 км/час, если нет специального указателя о другой разрешенной bestu hugsanlegu skilyrði. nakaz. Ten nakaz może być stosowany tylko podczas dobrej pogody. скорости. Эти цифры действительны при самых благоприятных дорожных Penalties for speeding условиях. The penalty for driving at 30 km over the speed limit is 45,000 kr. The penalty for speeding Refsing fyrir of hraðan akstur Mandaty za przekroczenie prędkośc can be up to 110,000 kr, or even more, plus suspension of the driver’s licence. Fyrir að keyra á 30 km yfir hámarkshraða er sektin 45 þúsund krónur. Sekt fyrir of Za przekroczenie prędkości o 30 km mandat wynosi 45 tysięcy koron. Mandat Штраф за превышение скорости hraðan akstur getur orðið 110 þúsund krónur og jafnvel meiri auk sviptingar może wynosić nawet 110 tysięcy koron a także inne kary z odebraniem prawa Штраф за превышение скорости на 30 километров составляет 45 тысяч крон. Drinking and driving is strictly forbidden ökuréttinda. jazdy włącznie. Штраф за превышение скорости может достигать 110 тысяч и более с In Iceland, it is forbidden to drive a car after having consumed alcohol or drugs. Those одновременным лишением водительских прав. driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a Það er bannað að aka eftir neyslu áfengis Zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. Á Íslandi er bannað að aka bíl eftir að hafa neytt áfengis eða fíkniefna. Þeir sem aka Na Islandii surowo zabrania się prowadzenia pojazdu pod wpływem alkoholu lub Запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя með meira en 0,5 prómill áfengismagns í blóði eru sektaðir og sviptir ökuréttindum. środków odurzających. Osoby mające powyżej 0,5 promila alkoholu we krwii В Исландии запрещается вести машину после употребления алкоголя или Penalties for drunk driving otrzymuja mandat oraz zawieszenie prawa jazdy. наркотических веществ. Если содержание алкоголя в крови водителя превышает The penalties for drunk driving are between 70,000 kr up to 140,000 kr. If driving under the Refsing fyrir ölvunarakstur 0,5 промилле, то он подвергается штрафу и лишается водительских прав. influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident Sektir fyrir ölvunarakstur eru frá 70 þúsund krónum til 140 þúsunda. Sá sem keyrir Kary pieniężne za jazdę pod wpływem alkoholu and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several ölvaður eða undir áhrifum fíkniefna fær ekki bætur ef hann lendir í slysi og þarf að Mandaty wynoszą od 70 do 140 tysięcy koron. Osoby prowadzące pod wpływem Штраф за езду в нетрезвом состоянии million krona. bera allan kostnað vegna tjónsins sjálfur. Getur sú upphæð numið milljónum króna. alkoholu bądź też środków odurzających tracą prawo do otrzymania За езду в нетрезвом состоянии взимается штраф в размере от 70 тысяч до 140 jakiegokolwiek odszkodowania i wszelkie koszty muszą pokryć same. тысяч крон. Водитель, попавший в аварию в состоянии опьянения или под Seat Belt Laws Skylt að nota bílbelti влиянием наркотических средств, не получает страховых выплат и обязан сам Drivers as well as all passengers in a car are required to wear a seat belt, both in the front Ökumenn eða farþegar í bíl eru skyldugir til að vera með bílbelti spennt, bæði í Obowiązek zapinania pasów оплачивать причиненный ущерб, который может составлять миллионы крон. and back seats. Children have to be in a safety seat or use other equipment according to framsæti og aftursæti. Börn eiga að vera í barnabílstólum eða nota búnað sem hæfir Zarówno kierowca jak i pasażer mają obowiązek zapinania pasów, również na their age and weight. stærð þeirra og þyngd. tylnych siedzeniach. Dzieci powinny być w specjalnych fotelikach, Обязательное использование ремня безопасности dopasowanych do swojej wagi i wzrostu. Водитель и пассажиры автомобиля на переднем и заднем сидениях обязаны Please keep the following in mind: Þessu til viðbótar skaltu muna: пристегнуть ремни безопасности. Для перевозки детей должно быть специальное Keep a safe distance between you and the car infront of you to enable you to stop Að hafa nægjanlegt bil í næsta bíl svo þú getir stöðvað hindrunarlaust. O tym dodatkowo powinniśmy pamiętać: автомобильное кресло или другое приспособление, соответствующее росту и your car without any problems. Að syfjaður og þreyttur ökumaður er mjög hættulegur. Zawsze zachowywać bezpieczny odstęp w razie nagłego hamowania. весу ребенка. A tired and worn-out driver is very dangerous. Að oft mælist áfengi í blóði ökumanns daginn eftir drykkju. Zmęczony i śpiący kierowca to niebezpieczny kierowca. В дополнение к вышесказанному следует помнить также, что: Alcohol might still be present in your blood on the day after drinking. Að það er skylt að hafa ökuljósin kveikt í akstri allan sólarhringinn. Poziom alkoholu we krwi utrzymuje się nawet następnego dnia. Необходимо сохранять достаточную дистанцию до движущегося впереди You are required to drive with lights on at all hours. Mikilvægt er að draga úr hraða þegar komið er af vegi með bundnu slitlagi Obowiązkowo należy mieć właczone światła mijania przez całą dobę. автомобиля, чтобы суметь вовремя остановить машину. It is important to slow down when a paved road turns into a gravel road. inn á malarveg. Należy zmiejszyć prędkość podczas zmiany z drogi asfaltowej na Невыспавшийся и усталый водитель очень опасен. In Iceland, there are a large number of single-lane bridges where you have to drive Á Íslandi er fjöldi einbreiðra brúa þar sem gæta þarf mikillar varúðar. szortową. Алкоголь часто сохраняется в крови водителя на следующий день после with special care. Það er bannað að tala í síma á meðan á akstri stendur nema notaður sé Na Islandii jest wiele wąskich mostów, na których należy zachować выпивки. sérstakur handfrjáls búnaður. szczególną ostrożność. It is forbidden to use your mobile phone while driving unless you use a special Фары автомобиля должны быть включены при езде в любое время суток. hands free mobile car kit. Zabrania się rozmowy przez telefon, chyba że posiadamy zestaw Важно замедлить скорость при съезде с асфальта на грунтовую дорогу. Á heimasíðunni www.drive.is er kynningarmyndin „How to drive in słuchawkowy. On www.drive.is, you can find an instructional video on “How to drive in Iceland“ en hún fjallar um akstur við íslenskar aðstæður. Myndin er В Исландии много одноколейных мостов, где нужно соблюдать особенную Iceland” which deals with driving in Icelandic conditions. The video is á ensku, þýsku, frönsku og spænsku. осторожность. Na stronie internetowej www.drive.is można zobaczyć film “Jak available in English, German, French and Spanish. jeździć po Islandii/How to drive in Iceland”, który pokazuje jak Запрещается разговаривать по телефону во время езды без специального powinno się jeździć w islandzkich warunkach pogodowych. Film устройства, освобождающего руки водителя. można obejżeć w języku angielskim, niemieckim, francuskim oraz hiszpańskim. На вебсайте www.drive.is есть видеоролик «Как ездить по Исландии», который посвящен особенностям езды по исландским дорогам. Текст видеоролика на английском, немецком, французском и испанском языках. rive in Iceland e.is and see how to d Visit www.driv 12 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Feature

Photos by GAS Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 13 14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Feature

Lúkas the dog immortalised by a street artist in Lækjartorg. Photo by Páll Hilmarsson – www.reykjavik.gotuli.st

Looking Back

There were many memorable events that shaped the single Icelandic trooper stationed in Iraq. The As it turned out, President Bush was not avail- He was released a day last year. Here is a review of some of the events that lone trooper was a member of the Icelandic Crisis able at the time, but the secretary promised him a stand out in memory. Response Unit (ICRU) and served as a media rep- call-back from the President the following Monday. later after surrendering resentative in Bagdad. Instead of hearing from Bush, Atlason was visited Dog Cheats Death, Photographer Escapes John Craddock, the Supreme Allied Com- by the police who took him to the station for ques- his passport, under the Angry Mob mander Europe for NATO and the US European tioning. The most peculiar news story of 2007 is the adven- Command expressed his disappointment with “I got this number from a friend of mine years conditions that he stay turous tale of Lúkas the Chinese Crested dog won- Gísladóttir’s decision, stating that Iceland was an ago, and it is a direct number for what is called the der who was reported to have met his fate last June important NATO member. Gísladóttir said the deci- ‘security room’ in the White House,” Atlason told away from both the Roy- in a most gruesome manner. sion coincided with the government’s declaration vísir.is. Speaking with ABC News, White House The dog was reported missing mid-May, and that it regretted the war in Iraq, and the decision spokeswoman Emily Lawrimore insisted that At- al Ontario Museum and repeated search missions failed. Mid-June, media to support the invasion. She also stated that in the lason did not dial a private number but instead reports suggested that Lúkas might have been future, Iceland would support development pro- dialled 202-456-1414, the main switchboard for the explosives. He still faces stuffed in a gym bag, which was subsequently used grams in Iraq, like educational programs for Iraqi West Wing. That was not the case. The student gave as a ball-alternative in a game of football between refugees, rather than war efforts. ABC News the number, which verified that it is in- charges of causing mis- a group of young men during a drunken weekend Despite voicing her displeasure with the war deed an extension of the White House switchboard in Akureyri. A young photographer was named in in Iraq, ICRU members are still serving in Afghani- and goes to a security command post office in the chief and being a public relation to the heinous act. Soon his mobile phone, stan. building next door to the White House. e-mail and blog-site were flooded with hundreds of Atlason said he just wanted to chat with the nuisance. messages – in addition to various blog posts and Art Student Jailed in for Artistic President and invite him to Iceland. “I just wanted chat room messages – promising him a fate worse Bomb Threat to talk to him about life and existence over a good than the dog’s, while dog lovers performed candle- A young Icelandic art student, Þórarinn Ingi Jóns- hamburger,” he told vísir.is. He added that his par- light memorial services around the country. son, was arrested in in November for plac- ents did not punish him for his prank. Two weeks later, Lúkas was found alive near ing a sculpture that resembled a bomb outside the Akureyri. He was in good health, despite having Royal Ontario Museum (ROM). The Museum was Iceland’s Very Own Royal Blackmailer lived in the wild for nearly two months. The young vacated and the Canadian Foundation for AIDS In November, news broke that Ian Strachan, aka photographer has filed criminal charges against research was forced to cancel a fundraising gala Paul Aðalsteinsson, had been arrested in London more than 100 people for threats of bodily harm – scheduled at the museum that night. for attempting to extort money from a member of the highest number ever filed at once in Iceland. Jónsson, a student at the Ontario College of the British Royal Family. According to the Sunday Art and Design, turned himself in to police authori- Times, two men contacted a member of the royal Hotel Ousts Pornography Convention, Shuts ties stating that he intended the sculpture, called staff and demanded £50,000, threatening to go pub- Down In-house Porn Channel ‘This is Not a Bomb,’ to be part of video installation lic with video recordings involving sex and drugs if Over one hundred producers of internet pornogra- project for college and that he had no idea the mu- their demand was not met. phy and other industry insiders were scheduled to seum was hosting an AIDS benefit that night. The men said they had evidence that a mem- gather in Iceland for a week-long annual conven- He was released a day later after surrender- ber of the Royal Family had supplied an aide with tion in Reykjavík in March 2007. The convention, ing his passport, undear the conditions that he stay an envelope containing cocaine and that they had called Snowgathering, is one of the largest meet- away from both the Royal Ontario Museum and ex- a video tape showing the aide performing oral sex and-greet sessions of the calendar for internet plosives. He still faces charges of causing mischief on the royal. A detective posing as a member of the porn-merchants. and being a public nuisance. Speaking with the royal staff arranged a meeting at the Hilton hotel on The scheduled convention was promptly Toronto Star newspaper, Toronto police Detective London’s Park Lane on 11 September, where parts cancelled after a collective outcry – from city of- Leslie Dunkley said Jónsson could face up to four of the video were shown. Yard detec- ficials including the Mayor, Members of Parliament, years in prison if convicted. “It’s a very serious of- tives, secretly filming the meeting from an adjacent and various women’s rights groups – forced the Ice- fence,” said Dunkley, noting that the bomb threat room, then arrested the two suspects. landic Farmers Association, owners of Hotel Saga, kept about two dozen police busy and shut down Aðalsteinsson/Strachan, whose father is Ice- to cancel the group’s booking with the Hotel. nearby streets. “We take it seriously and we don’t landic, has lived in Aberdeen for most of his life, A statement from Freeones.com, the event’s want to encourage it.” but Icelandic media has been quick to establish organisers, expressed dismay at this treatment, Jónsson was suspended from the Ontario him as the latest in a row of notable Icelanders stating, “It seems that being connected in any College of Art and Design and two faculty mem- abroad, although some confusion has raged over way to pornography has become a new Icelandic bers were suspended with pay, pending an internal his actual ties to Iceland. Aðalsteinsson/Strachan law for declaring you a persona non grata in their investigation. Speaking with vísir.is, Jónsson said lawyer, Giovanni Di Stefano – who defended Slo- country. A country that seems to care more about he was proud of the work, and pointed out that bodan Milosevic and Saddam Hussein among oth- adult women taking their clothes off – by their own the Canadian public had never spent as much time ers – maintains that Aðalsteinsson/Strachan has an choice, without any pressure or threat – than about talking about art. Icelandic passport and dual citizenship, while Ice- the extinction of living creatures like whales!” land’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs claims that he is In the wake of Hotel Saga’s decision to can- Icelandic Teen Calls President Bush not an Icelandic citizen and has never held an Ice- cel the pornographers’ convention, a decision was One Saturday night in early December, Vífill Atla- landic passport. If convicted, Strachan/Aðalsteins- made to shut down the hotel’s in-house pay-per- son, a 16-year-old student from Akranes, placed a son could serve his time in Iceland, where he could view porn channel. call to one George W. Bush, President of the U.S.A. be released after serving a third of his sentence. Using a secret phone number, Atlason reached the Iceland Calls Trooper Home President’s secretary and introduced himself as Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson In September last year, Minister of Foreign Affairs, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, President of Iceland, and Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir, decided to call home requested a meeting with President Bush. Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 15

Top 10 Albums of 2007

Selecting the album of the year 2007 proved to be a difficult task for the Grapevine selection committee. Opinions varied and heated arguments ensued. No two mem- bers of our committee selected the same album as the year’s best, but certain titles turned up more than others. After much debate and strenuous mathematical exer- cises, using the finest IT equipment and methods of higher order calculus, we came up with the following list. Note, a tiebreaker was required to settle the top seat.

1. Skátar 2. I Adapt 3. Mugison 4. Benny Crespo’s 5. Seabear Ghost of the Bollocks to Chainlike Burden Mugiboogie Gang The Ghost That Carried Come Benny Crespo’s Gang Us Away The original Grapevine review of Hardcore die-hards I Adapt finally re- While Mugison still trudges with one The debut release from the Selfoss The first full-length album from Reyk- Skátar’s The Ghost of the Bollocks to leased a long awaited third LP. Chain- foot along the alternative folk-blues quartet Benny Crespo’s Gang has been javík’s seven piece Seabear generated Come stated: “it is not the most ac- like Burden is the band’s heaviest al- path he carved on 2005’s crowd pleas- on the verge of release for years. It a low key buzz that resonated all the cessible CD the first time around, but bum, full of dramatic outpour and huge, er Mugimama, Is This Monkey Music?, proved to be worth the wait. Benny way to where the respected the quirkiness grows on you.” And it devastating riffs that stay well clear of this album sounds heavier, darker and Crespo’s chaotic indie-rock delivers on label Morr Music decided to pick up does indeed. Skátar’s sound does not the common hardcore emo-delution in general, more sweaty. With a wide all fronts. With Bassi’s powerful drum the International distribution. Seabear lend itself to easy categorisation, with and capture the band’s tremendous variety of influences, from industrial sound, the split vocal duties by Lovísa delivers a folksy-pop sound with ar- a barrage of guitars, bass doodles and live energy. The album has been com- metal to Tom Waits, Mugison might and Helgi Rúnar, Magnús’s synth over- rangements which rely heavily on xy- keyboards that seem to be heading in pared with Iowans Modern Life is War, have proven himself to have the biggest drive, and screeching guitars, in short, lophone, strings, banjo and piano to different directions. Once the initial although might balls in the business. this album is a of men. deliver a warm and beautiful sound. strangeness wears off, what remains is be a more fitting comparison. The most This is the year’s most peaceful and one of the most interesting albums in energetic record of the year by far. pleasant album. years.

6. Ólöf Arnalds 7. Ben Frost 8. Sprengjuhöllin 9. GusGus 10. Megas Við og við Theory of Machines Tímarnir okkar Forever Hold er mold

A former múm vocalist, Ólöf Arnalds’ Theory of Machines is the third release Pop-quintet Sprengjuhöllin has put sen- GusGus have managed to outlive Folk legend Megas added to his re- debut solo album, Við og við, has made from adopted-from--Icelander timentality in the now with their debut their acid & house contemporaries spectable catalogue by publishing two her a whole new set of fans as a singer/ Ben Frost, put out on the Bedroom Com- release, Tímarnir Okkar, that adds a by far, and time has only aged them albums this year: Frágangur, and an songwriter in the old-timer troubadour munity Label. Frost is more of an audio dash of social commentary to a youth- to perfection. The beats are more bit- album of outtakes from the productive fashion. Ólöf’s folk seeks inspiration artist than an out and out musician, fo- ful portrait of modern-day life in Ice- ing and minimal than ever, the hooks Frágangur recording session with mem- from the ’70s sound of Joan Baez in par- cusing on audio explorations, texture land. As one of our Grapevine report- more shamelessly poptastic and infec- bers of the reggae band Hjálmar. As ticular, crossed with the indie flair for and ambience; filtering drone-like gui- ers put it in her previously-published tiously catchy and the Ecstasy just as usual, Megas’ genius lies in the lyrical unconventional instrumental arrange- tar churning and minimal electronica. review, “The distinct unabashed-ness dominant in the bloodstream as it was aspect, although his elegantly simple ments. While her unique voice lies a Theory of Machines has met with criti- at the heart of this album is, like our twelve years ago. It’s always satisfying folk-pop melodies and raspy voice are pitch or two above high, she croons as cal acclaim from the international mu- wasted generation, as fresh and fasci- when a band reaches the age where an often overlooked side of his genius. much as she sings to create the most sic press, although Icelanders have paid nating as it is consequential.” We’re get- it becomes capable of filtering all the This is an album that is likely to inspire endearing album of the year. little attention to his exploits. This is the ting nostalgic already. bullshit out of their music and sticking a whole new generation of fans. year’s most experimental album. to what matters most.

Top 5 Album Covers of 2007

1. Hjaltalín 2. Björk 3. Mínus 4. Benni Hemm Hemm 5. Mr. Silla & Sleepdrunk Seasons Volta The Great Northern Ein í leyni Mongoose Whalekill Foxbite Eggert Pétursson’s intricate landscape Björk stays on top of the fashion game Nut-grabbing photo and an interesting The clever format of Benni Hemm Mr. Silla’s simple and soothing design paintings are a good match with Hjal- with her collaboration with the playful wordplay on both the political climate Hemm’s cover design gives you a thing invites you to lie down on the sofa talín’s detailed musical creations. Bernhard Wilhelm. and a looming social epidemic. to play with while the album plays. while you lisen. Designed by Sigurður Oddsson, paint- Designed by M/M (Paris), costume by Designed by Gunnar Þór Vilhjálmsson, Designed by Auður Jörundsdóttir Designed by Mr. Silla ing by Eggert Pétursson Bernhard Wilhelm photo by Börkur Sigþórsson 16 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Interview

Markús Bjarnason Top of the Charts “We have all been in different bands before that This year, Skátar and I Adapt came dead played a little experimental music, but in this band, even for the Grapevine Album of the Year on this record, it just all came together in a way that award. A Grapevine reporter sat down doesn’t sound too arty or too pretentious, or just with the frontman from each band to quiz them about their award-winning records, plainly too boring.” breaking up, and the pros and cons of small labels. Congratulations on topping our list for album game over. But we were lucky to work with good of the year. people. Thank you. I was convinced, of course, like the Is there a new album on the horizon? other two times I’ve put out a record, that this was We have just applied for sponsorship from the the best record in the world. Icelandic Music Fund to record an E.P. with two Naturally. Did you work on this album for or three songs. We would prefer to record two or long? three new songs rather than focus on a full-length Yes, we did have some time to digest this one. It album just now. That might take us more time. took us a long time to write the material and to You released the album yourselves, didn’t play it until we got rid of the rough edges, but we you? recorded it in two sessions. First we recorded the We released it ourselves in cooperation with foundation during one weekend in a summer Smekkleysa. They take care of the distribution house out in the country. A few months later we in Iceland. We have a little label that is called recorded the overdub and vocals. Since this was Grandmother’s Records, which has previously all done on the side, it took a few months to put also released bands Sofandi and Graveslime, so it all together. A weekend here and a weekend there is a tradition for using that name; we have there. I moved to the to work just also produced shows under that name. But there before the album was released, so when it finally is no structure around it. There is no one working came out, they recruited Reykjavík and Jan Mayen for us promoting the album. But we are lucky that to cover the songs for the release concert. [guitarist] Benni has been working for Smekkley- So you were living in the Faroe Islands? That sa so he is around the computer to maintain our must have made it hard to play shows to pro- Myspace.com site. But I am really pleased with mote the album? the new label in Akureyri, Kimi Records, that is Yes, I came home two months after the album an indie label that is still not too indie to put an came out and then we really started to promote effort into what they are doing. I think it is great the album with a new guitarist, Kolbeinn, who that someone has the ambition to do something joined the band then to replace Ólafur Steinsson like that. But this is just a very dysfunctional busi- who moved to California before the album came ness. I am just happy that I have not gone insane. out. He just recorded the stuff and moved. His wife I am always convinced that we are making great made the artwork for the album, so it took some music and great records, but when you have made time to get that done as well. We had grand plans a few records and nobody agrees, you start to for a tour of the U.S. to go and visit Ólafur, but we doubt yourself, so I am just really happy to hear encountered so many delays that it didn’t pan out, that somebody agrees with me. so that gave us more time to digest it. But, I think Skátar hasn’t played many shows recently, also, the delays meant that once it came out, ev- has it? eryone was fully loaded and rearing to go. No, we played a lot just after I got home, for a few How has the album been received? months, and then around Airwaves, where we Ridiculously well; at least I think so. Maybe be- were playing pretty much the same set we have cause we play a lot of shows and give it our all been playing for two years. Since we added Kol- when we play, we have managed to build up some beinn on guitar, we have only been able to re- momentum around us and this material. It would hearse the set with him, although we have a lot be very easy to dismiss this album, so I’ve been more material. We decided to take a little break very surprised at how many people from different from playing live to be able to rehearse more directions seem to have caught on to it. songs with him and write a few new songs. But It is a little quirky and it did take me a while also, we just wanted to give other bands an op- to get into it, but it grows on you. Was this portunity to shine as well. something you set out to do? I wanted to ask you about the white overalls This was just the material we had at hand, we you always play in, what is the deal with couldn’t really manipulate it much, so it wasn’t that? very planned. It is just when people like us come I am really the wrong person to answer that ques- together to make music over a long period of time, tion, because that tradition started before I joined writing songs that may take a year to complete the band. I think the deal was that they wanted and trying different parts together, it may sound to play in some kind of uniform, and this was the a bit odd at first, and it feels a bit odd when you most economical solution. Then it just sort of are writing it, but I think that is what we thrive on stuck. The overalls are very warm, and we play a as a band. To make music that you haven’t heard lot better in them than without them, at least to anywhere else. Something that turns you on and begin with. But we premiered new uniforms at last makes you say ‘damn, that’s strange,’ then that year’s Airwaves: golden latex pants. We are very is something we try to expand on. A lot of these pleased with them. songs sound like ordinary pop songs to us, but we stay with it because it may contain a harder Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson chapter later. So you set out to do something a little off- centre? Yes, well, we allow what might surprise you. I don’t know when it started, but we have all been in dif- ferent bands before that played a little experimen- tal music, but in this band, on this record, it just all came together in a way that doesn’t sound too arty or too pretentious, or just plainly too boring. This is not an album that is written for the 1% that likes to experiment. There is a lot of pop influence on this record as well. But the main idea is to allow the surprises to go in. But really, we owe it to our friends Bjarni and Ingi who recorded and mixed the album. This comes through on the record because if you are dealing with ‘difficult’ or ‘off- centre’ music and the sound is not good, then it’s Info | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 info. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings · Eating, Drinking and Shopping · Map plus The Golden Plover returns from Venice · Earth’s final concert with GusGus

Photos by Ívar Brynjólfsson above Nýló celebrates its 30th anniversary (B14) B2 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Listings

Art The Golden Plover

Steingrímur Eyfjörð is one of Iceland’s group of new works in a wide variety of 1 January 2008, admission to the leading artists. He has exhibited ex- of media and demonstrated the artist’s Reykjavík Art Museum is free. tensively locally and internationally take on various myths that have been and represented Iceland at the Venice known to Icelandic society since the January 10 – March 2 Biennale last year. His contribution to early days. On January 10, Eyfjörð’s Reykjavík Art Museum (Hafnarhús), the art festival was an intriguing in- Golden Plover arrived at the Reykjavík Tryggvagata 17 stallation, entitled ‘The Golden Plover Art Museum where it will be on display Has Arrived’, which brought together a until March 2. It’s worth noting that as

If you would like to be included in the Magni & Á móti Sól, Sprengjuhöllin, Sat 19.01 Party Zone presents: German Grapevine listings, free of charge, Guðrún Gunnars and Friðrik Ómar, electro maniac Marc Romboy backed contact the Grapevine by email at Garðar Thór Cortes, Land & synir, by Tomas Andersson (SE) Super Dis- [email protected]. Klaufarnir, Stebbi and Eyfi, SSSÓL, Bir- kant (SE) and local crowd-pleasers DJ gitta Haukdal, HARA and Ragnheiður Casanova and DJ Lazer. Starts at 23:00 Gröndal Fri 25.01 Burn party featuring the infa- Thu 31.01 The Icelandic Symphony mous Tommy Lee and DJ Aero Music Orchestra: Musical Descendants Óliver Thu 07.02 The Icelandic Symphony Laugavegur 20a Orchestra: Dark Days of Music Fri 11.01 DJ Óli Dóri followed by Gull- 12 Tónar Hellirinn (TÞM) foss og Geysir Skólavörðustígur 15 Hólmaslóð 2 Sat 12.01 DJ Haukur followed by DJ Fri 11.01 Artist Inga Mæja opens a solo Fri 11.01 Concerts: TBA Daði exhibition. Reykjavík! plays acoustic Sat 02.02 I Adapt concert. Opening act: Organ rocksongs. Starts at 17:00 Gavin Portland Hafnarstræti 1-3 Bar 11 Hressó Fri 11.01 DJ Thor Laugavegur 11 Austurstræti 20 Sat 12.01 Ed Banger Night featuring On weekends DJs Óli Dóri Weapons, Fri 11.01 Pub lic followed by DJ Maggi Busy P. Starts at 23:00 Biggi Maus, Gulli Ósóma and Matti. Sat 12.01 Tepokinn followed by DJ Fri 18.01 Breakbeat.is party. Starts at Barinn Maggi 23:00 Laugavegur 22 Fri 18.01 Trubadours Gotti and Eisi fol- Sat 19.01 Janis Joplin tribute show Fri 11.01 Flex and Brunheim (1 floor) / lowed by DJ Maggi featuring Andrea Gylfa, Lay Low, Rósa Nick (2 floor) Sat 19.01 Trubadours Alexander and in Sometime, Elíza, Didda, Kenya, Rag- Sat 12.01 Hugsandi dans tónlist (1 Örvar followed by DJ Maggi nheiður Gröndal, Jenni Brain Police floor) / Ási don disco (2 floor) Fri 25.01 Trubadours Alexander and and many more. Starts at 22:00. Hafnarborg Örvar followed by DJ Bjarni Wed 23.01 Concert: Shadow Parade Strandgata 34 Sat 26.01 Tepokinn followed by DJ and Múgsefjun. Starts at 21:00 Sun 20.01 Performance by The Reyk- Bjarni Thu 24.01 Monitor Night. Starts at 21:00 javík Trio. Starts at 20:00. Kaffibarinn Fri 25.01 Bloodgroup DJ Set Thu 07.02 Antonia Hevesi will be Bergstaðastræti 1 Wed 30.01 Concert: Hraun. Starts at playing the piano and her guest, Bjarni Fri 11.01 DJ Nuno Lx 21:00 Thor Kristinsson will play the bass. Sat 12.01 DJ Maggi Lego Thu 31.01 This is Spirit (UK). Starts at Starts at 12:00. Fri 18.01 DJ Terrordisco 21:00 Háskólabíó Sat 19.01 DJ Árni Sveinsson Thu 07.02 Monitor concert At Hagatorg Thu 24.01 DJ Maggi Lego Fri 08.02 Barcode presents DJ Fex Thu 17.01 The Icelandic Symphony Or- Fri 01.02 DJ Maggi Lego Prikið chestra: Songs of Love and Heartbreak Sat 02.02 DJ Nuno Lx Bankastræti 12 Sun 20.01 Concerts to support The Nasa Fri 11.01 DJ Danni Deluxe Icelandic Childhood Cancer Par- by Austurvöllur Sat 12.01 DJ Cold Hands ent Organisation. Performances by Fri 18.01 Björn Thoroddsen’s band Thu 17.01 DJ Anna Brá Luxor, Dísella, Nylon, Bubbi Morthens, Cold Front in concert. Starts at 22:00 Fri 18.01 DJ Jói B Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | B3

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by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir

Film French Film Festival

From January 11 to 24, a French film comedian Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, best ed movie is based on the acclaimed festival will take place at Háskólabíó known by his stage name Molière. The autobiographical graphic novel of the movie theatre. For these two weeks, 11 documentary ‘Terror’s Advocate’ will same name, written by Iranian author movies will be screened, most of them also be shown; a film about the contro- Marjane Satrapi. brand-new films that are testament to versial lawyer Jacques Vergès who has The festival is organised by Green Welcome! the diversity in French filmmaking. become famous for defending some of Light Films, Alliance Française and the Witajcie! The programme includes: ‘Prom- the world’s most brutal war criminals French embassy. For a complete sched- ยินดีต้อนรับ! ise Me This,’ directed by Emir Kustu- and militants. ule and tickets see www.midi.is. The official site of Reykjavik City is now available in rica; the romantic comedy ‘2 Days in The opening film of the festival, English, Polish and Thai language, www.reykjavik.is Paris’; and Laurent Tirard’s ‘Molière’, ‘Persepolis’, is a flick for the whole fam- January 11 – 24 about the 16th-century playwright and ily to enjoy. The award winning animat- Háskólabíó Movie Theatre at Hagatorg The department of welfare gives information and advice about social entitlements and pro- vides support in cases of social or personal problems for registered residents in Reykjavik. For general information about operations in the City of Reykjavik and additional information on e.g. specific housing benefits, pre-school applications or financial aid, you should contact Sat 19.01 DJ De la Rósa Hverfisgata 15 service centers in your own neighbourhood: Thu 24.01 DJ Anna Brá Open daily 11–17 • Vesturgarður, service centre for the residents of Vesturbaer district, Hjardarhagi 45-47, tel. 411-1700 Fri 25.01 DJ Óli Hjörtur Art www.thjodmenning.is • Hlíðar, service centre for the residents of the city centre and the district of Hlidar, Sat 26.01 DJ Danni Deluxe Permanent exhibitions: Skulagata 21, tel. 411-1600 • Laugardalur and Háaleiti, service centre for the residents of the districts of Laugardalur and Thu 31.01 DJ Anna Brá Medieval Manuscripts Haaleiti, Sidumuli 39, tel. 411-1500 Q-Bar 101 Gallery The National Museum – as it was • Breidholt, service centre for the residents of Breidholt, Alfabakka 12, tel. 411-1300 • Árbær and Grafarholt, service centre for the residents of the districts of Arbaer and Grafar- Ingólfsstræti 3 Hverfisgata 18 The Library Room; The Road to Zion holt, Baejarhals 1, tel. 411-1200 Fri 11.01 DJ Ýr and Ási Thu.–Sat. 14–17 and by appointment Excursion • Miðgarður, service centre for the residents of Grafarvogur and Kjalarnes, Langarima 21, tel. 411-1400 Sat 12.01 DJ Maggi Lego www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Current exhibitions: Fri 18.01 Surprise Party Artótek Surtsey – Genesis

Sat 19.01 DJ Yamaho and DJ Kári Tryggvagata 15 The exhibition traces the emergence Tryggvagata 17 Thu 24.01 DJ Margrét Hugrún Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri 11–19, and evolution of the island of Surtsey 101 Reykjavík Tel: 411 9000 Fri 25.01 DJ Diva De La Rósa Sat and Sun 13–17 until the present day and predicts www.velferdarsvid.is Sat 26.01 DJs Skapti and Ingvi. Groove- www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek its geographical and ecological box DJ set. Current exhibition: development over the next 120 years. Fri 01.02 DJs Ýr & Ási Exhibition by Eva G. Sigurðardóttir The Nation and Nature Sat 02.02 Surprise Guests ASÍ Art Museum A nature film by filmmaker Páll Fri 08.02 DJ Haffi Haff Haff Freyjugata 41 Steingrímsson Sirkus Tue–Sun 13–17 Dwarf Gallery Klapparstígur 30 Free Entrance Grundarstígur 21 Fri 11.01 DJ Jón Atli The museum is closed for repairs from Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 Sat 12.01 DJ Hjalti 16 December 2007 to 8 March 2008. www.this.is/birta 9^c^c\dji4 Sun 13.01 French DJs Legal Tender Auga fyrir Auga Fotografí 8]ZX`djidjg Wed 16.01 DJ Unnur Andrea Hverfisgata 35 Skólavörðustígur 4a Thu 17.01 Concerts: TBA Open Thu–Fri 15–19, Sat–Sun 14–17 www.fotografi.is bVcn[ddY Fri 18.01 Jón Jónson Nigh Café Mokka Gallery 100º gZk^Zlhdca^cZ Sat 19.01 DJ Þórhallur Skólavörðustígur 3a Bæjarháls 1 Thu 24.01 DJ Jason and Sometime Open daily from 9-18:30 www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ concert Current exhibition: Open weekdays from 08:30 – 16:00 Fri 25.01 Sirkus is closing! Huge Ukrainian Reality Oct 20 – Jan 15, 2008 farewell concerts featuring numerous Pétur Geir Óskarsson’s photography Cube surprise acts. The line-up will be an- exhibition features black and white Project of media artists Holger Mader nounced later on photos from the Ukrainian coal mining and Alexander Stublic and architect Sat 26.01 Sirkus is closing! Huge fare- city Krasnyi Luch. Heike Wiermann well concerts The Einar Jónsson Museum Gallery Art - Iceland Thorvaldsen Eiríksgata Skólavörðustígur 1a Austurstræti 8-10 Tue–Sun 14–17 www.art-iceland.com On weekends DJ Daddi “Diskó” and www.skulptur.is Current exhibition: LLL#C:#>H DJ Hlynur Permanent exhibition: Biðhetjur-Biðenglar The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Bergur Thorberg exhibition CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh The Culture House Gallery Ágúst B4 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Listings

Upcoming concerts songs of love THURSDAY, JANUARY 17TH @ 7:30 PM and heartbreak Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba Soloist ::: Rannveig Fríða Bragadóttir Gustav Mahler ::: Rükert-Lieder Ralph Vaughan-Williams ::: Symphony nr. 5 Þorkell Sigurbjörnsson ::: Bows of light musical THURSDAY, JANUARY 31ST @ 7:30 PM descendants Conductor ::: John Neschling Soloist ::: Natasha Korsakova Carmargo Guarnieri ::: Abertura concertante Johannes Brahms ::: Violin Concerto op. 77 Sergei Rachmaninoff ::: Symphony nr. 2, op. 27 dark days THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7TH @ 7:30 PM of music Conductor ::: Roland Kluttig - a festival of new Soloists ::: Gunnar Guðbjörnsson icelandic music Ágúst Ólafsson Atli Heimir Sveinsson ::: Symphony nr. 3 - World Premiére John Speight ::: Symphony nr. 4 - World Premiére a virtuoso THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 21ST @ 7:30 PM Art cellist Conductor ::: Eivind Aadland Soloist ::: Daniel Müller-Schott Joseph Haydn ::: Cello Concerto, D-major Colour-madness at Gallery Ágúst Ludwig van Beethoven ::: Symphony nr. 6 “Pastoral” Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart ::: The Magic Flute, Overture On January 12, artist Davíð Örn Hall- surroundings. At Gallery Ágúst, he will landic artists selected to present their dórsson opens his solo exhibition ‘Ab- present adventurous and colourful works at the HangArt-7 art exhibition in tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is salút gamall kastale’ at Gallery Ágúst. paintings as well as a large wall paint- Salzburg last fall. or tel. 545 2500 Halldórsson, who usually works in the ing that fully occupies one of the gal- The exhibition opens at 16:00 on All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. medium of painting, is known for his lery’s walls. January 12 and his paintings will be on use of unconventional materials in his Halldórsson has exhibited wide- display until February 23. fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra creations, such as car enamel, oil pas- ly both in Iceland and abroad since he WWW.SINFONIA.IS tel and spray paint. His work often refer- graduated from the Icelandic Academy January 12 – February 23 ences graphics, graffiti and pop-culture of the Arts a couple of years ago. For in- Gallerí Ágúst, Baldursgata 12 and is influenced by daily life and his stance, he was among the group of Ice-

Baldursgata 12 Thu 13–22 Tue–Sun 12–17 ข้อคิด 10 ประการ Wed–Sat 12–17 www.nylo.is www.nordice.is/ www.galleriagust.is The Museum will be closed until Jan. 12 – Jan. 13 Jan. 12 – Feb. 23 Feb. 11 to prepare for a special The Dari Dari Dance Company will be 1. คิดในแง่ดี จะทำการอันใดก็จะง่ายขึ้น Absalút gamall kastale 30th anniversary itinerary. Some performing at 8 pm. 2. ถนอมน้ำใจแก่บุคคลที่ท่านรัก Davíð Örn Halldórsson exhibition happenings will still take place and Jan. 12 – Jan. 31 3. ไม่แก่เกินไปที่จะใฝ่หาเรียนรู้ Gallery Fold event announcements will be posted The Beauty of Islam Rauðarárstígur 14–16 on www.nylo.is. Photographic exhibition examining 4. ผิดเป็นครู Mon–Fri 10–18 The Lost Horse Gallery Middle-Eastern and Islamic 5. เคลื่อนไหวร่างกายเป็นประจำ ทำให้ชีวิตสดชื่น Sat 11–16 Skólastræti 1 architecture. 6. ไม่ควรทำชีวิตของท่านให้ยุ่งยากโดยไม่จำเป็น Sun 14–16 www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse.html Jan. 19 – Feb. 10 www.myndlist.is Jan 12 - 25 Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir exhibition 7. พยายามเข้าใจและให้การสนับสนุน Gallery Gel Exhibition by Anika Todd and Una The Numismatic Museum แก่บุคคลรอบข้าง Hverfisgata 37 Stígsdóttir Kalkofnsvegur 1 8. ไม่คิดย่อท้อ,วิ่งเข้าสู่ความสำเร็จของชีวิต Mon–Fri 13–18 From Jan 26 Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. 9. ฝึกฝนและค้นหาทักษะให้กับตนเอง Sat 11–16 Exhibition by Rakel Gunnarsdóttir Free admission. Sun 14–16 The National Film Archive of Permanent exhibition: 10. ตั้งจุดมุ่งหมาย และสร้างฝันให้เป็นจริง www.myspace.com/gallerigel Iceland The Central Bank of Iceland and the Gallery Turpentine Hvaleyrarbraut 13 National Museum of Iceland jointly Ingólfsstræti 5 www.kvikmyndasafn.is operate a numismatic collection Tue–Fri 12–18 The National Film Archive of Iceland consisting of Icelandic notes and Sat 11–16 screens old movie classics and coins. www.turpentine.is masterpieces twice a week for 500 ISK Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Current exhibition: per ticket. Aðalstræti 16 Attention Electrical Workers! Euphora The National Gallery of Iceland Open daily 10–17 Arngunnur Ýr exhibition Fríkirkjuvegur Permanent exhibition: Basic pay Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Tue–Sun 11–17 The Settlement Exhibition For unskilled workers: Gerðuberg 3–5 Free Entrance Reykjavík Art Museum No less then 153.409 Ikr pr. Month – 885 Ikr. pr. hour in daytime, Mon–Thu 11–17 www.listasafn.is – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture 1.521 Ikr. pr. hour in overtime. Wed 11–21 Nov 2 – Feb 10, 2008 Museum Thu–Fri 11–17 Kristján Davíðsson exhibition Sigtún For skilled worker: Sat–Sun 13–16 Nov 2 – Feb 10, 2008 Open daily 10–16 No less then 194.805 Ikr pr. Month. – 1.124 Ikr. pr hour in daytime, 1.946 Ikr pr. hour in overtime. www.gerduberg.is Works from the collection of Markús Free entrance. Hitt Húsið Ívarsson www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Market wages Pósthússtræti 3-5 The National Museum Current exhibition: Unskilled Electrical worker: www.hitthusid.is Suðurgata 41 The Shape of Line 1.000 – 1.200 Ikr. pr. hour for in daytime, 1.800 – 2.000 Ikr pr. From Jan 12: Open daily 10–17 A new retrospective of the works by hour in overtime. Progress, Ink and Tea natmus.is/ Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Skilled Electrical worker: Hanna Aniela Frelek exhibition Permanent exhibition: focuses on abstract works from 1945 1.450 – 1.700 Ikr. pr. hour for in daytime, 2.100 – 2.500 Ikr pr. i8 Gallery The Making of a Nation onwards. hour in overtime. Klapparstígur 33 Sep 9–Jan 27 Jan. 27 from 1 to 4 pm. Tue–Fri 11–17 Extraordinary Child An open art workshop for the whole For more information, Contact Sat 13–17 and by appointment Photographs by Mary Ellen Mark and family, using Ásmundur Sveinsson’s Rafiðnaðarsamband Íslands www.i8.is Ívar Brynhólfsson, artwork by students sculptures as inspiration for three- Stórhöfða 31 - 112 Reykjavík Current exhibition: in Öskjuhlíðaskóli and Safamýrarskóli, dimensional creative projects. Tel. 580 5200 Fax 580 5220 Works by Ívar Valgarðsson and a documentary by filmmaker Reykjavík Art Museum [email protected] Living Art Museum Martin Bell. – Hafnarhús www.rafis.is Laugavegur 26 The Nordic House Tryggvagata 17 Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 Sturlugata 5 Open daily 10–17 and on Thursdays Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | B5 “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Don’t miss it!

Viking feasts every night - live entertainment • Hotel • Restaurants • Souveniers

Music Janis Joplin Tribute Concert

On her would-be 65th birthday, Friday, ing career.Joplin rose to fame in the and arrangement, as artists from a vari- January 19, a group of vocal soloists late 60s as the lead singer of blues outfit ety of musical genres in the Reykjavík For booking and will perform at Organ in tribute to the Big Brother and the Holding Company scene come together to celebrate her further information: musical stylings and accomplishments before veering off and establishing the work. Tel.: +354 565-1213 of blues-rock-legend Janis Joplin. beginnings of a successful solo career, The concert begins at 21:00. Ad- www.vikingvillage.is Andrea Gylfadóttir, Lay Low, Elí- and in her short lifetime earned the sta- mission costs 2,000 ISK. [email protected] za, Diva de la Rósa, Didda, Kenya, Rag- tus of something of a legendary rugged Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur nheiður Gröndal, and Jenni of Brain blues-mama. January 19 Police, among others, will perform The interpretations of her songs Organ, Hafnarstræti 1-3 songs from Joplin’s short-lived record- will surely vary greatly in temperament

10–22 Flókagata Photography Free Entrance. Open Daily 10–17 Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor Nov. 2 – Jan. 27 Free entrance. Weekdays 12–19 Hreinn Friðfinnsson exhibition Nov. 17 – Jan. 13 Sat–Sun 13–17 Friðfinnsson’s practice encompasses Blonde Miss World 1951 Free entrance photography and drawing as well as Paintings by Birgir Snæbjörn Birgisson. www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is sculptures and installations. His works He has painted portraits of Miss Dec. 1 – Feb. 17 are linked by a common sensibility World winning contestants from 1951 Flickr-flakk og heljarstökk and lightness of touch. onwards. Dec. 20 – Feb. 12 Nov. 2 – Jan. 27 Oct. 20 – Jan. 13 Í Skotinu An exhibition of definitive major works Meditation on Furniture Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum from The Reykjavík Art Museum’s Erró Works of architect and designer Óli Laugarnestangi 70 Collection. Jóhann Ásmundsson Open Tue–Sun 14–17 Jan. 10 – Mar. 2008 Jan. 5 – Apr. 6 Permanent exhibition: The Golden Plover has Arrived Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval – From the Works of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Steingrímur Eyfjörð’s installation was Museum’s Collection SMÁTÍMA Iceland’s contribution to the Venice Jan. 26 – Apr. 6 Laugavegur 21 (basement) Biennale in 2007. Selected sculptures by Nína Jan. 11 Jan. 10 – Mar. 2 Sæmundson (1892-1965) from the Opening: Helga Arnalds and Ástríður D7 Reykjavik Art Museum collection. Magnúsdóttir Ingi Rafn Steinarsson Jan. 26. – Apr. 6 Jan. 18 Jan. 17 at 3 pm. Mikines – A Retrospective Opening: Una Björk Sigurðardóttir and Artist’s Talk A retrospective of the work of the Rakel Jónsdóttir Ingirafn Steinarsson talks with curator distinguished Faroese painter Samuel Jan. 25 Fee Quay. Joensen-Mikines. Opening: Logi Bjarnason and Hanna Jan. 20 at 2 pm. Jan. 27 at 3 pm. Birna Geirmundsdóttir A guided tour and art workshop for the Mikines – A Retrospective Start Art / Art Shop whole family, with activities inspired Art historian Aðalsteinn Ingólfsson Laugavegur 12b by the Hreinn Friðfinnsson exhibition. leads a tour of the exhibition. www.startart.is Jan. 20 at 3 pm. Reykjavík Maritime Museum Jan. 10 – Feb. 6 A Conversation about Hreinn Grandagarður 8 Exhibitions by Elín Helena Evertsdóttir Visual artists Ingólfur Arnarson and Open Tue–Sun 11–17 and Sigrid Valtingojer Birta Guðjónsdóttir conduct a tour of www.sjominjasafn.is the exhibition and discuss Hreinn’s Current exhibition: work, his influence on their own work, Trawlers in Iceland Outside Reykjavík and his influence on Icelandic art as Reykjavík Museum a whole. (Árbæjarsafn) Hafnarborg Jan. 24 at 8 pm. Kistuhylur 4 Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Screening of “City Walls: My Own Open daily from 10–17 Mon.–Sun. 11–17 Private Teheran” (2006) www.arbaejarsafn.is www.hafnarborg.is by Afsar Sonia Shafie. Director will be Current exhibitions: Jan. 12 – Mar. 3 present for Q&A. Building Techniques in Reykjavík To celebrate its 25th anniversary Jan. 31 at 8 pm. 1840-1940 Hafnarborg will host an exhibition of Steingrímur Eyfjörð and curator Hanna Disco and Punk – Different cultures? art from Hafnarborg’s Collection. Styrmisdóttir discuss Steingrímur History of Reykjavík – from farm to Gljúfrasteinn Eyfjörð’s work and participation in the city – Halldór Laxness museum Venice Biennale. Memories of a House 270 Mosfellsbær Reykjavík Art Museum Living and Playing Open daily except Mondays from – Kjarvalsstaðir The Reykjavík Museum of 10 –17. B6 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Listings

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Art Calm Ripples Currents at i8

Ívar Valgarðsson’s newest installation to art, Ívar tends to use his materials in ‘Calm Ripples Currents’ at gallery i8 their most literal and direct terms. In his explores man’s relationship to colour most recent exhibit, he explores among in the natural environment, and how other things how liquid paint creates a that perception manifests itself in our still surface in a tub of paint and how manmade environment. Ívar attempts paint forms different surfaces under to explore the quality and nature of different circumstances. Ívar poses the paint and colour as well as how light, question, “Can we imagine the sun as reflection, and perspective controls the opening of a giant paint bucket that how color manifests itself and how we pours its yellow rays over the world?” experience it. Ívar’s art is born around views of our everyday environment. Opens on January 11 Known for his un-whimsical approach i8, Klapparstígur 33

Kópavogur Art Museum Skaftfell – Gerðarsafn Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Hamraborg, Kópavogur www.skaftfell.is Open daily 11–17 except Mondays Jan. 12 – Feb. 24 www.gerdarsafn.is Icelandic Visual Art – 100 years in a The Icelandic Museum nutshell of Design and Applied Art Lyngás 7–9, 121 Garðabær Opening hours: Tues.–Fri. 14–18; Sat. and Sun. 16–18. www.mudesa.org Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic writer Halld r Laxness, www.gljufrasteinn.is Nobel Prize for literature 1955. design. 20 min from Reykjavik city centre The Icelandic Settlement Centre On the way to Thingvellir National Park

Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes Tel. + 354 586 8066 / www.gljufrasteinn.is Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Sep Films to May 11–17. www.landnam.is Permanent exhibitions: Hitman The Settlement of Iceland: The Saga of Smárabíó Egill Skalla-Grímsson The Golden Compass Suðsuðvestur Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Laugarásbíó, Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Regnboginn, Borgarbíó, Sambíón Thu.–Fri. 16–18 Keflavík Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Dan in Real Life www.sudsudvestur.is Regnboginn Vatnasafn / Library of Water American Gangster Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur Sambíóin Álfabakki www.libraryofwater.is Beowulf Open daily from 11–17. Sambíóin Kringlan Permanent exhibition: White Roni Horn installation. She has Sambíóin Álfabakki replaced stacks of books with glass The Nanny Diaries columns containing water gathered Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Borgarbíó from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial Duggholufólkið rivers. Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Borgarbíó Sandgerði Museum Alvin and the Chipmunks Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó Until Feb 7, 2008 I am Legend Polar Adventures Sambíóin Álfabakki, Háskólabíó, Exhibition on the life and work of the Sambíóin Kringlan, Sambíóin Selfoss, French polar explorer, scientist and Sambíóin Akureyri doctor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. National Treasure: Book of Jónas Viðar Gallery Secrets Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Fri.–Sat. 13–18 Kringlan, Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfoss Akureyri Art Museum Enchanted Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Sambíóin Álfabakki, Smabíóin Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Kringlan, Sambíóin Akureyri www.listasafn.akureyri.is Bee Movie Jan. 19 - Mar. 9 Sambíóin Álfabakki Exhibition on . Free We Own the Night admission on Thursdays. Háskólabíó, Regnboginn DaLí Gallery Fred Clause Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Sambíóin Kringlan Mon.–Sat. 14–18 Run, Fat Boy, Run www.daligallery.blogspot.com Laugarásbíó, Regnboginn, GalleriBOX I’m Not There LLL#C:#>H Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri Regnboginn www.galleribox.blogspot.com Saw IV 8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh Current exhibition: Sambíóin Keflavík Þorbjörg Halldórsdóttir exhibition Lust, Caution Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | B7 www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T 590 1200 F 5901201

Music Ed Banger Party at Organ

The newly founded event company Jón The Ed Banger nights have been ma- Jónsson presents a genuine electro fi- jor hits among clubbers around the esta at Organ, January 12. The star of world so some craziness can surely the night is French DJ Busy P, a veteran be expected at Organ this Saturday. when it comes to drawing a crowd to Also playing are DJ President Bongo the dance floor. He is the owner of and local trendsters in Steed Lord. The Paris-based Ed Banger records, one of party starts at 23:00 and tickets can be the top labels in the electronic music bought at www.midi.is for 1,500 ISK or scene today, home to crowd-pleasers at the door. such as Justice, Uffie, Mr. Ozio and DJ Mehdi. Busy P is also the manager of January 12 Daft Punk, Cassius and Justice. Organ, Hafnarstræti 1-3

Regnboginn a discussion on immigration matters The Mist (Jan 11) from 10:00 – 16:30 this Friday. The Aliens vs. Predator (Jan 18) meeting takes place at the Ministry of The Game Plan (Jan 18) Social Affairs and is open to all for a Charlie Wilson’s War (Jan 18) 1,500 ISK admission fee. Lunch and Atonement (Jan 18) coffee included. The organisers want Cloverfield (Jan 25) to hear people’s views and ideas on Sweeney Todd: The Demon how to make a good action plan on im- Listasafn Reykjavíkur Barber of Fleet (Jan 25) migration issues and matters such as Reykjavik Art Museum The Darjeeling Limited (Jan 25) education, health service, prejudice, Walk Hard (Feb 1) legislation and the labour marked. Underdog (Feb 1) Speakers include Hrannar Björn Rambo (Feb 1) Arnarsson, chairman of the Immigra- Fanboys (Feb 1) tion Council and Halldór Halldórsson, chairman of The Association of Local Authorities in Iceland. For more info French Film Festival see: www.felagsmalaraduneyti.is. The Ministry of Social Affairs, Bor- Háskólabíó gartún 6 (4th floor) Jan 11 – Jan 24 Dari Dari Dance Company Persepolis Sat 12.01 Dancers, Guðrún Óskarsdót- 9^c^c\dji4 Molière tir, Inga Maren Rúnarsdóttir and Katla Promets Moi Þórarinsdóttir and musician Lydía 8]ZX`djidjg Terror’s Advocate Grétarsdóttir make up the dance group bVcn[ddY L’Enfer Dari Dari Dance Company which will 2 Days in Paris, Serko premiere a new piece at the Nordic gZk^Zlhdca^cZ Le Dernier House on January 12. The piece builds Des Fous on everyday life and how people tend Changement D’Adresse to deal with various incidents. The Dans Les Cordes space used as a setting is the public Douches Froides toilet in Nordic House’s basement. For more information see www.af.is The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, www. nordice.is Reykjavík Documentary Movie Theatres Workshop Thu 24.01 Reykjavík Documentary Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 Workshop presents: ‘City Walls: My 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 Own Private Teheran’ by Iranian direc- Háskólabíó, Hagatorg tor Afsar Sonia Shafie. The film tells a 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 story of the director’s Grandma, her Laugarásbíó, Laugarás mother and herself. In a very private 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 and exemplary way this fascinating Smárabíó, Smáralind and personal film tells us about how 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 women fight for their right to progress Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 in Iran. Screening will take place at the 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Reykjavik Art Museum (Hafnarhúsið), Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 on January 24 at 20:00. The director 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 will be present for Q&A from 14:00 Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg to16:00 at the same location on Janu- 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 ary 26. Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Reykjavik Art Museum (Hafnarhúsið), 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 Tryggvagata 17 Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Events LLL#C:#>H Immigration Issues Discussed Fri 11.01 The Ministry of Social Affairs CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh and the Immigration Council present & :6I>C< - (% H=DEE>C< (, IkZ^g;^h`Vg 9DLCIDLCG:N@?6KÏ@ @gVjb Geirsgata 9 Aðalstræti 10 6bZg^XVcHinaZ )& 8^ciVbVc^ Tryggvagata 26 Tveir Fiskar is predominantly a seafood & Laugavegur 11 The Kraum Iceland Design store features restaurant, although land-based animals the best from the latest trends in Icelan- What makes American Style burgers dis- ' Cintamani stocks quality Icelandic out- also appear on the menu. At lunchtime, Hafnarstræti dic design. Kraum sells unique, Icelandic tinct from all the other ones in the city &' ( door-gear and travel equipment, guaran- you can have a three-course meal for takes on everyday items like stationary, is the size, the soft bun and the amount teed to keep the whole family nice and 2300 ISK, which is pretty reasonable. wooden children’s toys, plastic zip-lock- of fresh veggies in the toppings. Grab a warm in any type of weather. Here you’ll As an extra bonus, the chef has been able handbags and raincoats, and wool- seat in one of the booths with your bbq find almost everything needed for your awarded the Medal of the Order of the Austurstræti ) len and other clothing and jewellery. heavy special with bacon and cheese, trip across the country and beyond, and White Rose by the President of . fries and a soda and you won’t get hun- you can book an adventure excursion on gry for hours. the spot.

Bankastræti', &( Ingólfsstræti &. ' CdccVW^i^ . H]Va^bVg (& @gdc`gdc (- =VcYeg_‹cV" Lækjargata (( Hafnarstræti 11 Austurstræti 4 )( '% Laugavegur 63b hVbWVcY^ (+ , &+ (% Hverfisgata Lækjargata 2a Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, Shalimar prides itself on being the north- (. Laugavegur Located on the corner of Laugavegur Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, is ernmost Indian restaurant in the world. '* '. (* and Vitastígur, this hip clothing wonder- The Handknitting Association of Iceland’s one of the more popular junk food plac- The daily special, a sample of two dish- land sells trendy designer wear for both official store, Handprjónasambandið, sells RESTAURANT es around, a large selection of es, goes for around 1000 ISK. But we sexes. Shoppers can purchase everything HEDII=>H/8^ciVbVc^ &&(% Skólavörðustígur wool products of uncompromising qual- Press reviews: take-out or dine-in subs, sandwiches and recommend the chicken tikka masala, &, )' here, from funky street wear and elegant ity. The store features pullover sweaters, burgers with a nice dash of the unique known to be highly addictive. Laugavegur 11, 101 Reykjavík '& '( dresses to limited-edition shoes and .. Probably the best cardigans and other wool accessories. Nonni-sauce. If you have a late-night jewellery from major fashion labels such They also sell yarn and the association Cintamani stocks quality Icelandic outdoor- everything needed for your trip across the addition to Icelandic craving there’s no need to worry, Nonni Klapparstígur as Vivienne Westwood, Umbro, Cheap hosts knitting nights at Iðu Húsið is open longer than most other places. gear and travel equipment, guaranteed to country and beyond, and you can book an ') Monday and Marc by Marc Jacobs. restaurant landscape keep the whole family nice and warm in adventure excursion on the spot. &- any type of weather. Here you’ll find almost .. Great food, something new in Iceland, like never ( 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij &% H_{kVgWVg^cc &% (' =[jghZb]a¨_V (. CV`i^6e^cc seen before Tryggvagata Grandagarður 9 Skólavörðustígur 18 Bankastræti 14 - Fine dining Indian There’s a good reason why there’s always Located down by the old harbour, Sjá- Loosely translated as ‘Happy Smiling The designer shop The Naked Ape offers cusine, hard to beat a queue in front of Bæjarins Bestu, no varbarinn offers plain and fresh fish, the Headwear’, the shop’s owners have an amazing variety of colourful street- anywhere!! matter the weather or time of day. Se- way Icelanders have been consuming designed whacky hats and headwear clothing, including hand-printed hooded lected the best hot-dog stand in Europe it for centuries, at a competitive price. '- since 1994 and stock a good selection sweatshirts, T-shirts and leggings. Inside Frakkastigur 12, by The Guardian – something locals real- Sjávarbarinn’s main feature is an all-you- &) '+ of warm handmade products for women you’ll also find a good selection of Ice- ized decades ago – it has been serving can-eat buffet, filled with assorted fish &*() and children at the downtown store. landic music, books on art, accessories tel: 551-7722 people “ein með öllu” downtown since dishes and other creatures from the sea. (, + (- Check out the elf hats if you want to and international designer wear. Austurstræti open 17 til late 1935, making it the oldest fast-food '' . look different. www.indianmango.is place in the country. Ingólfsstræti Bankastræti Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur ) E^ooV@^c\ && ;a_‹iid\

9G>C@>C< * 6jhijgaVcYV" &' HVai=diZa&.&. &* &- 9^aadc '& yahid[Vc ') 7dhidc ', 7* () I]ZK^`^c\ )& @daVedgi^Â ]gVÂaZhi^c Pósthússtræti 2 Dg\Vc Laugavegur 30 Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 28b Bankastræti 5 Hafnarstræti 3 Tryggvagata 19 Hverfisgata 64A Hafnarstræti 1-3 An upscale restaurant with an adventur- The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- Ölstofan has been attracting a clientele At , the casual atmosphere, styl- By day, B5 is a chic little bistro with good The large tourist shop The Viking sells all A trip to the downtown indoor flea Although a little pricey for a take-away, ous menu. The restaurant’s staff will hap- This stylish two-floor bar and concert ven- tures moderately priced drinks, a dark of late twenties and up who come for ish interiors, low-volume music and food and a prime location on Laugavegur sorts of souvenirs and smart gift items to market Kolaportið is always a fun way charging around 1600 ISK for the main pily prepare special dishes for both chil- ue presents a diverse range of concerts and cosy mood and some pretty good a drink and stay for the company, since nice crowd create a laid-back vibe on for people watching. By night, B5 is one bring back home. The selection includes to spend a Saturday afternoon. Endless courses, the food is well worth that extra dren and vegetarians upon request. For by local and international acts at least music (especially when local favourite blasting DJs have been replaced by nice any given day, ideal for early drinks and of the most stylised bars in town, with postcards, outdoor clothing, teddy bears, stalls offering all kinds of second-hand spending once in a while. Serving typi- a light lunch downtown, certain dishes four times a week. The venue features DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The background music to go with the drink. chitchats. The comfy two-floor bar pro- a “whiskey room” resembling a bucca- maps, books, woollen sweaters and plas- goods, candy and even fermented shark. cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure from the starters menu can be ordered established bands and young and emerg- tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang Better show up early on weekends be- vides plenty of seats and recently started neer’s jail, and another room reminiscent tic Viking helmets as well as Viking stat- If ready to take the time, you can find chest for those with a penchant for spicy at a very reasonable price in the lounge ing musicians. It can accommodate 300 out there on school nights are joined by fore the regular clientele comes rushing serving great traditional Icelandic dishes of a high-class Manhattan bar. ues and shot glasses. some great bargains. Only open on food. There are also a few tables inside bar. people and has enough seats for weary legions of parka-clad students during in as its popularity makes it hard if im- to hungry regulars – try the ‘kjötsúpa’ weekends. for those who choose to dine in. concertgoers to rest between sets. Open weekends, creating a party atmosphere possible to find a table. (meat soup) and ‘plokkfiskur’ (fish and until way past late on weekends. that’s always fun. potato dish).

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Bankastræti', &( Ingólfsstræti &. ' CdccVW^i^ . H]Va^bVg (& @gdc`gdc (- =VcYeg_‹cV" Lækjargata (( Hafnarstræti 11 Austurstræti 4 )( '% Laugavegur 63b hVbWVcY^Â (+ , &+ (% Hverfisgata Lækjargata 2a Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, Shalimar prides itself on being the north- (. Laugavegur Located on the corner of Laugavegur Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, is ernmost Indian restaurant in the world. '* '. (* and Vitastígur, this hip clothing wonder- The Handknitting Association of Iceland’s one of the more popular junk food plac- The daily special, a sample of two dish- land sells trendy designer wear for both official store, Handprjónasambandið, sells es around, offering a large selection of es, goes for around 1000 ISK. But we sexes. Shoppers can purchase everything HEDII=>H/8^ciVbVc^ &&(% Skólavörðustígur wool products of uncompromising qual- take-out or dine-in subs, sandwiches and recommend the chicken tikka masala, &, )' here, from funky street wear and elegant ity. The store features pullover sweaters, burgers with a nice dash of the unique known to be highly addictive. Laugavegur 11, 101 Reykjavík '& '( dresses to limited-edition shoes and cardigans and other wool accessories. Nonni-sauce. If you have a late-night jewellery from major fashion labels such They also sell yarn and the association Cintamani stocks quality Icelandic outdoor- everything needed for your trip across the craving there’s no need to worry, Nonni Klapparstígur as Vivienne Westwood, Umbro, Cheap hosts knitting nights at Iðu Húsið is open longer than most other places. gear and travel equipment, guaranteed to country and beyond, and you can book an ') Monday and Marc by Marc Jacobs. keep the whole family nice and warm in adventure excursion on the spot. &- any type of weather. Here you’ll find almost

( 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij &% H_{kVgWVg^cc &% (' =[jghZb]a¨_V (. CV`i^6e^cc Tryggvagata Grandagarður 9 Skólavörðustígur 18 Bankastræti 14 - There’s a good reason why there’s always Located down by the old harbour, Sjá- Loosely translated as ‘Happy Smiling The designer shop The Naked Ape offers a queue in front of Bæjarins Bestu, no varbarinn offers plain and fresh fish, the Headwear’, the shop’s owners have an amazing variety of colourful street- matter the weather or time of day. Se- way Icelanders have been consuming designed whacky hats and headwear clothing, including hand-printed hooded lected the best hot-dog stand in Europe it for centuries, at a competitive price. '- since 1994 and stock a good selection sweatshirts, T-shirts and leggings. Inside by The Guardian – something locals real- Sjávarbarinn’s main feature is an all-you- &) '+ of warm handmade products for women you’ll also find a good selection of Ice- ized decades ago – it has been serving can-eat buffet, filled with assorted fish &*() and children at the downtown store. landic music, books on art, accessories people “ein með öllu” downtown since dishes and other creatures from the sea. (, + (- Check out the elf hats if you want to and international designer wear. Austurstræti 1935, making it the oldest fast-food '' . look different. place in the country. Ingólfsstræti Bankastræti Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur ) E^ooV@^c\ && ;a_‹iid\

9G>C@>C< * 6jhijgaVcYV" &' HVai=diZa&.&. &* &- 9^aadc '& yahid[Vc ') 7dhidc ', 7* () I]ZK^`^c\ )& @daVedgi^Â ]gVÂaZhi^c Pósthússtræti 2 Dg\Vc Laugavegur 30 Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 28b Bankastræti 5 Hafnarstræti 3 Tryggvagata 19 Hverfisgata 64A Hafnarstræti 1-3 An upscale restaurant with an adventur- The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- Ölstofan has been attracting a clientele At Boston, the casual atmosphere, styl- By day, B5 is a chic little bistro with good The large tourist shop The Viking sells all A trip to the downtown indoor flea Although a little pricey for a take-away, ous menu. The restaurant’s staff will hap- This stylish two-floor bar and concert ven- tures moderately priced drinks, a dark of late twenties and up who come for ish interiors, low-volume music and food and a prime location on Laugavegur sorts of souvenirs and smart gift items to market Kolaportið is always a fun way charging around 1600 ISK for the main pily prepare special dishes for both chil- ue presents a diverse range of concerts and cosy mood and some pretty good a drink and stay for the company, since nice crowd create a laid-back vibe on for people watching. By night, B5 is one bring back home. The selection includes to spend a Saturday afternoon. Endless courses, the food is well worth that extra dren and vegetarians upon request. For by local and international acts at least music (especially when local favourite blasting DJs have been replaced by nice any given day, ideal for early drinks and of the most stylised bars in town, with postcards, outdoor clothing, teddy bears, stalls offering all kinds of second-hand spending once in a while. Serving typi- a light lunch downtown, certain dishes four times a week. The venue features DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The background music to go with the drink. chitchats. The comfy two-floor bar pro- a “whiskey room” resembling a bucca- maps, books, woollen sweaters and plas- goods, candy and even fermented shark. cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure from the starters menu can be ordered established bands and young and emerg- tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang Better show up early on weekends be- vides plenty of seats and recently started neer’s jail, and another room reminiscent tic Viking helmets as well as Viking stat- If ready to take the time, you can find chest for those with a penchant for spicy at a very reasonable price in the lounge ing musicians. It can accommodate 300 out there on school nights are joined by fore the regular clientele comes rushing serving great traditional Icelandic dishes of a high-class Manhattan bar. ues and shot glasses. some great bargains. Only open on food. There are also a few tables inside bar. people and has enough seats for weary legions of parka-clad students during in as its popularity makes it hard if im- to hungry regulars – try the ‘kjötsúpa’ weekends. for those who choose to dine in. concertgoers to rest between sets. Open weekends, creating a party atmosphere possible to find a table. (meat soup) and ‘plokkfiskur’ (fish and until way past late on weekends. that’s always fun. potato dish).

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ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 950.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1150.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Reviews

Photos by GAS Valencia Tapas Bar Síam

Located on Vitastígur, (a side street off Laugavegur), Valencia Tapas Address: The Thai restaurant Síam in Hafnarfjörður has a long history. Al- Address: Bar opened its doors a little over a month ago. As the name im- Vitastígur 10a though several name and location changes make the trail hard to Dalshraun 11 plies, the place celebrates the beloved Spanish tapas culture and is 101 Reykjavík follow, it has evolved from the restaurant Bangkok which claimed 2200 Hafnarfjörður owned by a perky Spaniard, Diego Valencia, who not only manages to be the first Thai restaurant in the Nordic Countries, founded in Tel.: 555 4435 the place but serves as the chef as well. Diego is a man of many tal- Reviewed by 1985. ents and proudly told my companion and me that when the mood Steinunn Jakobsdóttir The restaurant has recently gone through a change of owner- Reviewed by feels right, he offers his guests live music as the singer of a notorious ship, and is now in the hands of the owners of the Mexican themed Sveinn Birkir Björnsson flamenco duo. Serrano fast-food chain, which incidentally happens to be my favou- At Valencia, there is no written menu. The daily specials are rite stop for a quick meal. Therefore, I was excited to see how they pre-prepared and the selection consists of around ten tapas classics would approach Thai culinary traditions. (two vegetarian and one meat dish cost 1700 ISK.) We grabbed a ta- For most Reykjavíkians, Síam faces a giant problem: its loca- ble upstairs and sampled a mix of six different dishes. The dancing tion. Situated in Reykjavík’s neighbouring town of Hafnafjörður, it is flames from the fireplace not only warmed our freezing hands but not somewhere you tend to drop in without making a trip out of it. created a pleasant atmosphere while all the colourful paper fans Obviously, the locals in Hafnarfjörður might reap the benefits, but I adorning the walls let our minds wander to the warmer South. am too egocentric to care. Our favourite was the Spanish omelette, a recipe that never Síam is somewhat cursed with the ‘tweener status. That is, it fails to please. With chunks of potatoes, onion and red peppers it lies somewhere between being ‘a place to eat’ and an actual res- was delicious, as was the Andalusian salad with salted cod, pota- taurant in many respects. The price falls somewhere between what toes, boiled eggs, onion and oranges. The salad was especially fresh, you would expect to pay for fast food, and what you would expect although it could have benefited from a little more fish. Mushrooms, to pay for a meal at a regular restaurant. There are waitresses roam- sautéed in lime-juice scored highly and the artichokes with olives, ing around taking orders and there is a wine-list, but the setting is basil and parmesan cheese more than satisfied. We later used the more like what you’d expect from you local video rental. Plastic bread served on the side to soak up all the flavourful oil left on the and cheap. It is not a pleasant dining area that invites you to sit for a plate and washed it down with our San Miguel. We found the pieces while and enjoy your company after finishing a meal. of chicken breasts in olive oil and garlic a bit boring though, and the The food, however, is good, and that is what we came for after tuna salad was sadly not very interesting. all. We sampled two different kinds of meat: traditional red curry; Valencia is best described as a cosy bar that offers light ap- and a course called ‘heavenly meat,’ prepared in soya and corian- petizers and is recommended for both relaxed evenings or as a der seeds, which gave it a very sweet and special taste. A surprising first stop before bar-hopping. If in the mood to sample some food course that is highly recommended. to accompany your drink and to share with your company, as is so I believe that if Síam paid more attention to its accommoda- popular in , the place is worth a try. Expect to get basic and tions, dining there would be a truly pleasant experience. But as it is, unpretentious tapas where the combinations are simple yet flavour- it falls just short, or, more accurately, somewhere in between pleas- some. ant and indifferent.

The National Theatre of Iceland An unforgettable performance

Ivanovby Anton Chekhov Direction and adaptation: Baltasar Kormákur See and hear more on www.leikhusid.is ÞJÓÐLEIKHÚSIÐ French film festival 11. - 24. JANUARY IN HÁSKÓLABÍÓ OPENING FILM: PERSEPOLIS

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Photo by Ívar Brynjólfsson

30 Years of Contemporary Art

The Living Art Museum, commonly known as Nýló, an overall clean-up. The museum will be trans- Giving Artists a Real Boost The Living Art Museum celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. For the formed into a laboratory where artists and schol- Nýló’s past exhibitions are as diverse as they are nu- past three decades the museum has been a centre ars will dedicate their time to compiling, filing and merous and range from provocative performances has been an important for contemporary art in Iceland. Emerging young documenting the collection and the archive. Try to and rampageous concerts to aggressive installa- artists have taken their first steps there, notable put all the puzzles together, so to speak. tions that have raised many eyebrows. “Legendary part of the art commu- international artists have exhibited and household “Historically, this is a very important project. things have happened at Nýló. This was the only names in the local art scene have put on innovative We know roughly what the collection holds but I’m place for progressive art, not only visual art but mu- nity since its foundation shows, many of which are seen as turning points in certain we will also discover plenty of surprises sic, theatre and poetry readings as well. Nýló was Icelandic contemporary art history and have made along the way,” Nína says. a meeting point for artists who wanted to create and was among the first Nýló an internationally acclaimed museum. The museum has been an important part of something different, and it still is,” says Nína. For the past 30 years, more than 2000 artists the art community since its foundation and was One of the aims has been to support emerg- non-profit art organisa- have been involved in the museum’s programme among the first non-profit art organisations in the ing artists and they want to take things even further and Nýló’s collection of art contains more than country. Established in 1978 by a group of artists in the future. “By finally storing the collection and tions in the country. 800 works donated by artists who have exhibited that felt official art institutions – the National Gal- the archive somewhere safe we can continue to over the years. These include Níels Hafstein, Ste- lery of Iceland in particular – didn’t appreciate focus on exhibitions. As of 2009, we want to have ingrímur Eyfjörð, Steina Vasulka, Dieter Roth and contemporary art, the goal was to focus on experi- fewer exhibitions per year and instead give the art- many more. This extensive collection is not only mental art and to open people’s minds to new ideas ists a boost by putting some funding into each pro- valuable in a monetary sense but as a significant and media. The founders were part of the famous duction and a possible artist fee. Nýló is supposed part of Iceland’s art history from the 60s onwards. SÚM-movement and wanted Nýló to be a fresh and to be a platform for artists who get a chance to pro- powerful platform for young artists. Their vision is duce grand shows they can later present abroad,” A Year of Cleaning still followed and working artists have always run Andrea explains. When I sit down with Nýló’s chairman Nína Mag- the museum. It is currently funded by the City of Nýló will be bursting with energy this year núsdóttir and board member Andrea Maack inside Reykjavík, the state and Glitnir Bank.. and the extensive programme features various hap- the museum’s current location on Laugavegur 26 Nína explains that “when Nýló was founded, penings. The research will not take place behind they explain that Nýló’s history has mostly been no one was really dealing with Icelandic contem- closed doors – instead, the building will be open preserved by word of mouth. Although there are porary art,” and Nýló soon became the only insti- to all. “Our work will be visible and everyone who many documents in storage, there is no complete tution that collected art from that period. “One of wants to take a look or share memories and ideas record of past exhibitions and the generation of our main goals in 2008 will be to honour this hard is more than welcome,” they say, excited about the artists that developed their art inside Nýló’s walls. work and put the collection in a safe place,” and vibrant year ahead and the many treasures they ex- They stress how important it is to preserve this his- they’ve made a contract with The National Gal- pect to find hidden in storage. tory, to save valuable art works and to make the lery, which will store the collection. “It’s a beautiful collection accessible to all those interested in Ice- thing, historically, to collaborate with the National For more info visit www.nylo.is landic contemporary art history. That is precisely Gallery, which today has a great understanding of the plan. this whole struggle,” she says. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir The 30th anniversary will be celebrated with

What´s on? www.getrvk.com Interview | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | B15

Earth’s final hour. Photo by GAS

Earth Waves Goodbye to GusGus

If anyone knows how to please their fans it’s the goodbye to the successful teamwork and what the she and a babysitter came along on tour, which “I had a blast and the electro maniacs in GusGus. The group’s catchy future holds for her as soloist. Urður tells me was no problem at all. “I find it quite beats and eclectic vibe have been a huge draw funny when I hear people say that the reason I’m feedback was great. I re- among clubbers of all nationalities for years and Flying Solo leaving GusGus is to focus on being a mother. I at the same time have made the band a notori- “I had a blast and the feedback was great. I really don’t find it an insult to me personally but rather ally couldn’t have been ous live act across the globe. When performing couldn’t have been more satisfied with the night,” an insult to women in general – this concept that on their home ground, at club NASA, things tend Urður says of her last GusGus show. Since its foun- you need to drop everything you are doing to be a more satisfied with the to be a little too hot for the crowd to handle and dation in 1995, GusGus’s line-up has scaled down parent. I, at least, don’t see it that way. I’m a good when the band played the packed venue on De- a great deal and when Urður came to the rescue mother and it hasn’t stopped me from doing the night,” Urður says of her cember 29 last year, it was no exception. she entered a new band. Several members had left same things as before she was born.” With one club hit after another the atmo- but she injected a lot of energy into the band with Urður says she has no clear picture of how last GusGus show. sphere soon became aggressive to say the least. her unique voice and vivid stage presence and things will evolve in terms of her solo career and Total mayhem in fact. Fights broke out between has released two hyped records with the seem- the musical direction in which she is moving, but a few intoxicated “fans” but the more peaceful ingly immortal party-troop. So why leave now? admits that she is influenced by the dance scene and appreciative masses couldn’t have cared less “For me and my music career it’s a next step. that has been such a big part of her life. “The about the drunken’ party-poopers and danced It’s like moving away from home and now I want songs I’ve written up until now are both soothing until their feet couldn’t carry them anymore. The to try to create something on my own. Our col- melodies and danceable tunes. The album will sweaty crowd later rushed outside at the crack of laboration had come to an end and I’m leaving probably be house oriented but without as much dawn and left the floor at NASA resembling a post- on good terms. [Biggi and President Bongo] will techno as Biggi produces. I want to experiment combat scene. continue to do their music and we will continue to with instruments and make an album people can GusGus members were in the mood to party. be friends and love each other, forever.” play at home anytime of the week, not just as a This was the last show of a successful Forever tour, The past years have seen extensive touring warm up before partying.” (to support the band’s latest release) and they and around the world. “That’s probably what I’ll miss By now, Kría is getting tired of me interrupt- their followers were to say a proper goodbye to the most because we put on super live shows to- ing their lunch-time and demands some more their vocalist Earth (Urður Hákonardóttir), a key gether. In my view, [GusGus] is the best live band attention from her Mum, so I conclude by asking member of the family for the past seven years. there is,” she says, and plenty of concertgoers Urður how she sees the next months, free from Urður has left GusGus and plans to pursue a solo would easily agree. The concerts are more like touring and tackling crazy crowds at NASA and career, leaving only two of the founding members, happenings; visually engaging and always inter- beyond. “What I know is that this will be a great President Bongo and Biggi Veira, to keep the torch esting to witness. “We’ve played countries that I year! I’ll put the emphasis on my album, which I burning. would have been unlikely to visit otherwise, like plan to finish in 2008. Then we’ll just see what hap- A few days into the New Year, I sit down with Singapore, Russia, Turkey, Croatia, Montenegro pens”. Urður at a much quieter location, the coffeehouse and the Middle East. To get the chance to travel 10 Dropar. In between spoon-feeding her one- and play in front of a huge audience is a privi- Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir and-a-half-year-old daughter Kría with an appetis- lege.” ing meat-soup, she discusses how it feels to say Once Urður’s daughter Kría was old enough,

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Interview | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 17

Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson Top of the Charts “We have gotten so much notice now that it is a This year, Skátar and I Adapt came dead even for the Grapevine Album of the Year shame we broke up really. But we don’t want to keep award. A Grapevine reporter sat down it going, just to keep it going.” with the frontman from each band to quiz them about their award-winning records, So, Chainlike Burden topped our list for al- I Adapt was always a band that fed off playing breaking up, and the pros and cons of bum of the year, joined by Skátar’s The Ghost live. How will you cope with playing only in a of Bollocks to Come. This is the first I Adapt dingy practice space instead of playing live? small labels. album to receive considerable notice from the The starting point for this band, and for me espe- Icelandic media [it finished high on most oth- cially, was always that attending an I Adapt show er year-end lists also.] Did you expect this? should be a totally different experience from going I didn’t really give it much thought. As a musician, to any other show. That was a very selfish idea as I don’t pay much attention to such lists; I usually well, because I wanted to be in the position to be don’t even bother to read them. But yes, I did ex- able to manipulate everything and bring something pect that if anyone really listened to an I Adapt new and fresh. To tell you the truth, I am starting to record, it would make the cut with some left-field regret that already, not to have that on the horizon. scribes, but I didn’t really expect it to break top five, But we don’t want to have to drag the horse across or even top ten, especially with the general public. the finish line. We could probably make it look OK It was placed very highly in reader surveys and in- forever, but we won’t settle for anything less than ternet polls for example. being the best live band out there. When the foun- Do you know how much it sold? dation for that was no longer there… No, that’s in the hands of our label. I don’t think it But is there still going to be one last show? sold very well. It sold well in relation to the num- Yes, February 2 we will play one last show. That is ber of copies we pressed, but I don’t think it sold going to be an all-ages show in a small auditorium very well compared with many other albums. But it somewhere, a low profile show, just for the die- might pick up after all this publicity. hards who have supported us for a long time. It is The label you signed to, Mamma Þín Records, going to be a real I Adapt show where everything is a small indie label, with little money to goes crazy. spend on promotion compared with many What was the idea behind founding the band other labels. Do you think people even know in the beginning? this record is out there? We just wanted to create something totally new. No, I’ve talked to a lot of people, people who go to We had much more of a plan back then. We were the University with me, and so on, who don’t even very excited, and kind of arrogant. We thought al- know the record is out there. The fans who follow most everything sucked, not necessarily musically, the band and lurk around on our Myspace.com site but we thought most bands were boring live. We know about it. That’s where we promote it, and on thought it was boring to go to maybe one hundred message boards and internet forums. But that es- shows a year, and nobody said anything, unless capes a lot of people. It seems that everyone starts perhaps the singer was drunk. Then he would ask if by going to Skífan [record store], and if a record is everyone was having a good time or yell “Tuborg!” not available there, they might possibly look for it or “Satan!” in other record stores. We didn’t distribute to Skí- Back then, we were very idealistic and ob- fan, so… noxious. All our lyrics were very simple, they were Just before the end of the year, news filtered always about some current issue, and we would out that the band had broken up. Why now, explain that before playing a song. We truly be- when the band had just started to reach public lieved that there should be no boundary between awareness? the band and the audience. We wanted to create a Yeah, well, you know. I’ve asked myself that same totally new live environment here in Iceland, and I question many times as well. But I think it would am certain that we did and that is why we garnered be even worse to be in a band with four people such a loyal following. That was always the plan. who are not on the same page. The idea behind We had such an attitude for the first four years as breaking up now, rather than later, was to maintain a band that we never played in a bar. If everybody the integrity of the band. People who know us as was not going to get in, we refused to play. When a band know that we are solid guys who deliver we started to write more complex music however, the goods every time we play live. We wanted to the younger kids turned away from us, while we break it up before the untrained ear would start to started to appeal more to older listeners, so we notice that the band was lacking harmony in so started to play in bars more. many different things off the stage. The reason we Do you think that decision helped you gain broke up was not musical differences or that we more attention? didn’t get along, it was everything else. We didn’t I think so, yes. There are so many music journalists want that to be seen or heard on stage. When you who would never go to an all-ages show. It is not see a band play where there is not total unity with necessarily snobbery, but the preference to be in everything – the sound, the equipment, rehearsals, a situation where they are allowed to have a drink everything – you notice it, you hear it. And then you and maybe a smoke. Those people didn’t really think ‘dudes, why don’t you just give it up, or form start to listen to us until late in our career, so I think a new band or something?’ But, if we think of this that decision helped us draw more attention to the band as a fellowship, this fellowship is not going band. We have gotten so much notice now that it any further, at least not at this time. is a shame we broke up really. But we don’t want So what’s next? to keep it going, just to keep it going. We are just in I have no idea. I want to be in a prolific band where such different places in our lives right now. I wish I don’t need to be the vitamin injection. I’ve been we could keep it going, but the fellowship needs to doing this since I was 13, and I’ll be 30 in a month, be stronger. It is not enough to agree that it is fun so I’m even ready to be not in a band, or if I am in a to play live and practice. When you have been in band, to be a low-level player with no expectations a band for seven years and after several U.S. and or goals other than playing. [Bass player] Addi is European tours, you need more. And after touring playing with Gavin Portland, a band that is really the U.S. the last time, where we played with the taking off, so the future looks bright for him. [Drum- best hardcore bands in the business, we only com- mer] Elli has always got some kind of art projects pare ourselves to those guys; we are not going to going, making short films and videos. I have a feel- compare ourselves to some band that just won the ing that [guitar player] Ingi and I might end up do- Battle of the Bands. The measuring stick is so much ing something together, but not in a fully-formed higher. We just want to be convincing as a band, band that takes to the streets to kick ass. We have and if we are not convincing, we might as well stop. written a lot of stuff after Chainlike Burden came This is what killed the band maybe. The ambition. out. That album is actually very old [release was We are all very ambitious, but maybe that ambition repeatedly delayed]. Ingi and I have been throwing is not always directed towards the same goal. riffs and ideas back and forth, and that stuff is just Photo by GAS so good, that we, as hobby musicians, want to play Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson it, just the two of us. 18 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Reviews

Bathed in a purplish glow, the Benny Crespo’s tals fittingly took the backseat. Gang foursome opened up the first seated rock Though the openings and endings tended to concert in recent memory, with a series of bleeps be less than smooth, the build-ups sometimes pre- and blurps. It was the epitome of BCG’s appeal in dictable, and certainly their stage-presence less the form of an overture; a basic rock outfit with than thrilling, the Gang continually managed to light psychedelic tendencies. However, celebrat- build steadily to explosive climaxes and moments ing the release of their debut album, self-titled, of surprising clarity in their songs. Despite the fog at Tjarnarbíó, the Gang did little else throughout machines and the impressive light show, however, the course of the night to elevate themselves to the gig felt more like a band practice than a con- anything above an image of distinct normalcy. On cert. With clumsy, difficult transitions, along with stage, they were polite, shy, and clearly a bit ner- elongated tuning pauses between each song, the vous. After a hiatus of nearly a year, perhaps they band seemed clearly out of practice, and they deserved to be. moved forward together in a rusty state. They dove into their first number. Heavy Finishing with a heap of unfocused but jar- bass lines and an even heavier, slightly overpow- ring musical meditations, the band was burning ering drum input chaotically climaxed into an out in a burst of misdirected power. Helgi Rúnar almost transcendent medley of sound. The audi- and Lovísa’s vocals suggested a delicate edge ence of friends and fans cheered enthusiastically, to the band’s foundation that was continually even shouting and stomping with excitement. left uncultivated by the unrelenting drums and In the interval between songs, somewhere heavy bass. Though intended and successfully between tuning their instruments and waiting for executed as little more than a showcase of their Photo by GAS everyone else to tune theirs, singer Helgi Rúnar recent release, the concert did lack a certain pol- and Lovísa awkwardly attempted one-sided small ish, a certain je ne sais quoi. Whether it was focus, talk with the audience. “Has everyone bought ambition, or practice that they lacked, the band’s their Christmas presents yet?” asked Lovísa. Then strengths were as visible as their weaknesses. Psychedelic Normalcy after a painful pause, she breathed, “I haven’t.” With time and a little more of any of the aforemen- From somewhere in the audience I heard a lonely tioned ingredients, the former will surely prevail. chuckle. Who: Where: When: The emphasis on emotional, though not del- Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Benny Crespo’s Gang Tjarnarbíó December 19, 2007 icate, vocals on their next number, Shine, gave the song singularity in a pool of dense instrumental cogitation. Lovísa’s sweet but un-optimistic coo- ing had a similarly arresting effect on Come Here, where her band-mates’ thickly woven instrumen-

Excitement filled the air inside The Reykjavík yet emotional and convincing as the confused City Theatre minutes before the premiere of Jesus betrayer, which suited this hard-rock version per- Christ Superstar. There is no mystery to the plot in fectly. Krummi’s vocal delivery was surprising and Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s famous rock- showed a totally new side of him as a singer. He opera but Vesturport’s take on the classic has made is usually the rough guy but here he easily hit the many old fans curious, especially since director high notes and sang the slower ballads just fine. Björn Hlynur decided to cast two local rockers in Between songs though, it felt as he didn’t really the leading roles. Krummi, best known for fronting know what he was supposed to do, and lacked the the rock monsters Mínus, takes on the role of Jesus skills to deliver the feeling of sympathy in dramatic and Brain Police’s singer Jenni plays Judas. These scenes. are very challenging parts - to sing and act - and I was impressed with Lára Sveinsdóttir who the theatre audience very distinct from their usual sang her role as Mary Magdalene beautifully. Ing- crowd, something that must be nerve-wrecking for var E. Sigurðsson stood out as Pontius Pilate and two first time actors. proved that he is not only a terrific actor but a great Björn Hlynur succeeds in presenting some- singer. Magnús Jónsson as Caiaphas and Bergur Þór thing different, although his version does not en- Ingólfsson as the obese King Herod (who received tirely escape clichés. He moves far away from any a well-deserved applause and laughter), also de- hippy or pop-oriented atmosphere of the original serve compliments. and offers the audience leather pants and tattoos, That being sad, what the production lacked BBQs and stewardesses while Pontius Pilate is in acting skills it made up for in volume. It was dressed in a speedo. I have to say though that some rather the powerful singing and heavy instrumen- midi-concerts.pdf 4/11/07 10:55:30 AM Krummi from Mínus and Jenni from Brain Police as Jesus and Judas parts left me a bit confused. tals that carried the show from start to finish and To modernise the piece for a generation of made it entertaining to watch. The music was full rock-enthusiasts, Björn Hlynur got Daði Birgisson of attitude and smart details and the arrangements and Krummi’s band-mates, Bjössi and Bjarni, to both interesting and aggressive. This version of the Jesus Christ Rockstar orchestrate the music. That was his best move. The classic opera is pure rock, just as intended. show started with a bang and the band’s dynami- cal sound blasted loudly for the whole two hours. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Who: Where: When: It was too bad the five-piece was hidden in a pit Jesus Christ Superstar Reykjavík City Theatre December 28, 2007 infront of the stage. When things got a bit dull on- stage it would have been nice to watch the action beneath. Jenni delivered his part as Judas well. His singing was powerful and his raw sound a good contrast to Krummi’s softer voice. He was angry

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CD CD CD

Ein í leyni Cycles Síðasta vetrardag Benni Hemm Hemm Einar Scheving Síðan skein sól

Benni Hemm Hemm’s latest EP release Ein í leyni, recognises the in- Einar Scheving is a respected member of the relatively small com- The career of pop quintet Síðan Skein Sól spans twenty years. They finite of the phrase ‘short and sweet.’ Indulging instrumentally munity of Icelandic jazz musicians. As a drummer, he has played ruled as kings of the Icelandic pop music in the nineties, and have in the simplicity he has long employed in his lyrics, Benni manages on over 100 albums, although Cycles is his first as a bandleader. For a catalogue of hits that regularly grace the radio waves. Síðasta Ve- a combination of melancholy and optimism within a strikingly lucid this album, he has assembled an all-star squad of musicians to join trardag is a live recording celebrating the band’s 20th anniversary. record. He has perhaps taken the queue from his friend and col- him with Eyþór Gunnarsson (piano), Skúli Sverrisson (bass), and 18 songs in all, this CD includes most of the band’s many hits, many laborator Jens Lekman in this regard, even making an acoustic ver- Óskar Guðjónsson (tenor sax). Although drums have been Schev- of them performed with alternative stripped down acoustic arrange- sion of the song Hól á hey hóla, from Kajak in which they both sing ing’s forte, he has turned his attention more towards compositions ments, with different instrumentation for added effects. The results (and whistle.) It is that song as well as Jag Tyckte Hon Sa Lönnlöv, in as his career advances, earning rave reviews for his work. This al- are hit and miss. The strings definitely add to Ég stend á skýi, while which Lekman sings Maple Leaves in Swedish along with some Big bum is a fine testimony to Einar’s strong compositional abilities. He the lounge feel of Halló, ég elska þig is a step backwards. For long- Band reinforcement and vocal support by Benni, that are especially has a deft touch for sparsity whereby each tone is given space to time fans of Síðan Skein Sól, this is probably a good addition to the well arranged. Ultimately the distinct Benni Hemm Hemm sound is breath. This is an album that rewards careful, repeated listening, collection, since the 2-CD package also contains a DVD recording only positively reinforced by the acoustic strip, allowing him to fully where the intricate puzzle of delicate tones unfolds with more clar- of the concert, but others are probably better off picking up some of revel in the simplicity that is his ultimate strength. VÞ ity each time. Skúli Sverrisson’s mastery of the bass is especially the band’s earlier studio albums. SBB enjoyable. SBB

CD CD CD

Behold Not to Lead nor to Follow Ef væri ég … Steini Gjöll Regína Ósk

Behold is the first release from pop quartet Steini, which apparently Extreme electronica is a corner of the musical universe that often With the help of Karl Olgeir, who co-wrote all the songs and lyr- gets its name from the ‘romantic loser’ Steini, who sings and plays gets little attention. The conceptual electronic band Gjöll is the duo ics on the record, Regína Ósk has released her third solo album guitar. The music is a rather unobtrusive mix of simple acoustic gui- of Sigurður Harðarson, better known for his work with the punk in three years. The record is a mixed-result. First off, it could be tar-pop, with a nostalgic glee. It is not terribly original, or engaging, band Dys, and the grindcore band Forgarður Helvítis; and Jóhann worse. Olgeir, who also managed all arrangements and recordings, but not exactly boring either. Mostly it just falls nicely into the back- Eiríksson, member of the musical projects Reptilicus and Product has made a commercial record that is solid and clean, if at times drop to whatever else you are doing so you hardly notice it at all. 8. This is their second album, combining anarchistic poetry and ex- flat. Though indulgent and uninspired, the lyrics are not deplorable The songs Girl I Used to Know and Behold are positive highlights. tremely dark and moody ambience through pulsating reverbs and or entirely mindless. Samastað and Bítlalag are perhaps the most Steini (the band member) has a passable singing voice, but the ter- heavy use of voice effects. For people interested in experimental successful tracks, if only because the light (very light) Latin influ- rible cover design adds little value. SBB electronica or curious to learn more about it, this is worth check- ence sets its melody apart from the other 11 songs. Yet, despite all ing out. Everyone else is probably better off spending their money the effort that was surely put in on all ends to make this shiny new elsewhere. SBB disc, it ultimately manages to be almost entirely uncharming and unstimulating. VÞ

This exciting new multimedia exhibition tells the story from an island’s dramatic birth from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean through its forty year history to the current day – and beyond, glimpsing the future 120 years hence.

The exhibition explains the Government’s decision to submit an application to UNESCO to designate Surtsey a World Heritage Site.

SURTSEY – GENESIS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE

The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11am and 5pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Hverfi sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik The admission fee grants entry to all exhibitions at the Culture House. Adults ISK 300. Senior citizens ISK 200. Telephone 545 1400 www.thjodmenning.is Students ISK 200. Free entry for children 16 years of age or younger. Admission is free on Wednesdays. 20 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Article

Reykjavík pop band Hraun delivered the goods for the BBC World Service. The unanimous decision was that all those instruments on stage had little to do with the performance

Battle of the Lands

The once-popular battle of the bands competi- singers and heavy metal to achieve the sort of re- What the Judges Said: How can you compare tion has been on the wane for several years now, sult that could only be considered credible in a Talvin Singh - Producer, DJ, instrumentalist and probably because of the ubiquity of such contests very remote place, were perhaps the weakest act. Mercury Music Prize winner (1998) a solo singer, albeit an and the increasing ease of access to live music Even the schoolgirls looked more like the dinner “I really enjoyed it, it’s a wonderful piece of music through festivals and tours, but 2007 saw the for- lady than Britney Spears and their chosen song and I’d love to hear it in a pair of headphones in admirably talented one, mat stage something of a revival to the benefit of was, to be blunt, lacking in every way. But thank- a really chilled place. I found it very deceiving be- one Icelandic band in particular. fully Hraun’s song was firmly located at the other cause visually they had all these instruments on who has a CD-R instead A large part of BBC’s World Service program- end of the scale of credibility. stage so what you’re seeing doesn’t really match ming focuses on global culture, from Japanese Hraun submitted a vocal-based compo- what you’re hearing – that’s the only thing that of a live band, to a group ladyboys to new music, and it’s the latter subject sition, Ástarsaga úr fjöllunum, which tells the threw me off. Other than that, I thought that aes- that they were interested in when Auntie (as the sorry tale of a troll who falls in love but discovers thetically it was a really nice piece of music with of Kenyan multi-instru- BBC is affectionately known in ; it’s old the object of his affections has turned to stone. beautiful harmonies. The voice is the ultimate in- and friendly) asked for the best new bands from The song’s airy, harmonised vocals and sparse, strument, every instrument imitates the voice, but mentalists (Yunasi) or a around the world to submit one track for a com- plucked-guitar accompaniment create a brilliant with so many instruments on stage it was deceiv- petition branded as the Next Big Thing. The judg- piece of understated music making and, when lis- ing, the drummer looked a bit redundant. French art-school electro ing panel, all well known in the music world and tening to the recorded version, you could easily very successful in their own right, then whittled understand why judges such as Talvin Singh and Nile Rodgers - Bassist and co-founder of seminal outfit (Maya McCallum) the piles of entries down to just five finalists from William Orbit praised the band. New York disco/funk band Chic (Le Freak etc) five very different corners of the planet. Whilst it’s However, there was a sting in the tail in the “Can I see it in the charts? Maybe in a different on the basis of one song? debatable if the World Service has enough clout form of a large dose of irony when it came to judg- era because in my head I think in terms of quality to boost a band’s profile in the same way that ing the final result after all the bands had played of music but when you ask me if it could be in wretched programs like The X Factor, which can their one song several times for the benefit of the the charts I have to visualise what the charts are essentially rig the pop charts by acting as king cameras and microphones. As previously men- today and it’s a very different environment. Maybe maker to pretty much any idiot they choose, the tioned, it was difficult to see how five acts that play somebody can have a situation, the perfect storm, competition was still a credible exercise thanks to in five entirely different styles could be compared and it’s the right thing at the right time with the the high standing of the judges and brilliant per- to each other and Hraun suffered the most from right band. Compositionally it absolutely could be formances from the likes of Iceland’s Hraun, one this problem. Because the final was being filmed, but in today’s world I’m not sure if it could be, it’s of the bands chosen to play their song at the world all the entries had to give the impression that the not clear to me how one would promote that type finals in London. one song they played was part of a longer set per- of song. If you had it next to Rihanna’s Umbrella… The BBC’s Maida Vale studios, located in formed for the benefit of the judges and audience. But it’s a terrific composition, harmonically it’s leafy North London, are something of a national So, when Hraun strode onto stage clutching their wonderful, the only problem is that in this setting treasure to Brits, with the run-down buildings instruments and drumsticks to play the song that the visual didn’t sync with what I was hearing and hosting the legendary John Peel sessions for years got them through to the final, it was purely for I understand that if you’re a band then you’re used as well as performances from just about every ma- show (apart from Svavar Knútur’s acoustic guitar) to performing the song every night and holding jor band and musician to have ruffled the charts and there was no chance to show the musical abil- your instruments, you don’t put your instruments in the last four decades. With this in mind, to play ity that the band demonstrated so well two days down to sing – I get that – it’s just weird if you don’t there is a privilege rarely bestowed upon a band previously at a warm-up gig in London’s Old Street tell me that’s what you’re going to do.” which hasn’t graced the cover of a magazine or district. The band’s keyboard player looked a bit received flattering reviews in the national press lost as his power cable lay unattached on the floor, Tahita Bulmer. - New Young Pony Club lead vo- and, frankly, the first finalist, the United Arab the drummer didn’t touch his kit at all and the rest calist Emirates’ Jeremie Johnson, looked quite lonely as of the band, flute player and all, just sang, albeit “I really enjoyed it. In terms of what we’re looking a solo artist on the substantial stage (located deep beautifully. It was frustrating that Hraun weren’t for, the band is very diverse and it reminds me of within the bowels of the facility) but was mildly given the opportunity to play to the maximum of the band collective stuff like Broken Social Scene. impressive when his backing tape kicked in. The their ability but, then again, they might not have I think they’d fit in really well with that kind of a said backing tape sounded like it was made by even got to the final had they submitted a different scene. They could be massive on the College cir- remixing Queen, Celine Dion and Phil Spector song. They’d made their bed and now they had to cuit, definitely – you need a bit of introspective and proved to be just one of the oddities of a con- sleep in it. music to get over the emotional times in your life! test that seemed to have a little too much focus The Kenyan entry, Yunasi, were worthy win- I also think it’s great when people sing in their re- on what the end result might sound and look like ners in that they demonstrated a combination gional languages and dialects, it’s got to open the when broadcast rather than being a talent compe- of energy, epic percussion skills and a universal eyes of Westerners, American and English people tition based purely on musical ability. appeal thanks to their use of several languages in particular, who are used to having everything How can you compare a solo singer, albeit and musical styles. Their winning song may have sung in their mother tongue, so it’s great to hear. an admirably talented one, who has a CD-R in- sounded like a world music cynic’s worst night- Also, in terms of how it makes you feel and how stead of a live band, to a group of Kenyan multi- mare but to the open-minded they beat all other you react to songs; it is different hearing Mozart instrumentalists (Yunasi) or a French art-school entries, bar Hraun, hands down. Perhaps if the sung in German and opera sung in Italian, they electro outfit (Maya McCallum) on the basis of Icelanders had entered a different song in the have a different emotional resonance.” one song? I was certainly none the wiser as to who competition then the day would have taken a dif- would be the next big thing on the basis of what ferent course – they’d either have won or they’d Text by Ben H. Murray the bands performed that afternoon, despite my have been sitting at home listening to the final on predilection towards Icelandic music. The fifth the radio. band in the final, a mass of Serbians called Vrelo who combined a gang of Lolita-esque schoolgirl Review | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 21

Recent Books About Iceland

Seven Books Mysteriously Missing from the The Iceland Connection Cultures of the World: Iceland Memoirs of an Icelandic Bookworm Icelandic Library System By D. Edward Bradley By Jonathan Wilcox and Zawiah Abdul Latif By Jóna E. Hammer I often hear of books that I want to look at because (Tarbutton Press, 2006) (Marshall Cavendish, 2007) (Xlibris, 2006) they are relevant to issues in Iceland today. Usu- ally, a book like this is too expensive to buy just I found this novel at Eymundsson. The National Originally published in 1996, this hardcover picto- Born in Akureyri in 1943, Jóna Hammer went to to read once or skim. Here is a short list of such ti- Library also has a copy, or it can be ordered from rial reference book was substantially updated and college in and has spent her adult tles. All deal with important issues where Iceland Amazon or from the publisher. It is the third vol- reissued in 2007. At first, it appealed to me because life teaching university students in the United could surely benefit from outside perspectives. ume of a trilogy, which follows a young British stu- of its low price (US$27.95 from Amazon), its combi- States. Her book, which I found on sale at Ey- dent from his entry to boarding school in the first nation of thorough text and candid photos, and its mundsson, has an unusual format: sections of – The high cost of free parking, by Donald C. years of World War II through young adulthood in focus on everyday life in Iceland. Although part of memoir alternate with Icelandic folktales that she Shoup (2005). Parking in Reykjavík has become the 1950s. This volume is principally about his girl a series pitched to school libraries and teenagers, has translated into English. The memoirs describe harder and harder. It looks like this author has troubles, which intensify after a university-spon- the language in the book is advanced, and adults her childhood in Akureyri: family, school, acting, thought hard about the economic incentives in- sored field “expedition” to Iceland. Most of the wouldn’t feel strange receiving it as a gift. The first reading, friendships, and summers on a farm. The volved. novel’s action takes place in Britain and Canada. author teaches Old English at the University of folktales are very nicely selected, well translated, – Supermarket wars: the future of global food The author is a British-Canadian physicist who Iowa. The second author appears to work for the and helpfully introduced. retailing, by Andrew Seth and Geoffrey Randall turned to novel writing after his retirement from publisher, and has also written titles on Lebanon, From the first page, Hammer is an amusing, (2005). Supermarkets are so important to Icelan- academia. He is a contemporary of the main char- Lithuania, and Sudan. It is always fascinating to see cheery, and irreverent companion. For example, dic life and politics that I’ve been thinking I’d like acter and there are autobiographical threads in what image of Iceland gets presented to the world I liked her story of how she had to read Halldór to learn more about the whole industry. the novel. in such books. Laxness on the sly, as his books were forbidden – Urban multi-culture in : identity The novel has a soap-opera quality to it, Unfortunately, this book is uneven. It has as dangerously radical in her childhood home. I formation among immigrant youth, by Mette with a succession of textbook romances and be- good parts, but does not fully live up to its promise. enjoy memoirs, so I’d be pleased to see Hammer Andersson (2005). I chose this title more or less at trayals. The writing is a bit wooden, and there Though some photos are new, many are noticeably expand and rewrite the recollections in this book. random from among the many books on the im- are some slightly forced plot turns (one charac- out of date. The book makes plenty of accurate I’d gladly hear more detail about her mother, her migrant experience in mainland Scandinavia that ter is introduced when his plane crash-lands in observations about Icelandic society, but there friend Ranka, and her summers at Sandvík, and aren’t available here. the North Atlantic right next to the transatlantic are also a lot of bloopers. So, for example, we are I’d like to learn about her British father and her – Rebuilding inner city airports, by Prianka ocean liner carrying two of the other characters). told that all of Iceland’s vegetable production is adjustment to life in America. An expanded ver- N. Seneviratne (1996). Reykjavík is not alone in A mystery that drives the plot through the first six in greenhouses, that “it is unusual to find a dark- sion could benefit from a little more active editing. struggling with the question of what to do with chapters is simply dropped and left unresolved. haired Icelander,” that “whaling traditionally occu- Shorter sentences and fewer parentheses, semico- a downtown airport built at a time when the city While I can understand why no mainstream pub- pied a significant part of Iceland’s economy,” that lons and asides wouldn’t have to disturb the exu- was much smaller. lisher published this book, what made it readable orcas are more commonly sighted around Iceland berance of the writing. – A place in the sun: Shetland and oil, by for me was the author’s evident sincerity, and also than minke whales, and that all Icelanders “use the Hammer published this book through Jonathan Wills (1991). With Iceland planning to his success in creating a certain amount of genu- same form of address in both formal and informal Xlibris, one of several new American self-publish- explore for oil in the seas to the northeast of the ine suspense. I’d say it’s suitable for light vacation circumstances.” Other statements are years out of ing services which allow writers to get their work island, it would be good to listen to a balance of reading. The climactic event in the story takes date, such as that Icelandic kids start learning Dan- out to readers without a huge initial investment. voices about oil’s effect on our almost-next-door place in northern Iceland, more specifically just ish two years before they learn English, that “any The first such book I read was Douglas Wells’ su- neighbour, Shetland. outside of Dalvík, but the novel has somewhat less foreigner who adopts Icelandic citizenship also has per memoir of jump-starting the tourist industry – Estonia: independence and European in- to do with Iceland than the title suggests. to adopt a suitable patronymic,” and that Iceland on the Estonian islands in the early 1990s, and tegration, by David Smith (2002). Estonia, an- has five universities, all of which are state-funded since then I have really been impressed at the other peripheral Nordic country with an economy and tuition-free. amount of creativity that this new publish-on-de- vaguely similar in size to Iceland’s, pegged its cur- And I do think there could have been fewer mand business model has unleashed. Jóna Ham- rency to the Euro some years before formally join- spelling errors: we find “Jökulsarion,” “Reykjahlio,” mer perhaps thought of her book rather casually, ing the European Union. I’m not saying we should and the hypercorrect “Vestmannæyjar,” as well as as amusement for her friends and daughter. But necessarily do this too, but I’d like to know more multiple transcriptions for Þ and Ð, which is no lon- she has created something that many others can about why it worked (or didn’t work) for the Es- ger acceptable in the Unicode age. In fairness, it is enjoy. I hope she finds time to write more in the tonians. hard for a single author to write such a reference future. – A farewell to Greenland’s wildlife, by Kjeld book without making mistakes, but it is usually Hansen (2002). This book shows how our neigh- possible to catch most of them with good editing Text by Ian Watson bours, the Greenlanders, are caught in their very and proofreading. It would also have been appro- own, and somewhat different, marine harvesting priate if the blond girl on the inside cover photo debates. had posed with an Icelandic sheepdog rather than a Blenheim spaniel. There are worse books to give as souvenir gifts to people who have visited you in Iceland. But even for the price, it would have been nice to see a little more work put into this one. 22 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Article

A Different Kind of Country Music

Jonah Flicker came to Reykjavík for the 2007 Ice- fect song (or perfect moment with absolutely no whipping a line against a flagpole in the parking Tom Waits’ ‘16 Shells From land Airwaves festival. After a long weekend of sound at all) would pop up at just the right mo- lot. Ping… ping… ping… A perfect, eerie sound- too much booze and music and too little sleep, he ment, either adding solemnity to or invigorating track for my solitary visit to this lonely cathe- a 30.6’ greeted my ears as set out to see the rest of the country. an already majestic moment. Such is the power dral. of music. I got back in the car. His Five nights of will wear you Suspicious Minds in Vík down, mentally and physically. Don’t get me Radio Somewhere After a few other stops at some of the Golden gruff voice and junkyard wrong; as an avid music fan and critic who tends The trip began after a final night of debauchery Circle’s natural wonders, I was itching to get on to avoid the festival circuit, Airwaves stands out with other visiting writers at a family farmhouse the road to see the country beyond the vicinity of arrangement seemed a as manageable, engaging, unpredictable, and a near Laugarvatn, about an hour and a half out- the capital. After reaching the Ring Road, I drove whole lot of fun. But five consecutive nights of side Reykjavik. I awoke to a morning of sporadic though various suburban areas, including Hella perfect fit as I passed tow- live music, hopping from venue to venue, writ- sunshine, very welcome after the previous day’s and Hvolsvöllur, before entering a relatively un- ing show reviews at 2am, and drinking ‘til dawn incessantly pounding sheets of rain. After a inhabited stretch of road that passed through ering cliffs with small wa- takes its toll. This year, however, I was prepared, morning spent cleaning up our drunken mess lovely green farmland dotted with the occasion- and had already planned the perfect post-Air- and trying to get the smell of pan-fried pork out al cluster of houses. terfalls blown so hard by waves come-down. of my hair, I hit the road for my first destinations, My first stop on this leg of my trip was at Sel- Instead of hopping on a plane and dealing Geysir and Gullfoss. Icelandic talk radio was this jalandsfoss, one of Iceland’s most famous water- the wind that their water with the seven-hour time difference between LA morning’s soundtrack. By the end of my trip, you falls. What it lacked in width and power, it made and Reykjavik on top of a raging hangover and would have thought that I could speak Icelan- up for in height and background scenery. A sign defied the laws of gravity a worsening cold, I climbed in a Ford Explorer dic, or at least understand it, based on the many alerted me to the fact that it was possible to walk and drove around Iceland’s Ring Road. Over the hours I spent listening to chatter on the FM dial. behind the fall, but after yesterday’s non-stop and launched skyward. course of four nights and five days, I witnessed But alas, that was not to be. rain, I wasn’t in the mood to get wet and passed some of the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever Regardless, the blend of sunshine and sud- up this opportunity. I have to admit that I regret seen. And it was made all the better by the fact den rainsqualls that morning resulted in some of it now, as the view from the other side of the falls that I was travelling in Iceland’s off-season for the most vibrant and beautiful rainbows I’ve ever must be incredible. tourism, and ran into very few fellow travellers. seen as I drew close to the geothermal Mecca Tom Waits’ ‘16 Shells From a 30.6’ greeted Finding yourself at the top of the awe-inspiring that is Geysir. I managed to catch several erup- my ears as I got back in the car. His gruff voice Dettifoss waterfall or in the middle of the desert- tions as I walked around the bubbling mud and and junkyard arrangement seemed a perfect fit like Skeiðarársandur are moving and exciting steaming vents, one of the main attractions of as I passed towering cliffs with small waterfalls experiences, greatly enhanced when they’re soli- the famed Golden Circle. After getting my fill of blown so hard by the wind that their water de- tary endeavours with no one around for many Geysir, a quick drive brought me to Gullfoss, a fied the laws of gravity and launched skyward. kilometres in any direction. splendid waterfall that coated me with droplets A short stop at Skógafoss, a waterfall whose size Of course, it’s not that easy to get the ringing of mist as I gazed with wonder at the crashing helps to hammer home just how puny we humans out of your ears after five days of aural pummel- tumult and chewed my smoked lamb sandwich. are, and I was on my way to Vík, a small village ling, but I found that soundtracks, both real and I then backtracked a bit and headed south to on the south coast. imaginary, constantly played in the background Route 1, the Ring Road, making a detour along Vík supposedly averages the highest rainfall over the course of my journey. The few CDs I the way at Skálholt, a cathedral that was seat of in Iceland, but I was greeted by sunshine and carried along with me, the sporadic reception a bishopric dating back to 1056 AD. The grounds relatively balmy weather of about eight degrees of Icelandic radio, nature’s random murmur- were deserted, and I soon became aware of a Celsius. A quick drive down a dirt road brought ing, and deafening silence only disturbed by strange soundtrack, the source of which took me three rocky spires into view, known as Reynis- intensely powerful gusts of wind comprised the several minutes to identify. The wind, which buf- drangar (aka the “Troll Rocks”), just offshore soundtrack to this trip. Again and again, the per- feted me throughout the majority of my trip, was from a beautiful black-sand beach. There didn’t Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 23

Photos by Jonah Flicker

seem to be much more going on in this sleepy complain too much. during my time in Iceland. I ordered the daily ing the one hour it is open on weekdays to pick town, so I returned to the road with a brand new A busload of British teenagers was spending special, consisting of vegetable soup, baked cod, up a couple of Vikings. Seyðisfjörður is a bustling soundtrack playing – a cheesy ‘70s cover version the night as well, so the management obliged my fried potato balls, and a cabbage salad. My meal ferry stop during the summer, but the only sign of Elvis’ “Suspicious Minds.” I was suddenly oddly request to change rooms so I could get a decent was enhanced by the restaurant’s soundtrack, of life this night was the town’s name in lights up and embarrassingly moved by the overwrought night’s rest. After sampling the excellent break- with what sounded like an Icelandic Neil Dia- on the mountainside. I bought my supper at the tune, but I suspect this was a combination of the fast spread, I headed out before sunrise to back- mond singing a song called “Blue Jean Queen.” local grocery store and headed back to my room extra-strong coffee I picked up at Vík’s single gas track a few kilometres to the edge of the glacier to settle down for the night. station and the astounding Mýrdalssandur, the just within the boundaries of the national park. A Friendly Reminder from JC My trip was only halfway over, and there was glacial desert I was now entering. From Djúpivogur, I stayed on the Ring Road in- still a lot of ground to cover and soundtracks to Towards the East Coast ‘80s stead of taking Route 939, which would have hear, but I already felt like I had gotten to know Glacial Landscapes for Glacial Landscapes At first light I arrived at Skaftafell’s deserted visi- connected me directly to Egilsstaðir and short- this wonderful country just a little better. At this point, I began to wish I actually had tor centre to the most appropriate soundtrack of ened my trip significantly. This is a good choice brought some CDs with me for the trip. But in this all – complete silence. Alone, except for the oc- if you have time to spare, as the road winds you Text by Jonah Flicker day of the iPod, who still carries physical copies casional chirping bird, I walked the path through around beautiful fjords, sometimes going sev- of music along with them on their travels? Luck- the dissipating mist to the glacier’s edge. Signs eral kilometres inland and back out to the coast. ily, I had been given a copy of Reykjavik!’s excel- warned against climbing on Vatnajökull, and the Talking Heads’ ‘Road to Nowhere’ began to play lent ‘Glacial Landscapes, Religion, Oppression, visible crevasses convinced me that it was advice as I flipped through the dial, on the only station and Alcohol’ by a very drunken guitar playing worth heeding. Later on during my trip, someone that had any reception in this part of the country. member of the band during the festival. I popped would tell me about a couple of German tour- Unsure if I had missed a crucial turn that would this in and was immediately inspired and ener- ists who disappeared on the glacier last summer add hours to my journey, David Byrne’s words gised, but managed to slow down as I passed a and haven’t been heard from since. Blissfully seemed to mock me, until I realised I was on the rest stop with mysterious piles of rocks dotting unaware of this at the time, I immersed myself right path. the landscape. in the serenity of my surroundings. On the way After a brief stop in Reyðarfjörður, where my Intrigued, I pulled over to investigate and back to the Ring Road, an incredibly cheesy reg- guidebook told me I might be able to find the found that this spot marks the remains of an an- gae song played on the radio, something about grave of Völva (I didn’t), I headed out on the final cient homestead. It seems that Icelanders con- the “heartbeat of the earth.” Somehow, this hack- stretch to my destination for the night, Seyðis- sider it good luck to add a rock to one of these neyed cliché felt kind of poignant, considering fjörður. cairns, so I happily obliged, secretly hoping that the natural beauty surrounding me. Heading up over the hills from Egilsstaðir, Au- this action would portend good things to come. As I travelled northeast on the Ring Road, dio Adrenaline’s moronic Christian rock played In the distance, the cloud cover lifted up ever so skirting the coast, the massive glacier peeping on the radio, a song called “Never Gonna Be as slightly, affording me a glimpse of Myrdalsjökull, out from behind the mountains every few min- Big as Jesus.” Jesus, what a terrible song. But this a glacier that would pale in comparison to what I utes, a litany of ‘80s hits burst forth from my Ex- musical torment was well worth it when I pulled would experience in the morning at Vatnajökull, plorer’s speakers – ‘Tainted Love,’ ‘Purple Rain,’ into the parking lot of Seyðisfjörður’s quaint and Europe’s largest glacier. etc. I passed through the small town of Höfn and classy Hotel Aldan. Owner Klas Poulsen met me I tipped my hat to the elves and trolls I’m sure entered a tunnel through the mountains. Static in the building that houses the dining room and were scurrying all around me and got back in the immediately deadened the sound from the car reception area to direct me towards a separate CAR PROVIDED BY: car, determined to make it to Hótel Skaftafell be- speakers, but when I came out into the sunshine building where the rooms are located. Mine was fore dark, on the edge of Skaftafell National Park. of the fjord country on the other side, Sinead on the top floor, large, antique-furnished, and The hotel turned out to be a pretty average road- O’Conner’s “Nothing Compares 2 U” was play- very comfortable accommodation. side accommodation, nothing special but not ing – yet another perfect soundtrack moment. Seems that in the winter, everything in the particularly grungy either. It’s pretty much the I stopped for lunch in Djúpivogur at the Hótel town closes down at about 6pm, but I made it Keflavík Airport only option for lodging in the area, so one can’t Framtíð. This was one of the best meals I had over to the ATVR (the state alcohol store) dur- Tel.: 540 2222, www.sixt.is 24 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Places

Reykjavík Then & Now

In the 1970s... Ingólfstorg was called Hallærisplanið, where teenagers gathered to drink and cop a feel.

In 2008... Hallærisplanið is called Ingólfstorg, where kids gather for ice cream. Photo by GAS

The only thing lower than the standard of this ad ...

... the price of a Sixt Rent a Car.

(Book at www.sixt.is, call 540 2222 or contact your Hotel reception.) The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really

Available at your nearest bookstore 26 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Holidays

Christmas Trees

Every year, an estimated 35 million Christmas trees are cut down and sold around the world. A large number of those are transported thousands of kilometers to even- tual buyers. Christmas just became a major contributor to climate change. Photo by GAS

Fly and discover

NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland

Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK

FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA Holidays | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 27

Fireworks

A record breaking total 1,275 tons of fireworks was imported to celebrate New Year’s ‘06/’07, a number that has doubled since three years ago. The fireworks caused airborne particle pollution to reach 550 µg /m3 (micrograms per cubic metre) on New Year’s eve, more than ten times the established public health limit of 50 µg /m3.. Photo by GAS

Fly and discover

NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland

Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK

FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA 28 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Article

Across the Country in 40 Days

The engine huffed and puffed loudly as the modi- the land wardens will question the driver as to around 21:30 when I first stared at that new and I wake up and set off fied Toyota Hilux bit its way over yet another what sort of car is about to stand trial, whether unexpected devilry of the land. It appeared to stretch of sand, continuing on its run through an it is owned or hired, whether it has 35-inch tyres, be dark grey, hit by the last rays of a descending fairly early in the morn- ever-shifting cloud of fuzz and dust. One more at least, between its body and the harsh ground. sun, a razor-sharp and menacing barrier straight traveller was challenging the old Gæsavatnaleið They will point out that while the road is only ahead to the South, an array of acuminate teeth ing. It is common knowl- trail. about 100 km long, one should realistically al- rising like a wall from the ground, geometric and Winding across a plateau of lava, sand and locate 6-7 hours to complete it, that mechanical angular, as if cut by square and knife. I halted and edge that wading in large bare rock at the outskirts of the Dyngjujökull gla- accidents are pretty common, and, also for that remained still for some time, trying hard to deci- cier, only a generous amount of optimism and na- reason, that travelling in a convoy is definitely the pher the strange spectacle that had just appeared glacial streams should be ivety could induce someone to call Gæsavatnaleið least masochistic option. They will try to make before my eyes: from afar, they looked like hills of a road. And the Icelandic Road Administration, in sure, in the end, that nobody ventures further, crude rock, and yet I had never heard of anything done in the early hours of fact, has little or nothing to do there. Similarly, it unless relying on a monster vehicle and entirely like that being in this part of the country. I hit the would be quite superficial to consider Gæsavatna- conscious of what the undertaking might entail. trail again and quickened the pace. the day, when the ice melt leið a simple drive. Rather, it is a real off-road rally, Among all the routes and itineraries within the It was under such circumstances, my gaze fit to exhaust the most enduring car and wear out Icelandic highlands, Gæsavatnaleið is the only still fixed on those mysterious sculptures looming is least intense. even a highly experienced driver, a province of one for which I would gladly make an exception ahead, that I came across the mud. Concealed intrepid travellers and dedicated Rescue Team and give up walking in order to join the motorized behind a row of mounds of sand and lava, lay a volunteers who proudly roam this no-man’s-land legions of those rally drivers and adventurers. whole plain. Commonly flooded and submerged in search of situations where some help may be I waved my hand and gazed at the car glim- by the wash of glacial waters, it now unfolded welcome – a pioneer’s scenario that seems drawn mering white and eventually disappearing in the arid and droughty, drained by the unnaturally dry from tales of other places and other times. Per- distance, until fresh tyre marks on the ground and season and consequent paucity of rain. It might haps symbolically, the trail takes its name from a dissolving cloud of dust were all that remained. be hard to believe that so much artistry can be the only, tiny oasis of life and vegetation within I pushed on and walked in complete solitude, produced by something as obvious and prosaic as an otherwise unbroken wasteland: the minuscule roughly following the course of the trail for the dried mud – yet that appeared to be precisely the ponds of Gæsavötn, surrounded by moss. Be- remainder of the day. I walked until my skewed case. It looked like an abstract painting in the late sides that small interruption and feeble glimpse shadow was anticipating my steps late in the night air, stretching for many acres over the soil, a of greenness, all else is black and naked along night, determined to cover, in two days of march- dazzling sequence of shades of black and grey, of Gæsavatnaleið, between Askja and Nýidalur. ing, the sixty kilometres that separated me from sinuous lines and cryptic patterns. Travellers are regularly warned against the fresh water in Gæsavötn. Not even the closest examination proved Both photos are from Dyngjujökull. route. Regardless of the direction from which one Surprises were conveyed by the unreal and sufficient to lift the veil of blindness entirely from Photos by Fabrizio Frascaroli approaches the track, the antiphony is the same: deceiving gleam of the evening. I reckon it was my eyes. Not until I broke the ice with my trekking

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | 29

– Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg 5 poles, stroke after stroke, did all disbelief and in- Despite looking pathetically powerless as a side without any excessive scares. It is only for a delude myself – this will be a miserable day. credulity abandon me. Deceived by the distance tiny, shiny dot in the boundless black nothingness short while in the middle of the crossing that I get I see little or nothing of the glorious geother- and feeble light, what I had mistaken for rock all around, Gæsavötn does nonetheless make the disturbing impression that the strength of the mal area of Vonarskarð, hidden as it is in a mantle and an absurdly shaped range of hills, eventually for an uplifting sight. It welcomed me like an ea- flow is too much of a monster to tame, and that I of thick and impenetrable fog. I catch only sporad- revealed itself to be the grim front of the Dyngju- gerly awaited breath after a prolonged apnoea. I might be overcome. As I touch the opposite bank ic glimpses of the colourful and steaming muds, of jökull glacier: it did not glimmer white and immac- camped on the moss, in yellow and orange hues, I am cold and trembling. It is a particularly gen- the glaciers in the distance, of the vastness of the ulate with ice and snow as one would expect, but rather than green, from a summer so avaricious erous (and painfully untimely) downpour of rain plains beneath, and think with some regret that stood there threateningly, clad in a layer of silt and for rain. that denies me the opportunity to fully enjoy hav- this may be a magnificent place under different dirt, black and turbid like the very soil underneath From the very beginning, I had seen Rjúpna- ing accomplished the feat. conditions. There is not much more to the day: I my feet, black down to its very core, to its subtlest brekkukvísl as the first declared challenge on the cross the mountains and walk my way along the veins of crystal. I observed this imposing and dis- route. I had heard many frightening tales about Vonarskarð river in a narrow but sufficiently comfortable ra- quieting glacial tongue of black ice for a long time, this river – enough to spoil a few nights of sound Thus, I finally enter Vonarskarð – the Pass of Hope vine. By the time the valley widens, my boots have trying to embrace and comprehend its nuances. sleep. They spoke of stones whirled around by the – nestled between the glacier Tungnafellsjökull given in to the overwhelming wetness, which only Most of the time I shivered in discomfort. Later on, violence of the waters, of desperate falls into the and the north-western slopes of Vatnajökull. The adds to the day’s overall misery. By the time the fa- I filtered clean some of the meltdown water, and stream, of days spent drying backpacks drenched horizon progressively enlarges into the immensity miliar and much longed-for shape of the Nýidalur made camp by the moraine. The following day I by the splashes of the river. It is July 22nd, and I of a flat plain, the black lava makes room for the hut appears within sight, it is late in the evening, walked the remaining kilometres to Gæsavötn. wake up and set off fairly early in the morning. monotonous greyness of glacial debris, perfectly and I am soaked. Since I set off, however, I have Drizzle and wind broke out late in the afternoon It is common knowledge that wading in large gla- oval and conic elevations peep out all around in managed to cover almost 300 km, and half of the and did not cease until nightfall. cial streams should be done in the early hours of the guise of the area’s most prominent landmarks. journey already lies behind me. the day, when the ice melt is least intense. The I leave my waterproof clothing tucked away in my Gæsavötn weather seems willing to assist me at first, but it backpack three times, and instead let the light Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli The last mystery of Gæsavatnaleið awaited me soon turns to intermittent burst of drizzles. My drizzle wash over me, waiting for the sun to re- at 1,200 m at the Dyngjuháls pass. Like a host own experience with the wading of Rjúpnabrek- emerge and dry me again. I inevitably overrate of silent totems, dozens, scores, perhaps even a kukvísl, however, turns out to be less dramatic my good luck and misread the weather: the fourth couple of hundred cairns dotted the slopes, vo- than the darkest expectations had suggested – time, there will be no more getting dry again – only tive tributes of past journeymen asking for safe dry summers can have their advantages. The river getting wetter. I camp at around 1,000 m altitude, passage over this ominous trail. I tried to erect my bed is rugged and bumpy, and certainly does not on the slopes of Laugakúla, where the presence own, and as I watched it stand briefly, clumsily, facilitate the best balance. The dirty and muddy of gushing thermal waters has created an oasis and then collapse to the ground, I could only feel waters gush impetuous, rough and furious at the of moss and lush vegetation. I fall asleep under relief for having most of Gæsavatnaleið behind surface. Fortunately, however, they do not reach pouring rain, and I wake up under pouring rain and not before me. much above my knee, and I make for the other the following morning: there is no possible way to

glaumbar - tryggvagötu 20 - tel: 552-6868 Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk†`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h www.glaumbar.is DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: 30 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 01 2008 | Parting Shot

With the houses on Laugavegur 4-6 scheduled to be demolished or moved, this might be your last chance to see these relics from the past. Photo by GAS

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Services Swimming pools: weekdays 06:30- Bus Terminal Useful Information Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, 22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 although www.bhm.is Useful Numbers some may be open an hour longer. BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Where to learn Icelandic as a Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, The State owned ÁTVR liquor Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is foreign language www.efling.is Emergency number: 112 stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat The Commercial Workers’ Union, Police: 440 1000 11-18. Samferda.net Icelandic on the Internet, Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is Medical help: 1770 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri www.vefskoli.is Union of Public Servants, Gret- Dental emergency: 575 0505 09-16. A reasonable choice for the budget Mímir Continuing Education, tisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is AA: 551 2010 traveller. You log on to the website Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Information: 118 Laundry Service www.samferda.net, choose your Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Useful Websites Telegrams: 146 destination and hopefully find a travel Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, buddy to share the cost. Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, www.visitreykjavik.is (The official Tax Free Refund Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is tourist website of Reykjavík) Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Cultural Centres and The Icelandic College of Engi- www.gayice.is (Information about Iceland Refund, Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tourist Offices neering and Technology, Höfða- the gay scene in Iceland) Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 bakki 9, www.fjolmenningarsetur.is www.icelandrefund.com The Intercultural Centre Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (The Multicultural Centre) Getting Around The Intercultural Centre throws oc- Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, www.hostel.is Post Office casional cultural events and confer- Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, (Hostel International in Iceland) Public transport ences but its main purpose is to be an www.ir.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is Post offices are located around the information and counselling centre The University of Iceland – De- (Public employment services) city as well as in the countryside. The only public transport system in and serve as an advocate for the rights partment of Continuing Education, www.gulalinan.is (The yellow The downtown post office is at Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run of immigrants in Iceland. Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, pages) Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and every 20 minutes and price per fare is Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 www.endurmenntun.is www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) info on opening hours visit www. 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.ahus.is www.ja.is posturinn.is. Stamps are also sold in dren. Complete route map at: www. Icelandic Travel Market Religious movements (Icelandic telephone directory) bookstores, gas stations, some grocery bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, stores and tourist shops. Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- www.kleif.is The national church in Iceland is the Where to get … days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Information on day tours, accommoda- Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses Embassies and Consulates tions, car rental and everything else are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 Work and residence permit: The Rent a bike you need to know when travelling in in churches all around the capital. Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð United States, Laufásvegur 21, Iceland. Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. Tel: 562 9100 Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, Iceland Visitor every last Saturday each month, Insurance and benefits: The State , Laufásvegur 31, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Tel: 550 5100 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, www.icelandvisitor.com Church also has masses in English and 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Russia, Garðastræti 33, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is A travel agency offering travelling Polish. Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Tel: 551 5156 Tourist Information Centre, package trips and custom-made tours Other religious movements in Reyk- come from a Nordic country, foreign China, Víðimelur 29, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, as well as car rental, day tours and javík are for example: citizens have to have had an unre- Tel: 552 6751 www.visitreykjavik.is accommodations for visitors. The Muslim Association of Ice- stricted residence permit in Iceland for Tourist Information Centre land, Ármúli 38 at least seven years in order to get an For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Taxi Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 Icelandic citizenship although some Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- www.visitreykjavik.is Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 exceptions exist to that general rule. sions/icelandic-missions/ Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, Offers information for tourists as well The Church of Evangelism, Applications are at the Ministry of Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 as providing internet access, book- Hlíðasmári 9 Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Internet Access BSR, Tel: 561 0000 ing service, a phone centre, money The Icelandic Buddhist Move- Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, For disabled travellers: exchange service, tax refund and ment, Víghólastígur 21 www.domsmalaraduneyti.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Reykjavík Group Travel Service, selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Unemployment benefits: Director- Internet access. Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admis- Fríkirkjuvegur 5 ate of Labour, Public Employment Computers with Internet connections randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ sion to city busses, various museums, Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, are available at: travel_service/ Reykjavík swimming pools, The Family Roman Catholic Church, www.vinnumalastofnun.is Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture Hávallagata 14 Icelandic social security number Tjarnargata 11 Car rentals House and the National and University Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- (kennitala): National Register, Bor- BSÍ Bus Terminal, Library. Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, The Icelandic Tourist Board Jehovah’s Witnesses, www.hagstofa.is Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 554 6040 Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Sogavegur 71 Driver’s license: Those who have a The Reykjavík City Library, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 www.visiticeland.com Seventh-Day Adventists, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Tryggvagata 15 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 All information needed before travel- Suðurhlíð 36 one for the first six months. After that The National and University Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, ling in Iceland. Buddhism in Iceland, time you have one month to apply for Library, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 565 3800 Goethe Institute Reykjavíkurvegur 31 an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- Tourist Information Centre, A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Independent Church, tions are at police stations. Aðalstræti 2 Tel: 587 5544 www.goethe.de/island Háteigsvegur 101 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur Icelandic Travel Market, Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, A cultural institute that offers movie The Russian Orthodox Church in 166, Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Bankastræti 2 Tel: 565 3800 screenings, lectures and German Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 Rent subsidies: Social Service Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, language courses. The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 Office, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 Opening hours Tel: 577 6050 Nordic House www.felagsthjonustan.is Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Trade Unions Bars and clubs: According to regu- www.nordice.is lations bars may be open until 01:00 Airlines The Nordic cultural centre organises The Icelandic Federation of on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. various cultural events, conferences Labour, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, and exhibitions. www.asi.is closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also The Federation of State and Mu- and Smáralind as well as most super- Air , Tel: 481 3255, offer brochures, maps and information nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, markets and tourist shops have longer www.eyjaflug.is for travellers. Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is opening hours. The Association of Academics,

Icelandic for foreigners Framvegis oferuje kursy nauki języka islandzkiego.

New courses starting January 21 www.framvegis.is grapevine.is

ISSUE ONE: JANUARY 11 - FEBUARY 07 YOUR FREE COPY

Stuffed with stuff

Yes, there’s an incredibly thin line between drama and comedy, and it’s evi- dent that a lot of the best comedies of all time could have easily been turned into dramas, with a few simple nuances. Director Ragnar Bragason talks about his recent exploits. Page 6

They are tearing down Grand Rokk. And Sirkús. Not that I am the biggest fan of either of those es- tablishments (actually, I’ve probably spent more time unsuccessfully trying to gain entry to Sirkús than actually inside of it. Haukur Magnússon wonders about down- town development. Page 8

If we think of this band as a fellowship, this fel- lowship is not going any further, at least not at this time. Birkir Viðarsson explains the break up of I Adapt. Page 16

“That’s probably what I’ll miss the most because we put on super live shows together. In my view, [Gus- Gus] is the best live band there is.” No more Earth for GusGus. Page 31

“Has everyone bought their Christmas presents yet?” asked Lovísa. Then after a painful pause, she breathed, “I haven’t.” From somewhere in the audience I heard a lonely chuckle. Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir went to see Benny Crespo’s Gang. Page 34

“They could be massive on the College circuit, defi- nitely.” BBC World Service loves Hraun. Page 36