GusGus Breaks the Silence FRENCH FILM FESTIVAL The Tourist Quiz, What Type are You? • Esja - The First Ever Interview Full Schedule Taxes - as Certain as Death • The Grapevine visits the Faroe Islands Schedule Inside Inside

Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 3 // 09 March - 12 April 2007 P_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_YEAR 05_MARCH_09_APRIL_12 Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 If No One Dares to Try, We Would Never Get Anything New The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with editor Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 08 Honesty Doesn’t Pay [email protected] Consumer advice for foreign tax payers in Iceland Published by: Fröken ehf.

10 No Love for Porn! Editorial Office A column by Marvin Lee Dupree +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. 12 Nothing but the Word A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson Marketing Office +354 540-3605 / [email protected] 14 What Kind of Tourist Are You? for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution Grapevine’s highly scientific personality quiz and subscriptions.

19 Prejudice or Paranoia? Publisher’s Office A column by Toshiki Toma +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication. 24 Esja, a New Peak in the Musical Landscape An Interview with Krummi and Daníel Ágúst The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Features Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 14 GusGus are Forever Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] An Interview with Biggi Veira Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] Contributing writers: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Essentials Ian Watson Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] 14 Grapevine Goes Shopping Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Proofreader: Jane Victoria Appleton On cover: GusGus 18 CD Reviews Photo: Atli / www.dund.is Make-up: Sóley / emm 20 Uninspired Style & hair: Jón Atli ‘Hairdoctor’ Helgason Mínus and Incubus at Laugardalshöll Wardrobe: Liborious

21 Saint Simon Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press Emilie Simon at Háskólabíó # of copies: 30.101.

21 Good Show, Unfortunate Venue The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Lisa Ekdahl at NASA Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information Outside Reykjavík centres. Are you planning an event? Do you want to tell us something? 26 Remote and Isolated, yet Oddly Familiar Send a press release to: [email protected] Grapevine visits the Faroe Islands We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to: [email protected]

28 Short Day Trip to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way around)? If so contact: [email protected]

Info. You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. B01 Listings The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

B10 The Advanced Way to Experience Art The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this mag- B12 Food Reviews azine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information B13 Bezt í Heimi: Filippseyjar Grocery Store inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change.

B15 Aldrei fór ég suður: Now More Than Ever Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Subscription inquiries: [email protected] and +354 540 3605.

From the Editor’s Chair

Welcome, dear reader, to the 54th issue of constructed between 1916 and 1917 after a era. From its metal foundation, rust drips the Reykjavík Grapevine. This might be our 1915 fire destroyed many wooden houses in constantly on to the angel’s face, down its lightest issue to date. Sometimes it just can- the surrounding area. Influenced by Art Nou- chin and throat, as if it had been chewing not be helped: things fall apart at the last veau and Danish Nationalist Romanticism, tobacco but lacked the proper skills to spit it minute, and all of a sudden you have a com- with curved lines, poles and marble stairs, out properly. pletely different paper on your hands. That the house is also decorated with statues by The audacity to treat our cultural heri- is not to say that this issue is any worse than the sculptor Einar Jónsson, one of Iceland’s tage with such little respect! This is nothing what had been planned. On the contrary. I most respected artists. It is, in every way, a short of cultural terrorism. While city officials am extremely proud of no. 54 and the peo- fine testimony to our cultural heritage. have been on a rampage, following kids with ple who put in the extra effort to make it If you still haven’t looked at the photo, spray cans around the city, no one seems to come together. you might think that I am simply describing a have given a second thought to ruining one On to other subjects. I would like to direct building. You would be wrong. On the cor- of the few truly historic landmarks in Reykja- your attention to a photo on page 30. It is a ner, just above the entrance to the restaurant vík. This is beyond belief and borders on the photo of a historic house on the corner of Apótekið is a statue, one of the many Einar ridiculous. Austurstræti and Pósthússtræti, one of the Jónsson designed for the building. It shows hallmarks of Reykjavík Centrum. Designed the figure of an angel looking up towards by Guðjón Samúelsson (1887-1950), Ice- the sky. But the angel’s view is obstructed. land’s most celebrated architect, the house Some genius decided that just above its head was the first “big” building to rise in Iceland, would be the perfect place for a CCTV cam- 0_RVK_GV_ISSUE 03_2007_LETTERS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_NEWS_0 Sour Grapes News in Brief

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]. Text by Haukur Magnússon, Steinunn Jakobsdóttir and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson

An open letter to Páll Hilmarsson Dear Editor, an England + Iceland trip; I’ve been Pornographers To Convene ‘Liberals’ Reveal Link Between panies, Olíuverzlun Íslands and Skeljungur, that generate high pollution levels caused by I am from New York City working married too many times; and I just In Reykjavík Terrorism, Drug Trafficking will face countless charges from customers airborne micro dust particles stirred up by Dear sir, here temporarily in Iceland. I’ve moved back to Minnesota (which is Uncovering a story that has already en- The Icelandic Parliament saw some action wishing to recoup some of the money they traffic. how dare you state that mighty been coming here for years for both just digging out of the worst snow- raged Iceland’s feminist collective to an in February, as representatives of the Pro- lost during the companies’ reign of corrup- Health care limits in Reykjavík are set at BLACK-METAL is bad? fun and work. I arrived here in No- storms of the past five years or so) oft-reached boiling point, RÚV reported on gressive and Liberal parties argued heavily tion in the 90s. 50 micrograms per cubicmeter (ug/m3) in You obviously have no taste in vember. About a month later I was from California. February 15th that up to 150 veterans of the over the nature of terrorism. Spurred by MP 24-hours. On February 26th, pollution was - nor knowledge of - music. Either violently assaulted and landed in the Yes, prudish; prudent, no. international pornography industry were (and recent liberal addition) Valdimar Leó measured at 66,1 ug/m3. This was the fifth that or you are the world’s biggest hospital. planning to convene for a week of network- Friðriksson’s claims that infamous terrorists 73% Favour More Environmental time this year that pollution exceeded health sissypants square/lame excuse for Unfortunately, no bones were I’m enjoying the articles very much, ing and fun in Iceland in March. The annual had at times been apprehended at the Ke- Protection care limits. Reykjavík city is taking measures an anarchist. I demand that you broken (....or so I was told because Sue Cross convention was referred to as Snowgather- flavík International Airport, Keflavík police According to a recent Gallup Capacent poll, to reduce the number of days when pollu- resign from your post reviewing my case apparently would have ing and is apparently one of the largest ag- authorities stated that no known terrorists conducted for the Iceland Nature Conserva- tion exceeds health care limits, with the tar- records for the Grapevine. received attention). Here it is 2.5 Dear Susan, gregations of web-based porn-merchants had thus far been captured at the airport. In tion Association, roughly 73% of Icelanders get being no more than 23 days this year. And what the hell is wrong months later and the attacker (my The ideal blend of course, is a person in the world. response to the statement, Progressive MP believe that political parties should place with songs about Church burnings Icelandic ex-boyfriend) has not been that is neither prudish nor prudent. Accompanied by renowned artists such Guðjón Ólafur Jónsson called for Liberal MPs more focus on environmental protection. anyway? served with the court summons. Even more preferably that person as “Dutch hotty Sandy Cage” and “UK Par- to enlighten the parliament of exactly which When asked if political parties should give Hagur Hafnarfjarðar Accused The officers who I filed the com- would be tall and handsome, and ty Animal Daisy Rock”, the pornographers terrorists had been apprehended to their more attention to environmental protection, Of Fear Propaganda Thank you, plaint with don’t return my “check- loaded… Yes, I think we are on to were planning to meet up in Reykjavík’s knowledge. 37,2% answered that the parties should give Sól í Straumi, an interest group in Haf- -Haukur Sigurbjörn Magnússon ing in” SMS’s or phone calls. They’re something here. Radisson SAS hotel on Wednesday March Responding to Jónsson’s enquiries, the a lot more attention to environmental pro- narfjörður opposing plans to enlarge the very busy with the investigations of 7th for some cocktails before partaking in Liberal Party’s vice-president Magnús Þór tection, while 35,6% answered that the par- Straumsvík aluminium plant, have harshly Dear Haukur, actual violent crimes, they told me Ed. such conventional activities as snowboard- Hafsteinsson pointed out that passengers ties should give more attention to the topic. criticised the organisation Hagur Hafnarf- I believe you are referring to a line two months ago. (Gee, I thought ing in Akureyri, visiting strip-clubs and tour- were frequently caught with materials to 22,6% Answered that they believed that jarðar, a group of people and companies in a CD review by the Grapevine’s NYC was tough.) ing the Golden Circle, according to the con- produce “massive” amounts of narcotics. environmental protection was receiving ad- that have vested interests in the smelter, and distinguished CD reviewer, Páll Hil- If I must be held hostage by IS In my book Daniel Pollock is a savior/ vention’s web-site. The site goes on to claim This, claimed Hafsteinsson, is what Friðriks- equate attention, while 4,6% believed that accused them of being biased and using fear marsson, where he says: “Metal red tape, I at least want to warn hero for having the balls and energy that a scantily clad woman called Eve Angel son (who was on sick-leave from parliament environmental protection was receiving too propaganda to influence the people of Haf- can be great. We all know that. other foreigners what they can ex- to create and run a pro-rehearsal wants to meet YOU in Iceland. that day) was referring to. much attention. narfjörður to vote in favour of the enlarge- Almost any kind of metal is great, pect if they are attacked here. facility to accomodate a blooming Browsing through on-line pictures from To irrefutably establish the link between There was a noticeable difference in opin- ment. with the exception of black-metal, No wonder so many people music scene that has brought forth last year’s Snowgathering, which took place terrorism and drug-trafficking, Hafsteinsson ion between the sexes, with around 78% The smelter (it’s the one you pass when which is not great.” I would have drop these kinds of charges --too artist’s that have brought interna- in Austria, one can ascertain that some of then quoted the Icelandic dictionary’s defini- of women in favour of more environmental driving to or from the Keflavík Airport) is granted Páll an opportunity to an- much time to reconsider and sec- tional attention to Iceland and bol- the visiting pornographers use the trip to tion of terrorism (“sabotage, manslaughter, protection, with 67% of men answering the owned by the industrial giant Alcan Iceland swer your ridiculous accusations, ond guess the emotional and physi- stered the economy considerably in manufacture some more of their controver- wounding”), adding: “What is the mass-pro- same way. Of 1350 people polled, 800 an- Ltd., which is now planning to increase the but he is currently unavailable, cal impact of the violation. numerous ways. Lay Low is a recent sial products. When asked by RÚV’s report- duction and distribution of narcotics in this swered. smelter’s annual capacity from 170,000 tons somewhere deep in the Cambo- example of an artist coming from er if there were plans afoot to produce por- country other than sabotage, wounding and to 460,000 tons. The inhabitants of Haf- dian jungle, on an assigment to PS, I’m so happy to have the Grape- the ranks of TÞM to rise to consider- nography in Iceland, convention organizer even manslaughter?” Jónsson responded narfjörður will get the chance to vote on the find Colonel Kurtz, the original vine to read! able national sucess and poised to Christina Ponga stated that that would likely to Hafsteinsson’s explanations, saying they Pornographers’ Convention subject on March 31st. portrayer of Black Metal. make her mark world wide. It is no happen, although neither time nor place for were a pitiful attempt to justify his fellow CANCELLED! The newly established organisation Hagur Obviously, that last statement Best, accident Bjök will be rehearsing for such activities had been planned. She added MP’s outrageous claims through free word- The SnowGathering 2007 pornographers’ Hafnarfjarðar has one main goal, to support is only half truth, but I guess it Xxxxxx (name withheld by ed.) her upcoming world tour at TÞM. that any such productions would take place association, adding that Liberal MPs should convention, set to take place in Reykjavík a bigger smelter so as to maintain a flourish- is too much to ask of you to see the facilities of TÞM are on par with in secluded areas, and that the convention’s see fit to apologise to Icelanders and their was cancelled. The convention’s organizers, ing economy in Hafnarfjörður, as they put it. beyond the thinly veiled sarcasm, Dear Xxxxxx, any other proffessional rehearsal guests weren’t planning on shedding any of parliament. As of today, no such apologies FreeOnes.com, announced their decision af- In reaching that goal, their spokesmen have much as with Páll’s statement. Ob- Your story is really heartbreaking, facilities in the western world. Con- their clothes in public. have surfaced. ter receiving word from Hótel Saga – where been encouraging Hafnarfjörður inhabitants viously, you have no sense of the but sadly, not unique. Charges sidering music being one of icelands Ponga furthermore said that no Icelandic they had booked several rooms – that their to vote in favour of the enlargement, arguing finer tools of the journalistic trade, against violent offenders are in- greatest exports since 1987 when travel agency or group had anything to do reservations were being cancelled. In an that if they reject these plans the smelter will used for comic effect and the gen- deed often dropped, since criminal The Sugarcubes charmed the pants with organizing the convention; she herself Oil Company Sentenced To Pay earlier statement from the Icelandic Farm- close down in the near future. That will have eral amusement of the reader. Páll investigators, overworked and un- off the world popular music com- had visited Iceland in November and chosen Customer Reparations ers’ Association, owners of Hótel Saga, they dramatic effects on the smelter’s employees is not a person who is known for derpaid as they are, don’t have the munity it is quite puzzling that the the appropriate venues and activities. In what may prove to be a pivotal ruling, announced that they would not be hosting as well as all the companies doing business making grand and sweeping gen- manpower to follow up on investi- icelandic political community, mov- The group Stígamót (which runs a coun- Reykjavík district court recently sentenced the convention due to announcements from with Alcan, which are, according to Hagur eralisations, let alone secluding a gations. I suspect their inadequacy ers & shakers , money holders and selling and information centre for survivors Ker, former owners of the Esso oil company, various politicians, feminist groups and the Hafnarfjarðar, approximately 1,500 people whole genre of music on the ba- to do their job sadly results in them makers have had such a severe lack of sexual abuse and violence) sent out an to pay a former customer, Sigurður Hreins- Mayor of Reykjavík. The statement also said and more than one hundred companies. sis of a comparitive analysis. He lashing out at those who least de- of vision and interest in taking this open letter to Icelandic authorities urging son, damages to the sum of 15,000 ISK for that the decision was backed up by Rezidor Sól í Straumi, refute these predictions al- would, however, and indeed he serve it, the victims themselves. local and international industry se- them to take action to prevent the conven- his losses on account of the company’s illegal Hotel Group, the proprietors of Radisson SAS together. In a statement they accuse Hagur has, made such statements for the Obviously, this is inexcusable in ev- riously. 12 million kronur a year to tion from taking place. The letter states co-operation with other Icelandic oil distrib- hotels. A later announcement stated that the Hafnarfjarðar of using misleading informa- purposes of amusement and gen- ery way. But there is only one way keep TÞM running is adrop in the that “[p]ornography is simply documented utors. Ker was also sentenced to pay Hreins- hotel planned to stop showing lite-porn on tion and fear propaganda to influence the eral shock. to deal with this problem: to keep bucket to those in power in Iceland prostitution, and prostitution is a premise son 500,000 ISK in court costs. The company their Pay Per View channels. townspeople. According to the statement, As for your even more dumb- applying pressure on police authori- and as to the return on such an in- for human trafficking to thrive. In 2005, has already stated its intentions to appeal the According to a press release, FreeOnes. Sól í Straumi challenge Hagur Hafnarfjarðar founding question regarding ties, following up on your case, and vestment its a no-brainer for any 1st 19 women sought out Stígamót because of ruling to the Supreme Court. com are currently seeking legal advice as to to be more responsible in the debate and songs about church burnings. No- let them know that burying cases year economy student who is not the consequences of prostitution. […] Por- Hreinsson filed his claim on Ker in the af- how they can recoup the resulting financial stop trying to persuade Hafnarfjörður inhab- body said anything to the effect won’t make them go away. That is stifled by a age old business ailment nography is prohibited in Iceland, and so is termath of an Icelandic competition authori- damages, which are reportedly high. itants by arguing that their jobs are in dan- that singing about church burn- the only way to force changes. called Greed - Fast Turnover/Fast re- arranging prostitution. Human trafficking is ties ruling, which deemed that the country’s ger. They also reject the statement made by ings was wrong, but since you I realise it can be draining, but I urge turns - Tunnel Vision. A clear symp- also prohibited.” major oil companies had illegally co-oper- Hagur Hafnarfjarðar that 5-7% of the munic- asked… Obviously, singing about you to stay strong and see to it that ton of the Tunnel Vision- Blindfold The foundation closed its plea for ac- ated from 1993-2001. He provided evidence Air Pollution Reaches Critical ipality’s income can be traced to the smelter. church burnings is pretty much your case is seen through. Ailment is : Spend 500 kronur and tion by stating that “In Iceland, we have showing that he bought gasoline from Esso Levels The number is closer to 1-2% of the town’s on par with singing about white I wish you luck. lose 5,000 kronur. Its very conta- shown that if we don’t want representa- to the amount of 1.2 million ISK during a six- Reykjavík air pollution exceeded recom- total income, they argue. supremacy or violence against gious. I´ve witnessed a lot of com- tives of organised crime coalitions, we can year period from 1995-2001, and his main mended health care levels on February 26th, These debates aren’t expected to con- women. It is a message of hate, Ed. panies and individuals rise , fall and stop them. That was for instance revealed claim was for reparations of 180,000 ISK. and reached high levels again the day after. clude before the big day. glorifying the discrimination of a die from taht disease. I hope all when representatives of Hell’s Angels tried Hreinsson suit was firmly backed up by The City officials issued a warning, advising old group of people on the basis of Grapevine readers near and far will to gain ground here. We don’t believe that Consumers’ Association of Iceland. people, children and people with respitory their religion. Obviously, I will de- Hi: urge the icelandic givernment , the this convention will be tolerated.” Given that the supreme court does not deceases to stay indoors. fend your right to talk out of your I’m visiting Iceland soon and found economic power holders on and be- reverse the ruling, it may be assumed that The combination of frost, snowless streets ass, ad infinitum, etc, but being and subscribed to The Grapevine hind the scene´s to move NOW to Ker and the other illegally co-operating com- and still wind create conditions in Reykjavík loud doesn’t make you right. If all online just today. contribute the support TÞM needs you intend to use your freedom of I enjoyed the article A Staple to survive & thrive...ViVa TÞM!!! speech for is to prove your own of Downtown Shopping, but I ignorance, then perhaps you are think you mean visitors from North M.D. Pollock one of those people who would America are “prudish,” not pru- World Citizen be better off living in a country dent. Speaking for myself, I know I where the government takes an am prudish and rarely appear nude Right on brother! active role in silencing the voices even to myself -- however, I, like Ed. of dissent. many of my fellows Americans, am not always prudent. I carry a lot of Ed. credit card debt and yet I’m going on

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of women who left other papers to try to es- tablish something new, which is a statement in itself. We feel that there are certain things that could be done better and we intend to do things the way we want them done. The attention I received personally in relation to the series of articles I have written about the privatization of the banks, and the whole e- mails issue (see intro). After that, I went on maternity leave, and founding this magazine was almost the first thing I did after return- ing. I think people were maybe expecting me to continue to uncover issues like that. Was it easy, getting this experienced group together? Some people left good positions to follow you to found a new paper. It was no problem. I think almost everyone I asked came onboard, with maybe one ex- ception. I think that primarily shows what a good concept this is. All these people, with 70% útskrifaðra nemenda all this experience, believed this would work. People have pointed out that the magazine is Háskólans á Bifröst eru komnir a little on the serious side, and we take our- selves seriously, but we are writing for the public, and there is only a section of the pub- í stjórnunarstarf innan 5 ára lic that is interested in news related material, and those are the people we are focusing on. We know that this concept has been success- að námi loknu. ful in other countries. Look at the Economist, for example: While sales figures for most magazines in the world are on the decline, sales figures for the Economist have tripled in just a few years. There is an enormous supply of informa- tion in our society, not least perhaps with the addition of blogs, and that is why I think we need a magazine that is selective. The idea is that this magazine should be the only thing you need to read to follow the weekly news and to know what is going on in society. But we also have everything else that matters. Cultural material, you should only have to read the Krónika to know what is going on in culture, sports, news, etc. We are betting on this formula, and I think it will prove to be Háskólinn á Bifröst er eini „campus“-skólinn successful, especially with the group of jour- If No One Dares to Try, We Would Never nalists we managed to put together. People í félagsvísindum á Íslandi. who have years of experience in preparing information for the public and put it in con- Get Anything New. text, and now they have an opportunity to Nemendur vinna raunhæf verkefni do the news in their own way. What we want to do is to have journalists cover issues í gegnum allt námið. Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari that they are experts on. When we, as journalists, are covering Nær helmingur nemenda dvelur issues that we know inside out, like Arna Journalist Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir has work together on our own business. We lead if they knew what we were up to. This Schram, who has written about politics for eitt misseri erlendis t.d. í Kína. started a new weekly news magazine. Be- started to think about what we wanted to is a cutthroat business and the competition (Iceland’s biggest daily newspaper) Morgun- ing a woman, she has had to work hard to do in the future, and we asked ourselves: if is hard, so we did our best to keep the con- blaðið for ten years, she should not have to keep the competition from labelling it as a there were no obstacles in our path, what cept behind the paper as a business secret. seek an expert’s opinion of what happens in Háskólinn á Bifröst býður upp á ‘women’s mag’. would we want to do? We wanted to do Instead, perhaps we managed to surprise a case of this or that, she knows this herself. something that was our own, to produce a few people. She knows as well as anyone how the po- mjög öflugt fjarnám. Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir has a stel- magazine that we could be proud of being But there was something else as well. litical game is played, because she has been lar reputation as a journalist. In 2006, she associated with, a magazine that we would When we were starting off, with me as the covering it for so long. Aðalheiður Inga, with was awarded for investigative journalism want to read ourselves. Editor, Arna Schram as the Assisitant Editor, her years of experience in covering foreign by the Icelandic Journalists Association for We began to think about this in Sep- and another woman on the editorial staff, politics, can tell us as well as anyone what her series of articles on the privatisation of tember/October and started to work on it in while there was only one man, right from the there is to know about the US presidential formerly publicly owned Icelandic banks, December. We were lucky to get our art di- beginning we started to hear middle aged elections this spring. She does not have to Búnaðarbanki (now Kaupþing) and Lands- rector, Bergdís Sigurðardóttir, on board very men in the media business describing us as a seek an expert’s opinion to put things in con- banki Íslands) which revealed suspicious early. She has been in the business of design- women’s magazine. So this was our way to text. This is what we want to do, and I hope Minnum á að við erum þegar farin að taka á móti umsóknum í allar deildir skólans. dealings between government officials and ing magazines for 12 years, and our ideas put a stop to that. the public will realise this. private investors. She also caused quite a stir on how the magazine should look came This was never intended to be a women’s What about the business model itself? Því fyrr sem þú sækir um, því meiri möguleika áttu á námsvist. Umsóknareyðublöð when she uncovered suspicious e-mail cor- together well, so she deserves at least half magazine, it is a weekly magazine for both What sort of ratio are you aiming for in respondence between several higher-ups in the credit for the magazine. I think together men and women, and it would have been regards to advertisements against edi- eru á heimasíðu skólans, www.bifrost.is Icelandic society regarding the Baugur-case, we managed to make the kind of magazine very damaging for us if it had been labelled torial content, and subscription versus the largest court trial in Iceland to date. we wanted to make: a quality product that is as a women’s magazine from the start, so single sales copies? Her most recent foray in journalism was both entertaining and full of material with a we decided to emphasise the news aspect Most of our revenue should come from sub- Lagadeild Viðskiptadeild Félagsvísindadeild to found – along with her husband Valdimar minimalist and approachable design. and we managed to put a stop to that dis- scriptions and single sales, only a small por- Í lagadeild er boðið upp á viðskiptalögfræði Alhliða viðskiptanám sem ætlað er að búa Deildin býður upp á grunnnám til BA í HHS Birgisson, former sales manager for 365 Me- But my emphasis can be seen very clearly cussion. tion from advertisements. I think advertise- sem samsett er úr greinum lögfræði, fjármála nemendur undir ábyrgðar-, forystu- og (heimspeki, hagfræði og stjórnmálafræði). dia – and edit a new weekly news magazine in this magazine. When you start a project It just seems as if there are a few indi- ment ratio should be around 20%. We are in Iceland, named Krónikan. The idea was to like this, you have to rely on your own in- viduals in this business, of a certain age and betting on people being prepared to buy our og viðskipta. Námið er afar hagnýtt og getur stjórnunarstörf í innlendu og alþjóðlegu Grunnnám í HHS er traustur undirbúningur put together a magazine that would focus stincts, and not be too worried about what gender, who seem to be more eager to talk product. There are 5000 people who buy verið góður undirbúningur fyrir atvinnulífið samkeppnisumhverfi. Í BS námi í fyrir hvers kyns framhaldsnám á sviði hug- og on news related content and put it in con- others are going to think. We decided from negatively about our paper. I cannot state for (Icelandic version of Se og Hör or Hello, if you eða frekara nám. Nemendur útskrifast með viðskiptafræði eru kennd öll helstu svið félagsvísinda, til meistara- eða doktorsgráðu text, filling readers in on not only what was the start to follow our convictions, and I think sure that it is because there are women at will) Séð og Heyrt, so why should people not on the news but also what it means. that the readers will see that this is done with the helm, but it certainly looks like it to us. want to buy the Krónika? We actually need BS gráðu í viðskiptalögfræði. stjórnunar, rekstrar og viðskipta. og fyrir störf á alþjóðlegum vinnumarkaði. Several experienced and well-regarded integrity and ambition. I mentioned how a lot of hype had built more readers than Séð og Heyrt, but I think journalists accepted her offer to join the This magazine had built up some hype up around the magazine before it was we can get that, and I think others believe magazine, leaving hard-earned positions to by word of mouth before its actual pub- published, what do think contributed to that as well, otherwise I could not have got- try their hand at something new and fresh lication, and when it hit the streets, it that? ten all these qualified journalists onboard. in the Icelandic media market. There was looked very different from what I had I think… no, I am certain that a part of the Of course this is a very competitive field, much anticipation regarding the publication. imagined. I had imagined a very hard- reason was because there are women re- but I am sometimes reminded of a friend of Last month, the magazine hit the streets to hitting news magazine. sponsible for the magazine. This has never my husband, who was asked if there would mixed reviews. Sigríður Dögg sat down with It was never our intention to start a maga- happened before in Icelandic media, with be room for the fourth bar in Reykjavík: after a Grapevine journalist to talk about her new zine that would only feature news related the exception of Herdís Þorgeirsdóttir, who going through the calculations, he said there magazine, and the challenges of being a fe- material. The Icelandic market is simply too founded the magazine Heimsmynd. But since was no way a fourth bar in Reykjavík could male editor for a news magazine. small for that. But we did try to maintain that then, women have not been very prominent carry itself. We all know how that turned perception on purpose, for business reasons. in executive positions in Icelandic media, es- out. If no one dares to try, we would never Tell me a little bit about how this maga- Two new newspapers were being established pecially among owners and founding part- get anything new. zine started. at around the same time, and we were sim- ners. My husband and I had always wanted to ply afraid that they would try to follow our Also, this was such an experienced group Stjórnenda- og leiðtogaskóli í hartnær 100 ár 10_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_CONSUMER/TAXES

days from the date of the reassessment. And indeed, looking back at the printout I had gotten from Tollstjórinn, I had been charged interest starting exactly ten days from the Special offer date of the reassessment. But absent from this law is any kind of requirement that tax- payers undergoing reassessment be told anything about this ten-day deadline, or told where to send their payment. Now at least I knew. I had been treated – or rather mistreated – exactly in accor- dance with the law. I felt this law needed to be changed. And who changes laws? Parlia- ment. They are always tweaking small details like this. Iceland is a small country. Plenty of people seemed to agree with me. Maybe I could push to get it changed. I soon learned the name of the chair- man of the parliamentary committee that oversees tax law. He represents the Indepen- dence Party and is reported to be passion- ately interested in tax issues. I wrote him an e-mail, and spoke to his secretary by phone, outlining the issue briefly and politely. When I got no response, I wrote another e-mail, and still got no response. Some months later, I had a chance to talk to him at a conference, and mentioned the issue, again briefly and politely. He said that he sympathised very much, and had once had a similar problem himself, and that I should definitely get in touch – after the primary election. After the primary election, I sent him another brief and polite e-mail. I haven’t heard back. In fair- ness, I understand that members of parlia- ment get a lot of e-mail, and maybe I should just try harder.

Icelandic Deficiencies By law, Canadian taxpayers may receive a refund of overdue penalties from Revenue Canada if they have not received proper no- tice of taxes due (source: GST Memorandum Honesty Doesn’t Pay 500-3-2-1). And in the United States, the Fair Credit Reporting Act requires private-sector creditors to disclose payment terms fully and Text by Ian Watson Photos by Ashkan Sahihi* prominently. Should the same common-sense principles not apply to the public sector in Ice- land? Of course I think they should, and so Rejoice, it’s tax time once again. Many for- really RSK’s mistake. Elvar took all the details Then, her expression and tone of voice clearly did Harpa, and Örn, and Björn, and eign residents in Iceland find the rules here he needed and explained how I would get abruptly changed and she became confi- others as well. So why was it so hard to get a bit baffling at first and, to be fair, Icelan- two letters, first a notice of reassessment and dential. She told me that it was common people interested in changing the rules? dic tax forms have gotten more complicated then the final reassessment. Early December for people not to understand that their pay- Perhaps they just had more important in the last few years. To reassure you that 2003, I received the final reassessment notice ments were due, especially for reassessed things to do. Or perhaps there is a lingering Discounts on day tours things could always be worse, I offer up a from RSK. The letter gave the amount of the taxes. But the rules didn’t allow her to send sense in Iceland (maybe dating back to the true story of taxpayer woe. reassessment (just short of a million ISK), but bills, and she couldn’t change the rules. She trade monopoly days?) that customers are al- didn’t give me any information about how to implied that she was kind of fed up with such ways wrong, and customers who owe money The story starts in 2002, the first full year pay it except to say that Tollstjórinn had been cases herself, but nothing would happen are even more wrong – so there’s no reason that I lived in Iceland. My only income that notified of the reassessment. unless the public complained. She said she to care about their “user experience.” Or per- 5% discount for 1 daytour year, from working as a tour guide in Europe would appreciate it if I would appeal as far haps it’s just hard to fight government offi- for an American travel agency, amounted My Troubles Begin as possible up the chain of command, espe- cials. to a little under $37,000. When I moved to The regular assessment notice that one re- cially because, in this case, the reassessment I’ve since learned that many other issues Iceland, I had conscientiously made an ap- ceives from RSK at the end of July each year had taken place because of RSK’s mistake. surrounding notice of payments due are 10% discount for 2 daytours pointment with RSK (the Icelandic tax au- is followed by a bill from Tollstjórinn with The first step would be to send a formal ap- controversial in Iceland. I have a small file of thorities), where a nice man (whom I will call which one actually pays one’s taxes. So in peal to her, which, she explained, she would newspaper clippings on questions such as Elvar) explained how the Icelandic tax system my naivety, I assumed that I would soon get deny. I could then appeal to the Ministry of whether Icelandic merchants may charge for worked. He confirmed that I would need to a bill from Tollstjórinn, listing the account Finance. billing their customers, and whether overdue pay Icelandic tax on my non-Icelandic in- number where I should pay, the amount, and I sent her the letter of appeal, which she charges should be regulated by law. More 15% discount for 3 daytours come, but I could do so during the calendar the payment deadline. promptly denied. In the meantime, I called broadly, I’ve learned that Iceland missed out year after receiving it. So I set aside a good Instead, several weeks later, a letter ar- up two people I know who are retired from on enacting a lot of the consumer protection chunk of my 2002 income for taxes, and I rived from Tollstjórinn telling me that my responsible positions in government finance. legislation that came into being in America filed my 2002 tax return in early 2003. payment was overdue. The letter demanded Let’s call them Björn and Örn. Örn made some and Europe during the 1970s (there are no Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions When I got my tax assessment from RSK not only my million ISK of tax, but more than inquiries on my behalf. “I talked to the head class-action lawsuits or small-claims courts in and my tax payment slip from Tollstjórinn in 50.000 ISK in “costs” and penalty interest, guy at Tollstjórinn,” he said, “and he thought Iceland). What is interesting in Iceland is that sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, Our brochure is available August 2003, something looked wrong. I which was increasing every day. what happened to you was totally ridiculous. government is just as big an offender as the had set aside a million ISK, but the first bill I sent an e-mail to Elvar, who knew I’d But he can’t do anything about it, because private sector. Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. at all major hotels and from Tollstjórinn was for only 8.000 ISK. At acted in good conscience. I hoped he would it would set a dangerous precedent.” Björn Change is long overdue. In the meantime: that point I did something which many peo- step in and clear up the mess for me. He grilled me for a whole afternoon in his living Readers beware. You too could be assessed guesthouses. ple say was my big mistake. I called Elvar and wrote right back saying that Ríkisskatt- room before satisfying himself that I really a debt by the Icelandic government without told him that my tax assessment was wrong. stjórinn just assessed taxes, it didn’t collect hadn’t tried to cheat on my taxes and writing being given any information about where to “You are totally crazy,” say friends. “The them. Sorry. up a letter of support in Icelandic. pay, how to pay, when to pay, or what kind government forgets to charge you a million I went to the office of Tollstjórinn the next of interest will accrue if you don’t pay. And ISK and you call them up and tell them about morning and paid. But I had received an Appeal Process you won’t get any meaningful sympathy, even

it?” But I wanted to establish my good name overdue notice without anyone ever telling Following Harpa’s advice, I sent a letter of if the whole thing was the tax department’s SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 in this country, and didn’t want to start off me where to pay, how to pay, when to pay, complaint to the Ministry of Finance, attach- mistake to begin with. Hah.

by becoming a tax cheat. what kind of interest would be charged if I ing a copy of Björn’s letter. In short order I ÍSLENSKA Elvar and I figured out that I had report- didn’t pay, or even that my debt was due. received a letter back telling me that paper For information on how to fill out your tax ed my American income on line 2.8 of the I was sure there had been some mistake. I bills were never sent in cases of reassessed forms, turn to the Internal Revenue Director- tax form, in accordance with the instruction managed to meet to some higher-ups at Toll- taxes and that the government did not have ate (www.rsk.is), where further information is booklet. In order to have it properly taxed stjórinn, particularly a woman whom I’ll call the legal authority to refund my overdue available in the following languages: English, though, I should have put it on line 2.1, even Harpa. I explained the story to her and told penalties. Danish, Finnish, Norwegian, Swedish, French, if there was nothing in the instructions to tell her I thought it was wrong that I was being Now I decided to complain to the office Spanish, German, Polish, Russian and Chinese. me this. Elvar agreed with me that the in- charged interest on a bill when I had had no of the parliamentary ombudsman. The om- The Directorate of Customs collects taxes for struction booklet was misleading. (Later, he notice that the bill was due. At first, Harpa budsman’s primary purpose is to determine the Icelandic Government, and the City of told me that that the person who edits the spoke sternly and spelled out the party line. whether government agencies have acted Reykjavík. For more info, visit www.tollur.is. instruction booklet disagreed with him, and I should have come and paid on my own. No according to the law. His response, though Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] the booklet has never been corrected.) exceptions could be made. She printed out a flawed in several respects, pointed out some- * Photos by Ashkan Sahihi in relation to his exhibition of As a result, my taxes needed to be reas- report which showed that interest had been thing important: It is written into Icelandic 100 million ISK at Akureyri Art Gallery in January 2005. sessed. No big problem, and there wouldn’t accumulating on my account since Decem- law (para. 6, Art. 112, Act no. 90/2003) that Cash provided by Kaupþing Bank. be any penalties in my case, because it was ber 20th. reassessed taxes must be paid within ten 10_RVK_GV_03_2007_OPINION No Love for Porn! By Marvin Lee Dupree

One of Iceland’s main selling points teresting read if we ascribe to their of the sombre tone that was taken has always been “purity”, a trait logic. Our grandchildren will read in the Civil Rights movement: on which Icelandair has capitalized about when we lost our indepen- “How dare they?” with the tantalizing phrase, “Come dence, “Móðuharðindin” or when It seems as if a whole bunch of and take a break from the world”. volcanic ash suffocated livestock males in our country have forgot- Maybe I have read too much litera- and humans, The Spanish Flu and ten the Icelandic Sagas, and in the ture, but when I see Geysir “erupt- the winter when almost everybody process have become snivelling lit- ing” I cannot help but wonder if froze to death – and then the day tle bureaucrats, chanting in unison foreigners consider us a sex-crazed a hotel decided to uphold a moral chorus of spite against the evil and country. Furthermore, every ad- stance, at least under pressure. A manipulative feminists, those “ker- vertisement from Iceland seems to Black Day indeed. lingar” that dare to oppose a de- stress how alluring our women are; Most of those commenting also cent conference and free speech. beautiful, yet easy (in their heads concurred that they were ashamed Are some men too afraid of having meaning sleazy and good looking). of our government or that the female equals? Because there sure It is not a stretch, considering that horrible witches of feminism have were enough of them in the Sagas, some of Icelandair’s more recent brought this curse of Puritanism like Auður, back to whom almost ads are pictures of scantily clad la- to our country. Some even went everybody can trace their roots. dies, frolicking in the Blue Lagoon so far as to be ashamed of being Unfortunately, this whole dis- inviting, one assumes, the male Icelandic. To them I say, why not cussion has become a farce, re- population of other countries over exchange nationalities? We could minding one of an absurd theatre for some manic and wild nights in get some people here from Sudan, with meaningless chatter in the Reykjavík. and you can leave for Sudan. The media, for example the chairman Put these things together, and it hypocrisy of these people is appall- of the Left-Green party, Stein- seems as if it were only a matter of ing. grímur Sigfússon, has proposed time before the porn industry came When Falun Gong practitioners setting up “net-police” to surf the to sink its teeth into “pure Iceland”, came here to demonstrate against Internet, with the emphasis on i.e. at least the enticing escapism Li Peng, there were nowhere as curbing distribution of porn on the of the country. Most people are many voices of dissent protesting Internet. This kind of careless talk aware of the group of porn mo- about the rights of the Falun Gong reminds one of a totalitarian state. guls, including the “almost Icelan- being trounced on. Their right to What next? Are we going to burn dic” (Western Icelanders) broth- denounce him as a mass murderer the Marquis De Sade’s works, cast ers who, in their quixotic quest to was annulled and made void by the smutty Classics into the sea provide the world with porn, de- our government. Or when the po- and say good riddance to literature nounced their Icelandic ancestry. lice here in Reykjavík took pictures in general? Goodbye disgustingly Harsh words indeed. Now it seems of Icelandic protesters and actu- rude Catullus. that Iceland has been branded the ally manhandled some of us to the Is there a difference between antithesis of The Netherlands, or ground. That is just fine and dandy, visual eroticism and what is con- rather the culture of Amsterdam. but God forbid there be a porn con- sidered porn on the net? Defin- I consider this to be a good thing ference cancelled. The horror! It’s ing porn is not as simple as some because most foreign male visitors as though the Internet itself were people seem to think. The line are not exactly going there for the being closed by the reactions. between eroticism, satire, porn, windmills, Edam cheese, wooden From what I can gather, the literature and art is pretty thin clogs and Dutch cuisine. individuals of snowgathering.com sometimes, but I am reminded of a I think the same thing can be seem to have taken offence to great little anecdote: If the Swedish said of the so-called porn confer- our allegedly puritan society – a plumber comes over, gets laid and ence. These people were not com- society that seems to be too pure does not fix the sink, well you were “One of Europe’s ing here to witness or partake in to handle porn. And somehow in probably just watching some porn. any Icelandic culture. They wanted their minds, with twisted logic, we All sex, no plot. Although that does finest ensembles.” to talk about porn, introduce porn, have become sexually repressed not mean I want the government - BBC Music Magazine and maybe, let us not delude our- whale killers. Imagine the headlines telling me what to watch, eat and upcoming concerts selves, make contacts here in this around the world: “Keiko haters do. That is not their role and should SAturdAy, March 10th @ 3:00pM tHurSdAy, March 15th @ 7:30pM country. A porn conference by its kill off innocent porn conference.” never be. It was not only feminists, family concert russian giants nature is not like any other conven- I highly doubt that I speak only for the Left Green Party, the Mayor (In- Conductor ::: Berharður Wilkinson Conductor ::: rumon Gamba Soloist ::: Björg Brjánsdóttir Soloists ::: tatiana Monogarova tion, neither is a KKK convention. myself when I say that “I love sex dependence Party) and the Church W.A. Mozart ::: Magic Flute, Overture Sir John tomlinson Not that racism and gender degra- and prefer that to whale meat any that opposed this conference, W.A. Mozart ::: Aria, der Hölle rache Igor Stravinsky ::: Fireworks dation are the same thing, they just day”. Hell, I don’t even consume there were many other individuals Hector Berlioz ::: Songe d’une nuit du Sergei rackmaninov ::: Isle of death Sabbat from Symphonie fantastique dimitri Shostakovich ::: Symphony no. 14 seem to stem from the same root: any flesh. So, how I can support who thought it had nothing good paul dukas ::: the Sorcerer’s Apprentice A total lack of empathy for a fellow Radisson’s decision despite their to bring to our country. Bygones. Atli Heimir Sveinsson ::: Intermezzo from tHurSdAy, March 22nd @ 7:30pM human being. obvious hypocrisy? Simple. You can Let’s get over it. They will host their dimmalimm romeo & juliet Camille Saint-Saëns ::: dance Macabre Conductor ::: pietari Inkinen Sadly, many Icelanders deemed agree with freedom of speech, as conference elsewhere and Iceland John Williams ::: Hedwig’s theme from Soloist ::: Sif tulinius it appropriate to take part in some an undeniable right, it just does not will still be hip if that is what you Harry potter piotr tchaikovsky ::: romeo & Juliet mass hysteria of apologies by writ- mean you have to be the one that people are worried about. Sofia Gubaidulina ::: Offertorium, SAturdAy, March 10th @ 5:00pM Concerto for Violin & Orchestra ing semantically horrendous writ- is helping them out. Porn is a fact However, enough is enough. chamber music at the national Serge prokofiev ::: romeo & Juliet, ten comments on the homepage of of life, you cannot tell people what Some of us are not huge support- gallery of iceland from suite 1 & 2 the conference, with more spelling to do; and Radisson does provide ers of porn, that doesn’t mean we una Sveinbjarnardóttir, violin Sigurgeir Agnarsson, cello tHurSdAy, March 29nd @ 7:30pM errors than sense. Are we actually porn at an affordable price in the can try to get rid of it with censor- Anna Guðný Guðmundsdóttir, piano easter concert apologising to purveyors of smut? privacy of the consumer’s room. To ship and Draconian laws. Knowl- Hafliði Hallgrímsson ::: Metamorphoses Conductor ::: Hörður Áskelsson What next? Will we apologise to decide to cease doing that is purely edge and education are better Ludwig van Beethoven :: piano trio 1 & 2 Choir ::: Mótettukór Hallgrímsskirkju Claude debussy ::: piano trio Felix Mendelssohn ::: paulus Holocaust deniers if they are not image control. But they have a right tools. I think we should give the allowed to hold a conference here? not to host guests they deem inap- feminists a little more credit and a tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is or tel. 545 2500 Have we apologised for denying propriate. lot more respect, but that does not All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted. Jews to come here and seek ref- I hate generalizations but it mean we will agree with this new- uge, or apologised for trying to ban seems like there is a generation of est approach of trying to phase out African American GIs from coming men that have grown up and con- porn on the net and in shops. I my- onshore or leaving the base? sider it absurd for women to be op- self prefer a more direct approach Certain phrases and comments posed to being depicted as money- in my sex life rather than the pas- written by these people on the net shot recipients. Imagine growing sive approach of viewing porn on- strike me as amazingly simplistic up with your Barbie doll to aspire screen. Sadly, that does not ring and childish, including statements to, along with your pretty pink true for all, a fact I was reminded that Hotel Radisson’s decision was sheets and with a rosy dream of of when reading Silfur Egils on visir. “a black day in the history of Ice- becoming a beauty pageant queen net: “What about all us men that land,” thus putting it in the same and then when you have the nerve don’t get love, what are we sup- category as dates such as 1918, to question these things, being told posed to do?” How about watch- 1783 and 1262. The history books off for the audacity of being a radi- ing less porn and trying to get out in the next decades will be an in- cal feminist. It sort of reminds one some more?

F í t o n / S Í A WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS

fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS 12_RVK_GV_03_2007_OPINION Nothing but the Word By Gabriele R. Gudbjartsson

vey a variety of unknown words or phrases. In addition, the American en- tertainment industry also gives culturally offensive words a path- way into the vocabulary of a non- English speaker without any rhyme or reason. Last month one of my students used the word “nigger” out loud in a way that showed an eerie level of comfort in its delivery. Through this incident I saw an op- portunity to speak with well over one hundred students about the history and sheer abhorrence of us- ing the “n-word” in any way, shape or form. “Nigger” is a derogatory racial slur used mostly for insulting people of colour. Many students The first time I heard it used by a stood clueless about the long child I was quite shocked and a bit historical past this one word con- disturbed. Did that third grader tained. It is regarded as one of the just yell the f-word? After the ini- most offensive words in the English tial shock was over, I then began to language and is currently a hot top- analyse the way he said the word. ic on many U.S. political agendas in There was not the occasional fol- this time just after Black History low-up of “oops, sorry.” He said Month. Political figures such as Jes- it like a grown man witnessing his se Jackson are fighting for it to be favourite sports team losing the taken out of the entertainment in- championship in the final four sec- dustry all together, while New York onds of the game. It possessed a City has recently passed a symbolic We deliver it clean. level of maturity that you could only law on banning the word from its get from watching another person usage in films, music and everyday do it: that is, a professional. conversation. As one of few Afri- It’s unusual and frankly a little can-Americans living and teaching scary to find a country where so in Iceland, I am blessed to be in a many of its citizens pick up their position that enables me to edu- Have a dirty time! colloquial English skills solely from cate as many people as I can about watching American-made films the weight and cultural license of (Book our nice prices at www.sixt.is or call 540 2222) and television programmes. The verbalising certain words of power. media’s influence on the English As there are two sides to every language in Iceland penetrates coin, there are of course positives quite deeply into the voices of the in utilising television shows and younger generation. In my opin- films as teaching tools for English. ion it stands as the most dominant The benefits of acquiring English English instructor in the country skills through entertainment are and has given many Icelanders an two-fold. One, individuals develop advantage over many other coun- a firm grasp of how to communi- tries that struggle with appropriat- cate with confidence and at a suf- ing second languages. However, as ficient level. In my English classes it convenient and accessible as this is crystal clear which students have SÖNGLEIKURINN language teacher may be, there are spent a large amount of time in a few side effects that need to be front of the television versus those addressed. who have not. Although express- First and foremost, when an ing oneself thoroughly cannot be actor or actress says something attained, students who have been offensive on a television show or exposed to this visual and audio movie, the screen does not flash a component of learning over an im- Customers of Kaupthing can receive online service in four languages. Business in Kaupthings warning sign that reads, “Not suit- mense amount of time tend to be Netbank can be conducted in four languages: Icelandic, English, Danish and Polish. JÓNSSON able for everyday conversation.” the most proficient out of everyone EFTIR HUGLEIKÓRI: STEFÁN DAGSSON & FLÍS An obvious backlash from allow- in the group. Another benefit that LEIKSTJ ing the media to be your English television offers is that it provides Access to Kaupthings Netbank is free. Drop by your Kaupthing branch to apply for your own teacher is that it makes inappropri- an adequate comprehension level password. Then you can conduct your banking transactions on the Kaupthing Netbank and speak ate words seem fitting for casual of popular culture and cultural the language you prefer. conversation. Since television and norms that also flow into under- film have neglected their standards standing the language. Based on Kaupthings Netbank is simple and comfortable – any time, anywhere. in censoring expletives altogether, the fact that a language is not just many Icelanders do not understand words, but facial expressions, body the correct etiquette when utilis- language, humour, sarcasm and Flersproget bankservice Bankowość internetowa ing some of their English-speaking the like, many of these idiosyncra- Kaupthings Netbank på fire sprog w czterech językach skills. Most native English speak- sies are critical when communicat- ers would find it quite offensive ing in any circumstance. Kaupthings kunder kan få service på nettet og ordne Klienci Kaupthing mogą korzystać z usług internetow- to openly curse in the course of a So, did I write this piece to en- deres bankforretninger på fire sprog: islandsk, engelsk, ych w czterech językach. Operacje w Kaupthings Netbank chat. It sends a message that you courage more TV time or discour- dansk og polsk. przeprowadzać można w języku islandzkim, angielskim, do not respect the other person age it? The answer is neither. The duńskim oraz polskim. and their comfort level with swear- purpose is to inform those using Adgangen til Kaupthings Netbank er gratis. Det eneste ing. Openly cursing also reveals a the media as a teaching tool to also du skal gøre, er at kigge ind i den nærmeste filial af Kaupthing og få lavet et password. Derefter kan du ordne Dostęp do Kaupthings Netbank nie wymaga opłat. Wystarczy lack of sophistication on the part of be cautious as to what they are not dine bankforretninger i Netbanken i fred og ro på det odwiedzić swój oddział Kaupthing i wystąpić o indywidualne the speaker and gives the impres- learning. At the end of the day we sprog du ønsker. hasło. Można wtedy prowadzić wszystkie operacje w ramach sion that curse words are a mask must remember that the mission ENNEMM/SÍA/NM25710 Kaupthing Netbank w wybranym przez siebie języku. for an inadequate vocabulary and of the big screen is not to educate, Kaupthings Netbank er en simpel og nem måde at ordne therefore are being used to con- but to simply entertain. bankforretninger på —hvor og hvornår det skal være. Kaupthings Netbank jest prosty i wygodny – zawsze i wszędzie. HVAÐ ER AÐ GERAST? ER ALLT AÐ VERÐA VITLAUST?

Í tilefni 120 ára afmælis Landsbankans fá Námufélagar 35% afslátt af miðaverði á allar sýningar gegn framvísun Námukortsins. WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS

Miðasala í síma 551 1200 og á www.leikhusid.is NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS VORDAGSKRÁ FJALAKATTARINS 14_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_QUIZ/TOURISM KVIKMYNDAKLÚBBURINN FJALAKÖTTURINN JAMES DEAN 6aaVg bncY^g ?VbZh 9ZVc kZgÂV hÅcYVg {hVbi ]Z^b^aYVgbncY^cc^ :^a†[ ¨h`V hZb [_VaaVg jb ¨k^ What Kind of Tourist are You? Text by Haukur Magnússon Photos by Skari HEFUR SÝNINGAR Í ]Vchd\hiŽg[# It is sometimes said that the final and most telltale sign of a formerly ambitious and radical would now like to present to you, loyal reader, with our contribution to reinforcing the use- ÞRIGGJA GLJÚFRA STÍFLAN magazine’s complete and utter journalistic bankruptcy, is when its pages start filling with less, b/w mode of thought which claims that people can easily be categorised and divided HnhijgbncY^gcVg @nggbncY d\ 9dc\ \ZgVhi { mind-numbing personality quizzes. Keeping in with that spirit, the Reykjavík Grapevine into small groups of stereotypes. Enjoy! {]g^[Vhk¨Â^Z^ccVghi¨ghijhi†[aj]Z^bh†NVc\ioZ{cc^ †@†cV#H[nggcZ[cYV]Z[jg[Vg^Âh^\jg[Žgjb]Z^b^cc d\kVccb#V#VÂVakZgÂaVjc^c{`k^`bncYV]{i†Â^cc^† 1. Which of the following lyric-snippets do 5. Pick a hair-care product: 9. You feel most at home: vogur, right? ;ZcZn_jb# you most identify with? a) Shockwaves Xtrovert Styling Steel a) I do not subscribe to the capitalist-en- d) Do I absolutely have to? I’d really rather a) ‘Tschíúúíúú, wúúú, tsjíúhíu, sæææææ- b) ZIRH Crisp Powder Sticking Agent. forced/endorsed concept of ‘home’. not leave the 101 area. TJARNARBÍÓI RÚSSLAND FYRR OG NÚ ljóóóón’ c) Those miniature packets of shampoo and b) When surrounded by mirrors, girls and yghb{iin[^ga^in[^gghhcZh`V`k^`bncYVhŽ\j#Ik¨g b) ‘Coca-loca dancing like a maniac. Coca- conditioner you get at a hotel. They’re free, shiny metal poles. 13. Icelandic women are… bncYV 6cYgZ^ IVg`dkh`n kZgÂV hÅcYVg † WaVcY k^ loca dancing in the dance-room.’ you know. c) Amidst majestic mountains, glacial land- a) Allowed to vote since 1915. bncY^cV IgŽcjgcVg [a_\V [g{ &.*, d\ bncYVg^ccVg c) ‘Emotional landscapes, they puzzle me d) Some honey. scapes, rivers, trees, elves, etc. b) The most beautiful in the world. 9VjÂ^cc{[ZgÂhZbZg[g{{g^cj'%%)# – confuse.’ d) Jumping the queue at some trendmaster c) The most beautiful sluts in the world. d) I identify with mountains, not lyrics. 6. Pick an event: bar or club. People know me, you know. d) Elfin. ASTRID LINDGREN a) Iceland Airwaves. Á SUNNUDÖGUM H¨ch`^ WVgcVW‹`V]Ž[jcYjg^cc 6hig^Y A^cY\gZc 2. What is your favourite nature reserve? b) The ‘SnowGathering 2007’ int’l Pornog- 10. Whilst browsing the Mál & Menning 14. Your preferred wardrobe: Zg ÏhaZcY^c\jb V \‹Âj `jcc# Ï ad` Veg†a WÅÂjg a) The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. raphers Conference. bookstore, you realize you need something a) Anything Gore-Tex, some wool, fleece, ;_VaV`Žiijg^ccjee{cd``gVgbncYV]ZccVg# b) The Human Nature Reserve. c) The Hafnarfjörður Viking Festival. to read on your way home. Which of the etc. c) Will there be girls there? d) International Food and Fun. following books is most likely to wind up in b) A baseball cap. Some jeans. My leather JAPÖNSK ERÓTÍK d) I never reserve. I just show up and get a table. your carry-on bag: jacket. ÖgkVa a_‹hWa{ggV _VeVch`gV bncYV [g{ {iijcYV 7. Which of the following ‘Icelandic icons’ a) Nonni Und Manni: Die Nåchste Genera- c) Baggy hand-knit woollen sweaters and {gVij\cjb!ZcbncY^gV[ÄZhhjiV\^kdgjZ^c`ZccVcY^ 3. Whilst travelling the Ring Road, you hap- are you most familiar with? tion. pantaloons. { {`kZÂcj i†bVW^a^ † _VeVch`g^ `k^`bncYVhŽ\j d\ pen to hit one of those infamous jaywalking a) Björk Guðmundsdóttir, pop singer/com- b) Carry-on bags are so mid-90s. d) A weird hoodie and some skinny-jeans. & MÁNUDÖGUM ]V[Vh†ÂVcdgÂ^ÂVÂ]{a[\ZgÂjÈ`Žai¸"[ng^gW¨g^#=Zahi^ sheep. Your next step would be to… poser. c) The FHM Guide To Semi-Nude Girls, Elec- ‘Till May, at least. aZ^`hi_‹g^ÈWaZ^`jbncYVccV¸kVgIVihjb^@jbVh]^gd a) Drag the carcass into nature and perform b) Ólafur Ragnar Grimsson, the president of tronic Gadgets And Shit That Explodes. d\Äk†kZgÂVÄg_{gbncYV]VchhÅcYVg# a small ritual before respectfully burying it. Iceland. d) Exploring Vegan Cooking With Sigur Rós 15. Finally, why are you here?  b) B-B-Q! c) Hófí Karlsdóttir, Miss World 1985. & Friends. a) To experience the unspoiled nature and c) String it upside down in a small gallery. d) Those retarded kids from the Sigur Rós landscapes that inspired the ethereal sounds POURQUOI PAS? d) Hitchhikers don’t hit sheep, and neither videos. 11. Pick a drink: of múm, AmiinA and Sigur Rós. I might also FRÖNSK KVIKMYNDAGERÐ do mountain-bikers. a) Organic Cruelty-Free Fair Trade Whey try and stalk the latter’s studio for a couple ;gVch`^ `k^`bncYV\ZgÂVgbVÂjg^cc GVnbdcY 8. Your stance on whaling? Chai Soy Latte. of weeks. 9ZeVgYdcZgZ^cch{[gZbhi^{hk^Â^]Z^b^aYVgbncYV# 4. Which of the following entities would you a) Whales are for watching. And petting. b) Beer! b) To get laid. Don’t tell anyone I said that. Ï hVbhiVg[^ k^ bZcc^c\Vg]{i†Â^cV ÈEdjgfjd^ prefer to blow up? b) Reinstating whaling is typical for these c) Pure, glacier-strained, Icelandic Wasser. c) I’ve heard it’s a place to be. I also have EVh4¸ hÅc^g `aWWjg^cc {iiV bncYV ]Vch † ÄgZb a) The Kárahnjúkar Dam. And those Alcoa capitalist bastards who are intent on spoil- d) My favourite drink hasn’t been invented. some real edgy art/ music/ fashion acces- YV\h`g{g]ajijbhZbcZ[cVhiAZGZedgiZg!AZ?jhi^XZ Bastards. ing Iceland’s niche as an unspoiled haven, sories/ writing/ etc. that would really benefit d\AZBdcYZEVnhVc#6j`ÄZ^ggVkZgÂV[gVch`Vghijii" b) The remaining copies of my pre-fame the last bastion of unspoiled nature in 12. Your preferred daytrip out of Reykjavík: from less competition with my peers. There d\]Z^b^aYVgbncY^giZ`cVgi^ahÅc^c\V# B-class porn movie. Europe, etc., etc. a) The Golden Circle. are only 300,000 of you, right? SKRÁNING HAFIN Á c) Fireworks! c) Do whales make for good sushi? b) A spray-paint and explosive-laced trip to d) To bathe naked in natural hot springs. NÝJAR ÞÝSKAR d) I would like to blow up a balloon and d) Hehe… Free Willy! Hehehe. the Alcan aluminium factory in Hafnarfjörður. And steal some butter. FILMFEST.IS ÃÅh` `k^`bncYV\Zg Zg † b^`^aa^ jeehkZ^[aj c jb bounce it around somewhere in nature, That’ll show those nature-killing bastards. hijcY^g#Ìc¨hijb^hhZgjbhiZcYjgi^aVÂhÅcVWgdi preferably while naked. c) The Goldfinger Strip Club. That’s in Kópa- {]j\VkZgÂgVbncYVÄVÂVc#

15-24 25-36 37-50 50+

Gianni Schicchi og Suor Angelica www.opera.is eftir Giacomo Puccini f a b r i k n

The Classic Tourist/ Nature Fetishist The Eurohippie! The Trendy Tourist! The Dirty Weekender! You fall into the ‘classic’ category of Iceland’s A somewhat modernised version of the na- Congratulations! You are the trendy tourist God. Then there’s you. You are likely a de- tourist friends. Here since long before Björk ture fetishist, the Eurohippie started rearing type traveller, and thus probably the latest cent, hard working fellow lured to Iceland by sang her first notes and Reykjavík was any his dreadlocked head in Iceland sometime addition to Iceland’s foreigner fauna. And Reykjavík’s party-hard notoriety and some kind of attraction (or even had a café), your during the mid-nineties. The recent Kárahn- a true pioneer! You may have some ties to Tarantino/tourist board fuelled misconcep- Sýningardagar: kind has been cavorting in Iceland’s hills, júkar Dam dispute / Sigur Rós free concert Iceland’s music, fashion or arts scenes, and tions about the nature of Icelandic nightlife Einsöngvarar og hljóðfæraleikarar 21. mars kl. 20– frumsýning small towns and public pools longer than series accounts for a massive surge in their were most likely inspired to come here by and its female participants. Most often seen eru nemendur í tónlistarskólum 25. mars kl. 17 – 2. sýning most. Often operating on a budget, you may numbers lately, along with increased tofu- someone you met in Berlin or New York (or in groups, you will be drunk by 7pm, walking á höfuðborgarsvæðinu 27. mars kl. 20 – 3. sýning often be found hitch-hiking your way around sales. If the numbers place you in this group an article in one of those magazines that down Laugavegur wearing a Viking helmet 29. mars kl. 20 – 4. sýning the country, climbing mountains, sleeping in (and magazine lifestyle quizzes never lie), have almost no words in them). You count by 9pm, kinda let down by constant refusals Hljómsveitarstjóri: Daníel Bjarnason emergency shelters or sneaking single-serve chances are that you’ve studied liberal arts, Björk among your icons, but you also enjoy by midnight and a patron of one of the city’s Leikstjóri: Ingólfur Níels Árnason Miðaverð 1.000 kr. packets of butter into your pockets at break- experimented with various mind-altering several obscure things that are guaranteed to strip-clubs by 2am (at which point you will Leikmynd og búningar: fast buffets. You are most easily recognised substances and ideologies, and enjoy con- be all the rage shortly (at which point you will be too intoxicated to notice that the Icelandic Hlín Gunnarsdóttir by your brightly coloured all-weather ap- spiracy theories and acting as a conscience abandon them). Your feelings about Reykja- females you’re supposedly associating with Ljósahönnuður: parel. for the rest of us. You are most often recog- vík (101 Reykjavík) will be mixed, although all have thick Eastern-European accents). If Jóhann Bjarni Pálmason nisable by a weird hairstyle, earth-tone cloth- you will most likely enjoy the opportunities not staggering through downtown Reykjavík ing and some facial hair. for social climbing and to be instantly noto- with a Viking helmet on, you can be recog- rious in the 300-person scene (which may nised by an expensive watch and baseball- even prompt you to immigrate). You are eas- cap combo that nicely accents your leather- ily recognised, as you look, talk, sound and jacketed mid-life crisis. smell like next month is already here.

Glitnir er bakhjarl Key to calculating your score: 1. a) 2 b) 4 c) 3 d) 1 2. a) 1 b) 2 c) 4 d) 3 3. a) 2 b) 4 c) 3 d) 1 4. a) 2 b) 3 c) 4 d) 1 5. a) 4 b) 3 c) 1 d) 2 6.a) 3 b) 4 c) 1 d) 2 7. a) 3 b) 1 c) 4 d) 2 Óperustúdíós Íslensku óperunnar 8. a) 1 b) 2 c) 3 d) 4 9. a) 2 b) 4 c) 1 d) 3 10. a) 1 b) 3 c) 4 d) 2 11. a) 2 b) 4 c) 1 d) 3 12. a) 1 b) 2 c) 4 d) 3 13. a) 1 b) 3 c) 4 d) 2 14. a) 1 b) 4 c) 2 d) 3 15. a) 2 b) 4 c) 3 d) 1

miðasaLa s. 511 4200 miðasaLa opin aLLa daGa nema mánudaGa frá 14-18. Thanks to Elvis, Klapparstígur 25; Spúútnik, Laugavegur 20b; Cintamani, Laugavegur 11; Naked Ape, Bankastræti 14; for supplying clothes. &+TG:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%(T'%%,T;:6IJG:$BJH>8 G:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%(T'%%,T;:6IJG:$BJH>8T&,REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007 - - " info. Embassy Opening – NSK GusGus Release Gig There Were No Nightclubs Reykjavík FM 105 Kitchen Motors Nights Chaotic Brutality in Kling & Bang

Gallery Dwarf Film Club Fjalakötturinn Onetheclearestof signsdegenerationof whenis Pourquoi Pas? TheIs the ultimate message of GusGus then that of Advanced“Well, I guess you could call it that. Liberation Way to well as the music to the edge of reason. And people fuckin’ dig that. Understand?” 9Z\ZcZgVi^dc Earlier in our talk, Veira spoke an ofunderlying degenerationtheme or concept as he had wanted for the album. When pressed on the subject, he his relays vision of the state of the thatwestern it has world reached today, its peak and is slowly but deterioratingsurely and degenerating right now. seen “We’ve this happen with every great culture,” he says. “Our grip on the world is declining. Something will replace it, but we don’t know what. That’s causing a lot of anxiety in society. People are afraid of the idea of anarchy, of the unknown and of each other, and that causes countries like the US to react violently to ensure their place in this faltering world. People are naturally scared, that’s a normal phase. societies lose their value know systems;what our values we are anymore. don’t 150 years even it agowas very clear what we stood for and would fight butfor, the lines have blurred and a lack of direction has taken their place. This makes people scared, as I said, but it also invites for new ways of doing things. What’s happening is the degeneration of the old, an invitationand achance to try something new.Really, the parties in Rome were probably never duringas the last fundays of the empire.as One of the things we’re saying in our music is: anything goes. Listen to your heart.” escapism, of dancing while the city burns? from the fear of change. Even thoughlot of therescary thingsare going a on in the world as it day isyou can’tto be afraid of finding your own ways, of being true to yourself and independent of reigningforces and values. There’s nothing more to be found there, we need something new, and in order to liberatedbeneeddegento weandolddothatthe from erated.” GusGus will celebrate the release of Forever with live showa at Nasa on March 24. www.gusgus.com www.myspace.com/gusgus

Experience Art Complete- Programme:- French Film- Festival- Aldrei- Fór Ég Suður- Music, Art, Films and Events Listings Every member of GusGus, or just people in gen “Every person, of course [laughs]. We are all a “You try and create something new while on interview,whereBank & Klinkour to talkthe turn I idea that every person is a saint…” eral? part of God, you know. Not made by have him, a partbut in him,we in the divine. We all keep a part theof divine within ourselves. And this whyisweare all saints, and we need to see ourselves as such,respect to each other and ourselves.” I]Z:Y\Zd[GZVhdc Our talk somehow shifts to Gusgus’ notorietylive act.as Theira hometown shows, which usually take place at downtown club NASA,their party are hearty infamous atmosphere for and have surpassedlong anysince cult status bestowed upon the (thatsellsband around 1.000copies itsof each release do mestically), selling out every single time. thatthebandmealways effort putsoflot a Veiraeachinto tells concert it throws, and that they many differentiate techno bands’ from live sets by keeping it organic, sospeak.to usually“I haveeach part givenaof song available while on stage, that way I can mix and ex tend the track in accordance with room, so I thecan interact with the vibe crowd. of the stagegoingnotsettimeline.a thatbyway, Theinter actionbetween [Gusgus singer] Earth, Stebbi, myself and the crowd along with that freedom means that every show is a bit different something and new going there’s on. Therefore, invariablyit’s always very excitingto play the songs, like ‘what’ll come out of it now?’ every single night. And sometimes, when you manage to ride a successful combo to you newwind uppeaks, stepping back and going: Yes! Something awesome just happened.” theirthattoldmeliveshowsharedhe influences with sleaze-rockers Trabant. certain“A atmosphere came to be through the Klink & Bank wing we shared with thelikes ofandTrabant Ghostigital, one that defined a live show as the best place to explore the limits of the music you’re creating. Everything’s at yourgertips at fin a live show: you have the powerful sound system, the pulsating crowd and sweaty performers – the moment is now. And that creates a need to do something unique, to blossom, more than fiddling in the studio ever will. You try and take the show as ------“With those that keep searching, the music seemsmusic searching, the keep thatthose “With Veiratells me that while ithas always been parta search for the boundaries of creation, rather opting to manoeuvre their beats so they’ll work in the club. usuallythathitsounds geta the You’ll others like and is catchy for a few plays, but has no real becauselongevity, nothing special was put into it. Even if it is a great song. to have more ingredients; their music always longerhas lifespan.a Last year saw a sort-of revolution in German minimal-techno that’s really influenced the sound that’s in vogue right now. And that sound is in the vein of some of our songs from 2004, for no particular reason, except maybe that we never chase trends or make music using that’s the ‘hip’ right now. soundWe use the orsame instruments rhythm thatwe used in ’92, we do things on our own terms, coincidencepureis itandsuit whatcomesthatis out able for clubs. It’s because I am a sucker for rhythms that tear your body apart.” BdgZ@^hhi]Vc@gV[ilZg`4 GusGus seems a very trendy and fashionable band. Just witness the accompanyingthey are in all likelihood pictures. the trendiest bunch In of hip ster fact, thirtysomethings in Reykjavík, nay all of Iceland (Björk has turned 40, and she tutionis thanmore a of person).an GusGusinsti make hipster music,which in turn gets played at hipster clubs. They wear hipster clothing. They have hipster names. They have hipster haircuts, and those of them that grow facial hair grow it in a hipster fashion. Of course, this says nothing about the band or its music. If it there did, wouldthen be little more to say. centuatesButthat GusGus hasan evolved and thisseemingly fact ac thought-outimageappeal, unusualtheirfor brand of techno, which has throughout the years been decid edlyanti-celebrity. MoreKissKraftwerkthan termsin of presenting themselves, as is evident on the cover of Forever, where each member is presented iconic fashion.in an of dance music dogma that fans should experience and celebrate the music rather than its makers, the band has always had fun playing around with theirimage on album covers, etc. “Trying to personify the music, characterise it. The idea with the icons is not exactlyclaimabe toworshipped. It’smore anat like tempt to personify us in this way, and to convey the - - - - He tells me that many of the songs off the 2004 “Well, it’s true that things get dated very fast in PresidentBongo] was DJ-ing in Russia at some point. We’ve had a fair amount of success there and in the eastern bloc – too bad that the salesthere profitrarely finds its way back fromto us – so people album outsideclubupliningthe were and was hewho knew he was playing. As he was passing theone from there shouted line, ‘GusGus forever!’ someHence the name. I take it as a compliment thought thatto it has its placeour in eternity.” music, the G]ni]bhi]ViIZVg7dY^Zh6eVgi As for the delayed release, Veira explains that band members’ pregnancies are mostly to blame. “And expensivefull-timeanI have a have Ijob, lifestyle now, and a family to support. No use any playing more.” bohemianHe adds that the band actually album hadready anfor release in the summer of 2004. “It was ready and we were intent on putting it out, but I ultimately felt it wasn’t… enough. It album. was My a good wife says it was material great hadn’t advanced and enough from all.what we did But the on [2002’s] Attention, more like a spin-offalbum. I of wanted that to go further. I had conceptinmind, a which was ‘degeneration’, and feltI very strong we hadn’t gotten that tone just right then by we then. did, But and Forever is exactly supposedthe to be.” way it was version show up on Forever unchanged.as the forum GusGus However, have been affiliated with since evolving from the nine-person art as troupe is it ever began changing and, well, fickle,question thisif thosebegs songsthe are still relevant GusGustoday. simplyAre so ahead of the times that they defy trends, or make them, rather than follow? Veira has thought about this too. thisscene.Those whoputsomething outthat’sremi niscentlastof year’s sound get dismissed immediate can You ly. divide those who make our kind of music intotwo groups, what you maycall pioneers and fol lowers. The line between the two is vague, thebut for purpose of the topic, we peoplecould say working that within some the field creating are in their exploring music, just as andany artist would. And then there are the producers, whose aim is rather to make a cool song for the club, what’s in right at now the cost of their own voice. They feel no need to - - - -

(aldrei fór ég suður) The Biggest Little Music Festival in the World Programmer Birgir Þórarinsson (usually referred Playing me songs, humming melodies, explaining After a polite laugh, he answers; “No, the sto Icelandic dance music pioneers GusGus recently re leased their long-awaited fourth full-length itstracksEntitledbeenofForever,album. have GusGusmany driving Reykjavík clubs wild for a longing up anticipation withtime, the city’s dance-crazedbuild kids. Now, they rejoice. The Grapevine sat down them oneto discuss Forever, of their music, their live shows and to take part in the imminent hype-fest. The end was near and the turned heat off by hadthe time I alreadyvisited the GusGus been studio in the now-defunct Klink & Bank art factory, the place where most of their new LP, GusGus conceived. It Forever, was autumn was of 2005 and Klink & Bank was to close down in a matter of weeks. There were quiet streams of people all over; architectsand gathering musicians, packingand theproducts of artists their labour and the tools of their trade to be moved to strange new locations. toas Biggi Veira in GusGus paraphernalia) welcomed me to GusGus’ part of Klink and Bank and told aboutme their recently finished album, the sounds that inspired it and the tools used to make it. He did this for well over two hours, regardless of the cold, and of the fact that he was squeeze veryme in for busy half an and hour. That couldparticular onlyrant started, like most good monologues, with a question.stupid “What does this thing do?” pointedI at a strangeasked looking deck ofand some sorts that had a seemingly infinite number of brightly coloured cords coming out of it. He proceeded to tell me and didn’t really stop after that. the workings of various transistors, oscillators, filters and gates, he just kept on going. I remember think ing that any musical outfit that has him aboard need notworry about their creative side. His sheer interest and involvement – his passion for the music, if pardonthe cliché you –struck me then, as would it strike me when I next sat down for an interview with him nearlytwo yearsThealbum later. that wasreportedly completed two years ago was just seeing a release. This fact invites the amazingly bad pun of askingit’s calledif Forever because it took that long to come out. ry with the name is that Stebbi [Stephensen, AKA

NASA – 24 March On the Radio – 10 March

GusGus Release Gig Reykjavík FM 105

Party-group GusGus is now cel- is also seeing the release of his March 10, a new progressive rock preneurs at heart, started their ebrating the release of its fifth first album, Easily Ticked, released station will hit the airwaves, with own station, which will return to studio album, Forever, inviting ev- with GusGus’s record company the addition of Reykjavík FM 105. the airwaves some of Iceland’s eryone interested to join in on the Pineapplerecords. There will only Former employees of the recently most popular DJs, such as Ómar rush with a grand show at NASA, be a limited amount of tickets, so closed XFM 91.9 radio station, a Bonham, Dr. Gunni and Stjáni Saturday March 24th. It will be the hurry, you won’t want to miss out successful radio venture that was Stuð; and popular shows, such as band’s first concert in Iceland for on this extravaganza! bought and quickly liquefied by the Capone Brothers, the hardcore a year. Tickets can be bought at Skífan the 365 Media conglomerate in show Dordingull, the indie show This event happens to be a record store, BT and at www.midi. order to make room for their own Threads, plus a new football show, double celebration party, as the is. The concerts start at 23:00. competing X-ID 97.7 rock station, hosted by fotbolti.net. opening act of the night, Pet- are responsible for the venture. ter Winnberg (also known as NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2. Not happy with being put off Hjálmar’s groovin’ bass player), the air, the staff, obviously entre-

Reykjavík Academi – 22 March at 14:00 Gallery Kling & Bang – 17 March - 15 May Embassy Opening – NSK Chaotic Brutality in Kling & Bang March 22, the Icelandic embassy of passports and soon consulates and interested in the impossibility of ori- The Reykjavik Museum of Photography National Theatre Basement – Mar 28 and 29 Gallery Kling & Bang presents the about the world and reinterpreting skill, body parts are being cut-off the NSK State will be formally ope- embassies started appearing across ginality, as can be seen for example opening of two exhibitions on common understandings about and placed into modules in order to ned with a lecture and ceremony the world, from Belgium to Beijing. in how laibach recycles and trans- March 17th with an opening party our surroundings. This newest determine the Optimal Formula.” at the Reykjavík Akademy. Dr. Ale- Today NSK has more citizens than forms classic pop songs or how There Were No Nightclubs Kitchen Motors Nights starting at 17:00 inside its premises. project of his, a very artistic horror Alejandro Vidal’s exhibition xei Monroe, Phd in cultural theory the Vatican. Everyone can apply for Irwin, the painting division, blends These are the works of the highly movie where Bock finds himself features a selection of video and studies from the University of Kent, a passport, regardless of race or re- Slovenian national landscape ima- Is this your father smoking a pipe If the museum has a portrait of Art group, music collective and Icelandic artists and Kitchen Mo- respected German multi-media under the influence of little girl, photographic works where he leads will introduce the essence and arti- ligion. ges into catholic iconography and at the age of three? The above your great grandfather they’ll record label Kitchen Motors has tors founders Kira Kira and Jóhann artist John Bock and Spanish artist Lütte, who is practising para- us through the streets of Hong stic energy of the NSK State. NSK’s five departements have a Stalinist propaganda imagery. picture is taken by Karl Christian make you a copy. It is located at organized three different music Jóhannsson. Monade is the project Alejandro Vidal. In their projects, voodoo, is no exception. The press Kong, explores how violent deaths NSK (Neue Slowenishe Kunst), long history of mixing art, totalitarian On March 22, the national ho- Nielsen in 1949 and is one of four the top floor of the City Library nights during the Pourquoi Pas? of former Stereolab singer Laetitia although very different in form and release reads that in the film; “John turn into rituals and questions the was fomed in Ljubljana, Slovenia in ideology and propaganda. The core liday of NSK.is, citizens welcome million photographs at the Reykja- in Reykjavik, and is goldmine for festival. Kitchen Motors has always Sadier. presentation, they both deal with Bock is being remote-controlled relationship between policies of 1984, when the experimental mu- of the collective, which makes up this to witness the most consistently vík Museum of Photography. The people interested in the history of emphasised exceptional artist col- For the second part of this the topic of violence in some very by the paranormal powers of security and the culture of fear in sic group Laibach and their artistic virtual state, has it’s own “constitu- challenging artistic force in Eastern archives consist of photographs photography, featuring pictures, laborations with the aim of mixing interesting collaboration, Örvar gory and demonstrative ways. the Lütte and driven towards three different projects that unite in collaborators declared NSK an in- tion of membership and basic du- Europe today. Ambassade d’NSK from the period 1870 until 2002 glassplates, negatives and slides, together artists from diverse back- from múm, Alex Somers and Kira In the gallery’s basement, heinous acts. Thus the body of the groundfloor showroom under dependent state - “The first Global ties of NSK members” - something in Iceland operates as an individual taken by both professional and and articles and documents relat- grounds to create experimental Kira will perform the Helvítis Plinki Bock’s film Lütte mit Rucola his victim is being deconstructed the banner Blackout For Death. state of the universe” - not of ter- that is deliberately reminiscent of unit, and utilizes and recycles the amateur photographers. ing to photography.EMF productions breaking all boundar- Plonk Symphony on March 29th (Li’l One with Arugula) will be and diagrams installed on it, and Both exhibitions will be on display ritory, but rather a “virtual state in the charters of medieval guilds, energy pumping out the “Eastern Interested in knowing what ies. along with the French-Icelandic screened. Bock is known for being he conducts various tests and until May 15th. time”. Laibach later became a sub- cults and fraternities, and also evo- Barbarian” art scene. Reykjavik looked like hundred The Reykjavik Museum of Photog- This project’s first event fea- Symphony. unpredictable, presenting works analyses. Decision-modules are division of their own creation as kes totalitatarian depersonalizati- years ago, and missed the out- raphy, Tryggvagata 15, 6ht floor, tures a collaboration of the French that are a mix of pseudo-scientific, being positioned on the body for Gallery Kling & Bang, Laugavegur the musical arm of NSK. The State on. For more details, visit: www.akade- door exhibition last summer? 101 Reykjavik. group Monade playing with French National Theatre Basement, Hverfis- aesthetic, social and political determination of analytic truths. 23, www.this.is/klingogbang. Machine began issuing stamps and NSK has always been especially mia.is Want to find old family portraits? singer and writer Angil and the gata 19. Concerts start at 22:00. commentary when telling stories Brutally, but endued with technical

If you would like to be included A true jazz club featuring live gigs with Sat 10.03 DJ Andrea Jóns for at the moment. Wed 28.03 DJ Pétur Thu 22.03 DJ Kacoon Tryggvagata 15 Bæjarháls 1 www.3frakkar.com/galleryufur.php Spanning the history of aviation from in the Grapevine listings, free of some of Iceland’s finest jazzists almost Wed 08.03 Drep Fri 09.03 Touch followed by DJ Maggi Fri 30.03 Don Balli Funk Fri 23.03 DJ Danni Deluxe Mon. 10-21, Tue.-Thu. 10-19, Fri. 11- Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 In March the first aeroplane made by Clément charge, contact the Grapevine by every night of the week. Thu 15.03 Grasrætur in concert Sat 10.03 Helgi Valur followed by DJ Sat 31.03 DJ Árni Sveins Sat 24.03 DJ Andi + DJ Benni B-Ruff 19, Sat. and Sun. 13-17 www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Guðmundur Ármann exhibition Ader until the last plane conceived email at [email protected]. Fri 09.03 Hrafnaspark play Django-jazz Fri 16.03 Atómstöðin + DJ’d Rod and Maggi Laugardalshöll Thu 29.03 DJ Palli Maus www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Artwork owned by Reykjavík Energy. Gel Gallerí by Airbus, the A380. (Pourquoi Pas? Sat 10.03 Hrafnaspark play Django- Stuard Wed 14.03 Reykjavík Grapevine pres- Wed 28.03 Sir Cliff Richard in conceert Fri 30.03 Playmobile + DJ Gunni Stef Until 15 Mar Gallery Fold Hverfisgata 37 Festival) Music jazz Sat 17.03 DJ Andrea Jóns ents: Take me Down to Reykjavík City Loftkastalinn Sat 31.03 DJ Andi + DJ Gulli Ósóma Exhibition of artworks selected Rauðarárstígur 14-16 Mon.-Fri. 10-19 Icelandic Labour Union’s Art Bar 11 Wed 14.03 Andrés Þór jazz trio Wed 21.03 Weapons + guests concert series. Sprengjuhöllin + guests. Seljavegur 2 Sirkus by author and filmmaker Þráinn Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Sat. 10-17 Gallery Laugavegur 11 Thu 15.03 Fabúla in concert Fri 23.03 Light’s on the Highway in Starts at 21:00 Sat 31.03 Iceland’s Battle of the Bands: Klapparstígur 30 Bertelsson. The short-film Hvalalíf Sat. 11-16 From 16 Feb Freyjugata 41 A popular hangout for Reykjavík’s Fri 16.03 Theatre performance: concert followed by DJ’s Rod and Fri 16.03 Gotti and Eisi followed by DJ Finals Playing reggae, country and occasion- by Kristján Loðmfjörð, based on Sun. 14-16 Alex Zaklynsky exhibition Tue.-Sun. 13-17 rockers and their young idolaters with Remba. Starts at 21:00 Stuard Johnny Nasa ally hosting at least one live gig on Bertelsson’s movie Nýtt Líf will be www.myndlist.is Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Free Entrance DJ’s playing classic rock‘n’roll hitters. Sat 17.03 Theatre performance: Sat 24.03 Grasrætur + DJ Andrea Jóns Sat 17.03 Public followed by DJ Jón Thorvaldsenstræti 2 weekdays, Sirkus’s veteran techno DJs premiered. Selling a large selection of Icelandic Gerðuberg 3-5 23 Feb – 25 Mar Fri 09.03 Atómstöðin and South Coast Remba. Starts at 21:00 Fri 30.03 Wulfgang in concert followed Gestur Sat 17.03 Hjálmar in concert keep the party going until morning on Aurum and international art and hosting Mon.-Thu. 11-17 Exhibition of Etienne de France Killing Company in concert. Followed Thu 22.03 Rósin Okkar play Irish and by DJ’s Rod and Stuard Fri 23.03 Touch followed by DJ Maggi Thu 22.03 Lay Low + guests weekends. Bankastræti 4 exhibitions on a regular basis. Wed. 11-21 (Pourquoi Pas? Festival) by DJ Óli Dóri Icelandic folk music Sat 31.03 DJ Andrea Jóns Sat 24.03 Glódís and bluesband fol- Sat 24.03 GusGus release concert Fri 09.03 DJ Árni Sveins Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Gallerí Sævars Karls Thu.-Fri. 11-17 3 Mar – 25 Mar Sat 10.03 Ten Steps Away + guests Fri 23.03 James Lowe + Gunnar Valur, Domo lowed by DJ Maggi Wed 04.04 Blonde Redhead + Reykja- Sat 10.03 DJ Þórhallur Sat. 11-16 Bankastræti 7 Sun-Sat. 13-16 Veðurfar / Climate followed by DJ Gulli Ósóma followed by Misery Loves Company Þingholtsstræti 5 Fri 30.03 Touch followed by DJ Johnny vík! + Kristin Hersh Wed 14.03 DJ Jason www.aurum.is Mon.-Fri. 10-18 www.gerduberg.is Guðrún Kristjánsdóttir exhibition Fri 16.03 Who Knew + guests followed Sat 24.03 James Lowe + Gunnar Valur, Tue 03.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival Sat 31.03 Menn ársins followed by DJ Nordica Hotel Thu 15.03 DJ Frosti Gringo The Einar Jónsson Museum Sat. 10-16 3 Feb – 15 Apr Kling & Bang Gallery by DJ Palli Maus followed by Misery Loves Company Wed 04.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival: Johnny Suðurlandsbraut 2 Fri 16.03 DJ Gísli Galdur Eiríksgata www.saevarkarl.is/gsm/ Tími – Afstæði – Gildi/ Time Laugavegur 23 Sat 17.03 DJ Gulli Ósóma Thu 29.03 Sváfnir + Halli Kentár Wed 04.04 Touch followed by DJ Jón Tue 03.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival: KK Sat 17.03 DJ Skeletor Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Gallery Tukt – Relativity – Relevance Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Fri 23.03 DJ Gulli Ósóma Fri 30.03 Rúnar Þór + band Thu 05.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival Gestur + Andrea + Jolly Jumper & Big Moe Thu 22.03 DJ Chuck www.skulptur.is Pósthússtræti 3-5 Rúrí retrospective. Free Entrance Sat 24.03 DJ Óli Dóri Sat 31.03 Rúnar Þór + band Fri 06.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival Fri 06.04 DJ Maggi Wed 04.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival: Fri 23.03 DJ Tommi White Permanent exhibition www.hitthusid.is Gyllinhæð www.this.is/klingandbang Fri 30.03 DJ Palli Maus Wed 04.04 B3 Trio in concert Fríkirkjan Church Sat 07.04 DJ Maggi Ronnie Baker Brooks + Kentár Sat 24.03 DJ Jón Atli The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson From 24 Feb Laugavegur 23 17 Mar – 15 Apr Sat 31.03 DJ Gulli Ósóma Thu 05.04 Sökudólgarnir in concert Laufásvegur 13 Kaffibarinn Thu 05.04 Reykjavík Blues Festival: Zora Wed 28.03 Madchester.is The Culture House Margrét Agnes Iversen and Ásta Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Li’l One with Arugula Café Amsterdam Fri 06.04 Helgi Valur in concert 06.04 Lay Low in concert Bergstaðastræti 1 Young & Blue Ice Band + Lay Low Fri 30.03 Sirkus DJ Hverfisgata 15 Fanney Sigurðardóttir exhibition Students from the second year of the John Bock film project Hafnarstræti 5 Sat 07.04 Helgi Valur in concert Háskólabíó With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- Prikið Sat 31.03 DJ President Bongo Open daily 11-17 Gallery Turpentine Art Academy 17 Mar – 15 Apr Wed 04.04 Reykjavík Grapevine Christ’s Church Hagatorg hop and classic dance hitters, the DJs Bankastræti 12 www.thjodmenning.is Ingólfsstræti 5 i8 Gallery Blackout For Death presents: Take me Down to Reykjavík Hávallagata 16 Sat 10.03 The Icelandic Symphony are usually capable of crowding the This old coffeehouse turns into a hip- Art Permanent Exhibits Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Klapparstígur 33 Alejandro Vidal exhibition City concert series. Aldrei fór ég suður Sat 17.03 Victoria Requiem: Carmina Orchestra: Family Concert dance floor each weekend and getting hop mania at weekends where not 101 Gallery Medieval Manuscripts; The National Sat. 11-16 Tue.-Fri. 11-17 Living Art Museum sneak peak featuring Mínus, Pétur Chamber Choir. Tickets at the 12 Tónar Thu 15.03 The Icelandic Symphony the regulars frisky at weekdays. only DJs but also drummers and bass- Hverfisgata 18 Museum – as it was; The Library www.turpentine.is Sat. and by appointment 13-17 Laugavegur 26 Ben, FM Belfast, shop, Skólavörðustíg 15. Orchestra concert Fri 09.03 DJ Alfons X ists create a crasy pit at the dancefloor. Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment Room; The Road to Zion; Berlin From 16 Feb www.i8.is Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Skúli Þórðarson & Sökudólgarnir and Sun 18.03 Victoria Requiem: Carmina Thu 22.03 The Icelandic Symphony Sat 10.03 DJ Árni Sveins Fri 09.03 Franz and Kristó followed by www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Excursion The Kodak Moments Háskólabíó Movie Theatre Thur 13-22 Lay Low. Starts at 21:00. Chamber Choir.. Tickets at the 12 Orchestra concert Wed 14.03 DJ Maggi Legó DJ Benni B-Ruff Until 29 Mar Dwarf Gallery Hallgrímur Helgason exhibition Hagatorg www.nylo.is/ Café Cultura Tónar shop, Skólavörðustíg 15. Thu 29.03 The Icelandic Symphony Thu 14.03 DJ Pétur Sat 10.03 DJ Andri + DJ Kári Von / Hope Grundarstígur 21 From 16 Feb www.haskolabio.is Until 18 Mar Hverfisgata 18 Dillon Orchestra concert Fri 16.03 Don Balli Funk Wed 14.03 DJ Kvikindi Rakel Gunnarsdóttir exhibition Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18-20 Cadavres Exquis: Remnants of 1 Mar – 31 Mar Presque Rien Music from the world’s four corners Laugavegur 30 Hressó Sat 17.03 DJ Benni B-Ruff Thu 15.03 DJ Palli Maus Anima Gallery www.this.is/birta Existence The Plane: how does it work? A contemporary art exhibition with Fri 09.03 DJ Playmobile Legendary rock pub featuring live Austurstræti 20 Wed 21.03 DJ Maggi Legó Fri 16.03 Blautt Malbik Ingólfsstræti 8 / Lækjargata 2 16 Feb – 17 Mar Monika Tess exhibition An exhibition presenting the evolution works of French artists like Robbert Sat 10.03 DJ Kristín concerts every Wednesday night and Here, troubadours play sing-along Thu 22.03 DJ Árni Sveins Sat 17.03 DJ’s KGB, Kári and Árni Tue.-Sat. 13-17 Video-work by Unnur Andrea Gallery Úlfur of aeronautical science and technology Filliou & Joachim Pfeufer, Michel Blazy, Café Rósenberg rock DJ’s every weekend. hitters until midnight followed by DJs Fri 23.03 DJ Alfons X Sveins www.animagalleri.is Einarsdóttir Baldursgata 11 through the pioneers and the Rebecca Bournigault, Jean-Baptiste Lækjargata 2 Fri 09.03 Noise + DJ Andri Freyr playing whatever the crowd is aching Sat 24.03 Kaffibar DJ Wed 21.03 DJ Kvikindi Artótek Gallery 100 Degrees Mon.-Fri. 13-18. discoveries that defined its history. Bruant & Maria Spangaro, Clôde B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_LISTINGS_B5

Next Months Program:

Sunday, March 11 15.00 The Rider Named Death 17.00 The Cranes Are Flying 19.00 Rebel Without a Cause 21.15 Solaris

Monday, March 12 17.00 Andrei Rublev 20.00 Reykjavik Documentary Workshop: I for India 22.00 East of Eden

Sunday, March 18 15.00 East of Eden 17.15 Forever Young 19.00 The Cranes Are Flying 21.00 East of Eden

Monday, March 19 19.00 Forever Young Gallery Dwarf 21.00 Rebel Without a Cause Tjarnarbíó Sunday, March 25 Watch your Head, the Exhibition is in the Basement 17.00 Twisted Path of Love Film Club Fjalakötturinn 19.00 The Woman With Red Hair Artist Birta Guðjónsdóttir saw her in Laugavegur went bankrupt or Dwarf Gallery came along.“ without any dependence on, or called misfits, bums, drag queens, 21.00 World of Geisha basement as an opportunity to relocated, so we would ask the The gallery seems to only be claim of, a third party of any kind. the mentally disturbed, gypsies and “The selection of films in Icelandic The idea is to present Icelanders sen in cooperation with local academ- contribute to the Reykjavik art scene owners of these empty spaces if open a few months a year. How will That’s a situation which creates a those who have been wrongly named cinemas is poor to say the least. Sure, with quality films from all over the ics,” Atli says. Monday, March 26 and started the Dwarf Gallery. we could borrow one for half a the public know when there is an different artistic atmosphere to the freaks. Siamese twins, dwarfs (I will we get all the blockbusters a week or world, to improve the variety of films Nearly 30 films will constitute the 19.00 World of Geisha For the past five years Saturday. We would then invite exhibition going on? commercial one.” not ask the obvious question: if we two ahead of Europe, but that hardly on offer. “We see ourselves partly as club’s spring program and all screen- 21.00 The Woman With Red Hair Guðjónsdóttir has been renting as many artists as possible, by any “I send out emails and distribute Guðjónsdóttir invites artists will be seeing dwarfs at the Dwarf counts as an important contribution educators, so we try to present clas- ings are without intermission and a small flat at Grundarstígur 21 in means, to put up their works two small photocopied posters and to display their works without Gallery, go and see for yourself), to film culture,” says Atli Bollason, one sics both from American and Euro- lengthy trailers. To enlist, visit www. Sunday, April 1 101 Reykjavík. Included in the rent hours before the exhibition would flyers in cooperation with the charging for the exhibition space, albinos, midgets, or people that are of the founders of the Fjalakötturinn pean cinema, but we’re also highlight- filmfest.is. Membership cost is 4000 15.00 The Woman With Red Hair is a 12m2 basement, which turns open. We did this one day a month exhibiting artists. It also helps that energy bills or such and assists somehow physically deformed are Film Club, established by the Reykja- ing little known facets of film history, krónur and gives access for one person 17.00 Kviksaga Introduces: into an exhibition space, the Dwarf for almost a year and paid out of word of mouth spreads fast in a them with getting the materials and common characters in her works. vík International Film Festival. The club such as the Nikku Roman Porno films to all the films shown on the spring Narrative Culture and Opposition in Modern Cities Gallery, for a few months a year. our own pockets to make flyers, small community like Reykjavík. equipment needed. The artists then She is also a musician and a member will be screening movie classics at the - Japanese erotic films from the 70s. schedule, as well as discount charges 19.00 Still Life The name explains itself when you bake pancakes and make coffee for Those who might be interested do what ever they want with the of the band Dr. Disco Shrimp. The historical Tjarnabíó cinema every Sun- When it comes to new films which for the Reykjavík International Film 21.15 Dong visit, so watch your head. the guests. One of these shows was will notice it, I think. The good part space, without her creative input. exhibition will be open until the 17th day and Monday evening until May. make up just as much of our selection Festival in September and October. When asked how the idea of called We bid Farewell, consisting of about the location is that a lot of “None of us earn money from of March or by appointment (write “Films made outside of Califor- we try to go for films that touch on The restaurant Fjalakötturinn in Aðal- Monday, April 2 starting a gallery in her basement works from Icelandic artists living people just wander by and check this activity, but I get a lot out of it, to [email protected]). nia hardly ever make it to the silver hot topics. For example we’ll screen a stræti will offer special discounts for 17.00 World of Geisha came about, she refers to Iceland abroad. Dwarf Gallery contributes it out. It is located in a pedestrian because I invite artists whose works Ellen Marie Fodstad screen in the mainstream cinemas so pair of Chinese films that take place members, including two beers for the 19.00 Twisted Path of Love being a creative nation where things to the art life of Reykjavik. This is area in the centre, so many of the I am interested in, I learn from the we decided to widen the range of in a part of China heavily influenced price of one on club screening days. 21.00 Muslims and Christians like that tend to happen: “In 2002 a always needed, everywhere, and a visitors wander in by chance, which collaboration and it involves a level Birta Guðjónsdóttir’s own artwork the Reykjavik International Film Festi- by the building of the Three Gorges Individual tickets for the club’s screen- group of artists and myself started good cause I think. When I organise is very nice. People have asked me if of creative work,” she explains. can be seen at Listasafn Reykjavikur val by offering such movies regularly. Dam in the Yangtze river - Still Life and ings are available for the regular movie Monday, April 9 a project we called ‘open gallery’; some Dwarf activity, I don’t do it or when I will expand into a bigger, Right now the Dwarf gallery is at the moment. Tjarnarbíó seemed a great venue, the Dong. Hopefully, these two films can price of 900 krónur at the ticket office 15.00 Astrid Lindgren organizing monthly exhibitions, because I feel that something is commercial gallery. It will not showing videowork by Unnur house has character, the screening help us see the Kárahnjúkar Dam in a in Tjarnarbíó. SBB 17.00 Twisted Path of Love which lasted for one day, wherever missing here, it is more because of happen, because with the current Andrea Einarsdóttir. The Icelandic The Dwarf Gallery, Grundar-stígur room is quite big - but not too big - new light and help us deal with what’s 19.00 Still Life we could find some free space in having the space to do it and with situation, I can invite artists of my performance and video artist says 21, 101 Reykjavik. www.this.is/ and it’s completely independent of the to come. We also have quite a lot of For more info and a full programme, 21.15 Dong the centre. At that time many shops that, an idea about starting the own choice and work with them she gets her inspiration from so- birta. distributors,” Atli continues. documentaries on our schedule, cho- visit: www.filmfest.is.

Coulpier, François Curlet, Gérald, Sigtún 10 Feb – 2 Sep Austurmörk 2, Hveragerði photos from last year. inspired by the life of the country’s Breaking and Entering before when meeting an impulsive couple decides to hit the road Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Philippe Meste, Hugues Reip and Jean- Open daily 10-16 K-Þátturinn / The K-Factor Mon.-Fri. 15-19 Until 18 Mar dictator Idi Amin and his brutal Set in London’s King’s Cross, this teenage girl. O’Toole has received and enjouy the pleasure of school 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 Michel Wicker. (Pourquoi Pas? Festival) Admission ticket is valid for three days Jóhannes S. Kjarval retrospective. Skaftfell Pictures from Kárahnjúkar governance in the 1970s. For- drama deals with the life of a top reviews for his performance. vacation. When coming across a Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 The National Gallery in all three museums. 4 Feb – 6 May Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Collaborative exhibition on the est Whitaker takes on the role of landscape architect, played by (March 9) mysterious hitchhiker the trip turns 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Fríkirkjuvegur Free entrance every Thursday. Kjarval og bernskan / Kjarval and www.skaftfell.is ground flood featuring pictures from Amin and won the Oscar as the Jude Law, which gets pulled into The Good Shepherd out to be a total nightmare. From Tue.-Sun. 11-17 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is childhood 17 Mar – 10 May photographers best actor for his performance. a world of crime and poverty Directed by Robert De Niro and the Producers of Texas Chainsaw Events Free Entrance Until 18 Mar Jóhannes S. Kjarval exhibition A unique collaboration between the Ragnar Axelsson, Páll Stefánsson, Smárabíó, Regnboginn after a break-in at his trendy firm. starring him, Matt Damon, Ange- Massacre and the Amityville Hor- Slovenian art collective opens an listasafn.is Ásmundur Sveinsson – Man and especially for the young ones. A Dieter Roth Academy and students Þorvaldur Örn Kristmundsson, Kristinn The Number 23 Sambíóin Álfabakka, Háskólabíó, lina Jolie and Patrick Wilson, this rors. (March 23) embassy in Iceland 9 Mar – 29 Apr Material program for children every Sunday at from the Iceland Academy of the Ingvarsson, Brynjar Gauti Sveinsson A thriller starring Jim Carrey as a Sambíóin Akureyri political flick is described as the 300 22.03 Official opening of the Icelandic Exhibition of selected paintings by Selected works from Ásmundur 14:00. Arts. Participating students are: and Vilhelm Gunnarsson all shot at the pretty normal bloke whose life will Bridge to Terabithia untold story of the birth of the Based on the epic novel by Frank embassy of the Slovenian NSK State. Jóhann Briem and Jón Engilberts Sveinsson, illustrating his use of Reykjavík Museum Christelle Concho, Harpa Dögg Kárahnjúkar area. soon change after discovering a Inspired by the children’s novel CIA, where misdeeds and corrup- Miller, this movie retells the story Lecture and ceremony at the Reykjavík The National Museum materials such as wood, clay, plaster, Kistuhylur 4 Kjartansdóttir, Inga Martel, Irene Ósk Suðsuðvestur mysterious book he thinks is based with the same name, this adven- tion unfolds and lives have to be of the famous battle of Thermopy- Academy. Suðurgata 41 bronze and other metals. www.arbaejarsafn.is Bermudez, James Greenway, Nika Hafnargata 22, Keflavík on his life. As the book ends with turous fantasy flick centres on a sacrificed to protect the agents’ lae in 480 BC where 300 Spartian Reykjavík Akademy, Hringbraut 121. Open daily 10-17 2 Apr – 31 Dec The Reykjavík Museum of Kupyrova, Sigurrós Svava Ólafsdóttir, Thu.-Fri. 16-18 a murder, he becomes paranoid young boy and a girl who together secrets. (March 9) soldiers fought the much stronger 700IS Film fiesta natmus.is/ Ásmundur Sveinsson Photography Vilborg Bjarkadóttir, Þórunn Maggý Sat.-Sun. 14-17 and scared and tries to fight what create the fantacy kingdom of Everyones Hero Persian army to protect Sparta. 24 -31.03 Held for the second time 17 Mar – 29 Apr A new retrospective of the works of Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor Kristjánsdóttir and Arild Tveito. www.sudsudvestur.is he is now convinced is his brutal Terabithia where they rule as king Young Irving is a kid with big This visually stimulating and the Experimental Film and Video Why Not Africa? Ásmundur Sveinsson. Weekdays 12-19 Open 13-17 on weekends Sandgerði Museum destiny. Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, and queen. A must see film for dreams. He has always wanted to historic thriller has received top Festival Reindeerland will take place at Dominique Darbois photo exhibit. Reykjavík Art Museum Sat.-Sun. 13-17 Hafnarborg Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. Borgarbíó Akureyri all true Disney fans. Sambíóin play for the New York Yankees. reviews by critics around the world Egilsstaðir in the East of Iceland by the Photos of sculptures from the African – Hafnarhús Free Entrance Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Until February 7th 2008 Pursuit of Happiness Kringlunni, Sambíóin Álfabakka, The only problem is that he sucks and no true movie fan should pass end of March. Local and foreign art- artistic heritage will also be on display Tryggvagata 17 www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Mon.-Sun. 11-17 Polar Adventures A Will Smith drama based on a Sambíóin Akureyri at baseball. When Babe Ruth’s up on. (March 23) ists and filmmakers will present their as well as original artwork. (Pourquoi Open daily 10-17 23 Feb – 26 May www.hafnarborg.is Exhibition on the life and work of the true story about a single dad who Hannibal Rising legendary bat gets stolen he, with School for Scoundrels works in the form of documentaries, Pas? Festival) 2 Feb – 29 Apr Swim and Steam 8 Mar – 9 Apr French polar explorer, scientist and dreams of a better life for his kid. Yes, Hannibal the cannibal has the help from a talking baseball From the directors of Old School short-films, video-art and everything 17 Mar – 29 Apr Erró - Gleymd framtíð / Erró Damien Peyret photo exhibit displaying Works of Faroese Painter Zacharías doctor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Smárabíó, Selfossbíó returned yet another time, now named Screwie, takes on a mission this comedy, starring Billy Bob between creating a one week culture- Sporlaust / Without A Trace – Forgotten Future both polaroids of people relaxing in Heinesen Akureyri Art Museum Notes on a Scandal telling the tale of the man-eating to find the thief and return the bat Thornton as the confedence-build- party. The festival is open for all free Katrín Elvarsdóttir photo exhibition. 100 watercolour paintings by Erró Kópavogur swimmingpool and screens Gljúfrasteinn / Halldór Laxness Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri A drama flick starring Cate maniac when he is still an inno- and will soon become the hero he ing teacher Dr. P and Napoleon of charge. Until 29 Apr from the period 1981-2005. his shortfilm A Taxi for Raykjavík, museum Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Blanchett as a pottery teacher who cent teenager. After witnessing always dreamt of being. (March 9) Dinamite’s star Jon Heder as a For a full program and venues see With a Silverneedle 2 Feb – 18 Mar made in 2001. (Pourquoi Pas? Festival) 270 Mosfellsbær www.listasafn.akureyri.is begins an affair with one of her his parents getting killed during Epic Movie young man suffering from anxiety www.700.is Elsa E. Guðjónsson textile designer Installation and photographs by Birta 24 Feb – 25 Mar Open daily except Mondays from From 13 Jan underage students. Regnboginn WW2 he ends up in an orphanage From the writers of the Scary attacks and low self-esteem is a To Other Horizons Until 12 Mar Guðjónsdóttir in the D Gallery Made in Iceland 10-17. Les yeux de l’ombre jaune Smokin’ Aces and slowly starts changing into Moviy series, this movie has one hilarious entertainment. Heder, 04.04 April 4th will see the premiere Guðni Þórðarson photo exhibition 23 Feb – 29 Apr Jo Duchene photo exhibition Hafnarfjörður institution of Jón Óskars exhibition This film centres on a young snitch the brutal serial killer movie-go- plot. Mixing together blockbusters who enrolls in Mr. P’s class has to of an original contemporary dance Ingimundur Magnússon and Kristján Fagnaðargarðurinn / Celebration Park displaying his documentary of private, continuing education From 13 Jan getting prepared to testify against ers know all too well. Sambíóin such as Snakes on a Plane, Narnia, learn to be confident the hard way piece in Reykjavík City Theatre. Entitled Magnússon photo exhibit French artist Pierre Huyghe displays his public, industrial and religious housing Skólabraut 1, Hafnarfjörður Tyrfingar the mob. Rather than keep a Álfabakka Harry Potter, Willy Wonka, Pirates when he ends up fighting with the To Other Horizons, this is a collabora- Permanent Exhibitions: recent works. (Pourquoi Pas? Festival) in Iceland. (Pourquoi Pas? Festival) Paintings by Sigurður Örlygsson, Adam Bateman installation low profile while waiting to face Dreamgirls of the Caribbean, and even Borat twisted teacher over the same girl. tion project between the Icelandic The Making of a Nation 23 Mar – 29 Apr Safn Árni Rúnar Sverrisson, Inga Dóra GalleriBOX his destiny, he runs of to a Lake Beyoncé Knowles, Eddie Murphy and Superman with the hope of (March 30) Dance Company, French choreog- The Nordic House Geirþrúður Hjörvar exhibition. In her Laugavegur 37 Guðmundsdóttir, Ester Jóhannesdóttir, Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri Tahoe casino with a group of and Jamie Foxx, in a 1960s-style being remotely funny. Very likely Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 rapher Serge Ricci and visual artist Sturlugata 5 exhibition she makes use of diverse Wed.-Fri. 14-18 Helga Sigurðardóttir, Kristín www.galleribox.blogspot.com angry assassins chasing after him. adaptation of a popular Broadway to be torture to watch. (16 March) 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 Fabien Almakiewicz who together Tue.-Sun. 12-17 media mixing literature, music and Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Pálmadóttir, Svandís Egilsdóttir, 10 Feb – 17 Mar Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó Akureyri, musical. Selfossbíó, Háskólabíó. Wild Hogs Háskólabíó, Hagatorg created the piece specifically for the www.nordice.is/ visual arts in her installations. Free Entrance Charlotta S. Sverrisdóttir, Ágúst Kristín Helga Káradóttir exhibition Sambíóin Álfabakka Norbit Middle-aged friends who need to 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 Dance Company. The description 17 Mar – 22 Apr Reykjavík Art Museum www.safn.is Bjarnason and Kristbergur Pétursson Music and Lyrics An Eddy Murphy movie starring spice up their lives decide to go Laugarásbíó, Laugarás reads that in To Other Horizons “Ricci Parallell Jewelleres – Kjarvalsstaðir Contemporary art exhibitions Kópavogur Art Museum Centring on a washed-up and Murphy as Norbit, a nerdy fella’ on a motorcycle trip and regain 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 approaches the subject matter in a Jewellery-design exhibition Flókagata Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum – Gerðarsafn struggling 80s popstar played by who has a hard tome dealing with the long lost youth. Starring Tim Smárabíó, Smáralind logical manner, revealing his intention Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : The Open Daily 10-17 Laugarnestangi 70 Hamraborg, Kópavogur Hugh Grant this romantic com- his overweight girlfriend, also Allen, John Travolta, Martin Law- 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 of articulating dance as the progres- Settlement Exhibition 10 Feb – 29 Apr Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Open daily 11:00-17:00 except edy follows his live as he tries to played by Murohy who is total rence and William Macy, as can Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 sion from obscurity towards the light.” www.gljufrasteinn.is Aðalstræti 16 Foss / Falling Water Permanent exhibition Mondays move from a has-been to hip, with hag. (March 9) be expected, the road-trip doesn’t 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 This performance is part of the French Open daily 10-17 The exhibition explores the relationship The work of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson www.gerdarsafn.is a little help from quirky Sophie Venus end up being as comfortable as Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 Pourquoi Pas? festival. For tickets visit Reykjavík Art Museum between art and nature through the Until 18 Mar Films Fisher, played by Drew Berrymore. Starring Peter O’Toole as a veteran planned. (March 16) 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 www.id.is. – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture work of Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir, Ólafur Outside Reykjavík Pictures of the year 2006 The Last King of Scotland Sambíóin Kringlunni, Sambíóin actor who discovers new aspects The Hitcher Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg Reykjavík City Theatre, Listabraut 3. Museum Elíasson, Pat Steir and Rúrí. Hveragerði Library An exhibition displaying the best press Set in Uganda, this movie is Álfabakka, Sambíóin Akureyri of life he had never dreamed of It’s spring break and a young 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 9. March 10. March 11. March 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 15:20 Paris, je t´aime 15:20 Ne le dis à personne 17:45 Mon petit doigt m’a dit 15:45 Mon petit doigt m’a dit 15:45 Garde à vue Alliance Française 20:00 Le Poulpe 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 17:40 Paris, je t´aime 20:00 Ne le dis à personne 17:45 La Chèvre 17:45 Les Visiteurs 22:15 La Dentellière 20:00 Le petit lieutenant 20:00 Les marchands de sable 22:20 Paris, je t´aime 20:00 Ne le dis à personne 20:00 Ne le dis à personne French Film Festival 22:15 Les soeurs fâchées 22:15 Les soeurs fâchées 22:20 Paris, je t´aime 22:20 Paris, je t´aime 12. March 13. March 14. March 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 17:45 Les Bronzés 17:45 Le Père Noël est une ordure 17:45 Bernie 20:00 Le Poulpe 20:00 La Petite Jérusalem 20:00 Le Poulpe 20:00 Ne le dis à personne 20:00 Paris, je t´aime 20:00 Paris, je t´aime 22:15 La Séparation 22:15 La Vie promise 22:15 La Séparation 22:20 Paris, je t´aime 22:20 Ne le dis à personne 22:20 Ne le dis à personne Alliance Française in cooperation with Peugeot & Bernhard presents the seventh annual French Film Festival 2007 in Háskólabíó. 15. March 16. March 17. Mars 17:40 Paris, je t´aime 17:40 Ne le dis à personne 15:20 Paris, je t´aime 17:45 Mon petit doigt m’a dit 17:45 Travaux 15:45 Mon petit doigt m’a dit From March 3rd until April 1st, you will be able to enjoy the finest in French 20:00 Garde à vue 20:00 La Cérémonie 17:40 Hors de Prix Cinema at Háskólabíó.This event is included in the "POURQUOI PAS?" Festival. 20:00 Ne le dis à personne 20:00 Hors de Prix 17:45 Mon petit doigt m’a dit Alliance Française has carefully selected for your enjoyment 40 films in a variety 22:15 La Cérémonie 22:15 Les Amants réguliers 20:00 Les Amants réguliers of styles, from the drama,”Lady Chatterley” (César - best movie of the year 2007) 22:20 Ne le dis à personne 22:20 Hors de Prix 20:00 Hors de Prix to the murder suspense thriller "Tell No One"(César- best actor, best director) not 22:20 Ne le dis à personne forgetting French “film noir” and classic comedies.

We have dedicated this year to the legendary actress Isabelle Huppert featured in 18. March 19. March 20. March eight of our films.There is also a photographic exhibition of her at the entrance to 15:20 Ne le dis à personne 17:40 Paris, je t´aime 17:40 Paris, je t´aime the theatre. 15:45 Asterix et Obelix 20:00 Hors de Prix 20:00 Hors de Prix 17:40 Hors de Prix 22:20 Ne le dis à personne 22:20 Hors de Prix We invite you to take the time to explore alternative films on “Short Film 17:45 Asterix et Obelix Day”(March24th) and don´t miss out on Pierre Coulibeuf´s artfilms. 20:00 Le petit lieutenant 20:00 Hors de Prix 21. March 22. March We look forward to seeing you there and enjoy yourself. 22:15 Sauve qui peut (la vie) 17:40 Hors de Prix 17:40 Hors de Prix 22:20 Paris, je t´aime 20:00 Ne le dis à personne 20:00 Hors de Prix 22:20 Hors de Prix 22:20 Hors de Prix

24 March From 25. march Lady Chatterley Short film day Art cinema: Pierre Coulibeuf Césars 2007: Short films, meetings, films every day at 22.15 Best Film, Best Actress for discussions Marina Hands, Best Adaptation from 15:00 to 23:00 La science des rêve of a Novel to the Screen, Best AT 18:00, Let's have a drink! 28 march - 1.april Cinematography, and Best Costumes.

If you need help making a selection, visit our website for a Erna Örvarsdóttir “The Wariors of Beauty” by Pierre Coulibeuf Wariors Erna Örvarsdóttir “The translation and description as well as prices of each film: www.af.is 50% discount for AF members on selected films CAFÉS RESTAURANTS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Næsti Bar 22 Boston 25 Ölstofan 28 Barinn 31 34 Argentína 37 Indian Mango 44 Bæjarins Bestu Kaffi Hljómalind Laugavegur 27 Ingólfsstræti 1a Laugavegur 28b Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 22 Vor Steakhouse Frakkarstígur 12 Tryggvagata Laugavegur 21 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Næsti Bar can be a godsend on those Located above the second-hand fashion Ölstofan has been attracting a clientele Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming Laugavegur 24 Barónstígur 11 Located on a quiet Laugavegur side There’s a good reason why there’s always terranean, as all traditional coffee shops nights when queues seem to snake all store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor of late twenties and up who come for quite popular among Reykjavík party street, Indian Mango has infused the a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- This organic, free-trade café prides itself Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- True to its name, restaurant Argentína should be, and this place makes you feel the way down Laugavegur, no seats are and nice sofas in the lounge room up- the drink and stay for the company, as scenesters. Its three floors and equally Reykjavík restaurant scene with incred- less of the weather or time of day. Select- on being a non-profit company and a ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- specialises in Argentinean steaks and warm, both with its atmosphere and the available anywhere and you just want to stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the blasting DJs here have been replaced by numerous bars get quite crowded dur- ible delicacies originating in the rich food ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by dedicated venue for the hardcore and dients and a health-conscious menu that southern decorations where dancing generosity of the coffee refills. chat with some friends over a beer. Fre- Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- nice background music to go with the ing weekends where a mix of dancing traditions from the Goa region in India, The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- emphasises French and Mediterranean flames in the fireplace welcome every quented by the literary and acting elite, ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- drink. Better show up early on week- downstairs and chatting upstairs make honed to perfection at the Four Seasons, cades ago, it has been serving “ein með tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the guest that walks inside. The tender meat, those folk usually don’t mind if you pop ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy ends before the regular clientele rushes for a good night out. Though mostly a during the owner’s period as head chef. öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown soups and vegetarian dishes as well as excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent excellent wines, generous portions and a in for a quick beer and make use of some café as well as a laid-back tavern where in as its popularity makes it hard to find DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs A local favourite, Indian Mango is known pedestrians since 1935, making it the organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- selection of quality cognac, whiskey, li- of the (usually) available tables, so long the music is good but never intrusive. a table. and is always a fun party venue. both for the quality of the food as well oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- place to visit for a reasonably priced fee served is of the highest quality. queurs and cigars all helped in making it as you don’t sing. as the service. try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. healthy lunch. a recommended place for fine dining.

2 Grái Kötturinn 9 Súfistinn 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Deco 29 Q-Bar 32 Maru 35 Icelandic Fish Chips 38 Sægreifinn 45 Quiznos Hverfisgata 16a Laugavegur 18 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 12 Ingólfsstræti 3 Aðalstræti 12 Tryggvagata 8 Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Lækjargata 8 A small antique-style non-smoking cof- On the top floor of the giant bookstore Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing Located inside the Intercultural Cen- Located in a former drugstore, Deco is an A spacious designer bar specially suited Last time we checked, Maru manages Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a Located right next to the Reykjavík har- A chain of sandwich outlets special- fee house in a Hverfisgata basement, Mál og Menning, you’ll find the casual lunch menu, they serve brunch during tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a upper-middle priced bar/bistro catering for an evening drink, the newly reno- to shell out some near-perfect sushi at healthy restaurant using only organic bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- izing in toasty baguette-style subs, but legendary for its early opening hours, booklover coffee house Súfistinn. What the weekends, and the kitchen is open cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of to those who prefer elegant surround- vated Q-Bar is a welcome addition to the very reasonable prices. Their downtown vegetables, quality fish products and rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in also serving soups and salads. Choose amazing breakfast and strong coffee we love about this place is the selection until 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes events and various theme nights like ings. A good choice for a light lunch or nightlife downtown. In stylish and com- location makes it an excellent place for no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. the country. The menu features various your toppings and variety of sauces and that will easily wake you up in the morn- of books and magazines you can take on, and you can check the end results in Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion an afternoon glass of red vine. Features fortable surroundings, with a lounge-like take-away, a fact that’s emphasised (and Deep-fried catch of the day served with fish dishes and a rich portion of the best you’ll get a fresh sandwich to suit your ing. We especially recommend The Truck, from the store and read while enjoying photos published the day after on their parties. The menu features all sorts of an above average whiskey selection. atmosphere, a good vibe and plenty of suggested) by the menu. When dining oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- taste. Ask for the lamb sub, an Icelandic American style breakfast consisting of a breakfast, light lunch or afternoon website www.vegamot.is. If you like Oli- international dishes like Thai soup, Span- seats, the place never gets uncomfort- in, however, make sure to compliment a sauce made out of the fat-free milk ters to groups upstairs where the room speciality. Then put a double chocolate eggs, bacon, pancakes, fried potatoes, coffee. Browse the shelves and grab a ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with ably crowded nor too noisy for con- your spicy tuna maki with a nice glass of product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts looks more like a cabin than a diner and chunk brownie in your take-away box tomatoes, syrup and toast. The bagels table. bistro regulars such as sandwiches and versation, making it a popular pre-club Asahi ‘Super Dry’ and a chaser of sake. of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They the Sea Baron himself can often be seen. and you’re good to go. are also excellent. salads. destination. also offer take-away at all times. The good food and welcoming service make this place a must-try. 3 10 17 39 46 Mokka Svarta Kaffi Café Cozy DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK Apótek Bar-Grill Nonnabiti Skólavörðustígur 3a Laugavegur 54 Austurstræti 3 Austurstræti 16 Hafnarstræti 9 Mokka has been attracting coffee-thirsty A cosy second floor café offering lunch Reykjavík’s only gay-bar at the time of 41 With airy and stylish interiors and excel- Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, regulars since 1958, making it the oldest snacks and cappuccinos to Laugavegur writing, Café Cozy is indeed very cosy, 46 lent menu, it’s no wonder this restau- Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, café in the city centre and the founder of pedestrians every day of the week. The and especially so if you happen to be Hafnarstræti 44 rant is always packed during weekends. is one of the more popular junk food a very rich coffee culture in the country. appeal lies partly in their famous Súpa same-sex oriented. During weekends, 33 Located inside a building that used to places around, offering a large selection Its old interiors full of character make the í brauði, (translates Soup in bread), but this small café usually turns into a full- house the downtown pharmacy, the res- of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- stay both relaxing and comfortable and also in the romantic atmosphere created fledged discothèque with bouts of table taurant is a true haven for food lovers es and burgers with a nice dash of the a great place to linger on a Sunday af- by candlelight on every table and easy- dancing and general hedonism while Austurstræti12 42 where the pleasure of dining in the open unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late ternoon. Mokka’s regular art exhibits are listening music. A nice hideaway in the weeknights find the clientele discussing 26 6 and lively environment is almost inde- night craving there’s no need to worry, always worth a look. early evening for a drink or two. current-affairs over pints and cups of 39 scribable. After the meal, order a Mojito Nonni is open longer than most other coffee. 21 – it’s the best you’ll get in the city. places. cocktails 49 Bank 18 astræti Ingólfsstræti BARS 'N' BISTROS 45 7 15 2 4 Ráðhúskaffi 11 18 Rósenberg 11 23 40 Við Tjörnina 47 Hamborgarabúlla Tjarnargata 11 Lækjargata center city the in Litli Ljóti Andarunginn Lækjargata 2 Templarasund 3 Tómasar (Búllan) 24 Hverfisgata Located inside the City Hall with a great Lækjargata 6b Café Rósenberg features a venue for Laugav20 One of Reykjavík’s classics, with a view Geirsgata 1 view over the pond, this coffee house easy going troubadours, jazz bands and over the pond and a menu almost Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, 29 egur has a good selection of cakes and pas- blues groups, providing a relaxed atmo- 14 solely consisting of traditional Icelandic Frequently lauded by Iceland’s hamburg- this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine SPOT THIS: Barinn 3 er aficionados as the best place to get a tries for pedestrians who like to relax sphere almost every day of the week and Skóla 1 dishes, this restaurant is just as popular place to sit down and relax with a latté real hamburger in Reykjavík, ‘Búllan’ (as after a stroll in the centre. A large topo- making Rósenberg one of a very few jazz Laugavegur 22, 101 Reykjavík 13 among tourists as it is among Reykjavík’s or some beer when suffering from a case 16 9 it’s affectionately known to the locals) graphic model of Iceland and regular art clubs living up to its name in Reykjavík. 19 8 residents. The reindeer-steak with port- bar & cafe of severe hipster-burn. vörðustígur 25 exhibits add to the pleasure. The live gigs, which are almost guaran- Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming quite ting upstairs make for a good night out. 28 sauce or the pickled herring and ferment- does indeed serve up some extra-tasty 48 burgers that are sure to take the edge teed on weekends, attract a very mixed popular among Reykjavík party scenesters. Though mostly a DJ bar, Barinn occasion- Klapparstígur 31 ed shark served with Icelandic schnapps 22 off any hangover. What makes it so good crowd, all looking for that chilled-out Its three floors and equally numerous bars ally hosts live gigs and is always a fun party 30 both come highly recommended. feel. get quite crowded during weekends where venue. is hard to say, but liberal helpings of rare a mix of dancing downstairs and chat- beef contribute a lot. 5 12 19 41 FAST FOOD 48 Babalú Belly’s Óliver 38 47 Á næstu grösum Skólavörðustígur 22a Hafnarstræti 18a Laugavegur 20a American Style (Á næstu grösum) Walking up Skólavörðustígur, you can’t A spacious pub, although the complete If you like trendy party-types who dance 35 Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20B miss café Babalú, a pleasant destination opposite of bright and airy, Belly’s de- like crazy to a lively mix of music where in its own right, as it has to be ranked serves praise for having the cheapest glamour is all that counts on the spa- What makes American Style burgers dis- Many locals claim this to be the best as one of the cosiest places for a coffee bar-price around, selling a large beer cious dance floor, the stylish Óliver is tinct from all the other ones in the city is vegetarian restaurant in town offering a and cake. With nice old sofas and books for only 350 ISK. Attracting a mixture the nightclub for you. For all the others the size, the soft bun and the amount of menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- lining the shelves, you can’t help feel- of students, sailors and all those who who hate that kind of a party, the good 36 27 fresh veggies used as toppings. Grab a ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask ing you are at your grandma’s place. We don’t want to drain the wallet, there are air-conditioning, fine food and excellent 17 seat in one of the booths with your bbq for the daily special or try the selection could sit there every day, all day, if our enough tables for everyone and TVs on brunch served during the day makes Austurstr heavy special with bacon and cheese, of three different courses. The Indian daily duties wouldn’t pull us out again. every wall for all you sports enthusiasts Óliver a recommended choice for mid- 32 æti Ingólfsstræti fries and a soda, and you won’t be hun- theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the out there. priced meals. Bankastræti gry for hours. sugar free banana cake just one of the Hverfisgata highly tempting desserts. 40 4 Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 6 Segafredo 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 42 Pizza King 49 Kebab Húsið By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 37 50 The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Featuring occasional concerts on Friday Tjarnargata 1 This small pizza place is not only cheap Fancy a kebab? There aren’t many choic- Þingholtsstræti 34 the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown nights and DJs calling the tunes every 5 but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll es – Kebab Húsið is the only place selling facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of weekend, Bar 11 is a popular late-night Bergstaðarstræti get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK them in the city. But if you don’t set the lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- haunt on two floors. Emphasizing old Frakkastígur per slice, not to mention the special standard too high and note that you’ll espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet rock’n’roll classics and chart-toppers, the lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three never have to wait longer than five min- need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with crammed dance floor tends to turn into Óðinsgata toppings of your choice and a can of utes for your piping hot döner with veg- way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live a war zone at weekends when it’s impos- Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is gies, yoghurt and chilli sauce, you’re in on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the sible to have a private chat. That whole a local favourite. The fact it’s open until for a fine meal. Especially popular among party doesn’t start winding down until fiasco can be an interesting experience, 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t hungry club crawlers on weekends. early morning. especially if you join in the fun. hurt either. Barónsstígur

7 Kaffitár 14 Sirkus 21 Hressó 24 Prikið 27 Kaffi Amsterdam 30 Dillon 33 Hornið 36 Sjávarkjallarinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Austurlanda- Bankastræti 8 Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Aðalstræti 2 Bergstaðarstræti 13 hraðlestin At Kaffitár, making coffee is a way of Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- A spacious neutral place with no par- This two-floor café/pub has been a part One of 101’s more established taverns, The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The casual family-friendly Italian-style In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city Hverfisgata 64A celebrating life. Offering all sorts of deli- ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been ticular type of clientele, Hressó is a place of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. Kaffi Amsterdam seems to have been in tures moderately priced drinks, a dark corner restaurant has operated at the chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, Although a little pricey for a take-away, cacies to go with your morning fuel and popular among musicians and the cre- where the menu spans a variety of lunch With a large and fairly cheap bistro business forever, really, as some of their and cosy mood and some pretty good same spot since 1979 when it became where the emphasis is not only on ocean snacks and an extensive selection of the charging around 1600 ISK for a main a nice selection for those with a sweeter ative crowd who get along well although dishes during the day and troubadours menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university decorations bear witness. Recently re- music (especially when local favourite a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- course, the food is well worth that extra tooth, it’s an excellent choice for eat in the breathing space can be limited on and tap-beer are the order of the night. students with their laptops and elderly invented as a live venue, weekends see DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun larly love the spelt bread in the morning, spending once in a while. Serving typi- or take away. Their special coffee-blends weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for A somewhat basic club during week- devoted regulars during the day while some of Reykjavík’s most rockin’ bands tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang and the generously stuffed calzone, the is to order the exotic menu, a range of and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure are a tad pricy, but well worth that little the greatest party possible every week- ends, notable for its size and amount of the younger clientele fills up the space strap on their guitars for some… rockin’. out there on school nights are joined by wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts courses carefully selected by the chef, to go with the afternoon coffee. chest for those with a penchant for a extra change. If you like your coffee, buy end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts seats. during the evening and especially at The beer’s also cheap and you will get legions of parka-clad students during of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian and share it with your dining partners. spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- a bag of beans to take home. on weeknights. weekends when the music is mostly exposed to some ‘colourful’ characters. weekends, creating a party atmosphere and meat courses, all very affordable. side for those who choose to dine in. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in. B6_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_ART/DVD MAGAZINE POURQUOI PAS?_A_FRENCH_SPRING_IN_ICELAND_2007

Visual Art Theatre: Reykjavík City Theatre, Mar 29 – 31 17 Feb – 18 Mar » Presque Rein – Contemporary art exhibition, Living Art Museum; Laugavegur 26 23 Feb – 25 Mar » Etienne de France, Icelandic Labour Union’s Art Gallery; Freyjugata 41 23 Feb – 22 Apr » Celebration Park - Pierre Huyghe design exhibition, Reykjavík Art Museum; Tryggvagata 17 24 Feb – 25 Mar » Jo Duchene and Damien Peyret photo exhibitions, Reykjavík Museum of Photography; Tryggvagata 15 25 Feb – 12 May » M/M & Gabriela sculpture exhibition, Museum of Design and Applied Art; Lyngás 7-9, Garðabær 25 Feb – 7 Feb 2008 » Pourquoi Pas? – Charcot exhibition, Sandgerði Museum; Garðavegur 1, Sandgerði 10 Mar – 29 Apr » Face á Faces – Photo exhibition, Akureyri Art Museum; Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri 17 Mar – 21 Apr » African Art – Photo exhibition, National Museum of Iceland; Suðurgata 41 17 Mar – 15 May » Emotional Landscapes – Mathieu Copeland exhibition, Safn; Laugavegur 37 24 Mar – 29 Apr » Design Reference, Kópavogur Art Museum / Gerðasafn; Hamraborg, Kópavogur 24 Mar – 29 Apr » Traits Trés Mode – Design exhibition, Sævar Karl Gallery; Bankastræti 7, Reykjavík 31 Mar – 29 Apr » WA – Wall paintings by 15 artists, Reykjavík Energy; Bæjarháls 1 Audiovisual 3 Mar – 1 Apr » French Film Festival, Háskólabíó Movie Theatre; Hagatorg The Imaginary Invalid 4 Apr – 30 Apr » Performing art by Ketill Larsen, Tjarnarbíó Theatre; Tjarnargata 12 or The Silence Of Molière

Theatre Directed by Arthur Nauzyciel, The play written by Giovanni Macchia, 12 Mar – 18 Mar Imaginary Invalid or The Silence Of focuses on Molière’s daughter who » Le Muséé de la Mer – Written by Marie Darrieussecq and directed by Arthur Nauzyciel Molière will be presented at the Na- rejects the theatre, her father and The National Theatre of Iceland; Hverfisgata 19 tional Theatre of Iceland as a spe- family. Nauzyciel has mixed these 22 Mar – 23 Mar cial guest performance in March. two plays into one piece that “rep- » The Imaginary Patient or the Silence of Molière – Directed by Arthur Nauzyciel Premiering in 1999, this production resents the intimacy of life, the re- The National Theatre of Iceland; Hverfisgata 19 features two different plays com- nunciation of death, the memory 28 Mar – 29 Mar bined into one, the Imaginary Inval- and its transmission, bringing to- » L’Image – Directed by Arthur Nauzyciel, Ó. Johnson & Kaaber; Sætún 8 id and The Silence Of Molière. The gether our everyday life and the- 29 Mar – 31 Mar Imaginary Invalid, written by actor atre”. Actress Brynhildur Guðjóns- » The Chronicles of Whole Days and Whole Nights, Reykjavík City Theatre; Listabraut 3 and playwright Molière, centres on dóttir will play Esprit-Madeleine 5 Apr a hypochondriac and his daughter. Poquelin, the daughter of Molière, » Between Worlds by playwright Eric-Emmanuel Schmitt, Reykjavík Art Museum; Tryggvagata 17 This comedy was Molière’s last play who tells the story of her father and he died after its fourth perfor- and their fragile relationship. Dance mance. The Silence Of Molière, a 4 Apr » To Other Horizons – Serge Ricci and The Icelandic Dance Company, Reykjavík City Theatre; Listabraut 3 Theatre: Ó. Johnson & Kaaber, Mar 28 and 29 Literature The Advanced Way to Experience Art 29 Mar – 19 May » Bernard Alligand book exhibition, National Library; Arngrímsgata 3, Reykjavík

Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Music 28 Mar » Kitchen Motors Night – Monade and Jóhann Jóhannsson Grapevine meets Rafskinna, Iceland’s First Magnús Finnsson and director Þórunn Haf- and a large reason why they’ve become so feature art works by Inga Birgisdóttir and National Theatre Basement; Hverfisgata 19, Reykjavík DVD Magazine. stað – it’s a quarterly magazine containing a popular in recent years, is that the viewer Finnur Arnar, a Jimi Tenor short-film, un- 29 Mar two hour DVD disc featuring a compilation will be able to see the interviewee and wit- plugged performance by Skakkamanage, » Kitchen Motors Night – Plinki Plonk Symphony, National Theatre Basement; Hverfisgata 19, Reykjavík With the existence of YouTube and other of music videos, exclusive interviews, live ness the actual conversation, hear the mu- animation by Hugleikur Dagsson, a ten min- 7 Apr internet video sites – where people can dis- performances, animation, documentaries, sic played and experience the performances ute Nýtt Líf remix by Kristján Loðmfjörð and, » Turtle Cuts and Nosfell at Aldrei fór ég suður Festival, Ásgeirsbakki; Ísafjörður tribute as well as download a never-ending short-films and video-art. The magazine’s visually as they happened when performed last but not least, a cooking show where amount of movies and video clips onto their concept is culture and art in its widest con- on stage. With a simple click of the mouse the celebrity chefs are members of the band Science computers – it’s never been easier to access text, placing special emphasis on music re- they can move on to the next story, inter- Ghostigital. 1 Mar – 31 Mar entertainment. The only problem is, quantity lated material. view, video or whatever the disc might con- The magazine’s format is a cardboard » Airbus – Scientific exhibition, Askja / University of Iceland; Sturlugata 7 doesn’t necessarily equal quality and, as us- “If we could point out some resemblance tain that they’re interested in viewing. DVD box that includes the DVD disc, a print edi- 10 Apr ers are growing in numbers by the minute, it to our magazine it would be the British DVD magazines can cover topics in an essentially tion with articles, interviews and written » Scientific Conference – Sylvie Joussaume, Jean Jouzel and guests can take hours to find the good stuff, a time- Magazine Specialten. That particular maga- different way than could ever be possible in material as well as some other artistic and Hátíðarsalur /University of Iceland; Suðurgata consuming shortcoming to an otherwise ex- zine [founded by two guys in 2002] started the printed media. theme related accessories. In the first issue, cellent amusement. off as a small project but is now sold in all the This must be a welcoming opportunity the printed edition features an interview with Business and Tourism One Sentence, One Play For the past few years, publishers of so major record stores in Britain and distributed for all the artists, designers and film-makers Jimi Tenor, a fiction serial written by Örvar 6 Mar – 13 Mar called DVD magazines have developed a in the US as well,” Sigurður explains. who need better promotion for their works Þóreyjarson Smárason from múm and comics » Wine Seminar, Hótel Reykjavík Centrum; Aðalstræti 16 Based on the story L’Image by Irish Ó. Johnson & Kaaber building on way to meet the growing interest for easily Focusing on the extensive art and mu- than they have been getting so far. How by Tony Millionaire and Dr. Gunni. The cover, 8 Mar – 18 Mar writer Samuel Beckett this piece March 28th and 29th. Directed by accessible and high-quality visual entertain- sic culture in Iceland, the four founders, have the responses been? reflecting the first issue’s fish theme, was de- » The French Commercial Days, Reykjavík Streets is a nine-page sentence written in Arthur Nauzyciel, French actress ment by introducing a new medium where, who also serve as the magazine’s editors, “We have gotten great responses from signed by Gunnar Þór Vilhjálmsson and Sig- 15 Mar – 18 Mar May 1988. Thanks to the Pourquoi Anne Brochet will read the text, instead of written material, the magazines have for the past few months been track- the people we’ve talked with and they like urður Eggertsson who are also responsible » Michelin Star Chef: Jean-Yves Johany, Hótel Holt; Bergstaðastræti 37 Pas? festival, Icelanders will get backed up by dancer Damien Jalet contain full-screen videos and top quality live ing down interesting artists, shooting live what we are doing,” Þórunn says. “This is for the overall look. 12 Apr the chance to witness its reading and musicians David Lacey and Paul footage. It’s a fairly new phenomenon, but music performances and collecting material a completely different platform for them to “The package is an important part of » Invest in France – Business Forum, Nordica Hotel; Suðurlandsbraut 2 in a very unusual setting at the old Vogel. for the past couple of years there has been from film-makers, cartoonists and compos- present their works and reach out to the the whole concept and we’re going to try to a small revolution in the business and with ers so the soon-to-be viewer will be provided public. Everyone has been more than ready get different designers to design the look of new publications the popularity is steadily with endless entertainment combined in one to do endless work to help us out and con- each issue,” Þórunn explains. “We want to Theatre: Business and Tourism: Reykjavík Streets, Mar 8 – Mar 18 rising. Some of you readers have perhaps small package. tribute to the project. We’ve gotten some do so much more than just publish one DVD Reykjavík City Theatre – Mar 29 – 31 stumbled across an issue or two when travel- “The magazine is supposed to mirror the juicy stuff out of it,” she adds. disc. We want the magazine to be a valuable ling abroad, but those who are not familiar contemporary art scene in Iceland and follow Witnessing the explosion of net-surfers package, worth preserving for a long time.” The French Commercial Days with the concept, DVD magazines are, as the up on happenings. We’ll be interviewing art- in recent years who would rather push a play Representing an impressive collection of Durringer’s Chronicles name indicates, magazines in a DVD format, ists visiting the country as well as talking to button than open up a newspaper, makes creativity, only 500 to 1000 copies will be Within the framework of the French Même – and a series of events will covering multiform subjects as music videos, local artists and musicians and mixing new you wonder if DVD magazines will replace published per edition to begin with and the The production The Chronicles of Whole Days Culture Festival, the French-Icelan- take place around the city. At the fashion shows, documentaries and inter- stuff with old and rare material”, Sigurður the print medium in the future. magazine will be sold in record stores, book- and Whole Nights consists of translated texts by dic Chamber of Commerce presents same time, the French Book Week views. explains. “The first issue will, for example, “I wouldn’t go as far as to say that DVD stores and some galleries and fashion shops the writer and director Xavier Durringer. Born the fifth annual French Commercial will take place at Mál og Menning Up until now these kinds of visual pub- contain new music videos from múm, Gus- magazines will replace the printed maga- in the city centre for the price of 1.990 ISK. in Paris in 1963 he has directed theatre, written Days. From March 8th to 18th, bookshop where book lovers can lications have been non-existent in Iceland, Gus, Rass and Ghostigital as well as a Jimi zines. This is rather a much needed addition It’s worth noting that the DVD will have Eng- several plays and worked for television and cin- French products will be promoted get acquainted with French litera- but that is about to change on March 30th, Tenor interview.” Tenor, a Finish musician to the written format, a new approach, so to lish subtitles so all the non-Icelandic speakers ema. This piece is a one-hour show starring six in more than twenty shops around ture and chat with some of France’s when the first issue of Rafskinna, a new Ice- and composer, visited Iceland in December say,” Þórunn says. fascinated with the country’s art and music Icelandic actors. Focusing on two men and two Reykjavík’s centre – including renowned authors. landic DVD magazine, will be released. Pub- and played a gig at 12 Tónar and Sirkus. Bringing together artists from different scene can enjoy its contents as well. women feeling lost, happy, frustrated and lonely, L’Occitane, Kisan, and Du Pareil Au lished by Rasskinn EHF – a company owned “These are videos that would be hard to see disciplines, Rafskinna’s first issue is stuffed it’s a play rich with emotions where the sounds of by artist Pétur Már Gunnarsson, director elsewhere,” he adds. with intriguing material. In addition to the For subscription visit www.this.is/rafskinna. words play a big role. Ragnheiður Gestsdóttir, producer Sigurður The unique feature of DVD magazines, aforementioned music videos the issue will For a full programme, visit www.pourquoipas.is. B8_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_REVIEWS/FOOD RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_BEZT Í HEIMI_B9

Dining out? Check out our many food reviews online!

Austur-Indía Félagið Geysir Tivoli

Hverfisgata 56, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 552 1630 Aðalstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 517 4300 Laugavegur 3, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 552 0077

Once again, a Grapevine food critic faces the almost insur- Bistro-bar and restaurant Geysir is located in the old and dig- Located on the shopping street Laugavegur, Tivoli is a cosy mountable task of reviewing a meal that was damn near nified Geysir building by the corner of Aðalstræti and Ves- café during the day offering light snacks and lunch meals perfect, and doing it without sounding like a thinly veiled turgata. A relatively new eating destination, open since last such as pizza, burgers, and tapas dishes. Downtown pedes- advertisement or a love letter. This doesn’t happen a lot, summer, its bright and stylishly decorated dining hall offers trians have already caught on to this new dining opportunity, mind you. In fact, it mostly seems to happen at one place. plenty of seating for couples up to large groups who can and the place, open since November, has developed a regular The above analogy is even stolen from a previous glowing enjoy the meal and the nice downtown view from lunch to customer base of shoppers and locals alike. review of the restaurant in question, and that is the very dinner hours. Around dinner hours, Tivoli turns into a nice restaurant restaurant you are reading about right now – Indian restau- After a couple of lunchtime visits, arriving at Geysir on where the homely decor adds character and extra charm to rant Austur-Indía Félagið. And I can tell you that they’ve still a Friday evening was a completely different experience. The the place. At this time, light refreshments are replaced by got it. In fact, they may have gotten even better. Seriously, place was almost packed and every table seated with cus- gourmet cuisine, although small dishes are still offered to when your only complaint at a restaurant is that you get too tomers enjoying their dinner while in deep conversation. The those who only want something to go with the wine. The full to finish all of the delights at hand, you know they’re lively casual vibe was welcoming and although the tables restaurant’s menu is very tasteful in both prices and com- on to something. are lined in close proximity to one another the closeness to bination of inviting dishes influenced by Italian and Spanish Let me tell you about the chicken course we enjoyed. other dining guests never gets annoying. The sound of other cuisine. Reshimi Kebab, it was called, and the only comment I wrote people chatting rather adds a lively twist to the whole experi- While we carefully examined the menu, our friendly wait- BEZT Í HEIMI: Filippseyjar Grocery Store about it in my notebook was ‘wow!’ Rarely have I tasted a ence. ress offered us a sample of whale sashimi as an appetizer. piece of chicken that was grilled to such perfection; its ten- Geysir’s new menu features a diverse yet consistent selec- The meat was supremely tender and when dipped into the Hverfisgata 98, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 551 2400 der and juicy meat would have held its own quite well, but tion of bistro-style dishes for a very reasonable price. When soy sauce and wasabi, much to my surprise, it tasted rather WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS the addition of some nicely thought-out spices and a minty seated right by the window our waitress offered us a nice good. Fewer things are more frustrating than when you’ve Shops like this one are an example of the many aftertaste pushed it well beyond the ‘awesome’ category. bottle of white wine and recommended some of the restau- As a starter I decided on the all-Icelandic hangikjöt, a dish decided to be a little experimental in the kitchen and great things about a multicultural society. All the in- News // Culture // Dining // Travelling // Shopping // Articles // Interviews And then there was the Vindaloo lamb in all its spicy rant’s tastiest dishes. As starters we were served two sepa- of smoked lamb traditionally served with potatoes, white your stomach is aching for a flavourful Asian meal, to dividuals immigrating to the country bring with them glory. It is always telling when you feel compelled to keep rate courses, one containing a rather bland tomato-soup, the sauce and green peas. Tivoli’s owners decided not to prepare drive to the next supermarket chain only to find out different culinary traditions from their homelands shovelling food in your mouth even though it is basically other a plate of large shrimps on a stick and a small vegetable the lamb old-style though. Cut in thin slices and served with that they only sell a third of the ingredients needed to and, to meet the growing demand for fine ingredi- burning holes in your cheeks and tongue. But a taste of the stuffed and crusty quiche served with a bowl of sour cream. rucola, fresh melon and horseradish sauce, this experimen- prepare the meal. Wouldn’t it be easier, not to men- ents, grocery stores dedicated to oriental cuisine have vindaloo invited another one, and so on until the heat got The quiche was especially flavourful and the shrimps, when tal dish turned out to be the best hangikjöt I’ve ever tasted. tion much more enjoyable, to shop from someone been opening up in the city for the past decade. so scalding that not even the plentiful Rajita could soothe dipped in the sauce, an excellent and light starter. My dining partner decided on a more classic course, a beef who actually knows the ingredients and has used When you wind through the grocery aisles at the pain. But it was worth it. We weren’t let down with our plates of lamb and salted carpaccio with oil and parmesan and wasn’t let down by her them in the kitchen? We would think so. If you tend Filippseyjar, you’ll find brightly coloured cans and In fact, everything my companion and I consumed dur- cod as main dishes nor the bottle of red wine that our wait- choice. to find yourself in this annoying situation, stop by at bottles of coconut milk, bamboo shoots, dried mush- ing our two-hour stay at Austur-Indía Félagið, from the ress brought to the table. The fillet of lamb served with po- For the main course, our waitress recommended the Roco the shop Filippseyjar, a small Asian grocery store lo- rooms, bean sprouts, soy sauce, packs of noodles naan bread and tomato rice right down to the Cobra beer tatoes, grilled vegetables and bearnaise sauce was spot-on – a pasta dish with lobster, mushrooms, spinach, garlic and cated on the corner of Hverfisgata and Barónstígur, with numerous flavours, tea, coffee and large sacks was worthy of praise. The service was also excellent, and and cooked to perfection. Likewise, the salted cod, served on cheese sauce – and the Mohjito lamb. The generous portion and you won’t need to swear anymore. of rice, ready to be boiled, fried or braised. Spices befitting of the restaurant’s pricing policy (although the top of an Italian-style olive and tomato sauce was tasty and of lamb fillet with mint sauce was satisfying, although they Specializing in oriental supplies, the store imports you’ll have no clue on how to use line the shelves and staff probably knew we were there for reviewing purposes, filling. could have added a bit more mint to supplement the flavour. groceries not only from the Philippines but numerous sauces that will make your taste buds jump for joy. everyone else eating there seemed to get the same amount Although a little short of stomach space there’s always The pasta dish on the other hand was just perfect. A blend of other Asian countries, particularly Thailand, China, If your head is spinning with confusion, María will of attention, too). some room for dessert. The creamy chocolate mousse and tasty sauce, large chunks of lobster and generously stuffed Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia and Vietnam. Every week, most likely be more than willing to guide you through an exceptionally rich portion of crème brulée both made a tortellini topped with fresh rucola was more than enough to the store stocks up on fresh fruit and vegetables from the store and help you pick out the things you need, ABC-kort fine conclusion to an excellent meal. If looking for a fun spot satisfy the taste buds. Thailand and provides customers with various choices and give you a tip or two on how to use them in to go with friends for a fine meal before a night out, a drop For dessert, we ordered the sweet chocolate mousse of Asian giftware as well. the kitchen. You might even walk out not only with Hjálpaðu bágstöddum börnum og njóttu afsláttar í leiðinni in at Geysir can be recommended. A fine way to start your served with cream and berries and the Panna Cotta served When walking inside the store you’ll be greeted both hands full of products, but a secret recipe in the evening. Also, as the prices are fair, there should still be a lit- with cream and raspberry sauce. In line with previous dishes, by the cheerful owner standing behind the counter. pocket. Með ABC-kortinu færðu 10% afslátt í verslunum tle something left in the wallet to spend at the nearest bar. these proved to be excellent, confirming that Tivoli is a res- María Priscilla Zanoria, a Philippine native, opened 66°Norður um land allt og 1% af upphæðinni taurant boasting high class but reasonably priced meals. up the store ten years ago and has run the shop at Opening hours: Monday to Friday 12-19, Saturdays rennur beint til ABC-barnahjálpar. the same location ever since. The business is steadily 12-18. Closed on Sundays. reaching out to new customers and today it can pride itself on being a true treasure chest full of exotic Þú sækir um ABC-kortið Reviewed by Haukur Magnússon Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir products for customers to stuff in their baskets. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir hjá Netbankanum á www.nb.is B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 03_2007_MUSIC/FESTIVAL_B11

Services Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja Icelandic citizenship although some Useful Numbers 09-16. www.kleif.is every last Saturday each month, start- exceptions exist to that general rule. Emergency number: 112 Information on day tours, accommo- ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Applications are at the Ministry of Police: 569 9000 Getting Around dations, car rental and everything else Church also has masses in English and Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Medical help: 1770 Public transport you need to know when travelling in Polish. Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Dental emergency: 575 0505 The only public transport system in Iceland. Other religious movements in Reykja- www.domsmalaraduneyti.is AA: 551 2010 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland Visitor vík are for example: Unemployment benefits: Director- Information: 118 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, The Muslim Association of Iceland, ate of Labour, Public Employment Telegrams: 146 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.icelandvisitor.com Ármúli 38 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Tax Free Refund dren. Complete route map at: www. A travel agency offering travelling Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 www.vinnumalastofnun.is Iceland Refund, bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 package trips and custom-made tours Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 Icelandic social security number Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on as well as car rental, day tours and The Church of Evangelism, (kennitala): National Register, Bor- www.icelandrefund.com weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- accommodations for visitors. Hlíðasmári 9 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Laundry Service ends Tourist Information Centre The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, www.hagstofa.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Rent a bike Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Víghólastígur 21 Driver’s license: Those who have a Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, www.visitreykjavik.is Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Offers information for tourists as well Fríkirkjuvegur 5 one for the first six months. After that Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, as providing internet access, booking Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 time you have one month to apply for Post Office Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is service, a phone centre, money ex- Roman Catholic Church, an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- Post offices are located around the Tourist Information Centre, change service, tax refund and selling Hávallagata 14 tions are at police stations. city as well as in the countryside. Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, The downtown post office is at www.visitreykjavik.is vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and Taxi busses, various museums, Reykjavík Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, info on opening hours visit www. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, swimming pools, The Family Park and Seventh-Day Adventists, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. posturinn.is. Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Suðurhlíð 36 felagsthjonustan.is Stamps are also sold in bookstores, BSR, Tel: 561 0000 the National and University Library. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, gas stations, some grocery stores and For disabled travellers The Icelandic Tourist Board Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Facts on Iceland tourist shops. Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Independent Church, Iceland is a constitutional repub- Embassies and Consulates Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. www.visiticeland.com Háteigsvegur 101 lic with slightly more than 300,000 in Iceland randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- All information needed before travel- The Russian Orthodox Church in inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the Aldrei fór ég suður: Now More Than Ever United States, Laufásvegur 21, el_service/ ling in Iceland. Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 country’s capital since 1786 and today Tel: 562 9100 A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- Goethe Institute The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 almost two-thirds of the population United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, vík, can be found at tourist offices. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Trade Unions live in the greater capital area. Text by Haukur Magnússon Photos by Hörður Sveins Tel: 550 5100 Car rentals www.goethe.de/island The Icelandic Federation of Labour, The 17th of June 1944 Iceland Russia, Garðastræti 33, Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, A cultural institute that offers movie Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is became an independent republic. Tel: 551 5156 Tel: 554 6040 screenings, lectures and German The Federation of State and Mu- That day is the national holiday and is The 1974th Annual Easter-festivities will soon ing a venue, sound system or transportation part of its charm stems from the intimate at- being in the small, remote town of Ísafjörður. China, Víðimelur 29, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 language courses. nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, celebrated all around the country. be upon us, as will the fourth annual ‘Aldrei for the mass of people. Luckily, some good mosphere it provides. But then there’s the fa- “Well, one important thing is that ev- Tel: 552 6751 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Nordic House Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is Alþingi, the national parliament, Fór Ég Suður’ (I Never Went South). Both are people got involved early on; the first festi- miliar urge to invite all your friends to join the erybody involved with the festival donates For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, The Association of Academics, Bor- is the oldest assembly in the world, excellent reasons to celebrate with friends. val went over smoothly and has been steadily party. “One of the problems we face at this their work, so there’s a lot of goodwill in the Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.nordice.is gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is established at Þingvellir in 930 but Every Easter since 2003, and this year will growing since.” point,” a member of the AFS committee told air. Everybody comes together to make it as sions/icelandic-missions/ Tel: 587 5544 The Nordic cultural centre organises Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- be no exception; the cream of Iceland’s musi- the Grapevine, “is the sheer number of qual- good as possible. Another thing is that the Internet Access Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, various cultural events, conferences www.efling.is liament is comprised of 63 members, cal crop has collectively made its way down Growing out of proportion? ity acts applying to play. We couldn’t possibly audience is comprised of ‘regular people’ in Most coffeehouses have wireless Tel: 565 3800 and exhibitions. The Commercial Workers’ Union, who are elected by popular vote every to the heart of the West Fjords, to the town The number of artists and acts appearing host all of them, but the year-to-year increase the respect that, you know, it’s not a spe- Internet access. Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 of Ísafjörður (pop. 4.000). More specifically: at the festival has been steadily increasing in performing artists is telling of how much cific crowd out for a specific type of event, if Computers with Internet connections Tel: 577 6050 offer brochures, maps and information Union of Public Servants, Grettis- years of age have the legal right to to its harbour, where they join local artists since its inception. It has grown from about we’d like to.” you catch my drift. It’s just everyday people are available at: Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600 for travellers. gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is vote. on-stage to celebrate the pure, unabashed 20 (the first line-up included Mugison him- – entire families – coming to check out the Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Airlines Useful Websites Parliamentary elections were last joy of music. A celebration of local talent and self, Kira Kira, assorted Sigur Rós members Widening the frame event, getting exposed to very eclectic music BSÍ Bus Terminal, Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Useful Information www.visitreykjavik.is (The official held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of rural heritage along with the best of what’s playing country-music and a band fronted One of the tenets of AFS is that relatively alongside their favourites. I think it’s beauti- Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Where to learn Icelandic as a tourist website of Reykjavík) votes going to the Independence happening in the capital, the ‘Aldrei Fór Ég by legendary troubadour and AFS mainstay (or completely) unknown local talent gets ful that your grandmother, for instance, will Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, foreign language www.gayice.is (Information about Party. The Social Democratic Alliance Suður’ Festival (AFS for short) is the brainchild Siggi Björns) to the point where 30-35 acts as much leeway and attention as nationally see Kira Kira, The Nine Elevens and Hairdoc- The Reykjavík City Library, www.eyjaflug.is Icelandic on the Internet, the gay scene in Iceland) got 31 percent, the Progressive Party of Ísafjörður’s own Mugison, one of Iceland’s are set to appear this coming April. There renowned acts such as Benni Hemm Hemm tor while waiting for her local Accordion So- Tryggvagata 15 Bus Terminal www.vefskoli.is www.fjolmenningarsetur.is 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 most celebrated new musicians. have been talks of making the festival into a or Mugison. Nobody gets special treatment, ciety to come on. And it goes both ways: the The National and University Li- BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Mímir Continuing Education, (The Multicultural Centre) percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- two-day event, or adding an extra stage, just nobody gets paid, but everyone seems to ‘underground’ crowd coming to check out brary, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is www.hostel.is cent. The Independence Party and the Here is a true statement: Some of the best to fit all these bands on the daylong sched- have fun, as the organisers usually face a the aforementioned artists will get to see Tourist Information Centre, Samferda.net Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, (Hostel International in Iceland) Progressive Party formed a coalition ideas are born over glasses of beer. The story ule. Among those scheduled to rock an old barrage of applications from Icelandic and Siggi Björns strum his acoustic guitar or Villi Aðalstræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 www.vinnumalastofnun.is and together lead the government. behind AFS – which has by now been re- warehouse on Saturday 7 April 2007 are the international musicians wanting to partake Valli play the piano. They also might need to Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 traveller. You log on to the website Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, (Public employment services) Iceland has 12 ministers with the peated ad nauseam by the Icelandic media, aforementioned Blonde Redhead, legendary in the affair. Mugison says, “The festival is widen their frame, and this is a chance to do Opening hours www.samferda.net, choose your Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) prime minister and head of govern- including the Grapevine – goes that Mugi- rock bands Ham and Mínus, Pétur Ben, Lay a non-profit event and thus we charge no that. It’s also more fun than most festivals I’ve Bars and clubs: According to regula- destination and hopefully find a travel The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is son and his father were sitting in a London Low, Ampop along with Mugison himself. entry-fee. Rather, the festival is paid for by been to.” tions bars may be open until 01:00 on buddy to share the cost. ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.simaskra.is also chairman of the Independence pub some years ago, when they started jok- And then there’s the local talent, of which sponsorship, so we don’t offer any monetary weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (Icelandic telephone directory) Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur ing about hosting a grand music festival in there is plenty – some even say that one of compensation – although we supply our per- The Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Festival will take place Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Cultural Centres and Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, Where to get … Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in their tiny home-town. And now they’ve got the results of AFS is a revival in Ísafjörður’s formers with lodging, food and parties. The in Ísafjörður on April 7, from around 2pm ‘til closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tourist Offices Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Work and residence permit: The office since 1996. He is the Chief of Blonde Redhead performing. garage-band culture. Also, a mountain choir weekend is more about getting together in late. At the time of writing, the following acts and Smáralind as well as most super- The Intercultural Centre www.ir.is Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð State although his duties are mostly “We were basically enthusing about how and a troupe of rappers represent the suburb a decent small town with likeminded musi- were confirmed to appear: Ampop, Benny markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre throws oc- The University of Iceland – Depart- 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. ceremonial. cool it would be to see [legendary Ísafjörður of Flateyri, while the Mayor of neighbour- cians, performing for an open and unpreten- Crespos Gang, Blonde Redhead, Bloodgroup, opening hours. casional cultural events and confer- ment of Continuing Education, Insurance and benefits: The State Time Zone: GMT 0 fisherman] Dóri Hermanns singing ‘Shaking ing Bolungarvík (an avid concert promoter), tious crowd made up of people of all ages Charly, Donna Mess, Dóri DNA,Dr. Spock, Swimming pools: weekdays ences but its main purpose is to be an Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). the Blues Away’ in his raspy voice before giv- Grímur Atlason, will perform with his own and professions. Ever since our first run we’ve Esja, Fjallakórinn í Önundarfirði, Flateyrar- 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 information and counselling centre www.endurmenntun.is 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is International Dialling Code: +354 ing up the stage to someone like Sigur Rós,” rock band. had a lot of visitors from out of town check- rapp, Flís og Bogomil Font, Flæði, FM Belfast, although some may be open an hour and serve as an advocate for the rights Religious movements Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Weather: Average temperature dur- Mugison told the Grapevine. “For some rea- While it’s fun to theorise that AFS could ing out the festival – the atmosphere here Grjóthrun í Hólshreppi, HAM, I Adapt, Jan longer. of immigrants in Iceland. The national church in Iceland is the come from a Nordic country, foreign ing summer is around 10ºC and winter son, the idea stuck with us, we started look- someday rival some of the larger music fes- is very friendly and festive during the whole Mayen, Lay Low, Mínus, Mugison, Óli Popp, The State owned ÁTVR liquor Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses citizens have to have had an unre- 0ºC. For information on weather in ing into it and before we realized it, we had tivals in Iceland – or even Scandinavia (Nor- week leading up to it.” Pétur Ben, Pollapönk, Reykjavík!, Siggi Björns, stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat www.ahus.is are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 stricted residence permit in Iceland for Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902 recruited more than 20 bands without even way’s annual By:larm festival, for instance, I ask Mugison what he feels sets the festi- Skriðurnar, Skúli Þórðar og Sökudólgarnir, 11-18. Icelandic Travel Market in churches all around the capital. at least seven years in order to get an 0600. giving thought to logistics such as procur- started out much the same as AFS) – a large val apart from others of its kind, other than it Slugs, Sprengjuhöllin, and Æla.

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The Reykjavík Grapevine and Bad Taste in collaboration with Thule and FM Reykjavík present: Take me down to Reykjavík City Onetheclearestof signsdegenerationof whenis Is the ultimate message of GusGus then that of “Well, I guess you could call it that. Liberation well as the music to the edge of reason. And people fuckin’ dig that. Understand?” 9Z\ZcZgVi^dc Earlier in our talk, Veira spoke an ofunderlying degenerationtheme or concept as he had wanted for the album. When pressed on the subject, he his relays vision of the state of the thatwestern it has world reached today, its peak and is slowly but deterioratingsurely and degenerating right now. seen “We’ve this happen with every great culture,” he says. “Our grip on the world is declining. Something will replace it, but we don’t know what. That’s causing a lot of anxiety in society. People are afraid of the idea of anarchy, of the unknown and of each other, and that causes countries like the US to react violently to ensure their place in this faltering world. People are naturally scared, that’s a normal phase. societies lose their value know systems;what our values we are anymore. don’t 150 years even it agowas very clear what we stood for and would fight butfor, the lines have blurred and a lack of direction has taken their place. This makes people scared, as I said, but it also invites for new ways of doing things. What’s happening is the degeneration of the old, an invitationand achance to try something new.Really, the parties in Rome were probably never duringas the last fundays of the empire.as One of the things we’re saying in our music is: anything goes. Listen to your heart.” escapism, of dancing while the city burns? from the fear of change. Even thoughlot of therescary thingsare going a on in the world as it day isyou can’tto be afraid of finding your own ways, of being true to yourself and independent of reigningforces and values. There’s nothing more to be found there, we need something new, and in order to liberatedbeneeddegento weandolddothatthe from erated.” GusGus will celebrate the release of Forever with live showa at Nasa on March 24. www.gusgus.com www.myspace.com/gusgus ------Every member of GusGus, or just people in gen “Every person, of course [laughs]. We are all a “You try and create something new while on interview,whereBank & Klinkour to talkthe turn I idea that every person is a saint…” eral? part of God, you know. Not made by have him, a partbut in him,we in the divine. We all keep a part theof divine within ourselves. And this whyisweare all saints, and we need to see ourselves as such,respect to each other and ourselves.” I]Z:Y\Zd[GZVhdc Our talk somehow shifts to Gusgus’ notorietylive act.as Theira hometown shows, which usually take place at downtown club NASA,their party are hearty infamous atmosphere for and have surpassedlong anysince cult status bestowed upon the (thatsellsband around 1.000copies itsof each release do mestically), selling out every single time. thatthebandmealways effort putsoflot a Veiraeachinto tells concert it throws, and that they many differentiate techno bands’ from live sets by keeping it organic, sospeak.to usually“I haveeach part givenaof song available while on stage, that way I can mix and ex tend the track in accordance with room, so I thecan interact with the vibe crowd. of the stagegoingnotsettimeline.a thatbyway, Theinter actionbetween [Gusgus singer] Earth, Stebbi, myself and the crowd along with that freedom means that every show is a bit different something and new going there’s on. Therefore, invariablyit’s always very excitingto play the songs, like ‘what’ll come out of it now?’ every single night. And sometimes, when you manage to ride a successful combo to you newwind uppeaks, stepping back and going: Yes! Something awesome just happened.” theirthattoldmeliveshowsharedhe influences with sleaze-rockers Trabant. certain“A atmosphere came to be through the Klink & Bank wing we shared with thelikes ofandTrabant Ghostigital, one that defined a live show as the best place to explore the limits of the music you’re creating. Everything’s at yourgertips at fin a live show: you have the powerful sound system, the pulsating crowd and sweaty performers – the moment is now. And that creates a need to do something unique, to blossom, more than fiddling in the studio ever will. You try and take the show as ------“With those that keep searching, the music seemsmusic searching, the keep thatthose “With Veiratells me that while ithas always been parta search for the boundaries of creation, rather opting to manoeuvre their beats so they’ll work in the club. usuallythathitsounds geta the You’ll others like and is catchy for a few plays, but has no real becauselongevity, nothing special was put into it. Even if it is a great song. to have more ingredients; their music always longerhas lifespan.a Last year saw a sort-of revolution in German minimal-techno that’s really influenced the sound that’s in vogue right now. And that sound is in the vein of some of our songs from 2004, for no particular reason, except maybe that we never chase trends or make music using that’s the ‘hip’ right now. soundWe use the orsame instruments rhythm thatwe used in ’92, we do things on our own terms, coincidencepureis itandsuit whatcomesthatis out able for clubs. It’s because I am a sucker for rhythms that tear your body apart.” BdgZ@^hhi]Vc@gV[ilZg`4 GusGus seems a very trendy and fashionable band. Just witness the accompanyingthey are in all likelihood pictures. the trendiest bunch In of hip ster fact, thirtysomethings in Reykjavík, nay all of Iceland (Björk has turned 40, and she tutionis thanmore a of person).an GusGusinsti make hipster music,which in turn gets played at hipster clubs. They wear hipster clothing. They have hipster names. They have hipster haircuts, and those of them that grow facial hair grow it in a hipster fashion. Of course, this says nothing about the band or its music. If it there did, wouldthen be little more to say. centuatesButthat GusGus hasan evolved and thisseemingly fact ac thought-outimageappeal, unusualtheirfor brand of techno, which has throughout the years been decid edlyanti-celebrity. MoreKissKraftwerkthan termsin of presenting themselves, as is evident on the cover of Forever, where each member is presented iconic fashion.in an of dance music dogma that fans should experience and celebrate the music rather than its makers, the band has always had fun playing around with theirimage on album covers, etc. “Trying to personify the music, characterise it. The idea with the icons is not exactlyclaimabe toworshipped. It’smore anat like tempt to personify us in this way, and to convey the - - - - He tells me that many of the songs off the 2004 “Well, it’s true that things get dated very fast in PresidentBongo] was DJ-ing in Russia at some point. We’ve had a fair amount of success there and in the eastern bloc – too bad that the salesthere profitrarely finds its way back fromto us – so people album outsideclubupliningthe were and was hewho knew he was playing. As he was passing theone from there shouted line, ‘GusGus forever!’ someHence the name. I take it as a compliment thought thatto it has its placeour in eternity.” music, the G]ni]bhi]ViIZVg7dY^Zh6eVgi As for the delayed release, Veira explains that band members’ pregnancies are mostly to blame. “And expensivefull-timeanI have a have Ijob, lifestyle now, and a family to support. No use any playing more.” bohemianHe adds that the band actually album hadready anfor release in the summer of 2004. “It was ready and we were intent on putting it out, but I ultimately felt it wasn’t… enough. It album. was My a good wife says it was material great hadn’t advanced and enough from all.what we did But the on [2002’s] Attention, more like a spin-offalbum. I of wanted that to go further. I had conceptinmind, a which was ‘degeneration’, and feltI very strong we hadn’t gotten that tone just right then by we then. did, But and Forever is exactly supposedthe to be.” way it was version show up on Forever unchanged.as the forum GusGus However, have been affiliated with since evolving from the nine-person art as troupe is it ever began changing and, well, fickle,question thisif thosebegs songsthe are still relevant GusGustoday. simplyAre so ahead of the times that they defy trends, or make them, rather than follow? Veira has thought about this too. thisscene.Those whoputsomething outthat’sremi niscentlastof year’s sound get dismissed immediate can You ly. divide those who make our kind of music intotwo groups, what you maycall pioneers and fol lowers. The line between the two is vague, thebut for purpose of the topic, we peoplecould say working that within some the field creating are in their exploring music, just as andany artist would. And then there are the producers, whose aim is rather to make a cool song for the club, what’s in right at now the cost of their own voice. They feel no need to - - - - Programmer Birgir Þórarinsson (usually referred Playing me songs, humming melodies, explaining After a polite laugh, he answers; “No, the sto Icelandic dance music pioneers GusGus recently re leased their long-awaited fourth full-length itstracksEntitledbeenofForever,album. have GusGusmany driving Reykjavík clubs wild for a longing up anticipation withtime, the city’s dance-crazedbuild kids. Now, they rejoice. The Grapevine sat down them oneto discuss Forever, of their music, their live shows and to take part in the imminent hype-fest. The end was near and the turned heat off by hadthe time I alreadyvisited the GusGus been studio in the now-defunct Klink & Bank art factory, the place where most of their new LP, GusGus conceived. It Forever, was autumn was of 2005 and Klink & Bank was to close down in a matter of weeks. There were quiet streams of people all over; architectsand gathering musicians, packingand theproducts of artists their labour and the tools of their trade to be moved to strange new locations. toas Biggi Veira in GusGus paraphernalia) welcomed me to GusGus’ part of Klink and Bank and told aboutme their recently finished album, the sounds that inspired it and the tools used to make it. He did this for well over two hours, regardless of the cold, and of the fact that he was squeeze veryme in for busy half an and hour. That couldparticular onlyrant started, like most good monologues, with a question.stupid “What does this thing do?” pointedI at a strangeasked looking deck ofand some sorts that had a seemingly infinite number of brightly coloured cords coming out of it. He proceeded to tell me and didn’t really stop after that. the workings of various transistors, oscillators, filters and gates, he just kept on going. I remember think ing that any musical outfit that has him aboard need notworry about their creative side. His sheer interest and involvement – his passion for the music, if pardonthe cliché you –struck me then, as would it strike me when I next sat down for an interview with him nearlytwo yearsThealbum later. that wasreportedly completed two years ago was just seeing a release. This fact invites the amazingly bad pun of askingit’s calledif Forever because it took that long to come out. ry with the name is that Stebbi [Stephensen, AKA

So we cannot rewind the scene and are in weaker positions in society 8AA8@@"FÜ4"A@%(%#' examine it later on. find it more difficult to speak up Drekktu vatn – líka kolsýrt vatn! Secondly, it is not so easy, even about prejudice than those who are Reviews by Sindri Eldon and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson for us immigrants ourselves, to rec- in more powerful positions. ognize hidden prejudice as preju- 6. If you want to talk about your dice right away when it happens. experience of prejudice but cannot This was not prejudice, we think, find anybody to listen, please con- just some misunderstanding or ac- tact me. I am honoured to listen to cident. Let me give an example that you. I may not be able to act in your really happened to me. I bought a case, but I can and do act on the TV set for my children. It was a small understanding I gain from listening

F í t o n / S Í A one, but still cost some money. Af- to many people like yourselves. Var geðveikt ter I paid, with my Visa card, the Dear readers, especially Icelandic óánægð sales clerk literally threw the card readers, I understand it must be te- ÉG ER FARIN back to me, not even saying “gjörðu dious to hear somebody talk about svo vel.” Afterwards, I asked myself prejudice in this country. But those how I should understand this ges- of us who are forced to speak about ture. It seemed to me there were at prejudice also find it difficult and Í SPARISJÓÐINN! least four possible answers: 1. The burdensome. I wish that we could sales clerk does this to every cus- just say “Allt í lagi,” smile, and see Lét gamla bankann tomer. He is just rude. 2. He hap- things improve on their own. But it pened to be in a bad mood. 3. He doesn´t work like that. heyra það knew me personally and he didn´t I believe that most of us immi- Við lögum okkur að þínum þörfum like me. 4. He is prejudiced towards grants want to join with native Ice- immigrants, at least Asians. Prob- landers in improving our society and Það er grundvallaratriði að þú sért í góðu sambandi við það fjármálafyrirtæki sem þú ert í viðskiptum við. Við hjá Sparisjóðinum leggjum ably the only way to know for sure our understanding of each other. To mikinn metnað í að veita góða og persónulega þjónustu með hagsmuni og þarfir viðskiptavina okkar að leiðarljósi. Traust og gott samband er farsælt fyrir báða aðila. would be to ask him on the spot. do this, we need to talk about our But this is difficult in practice. It is difficulties as well as our successes. already almost a declaration of war www.spar.is to ask someone such a question: Toshiki Toma, pastor for immigrants: “Excuse me, but did you do that [email protected]. 20_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/LIVE REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/LIVE_21

to events this size. These rockers opened when Metallica filled a giant sports hall to its 18,000 heads capacity, so working up a restless crowd has never been a problem for these lads. Mínus played long awaited songs from their yet to be released full length album, which kept me on my toes since playing mostly hits of the wildly successful Halldór Laxness would have been a little too safe. The new material sounded heavier and more precise than the horny-party-rock music from their last album, although the poor sound in Laugardalshöll kept them from delivering it properly. Still, the crowd was having it, but for some reason, Mínus was not. Drummer Bjössi was obviously on top of his game, bringing his beats with uncanny precision. The term “into it” is an understatement when it comes to this wielder of sticks. Bass thug Þröstur dwarfed his instrument and threatened to strike thun- der on the youngsters in the front but the rest of the band seemed uninterested. Even Krummi, the smooth talking but persuasive trickster of a front man seemed to hold back. Incubus have never been more interesting musically than they are these days, but live on Good Show, Unfortunate Venue stage these clean cut fellows seem uninspired and businesslike. Yes, they can play and they are tighter than the anus of a young honey Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari bee, but with a front man that comes off as being rather shy, while the rest of the band Saint Simon has little or no presence – aside from the bass carried on conversations with the audience player who pulled his weight but to no avail Who: Lisa Ekdahl in Swedish with a thick Stockholm accent, – Incubus was unmemorable. In short, Incu- Where: NASA which fortunately is easily intelligible for Ice- Text by Helgi Valur Photo by Skari bus added little to my at-home listening expe- When: March 1, 2007 landers; and she did her best to make every- rience. one feel welcome at her show, although at Brandon Boyd’s vocal performance that There was an unusually subdued and quiet times she took her act of innocence a bit too said “Gott kvöld” with a sexy French accent. night was something to write home about atmosphere at NASA for Lisa Ekdahl’s con- far, coming off as naïve, rather than sincere. Who: Emile Simone Her music can be compared to the music of though. It’s as if his throat has a built-in auto- cert. This was her third show in Iceland in two Joined on stage by a talented and multi-di- Where: Háskólabíó great bands such as “Nouvelle Vague” and tune. My friend and I waited for him to choke years and, much like on previous occasions, mensional sidekick, whom she introduced as When: March 4, 2007 “Portishead”. on a note but it was just like it had been lifted she had sold out the venue. This particular Blomdahl (has there ever been a more Swed- There was nothing I didn’t like about Si- from one of their studio recordings… I shit venue, however, proved to be ill-fitting for ish name?), the pair managed to play about Emilie Simone is perhaps most famous for mon, her melodies were catchy and different you not. Incredible singer with perfect control the performance. NASA, usually associated eight different instruments between them. being the descendant of famous French phi- from each other. Her lyrics (the ones I un- Uninspired over his voice. That being said, this eye candy with the rowdier type of concerts, simply This compact line-up created a feeling of at- losopher Saint Simon. No, that’s a lie. Emi- derstood) were cute and honest like “Roses of a singer is not quite the communicator be- does not have the allure to do justice to a tachment that is not easily replicated with a lie Simone is most famous for the beautiful Never Fall in Love” and “I Want be Your tween songs. Of the few words he actually low-key, sit-down event. In certain parts of bigger band. soundtrack to “The March of the Penguins.” Dog.” At that point, I realised how much I Text by Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson Photo by Skari spoke, most of what he said was rather clum- the auditorium you could hear the quiet hum Before taking a short intermission about But I’d like to think there is a chance that needed a dog. The band was also great and sy and did little to contradict my theory that of the A/C over Ekdahl’s delicate delivery; eight songs into the show, Ekdahl mostly Emilie and Saint Simon are somehow con- the percussionist was into it like a diabetic at Mr. Boyd is indeed shy and a little reserved. a sound that added nothing positive to the played material from her two latest albums, nected. Saint Simon, one of Europe’s great- a marshmallow convention. When he used recent release at the time, Life Is Peachy. sports arena, Laugardalshöllin, I got a sneak- To Incubus’s credit they played a lot of ma- whole production. Olyckssyster and Pärlor av Glas, with the est thinkers, proposed a utopian meritocra- water and a concert piano to form beats I Who: Incubus and Mínus Needless to say, Korn rocked my world ‘cause ing suspicion that this show would be a little terial from their bold yet solid latest record, The bartenders were rude and hardly exception of Du Sålde Våran Hjärta. After cy where all men would be judged by their realised he was not somebody’s weirdo Where: Laugardalshöllin back then, they were young, horny and out indifferent, but – being the optimist I am and Light Grenades, and as if to underline their up to the task of tending to an audience returning to the stage, she delivered some merit and not their family history or wealth. brother but a great musician. He was so cool When: March 3, 2007 for the kill. Incubus were one of the opening in the company of a friend who maintained passion for that record, they left out obvious that was at least 20 years older than their of her more popular material from her self- On this night meritocracy came to mind for beating everything on stage for rhythm. bands for that show, sent by their label, Epic, that Incubus’ professionalism would offer super smash hits like Stellar and Pardon Me usual clientele, and with a troublesome pen- titled debut album, with Benen I Kors and I was wondering if Emilie was here on ac- This was becoming what a concert should Through the years, I have been quite vo- to promote their upcoming release. Epic had me something more than the other types and instead included a jam session as well as chant for a glass of wine instead of the rock Öppna Upp Ditt Fönster receiving enthusias- count of her musical talents or simply her be: “an experience”. Some people thought cal about my admiration for Incubus and, people hand out a two-song promo tape of shows I frequent – I kind of started going alternative versions of another old hit, Redi- crowd’s all-round demand for beer. While tic applause from the audience. sexy French look. it was pretentious. Well, too bad for them. despite my left-field tendencies and prefer- featuring music of their first major break- with the flow. fine. these transgressions would hardly be no- The loudest ovation was kept for her big- The concert started and everybody The highpoint of the night was Simone’s ences, I have been able to enjoy the music through album, S.C.I.E.N.C.E. As we entered the building Mínus had The crowd was receptive and warm ticeable at a rock show, they were blatantly gest hit, Vem Vet, which Ekdahl admitted gazed at a blue screen (not the kind that cover version of Nirvana’s “Come as You of these well-dressed Californians for many They played well, they had a musical edge just started their acclaimed sweat rock thun- throughout their set but never in the palm of evident under these circumstances. But there was the only one of her songs she has ever makes dogs fly in bad American movies) Are.” At that moment life felt perfect and years. Musically and lyrically the band has and a front man with an amazing voice but der. Working my way through the crowd I Incubus’s hand. was more to this show than the unfortunate heard people whistle in the streets. Blom- which created a very French atmosphere. time stood still. I think I even saw Saint Si- shown an impressive growth in a better and they didn’t kill it. Fast forward to the pres- couldn’t help but think that 80% of the at- My earlier suspicion had proved to be spot venue selection which, in all fairness, can dahl was quick to seize the opportunity and A strange techno guy with a hat appeared mon bobbing his head to the merit of Emilie more mature direction and I invariably enjoy ent. I have since then watched Incubus DVDs tendance that night was people under 20 on. The whole thing was indifferent, even probably be blamed on the lack of a better changed the arrangement of the song to in- on stage followed by a percussionist. This Simone’s music. If Iceland were a meritoc- their most recent albums more than older as well as live performances on the internet, years old, with the majority probably under bland, and judging from the shockingly silent alternative in Reykjavík. clude his own whistling solo, a performance was Emilie’s band. The percussionist had racy, Emilie Simone would have played for releases. which has done little to change my percep- 18. They projected the swagger of young punters (who normally raise their voices and Lisa Ekdahl is a charismatic performer. that received a hearty laugh from both audi- wild moves, like Justin Timberlake on PCP. five thousand people in Laugardalshöllin As this show approached its date, fellow tion. It was with some resentment that I minds under the influence, in a big house even scream to express their stokedness af- Her unusual, soft, but somehow gnarly voice ence and Ekdahl alike. This was an artistic event ‘cause the techno and Incubus would have played in the gut- humans who share my interest in Incubus went to this show, steadfast in my belief that party, all dressed up and far from soft spo- ter seeing their beloved bands) streaming out and her ability to write quirky little folk-pop It is easy to like Lisa Ekdahl, as a perform- guy had a hollow square he played and a lot ter and then be assassinated while singing were shocked to hear that I had little interest Incubus did not have much to offer in the live ken after a couple of rounds of beers and of the venue and into the parking lot, many tunes about lost love and broken hearts, had er and as a person, and I really hope she finds of futuristic gadgets seldom seen in music. “Whatever Tomorrow Brings, I’ll be There, in buying a ticket and attending the show. environment, let alone playing a huge arena vodka mixes. of them were probably surprised to feel the the audience captivated for the duration of the time to play in Iceland again soon, but They even dragged Kira Kira on stage, who With Open Arms and Open Eyes, Yeah.” Why? Let’s rewind a little bit. Back in ‘96, rock show in front of few thousand Icelandic Mínus are no strangers to larger than life same way I did. the show. She has a very intimate stage per- hopefully not at NASA. had a bucket of sea shells she played with all when I was a fresh faced exchange student teenagers. But I had an assignment, which is rock shows. These ambassadors of Icelan- sona, and obviously takes great joy in giving night. The final member was a cello player www.emiliesimon.artistes.universalmu- in Germany, I went to see Korn at the top of what you are reading right now. dic hard rock are irrefutably the first choice www.myspace.com/incubus back to the audience. Between songs, she www.myspace.com/ekdahllisa who played solos. Then Simon appeared and sic.fr their game in Berlin, supporting their most Walking to Iceland’s most legendary for major concert promoters when it comes www.myspace.com/minus

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been working in, with his band that is. Krummi: I was never able to develop songs from these snippets I had, because I had never found the right melody or lyrics I was looking for, so I would just file it for stor- age. When I dragged it from the storage and played it for Daníel… Daníel: …I started getting ideas from that directly Krummi: Exactly. He would get ideas, and it became something. It was like we had both been waiting for someone to come along who would allow us to convey something that we had always wanted to express. Daníel: Was it a coincidence or fate? Krummi: I would say fate, for sure. Had you been listening to each other’s music before? Daníel: Yes. Krummi: Yes, I had been following Daníel for a long time. I have always admired him as a singer and a performer. Daníel: The same here. Krummi: Some of the stuff he did in the old days is stuff that I like to listen to by myself at home and we have been coming to each other’s shows for years, where he is playing both as a solo performer and while he was playing with Gus Gus, I was there, and Daníel is always at Mínus’ shows. Daníel: Yes, it is refreshing. Expanding the be on now, but you can’t just abandon your which will be the album. playing together, and it is just such a unique horizon, to try new things, see different other projects. Krummi, you are somewhat showing a opportunity to be able to play in a band with landscapes, that’s something every good Daníel: No, you have to follow through on new side of yourself as a guitar player such a great singer, and let my dream to be a road trip should include. the commitments you have made. But when in this project. This was something of a guitar player come through. Is it a humbling experience for you to that is over, we will focus on this project. surprise to some people. Daníel: Yes, and I just get to sing. I have hear how kindly you describe each oth- Krummi: We just try to find the time in be- Daníel: Obviously, he has been in a band learned to focus on just the singing when I er? tween. That has been working for us so far. with two guitarists, so it would have been am performing, I can play a little guitar, and Krummi: Well, I am not exactly saying that We don’t look at this as something we have ridiculous if he would have been playing gui- a little piano, but if I am doing that while I we are running around naked with the hair to do; this is something that we want to do. tar as well. am performing, it just sucks the energy out dryer all night… So when is the road trip planned? Krummi: Exactly, I never had an opportu- of my performance, and I just want to focus Daníel: No… but this is of course a confes- Krummi: We can’t really say for sure. But it nity to express my inner guitar player. I have on really delivering the words. sion of love through friendship and music. will take place. We just want to rent a car, played many different instruments since I was Last words? You are both busy with other projects, drive on desolate roads and stay in obscure a kid, just being around my father (Icelandic Krummi: Just follow your own passion; that Daníel as a solo artist, and Krummi with motels and meet people that we would oth- musician Björgvin Halldórsson). I have always is where you will find true happiness. Mínus, who are just about to release a erwise never meet, under any other circum- loved playing the guitar, and always wanted Wow, are you able to top that Daníel? new album, is it difficult to find time for stances. Go to Memphis and pay our respect to be a guitarist, I am not really a great gui- Daníel: I don’t think I can. this? to the King. Just to be on the road, soak it tarist, but I can play enough. I can deliver Esja, a New Peak in the Musical Landscape Krummi: Yes, sometimes. We had decided up and get inspired. The idea is that we can the effects I am looking to deliver, and I am www.myspace.com/esja to go on a road trip that we had intended to reflect those encounters in the final product, always learning, especially after we started

Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photos by Skari

In many ways, this is an unlikely union. The quickly. We had a similar taste in music and Krummi: Exactly, it was more about just artful dodger, so Dapper Dan came easy. coalition of former GusGus frontman and shared many interests, so we became good writing music, you know, just do what we This was mostly just an inside joke for us. now a successful solo artist, Daníel Ágúst, friends. Then we started to talk about how like. We just want to make good music, re- And it’s cool. But we will not be called that known for his enchanting and delicate melo- we wanted to make music together. Some gardless of any genres. in the future. dies and experimental pop-electronica; and roots music, country music, so we ended up You mentioned that there are ten years the prince of Icelandic metal, the rough and in Daníel’s Studio one night. It was raining So, there was no intention to follow any between the two of you, and you have rugged Mínus frontman, Krummi. outside and we had been drinking a little and particular musical direction? been working on almost opposite ends Who brought them together? Merle the mood was right, so I just nailed down Krummi: No we just wanted to make good of the musical spectrum, have you Haggard, that’s who. They both share the some basic guitar tracks in the studio. Then music. learned a lot from each other? love for country and western music and for we went home to get some sleep, but when Daníel: Our lyrics are mostly about being Krummi: Yes, a whole lot. a few months the pair of them has been col- I returned the following day, Daníel had laid on a journey, taking a road trip, being in Daníel: Working with this guy inspires me in laborating under the monicker Esja making some vocals over the guitars I had recorded. motion. That is what happened when we so many different ways. music that could best be described as alter- After that, there was no turning back. We started working together. Things were set in Krummi: The feeling is mutual; to be work- native-country. Their live shows – where they immediately saw we had something special motion. That was my inspiration, that is what ing with Daníel is magical, good things just are joined by drummer Frosti Runólfsson for- on our hands, so we decided to try it. I wanted to sing about, setting things in mo- happen. To be working with someone who merly of the deathmetal group Klink, and Daníel: Yes, we felt there was a special tion and starting over. just comes up with a melody from thin air, piano player Halldór Ágúst Björnsson – have chemistry at work. Krummi: Yes, and that was one of the first from nothing, writes lyrics, and just ap- been well attended. And, after releasing a Krummi: We fit together like peanut butter ideas we had, to go on a road trip. We want- proaches this like a professional, not because few demos on their myspace.com site, the and jelly, like sugar and Cool Aid. ed to go to the Southern States in the US and he has to, but because he enjoys it. That is in duo has slowly been building quite a follow- You both come from very different mu- make music there, in the right environment. his nature, and it is very inspiring. And just ing. sical directions, and together you head But first, we had to find out if we could make the person he is. How he thinks, talks, and is A Grapevine reporter sat down with Esja off in a third direction, so to speak. music together, so we started to write, and in general. It has changed my life in certain for their first ever interview and learned a lit- Krummi: That’s right. This is common among that went so well, that we managed to write ways to know that there is such a beautiful tle about their friendship, passion for music musicians; we don’t necessarily always listen eight or nine songs in a few months. We human being in this world. and their longing for the road. to the kind of music we are usually playing. managed to create our very own distinctive Daníel: Of course I had a little more experi- At least that has been my experience. Behind sound from the beginning and that is not ence, I mean, ten years is always ten years, but You guys are in some ways an odd cou- closed doors, I might be playing Merle Hag- something that happens every day. Some the interest and the passion for music; that is ple, how did this collaboration begin? gard or the Eagles. Some people think I sit people spend years trying to find their own the fundamental issue. He has his way of ap- Krummi: Well, I don’t think we are such an at home and listen to death metal all day, or sound. It has been a very successful collabo- proaching music, I have my way of approach- odd couple. that Daníel is at home, dressed in his tight ration. ing music, and together, it is perfect. Daníel: We are both the same Zodiac neon-green pants, listening to dance music. So, it was love at first sight, so to How different is that approach? sign… That is not the case. So, we just decided to speak? Krummi: It is a bit different, but still, we Krummi: Yes, we are both the same Zodiac follow our passion for this kind of music, Krummi: Well, yeah, in a musical way, but haven’t been playing together long enough sign, there is exactly ten years between us, master it, and make each other happy. we are best friends today also. to really be able to define it properly. This is he is born in 1969, and I am born in 1979. He Where does this interest in country and Daníel: There was something magical in the for instance our first interview, and we don’t was considered to be, and is still considered blues music come from? air. really know how to behave. But that is all go- to be, one of the most prominent singers in Krummi: This is the original music. Pop and I wanted to ask you about the names ing to change. We don’t really want to define Iceland, so I don’t see much of a difference rock music comes from this music. you have been using for yourselves in how we work all too much. We just do it. between us, except for those ten years. But I Daníel: I don’t look at our music as follow- relation to this project, Spike Raven and Daníel: Krummi mentioned the improvisa- can tell you why we started working togeth- ing any genre. Of course, we draw inspira- Dapper Dan? tional element. I am used to working with er. Unless you want to do it Daníel? tion from what we are listening to, but this is Daníel: Sometimes, you have to be able to a lot of improvisation, using something that Daníel: No, you go ahead. not really a country band. make jokes at your own expense. This was comes to mind on the spot and just throw it Krummi: We had been running into each Krummi: Precisely, the music has actually just another way to spice it up a bit with in there, and then keep working on it. Krum- other through the years, and there was been developing more in the direction of some humour. mi had a large collection of guitar lines and this strange attraction between us. We re- blues if anything. Krummi: Like, Spike Raven, my name is phrases that he had been collecting for years, ally enjoyed talking to each other; we have Daníel: It was more of “joke,” so to speak, Oddur (lit: spike) Hrafn (lit: raven), and you without having the opportunity to really do similar humour and got to know each other to start making country music. know, Daníel is just always so dapper, the anything with it in the environment he has 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_TRAVEL/THE FAROE ISLANDS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_TRAVEL/THE FAROE ISLANDS_27

to be a dead end as well. In the parking lot, he makes a few more calls. Meanwhile, he offers us beer from a case in his trunk. A few calls later, he tells us that he has probably found a room. We follow him to the offices of the Smyril Line company, where we are told we can get a room in an elderly couple’s home that the company uses as a summer bed and breakfast, located on the outskirts of town. It has taken the better part of two hours and probably close to 15 phone calls, but we finally have a place to stay for the night. We all decide to go out to dinner together, heading to the Rio Bravo, a local steakhouse where we are served with fine steaks at a good price. Meanwhile, Hans Beck explains some of the local rituals to us: “The Faro- ese People drink like swine,” he says, “12-15 years ago, there was no alcohol sold in the islands. It had to be ordered from Denmark and this had to happen before Wednesday if you wanted it to be here for the weekend. It was very expensive to order just one bottle, so everyone would order a 12-bottle box. Then people would have 12 bottles of booze lying around, and they would just keep on expanded outwards, away from the water- ing the Viking Age. one employed in Iceland. As a result, fishing drinking. So there is always this box-mentali- front and up to the hills. There are great similarities between the quotas are being bought and sold like other ty when we are drinking. The Faroese people The old town is a beautiful place. From two languages, to the point where they commodities, and in the process, for the first drink like swine.” the harbour stretches Tinghúsvegur and sometimes sound like different dialects time in Faroese history, creating a class of su- above that, Niels Finsens Gøta, the two main of the same language (which they are in a per wealthy individuals. Black Gold streets in town, one being the shopping sense) although the differences are often The Faroe Islands are divided on the issue But rigorous drinking habits are not all the street and the parliamentary building stand- more than subtle. To an Icelander, the words of independence from Denmark. The popula- Faroes are known for. They have a reputa- ing by the other. The houses are small, most- invariably tend to start off in good Icelandic, tion is almost evenly split between those who tion for a strong work ethic, and, as the old ly made of wood, but encased in corrugated before they end up completely different. At favour independence and those who prefer to saying goes, they work hard and they play iron, much like the old town in Reykjavík. The times, it is more like you are trying to deci- continue as a part of the Kingdom of Den- hard. Beck, a carpenter by trade, tells us that distinctive difference is the common grass pher the drunken ramblings of an Icelander, mark. There are different opinions among there is much demand for work force in the roof, an old Viking heritage that is really only rather than listening to a foreign language. both camps: those who favour independence islands, especially in the building industry. kept alive in the Faroe Islands today. This resemblance makes it possible for are split between those in favour of an imme- At the moment, there are about 850 new A beautiful example of the grass-roof tra- us to talk to the locals in our own tongue, diate unilateral declaration and those who see apartments and houses being built in Tór- dition is the Nordic House, a cultural centre but it does not necessarily make conversa- it as something to be attained gradually and shavn, a very high number for a town of less for Faroese and Nordic culture in Tórshavn. tions easier between us. The same words are with the full consent of the Danish govern- The Faroe Islands: Remote and Isolated, yet Oddly Familiar than 20,000. As Hans Beck puts it, “Every Designed by Norwegian and Icelandic archi- often used with a different meaning, and the ment and the Danish nation. In the unionist carpenter in town has projects lined up for tects, the building is inspired by folklore and time it usually takes to figure what the other camp, many foresee and welcome a gradual the next three years.” intended to resemble an “enchanting hill of one is saying slows every conversation down increase in autonomy even as strong ties to Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photos by Skari After suffering a severe economic de- elves.” Made from natural wood, grass and to the pace of a conversation with your deaf Denmark are maintained. pression in the 1990s, the last few years stone, with large windows that let in the grandmother. We usually end up talking in My host at the guesthouse, an older and have been prosperous in the islands and the daylight, it is a beautiful building, and well English, a more efficient mode of commu- considerate gentleman puts it well when we Two days before our Friday departure to the senger from the flight asks us if the bus is All in the Family means necessary, through hardship and cold unemployment rate is now below 3%, one worth the visit. nication under the circumstances, however discuss the issue over breakfast one morning. Faroe Islands, my photographer asked, “Did leaving. Not wanting to leave a fellow coun- Icelanders often refer to their neighbouring winters, and having to rely on the sea for of the lowest figures in Europe. According to There is a very friendly atmosphere in shameful that may be. “When you move away from home, you don’t you book a room yet?” tryman stranded on foreign ground, we countries in terms of relatives. Particularly livelihood. Terji Nielsen, editor of the weekly Vikublaðið, Tórshavn. Even if it is a rather small town, stop talking to your parents,” he says. “After “It is January,” I replied. “And we are go- promptly offer him a ride into town. Fitting other Nordic Countries, such as Sweden, Nor- In some ways, coming from Iceland to the private sector is screaming for employ- where everyone knows everyone else, the lo- Rapid Changes you move out, you still want to be able to have ing to the Faroe Islands man, I don’t think we the luggage and the three of us in a tiny Su- way or Denmark; which are usually referred the Faroe Islands is not so much like travelling ees, and there are plans to loosen regula- cals are open and friendly towards guests. By The Faroe Islands are rapidly changing from a good relationship with your parents, and will have trouble finding a place to stay in the zuki Alto proves to be a small logistical prob- to as our cousin nations. This is perhaps un- between countries: it is more like travelling tions regarding foreign workforce, which the end of our three-day stay, we had gotten a simple society revolving around the fishing maybe come by for dinner once in a while.” Faroe Islands in January.” Of course I did not lem, considering that the passenger we have derstandable, given the historical relations, to an alternate reality. There is an uncanny should take effect this April. to know an incredible amount of locals, and industry and the availability of fish, to a more Like much else in the islands, the answer to realise it at the time, but that cocky attitude picked up is actually a former prize-fighter a common cultural background and similar feeling of familiarity, whether it is the nature, Around 90% of the Faroes’ export rev- people invariably waved to us on the streets modern society revolving around trade and this question is inevitably tied to oil. would come back to haunt me, much like it from the light-heavyweight division. values between the Nordic Countries. the people, the towns, or the way of life, and enue is tied to the fishing industry, although or came up to us for a friendly hello. technology. In the last 10-15 years, the Faroes usually does. The 25-minute drive into Tórshavn is a In line with this terminology, the Faroe Is- yet, it is so different. that figure is decreasing with the addition of There is a wide variety of bars in Tórhavn’s have built one of the best transportation sys- scenic route. We drive through a few small lands are more akin to a kid brother. There is high-tech companies and a growing tourist centre. There is the Café Natur, a cosy coffee- tems in Northern Europe, with all the islands Vágar Airport towns, but it is the view of the distinctive a relationship between these two countries No Vacancy industry. In the last few years, the Faroese house/bar by the harbour where young peo- now interconnected, either through sub-sea The best way to get to From Reykjavík Airport it takes about an hour cliffs that mostly catches the eye. The land that stretches beyond whatever kinship we Hans Beck, the local connection we meet people have collectively been waiting for ple congregate over a cup of coffee or, more tunnels, bridges or ferries. the Faroe Islands: and 15 minutes to fly to the Faroe Islands steeply slopes upwards towards the ocean, may have with our other neighbouring coun- through our pick-up passenger, has been di- positive results from experimental oil drillings likely, beer, before heading out to other bars, The financial sector has been deregulated International Airport, on the island Vágar, until all of a sudden it just stops and there is tries. alling different hotels on his mobile phone in the Faroese Continental Shelf. If the results such as Manhattan or Cleopatra. There is also to allow banks and investment companies Air Iceland flies directly to the which is next to the island Streymoy where a menacing cliff that goes straight down. It Norse Vikings settled both countries for about 15-minutes. It seems as if there is are positive, it will most likely put even more Eclipse, a place that has generated a small more freedom, while publicly owned com- Faroe Islands. the capital town of Tórshavn is located. looks very much like the Enron profit chart around AD 900. The two languages have not a single bed available for rent in town. strain on both the expanding real estate mar- reputation for its lively atmosphere and wild panies, such as banks, insurance and energy After collecting our bags inside the ter- must have looked. developed in isolation from Old Norse but We follow him to Hótel Tórshavn, the biggest ket and the employment market, with even nights. Right next to it is Rex, a club that is companies have been, or are in the process of minal we discover that the next bus for Tór- Our passenger turns out to be an agree- remain very similar. Both countries were un- hotel in town, but it is undergoing renova- more demand for foreign workforce. mostly for members of the older generations. being, privatised. The fishing industry is also shavn will not be leaving for an hour. After able fellow. This is not his first visit to the der Danish rule since 1380 with the origin of tions and will not accept guests for another Sadly, there was not time to sample the rest. being deregulated to allow foreign investors, short deliberation, we decide that renting a islands, so he is able to explain a few of the the Kalmar Union. Iceland received indepen- month. It seems every hotel or guesthouse is Tórshavn which has spurred much interest from Icelan- car is our best option, allowing us easy ac- oddities to us. In Tórshavn, his friend wel- dence in 1944, while the Faroe Islands are booked up. Tórshavn is the biggest town in the Faroe Is- The Language Barrier dic companies that have become very appar- cess to Tórshavn and means to travel around comes us. He turns out to be another nice now working towards that goal. There is the After making a few more calls, he jumps lands, home to nearly 20,000 of the islands’ Icelandic and Faroese are two of the three ent in the Faroese fishing industry lately. the islands. fellow and offers to help us find a place to commonality of surviving on cold, desolate in his car and tells us to follow him to a guest- 50,000 inhabitants. Like most fishing towns, insular Scandinavian languages descended Recently, a fishing quota system was in- As we prepare to leave, another pas- stay for the weekend. islands in the North Atlantic by whatever house at the other end of town. It turns out it was originally built around the harbour and from Old Norse, spoken in Scandinavia dur- troduced in the Faroe Islands, similar to the

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_TRAVEL/DAY TRIPS A Day Trip to Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Distance from Reykjavík ca. 190 km Distance from Reykjavík ca. 180 km Fly and discover Air Iceland destinations

NUUK Greenland GRÍMSEY

ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland

KULUSUK Greenland

NARSARSSUAQ Greenland Snæfellsjökull Glacier Búðir REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS Snæfellsjökull glacier, a 1,446-metre high vol- park offer plenty of interesting stuff to see Surrounded by unparalleled natural beauty, area begins as there are numerous walking cano on the western part of the Snæfellsnes and do aside from alien hunting or energy Búðir, on the southern part of the Snæfell- paths and opportunities to explore the un- peninsula, is among Iceland’s most famous searching. Covering an area of 170 square ki- snes peninsula, is known for its rugged land- touched nature. The most popular of them is WESTMAN ISLANDS landmarks. The glacier has been the topic of lometres, the national park was established scape, adventurous hiking tracks and incredi- walking the old path through the Búðahraun endless speculations over hundreds of years in 2001 with the goal of protecting the area ble scenery. Here, the activities include hiking lava field that leads to the volcano Búðaklet- as some think it to possess some mystical as well as making it easily accessible to all the trips through the Búðahraun lava field, horse tur and Búðahellir cave, both part of a nature powers. It has even been considered to be many visitors planning a hiking tour around riding around the grassy meadows, and quiet reserve. The trail, named Klettsgata, is well one of Earth’s seven energy sources. In ad- its wilderness. relaxation down by the yellow sand beach, all marked and mapped, with interesting sights dition, the glacier has inspired authors such For those looking for different excite- depending on one’s interests. and attractions pointed out along the way. airiceland.is as Jules Verne – who used it as the doorway ment there are numerous possibilities to ex- The tiny black wooden chapel, only min- After a day of sightseeing, visitors should to a passage leading into Earth’s interior in perience the glacier in an extreme way. Dur- utes from the main road, has become a sym- not miss out on a nice dinner at Hótel Búðir. / tel. 570 3030 his sci-fi novel Journey to the Centre of Earth ing spring and summer months one can for bol for the area. Traced back to the 17th cen- The hotel is among the country’s more popu- – and a couple of years ago it captured the example go skiing and snowboarding down tury, the chapel has been a popular setting lar destinations for an overnight stay due not attention of the media when alien watchers the glacier or go on a snowmobile excursion for fashion photo shoots, and it’s no wonder only to its location but classy interiors and a Get your action-packed day tour brochure from around the world flocked to the vol- with a guide. Riding down its slopes in clear why. With a view over the rocky shore the gourmet restaurant famous for its tasty fish at hotels, airports or any travel agent. cano to welcome extraterrestrials who were weather gives you the adrenaline rush of a chapel stands on a small hill with the beach on dishes. With the glacier hovering in the back- supposed to land on its top. Sadly, the guests lifetime. It truly is an amazing experience as one side and lava fields and the snow-capped ground, a more romantic and memorable of honour never showed up. the remarkable scenery adds tremendous Snæfellsjökull glacier on the other. For most dining experience in the country is hard to The glacier and its spectacular national pleasure to this outdoor activity. travellers, this is where a journey around the find.

Distance from Reykjavík ca. 180 km Distance from Reykjavík ca. 170 km /SIA.IS/FLU 34752 03/06 ÍSLENSKA

From Arnarstapi to Dritvík Stykkishólmur

The countryside landscape of the western limited). A short walk down from the park- Often called the capital of Snæfellsnes penin- during summer months. A trip to Flatey, the part of the peninsula is both dramatic and ing lot leads to the black sand beach, most sula, the small village of Stykkishólmur is con- largest island on the Breiðafjörður bay, is a contrasting where one will come across some famous for the four large rocks lying in the sidered one of the more magical municipalities worthwhile journey, as is a sight-seeing cruise of the country’s extraordinary natural won- shore. These boulders have an interesting his- in the country. Surrounded by historical sites among the thousands of small islands where ders. tory. Named Fullsterkur (Fullstrong), Hálfster- and natural beauty, the town is located on the one can spot puffins, eagles and other wild After a short drive from Búðir, the road kur (Halfstrong), Hálfdrættingur (Half-a-man) north shore of the peninsula. Characteristic of birds flying around the boat while tasting leads you to Arnarstapi, an old fishing village and Amlóði (Lazybones) they were used to the town are all its small and colourful houses, freshly caught scallops. rich with history and interesting sights to ex- test how strong the fishermen living in the built around the harbour where fishing boats After exploring everything the town and plore. Its beautiful harbour with a magnifi- area were before they could go out to sea. are docked alongside cruise ships and ferries. its surroundings have to offer, restaurant and cent view over the gulf of Faxaflói and all the There are also numerous curious sites to Activities for travellers visiting Stykkishól- café Narfeyrarstofa, located in the heart of unusual cliffs and surreal rock formations ris- explore around the Djúpalónssandur area. mur are numerous. To name a couple, the Stykkishólmur, is an ideal destination where ing up from the unfriendly ocean have made Roughly only a 15-minute walk north is Drit- Snæfellsnes Folk Museum, located inside a one can enjoy a picturesque view over the the place a popular hiking destination. vík, a small creek that used to be a bustling 19th-century wooden house, features an in- harbour before heading back home again. A short walk along the coast leads to Hell- fishing community. The path is both easy and formative exhibition worth checking out, and nar, another old fishing village, renowned for rewarding and the scenic coastline where one in the nearby area majestic mountains boast its magical beach and the small and homely will pass caves, cliffs and unusual rock forma- many scenic hiking trips. café Fjöruhúsið. From here one can either tions, explains why the peninsula is supposed The town is also the gateway to the walk or drive to Djúpalónssandur beach (driv- to provide a sample of all that Icelandic na- Breiðarfjörður islands and several companies ing would be recommended if the time is ture has to offer. organise daily boat trips from the harbour Car provided by Hertz, Tel.: 522 4400 Ad Culture House Magazine (PHIL) 255x200 11/8/06 4:29 PM Page 1

30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 03_2007_PARTING SHOT

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ISSUE THREE: MArch 09 - APRIL 12

Stuffed with stuff It is easy to like Lisa Ek- ����������� dahl, as a performer and as a person, and I really hope �� she finds the time to play ������������������� in Iceland again soon, but hopefully, not at NASA. Sveinn Birkir Björnsson reviews a Lisa Ekdahl concert. Page 21

It has changed my life in certain ways to know that there is such a beautiful hu- ����������������� man being in this world. Esja do their first ever interview. Page 24 ������������������������� ��������������������������� Once again, a Grapevine food critic faces the almost ���������������������������� insurmountable task of reviewing a meal that was damn near perfect, and do-

ing it without sounding like TAX RETURN 2007 �������������������

Id. no. of the filer Id. no. of spouse Return to

at thinly veiled advertise- Municipality, December 31, 2006 ��������������������

Name and address Tax commissioner use only ment or a love letter. Family status Domestic injury �������������������������

insurance Remarks Haukur Magnússon dines at Austur-Indía For application mark x here ��������������������������� Fjélagið 1 General information 1.1 Dependant children born 1989 or later, domiciled with the filer at the end of the year 2006 Single parent ����������������������������� The filer must (If the filer is a Page B12 check and single parent correct mark x for verification). the information regarding his dependant �������������������������� children.

1.2 Joint taxation of spouses and cohabitants: A mark from both spouses is required otherwise joint taxation is not granted. ���������� Mark x for application Id. no. of spouse or cohabitant In the case of a joint taxation of spouses it is sufficient for either of them to fill out 1.3 and 1.4

I hate generalizations but it The tax authorities can grant a deduction from the filer’s taxable base if he supports a youngster with insufficient income to support himself or herself, 1.3 f.ex. if he is attending school, in which case the name of the school must be stated. The application applies mainly to youngsters aged 16-21. 526 Name of school 527 Id.no. of youngster 528 Income of youngster seems like there is a gen- . . ������������������������� eration of men that have . . grown up and consider it 1.4 Notification of property change or other information Account for any purchase or sale of real estate on the form RSK 3.02 �������� absurd for women to be op- ������������������������ posed to being depicted as 1.5 Calculation of seaman’s credit. Calculation of seaman’s credit. According to RSK 3.13. ��������������������� Seaman on boats 20 tons brutto or over Seaman on boats under 20 tons brutto � money-shot recipients. Seaman’s salary 317 . . Seaman’s salary 318 . . Days at sea 291 Days at sea 292

Paid inheritance �������� Inheri- Marvin Lee Dupree reflects on the cancel- 1.6 Received inheritance Id.no.of testator tance . . tax . . ��

lation of the Snowgathering conference. With this signature the filer verifies that all information filed on the ������������ tax return is, to the best of his or her knowledge, correct. Jointly taxed couples and cohabitants must both sign the tax return. Date/signature Telephonenumber �

Page 10 RSK 1.10 Page 1 ����������

Incubus have never been more interesting musically than they are these days, but live on stage these clean cut fellows seem un- ���������������� inspired and businesslike. Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson attends an Incubus concert. Page 20