The Grapevine Goes Scholarly • Is

The Grapevine Goes Scholarly • Is Environmental Rationality at Odds With Democracy? Is Environmental Discussion Inherantly Flawed? • Could Icelandic Energy Serve Server Farms?

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 7 // June 1 - June 14 2007 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_YEAR 05_JUNE 01_JUNE 14 Opinions 05 The Grave-digger and the Bell-Ringer The Reykjavík Grapevine An opinion by Magnús Björn Ólafsson Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 05 To Be Green or Not to Be Green [email protected] An opinion by Marvin Lee Dupree www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Published by Fröken ehf. 21 Kolviður: A Noble Idea Gone Wrong An opinion by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 21 The Fate of Small Town Iceland Publisher: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] An opinion by Haukur S. Magnússon The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Articles Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] 06 Hydrogen (Brain) Power Editorial Interns: Zoë Robert / [email protected] An interview with Þorsteinn Sigfússon Chandler Fredrick / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 08 Iceland: A Hot Server Spot? Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Iceland and Internet data centres Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson / [email protected] 10 One Giant Step for Mankind Contributing writers: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Ecological “footprinting” Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] 12 Reykjavík Bike Punks Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Ræbbblarnir and the bike scene Proofreader: Jim Rice

Press releases: [email protected] Features Submissions inquiries: [email protected] Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 14 The Nature / Culture Duality General inquiries: [email protected] Approaching a unified view of nature The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly 16 Democracy and Environmental Rationality from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing Discord between democracy and environmental issues in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be Music & Nightlife subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around 18 CD Reviews road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres.

20 The Night the P.A System Blew You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Motion Boys, FM Belfast, Sprengjuhöllin and Hjaltalín in concert Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). 20 Orchestral Manoeuvres in London Benni Hemm Hemm at London’s Catch Printed by Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press in 30.000 copies. Outside Reykjavík 26 Walking Trails Near Reykjavik 28 Sólheimar: A Trip to an Eco-Village info. B1 Listings B7 Ghetto Yoga B10 Festival of the Sea B11 Motion Boys Interview B12 Food Reviews

From the Editor’s Chair Green is the catchphrase of the day. As PR firms For those who fear the serious tone in the Frascaroli’s article on the need to change bend over backwards in order to establish eco- feature section of this issue, rest assured that the way we approach environmental discus- conscious images for their clients, the current we will probably return to our usual tongue sions. While Frascaroli has been a frequent marketing mantra seems to be: all that is green in cheek reporting in two weeks time. contributor to the Grapevine in the past, I will bring you the green. Having devoted over five years of my life believe this to be his best work yet and an This is not a positive development. We to the study of philosophy, I am extremely important input for anyone who has given a cannot afford to lose this discourse to the pleased to have an opportunity to present an second thought to these matters. hands of the marketing powers that be. So, article by the philosopher Ólafur Páll Jónsson While this issue of the Grapevine will prob- the Grapevine goes green. on environmental rationality and democracy. ably not be regarded as a watershed moment It has been a while since we have done If it is even possible to speak of a rising star in the struggle for sustainable development in a theme issue, but this time we decided to in Icelandic philosophical circles, Ólafur Páll the future, We are extremely proud to have focus on environmental issues and do our Jónsson is surely it. Although it is unusually fought the good fight. I hope the discussion best to bring the discussion to the people. The academic in tone for the Grapevine, I urge that is offered on the pages you have before discourse has to take place in a democratic you to read it. At this point, we cannot afford you will be able to make some people think public forum, free from the financial influ- to dumb down the discussion to appeal to twice about their environment and their ac- ences on the one hand and free from people’s the lowest common denominator. It is our tions upon it. Heck, even if it would be only prejudices on the other. We need an intelligent responsibility as citizens to make the extra one person, it would all be worth it. It is a and open discussion on how we are going to effort to grasp the discussion of environmental cliché, I realise. But sometimes, all you really deal with this situation that we have created issues and partake in the public discourse. need to turn the tide is one good person. and which could threaten our very existence. Our future is at stake. So, the Grapevine goes scholarly. I would also urge you to read Fabrizio 04_RVK_GV_ISSUE 07_2007_LETTERS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_OPINION_0

GREEN Sour Grapes The Grave-digger To be Green or Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]. and the Bell-ringer not to be Green Dear all, Góðan dagin! not only my time, but also the time of those you have chosen My name is Augustin, I live here in Iceland and some of to send your e-mail to as well with such incredible nonsense. Text by Magnús Björn Ólafsson Text by Marvin Lee Dupree you know who I am. I found your e-mails from the cultural “…but also the time of the other recipients of this nonsensical centre website and the purpose of my letter is to speak for email.”Especially after you called me earlier to threaten me I’m a ridiculous man – all too familiar with outside hysterically ordered him to step back; I remember when being Green, or whatever Because, as you all know, some people just those guests in Iceland who can’t (for a reason or another) with legal action. self-contempt and self-mistrust. I envy those when the astounded Levi asked Why? – why it is called nowadays, was generally referred can’t handle the truth. Those who scoff at speak for themselves. I know how much your all are busy with Helgi Valur, an accomplished musician himself, wrote a who can sleep, who can ‘dream’ without should such an act, which contradicts no rules to as being: an environmentalist, a hippie, or green thinking seem more inclined to try and your life but because of the dignity we all share and the values glowing review of the Konono no1 show where he concluded imagination… who can have that clarity dis- and is of no apparent damage to anyone, be rather tastefully, a weirdo. It was like being rationalize whaling by saying: they eat all the we all stand for in this new country, take a few minutes to that the show was a great experience by all standards. The tilled upon them by ‘meaning’… who seek rejected? – the guard replied: Hier ist kein in a constant state of committing a faux pas. fish. There you have Solomonian wisdom at read and possibly respond to the following: full clause by Helgi Valur, which you refer to without any profound moments… where all is still while Warum! – here there is no why.’ The complete Around the same time I was rather young its finest. The same kind of Icelandic person As part of the ongoing Reykjavik Art Festival, a lot of you context what so ever, reads: “Mingiedi, the Jimi Hendrix of life is such a blunder; comfort must be found absence of ‘Why?’ demonstrates Power par and quite into Captain Planet, the cartoon, never recycles, as he or she sees no point in might have been entertained up to some level by the diversified, the likembé, had been standing still all evening only moving in such blindness. excellence – whether you need a bearded and his band of eco-conscious friends who it – and considers the epitome of modern colorful and at times breathtaking performances done by our his thumbs. Now he walked on stage dancing, shaking his But there is one miserable being, dear metaphysical clause to anchor that or not. would often thwart the dastardly plans of culture to be the cultural wasteland that is dear guests from other countries. These entertainers varied hips like a twenty-year-old porn star in a music video. “What reader, who I loathe even more than myself: Politics make strange bed-partners, over- conglomerate corporations bent on raping the American mass consumer society. If these a lot in their cultural demonstrations, backgrounds and in as a cool dude!” I could hear many people utter.” The Politician – and I sometimes wonder how cast by the shadow of the recent Icelandic Mother Earth. people got to decide Iceland’s future I am sure much as their financial ability could truly speak out, yet with Now, your statement that Helgi Valur compares Mingedi to this mysterious creature can think… and feel. governmental transformation – where the so Since then, a lot has changed; being Green that we would become the 51st state with 50 the shared and intrepid goal that was to entertain! a porn star is an incredible stretch at best. He uses an analogy I will, however, not make a thorough study of called ‘left-wing’ Social-Democratic Alliance has, essentially, become quite hip, at least in aluminium smelter plants to boot. On Friday the 18th of May an orchestra called KONONO N.1 to describe a certain movement of the hips by a “cool dude” its face. I will only listen, and remain an ever and the right-wing Independence Party were Europe and especially in England. There even On the other hand, being Green has be- was on-stage to do just that. Subsquent to that performance, who happens to be the “Jimi Hendrix of the likembe.” How present critique – and never so epitomizing united in a perverted Midasian embrace – I the trashy tabloids that report daily on environ- come a fashionable vote baiting commodity an article appears in the Grapevine journal by a certain Helgi you reach the conclusion that this man’s reputation needs arrogance as to criticize people: I leave that must ask the question which so many have mental issues, focusing on carbon footprints, in the agora of Icelandic politics. The main Valur who dare compare one of the dancers as “a twenty year to be redeemed or that Konono no1’s reputation has been task to the ignorant and truly clever… Power asked before me: Was Fukuyama correct when both the ones we leave and the ones that we proponenent of Green values hitherto has been old porn star in a music video”(reference to the full article is unjustly destroyed by this clause is not only blatantly ignorant, structures will be the only objects of this petty he wrote The end of History and announced generate with our shopping and how products the political party, the Left Green Movement, on the link below). it is just plain stupid. inquiry: the death of ideology? Is there space to be arrive into our shopping carts. Hence, it would and of course they have put Green politics Aghast by the article I decided to make a phone call to Be that as it may, what sets your letter apart from other Every human society is overrun by diverse found for a fundamental ideological debate seem that England along with other countries on the map here in Iceland – although at a Grapevine in order that they gracefully redeem this defense- nonsensical letters I receive is the incredible tastelessness to forms of Power, which rule our acts and regu- if the ‘left’ is embedded in the ‘right’? Is a such as Sweden and Germany seem to be price. If you cast a vote for Left Green, you are less man’s reputation by publicly apologizing for the publication try to evoke correlation or compare this to the case of Don late our trains of thought, whether we like it capitalistic democracy the only imaginable leading the way towards greener lifestyles and casting a vote for nanny state politics, which of such abusing words, to no avail. Imus or an accused child molester in Ísafjörður who sadly took or not, and Power is a key element in the for- possibility from the eternal multitude of infinite policies. is a steep price indeed; not to mention their Forget not that on the 10th of January last year, a man in his life after his name was leaked to the press. As well as your mation of all social-structures: a painter seeks possibilities? Are we not men anymore? Have So that raises the question: Where does occasional shelving of Green values for political Isafjorður took his life due to irresponsible libel (article here suggestion that people can expect to be attacked on the pages power over his paint-brush, a politician seeks we lost the naïve talent to ask Why? – the tal- that leave Iceland? Are we looking ahead gain. Not to be “left” out of the mix are the below) which in fact prompted the writer to resign at DV after of the Grapevine for being foreigners. legislative power, the media seeks power over ent of interpretation which makes us human or lagging behind with China and suburban Independence Party, priding themselves with a massive series of protests. There is absolutely no correlation whatsoever, and the mere social debate, a parent seeks power over her – the talent to criticise power-structures? Has America? The answer might not be as simple generous clap on the shoulder: we have seen Comparatively, in the beginning of April this year a famous fact that you should bring this up is both incredibly tasteless, child as a teacher seeks power over his pupil; the childish Why? quite simply, been sent to as one would want to believe. On my way An Inconvenient Truth as well. The sad fact that commentator on the CBS Corp subsidiary in New York by the and again, beyond ignorance. The mere attempt to compare and this master-slave dualism will be evident the gas-chamber? here, right now I am writing this article in lovely remains is that being an environmentalist is name of Don Imus was shown the way out of his job because the two and bring the discussion down to that level and to throughout human history ad infinitum… Wel- The grave is open, the bells are ringing, eco-friendly café Kaffi Hljómalind, I counted still on the fringe of Icelandic society, although of the equally “cool racial gibe” after advertisers such as send out a mass e-mail suggesting any correlation is a much come to the hierarchy. and ideology is being buried alive... Left- and the cars that were driving down the street to we have made progress, e.g. hydrogen buses, General Motors, Procter & Gamble deserted the radio station more serious attempt at destroying a man’s reputation than But, Power ‘itself’ is not a simple concrete right-politics are dead clichés! you say. Well, this exact spot. I counted 66 cars, despite the carbon footprints (kolvidur.is) and numerous (find links below as well). anything said in the review by Helgi Valur. object which can be scrutinized in a dark labo- let me remind you, that to become too easily fact that I walked rather briskly. Moreover, at other initiatives. These are few among many other cases of irresponsible The Grapevine is largely written by foreigners and has ratory until we have determined its essence and afraid of the cliché, is to become one yourself. least twenty vehicles had only one occupant However, being an environmentalist doesn’t reporting being met by responsible reaction! always been supportive of the immigrant community. Your finalized its fundamental nature. Power ‘itself’ They… (The Cliché), grasp us, not we them; – and since I have been here there has been really mean you have to conform to some kind The point I would like to make here is that Helgi Valur was attempts to suggest that people can expect to be treated is so much more deceitful and Machiavellian when the emperor walked proud and naked a car driving down the street at ten to fifteen of stereotype or adhere to certain politics, it wrong to write those words and should apologize immediately badly by the Grapevine based on their nationality are extremely than we can ever imagine; like gravity, it is in the New Clothes, his subjects could not find second intervals. Hundreds and hundreds of is more of radical new Social Contract that in the following Grapevine Issue. That band that came to Iceland offending. invisible, unattainable, and thus, in order to words sublime enough to describe his elegant cars creep along slowly for the weekend glance depends on the cooperation of everybody to entertain Icelanders was invited for that same purpose! A If anything, I believe that you owe both Helgi Valur and me examine its true essence, we must study the attire. It was not until someone finally broke the of Laugavegur and its part-time denizens. involved. So, here is hoping that more Iceland- well deserved farewell to the band should have required and an apology for your false statements and your merciless attack way it announces itself before our very eyes object of illusion that the herd started laughing: Personally, I do not understand the appeal ers ride a bike, use local transport systems or an appreciation, least of which is to recognize that they do on his person by sending out a mass e-mail full of unfounded – we must wait for it to show its face – like Can’t you see that the man is naked! – it was of watching other people walk down the street use cars less, demand less packaging in their what they do for a decent living. It only appears that Helgi’s accusations. gravity exposed itself to Newton in the form a child who spoke out. A good argument is from a car. Emitting carbons and wasting oil groceries and recycle. The change has to start life -and profession for that matter- isn’t that much laudable Your decision to not only write your letter from the relative of a falling apple. always better than bad peace. driving down a street seems to be a popular with Icelanders that have an irrational phobia than theirs, because to be called a “porn-star in a video” is safety of not supplying your full name, that is anonymously Power is perfectly reflected in the absence I have no political-compass… all I have is leisure here in Iceland, known as “rúntur”, of being Green. Because, of course, one of our defamatory by all rational thinking, especially when you are but also creating a special e-mail address (grapevine-issue6- of a single, innocent, little word: ‘Why?’ When my all too human heart. which is sort of like a ‘50s style teenage leisure national pastimes is talking about how great not one. Thus, Helgi should get a lesson now rather than later. [email protected]) to send it from is cowardish, and this childish question is nowhere to be found, activity in some suburban nightmare with a the country looks. Somehow I don’t think Ice- He should also be able to acquaint himself with the happenings it suggests that you may not even be confident in your own an unconditional obedience to the current (In this text, there are references to a few Freudian edge. My question is why is this so land is as attractive with Marlboro packages, in the media industry in order to learn the basics of what is claims. state of affairs is unveiled; an unconditional philosophers (most of whom are long-dead), popular here? Are these the same people who coke cans, aluminium plants and various trash right and what is wrong in connection with media reporting. obedience which is encapsulated in a well but it would be barbaric of me to name any throw trash on the street, do not recycle and scattered around – not to mention the fact After you have read this, all I would simply like to ask you to I will be waiting for that apology. known example of Primo Levi’s experience in of them; so in the spirit of the late Derrida, I scoff cynically with the typical Icelandic stub- if the country (and world) finally becomes a kindly forward this letter to: [email protected] or editor@ the notorious Auschwitz concentration-camp: chose not to fragment my debt of gratitude bornness at the term “global warming”? true uninhabitable wasteland because “To be, grapevine.is and feel free to make any further suggestions as ‘When the thirsty Levi reached for a pile of – or to quote Montaigne: I quote only others From my own personal experience, I seem or not to be: that is the question.” I just think is deemed seemly. snow in the window-sill of his shed, the guard to quote better myself.) to have discovered one thing about “certain” the answer needs to be a resounding yes. The Konono group is gone, voiceless but their reputation Icelanders – yes here comes the generalization. unjustly destroyed!!! Perhaps today it was Konono, tomorrow it Be that as it may, what sets could be someone related to you and just because he/she would then be a foreigner does not justify Helgi’s writing style. your letter apart from other nonsensical letters I receive Was Fukuyama correct when he wrote The end of Thank you all, Those who scoff at green thinking seem more inclined Augustin is the incredible tastelessness History and announced the death of ideology? Is to try and rationalize whaling by saying: they eat to try to evoke correlation or there space to be found for a fundamental ideologi- Augustin and others cc’d. all the fish. There you have Solomonian wisdom at It was with utter disbelief and disgust that I read your incred- compare this to the case of Don cal debate if the ‘left’ is embedded in the ‘right’? ibly tasteless and ill-advised e-mail. its finest. I cannot even begin to understand the general suspen- Imus... sion of common sense to reach the absurd conclusions you present as facts. I find it saddening that you choose to waste

Cappuccino + bagle + yoghurt = 650 kr. 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_INTERVIEW/ENVIRONMENT

I see the present energy GREEN system on Earth as something we have inherited from some stone age and burning these hydro-carbons as we do is not the sustainable way of treating Earth so I realise that a fuel which is renewable, like hydrogen, is necessary to break this vicious circle that humankind is in.

way as say diesel. It requires a lot of volume. It’s like the same volume of a gasoline tank using hydrogen gases will only lead to a third of the range. But, has it been done before [converting fishing boats to hydrogen]? Yes, I tell you what, the Russians have even tried hydrogen on airplanes. Boats – yes, it has sort of been done in limited experiments. There are submarines in Germany that run on hydrogen. And, in one year from now Icelandic New Energy will be working with hydrogen in a whale watching boat. The whale watching boat will be installing a partial hydrogen system. So when you are on the [whale watching] spot you can shut off the main engine and run on a quiet battery-like hydrogen system. The discussion on hydrogen has been on- Hydrogen (Brain) Power going for some time. What’s new and why do you focus on it? I see the present energy system on Earth as Text by Zoë Robert Photo by Leó Stefánsson something we have inherited from some stone age and burning these hydro-carbons as we do is not the sustainable way of treating Earth Þorsteinn Sigfusson is Professor of Physics at fleet and now airplanes is a question of lack things needs to be reduced a lot. To give you so I realise that a fuel which is renewable, like the Science Department of the University of of security of delivery of fuels so there’s been an example, our kind of benchmark is the cost hydrogen, is necessary to break this vicious Iceland. Sigfusson, who currently chairs Ice- quite an interest in Iceland to try to replace this of producing a diesel or gasoline engine which circle that humankind is in. But at the same landic New Energy Ltd. (a promoter for using with domestically produced fuels. is about $35 per kilowatt. Now our cost of time I realise that it is going to be very difficult hydrogen as a fuel in the transportation sector What options do we have? Iceland is a producing a hydrogen engine is unfortunately – there are no patent solutions. This is quite in Iceland), has been leading the effort of brin- rather cold country so bio-fuels à la Brazil are maybe five times higher and this needs to be a challenge and this is why I am interested in ging Iceland to becoming the world’s first hyd- not really in the picture here but there is a well gradually reduced and the market will not it. It’s a challenge from many points of views rogen economy. Sigfusson holds a Knighthood known possibility to split water using electricity accept this until we have a competitive price. – societal, scientific... we are looking towards for his work and was also recently awarded – its called electrosis – and make hydrogen and [...]. But you know, countries or civilizations will a paradigm shift. A paradigm shift in energy, (along with a British and Russian scientist) a we started doing that at the beginning of the need generations to change the fuel base and in fuels on Earth has not taken place. In the Russian “mini-Nobel Prize” energy award for new millennium. We started Icelandic New in the last century we for example changed whole history of humankind we’ve been bur- his pioneering research on hydrogen, to be Energy Ltd as a spin off from the University of the energy system twice. First in the 1920s ning things and we go to the hydrogen thing presented by President Putin in St. Petersburg Iceland. The aim of Icelandic New Energy was to hydro-electric power and then in the post it’s a different story all together. on June 9th. A Grapevine journalist sat down to help to create a hydrogen energy society. World War II period to geothermal. I think New things happening? Well, what I could with Sigfusson to discuss the award and the We started by setting up a hydrogen fuelling the first half of this century will be devoted tell you is that if the government of for example state of hydrogen technology in Iceland. station and gathering a lot of experience for to alternative energies replacing oil. the US had the same vision for hydrogen as Note: This interview was conducted just the world market. For example, when we first There’s been a shift in focus in the discus- they had for the moon race – they simply prior to the recent elections and therefore got the [hydrogen] buses in 2003 the sensitive sion on the environment. In the past, hydro- defined a goal and put more money into it any reference to the government is referring hydrogen system could not withstand frost, but gen-electrical and geothermal power was the – we would solve this thing in five years. So to the now former government. now these systems can go to -20°C so a lot focus but in recent months the focus has been my message to you is that we need some sort of learning has been provided for the world on reducing the direct impact of humans [eg. of a moon race for hydrogen. You won the award together with two from here. carbon emissions and waste disposal]. Why has Leading up to the elections, many of the others. How does that work? Are there any plans for any more [hydro- it taken this long for that shift to take place? parties have a green agenda. Do you think The official explanation is that Professor Sigfus- gen powered] buses? There were two things that motivated our this is going to continue [after the elec- son gets it for the research and development of The buses will be ready in I think 2009. Da- work in hydrogen. One was energy security tions]? hydrogen as an energy carrier and the impact imler Chrysler is expecting a new generation or insecurity with the import of oil and gas Yes, I think so because I think environmental in Iceland and the world. The two other scien- of buses where they have used the learning and the foreseen limit of availability of oil on discussions are here to be. It’s an amazing tists get it for different things. There’s no use curve from here and elsewhere to improve Earth. The second is the situation with the at- transition that has taken place. When I started to mention it but they also bring the size of the systems. mosphere – the emissions. Actually, Iceland by talking about the need for this towards the the prize to the same level of the Nobel Prize. You might also want to know about the converting the car fleet to hydrogen we would end of the 20th century, some of the advisors We’re talking about 37 million ISK for my part sort of work I’ve been doing in Iceland on hyd- reduce our carbon emissions dramatically. So of our government said “Well, we don’t really – it’s an amazing thing for a scientist. Halldór rogen. I defined something I called geo-thermal right now Icelanders are probably spewing out believe in this man-made CO² thing – is it real?” Laxness of course won the [Nobel] prize in ’52, hydrogen. So it’s the link between geothermal 11 tonnes of CO² per capita per year whereas and you don’t hear these views anymore. But that was a similar thing, and he bought himself energy and hydrogen which has been the con- the OECD average is maybe 7. America’s is of there were advisors to our ministers who cla- a Jaguar car. I’ve been joking that I will try to tent of my own research. For example, I have course the dirtiest – it’s maybe 23 tonnes per imed this. It was amazing and actually these get a hydrogen powered Jaguar. been extracting hydrogen out of geothermal capita per year. If we could get the [car] fleet voices were fuelled by I think some of the What is Iceland’s place in the world in the gases. I have been using a geothermal system over to hydrogen – and the fishing fleet – we oil companies who really thought that they area of hydrogen? to power a hydrogen compressor and things would probably go down by more than half, would be in a better position if they put some I would start by telling you that in the course like that and my graduate students have been so it would be dramatic. doubt into the whole discussion. Last year the of the 20th century Iceland gradually displaced quite active with me in this realisation. So this But, with the fishing fleet – is that somet- secretary of the Royal Society in London sent since 1972 a lot of fossil fuels from its portfolio. It for would be my own unique contribution to the hing that is realistic? Obviously you would a very harsh letter to the CEO of Exxon Mobil example displaced the use of coal for heating old science. need a new fleet? US saying that it was shameful to notice that ICEWEAR clothes and products are available at the following stores: houses in Reykjavík in the period after the So, what does it take to make hydrogen That’s an excellent question because running Exxon Mobil had been supporting funds to Reykjavík: Rammagerðin, Hafnarstræti 19, Bankastræti 14 - Ullarhúsið, Austurstræti 3, Reykjavik – Thorvaldsenbazar, Austurstræti 4 Second World War and right now the use cars produced or available to people on the fishing fleet [on hydrogen] is going to spread this doubt. Islandia, Kringlan Shopping Center - Víkingur, Hafnarstræti 3 - Handprjónasambandið, Skólavörðustíg 19, Laugavegi 64 of renewables is about 72% of the whole a mass scale? How is this going to take require a lot of infrastructure investment – yes. Maybe you can’t really compare it... but it Ull og Gjafavörur, Hótel Sögu, Lækjargötu 2 – Hitt Hornið, Laugavegi 100 – Álafoss Verksmiðjusala, Laugavegi 1– Ísey, Klapparstíg 30 country’s portfolio – which is the highest in place? And the old trawlers will last for almost [anot- sounds a bit like the story of tobacco. Other locations: Blue Lagoon, Svartengi – Rammagerðin, Flugstöð Leifs Eiríkssonar – Eden, Hveragerði – Geysir Shops, Haukadal the world. Next is New Zealand with 57%. So I would say that we are probably today in a si- her] 40 years so we have to assume that such No, [...] I was at a conference last year and this Byggðasafnið Skógum - Víkingur, Akureyri – Rammagerðin, Akureyri - Mývatnsmarkaður, Mývatn – Mývatn ehf, Skútustöðum, Mývatn the fact that we have to import our oil and milar position as the makers of the combustion a transition will have to take a long time and analogy was taken. And what is the situation Tákn Sport og Útivist, Húsavík - Sæferðir, Stykkishólmur - El Grillo, Seyðisfjörður – Álafoss Verksmiðjusala, Álafossvegi 23, Mosfellbæ gasoline to Iceland – there’s no coal import automobile engine in 1907. It’s a technology then another problem with hydrogen is that with tobacco’s health these days? Zero doubt. Drífa ehf, Sudurhraun 12 C, 210 Gardabaer, Iceland, Tel +354-555 7400, Fax +354-555 7401, [email protected] anymore – for the transport sector, fishing in its infancy and the cost of making these it is very difficult to compress in the same So, this is the world we live in. 08_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_ARTICLE/ENVIRONMENT

What these large compa- Special offer GREEN nies find so inviting in Iceland is the fact that the country is rich with cheap environmentally friendly energy.

it really isn’t timely to talk about that part yet. I think these companies are serious about Iceland being a possibility but when anything will be decided is hard to say. We are willing to sell energy and examine the infrastructure, but the next steps are up to the companies. What we [at Reykjavík Energy] need to do now is to be a feasible option for them.” Halldór Jörgensson, the managing director of Microsoft in Iceland, shares a similar view and hopes that a new submarine cable will be built sooner rather than later. After Microsoft CEO Bill Gates met with Iceland’s President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson at a convention in January, Microsoft in Iceland received an inquiry from Bill Gates who wanted to investigate the possibility of building a server farm in Iceland. Jörgensson says that the discussions are still in the initial stages though: “This is a really exciting project but I don’t want to be too optimistic. This hasn’t happened yet. We are competing with other nations Iceland: A Hot Server Spot? where the governments have been more active and participated in the process. We will just have to hope that a new government Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Gulli will show more interest in the idea and make Iceland competitive. When this could become a reality is hard to say. The next step for us Global Internet giants and computer cor- be a lot of creative work done to get them to perspective, it’s the most socially responsible at Microsoft is to do field work and that has porations such as Microsoft, Yahoo!, Cisco say yes, but as the situation is today, Iceland thing for them to do, to go where they are already been organized,” said Jörgensson. and Google are showing a growing interest has an incredibly favourable atmosphere for using sustainable energy sources. To put things in Iceland as a possible location for building international business.” into perspective, data centres are significantly New Job Opportunities data centres (also known as server farms) that Today, we have plenty of small data centres dependent on electricity and one of the rea- At this time it is hard to make any predictions would be powered by environmentally friendly in Iceland, for example at Anza, Skýrr and TM sons that Internet companies would look at as to a specific timeframe or what particular hydroelectric or geothermal energy. The com- Software Skyggnir. Picchietti says that what coming to Iceland is because of sustainable company would locate in Iceland. At the same panies currently run dozens of data centres all now needs to be done is to take what we have energy. It would be a globally responsible use time, it is hard to predict how large the data over the world, and now Iceland’s competitive and make it a bit bigger. The only thing that of resourses,” he says adding: centres could be or how many jobs they would environment and cheap energy prices have is stopping us, he adds, is a new submarine “The power infrastructure in Iceland, which provide. Numbers ranging from a couple of helped to make the country a feasible option. cable for data transportation between Iceland is really favourable for data centres, is so be- dozen up to 200 new jobs have been men- At the same time, many locals see the service and Europe. At the moment, we have two cause of the aluminium smelters that have been tioned, but it will all depend on how advanced Discounts on day tours companies as a new and more environmentally submarine cables, Cantat and Farice, but a built here. Because of the aluminium smelters, the centre will be and how much interaction friendly alternative to the aluminium industry third one would be necessary for such large it is now possible to do other things. They the centre needs. But if one of these data in the country. companies as Microsoft, Google or Yahoo! should therefore be looked at as an enabler centres will pop up in Iceland it could mean Alexander Picchietti, Director of Business to even consider Iceland as a possibility. The to now take the next step.” some positive changes for the economy. For Development and Global Services at the Ice- current cable condition is not consistent with the high-tech industry, data centres would 5% discount for 1 daytour landic telecommunication company Síminn, the advanced technology but plans have been Making Iceland Competitive mean more opportunities to employ local IT regards this idea as a positive opportunity for made for an additional submarine cable, which In May this year, representatives from Reykja- people in the country. While the centres are the country and its economy and is optimistic hopefully will be realised by the end of next vík Energy, an independent service company being built, construction workers could be that these talks will lead to something. “I year. owned by the City of Reykjavík, the town of temporarily employed and after the centres would be willing to bet a lot of money on Akranes and the local authorities of Borgar- are ready the buildings will need attendants 10% discount for 2 daytours this becoming a reality. I think that it is in fact Being Socially Responsible byggð met with representatives from Yahoo! and security. inevitable. If you look at computing and the What these large companies find so inviting in to investigate the possibilities of building server As the current situation in Iceland is, we migration to the web, that development will Iceland is the fact that the country is rich with farms in Iceland. don’t have all of the IT staff needed to service not stop, and as it happens the world will be cheap environmentally friendly energy. Run- Eiríkur Hjálmarsson, Chief Information Of- the data centres, so the recruitment of foreign 15% discount for 3 daytours an interconnected web of data centres, one ning data centres is a power intensive industry ficer at Reykjavík Energy, told the Grapevine on IT talent would be inevitable. way or the other.” and requires a massive amount of electricity, behalf of Reykjavík Energy that the discussion “We would need some foreign employees. Picchietti stresses how important it is to something Iceland could easily provide. The started almost six years ago. The company We need this expertise which would be a good fully understand what a data centre is, what it companies are also looking for a secure loca- was examining the market for electricity and addition to the Icelandic expertise and an op- Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions means to establish such centres in Iceland and tion and the right infrastructure, with both economic innovations, and one part of that portunity to educate people in that industry what kind of service we are talking about. The conditions fulfilled in Iceland. The country’s investigation involved looking into the possibil- here in Iceland,” Jörgensson explains. sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, computer technology is constantly developing location, being mid-way between Europe and ity of establishing data centres in Iceland. Current talks have focused on server farms Our brochure is available and has changed immensely in the past few North America, is an added bonus. “We informed certain companies about that would require approximately 50 to 70 Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. decades and data centres are part of that In recent years, Iceland’s cheap energy has this possibility at that time but when the cli- megawatts of power which would be an im- at all major hotels and evolution. Data centres have been around for mostly attracted aluminium giants who have mate change became a big issue last year mensely large first step. Picchietti thinks we quite a while, in fact, they have been around built, and have shown interest in building, nu- we noticed an increased interest in the idea. need to be careful making assumptions regard- guesthouses. much longer than the internet. Currently, the merous more smelters around the country, but Data centres require a lot of energy and the ing numbers of employees or the size of the data centres exist both for hosting data as well which has caused a lot of discontent among claim for environmentally friendly energy is data centres, as in the end it should depend as web services. locals and environmentalists in the meantime. important to the companies running them. on what we want to do but not on what we “As computing moves to the web, we have Using the abundant energy sources to attract The geothermal power is a renewable source can do: “We can do a lot, even populate the these massive centres, which are established Internet giants instead of aluminium companies of energy and a much better alternative than entire country just with these big buildings, for the purpose of housing equipment, con- might be a new and more attractive option. burning coal or gas which produce green- but do we want to? I don’t think so. There’s SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 nected by fiber-optic cables. It’s a concentration “Overall I think it’s a better use of our fine house gases” Hjálmarsson says adding that 1.5-2% unemployment in the country at the of lots of computer equipment to facilitate natural resources, for sure” Picchietti says add- discussions are still in their initial stage. Now moment so the question we should be focus- ÍSLENSKA this communication. That’s really what a data ing that right now the country could deploy both parties are investigating how profitable ing on is what we need now. […] But I think centre is, a big building with whole bunch of several data centres without having to dam up it would be to operate data centres in Iceland that the vested interests should be high for computers,” Picchietti explains. rivers and kill wildlife. He continues: “At the and what would have to be done to make everybody and we should work hard to make Iceland is not the only country these giant same time I think everything is a balance and that a reality, a new submarine cable being it happen.” companies are eyeing as a feasible option Iceland’s infrastructure would not be like it is an essential part of that process. As of today, nothing has been decided for their large computer buildings so I asked today if it wasn’t for the aluminium factories. When asked if there have been talks of but the discussions will continue in the forth- how reasonable it is to expect them to choose […] A lot of people like to talk about how possible locations, Hjálmarsson mentions the coming months. Establishing data centres in Iceland as the prime candidate. bad the aluminium companies are, but what lowlands of Borgarfjörður or Kjalarnes. Other Iceland could be profitable for the economy “I wouldn’t say it’s reasonable to expect I find interesting is that you have a thriving sites could be considered, all depending on the and change the employment opportunities in them to come but I would say that it’s reason- economy here in Iceland and a lot of that has conditions the companies find preferable. the country as well as bring Iceland’s knowl- Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] able to hope that they will come. In the light to do with the foreign investors that come in When asked whether there have been any edge industry to a new level. What remains of the big guys, [Google, Yahoo and Micro- through large organisations like the aluminium negotiations about energy prices Hjálmarsson to be seen is whether these talks will lead to soft] it will be a long fight and there has to companies. If you think about it in a global says: “No, we haven’t talked about prices and action. 10_RVK_GV_07_2007_ARTICLE/ENVIRONMENT

GREEN

One Giant Step for Mankind

Text by Alex Elliot Photo by Gulli

You’d need to have pretty big feet to walk in our shoes. impossible. A certain amount of simplification inevitably Our footprint is 25% bigger than the whole planet. happens when turning Mother Nature into a mathemati- However: it may be big, but it’s not clever. cal equation, and as a result there are critics. The footprint in question is a metaphorical one: it Figures based on crude estimates are often used is our ecological footprint. The tally of the renewable and little notice is taken of geographical circumstances resources humanity takes from the planet against what – as a hectare of intensive arable land may be given the the planet can regenerate. We have exceeded the planet’s same value whether in Iceland or in the middle of the annual sustainable bounty by some time in September Amazon. It is also difficult to account for multiple land each year. uses, where a forest is considered a carbon sink and not Ecological footprinting is a theoretical science, but a source of food and the food production and carbon it is measured in the most tangible and physical sense absorption of residential areas are not considered. possible: land area (usually given as gha, or ‘global Also, one person is considered to have a lower impact hectares’). An ecological footprint analysis can be car- as a member of a family household of ten people than ried out for individuals, communities, nations and all say one of three people. While true on a basic level, of humanity, but also for things like factories, offices this fails to account for their possible contribution to and even clubs and hobby groups. We can all find out over-population. our environmental impact in the form of a tangible gha Does this hair splitting actually matter though? Sup- number. porters of ecological footprints think not. They argue Notably, the ecological footprint does not include that the figures are accurate enough to show that we our use of non-renewable resources such as fossil fuels, are consuming far too much, far too quickly – and that’s metals and quarried goods – it is concerned solely with all that matters. renewable resources. The Global Footprint Network sums it up thus: “how much land and water area does Calculate Your Own Footprint a human population require to produce the resources It is worth mentioning that ecological footprints are just it consumes and to absorb its wastes under prevailing one of several footprints available to the environmentally technology?” conscious – or to be forced upon the environmentally ignorant. For example, ecological footprints take account 1.9 gha per Person of climate change, because of the atmosphere’s status as Let’s put this into context. The amount of land needed a changing system and part of the carbon cycle – with to provide food, drink and all other renewable consum- carbon contributors and carbon sinks. It doesn’t take ables – and to absorb the resultant waste – is 9.5 gha for account of where the carbon is coming from though. every American. That figure is 5.45 for the British, 4 for For that you need a carbon footprint. the Swiss and just 1.5 for every Chinese person. At the The carbon footprint is the amount of carbon emitted present population level and with present technology, by each person, company, nation or other community the planet can allow each human about 1.9 gha. through their use of fossil fuels. It is most commonly With increasing wealth and aspirations, the ecological measured in tonnes per year. footprint of the Chinese is growing rapidly – and so is You may also hear tell of such notions as bio-pro- the global population. But how are we able to live the ductivity footprints and biodiversity footprints. These are way we do if there aren’t the resources available? After more accurate ways of looking at the impact of specific all, you can’t have what doesn’t exist. land usage and our impact upon the natural habitat in The question is not just one of available resources, a given ecosystem. but more about the sustainability of those resources. And so ends ‘The Grapevine Lecture Series: Footprints We are still lucky enough to have the resources to live 101’. We hope you find it useful. For more information, as wastefully as we want, but ecological footprinting visit www.footprintnetwork.org. aims to encourage us to leave enough for future generations. Deforestation, over fishing, species extinction and carbon-induced climate change are just some of the issues that underline our lack of sustainability. Worryingly, the over-exploitation of natural resources We are still lucky enough to can actually be an exponentially increasing problem – as taking a tonne of fish from a healthy stock will have have the resources to live as less of an impact and be replaced quicker than taking wastefully as we want, but eco- a tonne of fish from a depleted stock. Just as there may not be ‘plenty more fish in the sea’, so too might we logical footprinting aims to en- ‘not be able to see the trees for the (dead) wood’. The more we damage our tropical forests, the less able they courage us to leave enough for are to regenerate. future generations. Simplified Equation Of course, measuring the impact of all human activity on all aspects of the natural world is incredibly difficult, if not 12_RVK_GV_07_2007_ARTICLE/ENVIRONMENT

GREEN

Reykjavík Bike Punks

Text and photo by Páll Hilmarsson

“We just wanted do to something!” says Ingibjörg drivers, nuts and bolts, a welding gun and plenty of Ingvarsdóttir, one of the four people who run the alterna- old spare parts, salvaged from donated bikes. But the tive bike repair shop Ræbbblarnir (punxs) at Ásvallagata Ræbbblarnir are not just about bikes. Early this month 48 in West Reykjavík. The label “shop” really does not do they put up a daytime punk show in the garden next to the enterprise justice since the service is free, although the garage. “The neighbours complained a bit… said donations are welcome. “The idea was born 2 years it was like a 5 on the Richter scale earthquake”, says ago when some of us visited the punk K-Town festival Ingibjörg laughing. “But we’ll do it again!”. in Copenhagen. Every time the festival is held there Other bike related events are on the agenda: Viktor is a bike repair shop and that’s where the idea comes really wants to have a demolition derby style bike-war from”, says Viktor Orri Dietersson Pollitz. Since then a competition and there is a Critical Mass event in the loosely defined group of 10-15 people belonged to the pipes. Critical Mass events are known in other countries �� Reykjavik Bike Brigade, swapping tips on everything bike but have never taken place in Iceland. It is a day when �� related and riding free together. self-propelled commuters of any kind take to the streets Now the name has changed to Ræbbblarnir (the three en masse – forcing cars and motorbikes to acknowledge b’s stolen from the legendary punk group Fræbbblarnir) their existence under the slogan “We Are Traffic”. The �� and shop has been set up in a rented garage in a quiet first Critical Mass took place in San Francisco in 1992 neighbourhood. Early this summer Ræbbblarnir called and has been spreading throughout the world since. �� for donations in the form of bikes people no longer The idea behind Ræbbblarnir is that there are no wanted and needed. The response was big and now customers or clients, only people participating. Any- they have a sizable stash of old bikes of any kind. “We body can bring their bike over and repair it or get help �� want people to realize it’s easy to fix a bike – you don’t repairing it. One of the organization’s objectives is to have to take it to a repair shop or buy a new one”, says raise awareness about the environment, pollution and �� Ægir Freyr Birgisson. “But this isn’t a repair service, it’s recycling. “Anybody can do anything here – there is no a place where you can learn how to fix your bike and elitism”, says Ægir. “And it should be fun… and it will �� get the tools, help and space needed”. The municipal be!” he adds. �� authorities provide the four with pay during the summer The garage is open this summer every working months through the program “Creative Summer Jobs” day from 10 to 5 at Ásvallagata 48. If you own an old �� and a partnership with Íslenski Fjallahjólaklúbburinn (the bike which you’d like to donate to the project, contact �� Icelandic mountain bike club) is in the works. Ræbbblarnir and they will pick it up from you. As any �� “This is about recycling and using old things. Some- cool kid in the world, the bike-gang has a Myspace one’s piece of trash can be valuable to somebody else”, presence, www.myspace.com/raebbblarnir and the email �� says Ægir. At the garage, every piece of equipment address [email protected]. �� needed to fix a bicycle is available: wrenches and screw- �� Happy Hour �� Every Weekday from 17:00 – 20:00 ��

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Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavik – ICELAND / +354 599 1000 www.saltrestaurant.is �� 14_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_FEATURE/ENVIRONMENT REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_FEATURE/ENVIRONMENT_15

environmental situation, however ineffectively, than supporting it. This argument undermines rights and liberty and ultimately their sense of self- without compromising our ways of living. the idea of democratic procedure as a pooling of worth. This means that the protection of various One reason to think that de- The conclusion is that while environmental preferences, and supports the idea that democratic non-political rights, such as religious rights, is inher- mocracy is not likely to guar- values may be strong in theory, they turn out to procedure is a procedure in which preferences ent in the deliberative conception of democracy. It GREEN be weak in practice because they interfere with are formed and transformed. This argument also is not an external hindrance to democratic decisions antee or encourage suitable other preferences which, even if superficial, are moves the emphasis from voting to the discussion as seen from the aggregative viewpoint. close to hand. I call this the mismatch problem. leading up to the final voting. outcomes stems from different Deliberative Democracy and the spatial and temporal frames, Democracy as Aggregation of Preferences Political Justification Mismatch Problem Democracy and What I have said so far does not really show that The conception of political justification that we get The mismatch problem derives from the fact that namely the long range of en- democracy undermines environmental rationality. from the aggregative conception of democracy is people may have definite preferences concerning It only shows that democracy, which focuses on too permissive; too much can legitimately be done. local matters, but in matters where the space of vironmental effects and the peoples’ preferences, tends to do so. But we should According to the aggregative conception, demo- effect extends into the distance, either because local focus of democratic de- take a moment to consider what democracy is – or cratic procedure is primarily about voting, which it concerns remote regions or consequences that rather, what it should be. yields a winner and a loser, and there is nothing will only become relevant decades later, prefer- cision. Environmental In his influential book Democracy and its Critics, the within the democratic standards which prevents ence orderings becomes much trickier. This leads American philosopher Robert A. Dahl presents an the winner from violating certain non-political to the conclusion that trivial local preferences may idea of democracy that fits the common concep- rights, such as religious rights, of those who lose. outweigh fundamental preferences in matters that tion of the term in many ways. Dahl suggests the In most democratic countries, various non-political are more distant and elusive. Text by Ólafur Páll Jónsson Photo by Gulli following four criteria for democratic procedure: rights are protected, but from the point of view Solving the mismatch problem seems to re- of the aggregative conception their protection is quire giving certain interests and preferences more 1) Effective Participation: Throughout the process not a matter of democracy. The protection of such weight than others by constructing barriers that Democracy is hailed as the best form of government, Rationality of making binding decisions, citizens ought to rights is seen (from the aggregative point of view) are not part of democratic procedure in the ag- but yet the countries that have been ruled by this best have an adequate opportunity, and an equal op- as an external hindrance to authoritative action, gregative sense, i.e. hindrances that constrain what form of government are responsible for the worst con- portunity, for expressing their preferences as to be it an action driven by a simple majority vote or issues can be put on the local political agenda, what sequences in the history of humanity: climate change the final outcome. They must have adequate and the action of an elected individual. political and social rights must be upheld, which and other environmental crises threaten the very living equal opportunities for placing questions on the It is interesting to consider the relevance of principle to impose, etc. However, if the situation conditions of millions of people around the globe and agenda and for expressing reasons for endorsing future generations in this context. As a matter of is viewed from the deliberative perspective, as- no part of the world will be unaffected. one outcome rather than another. (Dahl, p. 109) fact, the preferences of future generations cannot signing different weight to different interests and Some people believe that democracy itself is respon- 2) Voting Equality at the Decisive Stage: At the be taken into account in the democratic process as preferences need not be foreign to a democratic sible for this severe situation – that democracy as such decisive stage of collective decisions, each citizen laid out by the aggregative conception, since those procedure but may follow from the requirement undermines environmental rationality and plays into must be ensured an equal opportunity to express preferences have not yet been formed. This fact that persons should be shown equal respect. In superficial and unreasonable preferences while ignor- a choice that will be counted as equal in weight has severe consequences when decisions about particular, showing special concern for the interests ing long term consequences by making environmental to the choice expressed by any other citizen. In environmental issues are taken, since such deci- of future generations, say by imposing a require- decisions subject to procedural standards. determining outcomes at the decisive stage, these sions usually have consequences which extend far ment of sustainability, need not involve factors In other words, since democracy is primarily about choices, and only these choices, must be taken into the future. The example of Kárahnjúkavirkjun that lie outside the democratic procedure. procedures while environmental rationality requires into account. (Dahl, p. 109) should make this clear. The dam and the damage Showing people equal respect will directly certain outcomes, democracy has no way of guaran- 3) Enlightened Understanding: Each citizen ought done by the reservoir will be there for generations involve future generations in so far as they will be teeing environmental rationality. to have adequate and equal opportunity for discov- to come and future generations will, when time affected by the decisions in question. Moreover, ering and validating (within the time permitted by comes, have various preferences regarding the showing equal respect to individuals belonging to The Mismatch Problem the need for decision) the choices on the matter whole Kárahnjúkar project. But those preferences the present generation may require indirect concern Why can the fundamental procedures of democracy to be decided that would best serve the citizen’s had no weight in the decision to go forward with for future generations, since individuals living now not guarantee or encourage suitable outcomes in interests. (Dahl, p. 112) this project. To account for future generations, may derive their meaning of life from the thought environmental issues? Stating that democracy is about 4) Control of the Agenda: The demos [i.e. those it would of course be possible to impose certain that they may have children one day, and these procedures but environmental rationality is about who have the right to vote] must have the exclu- restrictions on the democratic procedure, such children may, in turn, have children themselves. In outcomes hardly does more than hint at an answer sive opportunity to decide how matters are to as a demand for sustainability and respect for the deliberative framework there are means to take to that question. be placed on the agenda of matters that are to certain enumerated rights. But such restrictions such distant values into account. This is particularly One reason to think that democracy is not likely be decided by means of the democratic process. would be external to the democratic procedure, i.e. relevant in the case of the environment, especially to guarantee or encourage suitable outcomes stems (Dahl, p. 113) they would be external hindrances to what could when it comes to unspoiled nature which is gener- from different spatial and temporal frames, namely be subject to democratic decision and, hence, ally regarded as an important source of a meaning the long range of environmental effects and the local Dahl outlines a conception of democracy according democracy and concern for future generations of life while being possibly, at the same time, an focus of democratic decision. This is obvious if we to which the main function of a democratic proce- would be at odds. important provider of raw materials for industry consider issues like pollution: we drive cars, produce dure is to pool the citizens’ preferences together which is driven by the immediate here and now. household waste, and eat agricultural products which and make binding decisions accordingly. In short, Deliberative Democracy The mismatch problem does not support the are produced using artificial fertilizers. All of these democracy is concerned with the aggregation of Because of the above problem (and various others) view that there is a fundamental conflict between activities pollute. But even if everyone agrees that preferences. Dahl’s criteria are meant to guarantee philosophers have looked for a different concep- democracy and environmental rationality. Why these factors are partly to blame for the pollution, that the democratic procedure is free from coercion tion of democracy, one of which is the so called people have thought so lies partly in an unaccept- it is not clear what should be done. The relation be- and the unjustified elimination of people’s prefer- deliberative democracy. Under this heading are able conception of democracy – the aggregative tween possible action and preferred consequences ences, that the final decision is enlightened, and various theories, but common to all of them is a conception. Once democracy is seen as a delib- is rather loose and, as a consequence, it is difficult that the agenda is controlled by those affected. conception of the political process as involving erative procedure based on the assumption that to form definite preferences and to reach a general more than self-interested competition governed by the state is a cooperative venue for the pursuit consensus concerning environmental actions. Against an Aggregative Conception bargaining and aggregative mechanisms (Bohman of happiness, the appearance of such a conflict Democratic decisions, on the other hand, have a The first of Dahl’s four criteria for democratic pro- and Reg, p. xiii). A further common underlying vanishes. And in general, the idea that democracy narrow focus. What triggers the need for a democratic cedure lists three conditions for effective participa- idea is a conception of the state as a cooperative might undermine environmental rationality because decision is usually something pressing and present: tion: citizens ought to have adequate and equal venue for the citizens to set themselves goals and the former is about procedures while the latter is lack of employment, a hope for tax reduction, a need opportunities (i) for expressing their preferences, to work towards them. Understanding the role of about outcomes, is not justified since the delibera- for better roads, etc. Definite preferences are easily (ii) for placing questions on the political agenda, the state in this way raises questions about the tive conception of democracy makes substantial discernible in these cases. Furthermore, the relation and (iii) for expressing reasons for endorsing one legitimacy of state action in general, in particular claims about outcomes. between available action and possible satisfaction of outcome rather than another. The third condition its monopoly on the use of force. The need for preferences is relatively tight. has little force on its own. The reasons people democracy derives from the fact that the citizens References It is easy for people to form definite preferences have certain preferences do not count in the final must take collective, binding decisions concerning James Bohman and William Rehg (eds.) Delibera- concerning issues with a narrow focus. As the space outcome, and there is nothing in the criteria which various issues, and such decisions will favour the tive Democracy: Essays on Reason and Politics, of effects becomes larger and less concrete, as is often says that a procedure would be less democratic if preferences of some people at the expense of the MIT Press, Cambridge Mass., 1997. the case in environmental issues, forming preferences these reasons were ignored. This is not because preferences of others. The basic question then is: Robert A. Dahl, Democracy and its Critics, Yale becomes more difficult. Moreover, environmental is- the requirement as such is foreign to democratic How can a state action, which goes against the University Press, New Haven, 1989. sues may demand a time frame extending far beyond procedure – it should be important – but because preferences of some people, be seen by those very that of democratic decision-making. A hydroelectric it does not fit well into the aggregative conception. people as an action belonging to a cooperative The author is an assistant professor of philosophy power project supplying energy to an aluminium Effective participation means that people’s prefer- venue to which they belong? at the Iceland University of Education. He has smelter may require decades of research, whereas ences get known, not their underlying reasons. If a state action can only be justified on grounds recently published a collection of philosophical the decision to build an aluminium smelter is reached The ordinary person takes part in a democratic which are incompatible with people’s basic values essays called: Náttúrua, vald og verðmæti (Nature, within a short time span based on market conditions procedure by casting her vote according to her and rights, such action will be deemed illegitimate Authority and Value) on the subject of envrion- and cyclical changes in the metal industry. preferences, and effective participation means irrespective of its consequences. A ban on smok- mental philosophy. The clearest example of this mismatch between that she understands what options best fit her ing in public places justified in terms of a lesser environmental values and narrow preferences is the preferences and that she casts her vote so that it worth of smokers would be illegitimate, whether struggle against climate change. By now, it has been gets counted. or not such a ban would be in violation of any proven even beyond a reasonable doubt that the Dahl might argue that if the citizens were not rights or fundamental values. The illegitimacy of climate is changing and that human produced green granted equal opportunity to express their reasons such a ban derives from an unacceptable justifica- If a state action can only be house gases are to blame. Yet, we still buy big cars, for endorsing a specific outcome their influence tion which depicts some people as having lesser justified on grounds which drive everywhere, and generally do little to reduce on the political agenda, or even on the final deci- worth than others. However, a similar ban justi- our impact when such actions would require changes sion, might be unequal. If someone has a better fied in terms of health risk towards non-smokers are incompatible with peo- in our everyday life. opportunity to express her reasons for favouring would be legitimate. According to the aggregative The opportunity to invest in forestry to reduce the a particular outcome, then she is in a privileged conception, majority vote is usually a sufficiently ple’s basic values and rights, amount of green house gases is taken as a solution position to argue that some interests, that may be good justification for action, but according to the such action will be deemed to a personal situation, even if it is obvious that the widely shared, are best served by this particular deliberative conception, people’s basic rights and practice of growing trees is (a) not a solution to the outcome. This would make her influence on the fundamental values are assigned such weight that illegitimate irrespective of problem and (b) is not sustainable (since suitable land final outcome greater than the influence of others, a majority vote may not suffice as a justification is a very limited resource). What makes investment in which would violate the principle that all interests for action. its consequences. forestry such a successful option is that it allows us to be given equal consideration. According to the deliberative conception of do something about the problem without affecting our As appealing as this argument may be, it mili- democracy, the requirement of political justification ways of living. It allows us to respond to the present tates against Dahl’s conception of democracy rather makes substantial demands concerning people’s &+TG:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%,T'%%,T;:6IJG:$:CK>GDCB:CI G:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%,T'%%,T;:6IJG:$:CK>GDCB:CIT&,REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007

Such binary oppositions as “culture vs. nature” can surely make vironmental misreading, which resulted in massive economic speculative life easier. However, it should be enough to take a losses. Fertilisers and pesticides have contributed to stagger- 6hXVhZhd[hVkV\ZYZ[dgZhiVi^dc^c glance ‘out there’ to realise how the two domains are far from ing increases in production – that is undeniable. However, it i]Z6bVodc!I]VâVcYVcYCZeVa being separated by clear-cut boundaries. They blur into each has been at the expense of public health and burdens on the GREEN other and interweave in a problematic unity. health-care systems. ]VkZYdXjbZciZY!i]ZgZXVcWZcd The radical change in our diet is rapidly leading to similar Humanising Nature outcomes. Growing consumption of meat and proteins may Z[[ZXi^kZViiZbeiViZck^gdcbZciVa A disastrous drought struck the African State of Zimbabwe in seem to be the most obvious choice for our famous “eco- egZhZgkVi^dc^[î^hcdiegZXZYZYWn 1992, decimating the crops and prostrating the entire country. nomic man”: richer foods at ever-lowering prices. The widely I]ZCVijgZ Did the international community’s sympathy go to the starving acknowledged epidemic of obesity that has spread across the Vc^cXgZVhZ^chdX^ValZa[VgZVcY Zimbabwean population? Absolutely not. It was with twenty Euro-American world over the last decade, however, might ZfjVaîn# .elephants under threat to be shot down in order to have the suggest that the “economic man” is mistaken in some of his info meat distributed among the most desperate peasants. calculations. Nature can be nurtured, we said in the beginning. Appar- Are Icelanders ready to trade their fisheries – the source Festival of Nations Installationsently it can also be humanised. at Nylo We have human 90s beings Summer objecti- of the Party country’s wealth Students’ over the last century – for a model of fied and pushed outside the borders of human solidarity and growth based on heavy industry? It does not have to be the Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli Photo by Gulli $8jaijgZ9jVaîn elephants that are welcomed into our cultural world, becom- case, but beware: modifying the course of too many glacial Photography Exhibition ingThe a matter Icelandic of concern in international Tattoo summits Festival and direct rivers Jeff may wellBuckley have repercussions Tribute on the oceanic population. beneficiaries of financial aid. And yet, nobody is likely to refuse Should the eventuality not be carefully pondered? The other day I was in Skaftafell, the most renowned National to admit that the wealth of human societies largely depends Park in Iceland. A series of didactic panels are on display in Concert Art-fest DIONYSIAon the welfare Morr and abundance Music of nature. Ghetto Still, the opposite Yoga Our FaustianFestival Enterprise of the Sea the Visitor Centre to celebrate the saga of the area. One in also happens to be true and the welfare and abundance of I am not arguing that any man-induced change brought upon particular drew my attention. The National Park – it explained The Coolest Beer in Icelandnature is Icelandictied to the wealth and Contemporary well being of society. Designour environment Food should be Reviews preventively forbidden. Our own – was instituted in order to allow nature to grow and develop Does it sound like a regression to magical thought? Per- presence, anyways, mutates the nature of “nature”. And it has in accordance “to its own rules”. For this reason, the grazing of haps. But this ancient wisdom has also begun to be accepted been proven that even a hypothetic pristine Earth would not sheep was immediately forbidden. This brought forth as a side Music, Art, Films and Eventsin highly Listings modernistic circles such as the World Bank and the inherently tend to a self-organised state of equilibrium, but affect, however, an uncontrolled expansion of lupine – a non- International Monetary Fund. It is becoming widely recognised rather be shaken by periodic cycles of disruption and chaos. indigenous and rather invasive species – at the expense of the as a fact, indeed, what havoc on the environment is wreaked But yes, any large-scale alterations produced on our surround- local vegetation. What followed was a long-term plan – still by poverty and social disruption. ings remain something of Faustian enterprise, whose after- not fully realised – to eradicate lupine. After which, nature will As cases of savage deforestation in the Amazon, Indonesia maths are often clouded in uncertainty. finally be enabled to follow its course. and Nepal have documented, there can be no effective at- In a world where man and nature are entangled in a single Make no mistake; I thought it was a commendable ef- tempt at environmental preservation if it is not preceded by and inextricable web, actions undertaken in sight of a short- fort. And yet, as I read the panel, there was something that an increase in social welfare and equality. There is no sharp term advantage can disastrously backfire over a longer peri- bothered me. The whole discourse was built upon an inherent disjunction between the realms of “culture” and “nature”. od. Both successful adaptive strategies and sound economic ambiguity. “Nature should be allowed to grow spontaneously, Rather, a constant interplay and unsolvable entanglement. management used to be grounded on the common principle according to its own laws” was the morale of the whole story. minimisation of risk. As the stockbroker who ventures into But that same story highlights how reliant on human interven- The Icelandic Viewpoint (motionrapacious andboys) rash financial operations, we have apparently tion the “spontaneity” of nature has been in Skaftafell over A number of Icelanders I have spoken to, especially in the decided to leave that basic wisdom behind and play an increas- the years. Rather than being a pristine cradle of naturalness countryside, express irritation towardsThe electro-pop the wave of ecologic duo ingly hits hazardous the game music with our scene surroundings and ourselves. In – as is commonly suggested – the National Park appears to activism recently investing the island on the wake of large- both cases the stakes are extreme: incredible gains in the im- be a place of cultivated naturality. And what is that if not a scale projects for industrialisation. “Can’t we exploit our withown mediate a bang. moment, but also catastrophic losses just behind the contradiction in terms? Is it “natural” when it is nurtured? resources and get the most out of them? Just because some corner. I believe my uneasiness had nothing to do with the history ‘romantic idealists’ in Reykjavik or some metropolis in Europe In objection to such arguments, some contemporary of Skaftafell in particular. Rather, it stems from a dominant cul- or in the US are opposed to it? They live far away from the af- prophets of “utilitarian mechanism” may remove the mask tural model, which at a deeper analysis seems unable to cap- fected areas, how can they know better than us what’s to do? of philanthropy and wear that of freedom instead. “No con- ture the nuanced reality of human-environmental relations. All they want is to keep on with their comfortable city lives straint,” they say, “no collective concern should be placed on Like a knife, Western thought has cut the conceptual bonds and still have a place for summer vacations.” That was their the shoulders of the enterprising and ambitious individual. Let between man and his surroundings, creating a split between basic argument. individual health and individual security be individual matters.” “nature” on the one hand and “culture” on the other: two When put in those terms I can agree with the objection, at In doing so, they reveal their true minds: a world of human separate domains, closed and neatly delimited. least to a certain extent, but simply because the whole issue is and environmental relations, where the well being of the few And it is not difficult to notice how this distinction is re- poorly posed. We would gain different kinds of insights if we occurs to the detriment of the most. Not only is nature human- flected in other similar opposing pairs typical of a Western started to consider human-environmental relations in all their ised; they implicitly advocate the “naturalisation” of humans. dualistic philosophy: culture/nature, mind/body, subject/ob- entangled character and to recognise their extreme complexity Making waste paper of ‘the social contract’, forgetting any ject; they all represent the same pattern of thought, applied – an endless string of actions, reactions and retroactions that previous alliance between man and his surroundings, they sub- to different levels of analysis. And according to what story one grasp “man” and “nature” in one single web of existence. To stitute all bonds of solidarity with a nightmarish vision of the reads, there is a different villain guilty of slicing a single reality start with, for example, we could reframe the whole ecologi- struggle for survival in accordance with the most vulgar read- in two and “objectifying the bodily world of nature.” In turn, cal question in purely utilitarian terms, showing that economic ing of Darwinism. And, since everything is entangled, such a it is Hebraism, Christianity, Socrates, Descartes, Positivism, Al maximisation is a slippery measure of judgement – and we struggle is going to invest the entire planet with all its inhab- Qaida… OK, the last one was a joke. But whoever is deemed would have a good chance to make a point. itants, man and nature alike: truly “a struggle of all against responsible, a reunification of our cosmos still appears far from “Energy in Iceland is both more inexpensive and clean than all”. being realised. Despite a massive speculative effort – especially elsewhere: exploiting it for industrial production is a way to in the last part of the 20th Century – our models of thought oppose global warming and not to contribute to it”. This is The Point, At Last are still prisoners of such dualistic conceptions. roughly the claim made by spokespersons for Alcoa, the mul- If there is a point to be drawn out of this discussion, then I tinational aluminium giant investing most heavily in the indus- believe that we are finally approaching it. Taking an ecological Two Conceptions of Nature trialisation of Iceland. stance is not about making dramatic choices between man This is not the case of claiming the frequently repeated false It might even be true: having no means to argue on the sci- and environment, seen as two opposite and mutually exclu- myths that other cultures are more “natural” than ours or more entific grounds of such a statement, I can only raise the doubt sive poles. It is not a matter of privileging the authenticity and able “to be one with nature”. Distinctions similar to the one whether the environmental costs for importing the raw mate- beauty of a mythical untamed “nature” over the artificial ugli- between culture and nature are present among many other rial and exporting the final products from the country do not ness of man-made industrialism and concrete; nor is it opting societies as well. But most often the dynamic and reciprocal end up levelling out the boasted benefits. for conservation, simplicity or a return to primitivism versus the character of that relationship is implicitly assessed, in some But the real point is another one. Global warming is only sirens of development and economic growth. cases even portrayed in symbiotic terms. It is this dynamism the tip of the iceberg, an instance on planetary scale of hu- No. As we are part of the same unity and talking about our and reciprocity that one day Western culture failed to recog- man-environmental relations, which have gone astray. The environment, I believe, it is like looking in a mirror: it is another nise, ultimately estranging itself from what we call “nature”. scope of the phenomenon has provided it with prominence in way to talk about ourselves. To ask questions such as: what Indeed, we always conceive of nature as different, whether public agendas worldwide – and with some right. But this can- foundations of growth and development are truly solid? What we approach it in terms of exploitation or with uncondition- not become a device to overshadow the fact that the rapport society is actually healthy? What kind of community would al respect: never of belonging and communion. On the one between man and its surroundings can possibly be problem- we want to build and live in? Our relationship to “nature”, we hand, we have those who claim that “nature” is a world of atic in a number of other ways. Any alteration brought onto will discover, is already largely inscribed in the very answers to objects and physical facts, governed by laws and regularities. an ecosystemic matrix – besides its effects on global warming those questions. Science can read it like a book; technology can manipulate it – also bears other consequences, often unpredictable and un- It is my conviction that a conscious environmental move- like clay. Man should tame it in order to benefit from its boun- expected, often visible only in a long period, often quantifiable ment would have much to gain by appropriating such in- ty and employ its resources. Quantification and reification are as negative repercussions even in economic terms. sights. the trademarks of such a conception, which I call “utilitarian mechanism.” The Lesson From Reclaiming Wetlands On the other hand are those who see “nature” as the ul- You want examples? The reclamation of wetlands is an ongo- timate Otherness. Feminine and motherly, spontaneous and ing practice justified on the ground of a myth of “develop- uncultivated; their Nature (a “nature” with a capital N) is the ment”. For the most parts, it aims at acquiring further culti- >cVldgaYl]ZgZbVcVcYcVijgZ negative to the male and man-made world of the mind and vable land. At first, it would seem to be a wise option, at least VgZZciVc\aZY^cVh^c\aZVcY^cZm" ideas. Her sublime beauty inspires our awe and devotion. Her in a utilitarian perspective: after all, it is a matter of turning exploitation is comparable to rape and matricide. I call this apparently fruitless areas into productive ones. ig^XVWaZlZW!VXi^dchjcYZgiV`Zc^c view “romantic idealism.” In the United States, however, the collective costs for such If we can agree that we have environmental problems to- an operation amount to US $11,000 per year for each hectare h^\]id[Vh]dgi"iZgbVYkVciV\ZXVc day (and I would not express many doubts about it myself), of drained wetland. And this figure only takes into consider- Y^hVhigdjhanWVX`[^gZdkZgVadc\Zg then I believe that its profound causes have to be sought in ation the increased gravity of floods (wetlands act like spong- similar conceptions and in the dualistic way of thinking that es, which soak water and limit the impact of floods) and not eZg^dY# underlies them. Either they have justified illusory and fallacious other benefits that wetlands notably bring to an ecosystem. policies of economic maximisation at expense of ecological Seen from a long-period perspective, then, is indiscrimi- awareness; or fostered an environmental counterculture that nate land reclamation a sound economic strategy? Doubting is offspring of the same mindset and as such weakened by its that claim seems more than licit. And the whole history of own premises and stereotypes. agriculture is full of episodes of poor management due to en- B2_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_LISTINGS_B3

Nylo – May 26 - July 8 Sissa School of Photography – May 26 - June 3

Bread and Animals at Nylo Students’ Photography Exhibition

Artist Anna Sigmond Guðmunds- seum. Visitors can view drawings After learning an impressive variety of with her diary entries written onto dóttir opened her exhibition inside taken from newspapers and ency- photographic techniques and styles, the photographs. One student has the living art museum Nylo on May clopaedias, cuttings from children’s the 16 graduating students from the chosen to exhibit his photo essay of a 26. Anna, who lives in Norway, is books and comic books as well as one-year photography school Sissa 10-year-old cancer patient undergo- half-Icelandic but this is her first words and sentences sprayed all are exhibiting their finals projects. ing chemotherapy. exhibition here. Her installations over the space in the form of graf- As an accumulation of their educa- Sissa claims that though they are internationally renowned. For fiti. This mix creates a large picture tion at the artistically ambitious and were not required to present a large example, she participated in the that the viewer virtually walks into rigorous school, the students were portfolio, many students were very Manifesta 4 project which took and from there can try to under- given a month and a half to com- active this year and chose to show as place in Frankfurt in 2002. stand, or misunderstand, all the pose and present a themed series many as 20 photographs. The exhi- Entitled Bread and Animals, An- small pieces in the large puzzle. of photographs in the style of their bition will be open every day from na’s installation inside Nylo’s spa- choice. Final projects range from the 14:00-19:00. cious and raw exhibition space is The exhibition is open until July 8. usual landscape studies, fashion pho- sort of like a giant painting, cover- Nylo, Laugavegur 26, 101 Reykja- tography and portraits, to poignant Sissa School of Photography, ing the walls and floors of the mu- vík, www.nylo.is compositions of an anorexic woman Hólmaslóð 6, 107 Reykjavík.

Hafnarfjörður – June 2 Austurbær - June 13 Festival of Nations in Hafnarfjörður Skari Jeff Buckley Tribute Concert Iceland’s multicultural society will be personality Siggi Hall. annual Cantare multi-lingual song NASA – June 1 In tribute of the 10 years since guest singer’s strained voice and the merchandise for Jeff Buckley. on show again at this year’s Festival Organiser Kolfinna Baldvinsdóttir contest will take place at the Haf- Jeff Buckley’s passing, Manz another singer’s developing throat Gunnarsson expects an attendance of Nations in Hafnarfjörður on June says the idea behind the festival was narfjörður Theatre located behind productions and several members infection. Those who purchased of 250-300 people, undoubtedly 2. The festival, which is in its second to give Icelanders and immigrants an the Viking Village on Strandgata. 90s Summer Party at NASA Grand Rokk – June 8 - 10 of the Reykjavik music scene will tickets were contacted and the event indicating the continuity popularity year, is organised by The Intercultural opportunity to interact and a chan- Participants will perform songs in be holding an hour-and-a-half long was rescheduled for Wednesday, of Jeff Buckley’s music in Iceland Centre and members of the immi- ce for immigrants to introduce the different languages. A last minute DJ Kiki-Ow and Curver bring you coloured jackets, smoke machines event at the Austurbær Theater. On June 13. (Buckley’s Icelandic album sales are grant community and aims to present countries they come from. change to last year’s rules means that their favourite 90s music for a and a frisky crowd cheering to Ski- The Icelandic Tattoo Festival May 29, 1997, Buckley drowned in The tribute band includes somewhere around 3,000, a high the culture and traditions of the forty “ The dialogue on immigration la- entrants can now sing in their mo- sweaty party at NASA on June 1. Bi dibby dib yo da dub dub and the wake of a passing tugboat while musicians from local bands such number for the nation). CF countries that will be represented. tely has been quite negative, so the ther tongue – but still not in English. Expect to hear Mr. Boombastic, dancing the Macarena, you better The now annual Icelandic Tattoo Fes- of the best artists in action and perhaps he was swimming in a tributary of as Dr. Spock, Ensími and Ampop. The festival will be held at the Sports greater purpose is to lead Icelanders, Páll Oskar will judge the contest and Groove is in the Heart, Pump up the get a ticket as soon as possible. tival will be held for the second time decorate your body in the meantime. the Mississippi river. Since his death, The band itself is around 11 people, For more information, visit the Centre on Strandgata in Hafnarf- to introduce them to the wonderful Bryndís Schram will take part in the Jam, Everybody Dance Now as well The party starts at midnight and during the weekend June 8 to 10. This During the same weekend, rock-pub hundreds of tribute bands have been with two main singers and four Manz website at www.myspace. jörður from 12:00-18:00 and will multicultural society we live in,” Bal- event which starts at 20:00. ZR as a bunch of danceable hit singles. tickets are for sale at nasa.is and time, the festival will take place at Grand Bar 11, (which is organising the event) assembled worldwide, including one guest singers. According to Franz com/manzproduction. Tickets can consist of booths offering national dvinsdóttir said of the festival which A special guest of the night is DJ the second hand shop Spúútnik on Rokk and features international award- presents a packed rock’n’roll programme. 5 years ago in Reykjavik. Apparently, Gunnarsson, who is putting on the be purchased at the box office at dishes and displaying traditional co- attracted over 10,000 visitors last Both events are part of the Bright Wayne Paul from the UK who will Laugavegur where buyers will get winning tattoo-artists Santana, JJ & GP, Friday will see Weapons and Átómsstöðin the event was so popular that Manz event, the Reykjavik tribute has the the Austerbær Theater, and on the stumes, as well as books, brochures year. “Foreigners in Iceland are in- Days arts and cultural festival in Haf- play some old-school 90s rave by a 20% discount on 90s clothes to Jason June & Cheryl “The Devil”, Cline in concert and on Saturday, Wolfgang decided they would do it again this blessing of Buckley’s mother, who he web at www.midi.is. and audio and visual presentations. creasing. There are only 20-30,000 narfjörður which runs from May 32 the end of the night. dress up for the party. Don’t forget & Jason Thompson, Bosco, Erin Lambert and Vicky Pollord will play to the tattooed year in collaboration with several met while working at the South by Austurbær Theatre, Snorrabraut Traditional songs and dances will foreigners but 132 nationalities – it’s – June 10 and admission is free. The two past 90s parties at your glowsticks! and Crowbar. The local contribution in- crowd. tribute events in major cities like SouthWest (SXSW) festival in Austin, 37. be performed on stage and food like [Iceland is] a world of its own,” For more information see www. NASA were sold-out hits, so if cludes Fjölnir, Jón Páll, Búri, Sverrir, Jón Dublin, London and New York. Texas. The event also has the seal of from the participating countries will she added. ahus.is you’re into the whole combo of NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2, Þór and Vincent. Grand Rokk, Smiðjustígur 6, www.mys- Unfortunately, the original May 29 approval from Fun Palace, a company TICKETS AT be judged by master chef and TV Following the festival, the second hiphop/pop/eurodance mix, neon 101 Reykjavík, www.nasa.is Everyone can stop by and see some pace.com/icelandictattoofestival event was cancelled due to one out of New York that handles all of

If you would like to be included Yo Booty # 1 Laugavegur 30 eign Monkeys, Vicky Pollard and Peer Fri 01.06 Beatles tribute show: The Royal Wed 13.06 DJ Manny Stabs Mon.-Fri. 10-18 www.i8.is May 19 – Sep 30 in the Grapevine listings, free of Fri 15.06 Benni B-Ruff / DJ’s Steinunn Legendary rock pub featuring live con- Hellirinn Philharmonic Orchestra together with Thu 14.06 DJ Bjartur Installations by Hye Joung Sat. 11-16 May 12 – Jun 23 The Road Between charge, contact the Grapevine by and Silja certs every Wednesday night and rock Hólmaslóð 2 Jón Ólafsson rockband and a group of Fri 15.06 DJ B-Ruff Auga fyrir Auga Sun. 14-16 Spencer Tunick photographic exhibition Andrá exhibition: Installations by email at [email protected]. Sat 16.06 DJ Yamaho / DJ Ladycats DJs every weekend. Fri 01.06 Norwegian heavymetal band singers, including Egill Ólafsson, Stefán Sat 16.06 Beauty and the Beast Hverfisgata 35 www.myndlist.is Kling & Bang Gallery Guðbjörg Lind Jónsdóttir, Guðrún Café Cultura Sat 02.06 Grasrætur + DJ Andrea Jóns Quiritatio in concert accompanied by Hilmarsson, Björgvin Halldórsson, Páll Sirkus Open Thu.-Fri. 15-19, Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Sells a large selection of Icelandic and Laugavegur 23 Kristjánsdóttir and Kristín Jónsdóttir. Music Hverfisgata 18 Mon 04.06 Atómstöðin, Peer and Nor- Myra, Ask the Slave and Peer Rósinkranz, Sigurjón Brink and KK will Klapparstígur 30 The Einar Jónsson Museum international art and hosts exhibitions Thu.-Sun. 14-18 The Nordic House Austurbær Music from the world’s four corners wegian heavymetal band Quiritatio in Hressó perform the masterpiece Sgt. Pepper’s Playing reggae, country and occasionally Eiríksgata on a regular basis. Free Entrance Sturlugata 5 Snorrabraut 37 Fri 01.06 DJ Böddi concert Austurstræti 20 Lonely Hearts Club Band hosting live gigs on weekdays, Sirkus’s Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Gallery Sævar Karl www.this.is/klingandbang Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Wed 13.06 Jeff Buckley tribute concerts Sat 02.06 DJ Ernir Domo Here, troubadours play sing-alongs un- Nasa veteran DJs keep the party going till late www.skulptur.is Bankastræti 7 Living Art Museum www.nordice.is/ Bar 11 Thu 07.06 DJ Böddi Þingholtsstræti 5 til midnight, followed by DJs playing Thorvaldsenstræti 2 on weekends. Permanent exhibition: Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Laugavegur 26 Perlan Laugavegur 11 Fri 08.06 DJ Örn plays disco Thu 07.06 Bláir Skuggar - Sigurður Flo- whatever the crowd is aching for at the Fri 01.06 90s party with DJ Kiki-Ow and Fri 01.06 The first Sirkus Garden Sum- The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Sat. 10-16 Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 At Öskjuhlíð A popular hangout spot for Reykjavík’s Fri 15.06 DJ Ernir sason quartet in concert time. Curver merparty featuring the opening of the The Culture House www.saevarkarl.is/ Thu. 13-22 105 Reykjavík rockers and their young idolaters with DJs Sat 16.06 Dj Böddi Thu 14.06 BonSon in concert Fri 01.06 Tryggi Vilmunar followed by DJ Sat 09.06 S.S.Sól in concert outdoor flea market and concerts. Hverfisgata 15 Gallery Turpentine www.nylo.is/ www.perlan.is playing classic rock‘n’roll hits. Café Hljómalind Grand Rokk Andri Ramirez Sat 16.06 Flex Music party: Desyn Ma- Open daily 11-17 Ingólfsstræti 5 May 26 – Jul 8 Current exhibition: Fri 01.06 DJ Gulli Laugavegur 21 Smiðjustígur 6 Sat 02.06 Pub-lic in concerts followed siello Museums & Galleries www.thjodmenning.is Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Bread and Animals Monumental Niceness Sat 02.06 DJ Óli Dóri Sat 02.06 Ræbbblarock: Bike auction, Fri 08.06 Icelandic Tattoo Festival by Dj Maggi National Theatre Basement 101 Gallery Permanent exhibitions: Sat. 11-16 Installation by Anna Sigmond Sound installation by Margit Säde Fri 08.06 Weapons and Atómstöðin in vegan food and concerts featuring Gavin Sat 09.06 Icelandic Tattoo Festival Thu 07.06 Pub-lic in concert Hverfisgata 19 Hverfisgata 18 Medieval Manuscripts; The National www.turpentine.is Guðmundsdóttir Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 concert followed by DJ Óli Dóri Portland, Deathmetal Supersquad, The Sun 10.06 Icelandic Tattoo Festival Fri 08.06 Flat five followed by DJ Maggi Fri 01.06 Concerts organized by the the- Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment Museum – as it was; The Library Room; Current exhibition: The National Gallery of Iceland Aðalstræti 16 Sat 09.06 Wulfgang and Vicky Pollard Best Hardcore Band in the World and Gljúfrasteinn / Halldór Laxness Sat 09.06 Gotti and Eisi followed by DJ atre group Hugleikur, featuring songs www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ The Road to Zion; Berlin Excursion Halla Gunnarsdóttir exhibition Fríkirkjuvegur Open daily 10-17 followed by DJ Gulli Brat Pack. Starts at 19:00 and costs 500 museum Maggi from their past shows. Starts at 22:30. Anima Gallery Current exhibition: Gel Gallerí Tue.-Sun. 11-17 Permanent exhibition: Fri 15.06 DJ Palli ISK. 270 Mosfellsbær Thu 14.06 Garðar trubadour Prikið Ingólfsstræti 8 / Lækjargata 2 Surtsey - Genesis Hverfisgata 37 Free Entrance The Settlement Exhibition Sat 16.06 DJ Gulli Thu 14.06 Dutch troubadour Jessica Sun 03.06 Tómas R. Einarsson Latino- Fri 15.06 DJ Maggi Bankastræti 12 Tue.-Sat. 13-17 The exhibition traces the emergence Mon.-Fri. 10-19 listasafn.is Reykjavík Art Museum Barinn Fri 15.06 Snobb fyrir alla concert series: trio Sat 16.06 Flat Five followed by DJ Bjarni Fri 01.06 House DJ www.animagalleri.is and evolution of the island Surtsey Sat. 10-17 May 10 – July 8 – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Laugavegur 22 Dean Ferrell + friends. Sun 10.06 Singstress Signý Sæmundsdóttir Iðnó Sat 02.06 Ladycats Current exhibition: until the present day and predicts Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Cobra Reykjavík Museum Vibrant late-night party place and a nice Café París and pianist Þóra Fríða Sæmundsdóttir Vonarstræti 2 Thu 07.06 House DJ The Last Spring its geographical and ecological Gerðuberg 3-5 A retrospective presenting the Sigtún roomy bistro during the day. Austurstræti 14 Háskólabíó Tue 05.06 Morr Music Night: Benni Hemm Fri 08.06 DJ Kári Harpa Árnadóttir exhibition at development over the next 120 years. Mon.-Thu. 11-17 international abstract artist group Open daily 10-16 Fri 01.06 Kalli and Gunni Ewok / DJ La- Fri 01.06 DJ Lucky plays soul, funk, reggae At Hagatorg Hemm, Seabear, Tarwater, Isan and The Sat 09.06 Gulli Ósóma Ingólfsstræti 8 Dwarf Gallery Wed. 11-21 Cobra Admission ticket is valid for three days dycats and hip-hop Sat 02.06 The Icelandic Symphony Or- Go Find Q-bar Artótek Grundarstígur 21 Thu.-Fri. 11-17 The National Museum in all three museums. Sat 02.06 DJ Kári / DJ Peter Parker Sat 02.06 DJ Börkur plays soul, funk, reg- chestra: Family concerts Kaffibarinn Ingólfsstræti 3 Tryggvagata 15 Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18-20 Sat-Sun. 13-16 Suðurgata 41 Free entrance every Thursday. Tue 05.06 DJ’s Steinunn and Silja gae and hip-hop Thu 07.06 The Icelandic Symphony Or- Bergstaðastræti 1 Stylish and vibrant gay / straight-friendly Mon. 10-21, Tue.-Thu. 10-19, Fri. 11- www.this.is/birta www.gerduberg.is Open daily 10-17 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Wed 06.06 Soft Rock Party: Bobby Smooth Fri 08.06 DJ Lucky plays soul, funk, reggae chestra: Carmen, short version With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- bar and party venue. Cosy on weekdays 19, Sat. and Sun. 13-17 Gallery 100 Degrees May 5 – Sep 9 natmus.is/ March 31 – December 31 and Kokomo and hip-hop Hafnarfjörður Old Library hop and classic dance hits, the DJs are and full of surprises on weekends. www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Bæjarháls 1 Paintings by Ágúst Jónsson Permanent exhibition: Folk Tales Thu 07.06 Breakbeat Night Sat 09.06 DJ Börkur plays soul, funk, reg- Strandgata 6 usually capable of crowding this frisky bar Fri 01.06 DJ Dive de la Rosa ASÍ Art Museum Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 May 12 – Sep 9 The Making of a Natio An exhibition of works by Icelandic Fri 08.06 DJ Skeletor / Tweak gae and hip-hop Sat 02.06 Bright Days Opening Event: every single night of the week. Sat 02.06 Q-Bar’s first annual Speedo Freyjugata 41 www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Kvenfólk / Women May 5 – Aug 24 draughtsmen who took on the task Sat 09.06 DJ Barcode / DJ Ernir Fri 15.06 DJ Lucky plays soul, funk, reggae Art exhibition followed by concerts with Sat 02.06 DJ Maggi Legó Night featuring Groovebox DJ set Tue.-Sun. 13-17 May 13 – Jun 29 Erró exhibition As seen by the visitor of illustrating folk tales from the oral Tue 12.06 DJ Muffins and hip-hop Grasrætur, <3 Svanhvít!, Rökkurró and Fri 08.06 DJ CasaNova Wed 06.06 DJ Baldur Free Entrance Teslatune i8 Gallery Hans Viingard Friis photo exhibition tradition. Wed 13.06 DJ Byzby / African music from Sat 16.06 DJ Börkur plays soul, funk, reg- Arnljótur + friends. Starts at 17:00 Fri 15.06 DJ Jack Schidt Thu 07.06 DJ Anna Brá Current exhibitions: Finnbogi Pétursson exhibition Klapparstígur 33 May 5 – Aug 24 April 2 – December 31 22:00 gae and hip-hop Tue 05.06 Norwegian heavymetal band Laugardalshöllin Fri 08.06 DJ Maggi Legó Of this World Gallery Fold Tue.-Fri. 11-17 Sent to the countryside The Shape of Life Thu 14.06 Steed Lord presents: Shake Dillon Quiritatio in concert. Opening acts: For- Engjavegur 8 Sat 09.06 DJ Yamaho Photographs by Katrín Elvarsdóttir Rauðarárstígur 14-16 Sat. and by appointment 13-17 Photo exhibition A new retrospective of the works by B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events

Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Installations by Anna Eyjólfsdóttir, Around Iceland – June 9 - June 19 focuses on abstract works from 1945 Ragnhildur Stefánsdóttir, Rúrí and onwards. Þórdís Alda Sigurðardóttir. Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús Outside Reykjavík Art-fest DIONYSIA Tryggvagata 17 Skaftfell IgVkZaa^c\4 Open daily 10-17 Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður From June 9 to June 19, Iceland’s coun- The project is called DIONYSIA and what the situation, the town and sur- May 11 – Aug 19 www.skaftfell.is tryside will turn into a grand art-fest its curators explain that the reason for roundings have to offer. The event will 8]ZX`djidjg My Oz May 19 – Jun 23 when a group of young artists from the the events is that the artists want to be documented and the curators have Roni Horn retrospective An exhibition by the artists Finnur Icelandic Academy of the Arts together break down boundaries between the started conversing with other creative May 10 – Jun 17 Arnar, Jón Garðar Henryson and with some friends will hit the road and City and the countryside as well as be- organisations about making a project bVcnigVkZa Works by Sigurður Guðjónsson at the Þórarinn Blöndal consisting of drive crisscross the country and arrive in tween different art genres, art students related book, an exhibition and a video D Gallery. The exhibition will include a installations, 3D and photographs. On small towns and villages for the purpose and others. The happenings will take documentary. hidg^Zhdca^cZ new film and sound installation. the same occasion, the first exhibition of organising various arty happenings. place at some obscure places, which are May 10 – Aug 17 of the summer on the West-wall opens Scheduled sites include Bolungavík, Bor- chosen for its beauty, history or value of For more info see http://www.myspace. The Erró Collection showing the collaboration of the garfjörður eystri, Djúpavík, Grundar- interest in some way. The artists will col- com/dionysia2007 or this.is/dionysia Works from the museum’s Erró Evil-Madness duet, Helgi Þórsson and fjörður, Hafnir, Hofsós, Siglufjörður and laborate with the local people to make collection: A further examination of the Sigtryggur Berg Sigmarsson. Stöðvarfjörður. some kind of an art project based on diverse subjects and stages of Erró’s Gallery Klettur artistic oeuvre. Helluhraun 16, Hafnarfjörður Reykjavík Art Museum Open Sat. 10-14. At other times by Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Films 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 – Kjarvalsstaðir arrangement. www.sudsudvestur.is Pirates of the Caribbean: Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 Flókagata Hafnarborg May 26 – Jun 17 At World’s End 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Open Daily 10-17 Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Birgir Snæbjörn and J.B.K. Ransu Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Selfossbíó Feb 10 – Sep 2 Mon.-Sun. 11-17 exhibition Fracture Events K-Þátturinn / The K-Factor www.hafnarborg.is Vatnasafn / Library of Water Smárabíó, Borgarbíó Akureyri, Hás- Festival of Nations Jóhannes S. Kjarval retrospective. May 11 – Jun 24 Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur kólabíó 02.06 The annual multicultural fiesta May 19 – Aug 26 Paintings by Temma Bell www.libraryofwater.is It’s a Boy Girl Thing the Festival of Nations, organized by Kvika / Magma May 11 – Jun 24 Open daily from 11 – 17. Smárabíó, Regnboginn, Borgarbíó Aku- the Intercultural Centre, will take place Icelandic contemporary design Paintings by Louisa Matthíasdóttir and Permanent exhibition: reyri in Hafnafjörður Sport Centre on June May 19 – Aug 26 Leland Bell Roni Horn installation. She has replaced Spiderman 3 2 from 12-18. As part of the festival, The Spark – Design for Everyone May 11 – Jun 24 stacks of books with glass columns Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Regnboginn, a multi-lingual singing contest Cantare Design exhibition, with special Installations by Ruth Boerefijn containing water gathered from Borgarbíó Akureyri, Háskólabíó will be held at the Hafnafjörður Theatre educational programming Gljúfrasteinn / Halldór Laxness Iceland’s glaciers and glacial rivers. 28 Weeks Later that same day. Reykjavík Museum museum Sandgerði Museum Regnboginn, Borgarbíó Akureyri, Hás- Hafnarfjörður Sports Centre, Strandgata Kistuhylur 4 270 Mosfellsbær Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. kólabíó 2. For more info see: www.ahus.is Open daily from 10-17 Open daily except Mondays from Until February 7, 2008 Unknown Festival of the Sea www.arbaejarsafn.is 10-17. Polar Adventures Regnboginn 02.06 and 03.06 The annual Festival of Permanent exhibition: Kópavogur Art Museum Exhibition on the life and work of the Painted Veil the Sea takes place down at the Reykjavík Objects from Reykjavík cultural history. – Gerðarsafn French polar explorer, scientist and Regnboginn harbour this weekend, featuring all sorts The Reykjavík Museum of Hamraborg, Kópavogur doctor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Severance of fun events and activities for adults and Photography Open daily 11:00-17:00 except Jónas Viðar Gallery Laugarásbíó children alike. Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor Mondays Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri The Lives of Others For a full programme see page B10 in LLL#C:#>H Weekdays 12-19 www.gerdarsafn.is Fri.-Sat. 13-18 Háskólabíó the Grapevine. Sat.-Sun. 13-17 Current exhibition: www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm The Reaping Kant’s Moral Philosophy Free Entrance Stoned glass by Gerður Helgadóttir, Jun 2 – Jun 24 Sambíóin Álfabakka 04.06 The American philosopher Robert CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is drawings by Barbara Árnadóttir and Paintings by Tolli Delta Farce June 1 Paul Wolff will give a lecture on Kant’s May 15 – Jul 4 Magnús Á. Árnason Akureyri Art Museum The Invisible June 1 moral philosophy in room 225 at the Uni- The Resistance Collection Jun 2 – Jun 24 Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri The Hoax June 8 versity of Iceland. Entitled The Completion Unnar Örn exhibition The Provincialists Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Ocean’s Thirteen June 8 of Kant’s Moral Theory in the Tenets of Safn Paintings, video-works and installations www.listasafn.akureyri.is The Last Mimzy June 8 the Rechtslehre, the lecture is open to all Laugavegur 37 and by Nordic artists Ane LAn, Asti May 5 – Jun 24 Code Name: The Cleaner June 15 free of charge. Starts at 17:00. Wed.-Fri. 14-18, Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Luihn, Madeleine Park and Þórdís Alda Rhythms of Life Fantastic Four: Rise of the Silver The University of Iceland, Sæmundar- Free Entrance Sigurðardóttir Sculptures by Australian artist Andrew Surfer June 15 gata 6 www.safn.is The Icelandic Museum of Design Rogers La Vie en Rose June 15 Women’s Bingo Night May 19 – Oct 20 and Applied Art DaLí Gallery 07.06 Every Thursday night at the Intercul- Museum of the Surface / Desire Archive Lyngás 7-9, 121 Garðabær Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Movie Theatres tural Centre will be dedicated to women / Decay Complex Opening hours: Tues. –Fri. 14-18; Sat. Mon.-Sat. 14-18 Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 playing bingo. Starts at 20:00 and each Unnar Örn J. Auðarson exhibition and Sun. 16-18. www.daligallery.blogspot.com 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 game costs 100 ISK. Coffee, cakes and May 19 – Jul 1 www.mudesa.org Current exhibition: Háskólabíó, Hagatorg great prizes. Quadro Pop Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic design. Paintings by Sigurlín M. Grétarsdóttir 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata 18, Davíð Örn Halldórsson exhibition The Icelandic Settlement Centre GalleriBOX Laugarásbíó, Laugarás www.ahus.is Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Brákarbraut 13-15, Borgarnes Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 Exchange Market at the Intercul- Laugarnestangi 70 Opening hours: May to September 10- www.galleribox.blogspot.com Smárabíó, Smáralind tural Centre Open Tue.-Sun. 14-17 20; September to May 11-17. Current exhibition: 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 08.06 Friday night is an open house at the Permanent exhibition of the work of www.landnam.is Þórunn Eymundardóttir exhibition Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 Intercultural Centre where everyone can sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Permanent exhibitions: The Settlement 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 bring things they no longer use and need Start Art / Art Shop of Iceland; The Saga of Egill Skalla- Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 to get rid of to exchange with items from Laugavegur 12b Grímsson 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 other guests. You might find some cool www.startart.is Suðsuðvestur Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg antique stuff! Starts at 20:00. Current exhibition: Hafnargata 22, Keflavík 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata 18, MÍNÍ VOTT Thu.-Fri. 16-18 www.gljufrasteinn.is Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 www.ahus.is

Woolens factory sto r e , Genuine woolen goods, located in Vik _ma_de_ in_ I_cel_an_d Also wide selection of souvenirs

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“Honestly I think that VVikingfestivalikingfestival some of the artists might underestimate how many 8-178-17 of june 2007 records have been sold because Jan did the cover. We even usually get negative feedback from our distributors whenever he doesn’t.”

Ghost That Carried Us Away, at Morr Music. Thomas explains that the friendship between Morr and Iceland began immediately after he had listened to the aforementioned first múm album, after which he contacted the group and praised their music. “They moved to Berlin and we met on a ...don’t regular basis and I just liked them even more. That’s the short version. Örvar introduced me miss it to Benni Hemm Hemm and Borko and Seabear I ‘discovered’ via a mutual French and very nice ...velcome! friend,” he adds. Morr Music: One Big Happy Family I ask what it was that fascinated him about these musicians: “Of course I like their music as to me there’s For booking and Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo of Seabear by Sindri some originality in it. I also seem to like the further information: people involved,” he says. Thomas and his Morr friends are planning Tel.: +354 565-1213 The Berlin based independent music label, Morr problems that are in front of us, the artists are Kruse has managed to create a unique look two concerts in Iceland this coming week, one Ghetto Yoga www.vikingvillage.is Music, known for its quality electronic and going to be partners who are willing to work that stands out and sort of defines the label. at Græni Hatturinn in Akureyri on June 1 and [email protected] dreamy indiepop releases is highly influential through that challenge too. As that’s what it Was this the intention from the beginning and one taking place at Iðnó Theatre in Reykjavík on in the international music world. Having previ- is these days when you run a label, you don’t how important is it to you to have such a strong June 5. The two shows in Iceland are though far Text by Zoë Robert Photo by Gulli Strandgata 55 ously released artists such as The Notwist, Lali have all the answers in place anymore and you look for the label? from being the first Morr Music Night organized Hafnarfjordur Puna, Styrofoam, B. Fleischmann, Phonem, Ms. have to question everything permanently. Some “Musically I felt mostly inspired by Wurlitzer by the label and the bands signed often tour John Soda; they have now turned their atten- deep certainty about people helps a lot.” Jukebox in the beginning. I liked the idea of together. A new yoga class has recently started in downtown “Sometimes places that teach yoga are too sanctimo- tion to Icelandic bands Benni Hemm Hemm “somehow” doing a 7” label in an album “We try to make it as comfortable as pos- Reykjavík and the best thing is that it doesn’t cost you nious about it,” he added. and Seabear. Striking Artwork format, where this whole genre was already sible and I definitely prefer to work with nice your month’s salary. GhettoYoga founder and instruc- The man behind the label is Thomas Morr, a I ask Morr whether he expected this kind of existing for some years. […] Within a couple people that are not on ego trips. I think it’s tor Bergsteinn Jónsson takes pride in not charging for Jónsson, who has been teaching yoga for around six Hamelin native who in his late twenties resettled success when he founded the label: of months I realised that it’s more challenging important to keep an eye on that factor, as a his classes. years and practicing for 13 years, teaches Hatha Yoga in Berlin to realise a long awaited dream and “When we started we had tried to create to work with artists on a regular basis and label is after all a fragile structure with interests “It’s part of growing as a person,” Jónsson said. “I for beginners and says the poses taught are specifically established his own record label. In 1999 the some kind of a label profile which was immedi- the concept was adjusted with the second B. that needs to be balanced, like a city football never wanted to make a career out of it. I just wanted aimed at preparing the mind and body for “potent, first Morr album was released, Poploops For ately communicated via artwork and a specific Fleischmann release. Our artwork’s aesthetics team,” Thomas adds. to do it for me,” he added. tantric style meditation.” Breakfast by Austrian electro musician B. Fleis- electronic sound. We were lucky that the genre remained the same and labels such as 4AD, The concerts are supposed to give the au- According to Jónsson, the story behind starting The word Hatha derives from the Sanskrit words Ha chmann. Today the label boasts 75 releases from names electronica and indietronic did not ex- Touch and Mego, influenced us. Jan and I liked dience a good overview as to where the label Ghetto Yoga is neither interesting nor romantic. “My and Tha meaning sun and moon and follows the same at least 24 artists plus some 25 more releases ist by that time. When these names became the idea of having a strong visual identity that stands today, but the show features local acts wife’s friend is a dentist and she wanted to enlarge her concept as yin-yang, balancing mind and body through on their sister labels Shake and Anost. common, quite some people said that the label was changed very often over the past year. Jan Benni Hemm Hemm and Seabear as well as practice and had some free space,” he explained. physical poses, controlled breathing, and the calming When looking for new artists and musical genre was defining and the label name was just lectured about that at the typo fair in Berlin. Berlin based electro post-rock duo Tarwater, Jónsson emphasises that his classes are available of the mind through relaxation in pursuit of enlighten- talents, Thomas Morr says that for the most easily promoted alongside that genre. I think Honestly I think that some of the artists might Belgian dance-pop group The Go Find and the to everyone. “The ideological message is to personally ment. Hatha Yoga differs from other forms of yoga in part he’s searching for something he likes and we’ve benefited from the timing. […] When underestimate how many records have been electro duo Isan from the UK. Thomas Morr illustrate that you can be an accountant and a yogi that it focuses on simple poses that flow from one to doesn’t want to be caught up in following I started I was lucky to work with artists that sold because Jan did the cover. We even usu- along with DJ Apfelblut will keep the crowd – that anyone can lead a yogic lifestyle,” said Jónsson, the other at a comfortable pace as opposed to being trends: “I guess I know very well who I do had found their own sound already. Just think ally get negative feedback from our distributors entertained between sets. whose day job sees him working at the UNICEF office geared towards strength and stamina. not need and that’s a good point to start” he about B. Fleischmann, Lali Puna and Isan. But whenever he doesn’t. Hopefully he’s not taking It’s worth mentioning that a limited addi- in Reykjavík. The creation of yoga can be traced back as far as explains. when looking back it’s been hard work and the over the label,” Morr adds. tion CD, Music for Hairy Scary Monsters, was Yoga has taken the world by storm in recent years. 5000 years ago in India. Asked how he would characterize the Morr success could not have been expected.” released as part of the event and features 10 Made fashionable by stars such as Sting and Madonna, Today yoga is practiced as much for its physical benefits artists, Thomas says that the label has been Today, you must have a stack of demos Morr Label Nights in Iceland tracks by the artists performing so concert goers yoga classes are today offered at most gyms around the as for its original purpose of achieving inner peace. changing ever since the beginning, so the art- from artists eager to grab your attention. Do Morr Music has been connected with the Icelan- can warm up for the grand scale event. The CD world. Ghetto Yoga classes have been attracting a steady ists that they have added to their roster differ you have time to listen to them all? dic music scene for quite some time. The label is available at the 12 Tónar record shop. Jónsson says that Ghetto Yoga’s no-charge policy is attendance but anyone interested in joining can simply as well: “Just as the person behind the music, “I do, sometimes just not more than 10 re-released múm’s album Yesterday Was Dra- not the only way in which his classes differ from others. turn up to one of the scheduled times. The classes are you’re working in your microcosms and even seconds, but as I’ve said, I know what I do not matic, Today is OK in 2005 after the album had Tickets for the show at the Akureyri Intarnational The name Ghetto Yoga illustrates his philosophy. open to everyone – including children. all small changes seem to be relevant. I guess need.” been unavailable for far too many years. Since Music Festival are available at www.midi.is. “It’s a grassroots kind of thing [...] the name comes we never made a secret about where we come The Morr artwork is an important part of then, the label has signed two Icelandic bands, Tickets for the concerts at Iðnó are sold at the 12 from the fact that the classes are held in Hlemmur, being Hverfisgata 105, 2H Hlemmur, 101 Reykjavík. from and I guess some common roots won’t the label and has made its album releases easily first Benni Hemm Hemm and most recently the Tónar record shop on Skólavörðustígur 15. the ghetto of Reykjavík, and also that yoga should be as Wednesday 18:00, Saturday 13:00 harm. Usually I need to feel that, beside all the recognizable in the record shops. Designer Jan group Seabear which released its debut, The fitting in a ghetto as in the high street,” he explained.

Energy for life through forces of nature Lárus & Lárus Hahaha It is too tight – fits you right EXPECT HANG OVERS... How does the new jacket fit you Lárus

THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. ALWAYS LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. www.bluelagoon.com NICE WWW.NASA.IS 1 EATING 8 30 SHOPPING 37 Pizza King DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK Islandia Vor Hafnarstræti 18 G-Star Raw Bankastræti 10 Laugavegur 24 This small pizza place is not only cheap Laugavegur 86 The store Islandia has a modest selection but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll of postcards, Icelandic wool products, Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- 13 Buying jeans used to be a simple task. get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK Hafnarstræti cups with tacky designs, mini sculptures ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- 10 With the ever-growing selection, suc- per slice, not to mention the special of Icelandic symbols such as Vikings and dients and a health-conscious menu that 2 cessful jeans hunting can take days. The lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three puffins, Icelandic flags, books, handbags, emphasises French and Mediterranean task did not get any easier with the re- toppings of your choice and a can of wallets and even underwear sporting the Ask for a Tax Free cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the cent addition of a store from the indus- Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is Austurstræti 8 Icelandic flag. Great for some last min- excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent try powerhouse G-Star Raw. This Dutch form & save up to 15% a local favourite. The fact it’s open until 17 ute souvenirs. Look for the sign with the pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- brand features an edgy collection, au- 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t Viking helmet. fee served is of the highest quality. thentic details and innovative washings. hurt either. 43 Bank astræti Ingólfsstræti 15 2 Hornið 9 Bernhöftsbakarí 11 25 31 Underground 38 Trilogia Lækjargata Hafnarstræti 15 Bergstaðarstræti 13 37 38 Veltusund 1 Laugavegur 7 26 Hverfisgata The casual family-friendly Italian-style It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city 40 Laugav Located in a basement by Ingólfstorg, A collection of trendy designer wear corner restaurant has operated at the in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, 28 35 former pro skater, Mike Carroll’s skate- fills the space at fashion shop Trilogia, egur 44 same spot since 1979 when it became snacks and an extensive selection of the 21 board shop Underground is aptly named. including amazing designs by Alexander a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- SPOT THIS: Blue Lagoon Shop 44 16 The shop offers all the relevant skating McQueen and Chloe alongside Robert Skóla 20 out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas larly love the spelt bread in the morning, Blue Lagoon, Laugavegur 15 19 gear, be it clothing or boards, from in- Cary Williams, Erotokritos and many, and the generously stuffed calzone, the and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð 22 23 18 dustry leading brand names such as many more. Summery dresses, sweaters WWW. vörðustígur wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts to go with the afternoon coffee. The geothermal seawater spa The Blue La- healing minerals are sold at the downtown 12 27 DC, Circa and others. A wide array of and skirts for all the fashion conscious of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian goon is a world famous healing spot as the Blue Lagoon shop which stocks lotions and Klapparstígur 1 T-shirts, shoes, and other skating neces- girls out there as well as cool accessories and meat courses, all very affordable. 24 sities available. to complete the look. GRAPE water is rich with silica and sulphur, which scrubs for your face and body as well as 34 29 are extremely good for the skin. The natu- spa products and gift items. VINE.IS ral skin care products produced from the

3 Argentína 10 Bæjarins bestu 7 32 Kirsuberjatréð 39 Kolaportið News // Dining Steakhouse Tryggvagata Vesturgata 4 Tryggvagata 19 Travelling // Shopping Barónstígur 11 There’s a good reason why there’s always 4 Kirsuberjatréð is the perfect little gift A trip to the downtown indoor flea mar- True to its name, restaurant Argentína a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- 32 shop. A co-op gallery/gift shop owned ket Kolaportið down by the harbour is specialises in Argentinean steaks and less of the weather or time of day. Select- and operated by ten women artists and always a fun way to spend a Saturday af- southern decorations where dancing ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by designers. Kirsuberjatréð is the commer- ternoon. Endless stalls offering all kinds The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- 42 39 cial outlet where they sell their products. of second-hand goods, candy and even flames in the fireplace welcome ev- 5 ery guest that walks inside. The tender cades ago, it has been serving “ein með The selections ranges from clothes, bas- fermented shark and Icelandic liquorice. 31 meat, excellent wines, generous portions öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown Austurstr kets, ceramics, copper sculptures, fish If ready to spend some time thoroughly and a selection of quality cognac, whis- pedestrians since 1935, making it the 41 æti skin items, paper crafts, contemporary examining the selection you can find key, liqueurs and cigars all help make it a oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- Ingólfsstræti jewelry, felt items, and various other some great bargains. Only open on try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. Bankastræti designs. weekends. recommended place for fine dining. Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 33 4 Icelandic Fish Chips 11 Quiznos 14 33 Vinberið 40 Nakti Apinn in the city center city the in 36 Tryggvagata 8 Lækjargata 8 9 6 Laugavegur 43 Bankastræti 14 Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a A chain of sandwich outlets special- Tjarnargata This small boutique sells all kinds of Nakti Apinn, located on the second floor Þingholtsstræti 3 healthy restaurant using only organic izing in toasty baguette-style subs, but sweets. From chocolate fondue mix, to at Bankastræti 14, offers an amazing va- vegetables, quality fish products and also serving soups and salads. Choose handmade chocolates, to lollypops and riety of colourful street-clothing, includ- Bergstaðarstræti 30 no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. your toppings and variety of sauces and Frakkastígur Belgian chocolate with such flavours as ing hooded sweatshirts, T-shirts and leg- Deep-fried catch of the day served with you’ll get a fresh sandwich to suit your Óðinsgata lavender and ginger. Vinberið also sells gings designed by the owners and hand-

cafe & bar & cafe oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, taste. Ask for the lamb sub, an Icelandic Icelandic sweets, including the popular printed with different patterns, graphics a sauce made out of the fat-free milk speciality. Then put a double chocolate licorice products. A must stop for the and figures. Inside you’ll also find a good product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts chunk brownie in your take-away box sweet toothed. selection of Icelandic music, books on of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They and you’re good to go. art and design, accessories, baby clothes also offer take-away at all times. Barónsstígur and international designer wear.

DRINKING 5 Sjávarkjallarinn 12 Á næstu grösum 15 18 Tíu Dropar 21 Sirkus 24 Boston 27 Barinn 34 Laugavegur 28 41 Thorvaldsens Bazar Aðalstræti 2 (First Vegetarian) Grái Kötturinn Laugavegur 27 Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 28b Laugavegur 22 Laugavegur 28 Austurstræti 4 Laugavegur 20B Hverfisgata 16a In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- Located above the second-hand fashion Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming A fresh addition to the Laugavegur fash- Located inside a dignified wooden build- chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, Many locals claim this to be the best A small antique-style non-smoking cof- terranean, as all traditional coffee shops ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor quite popular among Reykjavík party ion scene, four separate stores under ing, Thorvaldsens Bazar is among the where the emphasis is not only on ocean vegetarian restaurant in town offering a fee house in a Hverfisgata basement, should be, and this place makes you feel popular among musicians and the cre- and nice sofas in the lounge room up- scenesters. Its three floors and equally one roof, second-hand clothing and ac- oldest shops in Reykjavík, opening in delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- legendary for its early opening hours, warm, both with its atmosphere and the ative crowd who get along well although stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the numerous bars get quite crowded dur- cessories stores Elvis and Rokk og rósir, 1901 and run by the women’s charity ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask amazing breakfast and strong coffee generosity of the coffee refills. the breathing space can be limited on Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- ing weekends where a mix of dancing and CD experts Smekkleysa, all staples of organization the Thorvaldsen Society. is to order the exotic menu, a range of for the daily special or try the selection that will easily wake you up in the morn- weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- downstairs and chatting upstairs make the Laugavegur shopping experience. In Selling souvenirs, handicrafts, woollen courses carefully selected by the chef, of three different courses. The Indian ing. We especially recommend The Truck, the greatest party possible every week- ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy for a good night out. Though mostly a addition, the new store, Pop, supplying underclothes and sweaters as well as Ice- and share it with your dining partners. theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the American style breakfast consisting of end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts café as well as a laid-back tavern where DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs neat stuff for the home. The collective landic jewellery, the friendly saleswomen sugar free banana cake just one of the eggs, bacon, pancakes, fried potatoes, on weeknights. the music is good but never intrusive. and is always a fun party venue. will offer unique clothing and ornaments work as volunteers and all profits are do- highly tempting desserts. tomatoes, syrup and toast. The bagels and supply the score to your life. nated to charity work. are also excellent.

6 Indian Mango 13 Nonnabiti 16 Kaffi Hljómalind 19 Súfistinn 22 Vegamót 25 Café Cultura 28 Q-Bar 35 Gullkúnst Helgu 42 Fríða Frænka Frakkarstígur 12 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 21 Laugavegur 18 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Ingólfsstræti 3 Laugavegur 13 Vesturgata 3 Located on a quiet Laugavegur side Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, This organic, free-trade café prides itself On the top floor of the giant bookstore Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing Located inside the Intercultural Cen- A spacious gay/straight friendly bar, the This spacious and classy store sells jew- This small boutique is a jam-packed street, Indian Mango has infused the Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, on being a non-profit company and a Mál og Menning, you’ll find the casual lunch menu, they serve brunch during tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a newly renovated Q-Bar is a welcome ad- ellery made from lava and other stone. treasure chest overflowing with antique Laugavegur 23 Reykjavík restaurant scene with incred- is one of the more popular junk food dedicated venue for the hardcore and booklover coffee house Súfistinn. What the weekends, and the kitchen is open cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of dition to the nightlife downtown. In styl- Gullkunst Helgu, which is housed in the furniture and items to perk up your ible delicacies originating in the rich food places around, offering a large selection cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- we love about this place is the selection until 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes events and various theme nights like ish and comfortable surroundings, with 1924 built shop on Laugevegur 13, has apartment. In every corner of the shop, traditions from the Goa region in India, of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious of books and magazines you can take on, and you can check the end results in Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion a lounge-like atmosphere, a good vibe been selling unique jewellery such as you’ll find some unique items, including honed to perfection at the Four Seasons, es and burgers with a nice dash of the soups and vegetarian dishes as well as from the store and read while enjoying photos published the day after on their parties. The menu features all sorts of and plenty of seats, the place never gets necklaces, bracelets and watches for 15 candle holders, lamps, pillows, gorgeous during the owner’s period as head chef. unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the a breakfast, light lunch or afternoon website www.vegamot.is. If you like Oli- international dishes like Thai soup, Span- uncomfortably crowded nor too noisy years. 60’s sofas, tables, vases and a selection A local favourite, Indian Mango is known night craving there’s no need to worry, place to visit for a reasonably priced coffee. Browse the shelves and grab a ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with for conversation. of clothes and vintage jewellery. both for the quality of the food as well Nonni is open longer than most other healthy lunch. table. bistro regulars such as sandwiches and as the service. places. salads.

7 Sægreifinn 14 Austurlanda- 17 Segafredo 20 Kaffibarinn 23 Oliver 26 Prikið 29 Dillon 36 Börn Náttúrunnar 43 Iða Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 20a Bankastræti 12 Laugavegur 30 Skólavörðustígur 17a Lækjargata 2a Located right next to the Reykjavík har- Hverfisgata 64A The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- If you like trendy party-types who dance This two-floor café/pub has been a part The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The children’s toy store Börn Náttúrun- The spacious Iða bookstore is a great bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- Although a little pricey for a take-away, the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown like crazy to a lively mix of music where of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. tures moderately priced drinks, a dark nar, located in a Skólavörðustígur base- source for all kinds of reading material of- rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in charging around 1600 ISK for a main facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of glamour is all that counts on the spa- With a large and fairly cheap bistro and cosy mood and some pretty good ment, sells clothes and toys made only of fering an excellent range of books, travel the country. The menu features various course, the food is well worth that extra lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- cious dance floor, the stylish Óliver is menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university music (especially when local favourite organic products as well as books about guides, magazines, post-cards and great fish dishes and a rich portion of the best spending once in a while. Serving typi- espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet the nightclub for you. For all the others students with their laptops and elderly DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The childcare and parenthood. Here you can gift items. The first-class service will help lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with who hate that kind of a party, the good devoted regulars during the day while tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang buy creative wooden playthings and you search for what you need. On the ters to groups upstairs where the room chest for those with a penchant for a way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live air-conditioning, fine food and excellent the younger clientele fills up the space out there on school nights are joined by woollen products for the young ones second floor you’ll find restaurants serv- looks more like a cabin than a diner. The spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the brunch served during the day makes during the evening and especially at legions of parka-clad students during carefully selected by the parents who ing sushi, soups and sandwiches. good food and welcoming service make side for those who choose to dine in. party doesn’t start winding down until Óliver a recommended choice for mid- weekends when the music is mostly weekends, creating a party atmosphere own the shop. this place a must-try. early morning. priced meals. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in. FESTIVAL OF THE SEA_JUNE 2-3_2007_FULL SCHEDULE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_INTERVIEW/MUSIC_B11

Matís: How does fish change in storage? the 32 year old veteran ship Týr. Faxagarður- Reykjavik Harbour. SATURDAY, JUNE 2 Experts teach passers-by to recognise tell tale signs of fish going off » 13:00-16:00 The DAS lottery exhibits a state of the art Lexus » 10:00 Ships’ foghorns signal the opening of the Festival of the Sea after extended periods of storage and offers tips for picking and GS300 and a Harley Davidson V-Rod motorcycle. The central pier “It doesn’t matter who » 10:00-16:00 Bizarre sea creatures storing the right cuts. (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour. would have written this The Icelandic Marine Research Institute displays a collection of Do you know that smell? » 13:00, 14:00, 15:00 Family sightseeing cruise: strange sea dwellers. The central pier (Miðbakki), Reykjavik Harbor. A fun game for people of all ages. Smell from the bottles and guess A great chance to see the city from a totally different perspective. song, when I hear it I » 09:00-17:00 Whale Watching what was in each one. Admittance is free. The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour. Special offers on whale watching tours – 3.000 kr for adults, 1.500 Micro-organisms in fish » 13:00 The search and rescue organisation Ársæll shows how to can’t imagine anything kr for children aged 7-15 and no charge for children under 6. Passers-by are given the chance to examine micro organisms in quickly respond to a drowning person in the ocean. The central pier else than a global success. Departures are at 9.00, 13.00 and 17.00. Each tour takes 2,5 – 3 petrie dishes. (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour. hours. Ægisgarður-Reykjavik Harbor » 13:00 The search and rescue organisation, Ársæll, displays jeeps » 13:00 – 16:00 Food and culture in the tent at the central pier Anything less would just » 10:00–16:00 Open house at the Reykjavik sailing society Brokey. and other rescue equipment. The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Reykjavik Whale watching introduces its operations and hosts an art Ingólfsgarður-Reykjavik Harbor Harbor competition for children. be weird and wrong.” » 11:00-18:00 Photography exhibition presented by Faxaflói Har- » 13:00-16:00 The DAS lottery exhibits a state of the art Lexus Gourmet fish: The store Fiskisaga sells samples of delicious fish based bors. GS300 and a Harley Davidson V-Rod motorcycle. courses. » 11:00-17:00 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Free admission and fun The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbor The Icelandic Diving society sells samples of grilled shellfish and program for the whole family. Grandagarður 8 » 14:00 Sailor’s Song Festival other delicatessen. example with recording Hold me Closer. Then » 11:00-17:00 Ferry trips to Viðey on special offer. 1.100 kr for The Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhúsið Akureyri University displays images of under water life in Eyjafjörður we have Gísli Galdur, he’s of course amazing, adults and 600 kr for children (waffles and hot cocoa included). » 15:00 The best sea faring ditty chosen and performed - also live Edda útgáfa: Art competition. The 20 prettiest fish pictures earn the and everyone knows that. The ferry leaves at 12:00 noon from the old pier, where there is on Rás 2 radio. The Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhúsið artists a book each as prizes. Árni: And Tobbi is just like a computer with also a bus service to Sundahöfn harbor on an hourly basis. Further » 16:00 Speedboat racing The zoo and family park: have you ever petted a crab? Live sea a soul. information available at www.videy.com Just off the coast from Sæbraut creatures you can examine and touch under the guidance of trained Biggi: Today we think of all these guys as part » 11:00 Pier fishing competition at the pier by Ægisgarður. All » 16:00 Message in a bottle. Launch bottled messages from a boat. staff. of Motion Boys. competitors get a free movie ticket and a certificate acknowledging Departure from the central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbor Matís: How does fish change in storage? Your first concert was cut short due to participation. » 18:00 Fishfeast! Information about participating restaurants and Experts teach passers by to recognise tell tale signs of fish going off technical problems (see review, page 20), it » 11:30 Sightseeing cruise to Akranes their menus can be found below, on the program flyer and at www. after extended periods of storage and offers tips for picking and must have been a great disappointment? The Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue’s schoolship, hatidhafsins.is storing the right cuts. Biggi: It was just unbelievable really, but despite Sæbjörg sails from the central pier (Miðbakki) of Reykjavik Harbor Do you know that smell? this fuckup we all had a great time. to Akranes - waffles and coffee will be served on board. Admission A fun game for people of all ages. Smell from the bottles and guess Árni: Afterwards, I feel that the show ended is free but seating is limited. The ship will sail back at approximately SUNDAY, JUNE 3 what was in each one. just the way it should have ended. The audi- 14:30. The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbor » 10:00 Memorial ceremony for fallen sailors. Micro-organisms in fish ence got a preview of Motion Boys and was » 12:00 Sailing competition Cannon fire signals the beginning of Fossvogskapella, Fossvogskirkjugarður (Fossvogs cemetery). Passers-by are given the chance to examine micro organisms in generally positive towards the music. No one this event! The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbor » 10:00-16:00 Bizarre sea creatures – The Icelandic Marine Re- petrie dishes. got angry and the incident kind of brought » 12:00-17:00 Fun and games (mini amusement park) The central search Institute displays a collection of strange sea dwellers. The » 13:00 The search and rescue organisation Ársæll displays jeeps The Motion Boys Fear For Their Success us closer together. I at least don’t have any pier. (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbor central pier (Miðbakki), Reykjavik Harbour and other rescue equipment as well as teaching resuscitation tech- negative feelings about this show. All I wanted » 12:30 The festival kicks off in Akranes » 09:00-17:00 Whale Watching niques. The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour was to get goose bumps and I did. I also find » 13:00 – 16:00 The Icelandic coast guard exhibits its pride and joy, Special offers on whale watching tours – 3.000 kr for adults, 1.500 » 13:00-16:00 The mountain rescue contingent of the search and Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Gulli it remarkable that four bands, with no record the 32 year old veteran ship Týr. Faxagarður- Reykjavik Harbor kr for children aged 7-15 and no charge for children under 6. Depar- rescue organisation Ársæll teaches kids the basics of safe descent deals and no album releases, were able to stuff » 13:00 – 16:00 Food and culture in the tent at the central pier tures are at 9.00, 13.00 and 17.00. Each tour takes 2,5 – 3 hours. » 14:00-15:00 Opening ceremony Traditional festivities on Sailor’s Iðnó. The band Hjaltalín was great that night Message in a bottle: Send a bottled message. At 16:00 a ship will Ægisgarður-Reykjavik Harbour. Day with various adresses and seamen honoured. It seems like everyone is talking about the perky major hit. At least I did. Biggi: And it worked, much beyond our hopes and so was Sprengjuhöllin. take all the bottles out to sea and release them. » 10:00-18:00 Photography exhibition presented by Faxaflói Har- The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour duo the Motion Boys at the moment. A band Árni: We were afraid that if we would release at that moment. The songs have been played Biggi: And FM Belfast was crazy. Reykjavik Whale watching introduces its operations and hosts an art bours. » 15:00 Rowing competition of two, Birgir Ísleifur, (former member of Byltan this song, we would never make another a lot on the radio stations, and they seem to You must be planning another concert competition for children. » 11:00-17:00 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Free admission and fun The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour and Motherfuckers in the House) and Árni +1 one. be appealing to both the pop and rock genre. soon. I heard you are scheduled to open Gourmet fish: The store Fiskisaga sells samples of delicious fish program for the whole family. Grandagarður 8 » 15:00 Aerobatic displays in the skies over Reykjavik Harbour. (from FM Belfast and Hairdoctor), the Motion And become a one-hit wonder? It’s unbelievable really, as there are no guitars for The Rapture at NASA on June 26. based courses. » 11:00-17:00 Ferry trips to Viðey on special offer. 1.100 kr for » 15:00 Felix and Jói entertain the young ones Boys, although without a record deal and only Árni: Exactly. In my view, it was really important in these songs! I don’t know how to play the Árni: Yeah we are. That’s gonna be nice. The Icelandic Diving society sells samples of grilled shellfish and adults and 600 kr for children (waffles and hot cocoa included). The The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour two songs released, have become the hype of to write numerous other songs before releasing guitar and Árni only knows three chords. My Biggi: The Rapture is a fun band. I’m sure they other delicatessen. ferry leaves at 12:00 noon from the old pier, where there is also a » 16:00 The coast guard’s helicopter demonstrates maritime rescue the summer. It doesn’t hurt that the band’s Hold me Closer, and actually our first single opinion is that if Hold me Closer won’t be an will be much more tight on stage than we will, Akureyri University displays images of under water life in Ey- bus service to Sundahöfn Harbour on an hourly basis. Further infor- operations with the search and rescue organisation Ársæll. live line-up features Mínus drummer Bjössi, released was Waiting to Happen. international hit, then I know absolutely nothing but I’m convinced that we will touch people’s jafjörður. mation available at www.videy.com The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour Trabant members Viddi and Gísli Galdur, and Biggi: I also felt bad about that song. I felt about music. It doesn’t matter who would have hearts in a greater way than they are going to. Edda útgáfa: Art competition. The 20 prettiest fish pictures earn the » 11:00 Memorial service for fallen fishermen in the Reykjavik » 16:00 Award ceremony for the rowing competition. The central Tobbi, a former member of Jeff Who?. Local as if I was in the eighth grade all over again, written this song, when I hear it I can’t imagine Maybe the guys in The Rapture will even be a artists a book each as prizes. Cathedral. Flowers placed on the grave of the unknown sailor. pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour radio station DJs can’t seem to get enough hanging around in the Frostaskjól youth centre anything else than a global success. Anything little weepy when they go on stage. But seri- The zoo and family park: have you ever petted a crab? Live sea » 12:00-17:00 Fun and games (mini amusement park). » 18:00 Fishfeast! Further Information about participating restau- of their high-end electro-pop singles and the among the tenth grade kids. When in the eighth less would just be weird and wrong. ously, I’m sure it will be a great gig. creatures you can examine and touch under the guidance of trained The central pier (Miðbakki) Reykjavík Harbour. rants and their menus can be found below, on the program flyer and danceable tunes have scored big with the local grade you have this feeling towards the older But you are planning a full-length album Árni: It will be good to get the chance to play staff. » 13:00 – 16:00 The Icelandic coast guard exhibits its pride and joy, at www.hatidhafsins.is. party crowd. Grapevine sat down with Biggi kids, which is kind of a mix of fear and respect. sometime in the near future, right? in front of a large crowd and know that you can and Árni at Prikið to learn a little more about You respected them but at the same time your Árni: Yes, we have the next bullet ready. Now deliver the music well. Our live band features their collaboration. stomach was aching. I had the same feeling we just need to fire the gun. experienced musicians who’ve played NASA about Waiting to Happen. I really don’t know Biggi: That song is crazy! Its called Steal Your multiple times over so it’s a great opportunity. How did it all start? how to describe it. Love. Remember that name! So what’s the plan for the summer? Árni: We started working together about a year Árni: You felt as if you were a part of something Árni: It’s sort of a mix between Hold me Closer Biggi: To play as many concerts as we can. We ago. Biggi asked me to help arrange a song much bigger than yourself. and Waiting to Happen. are also booked to play at the Iceland Airwaves he was writing for Sigtið [an Icelandic comedy Biggi: Exactly. Biggi: With a touch of Michael Jackson. festival in October. show]. He came to my studio and we wrote You managed to face your fears and release Your live line-up is somewhat impressive. Árni: In addition to that, we want to travel one song just for the fun of it. That’s basically a promo CD, featuring the two aforemen- And even before your first live gig, people abroad and play our music for a broader audi- how it all started. tioned songs. The Grapevine critic, Sindri were calling Motion Boys a supergroup. ence. Biggi: That song is called Silhouette. No one Eldon, reviewed the single and said that Árni: Everyone is famous in Iceland so it’s really Biggi: And then there is of course the forth- has heard it except us two. After writing that the summer of 2007 belonged solely to easy to mix together a supergroup. We share a coming album. We are planning to record as song we saw that our collaboration was working you, no matter if you would ever release studio with Trabant so it just happened naturally many songs as we can this summer and nail so we continued writing and Hold Me Closer anything else. and we didn’t run around asking for the phone the project down and be ready with an album to Your Heart was born, but after writing that Árni: Yes, we finally released the CD, but we number of Bjössi in Mínus, he actually asked us next fall. song we felt kind of bad. weren’t trying to promote it in any way though. if he could join in. He got down on his knees Why so? We just wanted to try and see what would and cried out in the rain. You can check out their songs at www.myspace. Biggi: Because we knew the song would be a happen. Biggi: Viddi has been an immensely big help, for com/motionboys

A must do FESTIVAL OF THE SEA FISHFEAST for the visitor...

The first Sunday in June is traditionally called the family sailing tours, and display of search and rescue Do not miss the Fishfeast! During the week- est restaurants partaking however, the com- Sailor’s Day, celebrating the importance of the sea operations at sea. Several seafood restaurants located end’s Festival of the Sea celebrations some of bination of fresh ingredients and delicate the and the men who attend it for the survival of this around the harbour will have their specialties or offer the finest restaurants in downtown Reykjavik preparation means that satisfaction is all but SetTlement nation. It is the only day of the year when every during the weekend. will offer hungry visitors special fish-based guaranteed. centre Icelandic ship is in harbor and every sailor has the menus at slightly reduced prices. Icelanders IN BORGARNES day off. In Reykajvík, this special holiday has been Participating restaurants are: are particularly proud of their fresh fish and Participating restaurants are: stretched out to a two day Festival of the Sea. The Iceland Fish and Chips, Tryggvagötu 8; Sjávarbarinn, for two days you have the chance to taste Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15; Við Tjörnina, Tem- celebrations usually involve activities surrounding Grandagarður 9; Gróubúð, Grandagarði 1; The Duke what local master chefs can do with this plarasundi 3; DOMO, Þingholtsstræti 5; Fjal- traditional sailor stuff, such as rowing competitions, of the Sea and the Sushi Factory, by Verbúð. special ingredient. The menus are varied but akötturinn, Aðalstræti 16; Salt Restaurant, Two unique exihbitions: what they all have in common is that they Pósthússtræti 2; Þrír Frakkar, Baldursgata The Settlement of Iceland each showcase a variety of different fish and 14; Einar Ben, Veltusundi 1; Apótekið, Aus- and preparation styles, from lobster tempura to turstræti 16; Tveir fiskar, Geirsgata 9; Vín og Egils saga butter fried monkfish. skel, Laugavegi 55b. Most of the participating restaurants Open daily from 10 am to 7 pm are chosen for their expertise and thus tend The Fishfeast is sponsored by: Ögurvík, HB RESTAURANT to be in the upper half of the price range - Grandi, Brim hf and Iceland Seafood inter- Open from 10 am to 9:30 pm you will be paying 4000 to 5000 kr. for a national. Tel: +354 437 1600 complete meal. With some of the city’s fin- www.landnamssetur.is B12_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_REVIEWS/FOOD RVK_GV_INFO_BEVERAGE_B13

GREEN GREEN GREEN

Grænn kostur Maður lifandi First Vegetarian Whales& Skólavörðustigur 8b, 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 552 2028 Borgartún 24, 104 Reykjavík, tel.: 585 8700 Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 552 8410 Puffin Island Grænn Kostur, or “The Green Choice,” is a small vegan/vege- Being one of only a handful of strictly organic restaurants in The restaurant Á næstu grösum, located on the corner of Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable 3-hour tarian restaurant in downtown Reykjavík. Seating around 30-40 town, Maður Lifandi (which translates to “Man Alive!”) has Laugavegur and Klapparstígur, is popular with locals who trip into the world of whales and sea birds. people, Grænn Kostur is tucked away on Skólavörðustígur off a practical philosophy: show sceptics that organic food is not want healthy and nutritious meals served fast and reasonably Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from Laugavegur. intimidating. The store/cafeteria offers books on vegetarian priced. This cosy eatery boasts an easygoing atmosphere and the city centre. Grænn Kostur has been serving healthy organic vegan and eating, cooking classes, vitamins, organic ingredients (including a nice selection of vegan and vegetarian meals cooked from vegetarian food for ten years. Their current menu consists of hummus, curries and sauces made in-store) and online recipes. quality ingredients without sugar, yeast or manufactured A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the veggie burgers, pizza, spinach pie, soups and various salads. Proprietor Helga Mogensen knows that people can be hesitant food additives like MSG. Organic vegetables are also used third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Puffin season Staying true to their philosophy of veganism and healthy eating, when it comes to organic cuisine, and that is why she has made whenever possible. 60170 • fít Grænn Kostur does not use dairy products, white flour, sugar, Maður Lifandi an open learning environment for all budding The small dining room was almost fully seated when we • April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 or visit yeast or eggs in their dishes. However, tangy yogurt dip and health-food nuts. arrived but my dining partner and I were able to get a table by MIXA goat cheese crumbs are offered for those not on a strict vegan Maður Lifandi has a cafeteria feel, with a hipper dining area the window, overlooking Laugavegur. After bringing us fresh 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 555 3565 www.elding.is diet. downstairs. A fresh salad bar teases you at the beginning of orange juice and organic soda for drinks, our friendly waitress 17:00 17:00 17:00 The bright and airy restaurant was almost empty when my the line just before the posted menus appear. Unfortunately, invited us to the buffet. At Á næstu grösum there is no actual Kaldi: The Coolest Beer friend and I stopped by for a late lunch one Saturday afternoon. the English menu obviously lacks the descriptions that the Ice- menu and it is sort of a self-service dining-spot featuring an The attentive staff gave us servings of all of the day’s offerings. landic menus have, and the smoothie menu is entirely absent impressive buffet and a waiter armed with a large spoon who The day’s special, Indian casserole served with rice and salad, for English speakers. The atmosphere in Maður is clean, with will stuff your plate with anything you find appetizing. in Iceland was a nice introduction to the food of Grænn Kostur. Still on hardwood floors and a nice distance between tables, which is The today’s specials constantly change, so the many regulars Elding Whale Watching, Reykjavík harbour the Indian theme, the flavourful Indian pie was made from rice comforting given the eventual crowd of lunching down-towners. will always find some new and exciting dishes written on the Tel: (+354) 555 3565, Fax: (+354) 554 7420 and vegetables and was as much a hit with my carnivorous To the side of the main ordering area is a refrigerated selection blackboard above the counter. The buffet itself, which is divided It seems that the introduction of an Icelandic microbrewery has been long [email protected], www.elding.is companion than with any vegetarian diner. of healthy juices, store made sauces and popular to-go orders into diverse hot and cold dishes, always features numerous overdue: it was nearly twenty years ago that the ban on beer was lifted, We were also offered Spinach pie and Spinach Lasagne. (Helga told me that the all of the to-go orders are customer wholesome courses such as soups, lasagne, veggie-stews, and since then big-brand beers have dominated the nation’s shelves. As The Spinach pie was satisfactory but apparently the Spinach favourites). pea patties, quiches and side servings as fresh salads, rice and Iceland’s first (and only) microbrewery, Kaldi was founded as an alternative Lasagne needs no introduction. The understandably extremely For lunch, I ordered the Chicken Burrito with a Salad (900 sauces. It’s worth mentioning that Fridays and Saturdays are to the preservative, sugar, and chemical-heavy beers that are generally sold popular dish is made with spelt lasagne sheets and delicious kr), which came wrapped in a whole-wheat tortilla with just dedicated to Indian cuisine, a particularly popular weekend in the state alcohol store and in bars. organic fresh spinach but at least on this occasion was served the right level of flakiness. Inside was a unique combination of feast. The idea for Kaldi came after Agnes Sigurðardóttir and Ólafur Ólafsson with a melon salad – not the most obvious combination. curried chicken, cooked spinach, tomato, and mustard seeds. I opted for a mixed plate and sampled a portion of ve- (Kaldi is a husband and wife operation) watched an engaging segment We tried a vegetarian version of Tom Yum Thai soup made The accompanying salsa, which was tangy, contended a little getables in Thai curry, aubergine terrine, delicious lasagne, on the news about the popularity of microbrews in Denmark. After much from chilli, garlic, vegetables and tofu. The spicy soup was cold bit with the sweetness of the spinach, and I found that leaving well-flavoured fried chickpea patties with spicy tomato sauce inquiry, they saw the opportunity to buy equipment and grains from the before we got to it, but was delicious all the same. At 700 ISK this combination out of the equation was the better decision. and rice, potato salad as well as tomato-fruit salad and fresh Czech Republic. Along with the deal came expert Czech brewmaster David the freshly made soup comes with bread and hummus. Again, The burrito’s size was relatively modest, which was actually a vegetables on the side. Although my plate was completely Masa. They soon brought the brewery to their hometown of Árskógssandur, while all three aspects of this dish – the soup, the bread and refreshing break from the gutbusters I am used to as a Southern stuffed, I couldn’t resist some freshly baked bread with hum- a small coastal town northwest of Akureyri, where the opportunity for work the hummus were delicious – I’m not too sure about combining Californian. My friend decided on the special, which is a Carib- mus, but the choices of chutney, butter and extra virgin olive was not exactly abundant. them. bean plate (1,200 kr) with black beans, couscous, guacamole, oil are also offered as toppings, and you can have as much as While it would be cheaper for the brewery to add preservatives found The vegetable burger topped with crunchy sunflowers, and the less recognizable yucca and squash. The combination you can eat. in larger beers like Viking or Thule, the founders of Kaldi opted for qual- pepitas and sesame seeds accompanied by a salad of crisp let- was great, the ingredients fresh, and the simple side salad nicely After mixing all the tasty delights there was no room for ity: “We like this type of beer, and that’s why we chose to brew it,” says tuce and baby spinach leaves, peas, cucumber, onion, tomato, complemented the plate. Simplicity was the key here. anything else than a cup of coffee, which was a shame as the Ólafsson. Due to the lack of additives, the beer has a shelf life of only 3 bell peppers and artichokes drizzled in yogurt sauce was the Before we left, Helga urged me to dump my scepticism cakes at Á næstu grösum are ’world-famous’ (at least among months (Beers with preservatives have a one-year shelf-life). Still, Ólafsson standout dish. for gluten-free knock-offs and finally convinced me to try the regular clientele). I’ve tried the sugar free banana cake believes that the popularity of the beer will grow as people become more Grænn Kostur also serves a variety of cakes, including raw the Hrákaka (or ‘raw cake’), a spicy nut and berry cake made before and can easily recommend it to future visitors. health-conscious. fruit and nut cake. without wheat or spelt (Maður lifandi accommodates most Here, dining out can be both quick and enjoyable and the While generally available at the Vínbúð, Kaldi can only be found in two Averaging out at around 1000 ISK, whether you’re a dietary restrictions). The cake came with cream and fresh fruit take-away offered can become useful as well, whether you bars in Reykjavik and a few in Akureyri. Due to the small size of the brewery, vegetarian or not you’re bound to enjoy a light, healthy and and offered something unique and unexpectedly good to the need to grab a meal or a yummy piece of cake to take home Ólafsson does not expect that many bars will be picking up the brew in the inexpensive meal at Grænn Kostur. typical dessert menu. for a late-night snack. near future.

Reviewed by Zoë Robert Reviewed by Chandler Fredrick Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Text by Chandler Fredrick B14_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 07_2007_EXHIBITION/DESIGN_B15

Services 11-18. www.ahus.is Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses come from a Nordic country, foreign Useful Numbers Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Icelandic Travel Market are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 citizens have to have had an unre- Emergency number: 112 09-16. Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, in churches all around the capital. stricted residence permit in Iceland for Police: 569 9000 www.kleif.is Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja at least seven years in order to get an Medical help: 1770 Getting Around Information on day tours, accommo- every last Saturday each month, start- Icelandic citizenship although some Dental emergency: 575 0505 Public transport dations, car rental and everything else ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic exceptions exist to that general rule. AA: 551 2010 The only public transport system in you need to know when travelling in Church also has masses in English and Applications are at the Ministry of Information: 118 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland. Polish. Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Telegrams: 146 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Iceland Visitor Other religious movements in Reykja- Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Tax Free Refund 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, vík are for example: www.domsmalaraduneyti.is Iceland Refund, dren. Complete route map at: www. www.icelandvisitor.com The Muslim Association of Iceland, Unemployment benefits: Director- Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 A travel agency offering travelling Ármúli 38 ate of Labour, Public Employment www.icelandrefund.com Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on package trips and custom-made tours Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Laundry Service weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- as well as car rental, day tours and Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 www.vinnumalastofnun.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, ends accommodations for visitors. The Church of Evangelism, Icelandic social security number Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Rent a bike Tourist Information Centre Hlíðasmári 9 (kennitala): National Register, Bor- Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net www.visitreykjavik.is Víghólastígur 21 www.hagstofa.is Post Office HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Offers information for tourists as well Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Driver’s license: Those who have a Post offices are located around the Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is as providing internet access, booking Fríkirkjuvegur 5 foreign license don’t need an Icelandic city as well as in the countryside. Tourist Information Centre, service, a phone centre, money ex- Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 one for the first six months. After that The downtown post office is at Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, change service, tax refund and selling Roman Catholic Church, time you have one month to apply for Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and www.visitreykjavik.is the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Hávallagata 14 an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- info on opening hours visit www. Taxi vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- tions are at police stations. posturinn.is. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, busses, various museums, Reykjavík Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, Stamps are also sold in bookstores, Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 swimming pools, The Family Park and Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is gas stations, some grocery stores and BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Seventh-Day Adventists, Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, tourist shops. For disabled travellers the National and University Library. Suðurhlíð 36 Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. Embassies and Consulates Reykjavík Group Travel Service, The Icelandic Tourist Board Zen Buddhism in Iceland, felagsthjonustan.is in Iceland Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Reykjavíkurvegur 31 1 2 United States, Laufásvegur 21, randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- www.visiticeland.com Independent Church, Facts on Iceland Tel: 562 9100 el_service/ All information needed before travel- Háteigsvegur 101 Iceland is a constitutional repub- United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- ling in Iceland. The Russian Orthodox Church in lic with slightly more than 300,000 Tel: 550 5100 vík, can be found at tourist offices. Goethe Institute Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the Russia, Garðastræti 33, Car rentals Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 country’s capital since 1786 and today Tel: 551 5156 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, www.goethe.de/island Trade Unions almost two-thirds of the population China, Víðimelur 29, Tel: 554 6040 A cultural institute that offers movie The Icelandic Federation of Labour, live in the greater capital area. Tel: 552 6751 ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 screenings, lectures and German Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is The 17th of June 1944 Iceland For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 language courses. The Federation of State and Mu- became an independent republic. Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Nordic House nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, That day is the national holiday and is sions/icelandic-missions/ A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is celebrated all around the country. Internet Access Tel: 587 5544 www.nordice.is The Association of Academics, Bor- Alþingi, the national parliament, Most coffeehouses have wireless Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, The Nordic cultural centre organises gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is is the oldest assembly in the world, Internet access. Tel: 565 3800 various cultural events, conferences Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, established at Þingvellir in 930 but Computers with Internet connections Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, and exhibitions. www.efling.is restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- are available at: Tel: 577 6050 All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also The Commercial Workers’ Union, liament is comprised of 63 members, Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600 offer brochures, maps and information Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is who are elected by popular vote every BSÍ Bus Terminal, Airlines for travellers. Union of Public Servants, Grettis- four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is years of age have the legal right to Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Useful Information Useful Websites vote. The Reykjavík City Library, Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, Where to learn Icelandic as a www.visitreykjavik.is (The official Parliamentary elections were last Tryggvagata 15 www.eyjaflug.is foreign language tourist website of Reykjavík) held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of The National and University Li- Bus Terminal Icelandic on the Internet, www.gayice.is (Information about votes going to the Independence brary, Arngrímsgata 3 BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, www.vefskoli.is the gay scene in Iceland) Party. The Social Democratic Alliance 4 Tourist Information Centre, Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Mímir Continuing Education, www.fjolmenningarsetur.is got 31 percent, the Progressive Party Aðalstræti 2 Samferda.net Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is (The Multicultural Centre) 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, www.hostel.is percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- Opening hours traveller. You log on to the website Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 (Hostel International in Iceland) cent. The Independence Party and the Bars and clubs: According to regula- www.samferda.net, choose your Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, www.vinnumalastofnun.is Progressive Party formed a coalition Icelandic Contemporary Design tions bars may be open until 01:00 on destination and hopefully find a travel Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is (Public employment services) and together lead the government. weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. buddy to share the cost. The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) Iceland has 12 ministers with the Entitled Magma, this exhibition solely focuses on new in black and white, designed by Katrín Pétursdóttir Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) prime minister and head of govern- innovations in Icelandic contemporary design. Magma Young and Michael Young. closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Cultural Centres and Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is www.simaskra.is ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is is currently on display at Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum. 2) Mundi Design presents a spaceman sweater knitted and Smáralind as well as most super- Tourist Offices Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, (Icelandic telephone directory) also chairman of the Independence The exhibition features a range of pieces including: from Icelandic wool and a warm winter jacket. markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Where to get … Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur street wear and classy clothing, furniture and interior 3) Trendy and comfortable street wear designed by opening hours. The Intercultural Centre throws oc- www.ir.is Work and residence permit: The Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in decorations as well as lighting, textile design, jewellery, Nikita Clothing. Swimming pools: weekdays casional cultural events and confer- The University of Iceland – Depart- Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð office since 1996. He is the Chief of watches, snowboard prints and helmets, graffiti and 4) A unique Sequinwaterfall designed by architect The- 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 ences but its main purpose is to be an ment of Continuing Education, 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. State although his duties are mostly various technical innovations. Viewers are able to exam- resa Himmer decorates the cafeteria at Kjarvalsstaðir. although some may be open an hour information and counselling centre Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Insurance and benefits: The State ceremonial. ine works by approximately sixty of Iceland’s designers longer. and serve as an advocate for the rights www.endurmenntun.is Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Time Zone: GMT 0 who present their diverse ideas and experimental use The exhibition is open until August 26. The State owned ÁTVR liquor of immigrants in Iceland. Religious movements 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). 3 of materials in numerous interesting creations. Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata, stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 The national church in Iceland is the Icelandic citizenship: Unless you International Dialling Code: +354 1) The Modern tree-shaped clothing hangers, available 105 Reykjavík, www.artmuseum.is.

automatos What´s on? www.getrvk.com Olaf Otto Becker · Páll Stefánsson · RAX Step into The exhibition and museum shop are open daily 10–17 the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland 1. June – 9. September 2007 Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. oldest such site found in Iceland. Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: &+TG:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%,T'%%,T;:6IJG:$:CK>GDCB:CI G:N@?6KÏ@TC:T>HHJ:%,T'%%,T;:6IJG:$:CK>GDCB:CIT&,

Such binary oppositions as “culture vs. nature” can surely make vironmental misreading, which resulted in massive economic The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers’ Survey speculative life easier. However, it should be enough to take a losses. Fertilisers and pesticides have contributed to stagger- 6hXVhZhd[hVkV\ZYZ[dgZhiVi^dc^c glance ‘out there’ to realise how the two domains are far from ing increases in production – that is undeniable. However, it i]Z6bVodc!I]VâVcYVcYCZeVa being separated by clear-cut boundaries. They blur into each has been at the expense of public health and burdens on the GREEN other and interweave in a problematic unity. health-care systems. ]VkZYdXjbZciZY!i]ZgZXVcWZcd The radical change in our diet is rapidly leading to similar Humanising Nature outcomes. Growing consumption of meat and proteins may Z[[ZXi^kZViiZbeiViZck^gdcbZciVa A disastrous drought struck the African State of Zimbabwe in seem to be the most obvious choice for our famous “eco- egZhZgkVi^dc^[î^hcdiegZXZYZYWn 1992, decimating the crops and prostrating the entire country. nomic man”: richer foods at ever-lowering prices. The widely I]ZCVijgZ Did the international community’s sympathy go to the starving acknowledged epidemic of obesity that has spread across the Vc^cXgZVhZ^chdX^ValZa[VgZVcY Zimbabwean population? Absolutely not. It was with twenty Euro-American world over the last decade, however, might elephants under threat to be shot down in order to have the suggest that the “economic man” is mistaken in some of his ZfjVaîn# meat distributed among the most desperate peasants. calculations. Win incredibly warm Nature can be nurtured, we said in the beginning. Appar- Are Icelanders ready to trade their fisheries – the source ently it can also be humanised. We have human beings objecti- of the country’s wealth over the last century – for a model of fied and pushed outside the borders of human solidarity and growth based on heavy industry? It does not have to be the Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli Photo by Gulli $8jaijgZ9jVaîn elephants that are welcomed into our cultural world, becom- case, but beware: modifying the course of too many glacial ing a matter of concern in international summits and direct rivers may well have repercussions on the oceanic population. beneficiaries of financial aid. And yet, nobody is likely to refuse Should the eventuality not be carefully pondered? The otherSWEATERS day I was in Skaftafell, the most renowned National to admit that the wealth of human societies largely depends Park in Iceland. A series of didactic panels are on display in on the welfare and abundance of nature. Still, the opposite Our Faustian Enterprise the Visitor Centre to celebrate the saga of the area. One in also happens to be true and the welfare and abundance of I am not arguing that any man-induced change brought upon particular drew my attention. The National Park – it explained nature is tied to the wealth and well being of society. our environment should be preventively forbidden. Our own – was instituted in order to allow nature to grow and develop Does it sound like a regression to magical thought? Per- presence, anyways, mutates the nature of “nature”. And it has in accordanceexperience “to its own rules”. For this reason, an the arcticgrazing of haps. But this ancient wisdom has also begun to be accepted been proven that even a hypothetic pristine Earth would not sheep was immediately forbidden. This brought forth as a side in highly modernistic circles such as the World Bank and the inherently tend to a self-organised state of equilibrium, but affect, however, an uncontrolled expansion of lupine – a non- International Monetary Fund. It is becoming widely recognised rather be shaken by periodic cycles of disruption and chaos. indigenous and rather invasive species – at the expense of the as a fact, indeed, what havoc on the environment is wreaked But yes, any large-scale alterations produced on our surround- local vegetation. What followed was a long-term plan – still by poverty and social disruption. ings remain something of Faustian enterprise, whose after- not fully realised – to eradicate lupine. After which, nature will As cases of savage deforestation in the Amazon, Indonesia maths are often clouded in uncertainty. finally beADVENTURE enabled to follow its course. and Nepal have documented, there can be no effective at- In a world where man and nature are entangled in a single Make no mistake; I thought it was a commendable ef- tempt at environmental preservation if it is not preceded by and inextricable web, actions undertaken in sight of a short- fort. And yet, as I read the panel, there was something that an increase in social welfare and equality. There is no sharp term advantage can disastrously backfire over a longer peri- bothered me. The whole discourse was built upon an inherent disjunction between the realms of “culture” and “nature”. od. Both successful adaptive strategies and sound economic ambiguity. “Nature should be allowed to grow spontaneously, Rather, a constant interplay and unsolvable entanglement. management used to be grounded on the common principle accordingand to its own laws”a daytripwas the morale of the outsidewhole story. minimisation of risk. As the stockbroker who ventures into But that same story highlights how reliant on human interven- The Icelandic Viewpoint rapacious and rash financial operations, we have apparently tion the “spontaneity” of nature has been in Skaftafell over A number of Icelanders I have spoken to, especially in the decided to leave that basic wisdom behind and play an increas- the years. Rather than being a pristine cradle of naturalness countryside, express irritation towards the wave of ecologic ingly hazardous game with our surroundings and ourselves. In – as is commonly suggested – the National Park appears to activism recently investing the island on the wake of large- both cases the stakes are extreme: incredible gains in the im- be a place of cultivated naturality. And what is that if not a scale projects for industrialisation. “Can’t we exploit our own mediate moment, but also catastrophic losses just behind the contradictionREYKJAVÍK in terms? Is it “natural” when it is nurtured? resources and get the most out of them? Just because some corner. I believe my uneasiness had nothing to do with the history ‘romantic idealists’ in Reykjavik or some metropolis in Europe In objection to such arguments, some contemporary of Skaftafell in particular. Rather, it stems from a dominant cul- or in the US are opposed to it? They live far away from the af- prophets of “utilitarian mechanism” may remove the mask tural model, which at a deeper analysis seems unable to cap- fected areas, how can they know better than us what’s to do? of philanthropy and wear that of freedom instead. “No con- ture the nuanced reality of human-environmental relations. All they want is to keep on with their comfortable city lives straint,” they say, “no collective concern should be placed on Like a knife, Western thought has cut the conceptual bonds and still have a place for summer vacations.” That was their the shoulders of the enterprising and ambitious individual. Let betweenPRIZES man and his surroundings, creating a split between basic argument. individual health and individual security be individual matters.” “nature” on the one hand and “culture” on the other: two When put in those terms I can agree with the objection, at In doing so, they reveal their true minds: a world of human separate Twodomains, closedsweaters and neatly delimited. from Cintamani least to a certain extent, but simply because the whole issue is and environmental relations, where the well being of the few And it is not difficult to notice how this distinction is re- poorly posed. We would gain different kinds of insights if we occurs to the detriment of the most. Not only is nature human- flected inDaytrip other similar opposing for two pairs typical with of a WesternArctic Rafting started to consider human-environmental relations in all their ised; they implicitly advocate the “naturalisation” of humans. dualistic philosophy: culture/nature, mind/body, subject/ob- entangled character and to recognise their extreme complexity Making waste paper of ‘the social contract’, forgetting any ject; theyDaytrip all represent the for same twopattern of with thought, appliedReykjavík Excursions – an endless string of actions, reactions and retroactions that previous alliance between man and his surroundings, they sub- to different levels of analysis. And according to what story one grasp “man” and “nature” in one single web of existence. To stitute all bonds of solidarity with a nightmarish vision of the reads, there is a different villain guilty of slicing a single reality start with, for example, we could reframe the whole ecologi- struggle for survival in accordance with the most vulgar read- in two and “objectifying the bodily world of nature.” In turn, cal question in purely utilitarian terms, showing that economic ing of Darwinism. And, since everything is entangled, such a it is Hebraism, Christianity, Socrates, Descartes, Positivism, Al maximisation is a slippery measure of judgement – and we struggle is going to invest the entire planet with all its inhab- Qaida… OK, the last one was a joke. But whoever is deemed would have a good chance to make a point. itants, man and nature alike: truly “a struggle of all against responsible, a reunification of our cosmos still appears far from “Energy in Iceland is both more inexpensive and clean than all”. being realised. Despite a massive speculative effort – especially elsewhere: exploiting it for industrial production is a way to in the last part of the 20th Century – our models of thought oppose global warming and not to contribute to it”. This is The Point, At Last are still prisoners of such dualistic conceptions. roughly the claim made by spokespersons for Alcoa, the mul- If there is a point to be drawn out of this discussion, then I tinational aluminium giant investing most heavily in the indus- believe that we are finally approaching it. Taking an ecological Two Conceptions of Nature trialisation of Iceland. stance is not about making dramatic choices between man This is not the case of claiming the frequently repeated false It might even be true: having no means to argue on the sci- and environment, seen as two opposite and mutually exclu- myths that other cultures are more “natural” than ours or more entific grounds of such a statement, I can only raise the doubt sive poles. It is not a matter of privileging the authenticity and able “to be one with nature”. Distinctions similar to the one whether the environmental costs for importing the raw mate- beauty of a mythical untamed “nature” over the artificial ugli- between culture and nature are present among many other rial and exporting the final products from the country do not ness of man-made industrialism and concrete; nor is it opting societies Tellas well. Butus most what often the you dynamic think and reciprocal end up levelling out the boasted benefits. for conservation, simplicity or a return to primitivism versus the character of that relationship is implicitly assessed, in some But the real point is another one. Global warming is only sirens of development and economic growth. cases evenAnswer portrayed in symbiotic honestly terms. It is thisfor dynamism a chance to win exciting prizes the tip of the iceberg, an instance on planetary scale of hu- No. As we are part of the same unity and talking about our and reciprocity that one day Western culture failed to recog- man-environmental relations, which have gone astray. The environment, I believe, it is like looking in a mirror: it is another nise, ultimately estranging itself from what we call “nature”. scope of the phenomenon has provided it with prominence in way to talk about ourselves. To ask questions such as: what Indeed, we always conceive of nature as different, whether public agendas worldwide – and with some right. But this can- foundations of growth and development are truly solid? What we approachThe it in Reykjavíkterms of exploitation orGrapevine with uncondition- readers’ survey at www.grapevine.is not become a device to overshadow the fact that the rapport society is actually healthy? What kind of community would al respect: never of belonging and communion. On the one between man and its surroundings can possibly be problem- we want to build and live in? Our relationship to “nature”, we hand, we have those who claim that “nature” is a world of atic in a number of other ways. Any alteration brought onto will discover, is already largely inscribed in the very answers to objects and physical facts, governed by laws and regularities. an ecosystemic matrix – besides its effects on global warming those questions. Science can read it like a book; technology can manipulate it – also bears other consequences, often unpredictable and un- It is my conviction that a conscious environmental move- like clay. Man should tame it in order to benefit from its boun- expected, often visible only in a long period, often quantifiable ment would have much to gain by appropriating such in- ty and employ its resources. Quantification and reification are as negative repercussions even in economic terms. sights. the trademarks of such a conception, which I call “utilitarian mechanism.” The Lesson From Reclaiming Wetlands On the other hand are those who see “nature” as the ul- You want examples? The reclamation of wetlands is an ongo- timate Otherness. Feminine and motherly, spontaneous and ing practice justified on the ground of a myth of “develop- uncultivated; their Nature (a “nature” with a capital N) is the ment”. For the most parts, it aims at acquiring further culti- >cVldgaYl]ZgZbVcVcYcVijgZ negative to the male and man-made world of the mind and vable land. At first, it would seem to be a wise option, at least VgZZciVc\aZY^cVh^c\aZVcY^cZm" ideas. Her sublime beauty inspires our awe and devotion. Her in a utilitarian perspective: after all, it is a matter of turning exploitation is comparable to rape and matricide. I call this apparently fruitless areas into productive ones. ig^XVWaZlZW!VXi^dchjcYZgiV`Zc^c view “romantic idealism.” In the United States, however, the collective costs for such If we can agree that we have environmental problems to- an operation amount to US $11,000 per year for each hectare h^\]id[Vh]dgi"iZgbVYkVciV\ZXVc day (and I would not express many doubts about it myself), of drained wetland. And this figure only takes into consider- Y^hVhigdjhanWVX`[^gZdkZgVadc\Zg then I believe that its profound causes have to be sought in ation the increased gravity of floods (wetlands act like spong- similar conceptions and in the dualistic way of thinking that es, which soak water and limit the impact of floods) and not eZg^dY# underlies them. Either they have justified illusory and fallacious other benefits that wetlands notably bring to an ecosystem. policies of economic maximisation at expense of ecological Seen from a long-period perspective, then, is indiscrimi- awareness; or fostered an environmental counterculture that nate land reclamation a sound economic strategy? Doubting is offspring of the same mindset and as such weakened by its Prizes are valid throughout the year that claim seems more than licit. And the whole history of own premises and stereotypes. agriculture is full of episodes of poor management due to en- 18_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/CDS RVK_GV_06_2007_REVIEWS_19 XJUIJOSFBDIXJUIJOSFBDI 4BOEHFS§J4BOEHFS§J 8FMDPNF 0OMZNJOVUFTESJWFGSPN3FZLKBWJL BOEPOMZNJOVUFTGSPN,FnBWJL"JSQPSU

Samúel Jón Samúelsson Big Band Hraun Ruddinn Björk Fnykur I Can’t Believe It is Not Happiness Ruddinn Volta 4BOEHFS§JIBTB/BUVSF3FTFBSDI$FOUSFo5IF4V§VSOFT6OJWFSTJUZ3FTFBSDI$FOUSFBOEUIF &YIJCJUJPOi5IF"UUSBDUJPOPGUIF1PMFTw*O4BOEHFS§JUIFSFJTBMTPBOBSUHBMMFSZ DBOEMF Only 7 years out of music school, Samúel Jón Samúelsson I’m not going to tell you that the packaging of this album Calling himself a ‘true Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,’ the lone Rud- Like enthusiastic parents, we’re supposed to egg Björk on. Even if she NBLJOHXPSLTIPQ TVNNFSIPVTFT BIPMFHPMGDPVSTFBOENVDINPSF has already built an accomplished resume. A graduate of didn’t frighten me. That would be lying. Hraun is written in dinn has been writing and putting forth pop for the past 15 doesn’t score a goal or win first place at the science fair, we’ve still got 'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOMPHPOUP the prominent Tónlistarskóli FíH, the composer has done ar- Old English font, and the album title is obviously an emo- years. If I’m doing my math right, this guy has been around to hand it to her just for being, well, Björk. And I acknowledge that her rangements for Sigur Rós, Sálin, Reykjavík Big Band, and Tra- tional take on the margarine company I Can’t Believe It’s Not since the early 80’s. It seems that Ruddinn might be stuck in a work should stand apart from the conventional musical criticisms and XXXTBOEHFSEJJTPSDBMM bant and has been a key player in the annual Reykjavik Jazz Butter, which is embarrassing. The album cover is a picture time capsule, as most of his work draws from the likes of New be praised for constantly redefining genres and defying musical linear- Festival. On his myspace is a picture of him with James Brown of the band (a sensitive looking bunch, to be sure) eating Order, Joy Division and maybe a little Slowdive. The songs, ity. Sure. But that doesn’t make listening to Volta any easier. Much of (RIP), who SJS backed up with his other funk band Jagúar. His a candlelit dinner at what appears to be a nice restaurant. for the most part, are well-crafted electronic pop. Unfortu- the album is so instrumentally indulgent and electronically reliant that magic is pretty apparent: as complex as the arrangements on Inside, there’s a picture of one of them reading a book. Al- nately, the album is poorly produced (it appears that Ruddinn the ultimate effect is something disjointed, incoherent, and frankly, inac- Fnykur are, they never become overwhelming. Sometimes ready I can’t relate. The best word to describe this band is did all the work himself) and ultimately it comes off as more cessible. Maybe the extensive cast (ranging from Timbaland to Lightning songs switch directions and go into new territory, but for ‘safe’. Light acoustic guitar, soft voices, and semi-fuzzy elec- of a quickly-produced 10-track rough than a carefully crafted Bolt’s Brian Chippendale) is to blame for the lack of focus. Björk certainly the most part, they are straightforward funk, with blaring tric guitar lines. The lyrics testify against the unfulfilling life of album. The vocals sound muffled and amorphous, and there hasn’t lost her abilities as a musical visionary (Vertebrae by Vertebrae) or a brass arrangements, bubbly bass lines, and choking electric drinking and bathroom blowjobs. Hraun is kind of like your are dissonant parts here that were probably not intended. catchy tunesmith (Declare Independence and Earth Intruders). Still, there guitar spurts. While nothing on Fnykur stands out, it’s clear concerned 35-year-old brother who’s “been through it all.” Moreover, when the similarities between Eyes on Me and is nothing truly engaging about her latest release, and the main effect of why he’s so respected in Iceland. It’s not uncommon to see Might wanna pass this one on to your parents, because this New Order’s Bizarre Love Triangle become too obvious, it Volta is that it has pretty much strolled right by you. The good moments the American influence in a lot of Icelandic music, but you’ve is the kind of stuff that frat boys listen to back in the States. seems like Ruddinn might be up to some foul play. I thought (and there are a few) are just too sparse. Where Volta depends too heav- got to hand it to the guy who spawns the Icelandic ‘Funk’ CF you said you’ve been doing this for 15 years, man. CF ily on instrumentation and the work of contributors, it becomes a little genre. CF ostentatious. Even for Björk. CF www.myspace.com/hraunhraun www.myspace.com/ruddinn www.myspace.com/samminammi www.myspace.com/ruddinn

1994 2005 2005 1989

Unun Pan Hera Nýdönsk Æ Virgins Don’t Play This Ekki er á allt kosið

Supergroup Unun, including ‘Cubes guitarist Þór Eldon, at These five kids from Hafnarfjörður, who produced this al- Not since Spinal Tap’s Shark Sandwich has someone lobbed In the early 90’s, the Icelandic music landscape was dominated by four first might seem like a poor man’s Sugarcubes, but with a bum themselves, present tight hard rock worth respect. a softball like this to a reviewer – the abysmal cover featuring bands: The plastic soul of Sálin, the pseudo Stones of SSSól and the art- closer look they manage to create something entirely their While the guitars, often mixing palm muting with harmonics, a smiling, topless girl, (the picture cuts just at the top of the pop of Todmobile. The best of the bunch was a group of kids from MH own. Frontman Heiða managed to supersede the inevitable don’t catch you by surprise, the band has the kind of timing breasts to be playful), does not help the tag line Don’t Play high school who, in 1989 released their first, and best album, Ekki er á Björk comparisons to become one of the most interesting that makes you nod your head to even conventional tunes. This at all. But Hera and the performers on her album don’t allt kosið. Despite finishing last in that year’s Eurovision, singer Daniel and artists of the past decade. But the bands’ engine is guitar- In addition to simply being well-rehearsed, the band works deserve the bile that the cover raises. True, she has a song his gang painted an unforgettable portrait of teenagers blindly following ist Dr. Gunni and his knack for writing melodic post-punk, around genuinely strong vocals from Halldór Örn Guðnason. about chocolate, Chocolate, It Melts the Pain Away, that trends on Apaspil, becoming trendsetters themselves in the process. Mel- as exemplified on, well, pretty much all of the tracks. They How good is his singing? He can make “Pseudo-saviour of won’t win her any songwriting competitions. But she seems low, acoustic, and slightly hippie-ish, the stand out tracks feature bassist became an instant hit in Iceland in 1994, but failed to con- gold/ wash me whiter than snow” sound gutty and bold. earnest enough, and she has a crystal clear voice. And a lot Björn Jörundur centre stage on Hjálpaðu mér upp and Fram á nótt. The quer the world and rumour has it that Gunni is still paying (Rhyme intentional.) If the band can mix up the rhythms a of people don’t listen to words anyway. And maybe twelve early 90’s saw the two front men recruiting veterans Jón Ólafsson and off debts accrued during the attempt. Eldon left the band little, as songs like Dying in Our Prime indicate they have the year olds need a topless role model. BC Stefán Hjörleifsson, each album selling more than the one before, but after the first album, and the follow up failed to capture the ability to do, Pan will be touted as the next Mínus. BC quality wise heading in the opposite direction. They split up after 1993’s spark of the original. Heiða moved back to Keflavík where www.myspace.com/herasings flop Hunang, Daniel heading out to form Gus Gus while Björn stayed be- she fronts underground the band Hellvar and recently ran www.myspace.com/panband hind and eventually reformed the band as sole front man. VG for MP, whereas Dr. Gunni is finally living up to his assumed moniker as Iceland foremost authority on the subject of rock and roll. VG

Reviews by Bart Cameron, Chandler Fredrick and Valur Gunnarsson

An outstanding collection of Icelandic design

:mXî^c\ icelandic design A new design shop in the oldest house in Reykjavík Clothes, jewellery and applied art Kdgd[[Zgh\gZVi[ddYXdbW^cZYlî]\ddY Located in the center of the city eg^XZhVcYVcndcZl]da^`ZhBZYîZggVcZVc More than 60 designers \djgbZiXdd`^c\h]djaYXdbZk^hîi]ZcZl VcYZmXî^c\gZhiVjgVci#

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GREEN Kolviður: The Fate of Small Town Iceland

A Noble Idea Gone Wrong Text by Haukur S. Magnússon

Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson “You know what I think should be done about import labour to operate the business [Kambur’s Flateyri? Nothing. Nothing at all. Not even a kilo workforce is 90% immigrant]. Kambur is doing of quota should go their way. No last-minute extremely well. The company had a record-year On May 15th, the President of Iceland, Ólafur were obviously required to contribute more. operations to glaze over the grim facts-of- last year [2005], processing a full 8.000 tons Ragnar Grímsson, officially opened the Iceland See the similarities? the-matter, no patch on the gaping wound. of products.” Carbon Fund’s website at a prestigious gather- In their defence, it must be said that on the Nothing.” So much for record-years. ing with great fanfare and media attention. Iceland Carbon Fund’s website it is stated that Sitting in the now-abolished smoking sec- So much for jobs to be had. The founding partners of the fund are the this should not be regarded as an absolution of tion of Ísafjörður pub/café Langi Mangi my Luckily, God (or the Icelandic government) NGOs the Icelandic Forestry Association and sins. They point out that the most effective way companion, a journalist for local newspaper rarely closes a door without opening some the Icelandic Environment Association, while of meeting the challenge of global warming BB, lit a cigarette, chugged the last of his beer windows. And behold! The viability of estab- the Government of Iceland, Reykjavík Energy, is not to neutralise CO2 emission, but to seek and finished his sentiment. “It’s time people lishing a large-scale oil refinery in the vicinity of and Kaupþing Bank supply the financial as- ways to reduce CO2 emission. But, as I stated get confronted with the harsh reality of this Flateyri is already being researched and seriously sistance. before, it is not really the Icelandic Carbon system. Head on. It is doing exactly what it was discussed. It would provide the people of the The aim of the Iceland Carbon Fund is to Fund that is causing me concern. designed for; this is how it works, this is what northern Westfjords with 5-600 additional jobs. finance forestry in Iceland in order to dispel the It has hardly been two weeks since the it amounts to and this is what they voted for, And they need them, as it is evident that the effects of the greenhouse gas carbon dioxide project got off its feet, and already car dealer- continually. So let them enjoy it!” fishing industry on which these towns were (CO2) in the atmosphere. Plants and vegetation ships are running ad campaigns claiming that What should be done about Flateyri in- originally founded has left the area for good, bind CO2 through photosynthesis, turning the every car they sell is environmentally friendly, deed? Mere days after the parliamentary elec- the region’s allotted quota quietly traded away The Night the PA System Blew Orchestral Manoeuvres in London carbon (C) into plant mass, while releasing the since the dealership will pay for neutralising, tions, word got out that the proprietors of by the robber barons that built (and later dis- oxygen (O2). The combination of continuing nay, absolving, your new car’s CO2 emission… Flateyri’s biggest employer (“sole employer” is mantled) their empires there. Theseare deforestation, and the ever-increasing release for the first year. This sounds all too much like hardly an overstatement), fishery Kambur, were the Icelandic equivalents of Flint, Michigan. This Text by Chandler Fredrick Photo by Gulli Text and photo by Ben H. Murray of CO2, mostly from transportation, is among the delusional gambler who always intends to liquidating the business. 120 townspeople, is how the system works: it is doing exactly the main contributors to global warming, so pay off his gambling debts with the next big nearly half the population, stand to lose their what it was designed for. forestry seems to be an obvious path to pursue win. jobs this fall. Their given reasons: inflation, the Icelanders often speak of problems facing the former. The band had a well-rehearsed set, ten in Icelandic”, a slow-burning lullaby which in the battle against greenhouse gases. In that Now we are being bombarded with mes- resulting strength of the Króna against foreign small communities such as Flateyri, problems Who: Motion Boys, Sprengjuhöllin, the power of Högni Egilsson’s lilting voice, and Who: Benni Hemm Hemm and Stór- was dedicated to the aluminium factories that context, the Iceland Carbon Fund is obviously sages from companies that have miraculously currencies and the high cost of renting quota shared by most if not all of the small towns FM Belfast and Hjaltalín numerous clever string arrangements. “Good- sveit Nix Noltes are irreparably scarring Iceland’s landscape. a noble idea. become “CO2 neutral.” Suddenly, every prod- (the highly debated Icelandic fishing regulatory lining the island’s shoreline, problems for which Where: Iðnó bye July” was among the best performances Where: Catch, London When you see Benni Hemm Hemm it’s the Let me make one thing clear from the uct you may want to buy is ‘green,’ because system deserves many lengthy essays. It is quota behemoth aluminium smelting plants (and When: May 24, 2007 that night. When: May 21, 2007 little details that make them so memorable: start. I fully believe that the Iceland Carbon somewhere, someone is planting trees in- based, and a few large fisheries now possess now oil-refineries) are often our government’s As far as the hype surrounding FM Belfast the little zipping sound of a finger scraping Fund was created with the best of intentions stead and now there is no real need for you a huge portion of the allotted quota. Smaller proposed solution. As a part of the Take Me Down to Reykjavík goes, I’m sold. The members dressed up like The venue in East London known as Catch does against a guitar string as the chord changes; and that the people behind it believed they to change your pattern of consumption. In businesses and independent operators need to Here are some examples: City concert series, the Grapevine assembled my grandparents and furiously dryhumped ev- have a catch – it’d be easier to track down one the brass instruments, including the eternally were doing a genuinely good thing. And the the hands of the market, being green is not rent theirs at a considerable price). Kambur’s -Educated youngsters aren’t returning to the a handful of upstart bands from Reykjavík to erything in sight. Mastermind Árni +1 fingered of the Jule lads in June than locate this bar, jolly French horn player, gently fading in and idea per se, to bind CO2 through forestry, is question of survival; it is a question of pushing owners will of course walk away with consider- communities that fostered them. This is some- showcase at Iðnó. The historical theatre house away at a sticker-covered Mac while the others situated just outside the city’s main financial out of each song; and the pint glass of dried a genuinely good idea. a product. able sums of money. That’s business. times referred to as brain drain. is not typically used for shows, even though sang in high, cooing voices. With strong beats district in the fashionably scruffy Shoreditch peas that joined the band. The peas were Still, something has gone horribly wrong. In reality, forestry is a band-aid fix that does Regular readers of the Grapevine may re- -Government jobs are severely unevenly distrib- it has a spacious main ballroom and a sizable and scattered electronic blips and bleeps, they area. Thankfully, the lost late-comers (and there housed in a plastic beer glass with their own The fund offers individuals, companies and nothing to eliminate the real problem, which member learning about Flateyri in issue 12 of uted around the country. Save for a precious antechamber. Sound at the theatre is clean had at least 5% of the crowd dancing (which were many) didn’t miss a note as Benni Hemm microphone and whenever the band reached organizations the opportunity to ‘neutralise’ is the un-sustainable mode of living that we last year, in an article entitled Flateyri and the few, most of them are located in Reykjavík, even and relatively professional; that is, when the was more than any other band that night). Hemm took some time to make the transition one of their many crescendos the peas danced their yearly CO2 emission from transporta- have chosen. We need to reduce greenhouse fate of small town Iceland. It mainly dealt with those positions founded during the last decade bands aren’t cutting out every minute or so. Without a doubt, the sassy FM Belfast stole from tuning their plethora of instrumentation a merry jig in the glass, with a little help from tion by paying for the planting of a sufficient gases by actually driving less, not by driving the town’s continually diminishing size, its one- when it was evident that smaller towns would But we’ll get to that later. the show. to full orchestral magnificence. the bass instruments, and added to the sound number of trees to reverse the effects of the more. Forestry should be our way of bringing horse economy and the fact that an estimated need the boost they could provide. American singer-songwriter Sam Amidon I should say that if Sprengjuhöllin is the At this point I have to admit that I was with a rhythmic rattling. Some were lost in ac- CO2 they produce. To that end, the Govern- down CO2 emission, and there is certainly third of it’s population of 300 (down from -Uniting with neighbouring towns (way of started the show with a set of what he claimed least impressive band on your ticket, you’re rather spoiled by my previous Benni Hemm tion but thankfully the multi-tasking trumpet ment of Iceland has ‘neutralised’ all their flights enough to go around, not neutralising added 500 in its heyday) is comprised of immigrants the future!) meant forfeiting certain modes to be “old American songs,” but I’m pretty doing something right. The quintet isn’t going Hemm experience. I saw them perform a joy- player had peas in reserve. to foreign shores this year. And yes, that is CO2 emission. Myself, I bought a bike and and immigrant-workers from Poland and the of employment, such as common commerce sure I heard some Tears for Fears in there. The to break new musical ground anytime soon, ous pre-Christmas gig in a Reykjavík theatre After Benni Hemm Hemm departed the probably a shitload of trees, in case you were stopped driving to work. Philippines who sometimes have trouble fully and service jobs. As a result, available jobs are native Vermonter’s first few songs sounded like but they do the pop thing well. An Icelandic late last year with about 15 band members, crammed stage to much applause from the wondering. Myself? Well, I would need to pay Sending out the message that it is even adapting and participating in local culture. It pointedly un-diverse. an impressive mixture of southern folk and the rendition of the Motown favourite Heatwave including a full brass section supporting Bene- modest crowd, the-band-that-nobody-dared- the Iceland Carbon Fund around 5000 ISK to possible to somehow stay ‘neutral,’ when it portrayed a still proud small-town, struggling -Most of the community is employed by a Red House Painters. However, in the middle of was the highlight of their set. dikt Hermannsson’s whisper-smooth vocals to-try-and-pronounce took their place and plant 35 trees to CO2 neutralise the family’s comes to global warming is wrong. We should to find its legs in modernity following a series single company. one particularly gorgeous number he belted On came the long awaited (and debuting!) and gentle guitar playing. Sadly, not all of the treated the audience to some lively folk rock trusted Opel Zafira. not entertain the idea of staying on the side- of setbacks. -A large part of that company’s workforce (at out two horrific shrieks, with accompanying Motion Boys. Quite unexpectedly, singer Birgir extended band members were present (the instrumental work. Stórsveit Nix Noltes, to give And how is this a bad thing you may ask? lines when it comes to this fight. As of now, One of the people I interviewed for said Kambur: 90%) is comprised of immigrants. eerie facial expressions. People carefully began Ísleifurmidi-concerts.pdf opened up with 4/11/07 a solo, an10:55:30 unplugged AM seven who did make the journey to London them their full name, consists of two mysteri- Well, think of it in this context. In the past, we all belong in the ring. article was Halldór Halldórsson, mayor of Ísaf- -Language-barriers and scarce educational re- to move away from the front of the stage in version of Hold Me Closer to Your Heart on the packed the small stage with a trombone, trum- ously beautiful ladies on accordion and violin the church sold absolution. If you committed To bring the discussion to a close, I applaud jarðarbær, the coalition township that unites sources often isolate said immigrant portion what seemed to be an act of self-defence. electric piano. A group chorus of “hoos” at the pet, horn, drums and various guitars) but they and assorted members of Benni Hemm Henm a very small sin, you would buy the budget every true effort to protect the environment, Flateyri with several (closely) neighbouring from the rest of the community, making it hard Fight or flight. A last minute addition, Amidon interlude indicated that a lot of the audience more than made up for their lack of numbers and friends on various other instruments. The package and be absolved from your sin, but but being truly green takes more than slapping towns. While he agreed that Flateyri had its for them to fully integrate. and his antics didn’t seem to fit in with the had done their homework. The band came with a genuinely delightful evening of unique sound is chaotic, but not overly so, and could for a really big sin, say rape and pillage, you a bumper sticker at the back of your car. fair share of problems, he expressed optimism seriousness of the other bands that night. out and played a few songs together, when music. be likened to a gang of delinquent Romanian for its future. “There’s plenty of jobs to be Surely, heavy industry will serve to solve these As for Hjaltalín, I typically get sceptical suddenly the power blew out. The band, being Fight is one of the band’s few English lan- gypsies – who can hold their vodka and still had,” he told me, “even though we need to problems for good. when a band I haven’t seen before gets on either valiant troopers or too deaf to hear that guage songs and its down-tempo attitude turn out a decent tune or three – running riot stage with instruments like the bassoon, the they’d lost their loud keyboards, continued doesn’t showcase the band’s ability too well in at an Icelandic wedding party. Despite not hav- accordion or the cello. It can go either way their song before finally realising that they had comparison to their grander Icelandic-language ing a single vocal contribution in their whole This sounds all too much like the delusional gambler with these bands: either they rock (like The rocked too hard. The Boys looked unscathed, songs, despite having some nice poetic lyrics set, they offered something a little different to Arcade Fire) or they come out overblown and but the crowd was obviously disappointed. about falling out with a spouse on a grey day. Benni Hemm Hemm and something very differ- who always intends to pay off his gambling debts Luckily, God (or the Icelandic government) rarely pretentious, using layered instruments to cover Eventually, Birgir Ísleifur finished the set solo Other tracks from Kajak, their triumphant last ent to the dozens of guitar-based bands that with the next big win. up bad songwriting (think The Decemberists). and unplugged to a diminishing crowd. album, followed and included the brilliantly were also playing in Shoreditch that night. closes a door without opening some windows. Fortunately, Hjaltalín ended up being more like bold Brekken plus “the saddest song ever writ-

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Regarding the article ‘The struggle for autonomy’ Vilhelm Vilhelmsson. They hate everybody else than by Vilhelm Vilhelmsson in ‘The Grapevine’, issue themselves, they hate the Police and other authori- 04/2007. ties, they hate the democratic society outside their After reading the rather one-sided article about own small world, and they hate everybody else that I=:HIGJ<

li André Nabulsi 6JIDCDBN Text by Vilhelm Vilhelmsson Photo by A by on his way home. He was jumped by three Ungdomshuset and its people, I will have to comment do not share their views upon the world. brought in front of a judge, five at a time, all r, beaten a few times in the streets whenever policemen in riot gea countless awareness and beat up citizens accused of violence agains t the police. She and drafted a three court battles and quo. The with the policemen’s helmets and, when a used More Youth Houses was formed s to try their existence threatens the status says the only reason she wasn’t sentenced to ng illegal, 50 metres from where Ungdomshuset sent campaigns and peaceful demonstration house was a symbol for that freedom, that as search of his pockets revealed nothi continued for a while and I ended up hiding in document with four basic demands to pre to keep their beloved house, but to no avail. custody like everybody else in the group w It could have been a scene from a James Bond to be, several police vans were lined up across ral evictions diversity. he was forced to take off his clothes so the a churchyard together with a couple of other urther to the authorities. After seve Faderhuset, the religious organis ation that her old age. oughly. He movie. Cops in b ullet-proof vests descended he the street, stopping people from going f city council finally gave up and mentalist The thousands of people demonstrating people were evicted the policemen could search them thor protesters while the police swept through t . All of a sudden their and riots, the bought the house, is a tiny funda lly Two days after the on a few things since it is definitely not a neutral Mr. Vilhelm Vilhelmsson also mentioned in his from a helicopter above onto the roof of the ir way. The riots into the neighbourhood gtvej 69 to the feel that the authorities are systematica was eventually allowed to go home. They’ve ad agreed to give the house at Ja n more houses in Copenhagen t hot teargas into area arresting everyone in the Christian sect led by Ruth Evensen who claims ng that doesn’t fit police raided te also arrested members of the prisoner suppor building, while below others s l it sirens began to wail, the vans charged ahe group. The mayor handed them the keys to God. The sect is trying to wipe out anythi were still in full swing when I decided to cal those unlucky enough to be er she is in direct contact with with only one warrant – including the offices network ABC and the Street’s First Aid group the house before entering it from all sides. full speed and the house at an official ceremony in Octob into their idea of culture and society. That rganisations – looking for unity centre a night and go home. very controversial in De nmark. Their school e a political culture of legal political o ured protester After serving as a user-run comm there had to run for their lives. ey refused they are trying to eliminat le were who were attending an inj 1982. was closed down last year since th foreign activists. More than 100 peop e arrested them, even though for almost 25 years, Ungdomshuset at Jagtvej This is a tactic that was frequently used hat, in of resistance: the anarchists and socialists, ner in the group when the polic

The agreement between them was t © 2007 WESTERN UNION HOLDINGS, INC. All rights reserved. 6[iZgi]ZG^dih to teach certain obligatory subjects such as mmonly called, the arrested and every foreig they were clearly marked as a neutral first aid 69 in Copenhagen was cleared on Thursday during the demonstrations and at least one return for control of the house, the Initiative ing instead or, as they are more co view of the case about Ungdomshuset written by article that some of the Two days later – as I marched down a street in er by a police car. Darwin’s theory of evolution, opt people I talked to at deported without any evidence of illegal team. s a regular user of the person had been run ov e, holding “autonomer.” Most of these raids, at a morning, March 1. A central Copenhagen and looked around at the Group would run it for public us en that the biblical tale of activities. In at least one les of how the residents’ struggle, After that, everyone walking away from the nars, workshops to teach the childr demonstrations weren’t re gular users of arted These are just a few examp house and a supporter of its thousands of demonstrators marching against rched and concerts, art exhibitions, semi ld began. collective in Baldersgade, the police st d served” the community e and ultimate eviction of elp area was stopped by police, sea the creation was in fact how the wor Ungdomshuset – some had never even been sters into the police “protected an I was angry at the sal the eviction of Ungdomshuset – I couldn’t h and so on – a duty the occupants of going the process by firing teargas cani If you even questioned and ordered to go home. The non-stop for the past The sect has attacked toy manufacturers there – but rather people tired of this on in Copenhagen during the period. people from the house as well as the efforts house have fulfilled They house where most occupants were sleeping, ” you could expect to homogenise culture and but think how much our view of the world is policeman told me that if the police stopped for manufacturing “satanic” toys. looked like an “autonom of local authorities lthough 25 years. The house was promptly renamed brainwashing young homogenising and culture-destroying process the door, locked ements such as distorted by the mainstream media. A have been accused of lisation then promptly kicked down to be stopped in the street, questioned and Vilhelm Vilhelmsson. arrested people were sentenced without any evi- eliminate unwanted social el , the demonstrations me again anywhere in the city that night, I Ungdomshuset, or The Youth House. that has been dubbed the “norma the rioting had stopped people attending their schools and religious the house owners’ two dogs in a room filled searched, possibly a rrested or beaten. If punks and anarchists. So I joined the protests. there were would be arrested. Ever since, the users themselves have been process.” ration of the two-hour and protests continued. But since mpted to sermons and R uth Evensen declared during with teargas for the du at ng Molotov cocktails, This was how the police atte ng the house, without The official r esponse from politicians you happened to be at the wrong place no burning fires or flyi d intimidation; responsible for operati the Sunday sermon on March 4, that after the raid, arrested everybody and then proceeded lained about March 1, at 10 pm, I joi ned around 2000 control the situation: threats an de. after the uproar began when the people personal belongings the wrong time, if you comp ntral the media was disinterested. are assistance or interference from outsi satanic influence of Ungdomshuset had finally on March 1 to destroy furniture and people gathered at Radhuspladsen in ce systematically breaking the laws they e principle e were evicted from the house police behaviour or if you dared to attend a They would rather have everyone believe up arrested Ungdomshuset was run on th been defeated, their next targets would b in the house. risked being arrested and ore marching into Nørrebro, ers of this supposed to uphold; beating major has been one of denial and a naive refusal to demonstration you Copenhagen bef that the activists and support of consensus democracy, where all rtion. The evening after the eviction, a young man The article is written like the people connected dence being presented against them other than was individuals inside police vans where there collective meetings homosexuals and abo problem they detained in custody. the neighbourhood where Ungdomshuset decisions are taken at find a common solution to the fins emblazoned with controversial house were all stone-throwing, o give their name e house. They have by the name of Alex was going downtown The house at Jagtvej 69 is now gone. It was situated. We carried cof were no witnesses; refusing t open to everyone, and the issues are discussed created when they sold th o celebrate his 17th , troublemaking teenagers with Mohawks and BV^ciV^c^c\i]ZHiVijhFjd ing someone to with a group of friends t demolished just a few days after the eviction. slogans such as “diversity” and “freedom” and badge number when asked (as they are until everyone is satisfied, as opposed to y very mostly been interested in find I’MSENDING piercings in the strangest places. Black clad e who Ungdomshuset meant a lot to man s been random birthday. As the group was walking down a ouse, and I saw we sang songs an d shouted slogans and required to by law); harassing anyon reby blame. The police response ha racing after A lot of people loved that h oup. anarchist extremists with their faces covered conventional majority rule democracy whe as a meeting place and street an unmarked car began . looked remotely suspicious; videotaping and as to accept the will different people. It w violence and extreme violations of human many people cry as it was being demolished you could sense a lot of anger in the gr and their backpa cks filled with destructive he streets to an unsatisfied minority h where them and they started running away. The g, the empty site where s all day, some of them on photographing everyone walking t for political groups, it was a place civil rights, all sanctioned by the Minister of e At the time of writin to Ungdomshuset are a group of nice innocent police reports. Well, that is not unusual in Denmark There had been protest devices. Violent psychopaths hell bent of the majority. ionally get free car caught up with young Alex and thre build a database of possible suspects; arresting homeless people could occas Justice, Lene Espersen, who put the blame for ed on him and the house once stood is filled with thousands violent, and more than 100 people had already destruction. ehaviour, In the house itself there was a small arse plainclothes policemen jump oodbye notes and ally did not know what to people for commenting on their b es meals, a place where bands could rehe the riots on “bad parenting.” s then thrown of flowers, candles, g been arrested so I re Yet as I looked around I saw only diversity. bookshop, two concert halls, practice spac housands of people beat him with batons. He wa putting up posters or other harmless activities; l groups, and play gigs, where t poems. expect. awk-sporting punks, bead- for bands, meeting rooms for politica into the backseat of the car and it was only There were Moh the list is endless. went to meet friends and party. It was a safe emen But we are not giving up. The demonstrations The march ended in Folkets Park in Nørrebro a large kitchen which served cheap vegan s and others who often EgdiZXiVcYHZgkZ then that he realised they were polic wearing hippies, leather-clad metalheads, ly other things haven for homosexual and protest actions will continue until another where a few speeches were made, a large p-hop crews, ravers, food once a week and probab As of March 12, over 700 people have il the baggy pants-wearing hi feel threatened out in the “real world.” But 200 of those have been because he heard them give reports on their house will be available to us, unt kindergarden kids playing with their toys. Sorry, but or many other civilized countries, I think. The Police bonfire was lit and people began mingling and ents with Jc\Ydbh]jhZi been arrested and ut the senior citizens, middle-aged par on Jagtvej 69 was originally that I am unaware of. There were concerts, ultimately, the house isn’t the real issue. The real eeks. radio. In the car he was questioned abo drinking beer. At some point a barricade was hole bunch of people The large house workshops sentenced to custody for up to 4 w authorities stop threatening Christiania with their children and a w nish labour raves, art exhibitions, seminars and issue at hand is to protect cultural diversity: the rest of the group and what they were up to, s a part of built in the street and lit on fi re and shortly st built in the 1890s by the Da 33 of those are mino rs (children under 18 icemen eviction, until we are recognised a that were impossible to categorise, they ju y donations from the teaching everything from bicycle building be different. It’s about receiving beatings whenever the pol movement, financed b women, along with right to think, live and years) including a 15-year-old girl accused of this society, no better and no worse than the thereafter came the teargas. looked “normal” (whatever that is!). And e when salaries to self defence for didn’t like his r esponse. He was then driven not only Danish working class at a tim being able to be free to maintain, operate he street. All these day rest. They can tear down all our houses but I still don’t know which came first, the more ambitious projects, like how to start a ithout outside digging stones up from t to a jail where he was held until the next the demonstration was a success. Not barely covered basic need s. It was called and define our own culture w our convictions, our beliefs and our opinions. throwing of stones at the police or the joyable, it was also revolution. people were sentenced without any evidence uestioned. He was never or pushed that is not the fact. Far from, actually. do NOT necessarily need anything else but the police ran a safe was it peaceful and en with interference or having to ask for permission. st them other than when he was again q We will not be shut up, locked out teargas canisters, but either way I Folkets Hus – The People’s House – and there being presented again huge, with up to 5000 people marching for Eventually, the authorities were fed up y in a world told what he was accused of or why he had m they held political meetings, fundraising balls rs of the house It’s about finding your own identit police reports. A 64-year-old retired doctor away. The struggle for free, autonomous space distance away with the majority of the crowd, Ungdomshuset, diversity and freedom fro the radical activities of the use been arrested, but he did receive a fine for urning and so on. house was still the that is becoming increasingly homogenous was arrested along with a g roup of about 40 continues. tears running down my face and a b police control. and since, legally, the “disturbing the peace” and was subsequently The house was abandoned in the 1950s gen and monotonous. people who had been at a demonstration but sensation in my eyes, nose, throat and lungs. Later that day I was again in Nørrebro property of the Municipality of Copenha people released. and stood empty for the better part of 30 years This is not possible in a society where the stones began to The crowd gathered again, more barricades it was sold to a fundam entalist Christian sect ace necessary were fleeing away after Another man shouted, “go home, this isn’t trying to find a demonstration that had been until 1981 when a large squa tting movement 0. Since are refused the autonomous sp The vast majority of those people are notorious reports. Just to make that clear to you and the read- were built and subsequently set on fire and e walking called Faderhuset in the year 200 projects. A society fly and teargas filled the air. The group was your fight” at a fe w policemen as he walked announced. There were a lot of peopl for the realisation of such l and then then the sequence repeated itself. More rose up in Copenhagen, seizing empty houses then, the activists at Unger en – as the house houses held for 24 hours in a crowded cel down the main street. It was a Saturday night all over the city, including th e one at Folkets e fought that sends its storm troopers to evict teargas and flying rocks and bottles and this o parties or or was lovingly called by its users – hav iving and people were on their way t Hus. It was there that the Initiative Group f gZhjeedhZYidje]daY#¹ time a teargas canister hit me in the leg g clubs. When I reached an intersection about gZV`^c\i]ZaVlhi]ZnV cold blooded criminals trying to reach their goals with ers of ‘The Grapevine’. me a limp f or the rest of the weekend. This ijVi^dc0i]gZVihVcY^ci^b^YVi^dc!hnhiZbVi^XVaanW ¸I]^hlVh]dli]Zeda^XZViiZbeiZYidXdcigdai]Zh^ HAPPINESS primitive methods, such as violence and vandalism. It is also important to mention that if you, during They have no respect what so ever for the general a violent demonstration, are told by the Police to society and its people. They have taken away their leave the scene, and you for some reason decide to how little he actually knows of what is going on. as odd is that I have yet to see a neutral account of own membership card to the civilized, democratic stay, you are at great risk of being arrested. ALSO if It is just stupid and primitive when people like what happened. world where most of us belong. you do not take part in the demonstration yourself Vilhelm Vihelmsson claims that this is the way the Every mainstream media outlet’s coverage of When demonstrating the representatives of the but just are there as a spectator. That is the way the Danish Police is and this is how they work. Maybe the events I watched, read, or heard, was extremely Ungdomshus always cover their faces with a mask law is in Denmark. it is a surprise to you, but that is NOT the fact. The one-sided. The people protesting the closing of the or a cloth so they cannot be recognized when they Mr. Vilhelm Vilhelmsson made it sound like the Danish Police are actually highly respected both Ungdomshuset were badly represented in these commit their crimes. They do not even want to show Police just arrested people because of the fun of it. nationwide as well as internationally. The Danish segments, if at all. Your letter is full of blatant over- their faces – I would call that being cowardice. There was actually a reason and as said before, if Police Force got a lot of positive feed back from the simplifications, erroneous statements and false ac- It would have been appropriate for Mr. Vilhelm you are told to leave, and you do not, then you will general population, from the politicians and from cusations. But, it is entirely possible that none of Vilhelmsson to mention what the Police actually be arrested. And that is fair enough, I think. And if other sides as well, for the eviction of Ungdomshu- this is your fault, since the media did a terrible job found inside the Ungdomshus: The Police found a you were wrongly arrested, you are of course entitled set. Maybe a few cases about police brutality in the of presenting both sides of the struggle. huge arsenal of weapons, enough to start a small to compensation. After all, everyone make mistakes aftermaths of the riots, will end in court - nobody You state: “The article is written like the people war! Nasty weapons like molotov cocktails, flame – sometimes also the Police. knows - time will tell. connected to Ungdomshuset are a group of nice launchers, nail canisters, iron spears, big stones and Mr. Vilhelm Vilhelmsson also mentions that This was my comment on Vilhelm Vilhelmsson’s innocent kindergarden kids playing with their toys. rocks etc. etc. the Police refused, if asked, to give their name and article about the, now former, Ungdomshus. I am Sorry, but that is not the fact. […] The vast majority All to be used against the Police who, at bottom badge number which they are required to according most certain that if Vilhelm Vilhelmsson read his of those people are notorious cold blooded criminals line, just did their job – did what they were ordered to the law. According to the rules in Denmark, the article once again and having read my article, he trying to reach their goals with primitive methods, to do by the politicians. Police are, if asked, ONLY required to give name, might agree with me, when I say his article was very such as violence and vandalism.” Your statement Mr. Vilhelm Vilhelmsson describes himself as a rank, and duty station, (we are not required to give one-sided and not very neutral, which is a wrong shows an incredible lack of respect for logic and regular in the Ungdomshus. Then I would expect he our badge number for your information). approach in any article to be printed in a news contradicts your desire for a neutral discussion of would know just a little about what is also going on But the Police are NOT required to give out paper. what actually happened. Claiming that the thousands in connection to this, now former, Ungdomshus. this information to people under the influence of Afterall the readers of ‘The Grapevine’ deserve to who marched in support of the Ungdomshuset are Fast, reliable worldwide money transfer. One must NOT forget, that the Ungdomshus illegal substances and/or alcohol and/or violent or get another point of view of the whole Ungdomshus cold-blooded criminals is not only false, it is down- did NOT belong to the people that used the house. aggressive people. And I could suspect that there case and not just a one-sided and partial view from right stupid. They were occupying the house illegally, and since were a few people that day that would fall into one Vilhelm Vilhelmsson. It is not fair that the readers Your claim that “they hate everybody else that do they would not leave the house voluntarily, the Police of these categories. of The Grapevine might think that what Vilhelm not share their views upon the world” and your state- were told to clear the house. The house was sold to It could be the reason if some officers did not Vilhelmsson wrote in his article are the facts! Its ment: “they have taken away their own membership the religious organisation, Faderhuset. However, I give their name – I do not know – I was not there. If not facts – far from – and I truly think many of The card to the civilized, democratic world where most of do NOT sympathize with either group! Just to make it really happened, as said by Vilhelm Vilhelmsson. Grapevines readers also know that. us belong” are incredibly contradictory statements, that clear ! Vilhelm Vilhelmsson also wrote that it is a minor But NOT all ! be that as it may, the fact remains protesters have The people connected to Ungdomshuset were offence to put up posters on the streets in Copen- That is the reason, I wrote my article. One might human rights like the rest of us. ready to start a war and of course the Police had hagen but none the less it is a violation of the laws say that my article is one-sided too, but it is most You decide to add insult to injury by claiming that to be well prepared as well. I do not – of course in Denmark. And he also wrote that it might be a certain more in accordance to the facts compared never during this entire period did the Danish Police – sympathize with police brutality and if it really minor offence to comment on the behaviour of the to the article written by Vilhelm Vilhelmsson. overstep their boundaries. You act as though police happened, (as stated by Mr. Vilhelm Vilhelmsson), Police but if it is done in a humiliating/offending Reykjavik, the 14th of May 2007. brutality is entirely acceptable, if it ever happened. during the eviction of the house, the individual of- manner, it is also a violation to the Danish law. Like Obviously, it remains to be seen how much will ficers must be found and prosecuted. But honestly, it or not. Klaus W. Andreasson come out of the forthcoming trials over the Police I doubt that there were any, but you never know. I am not saying that the Danish Police are not Danisk police Officer officers in Copenhagen who have already been During the eviction of Ungdomshuset, some of making any mistakes, but claiming that the Danish [email protected] charged with brutality. You may recall the 2001 the autonomous people dragged innocent people police are a bunch of notorious people who, quote protests in Gothenburg, Sweden where a young out of their cars and put the cars on fire and pushed start: ‘beating up arrested individuals inside police protestor was shot in the back while running away them towards buildings in order to set them on fire vans where there were no witnesses, refusing to Editor’s Response from the Police. I fail to see how Danish Police too. Furthermore, they were demolishing public high give their name and badge number when asked, officers should differ so tremendously from their schools, local shops in the streets, and they put plastic (as they are required to by law), harassing anyone Dear Klaus, colleagues around Scandinavia when it comes to containers and, everything else they could find, on who looked remotely suspicious, videotaping and I believe your letter is the best possible confirma- Police brutality. fire on the streets of Copenhagen. photographing everyone walking the streets to build tion of why Vilhelmsson’s article needed to appear. I could go on and on… and on, pointing out all I am a police officer myself, and I served in a database of possible suspects, arresting people for Of course, Vilhelmson’s article was by no means a the ways in which your letter is wrong, but sadly I the Noerrebro area for about 7 years, and I know commenting on their, (the Police), behaviour, putting neutral account of what happened in Norrebro in don’t have the space to do it. Let it suffice to say a lot of what is really going on in connection with up posters or other harmless activities’, end of quote the days leading up to, and continuing after, the that you have proven exactly why people need to Ungdomshuset. They are not as described by Mr. by Vilhelm Vilhelmsson, is just ridiculous and shows closing of Ungdomshuset. The thing that strikes me read the Grapevine.

This exciting new multimedia exhibition tells the story from an island’s dramatic birth from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean through its forty year history to the current day – and beyond, glimpsing the future 120 years hence.

The exhibition explains the Government’s decision to submit an application to UNESCO to designate Surtsey a World Heritage Site.

SURTSEY – GENESIS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE

The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily 11-17. National Centre for Cultural Heritage Hverﬁ sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik Ticket gives admission to all exhibits at the Culture House including Medieval Manuscripts - Eddas and Sagas. Tel.: +354 545 1400, www.thjodmenning.is Adults 300,- Senior citizens 200,- Students and children free. Admission free Wednesdays. 24_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_SHOPPING Álafoss - outlet Álafossvegur 23 Þingvellir Mosfellsbær (C.a 16 km away from 1,600 ISK Reykjavík on the road Mosfellsbær GREEN Inside the small toy store Börn náttúrunnar you will find to Þingvellir) all kinds of carefully selected natural playthings that nurture the children’s imaginations. The Icelandic sheep Open: is one of many wooden animals that line the shelves and is handmade from Icelandic wood and wool. Mondays - Fridays Börn Náttúrunnar, Skólavörðustígur 17a, 101 9:00 - 18:00 Reykjavík Saturdays 9:00 - 16:00

Grafarvogur - Bridge - Grafarholt

Reykjavík

Álafoss

Laugavegur 1 Skólavörðustígur Reykjavík - City Center Laugavegur 2,690 / 2,350 / 2,632 ISK Dr.Hauschka cosmetics are produced from natural Open: ingredients and are therefore particularly suitable for In summer: sensitive skin. The bronzing powder will give your face a beautiful transparent colour, the Volume Mascara Every day Bankastræti contains beeswax and eyebright - a plant good for 9:00 - 22:00 treating eye irritation - while the lipstick gives your lips a beautiful colour while keeping them soft and moist. Yggdrasill, Skólavörðustígur 16, 101 Reykjavík In Winter: Lækjargata Mondays - Fridays Austurstræti 490 - 540 ISK 10:00 - 18:00 These “green” cotton socks are available at Green Ap- Saturdays ple. The cotton is produced without the use of chemi- 10:00 - 14:00 cals, making them 100% organic. The cream-coloured socks come in a range of sizes and lengths, including ankle socks. Green Apple, Laugavegur 20, 101 Reykjavík

Since 1896 Take the warmth with you!

Wool & Souvernir Shop www.alafoss.is Design: Sjáaldur auga míns 2006 / Photo: Hallgrímur Kristinsson ! & / 4 3 ! ' . ) 3 Æ , ' 5 ! .

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2,239 ISK 1,090 ISK 5,900 ISK Dr.Hauschka holistic skin care products are made Green Apple sells these organic and fair trade herbal from natural ingredients, organically grown herbs teas by Zhena’s Gypsy Teas. Sold as both bags and A good selection of educational toys produced by Grimm’s and wild plants that will nurture the skin and make CVijgVa=^hidgnBjhZjb leaves, the teas are packaged in decorative tins and Spiel & Holz Design are for sale at Börn náttúrunnar. This it healthier. At Yggdrasill you’ll find cleansing creams, come in a wide variety of flavours including: Red Lav- stacking rainbow is handmade and dyed with natural non- lotions and moisturising creams for your face and ender, Gypsy King Chai, Grand Green and Ambrosia toxic colours and can be used to create numerous objects like body as well hair products and protective sunscreen IZa/*,%%)(% White Plum. “For the gyspy at heart”. Currently on sale a bridge, flower or a tunnel. lotions with all natural minerals. at 20% discount. Börn Náttúrunnar, Skólavörðustígur 17a, 101 Reykjavík Yggdrasill, Skólavörðustígur 16, 101 Reykjavík lll#cVi`de#^h Green Apple, Laugavegur 20, 101 Reykjavík

Pay Attention! @deVkd\jg6giBjhZjb! Green Apple

Green Apple’s sign reads: Aromatherapy, Mas- the wrist when using the computer. The packs, sage oil, Bath oil, Romance. The tiny organic which can be put in the microwave to be used shop on Laugavegur sells a range of products as a heat pack or in the freezer to be used as a aimed at health and wellbeing. The selection cold pack, consist of brown rice, ginger, mint, includes massage and other relaxation products wansaolong, lemon balm and lemon grass. EjWa^XA^WgVgn such as: essential oils, bath products, oil burners, The 18-month-old addition to the down- steam vaporisers, as well as environmentally town shopping district sources most of its prod- IZa/*,%%)*% friendly laundry and cleaning products. Pack- ucts from an organic farm in Thailand. Store lll#Wd`VhV[c`deVkd\h#^h aged foods and drinks include herbal teas, soy owner Linda Friðriksdóttir, who swears by the products and wheat-free pastas. effectiveness of her products, says she opened ! &

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The store also stocks the Aromatic Herbal the store after getting sick herself. She found 4 3 ! ' . )

Pack range by Arose. The packs can be used it difficult to find chemical-free products which 3 Æ , ' 5 !

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for general relaxation or to improve blood cir- would help her to recover. “The drink and foods . . ) 2 ! 0 culation, muscle tension and spasms, back and in Iceland have a lot of additives [so] I started ! + 3 period pains, and migraines. The range includes to bring organic food produce to Iceland,” she (`b[gdbGZn`_Vk`8ZcigZ eye pillows, shoulder and back packs, and wrist said. For such a small store, this place offers a @eVkd\jg @deVkd\jg packs – placed on your mouse pad to support great range. 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_DESTINATIONS

Walking Trails Near Reykjavík Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photos by Gulli

Mt. Esja Mosfellsdalur Valley Þingvellir National Park

The 914 meter high Esja stands across from Reykjavík on the The suburban town Mosfellsbær sits on the outskirts of Reyk- Þingvellir, by Lake Þingvallavatn, is a historical place in Iceland. other side of Kollafjörður, the small cove by which the city javík City, at the bottom of the beautiful Mosfellsdalur valley. The site of Alþingi, one of the oldest parliamentary institu- is built. While technically not a mountain, rather a volcanic There are many intriguing walking treks around the valley, tions of the world. A national park since 1928, Þingvellir was mountain range, Reykjavíkian’s will invariably name it as their although two deserve a special attention. From the Laxness recently designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The favourite mountain in the country. Yes, such is foolish local museum in Gljúfrasteinn, the former home of Nobel Prize continental drift can clearly be seen in the cracks which traverse pride. Esja is a popular hiking spot for locals and travellers winning author and poet, Halldór Laxness, two marked trails the region. There are many trails around Þingvellir and Lake alike, and on a clear and sunny day, the view over Reykjavík go by the name ‘In the Path of the Poet.’ The trails will take Þingvallarvatn. Treks will take you along Almannagjá, Lögberg from the mountaintop is breathtaking and makes the relatively trekkers through some of the poet’s favourite spots; some of the cliff overlooking the place where the Alþingi (assembly), easy three-hour hike well worth the effort. which served as backdrops to the events in his epic novels. met and Drekkingarhylur (The Drowning Pool), where mothers of illegitimate children were drowned.

Mt. Hengill Mt. Bláfjöll Heiðmörk Park Hengill is an 803 meter high active volcano located between The Bláfjöll (Blue Mountains) mountain range is Reykjavík The natural reserve park, Heiðmörk, lies just outside Reykjavík. MAKE TÓPAS NOT WAR! Reykjavík and Þingvellir. The last volcanic eruption is believed City’s skiing resort, but the area is also full of exciting hiking Since 1949, Reykjavík’s Forestry Station has planted an estimat- to have been 2000 years ago, but numerous hot springs and treks. The old Reykjavegur trail, an old walking route from ed 50 million trees in the park. With a large recreational area, fumaroles still bear witness to the geothermal activity in the Reykjanes to Þingvellir, has been divided up to seven sections, the park is full of walking, jogging and biking trails between TÓPAS TO THE PEOPLE area. There are many interesting hiking trails in the area and each one being ideal for a day’s walk. Two sections of the old the small forests and beautiful lava formations. Within the informative signposts with geographical information have been Reykjavegur trail start and end in Bláfjöll: the 16 km Kaldársel park are Red Hills pseudo-craters, unique red lava formations added along the treks. Several huts are in the area, available for – Bláfjöll trek, between the mountain and the beautiful Haf- that are created when the hot lava crosses a wet surface and overnight stays or shorter stops free of charge. Hengill offers nafjörður lava fields; and the 20 km Bláfjöll – Hamragil trail. the steam explodes through the lava surface. Heiðmörk is all the visual excitement a trekker can expect in Iceland. The treks are marked and easily navigated. an ideal spot for romantic late night walks, family picnics or FREEDOM FIGHTERS cross-country running. ExperienceIce-land

Easy Glacier Adventures for Everyone Ice Climbing Ascension of Iceland’s Highest Peak Hot Spring Hike

Trekking and Backpacking Spör - Ragnheiður Ingunn Ágústsdóttir Icelandic Mountain Guides Booking and information: www.mountainguide.is - Tel: +354 587 9999 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_DESTINATION REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07_2007_MY FAVORITE SPOT_29

A Trip to an GREEN GREEN Eco-Village

Text by Páll Hilmarsson Photo by Gulli

An hour’s drive to the East of Reykjavík is the community of Sólheimar with around fifty houses, home to roughly one hundred persons. Sólheimar is the first intentional community in Iceland and the first Icelandic community to be a member of the Global Eco-Village Network. It was also the first place in the Nordic countries to cultivate food bio-dynamically. A young woman, Sesselja, who had a vision to treat handicapped people in better ways than cattle, founded the community in 1930. Drawing from Rudolf’s Steiner ideas and her own on how a human society should function, she started organic growing, allowed mentally handicapped children (or idiots as they were then called) to associate with “normal children”, and in the process upset a great number of people. Today the community is fairly accepted, although some minor disputes seem to flare up every now and again, mostly evolving around the spending of money, as always seems to be the case about disputes. In the community there are a few local run workplaces, a candle factory, organic nursery, arts and crafts store, coffeehouse and a small hotel. Handicapped or not, both work side by side in these workplaces, which are open to the public in the summertime. Sólheimar has a well thought out environmental policy under the “The walking path around motto: “We did not inherit the earth from our the cove in Grafarvogur is my ancestors - we borrowed it from our children.” One of the goals the Sólheimar community favourite place in Reykjavík. strives to achieve is to create a self-sustained It is a great place for jogging, society, relying on organic production and har- mony between humans and nature. In 2002 a inline skating or just to stroll completely self sustained house was built at around on a beautiful day in Sólheimar, Sesseljuhús, which houses an educational environmental center, with the house good company.” itself being the biggest part - a blueprint of sorts for buildings that are built without having Dofri Hermannsson is an actor and environmen- a negative impact on the environment. talist. He currently works as a Manager of the Parliamentary Party of the Social Democratic A visit to Sólheimar is a highly recommended Alliance. affair. It is a unique place and one that gives a hint of a different future than ever expanding, smog filled, detached cities. Check it out. www.solheimar.is, www.sesseljuhus.is

Fly and discover

NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland

Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK

FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA 30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 07 _2007_PARTING SHOT

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Enjoy every second of your stay by exploring the beauty of Iceland and taking advantage of our easy, safe and practical services in Iceland. +354 522 44 00 • www.hertz.is

Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir

The Emperor’s New Clothes? Photo by Gulli.

Classifieds Do you want to place a classified ad? Email [email protected]

for casual evening and weekend work. dholt for July and August and are looking Anything considered including cleaning, for one or two more 4 to 6 year old Grundarfjörður Hostel housekeeping, babysitting. English, Spanish or Indonesian speaking Ph 864 4994 children to help share costs and provide company. “Classroom” and outdoor Gesthús Dúna activities are planned. All very flexible, Suðurhlíð 35, please call to discuss. 105 Reykjavík David and Nenty, Tel: 864 4994, davidber- Tel: 5882100 / Fax: 5882102 [email protected] [email protected], [email protected] www.islandia.is/duna Stuff for Sale Reykjavik Maritime B&B ROOMS FROM 5.000.- Two students from Poland are looking for comfortable - affordable SLEEPNG BAG ACCOMMODATION a flat or room in a reasonable price to rent Central in Snæfellsnes Museum from August till December or even longer. Grandagarði 8 - Tel.: 517 9400 Guesthouse Móar Contact by mail: [email protected] Open this summer Móar 301 Akranes Financial 11 am - 5 pm Closed Mondays tel: 431-1389/897-5142 Independent Financial Advice for Expats e-mail: [email protected] I am a independent financial consultant 4 rooms, 9 beds + 2 summerhouses 1x1 specializing in wealth management; pen- [email protected] without bath 3000ISK sleeping bag acc. sion transfers;trust planning and general 2000ISK. financial services for expat English lan- www.hostel.is Cooking facilities available guage speakers. For a free no obligation consultation please ring Michael Doyle on +354-5626533 Flats/apartments/rooms needed (Copenhagen) 0045 41166358. Seeking apartment or room to rent/sublet/ Further details can be found on our web- +354-8956533 share near University of Iceland for August site www.grosvenorbell.com Bring THIS AD and and September. Friendly, responsible, non-smoking female professional. Need Dear Grapevine and its esteemed get 15% discount! a house-sitter? I can water your plants, readership, I am travelling to Iceland feed your cat. Contact by email: yaxford@ at the end of June and am planning a buffalo.edu sightseeing trip around the west fjords. I’m trying to find a travelling companion, Large quantities of vinyl records or companions, to do this with as I really Vinyl sale in Kolaportið flea market every don’t want to go it alone. My goal is to Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 - 17:00. spend 8-10 days thoroughly exploring DJ Lucky is downsizing his collection. Lots as much of the area as possible. I would of Jazz, Soul and Funk albums. prefer to travel by car, but my shoestring Job Needed budget precludes me from renting. Ide- Student from Poland is looking for a job Personals ally, I’d like to find someone with a car as a waiter, bartender, kitchen assistant Very attractive and sweet 45 year old to join me, with whom I would split fuel or any other from July(preferably in man in the United States seeks cute and costs. As far as I’m concerned, sleeping Reykjavik). I’ve already got experience loving woman, any age, with or without arrangements will be dictated by the from working in Iceland. Contact by mail: children, for love and fun. Chance of a circumstances at hand. I’m fine with [email protected] lifetime. Send only serious private replies anything from a guesthouse to a tent in directly to the middle of nowhere. Again, budget Looking for a job in Iceland. Contact [email protected] (and circumstances) would be the deter- Kundan Raj Mishra via email: mishrakr@ mining factor. If anyone is interested in gmail.com, or call 823-2814. Child Care joining me on this trip, please contact me We have arranged private child care for at [email protected]. Thank you. -John Hardworking, responsible woman looking our five year old son at our home in Brei- Evicci Dracut, MA, USA grapevine.is

ISSUE SEVEN: JUNE 01 - JUNE 14 YOUR FREE COPY

Stuffed with stuff At the present population level and with present technology, the planet can allow each human about 1.9 gha. Alex Elliott examines your ecological footprint. Page 10

Rather than being a pristine cradle of naturalness – as is commonly suggested – the National Park appears to be a place of cultivated naturality. Fabrizio Frascaroli visited Skaftafell and discovered an inherent flaw in environmental discourse. Page 16

“The ideological message is to personally illustrate that you can be an accountant and a yogi.” Bersteinn Jónsson offers ghetto yoga classes. Page 23

“Musically I felt mostly inspired by Wurlitzer Juke- box in the beginning.” Thomas Morr explains his fascination with music. Page 22

The band, being either valiant troopers or too deaf to hear that they’d lost their loud keyboards, continued their song before finally realizing that they had WINNER rocked too hard. Egils Lite, 2006 Gold Winner at the World Beer Cup and the Mondes Selection, Chandler Fredrick watched the Motion is the perfect blend of great taste and fewer calories. Boys blow out the sound system. Now available on tap. Page 36 Léttöl