Patchwork city Inside Valparaíso’s quirky kaleidoscope Frozen in time What turned the streets of this Moroccan city blue THE BEST AND DRINK IN SINGAPORE Enchanting Arizona SEPTEMBER ���8 The hallucinatory magic qantas.com/travelinsider of Antelope Canyon SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER ���8

THE WORLD 303 IN COLOUR qantas.com QNEWS.

First Bite New in town Akash Arora serves up Australia’s hottest new restaurants.

Squid ink fregola with frutti di mare at Matteo Downtown

Sydney Melbourne Sydney Melbourne

MATTEO DOWNTOWN LESA BRIX FUTURE FUTURE

Inspired by the raucous It might be located in the heart Primarily a craft rum distillery, The group behind Collingwood’s restaurants of Milan and Rome, of Melbourne but this new joint Brix is also home to a chilled- Congress restaurant has the team behind Matteo in is all about beating the bustle. out bar serving sensational transformed an art gallery into Double Bay has opened this A set four-course menu with fare by Colombian-born chef this 130-seat Japanese eatery. energetic all-day city eatery. choices such as semi-dried Ivan Sanchez (ex Bodega Expect a cup of house-blend Food Italian chef Orazio D’Elia is potato cacio e pepe served at and Porteño). Try the crisp iced tea on arrival, followed at the helm, with dishes such a relaxed pace will encourage tostadas laden with ceviche by chef Atsushi Kawakami’s as osso bucco with slowing down and savouring and the plantain chips with menu of donburi rice bowls and risotto and squid ink fregola. good food and wine. picante. izakaya-style light meals.

Select from a 300-bottle “wine The wine list is a compelling More than 150 rums from You’ll find a concise list of wall” containing everything mix of Old World gems and around the world, a good beers, sakes, wines and from bold reds to crisp white Australian drops produced selection of Australian wines whiskies, with a strong

varietals or sample small-batch with minimal intervention. Drinks and craft beers, plus an array emphasis on natural and Italian liquors and craft beers. of rum-based cocktails. biodynamic varieties.

The dining room is intimate yet An open kitchen with Occasional splashes of colour There’s a bar, two distinctive lively, with an open kitchen, a large woodfired hearth is at and paintings by local artist dining spaces (light and airy or

while the bar area features the centre of the laid-back Space Nico Nicoson punctuate the more moody), private dining and 44 striking artworks. dining room. industrial concrete interiors. a courtyard with a relaxed vibe.

Smack bang in the middle Melbourne’s CBD, above A minute’s walk from In Melbourne’s Richmond, of Sydney’s CBD. the wine bar Embla. The Beresford in Surry Hills. about 20 minutes’ drive from the CBD. Location

20 Bond Street, Sydney Level 2, 122 Russell Street, 191 Swan Street, Richmond matteosydney.com Melbourne lesarestaurant.com.au 352 Bourke Street, Surry Hills futurefuture.com.au Open Monday-Friday for Open Thursday-Friday for brixdistillers.com Open Friday-Sunday for breakfast and lunch and lunch and Wednesday-Saturday Open seven days for lunch lunch and Wednesday-Saturday Details Monday-Saturday for dinner for dinner and dinner for dinner Kai Leishman Kai

034 qantas.com/travelinsider QUISINE.

Reviews What’s new Our monthly guide to exciting openings, upgraded offerings and changing chefs. Kristoffer PaulsenKristoffer

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Hong Kong Sara (sara-hk.com) brings the food of Japan’s Saga Wan Chai glamourpuss Pirata (pirata.hk) marries prefecture to a simply styled izakaya in Causeway Bay. a fit-out of industrial metalwork and chandeliers with Expect plenty of grilled and simmered dishes as well rugged Italian greatest hits such as , calamari as the famous Saga Wagyu . fritti and beef carpaccio. Nonna would approve.

170 qantas.com/travelinsider KEY

NEW RESTAURANT NEW CHEF NEW MENU

NEW CAFÉ NEW BAR NEW LOOK

VIC fried puck of porcine goodness LARISSA DUBECKI larded with chicken jus so explosively juicy it comes with ↓ a warning from the waiter. NATURAL HISTORY It’s thoroughly deserving of BAR & GRILL the accolades – but then so is the kangaroo done -style, 401 Collins Street, Melbourne the richly salty strips cut with (03) 9982 1811 naturalhistory a sweet-leaning cultured cream barandgrill.com.au Open and served with a rubble of fried Thursday-Friday for lunch and . And the brussels sprouts, Tuesday-Saturday for dinner the zero-turned-hero vegetable Come for the taxidermy, paired with an umami bomb stay for the steak. That’s of sunflower and capers. the take-home message from This sleek, hyper-modern little this vast New York-style grill spot anchoring a new apartment in the heart of Collins Street’s block is so much more than business district, where you a residents’ pit stop: it’s a new can dine under the watchful Melbourne must-do. gaze of stuffed ibexes, peacocks and foxes. Uncannily, it’s as if ↓ a natural history museum ran CARLTON WINE ROOM headlong into Grand Central Station’s oyster bar – so get 172-174 Faraday Street, Carlton with the program and order (03) 9347 2626 thecarlton a dozen freshly shucked, chase wineroom.com.au Open them down with half a kilogram Thursday-Monday for lunch and of dry-aged rib eye and finish Wednesday-Monday for dinner with a Martini at the bar. Don An overnight success story Draper would give it the nod. seven years in the making, Carlton Wine Room – CWR to ↓ its friends – has gone from CONGRESS understudy to full-blown star thanks to the arrival of new Corner Peel and Wellington Streets, owners, a trio of restaurant Collingwood (03) 9068 7464 veterans finally joining forces. congresswine.com.au Open John Paul Twomey, a long-time roast chicken that effortlessly Congress, home of the Friday-Saturday for lunch and Andrew McConnell lieutenant, reaches Melbourne’s vertiginous pig’s head sanga (above); Monday-Saturday for dinner is behind a menu that bears standards, with golden skin potato with It calls itself a wine bar hallmarks of his time as Cutler and a drinkable jus. The wine stracciatella, zucchini but Congress has burst & Co. head chef. There are list mixes skin-contact and and chive oil at Carlton out of the Collingwood starting dishes you can call “produce more traditional drops, with Wine Room (opposite) blocks with a dish that has driven” without blushing, such sage advice dispensed by “instant cult classic” written all as an opening salvo of potato wine maestros and co-owners over it. We’re talking about the focaccia with stracciatella, Andrew Joy and Travis Howe. pig’s head sanga with poached mussels with a herby Little wonder it’s been crammed

Kristoffer PaulsenKristoffer mayo, starring a breaded and and garlicky or a half since day one of the new regime.

Singapore Circa 1912 (03-07/11 Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Road; +65 Go the burn at Qi – House of Sichuan (qi-sichuan.hk), 6836 3070) is on a mission to revive “lost” Cantonese a Michelin-starred Hong Kong import bringing its dishes and techniques, including hand-chopped fiery braised grouper in chilli oil and bang bang fillings and artisanal ingredients. chicken to Marina Bay.

qantas.com/travelinsider 171 QUISINE.

WA ↓ ↓ MAX VEENHUYZEN OFFSHOOT COFFEE WINE ROOMS BY HARVEY LEIGH’S Hibernian Place, 480 Hay Street, ↓ HADIQA Perth Open Monday-Friday for 484 Beaufort Street, Highgate breakfast and lunch (08) 6478 0920 harveyleighs.com Hibernian Place, 40 Irwin Street, Perth The Mary Street Bakery Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and (08) 6277 0387 hadiqa.com.au crew has opened a micro- Wednesday-Sunday for dinner Open Monday-Friday for lunch roastery and takeaway café The Stables offers A cosy, Provence-inspired and Monday-Saturday for dinner stocking , cruffins a slick new dine-at bar bistro and wine bar by one Home to the city’s first (a and muffin hybrid), in Paddington (below); of Australia’s best sommeliers, Westin hotel (and Guy pies and other baked treats pipis with white wine Dan Wegener, Wine Rooms by Grossi’s ), Hibernian synonymous with the Mary and at Surry Harvey Leigh’s is a new 55-seater Place has expanded the eating Street name. Hills’ Ortzi (opposite) with the same deep focus on and drinking options in the grapes that Wegener brought city’s east end. Serial publican to Quay (Sydney) and Print Andy Freeman (Varnish on Hall (Perth), only the vibe is King, The Flour Factory) has more fun dining than fine. opened Hadiqa, a Moroccan- While pinot and chardonnay inspired rooftop restaurant and fans go gaga over the wine list, bar doing a fine trade in mezze young Provençal import Loic and Levantine-accented drinks: Sorbier keeps things fuss-free think , cauliflower salad and tasty in the kitchen. “Bread flavoured with , & ” (charcuterie, and a heady Old Fashioned (on , pickles) and a basket of the drinks list here as a Spiced salty, porky treats are the stuff Old Moroccan). of wine-snacking dreams, while cabbage parcels stuffed ↓ with pork and carrot are typical ARTHUR & CO. of the more substantial stuff. Dessert? Do it – the tarte Tatin Hibernian Place, 480 Hay Street, Perth with praline and (08) 9325 4886 arthurandco.com.au ice-cream is pure comfort. Open Monday-Friday for breakfast and lunch and Monday-Saturday for dinner NSW Journeyman chef Graham ANTHONY HUCKSTEP Arthur lends his name and bowerbird cooking approach ↓ to all-day diner Arthur & Co. LITTLE BISTRO Come along in the morning for house-baked ; return 52 King Street, Sydney (02) 9114 7365 after dark for craft beer and merivale.com Open Monday- thoughtfully chosen wines Friday for lunch and dinner with beef cheek or crisp There are few more school prawns and whitebait deeply satisfying dining with burnt onion aioli. experiences than seeing the

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San Francisco Stonemill Matcha (stonemillmatcha.com) is catnip for Savour the taste of the Pacific Northwest at Birdsong lovers of the ingredient du jour, with a menu stopping (birdsongsf.com), where chef Chris Bleidorn’s menus at all stations from matcha affogato to shokupan honour traditional techniques and small producers. toast with matcha and red jam. Our tip: grab a seat overlooking the kitchen.

172 qantas.com/travelinsider classics wonderfully executed: a rich and creamy cassoulet, tuna carpaccio or a fine apple tart with a perfect quenelle of Chantilly. At Little Bistro, a pop-up dining room on the first floor of Hotel CBD, one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs, Alastair Little, provides a much-needed boost to the French-cum-British-inspired bistro scene in the heart of the city. The room is classic black and white with dark timber chairs and the service has an ageless, eccentric character. There’s no groundbreaking gastronomy here. Instead, Little Bistro delivers tried- and-true recipes to warm your cockles and have you coming back for more. Witness the velvety chicken liver pâté bolstered by a tangy onion marmalade; the new-season mussels popped open in a white wine, chilli and parsley broth; and confit duck, pork belly, and white in renovation. Sandstone exterior broth with artichoke purée championing of local produce what’s perhaps the city’s walls, large windows, polished provide a complex base for – somewhat similar to our own best cassoulet. concrete floors, warm timbers, John Dory fillets. food culture. But that has all leather upholstery and a smart changed with the opening of ↓ dine-at bar set the scene for ↓ Ortzi. From the team behind THE STABLES young gun chef Thomas Gripton ORTZI Italian heart-throb Sagra comes (Bentley, Restaurant Hubert) an electric and engaging look 1 Victoria Street, Paddington and a menu that promotes 6 Hunt Street, Surry Hills at the area’s unique southern (02) 9360 0098 thestables Australian produce without (02) 9211 2414 ortzi.com.au French and northern Spanish restaurant.com.au Open overcomplicating things on Open Friday-Saturday for lunch food, via Australia’s stunning Thursday-Sunday for lunch and the plate. Grab a drink from the and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner seasonal ingredients. In a smart, Tuesday-Sunday for dinner bar then saddle up for butter- Diners may be able to up-and-down space with white In a Paddington laneway, poached lobster in a jus. eat almost every cuisine walls, black chairs and concrete where horses were once Charred corn purée provides on the planet here in Sydney bar, guests peer down from the groomed, fed and bred, you’ll a sweet, smoky bed for confit but there’s never been a strong mezzanine while others wrap now find people putting on octopus. yoghurt and representation from the Basque their laughing gear around the feedbag. The Stables is yet ribbons of bring a g00d region. That’s surprising, given a sea of snacks and share plates. another of Sydney’s old sites balance to rich, unctuous pork its farm-to-plate ethos, the Start with pintxos of jamon given new life in a stunning jowl. Smoked eel and carrot simplicity 0f the cookery and Iberico, white anchovies

Cape Town Bao Down (3 Vredehoek Avenue, Oranjezicht; +27 66 A Parisian-style café by day and bistro by night, 022 1165) gives the food of China, Korea and Japan The Moveable Feast (themoveablefeast.co.za) a modern spin while ticking the essential boxes of twirls its moustache with Gallic charm over onion bao buns, prawn toast and . soup, beef tartare and moules frites.

qantas.com/travelinsider 173 QUISINE.

and ajo blanco (bread and RAKU tour through his offerings almond soup). The raciones is immaculately presented include calamari and kipflers Shop DG36C, Canberra Centre, Bunda every step of the way. Want or tuna and red pepper, while Street, Canberra (02) 6248 6869 to venture off on your own? sand whiting with smoked rakudining.com.au Open seven The salty pop of orange endive and skirt steak with days for lunch and dinner atop Tasmanian salmon tartare romesco star in the platos. This swish Japanese sets the scene amid the black Take a bunch of your friends, restaurant is more than Zach Green brings and bamboo décor. Next, order lots of dishes and jump cutting-edge; it’s as sharp as Indigenous flavours try the kingfish with finely into a Spanish wine or two a yanagi knife. Sydney chef to Darwin diners chopped red onion and truffle as well. Hao Chen, who recently moved (below); kingfish or tender duck fat to Canberra, has created an sashimi with truffle confit tebasaki (chicken wings) eponymous 11-course tasting yuzu sauce at Raku, on miso butter – itself a sake- ACT menu and the tantalising Canberra (opposite) infused, wondrously smoky DIANA STREAK creation that stars in a number of dishes. Japanese whisky fans ↓ have a copious list to indulge in VAPIANO and those with a sweet tooth will want to order The Zen Shop DG02, Canberra Centre, Bunda Stone, a citrusy concoction Street, Canberra (02) 6113 0680 of chocolate crunch, joconde vapiano.com.au Open seven and kalamansi ganache. days for lunch and dinner Sometimes, it’s the simple things in life that make NT you feel in control – like a little SAM McCUE pot of on your table. Pick a few (or more) leaves to add ↓ to an insanely good insalata ELIJAH’S KITCHEN caprese made with generous hunks of mozzarella and Vesteys Beach, Darwin 0417 919 -drenched crostini. 654 elijahskitchen.com Open This joint is popular with the Thursday-Sunday for dinner lunchtime throng, who love (until October) the voluptuous, contemporary In Elijah’s Kitchen, Italian fare. Mix-and-match Darwin finally has an pasta and pizza dishes include answer to the question of plenty of yummy vegetarian where in this city to enjoy an options such as glorious authentic Indigenous dining rosso or di funghi. But experience. Zach Green and carnivores, worry not: decadent, Leila Gurruwiwi, partners in bacon-spiked lasagne and life and business, have created will please the most a magical pop-up by the sea, -loving palate. Playful sharing local produce and cocktails and Riot wine on tap Indigenous ingredients through add to the convivial mood. well-executed dishes such as ↓ dry-aged buffalo scotch with

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Tokyo Out (out.restaurant) keeps things disarmingly simple: Nordic-Japanese cuisine and a partnership with the it serves only one dish (fresh pasta with truffle) and famed Noma restaurant in Denmark have combined a single drink (a robust red) to a soundtrack of one to make Inua (inua.jp) the hottest spot in Tokyo – and artist (Led Zeppelin). Only in Tokyo… yes, René Redzepi will be popping in a few times a year.

174 qantas.com/travelinsider pepperberry sauce, grilled stingray salad with chilli and mango or crocodile . Speaking of crocs, Green might just emerge from the kitchen to share how baru got his scales or one of the other ancient stories behind his ingredients, as Gurruwiwi warmly manages front of house. Finish up with rosella panna cotta or the luscious, not-too-sweet green ant , depending on that night’s menu. Be quick before this dry-season BYO pop-up closes for the year.

QLD MORAG KOBEZ

↓ ITALIAN FOOD RESTAURANT

36 Mein Street, Spring Hill 0421 981 882 italianfoodrestaurant.com.au Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch The pasta and grains section THREE BLUE DUCKS Sydney’s Bronte. Fear not, that and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner is short and sweet, with one dedication to honest yet exciting, When their quirky, and a single pasta dish Level 3, 81 North Quay, Brisbane sustainably sourced ingredients contemporary Chinese (although this changes). The (07) 3556 8833 threeblueducks.com translates beautifully to the restaurant, Happy Boy, outgrew latter is a handful of delicate, Open seven days for breakfast, lunch Queensland capital. After a stint its industrial-chic warehouse handmade tortelli with silky and dinner in the woodfired oven, whole digs and moved to Fortitude pumpkin, crisp sage, amaretti, There are now actually fish of the day comes with chilli, Valley, the Votan brothers currants and parmesan. The four Three Blue Ducks coconut brown rice and the fresh opened this casual Italian diner seafood options include grilled dotted along the east coast, flavours of lemongrass and lime. in its place. They applied the squid stuffed with prawn and with the latest landing in the The coal pit and grill delivers same simple, sassy approach served scattered with pickled W Brisbane hotel in the heart the simple pleasure of Moreton that made hits of both Happy and orange, as well as of the city. The vast 156-seater Bay bugs with charred cavolo Boy and their third venue, the a hearty stew. The Votans has minimalist, neutral-hued nero and XO butter. There are French-inspired Greenglass. maintain their tradition of décor and sweeping views fruity cocktails, a wine list The brief menu stars a deeply unearthing great wine from across the river to the cultural featuring low-intervention, satisfying bruschetta of charred small Australian vineyards, precinct, courtesy of floor-to- organic and biodynamic garlic toast topped with ’nduja, with a painstaking collection ceiling windows. It’s a long options, plus Brisbane’s creamy stracciatella, basil and of local, Italian-style vinos. way from the chilled coastal favourite craft beers on tap. ribbons of pickled onion. ↓ vibe of the original restaurant in SA

Shanghai Together (546 Yuyuan Lu, near Zhenning Lu, Jing’an Wine bar Bird (50 Wuyuan Lu, near Changshu Lu, district; +21 5299 8928) takes an Asian-French fusion Xuhui district; +135 0172 6412) brings a rotating menu and comes up trumps with dishes such as unagi to just 20 punters at a time, with global snacks and (freshwater eel) on cucumber with truffle. share plates and a list of natural wines.

qantas.com/travelinsider 175 BAY32698B1 2018-07-27T13:16:35+08:00

Visit Faro at Mona for raw vegetables with manchego, mint ice, citrus powder and pine nuts, plus a Bloody Berry cocktail

NIGEL HOPKINS JO COOK

↓ ↓ RED OCTOBER FARO

22 Gilbert Place, Adelaide 655 Main Road, Berriedale Our cars aren’t sexy. (08) 8212 2938 redoctober.bar (03) 6277 9904 mona.net.au Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner Open Wednesday-Monday for But our rates are. No, nothing to do with dinner (bar open for museum visitors the submarine movie – Wednesday-Monday from 11am) this new addition to Adelaide’s Accessed through the CBD was inspired by a Moscow Museum of Old and New chocolate factory-turned- Art (Mona) or after hours via creative hub of that name. Its a maze of construction (for new Russian owners have managed gallery spaces), this stunning to avoid their country’s culinary bar, lounge and dining room clichés, conjuring up modern has water views and tonnes of versions of some of its best space thanks to a 13-metre-high dishes. Many of them feature ceiling. Dine among works by in-house picklings, ferments light artist James Turrell and sip and baking – notably delicious on “unholy waters” such as Ye borodinsky sourdough rye. Almighty Martini (cold-smoked Start with the crisp, deep- gin, honey, vermouth) – perfect fried pork and with oysters, fino mignonette COROLLA $17* | RAV4 $34* with and salmon pearls or mountain TARAGO $73* A DAY sour cream or venison carpaccio pepper and kunzea marinated with fermented mustard and olives with wattleseed * 7 day rate. Conditions apply. N/A school holidays. narsharab sauce. shortbread. Move on to kingfish Larger choices include ajika ceviche with celeriac , pork, a terrific Georgian-style Avruga caviar and sheep’s milk PERTH AIRPORT LINK (08) 6467 0400 dish of crisp-skinned pork yoghurt. Larger plates include belly laced with a fiery seared koji wallaby with pickled BAYSWATER | FREMANTLE | PERTH mix, served with julienned and Pedro Ximénez. SUBIACO | KEWDALE celeriac and fennel, fresh For dessert, try apple parfait and turnip purée. with cider and green tea. SYDNEY AIRPORT LINK (02) 9360 3622 TAS SYDNEY CITY | ARTAMON | MASCOT

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