IMT Institute for Advanced Studies Lucca Lucca, Italy Implications of Legal Protection and Quality Management of the Traditional Regional Food Heritage in the EU The Case of a PDO Oscypek Cheese from Southern Poland PhD Program in Management and Development of Cultural Heritage XXVI Cycle By Magdalena Jarosik 2015 To Zoe The dissertation of Magdalena Jarosik is approved. Program Coordinator: Emanuele Pellegrini IMT Institute for Advanced Studies Lucca Supervisor: Lorenzo Casini La Sapienza Università di Roma Co-Advisor: Maria Luisa Catoni IMT Institute for Advanced Studies Lucca The dissertation of Magdalena Jarosik has been reviewed by: Prof. Stefano Baia Curioni, Università Commerciale Luigi Bocconi Prof. Mark Thatcher, London School of Economics IMT Institute for Advanced Studies Lucca 2015 Table of Contents VII List of Figures XII Vita XIII Publications XIV Abstract XV Chapter 1: Introduction 1 1.1. Background Information 1 1.2. Literature Review 3 1.3. Scope of the Thesis 10 1.4. Aims and Justification of the Study 12 1.5. Research Questions and Methodology 14 1.6. Disposition of Chapters 16 Chapter 2: Conceptual Framework for Food Heritage and its Legal Protection in the EU 19 2.1. Food Heritage Concept 19 2.1.1. Material Cultural Heritage Framework for Food Heritage 23 2.1.2. Food as Cultural Object and Its Linkages with Social World - Cultural Diamond Model 26 2.1.3. Recognition of Cities of Gastronomy within the UNESCO Creative Cities Network 28 2.1.4. UNESCO Cities of Gastronomy 32 vii 2.2. Examples of Regional Culinary Trails in the EU 39 2.2.1. Examples of Organization of Regional Culinary Trails in Poland 41 2.2.2. Specification of the Oscypek Heritage Trail in Southern Poland 49 2.2.3. Chosen Examples of Cheese-related Culinary Trails in the EU 55 2.3. Intangible Cultural Heritage Framework for Food Heritage 68 2.3.1. Recognition of Foods and Culinary Traditions within UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Framework 72 2.3.2. The Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage 74 2.3.3. Food-related Traditions Inscribed on the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage 78 2.4. Development of Culinary Tourism 104 2.4.1. Culinary Tourism Development in Poland 111 2.4.2. Creating Authentic Gastronomic Experiences for Tourists 113 Chapter 3: The EU General Food Law and Agricultural Quality Schemes 118 3.1. Food Safety Priorities in the Era of Globalization 118 3.1.1. The Main Objectives of the EU Common Agricultural Policy 121 3.2. Evolution of the EU Food Law 125 3.2.1. Green Paper on the EU Food Law 128 3.2.2. White Paper on Food Safety 131 3.2.3. Principles and Requirements of the EU General Food Law 134 viii 3.2.4. Establishment of the European Food Safety Authority 144 3.2.5. Principle of Mutual Recognition 148 3.3. Geographical Indications as Tools for Safeguarding Food Heritage 153 3.3.1. EU Agricultural Quality Policy 154 3.3.2. EU Legal Framework for the Agricultural Product Quality 156 3.3.3. A Collection of Geographical Indications Cases 170 3.4. Gastronomic Diversity versus Safety of Food in the EU 184 3.4.1. Local Food as a Potential New Safety Paradigm 184 3.4.2. Traditional Regional Foods as Expressions of Regional Diversity and Individuality of the European Regions 187 3.5. Interactions and Interferences between National and Community Laws Related to Food Safety and Quality 195 3.5.1. When a GI Conflicts with Safeguarding of Food Heritage 198 Chapter 4: Oscypek Cheese and Oscypek Heritage Trail in Poland 201 4.1. Historical Context of ICH Treatment on Poland 205 4.2. Culinary Heritage and Regional Tastes Management – Polish Regional Product Contest 218 4.3. European Cheeses Protected within the PDO Geographical Indications Quality Scheme 225 4.4. Oscypek Cheese and Importance of Wallachian Cheeses in the Polish Highlander Cultures 230 4.4.1. Oscypek Cheese as a Protected Designation of Origin 233 ix 4.4.2. Oscypek Cheese as a Cultural Object and Its Linkages with the Polish Highlander Communities 235 4.5. Particularities of a PDO Oscypek Cheese Protection within the EU Quality Schemes 238 4.5.1. Regions of Oscypek Production and Oscypek-related Heritage Trails 240 4.5.2. The Making of Oscypek Cheese 244 4.6. Monitoring Process and Controls of the PDO Oscypek Cheese 248 4.7. Implications and Impact of the GI Status and EU Protection on Oscypek Cheese and its Producers – Field Research 255 4.7.1. Interviews with Oscypek Producers 257 4.7.2. Results of the Interviews with Oscypek Producers 259 4.7.3. Interviews with Representatives of Chosen Responsible Authorities on Local, Regional and National Levels 263 4.8. SWOT Analysis for Sustainable Development of Oscypek-making Tradition as an Intangible Heritage Practice and a PDO 271 Chapter 5: Conclusion 277 5.1. Conclusion on UNESCO Frameworks for Tangible and Intangible Heritage Pertaining to Food Heritage 279 5.2. Conclusions on the EU Safety Regulations 281 5.3. Conclusions on the EU Agricultural Quality Schemes 282 5.4. Recommendations for the Producers Regarding Future Preservation and Sustainable Development of Oscypek-making Tradition 284 x 5.5. Two Approaches Toward Sustainable Development of Oscypek- making Tradition 291 5.6. Recommendations for Relevant Authorities on Regional and National Levels 293 5.7. Final Conclusions 296 Annex: Transcript of Interviews with Randomly Chosen Oscypek Producers from around Nowy Targ (Spisz Region) 300 Bibliography 324 xi List of Figures Figure 1: The Inter-Relationships of Gastronomy in Construction of Culinary Heritage 25 Figure 2: Cultural Diamond Model 27 Figure 3: Poster of the Oscypek Heritage Trail 47 Figure 4: Map of the Oscypek Heritage Trail around Nowy Targ 48 Figure 5: Application Procedure for a GI Registration 165 Figure 6: List of Cheeses with Registered PDO Status 227-228 Figure 7: List of Published Cheeses before Registration 229 Figure 8: List of Most Recent Cheese Applications for a PDO 229 Figure 9: Regions of Oscypek Cheese Production in Southern Poland 240 Figure 10: Flowchart of Manufacturing and Ripening Stages of a PDO Oscypek Cheese 246 Figure 11: SWOT Analysis for Oscypek Cheese-making Tradition Development 274 xii Vita June 8, 1982 Born in Krakow, PL 2002-2005 BA, Journalism and Social Communication Jagiellonian University Krakow, PL 2006 Postgraduate diploma in Public Relations Tischner European University Krakow, PL 2007-2009 MA, Euroculture: Europe in Wider World University of Groningen, T Jagiellonian University, Krakow, PL University of Osaka, Japan 2010-2011 Program Assistant, International Cultural Centre in Krakow, Department of Education Krakow, PL 2012-2013 Doctoral Support Program Fellow Central European University Budapest, HU 2011-2015 PhD in Management and Development of Cultural Heritage IMT Institute for Advanced Studies Lucca Lucca, IT xiii Publications “Does Central-European Identity Exist? Central Europe as a State of Mind”. Conference paper presented at Intensive Program “European Heritages and Collective Memories”, Krakow, 2008 “Saving the Past to the Future. The Case of Lady with an Ermine by Leonardo da Vinci from the Princes Czartoryski Museum in Krakow, Poland”. PREDELLA n.30, 2011 xiv Abstract Food safety and quality in the EU has been a widely discussed topic since the creation of the European Single Market. The way of food from the production place to the plates of consumers became increasingly longer and complicated, providing more chances of food contamination by hazardous substances and bacteria. This poses a potential threat to peoples’ health and appropriate legal measures needed to be taken in order to protect both health and other interests of consumers. Currently, locally produced food from locally-grown products is believed to be a healthier and safer alternative to the mass- produced food goods. This idea, together with the growing interest in food and nutrition studies, regional cultures, local folklore, as well as dynamic development of gastronomic tourism, gave rise to the popularity of traditional regional foods as authentic, safe, natural, and high quality expressions of regional gastronomic heritage. Within this framework, the research investigates in what ways EU legal food safety and quality regulations may impact the safeguarding of gastronomic heritage of the European regions. Through an interdisciplinary analysis, it analyzes what are the potential interferences between the EU Food Safety regulations, the EU Quality Schemes for Agricultural Products (particularly considering the Protected Designation of Origin), and UNESCO frameworks for tangible and intangible heritage. The main question to answer is if a GI may conflict with food heritage protection, in what ways it impacts the producers and the protected product itself, and if this is what is currently happening in case of a PDO oscypek cheese from Southern Poland. Through qualitative in-depth interviews with oscypek producers and relevant authorities on local, regional and national levels, this analysis provides an overview of dynamics within highlander community and attitudes toward the impact of a GI status on future of this touristic product and intangible practice. The research is concluded with recommendations for future development for production, management and promotion of this culturally significant food heritage and tradition. xv Chapter 1: Introduction 1.1. Background Information Food can be studied from many different perspectives. Food studies deal with the examination of food and its contexts within variety of disciplines, such as: science, art, history, philosophy, history, sociology, art history, anthropology, and others. Food also belongs to the worlds of ecology, economy and culture. Preparation and consumption of particular traditional foods are among the most important cultural practices in creating social identities of communities. Food has a significant expressive power and an implicit social meaning going beyond its nutritive function.