Product Design GCSE Revision Pack January 2017

Name: ______Form: ______Subject: Textiles Teacher: Mrs Neep

Areas to revise: Smart and Modern Materials Renewable Energy Sources Comparing Traditional and Modern Products Trouser Suits and Ossie Clarke Specifications and Designs What to expect: •1 and a half hours long •There are two parts to the exam; section A and section B •Each section is worth 30 marks Section A: •Spend no more than 45 minutes on this section •There are three questions, worth 10 marks each •These are broken down into (a) (b) (c) etc. •These are general Product Design questions •Each one starts with a picture, but some of the questions are not relevant to the picture •The number of marks for each part is shown in brackets

Section B •Spend no more than 45 minutes on this section •You may choose to do this section first •This will be very similar to the real GCSE exam in June •You will be marked on SPAG for the essay question (question 4a) •You must select the “Trouser Suits” and “Ossie Clark” questions Smart materials: BBC Bitesize Smart materials have properties that react to changes in their environment. This means that one of their properties can be changed by an external condition, such as temperature, light, pressure or electrici- ty. This change is reversible and can be repeated many times. There are a wide range of different smart materials. Each offer different properties that can be changed. Shape-memory alloys

For most materials, if they are bent out of shape, they stay that way. Howev- er, if a part made from a shape-memory alloy (SMA) is bent out of shape, when it is heated above a certain temperature it will return to its original shape. This property makes it useful for making spectacle frames - they return to their original shape if they are put in hot water after bending them. SMAs are used as triggers to start the sprinklers in fire alarm systems, con- trollers for hot water valves in showers or coffee machines and for spectacle frames. Piezoelectric materials When a piezoelectric material is squeezed rapidly, it produces a small electrical voltage for a moment. If a voltage is put across the material it makes a tiny change in shape. Piezoelectric materials are being used for contact sensors for alarm systems and in microphones and head- phones. Quantum-tunnelling composite Quantum-tunnelling composite (QTC) is a flexible polymer which contains tiny metal particles. It is normally an insulator but if it is squeezed it becomes a conductor. QTC can be used to make membrane switches like those used on mobile phones, pressure sensors and speed controllers. Electroluminescent materials Electroluminescent materials give out light when an electric current is applied to them. Among many pos- sible applications are safety signs and clothing for use at night. Colour-change materials

Thermochromic materials change colour as the temperature changes. These are used on contact thermometers made from plastic strips and test strips on the side of batteries (where the heat comes from a resistor under the thermochromic film). They are also used as food packaging materials that show you when the product they contain is cooked to the right temperature. Photochromic materials change colour according to different lighting condi- tions. They are used for security markers that can only be seen in ultraviolet light. Modern, smart and combination fabrics Modern and smart fabrics are designed to maximise characteristics such as lightness, breathability, water- proofing etc, or to react to heat or light. They are usually manufactured using microfibres. Some key modern fabrics and their properties

Technology Properties End use

Microfibre Woven polyester  lightweight  raincoats  soft  active sportswear  good drape  fashion clothing  breathable  shower-proof

Polar fleece  brushed poly-  lightweight  fleece jumpers and ester  soft jackets  warp knit  breathable  blankets  warm

Gore-Tex Laminated mem-  breathable All-weather jackets and brane shoes  lightweight  waterproof

Micro- Different micro-  gives off an aromatic  underwear encapsulated capsules embed- ded in the fibre or scent  anti-bacterial socks fabric  can reduce body  medical textiles odour  can provide vitamins or reduce skin irritation

Heat sensitive Thermochromic Micro-encapsulated dye  children's clothes can change colour in response to heat (lasts  sports clothing for 5-10 washes)  firefighters' clothing  wound dressings

Light sensitive Photochromic dyes Smart pigments change  T-shirts colour in response to sunlight  military clothing

Combination fabrics Fabrics can be layered and combined to improve their handle, appearance or performance. For example:  An interfacing fabric such as Vilene can be stitched or laminated to other fabrics. This reinforces, stiffens and gives strength to collars and cuffs to prevent the fabric from stretching or sagging.  A quilted fabric has two or more layers sewn together to give an attractive appearance and added warmth.  Gore-Tex can be laminated to another fabric using adhesive or heat. Gore-Tex is used for all- weather clothing and shoes because it is breathable and waterproof.  Kevlar is a high-strength, lightweight and flexible fibre. It is used in bicycle tyres, racing sails and police bullet-proof vests because of its high strength-to-weight ratio.  Thinsulate is a highly insulating but thin fabric. The microfibres in Thinsulate are fine and capture more air in less space, making it a better insulator. It traps air between the wearer and the outside. It can be machine washed and dry cleaned, and is breathable as well as moisture resistant. Scuba divers wear a Thinsulate suit under a dry suit when diving in cold water. Smart and Modern Materials Revision

Properties Name of Some uses Material Waterproof, wind- Phospho- Thermometers, proof and breath- rescent baby drinks cups able material Pigment & spoons, novelty mugs Changes colour in Photo- Outdoor adven- UV light chromic ture wear, wa- Pigment terproof jackets Heat resistant, Thermo- Face masks in very strong chromic hospitals, antibac- Pigment terial socks Synthetic rubber Kevlar Wetsuits and lap- which is flexible top cases and a good insula- tor Glows in the Dark Gore-tex Bullet proof vests, motor cycle hel- mets Microscopic Neoprene Reaction lenses, chemical sub- visors on cycle stances in fabrics helmets which are re- leased when rubbed Changes colour Micro- Children’s toys, when tempera- encapsula- clothing & bags, ture changes tion safety wear for night time, fire exit signs

Can you match the name of the Smart/Modern material, with their properties and ex- amples of their use? Renewable Energy Revision (BBC Bitesize)

Different kinds of energy sources

Renewable energy sources Our renewable energy resources will never run out. Their supply is not limited. There are no fuel costs either. And they typically generate far less pollution than fossil fuels.

Renewable energy resources include: wind energy water energy, such as wave machines, tidal barrages and hydroelectric power geothermal energy solar energy biomass energy, for example energy released from wood

A wind turbine

However, there are some negatives to generating renewable energy. For example, wind farms are noisy and may spoil the view of people who live near them. The amount of electricity generated depends on the strength of the wind. Also, if there is no wind, there is no electricity. The turbines take up a lot of space and there is not sufficient land for lots of large wind farms to supply all the energy needed in the UK.

Non-renewable energy sources There is a limited supply of non-renewable energy resources, which will eventually run out. They include: fossil fuels, such as coal, oil and natural gas nuclear fuels, such as uranium

Fossil fuels release carbon dioxide when they burn, which adds to the greenhouse effect and increases global warming. Of the three fossil fuels, coal produces the most carbon dioxide, for a given amount of energy released, while natural gas generates the least.

The fuel for nuclear power stations is relatively cheap. But the power stations themselves are expensive to build. It is also very expensive to dismantle old nuclear power stations or store radioactive waste, which is a dangerous health hazard.

Renewable Energy Sources Worksheet

Type of Energy How does it work? Benefits and Problems

When the w______If the wind doesn’t blow then there will b______the be no ______. b______turn It is popular in the UK because it is a around. This turns the ______country. g______on

and produces electricity.

Fast flowing If it doesn’t rain and the dams do not fill w______is used to up then the production of electricity is turn the very ______. t______, thus One country where this source of energy generating is very important is ______because e______. Wa- of the Aswan Dam. ter is often collected be- hind a d______in

deep v______.

S______panels ab- During the night the production of ener- sorb the e______gy is lower because there is no irradiated by the ______. s______converting It is more likely to be used in the light into electricity or ______countries. by heating up water that is used to h______up

our homes.

Keywords: Keywords: Keywords: Hydro-electric; Solar; Wind Blades; Blows; Dam; Elec- Electricity; Egypt; Light; Low; Sunny; tricity; Energy; Heat; Gen- Windy erator; Solar, Sun; Tur- bines; Valleys; Water;

Wind; Example question: Comparing traditional and modern products

History of the Trouser Suit www.wikipedia.org www.businessinsider.com Until recent times, the idea of women wearing trousers or trouser suits was considered quite scandalous. These garments were seen as menswear and not an option for women at all. During the Victorian era in Britain, it was not seen as socially acceptable for a woman to wear trousers even for activities such as riding a horse or bike. (Women wearing trousers was seen as taboo, much as men wearing skirts is still seen today).

In 1919, Luisa Capetillo challenged mainstream society by becoming the first woman in Puerto Rico to wear trou- sers in public. Capetillo was sent to jail for what was then considered to be a crime, but, the judge later dropped the charges against her The trouser suit was introduced in the 1920s, when a small number of women adopted a masculine style. However, the term, "trouser suit" had been used in Britain during the First World War, with reference to women working in heavy industry.

Women wearing work wear during WW1 The 1920’s Trouser Suit

Actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn were often photographed in trousers from the 1930s , although it was not seen as acceptable for most ordinary women to wear trousers, unless for activities such as sports or gardening

in Britain during the Second World War, because of the ra- tioning of clothing, many women took to wearing their hus- bands' civilian clothes to work while their husbands were away in the armed forces. This was partly because they were seen as work garments, and partly to allow women to keep their clothing allowance for other uses. As the men's clothes wore out, replacements were needed, so that by the sum- mer of 1944 it was reported that sales of women's trousers were five times more than in the previous year.

During the 1960s trouser suits for women became increasingly widespread. Designers such as Foale and Tuffin in London and Luba Marks in the United States were early promoters of trouser suits. In 1966 Yves Saint-Laurent introduced his “Le Smoking” an evening pantsuit for women that mimicked a man's tuxedo. Whilst Saint-Laurent is often credited with introducing trouser suits, it was noted in 1968 that some of his pantsuits were very similar to designs that had already been offered by Luba Marks, and the London designer Ossie Clark had offered a trouser suit for women in 1964. Although most respectable restaurants and hotels would not allow women to wear trouser suits at the time.

n Britain a social watershed was crossed in 1967 when Lady Chichester, wife of the navigator Sir Francis Chichester, wore a trouser suit when her husband was publicly knighted by Queen Elizabeth II. Pantsuits were often seen as inappropriately masculine clothing for women. For example, until 1993, women were not permitted to wear trouser suits or trousers of any kind on the United States Senate floor. In 1993, Sena- tors Barbara Mikulski and Carol Moseley Braun wore trousers onto the floor in defiance of the rule, and female

During the 2016 Presidential election, the trouser suit became a symbolic rallying cry among supporters of Hillary Clinton, many of whom donned pantsuits when they went to the polls to cast their ballots.

Until 2016 some female crew members on British Airways were required to wear British Airways’ standard "ambassador" uniform, which has not traditionally includ- ed trousers

Raymond "Ossie" Clark (9 June 1942 – 6 August 1996) was an English fashion designer who was a major figure in the scene in London and the fashion industry in that era. Clark is now re- nowned for his vintage designs by present-day designers. Clark is compared to the 1960s fashion great Biba and influenced many other designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, and . Manolo Blahnik has said of Ossie Clark's work: "He created an incredible magic with the body and achieved what fashion should do—produce desire." Ossie Clark and Ossie Clark for Radley clothes are highly sought after, and are worn by well known models such as and . The period from 1965 to 1974 is regarded as his zenith, during which time he had many famous clients. In the late 1960s, Clark hit a rich vein for his flamboyant clothing range. The fashion press dubbed Ossie the "King of King's Road". Clark pronounced himself a "master cutter. It's all in my brain and fingers and there's no-one in the world to touch me. I can do everything myself." Clark's great idol was the famous dancer Nijinsky and his love of dance inspired his clothes to be free moving and not to restrict the fe- male form. This style of dressing became quite popular in the 1970s thanks in large part to the populari- ty of Clark's clothing. Ossie Clark is well known for his use of muted colours and moss crepe fabric. He also designed shoes, paper dresses, and snakeskin jackets. In 1967 Clark presented his first fashion show under the patronage of Radley at Chelsea Town Hall for Pathé News. It was a seminal turning point in the history of fashion shows which were never to be the same again. He also showed his first full collection in London's Berkeley Square. It was also the first British fashion show to feature black models. In 1968 Clark designed his first of many diffusion lines for Radley, "Ossie Clark for Radley" that made his clothes available to a high street clientele. Clark was not just popular in London, but also in New York and Paris. He dressed the rich and famous who inhabited the beau monde of the late 1960s and early 1970s of London. Clark got in on the ground floor of many of the popular performers and actors of the time period and was accepted in their circles when many other designers were not. This gave him many advantages to dress the rich and famous. Clark made many stage costumes for , the Beatles, and Liza Minnelli, among others. Top tips for answering the essay question (question 4):

•Aim to have a minimum of THREE keys points (1 point per paragraph)

•For each point explain WHY this INFLUENTIAL, how does it influence what we wear today, why is this fact important to the fashion industry?

•Don’t waffle, get to the point

•Write about Trouser Suits in general, not just Ossie Clark, but you can include a paragraph about him

•Check your SPAG

Key words

Influential: Powerful, important, significant

Iconic: very famous, fashionable, original and influential

Specifications and Designs (question 5)

Specification

•Write in full sentences

•Don’t repeat anything from the “Design Need”

•Justify each point (say “because….)

•Don’t repeat yourself using different words Have Specification points which will be easy to draw and annotate e.g. it must have pockets so that the user can keep small items in them, it must have fastenings so it is easy to do up when it is on etc.

Designs

•Have 4 initial designs, BE CREATIVE

•Annotate each one, linking to the Specification

Developing Design

•Make quite a lot of changes, don’t just draw the same thing again

•Annotate the changes linking it all back to the Specification and Design Need

•Draw more than one view, and more than one change (e.g. 3 different types of sleeve, front and back, close ups)

Final Design

•Label all 4 specification points and explain IN DETAIL

•Also label fabrics, components, and how it would be made (overlocker, hidden zip, type of hem and seam, button and loop, elasticated waistband etc.)