Right on Track Action and Extreme Sports Have Traditionally Been About Surf and Snow, but Recently the Thrill of Motocross Has Been Drawing Bigger Crowds

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WWDTHURSDAY ▲ WWDMusic, Section II Sportswear

Right on Track Action and extreme sports have traditionally been about surf and snow, but recently the thrill of motocross has been drawing bigger crowds. With over 1.2 million tickets AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER, BOTH FOR CELESTINE TALENT; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY STYLED BY ROBIN GLASER, BOTH FOR CELESTINE TALENT; AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY sold each season, the dirt track makes a perfect backdrop for spring’s ultrabright, graphic pieces. Here, from left, Hurley’s cotton dress and RVCA’s cotton denim pants. Spy Optics sunglasses, Nixon watch and Vans shoes. Rip Curl’s cotton T-shirt and Redsand’s cotton and polyester shorts. Alpine Stars belt, Peter Grimm hat, Spy Optic sunglasses and Vans shoes. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Michael’s Latest Project: Kors Out to Build 100-Store Chain By Marc Karimzadeh snapshot with him and lauding his profile being at an all-time high. NEW YORK — “Can I get your star turn as the photogenic judge Where he was once labeled as autograph, Michael?” on “Project Runway.” Kors was the designer darling of the Park Soccer moms and skateboard at the White Plains, N.Y., mall to Avenue princess, Bravo’s hit TV kids alike circled Michael Kors at open his second lifestyle concept show has catapulted Kors into the The Westchester mall last week, boutique, and the reaction of mainstream. Now the designer of hugging the designer, posing for a passersby is an indication of Kors’ See Kors, Page 5 PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEIDI GIBBS AT COMPETITIVE EDGE MOTO PARK, HESPERIA CALIF.; MODELS: LISA SHELDON/FORD AND JASON FAIX/M; HAIR BY MODELS: LISA SHELDON/FORD AND JASON FAIX/M; HESPERIA CALIF.; COMPETITIVE EDGE MOTO PARK, HEIDI GIBBS AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Spring is an eclectic mix of animal prints and bold graphics, as fl uorescent fedoras and skinny gray denim blend with tanks and long tunics. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 Michael Kors is looking to turn his recognition as a judge on “Project PERFORMING ARTS Runway” into the fi nancial success that has eluded him over the years. Four major museums in St. Gallen, Switzerland, will unveil exhibits on Fashion Meets Function In Today’s High-Tech Clothing 3 Friday devoted to fashion and the city’s rich textile history. Jo Anne, a human resources executive and BEAT: It’s been a year since Iconix acquired sportswear fi rm Rampage, The occasions that most women wore their 8 and it hasn’t wasted time expanding the brand into more categories. mother of two, is a self-professed football fanatic performance apparel certainly had to do with who never misses a home game, no matter what the running, but not on a track, as one might think. 42% 9 DISH: British brand Lee Cooper is making its fi rst foray into the weather. “Years ago, when you had to prepare of female respondents told the Monitor that they American market after steering clear for nearly 100 years. for a rainy day, all you could find were those big, donned their performance apparel to run errands, As a fragile peace holds, Israeli and Lebanese companies are assessing unflattering ponchos that rarely surpassing the category of exercise 12 the damage, adding up their losses and trying to get back on their feet. kept you dry. Today, there are so or a particular sport, which was Lancôme has signed Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann, daughter of longtime many great looking jackets and the answer for a surprisingly lesser 14 face Isabella Rossellini, to be the spokeswoman for its beauty products. hoodies that actually protect you 37% of females. 30% indicated from and even repel the rain. In fact, that they would wear the garment EYE I like some of these pieces so much or garments to work, 26% to Talking with Ward Just about his 14th and latest novel, “Forgetfulness,” that I wear them all the time!” meet friends and 21% to wear 4 about a CIA odd-job man whose beloved wife is randomly murdered. “When it comes to performance around the house. apparel, it’s as much about the “Performance apparel has WWDMusic is included in this issue as a Section II. look as it is about the technology clearly become an everyday part and both factors happen to be of a of women’s lives, as indicated by Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 high caliber right now,” considers their willingness to wear it to run To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Mike May, Director of Media errands and to the workplace,” [email protected], using the individual’s name. Relations for the Sporting Goods Bastos from Cotton Incorporated WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Manufacturer’s Association, a affirms. “They are clearly looking RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 44. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- trade organization representing for more from their apparel and ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- sports and fitness businesses. “In they’re getting it.” ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, “Appearance is clearly a Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers fact, the market only shows signs of “Some women are really smart driver for most people when they Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and getting even better as technology about how they dress and they can C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; are buying apparel and if you David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior improves.” come to my class in their yoga pants have a piece of clothing that has Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance “There is a very broad market and cotton tees and right after class, Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. been technically enhanced and Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. for performance apparel when you throw on a button down shirt, or a offers a bit more, consumers 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable consider all the different features skirt over their leggings, and look Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS like water repellency, ultraviolet will respond.” really stylish and not as if they were CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, — Joe Dixon, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR protection, moisture wicking and coming from a workout,” shares DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four Brooks Brothers weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. control, wind resistance, but there are Rupa Mehta, fitness instructor and Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other also treatments for wrinkle resistance owner and founder of The Nalini U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and stain resistance that make these garments perfect Method. “They can go through their whole day based and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions for everyday wear,” observes Melissa Bastos, Manager on the way they look when they leave my studio.” and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make of Market Research for Cotton Incorporated. “We And it seems that the majority of women prefer our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would are noting an increased awareness and appreciation it that way. According to the Monitor, 58% of interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. for these treatments by consumers and clearly it’s a female respondents stated that they prefer to wear WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- growing market.” one comfortable outfit for the day, SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Earlier this year, one out of Occasions Where Women versus changing their clothing to fit OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED two female respondents told the Would Wear Apparel With the occasion. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Performance Features When it comes to fiber Monitor™ that they had purchased preferences, nearly three out of four apparel with a performance To Run Errands 42% women also profess a clear favorite. In Brief feature. Half of these respondents, To Exercise 37% Cotton was king for an outstanding like football fan Jo Anne, had 58% of female respondents, ● Other Occasions 32% ON TO TOKYO: Diane von Furstenberg and her Japanese purchased a garment with a water followed by cotton derivatives like distributor, Unit & Guest, have partnered to open the com- repellency feature. When asked To Work 30% denim (9%) and cotton blends pany’s first freestanding store in Japan. DVF The Shop will what type of clothing that they To Meet Friends 26% (7%), according to the Monitor. be located in Tokyo’s hip and trendy Aoyama shopping dis- had most recently purchased The same penchant for cotton held trict, where Yohji Yamamoto, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada and with a performance feature, half Around the House 21% true when performance features others already have stores. When von Furstenberg’s store also indicated they purchased Don’t Know 4% were under consideration. When opens next month, it will be housed in architect Tadao Ando’s Collezione building. The store will be the designer’s 11th outerwear, such as ski and wind asked for their fiber preference worldwide. The 1,460-square-foot shop will offer a full range jackets; 10% stated athletic slacks or pants, 8% among three apparel items that were identical in of DVF ready-to-wear, including sportswear, eveningwear, stated shirts like tees, polos and golf shirts. price and style, and enhanced with the same dresses, accessories, shoes, swimwear, maternity and exclu- Performance apparel may have originated as performance features, 76% of females stated cotton. sive runway looks. New deliveries of prints and colorways will apparel for athletes and spectators, but any one “The performance apparel market is gaining arrive monthly. The shop will also house an edited selection looking for a little extra polish can benefit from momentum and the consumer will be well of the DVF beauty line. served by quite a wide selection,” May, the trade buying a garment with a special treatment, as Joe ● association executive promises. ADLER TO DARON: Michael Adler has been named presi- Dixon, Vice President of Production and Technical dent of sales at the New York-based Daron Fashions Group, Services with Brooks Brothers, a retail destination Dixon from Brooks Brothers agrees. “Treated a children’s outerwear manufacturer. Bringing more than 30 for men’s and women’s classic clothing, attests. garments are definitely resonating with the years of experience to the company, Adler joins Daron from “Appearance is clearly a driver for most people when consumer; we know that once they buy one, they the Zero Exposure children’s division of Fleet Street Ltd. Prior they are buying apparel and if you have a piece of come back and buy a bunch.” to that, Adler was a principal at Debutogs, where he launched clothing that has been technically enhanced and offers As the experts attest, it sounds as if performance the Red Pepper children’s activewear brand and the Michael a bit more, consumers will respond,” he tells. “They apparel will be performing well for seasons to come. Lewis children’s outerwear label. At Daron, Adler reports to want something that looks good throughout the day, This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Michael Rosenberg, owner. but also offers comfort and an ease of care, like it doesn’t ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ wrinkle easily and stays crisp. That’s important.” tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these WWD. COM It was the performance benefit that motivated pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it most (32%) of women to purchase a garment with relates to the American consumer and her attitudes News In Real Time a performance feature, according to the Monitor. and behavior regarding clothing, Get instant access to everything you need to know about the fash- Other reasons included comfort (11%), style and color appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ion and retailing business. WWD.com is the gateway to the WWD (another 11%), price (7%) and ease of care (6%). many other timely, relevant subjects. Archive, more than 80,000 stories dating back to 1994. For more information, visit wwd.com. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 3 WWD.COM Akris Sews the St. Gallen Story By Miles Socha And don’t miss what the designer calls his “cashmere Kriemler, showing a handful of the lifelike fabric taran- feel room,” where bolts of the luscious stuff beg to be tulas to Kriemler. “The ladies in the company dared not ST. GALLEN, Switzerland — They built this city on em- stroked. “It’s really about feeling this exhibition, not to touch them.” broidery — and it’s ready for its close-up. only looking at it,” he stressed. Schlaepfer, meanwhile, churned out terry cloth On Friday, four major museums here will unveil ex- While even industry folk associate St. Gallen with dresses with Italian fi lm stills burned onto them by la- hibits devoted to fashion and St. Gallen’s rich textile couture fabrics, Kriemler hopes the exhibition will sers for German artist Rosemarie Trockel, and bolts of history, showcasing everything from a gown composed of prove “there is also an industry behind it….I use St. dense text etched into glossy, high-tech polyester for delicate layers of organza to a leather-clad performance Gallen embroidery for everyday clothes.” British artist Liam Gillick. artist chained to a chair — a real slave to fashion. Indeed, one of the garments from Kriemler’s current The Kunstmuseum and Historiches Museum also The centerpiece is a sprawling exhibition at the fall-winter collection most in demand from editors is a delve deeply into the links between art and fashion in Textilmuseum mounted by Akris, the fast-growing fi rm coat that reprises a vintage St. Gallen embroidery de- surprising and amusing ways. that helped put this picturesque Swiss city on the in- sign from 1963. And one of Akris’ best-selling blouses of Roland Wäspe, director of the Kunstmuseum, noted ternational fashion map with its cashmere double- all time, a stretch silk chiffon number from his fall 2002 that its impressive collection of Old Master paintings was face jackets and luxurious and modern sportswear. A collection, was trimmed with lily of the valley embroi- bestowed by the Sturzenegger family, which built its for- group of international editors, retailers and VIPs will dery, circa 1953. tune on textiles and tablecloths. These are mixed with be invited to tour the citywide cultural event, titled Although the fashion house was founded in 1922 thought-provoking works — including early Nan Goldin “Schnittpunkt” — the German word for “crossroads” — by Kriemler’s grandmother, who started out crafting snapshots of her transvestite friends in Boston — for an on Sept. 30 between the Milan and Paris fashion weeks. aprons on a single sewing machine, the exhibition exhibition titled “Lifestyle.” Organizers hope to welcome more than 50,000 visitors is not a retrospective, partly because the company “Fashion is more than surface. It has to do with iden- over the next four months. did not archive its fashions until the early Eighties. tity,” Wäspe said, pointing, for example, to a tiny sculp- “Everybody now goes to India for embroidery, but Spread over three floors, the show documents ture of Karl Lagerfeld by Berlin artist Karin Sander, this is a tradition we also have in Europe,” said Akris Kriemler’s evolution as a designer and highlights the crafted layer by layer by a computer after a 3-D body designer Albert Kriemler, a walking encyclopedia of his house’s obsession with divinely rich fabrics and so- scan, a technology now employed for fashion. hometown’s textile lore and a passionate guardian and phisticated embellishments. Meanwhile, “Dresscodes” at the Historiches Museum cheerleader of its savoir faire. “I’m proud that we still It’s also a hands-on introduction to broderie Anglais, demonstrates how dresses, in the hands of artists such have an industry here that does something that’s the guipure and sequins, three St. Gallen mainstays turned as Yoko Ono, Lucy Orta or Beverly Semmes, are talking best in the world.” out by such mythic St. Gallen fabric houses as Jakob points for such complex issues as celebrity, homeless- It’s all there for the public to reach out and grab at Schlaepfer, Forster Rohner and Bischoff. Rolls of the ness and isolation. the Akris exhibition, which Kriemler hopes will “ex- stuff undulate toward visitors, awaiting inspection. For his part, Kriemler is confi dent the exhibition plain how we work and who we are.” Visitors accus- But “Schnittpunkt” — which focuses on art as much will enlarge St. Gallen’s renown for its textile industry, tomed to seeing dresses behind glass will encounter no as fashion — also gave these mills a chance to experi- which employs an estimated 6,500 people, almost one- such barriers here. Kriemler put Akris designs from the ment, realizing fabrics dreamed up by six contemporary tenth of the population. “St. Gallen embroidery has al- Eighties through to the current fall season in stairwells artists. These are on show at the Neue Kunst Halle. ways been important to us,” he said. “This makes the and hallways, even installing racks of double-face and “Have you seen these? They’re hand-embroidered whole exhibition credible for me. I would have never leather jackets from sizes 2 to 12 for people to try on. spiders,” Tobias Forste of Forster Rohner said to done this in another city.”

Designs by Albert Kriemler. Embroidered fabric Albert Kriemler spiders by artist Pierre Vadi.

Akris designs displayed on the museum staircase.

Works on display at the Ballet costumes by Akris. “Lifestyle” exhibit. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY 4 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM

Kylie Maria Minogue Banding Sharapova Together From dog-walking to nights on the town, it’s clear wide headbands are the accessory of choice for on-the-go celebs. Those of the stretchy variety provide a chic alternative to the quintessential baseball cap on bad hair days, while a patterned chiffon scarf adds a delicate, laid-back touch to a cocktail-ready Nicole ensemble. Sienna Miller chooses a long gray length and Richie tucks the extra into her belt (a new substitute for Rapunzel extensions?). Out in Los Angeles, tabloidites Nicole Richie and Lindsay Lohan add that beach bum je ne sais quoi to their takes on the trend. But tennis star Maria Sharapova wins the purist award for her look: a swoosh-emblazoned Nike sweatband paired with a rocker-esque striped vest. U.S. Open opponents beware: This girl’s got game and Mischa fashion savvy. Barton MILLER BY THORNTON/GREEN/INFGOFF; LOHAN BY JONATHAN FRIOLO/IHP/SPLASH NEWS; MINOGUE BY IAN LAWRENCE/SPLASH NEWS NEWS; MINOGUE BY FRIOLO/IHP/SPLASH JONATHAN BY THORNTON/GREEN/INFGOFF; LOHAN MILLER BY

Lindsay Lohan Julianne Moore

Maggie Grace

Jessica Biel

Sienna Miller RICHIE PHOTO BY BAUER-GRIFFIN; BIEL, GRACE BY INFGOFF; MOORE, SHARAPOVA BY ROGER WONG/INFGOFF; BARTON BY PICTURE MEDIA/INFGOFF; BY ROGER WONG/INFGOFF; BARTON BY INFGOFF; MOORE, SHARAPOVA BY BIEL, GRACE BAUER-GRIFFIN; RICHIE PHOTO BY

traversing the mountains, and Thomas is thrust back into the for me to talk about other things,” he says. world of spy games. “The way I work, I don’t map things out, I don’t have an Just Cause “This is really a story about a man where grief comes into outline,” he explains, joking that he blames any darkness his house and sits down at the table and refuses to leave,” in his work on the Mahler, Brahms and Wagner he listens to WARD JUST’S NOVELS USUALLY PLAY OUT PRIVATE explains Just. “So he must look at the rest while writing. “When I start the beginning, dramas against a wallpaper of international politics. His 15th of his life in that context, meaning not just Ward I don’t know the ending. And these things and latest, “Forgetfulness,” is no different, telling the story of fi ve years down the road, but this afternoon Just come fl ying in from God knows where and so a CIA odd-job man whose wife is randomly murdered. Given and tomorrow and the day after tomorrow. they get themselves on the page.” his rather serious subject matter, it may come as a surprise How he can maintain his sense of himself in His very visceral style is also uniquely that Just likes to laugh. A lot. the midst of this grief — refusing to become devoid of quotation marks. “I want the reader Speaking by phone from his Martha’s Vineyard home, the defi ned by it. Nonetheless, there it is.” to visualize or internalize the dialogue,” he 71-year-old author often breaks into merry chuckles over such Just, who has covered territory ranging says. “If you think of spoken dialogue as sort things as how much more exciting his protagonists’ fi ctional from the halls of the Capitol to Chicago of a shadow of a thought on a wall, then this lives are than his own. Of course, others might disagree. In society to Eastern bloc beaches, also wanted is the thought itself.” his early incarnation as a journalist, Just was sent to Vietnam to capture the post-9/11 climate. “There is Despite the breadth of his experiences, by The Washington Post and to London and Cyprus for kind of an existential cloud that’s formed Just, who’s currently working on his 16th Newsweek. Since then, he’s lived in Berlin and Paris — where on the horizon,” he says. “I wanted to write book, remains gruffl y self-deprecating. he still spends every winter with his wife, Sarah Catchpole. about that in a way that was utterly remote “I cannot tell you how tedious and boring “Forgetfulness” is set in France, in the Pyrenees, in the from the Twin Towers or the Pentagon. It’s the life of a professional writer is,” he tiny fi ctional town of St. Michel du Valcabrère. A restless almost kind of a drizzle. Like many of us laughs. “What do you do? You pour a cup of American portrait painter, Thomas Railles has found respite — we pick up the paper, you look at the coffee and walk into your offi ce and play a there in his marriage to Florette, a local sweater maker. But headline, and you either read that story about four more couple of games of Klondike [solitaire] and then sit down and even this isolated existence isn’t safe from the long reach of killed, or 12 more killed in Iraq, or you don’t.” write all day long. And then you muck up and fi nd your wife, his old life as a part-time CIA operative, or from the present By his own admission, Just is less concerned with the and you say, ‘Gosh, I got two pages, isn’t that wonderful?’ Mideast confl ict. On an afternoon walk, Florette’s throat is plot’s dramatic arc than he is with atmosphere, character and Dramatic, it isn’t.” slashed by Moroccan militants who stumble upon her while life’s larger questions. “The plot is always kind of an excuse — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 5 WWD.COM Kors Aims to Capitalize on Higher Profi le

Continued from page one Michael Kors in derscore that mood, such as vintage editions of the luxe American sportswear faces the ultimate his new store. J.D. Salinger classic “The Catcher in the Rye” or challenge: to translate his newfound recognition DVDs of “Love Story.” among TV junkies into a fi nancial hit. Each store also has exclusive items. In Over the past 25 years, Kors has struggled to Westchester, these include the Jet Set Michael build his business into signifi cant volume, with monogram travel collection, from $30 for a wallet to several licensing deals failing to take off to sup- $450 for a large duffl e; a Michael Kors argyle mink port his small, but generally well-received, vest for $7,000; a Michael Kors sheared mink rugby Collection business. Collection continues to be scarf for $1,995, and Michael jeans for $129.50. an important but still small business; the bridge Kors said he came up with the multipriced con- Kors Michael Kors line faltered except for its li- cept when thinking about the Michael better line. censed footwear, and the better-priced women’s “I would look at a shoe at $99 and realize there and men’s Michael Michael Kors line, launched is nothing wrong with it,” he said. “That’s very with much fanfare in 2004, got off to a rocky start, American. This is the land of Norman Norrell and prompting multiple layoffs and the shutdown of Levi Strauss. My attitude was, why not mix it up? Michael men’s wear earlier this year. Normally, when you think about it, she’d have to shop When Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou bought in fi ve stores to get this mix, and who has time?” the company in 2003, executives spoke of the Sales projections for the new Westchester unit brand’s $1 billion potential. Market sources indi- are $1,000 a square foot. All lifestyle stores initial- cated that goal is still light-years away, but Kors ly will be located in malls, but Idol didn’t rule out is now taking several strategic steps to grow his street-level locations, with plans to eventually open business and cash in on the heightened aware- two to three such boutiques in New York, and fur- ness of his name. Among the biggest moves is that, ther units in Chicago, San Francisco and Miami. just like so many other designer brands in this And the retail expansion isn’t the only push new Darwinian climate, he’s turning himself into Kors is making to grow his business. The company a retailer with his new lifestyle stores. launched an e-commerce site earlier this month The concept was unveiled at the NorthPark with Neiman Marcus Direct, offering a similar Center in Dallas last month, followed by the mix of accessories from the three lines, including Westchester unit. Kors plans to take the multitier fragrances and select apparel. Come February, concept to The Pier at Caesars in Atlantic City in Kors will launch his fi rst catalogue, also with October, and the Town Center Mall in Boca Raton, Neiman Marcus, which will be shipped to approx- Fla., in November. According to John Idol, chief imately 750,000 shoppers. It is expected to appear executive offi cer and a partner in Michael Kors each spring, fall and holiday. Inc., the plan is to have 100 such stores by 2009. The moves are aimed at growing a business that The stores send a clear signal of where execu- some industry observers still consider challenged. tives see the bread and butter of the company’s Idol conceded the Michael women’s apparel future — handbags and shoes. Idol said accesso- business was diffi cult in its fi rst year, but claimed ries account for 60 percent of the company’s total it is now back on track. At the launch, there were volume and the plan is to boost that to 75 to 80 reports of delivery problems, inconsistent fi t, ex- percent in the next two or three years. To that cess inventory at retail and layoffs. One source said end, the new stores focus heavily on accessories that, in the fi rst year, a large amount of Michael in- and mix items from the designer’s three tiers: the ventory made its way to off-price retailers. top-level Michael Kors Collection, the bridge Kors “The customer expected a product that was much younger, much faster, much more trend driven,” Idol said. “The minute we changed the

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTOS BY philosophical design of that product, the product really was very successful. “The layoffs were a complete and total misconception,” he added. “When you start a company from scratch and go quickly, you set up your staff a certain way, and quite frankly, we probably had a few too many people on the back end of the company. But we readjusted quickly.” According to Idol, Michael is sold in about 400 doors, including Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom. “I think they’re still trying to evolve and develop and identify their formula,” said Andrea Goldreyer, a market analyst for better sportswear at the Doneger Group, the large buying offi ce here, of the better line. “But they have certain categories that have been consistent, such as their halter business, which has been a key item; their tunics, and their pants. We have great hopes. Certainly the potential is there, but we will have to evaluate spring and see how that goes.” As for continued speculation about woes in the Collection business, Idol noted that it “experienced tremendous growth in dollar sales and door growth.” Collection is sold in about 75 doors, including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Intermix. The company currently Kors’ new lifestyle has four Collection stores: Manhattan; Beverly Hills; Manhasset, N.Y., and Dubai. concept boutique at Idol said there are plans to open at least another fi ve to six more U.S. Collection The Westchester mall. units in cities such as San Francisco; Bal Harbour, Fla., and Costa Mesa, Calif. “We had a diffi cult spring season, which was part of some missteps we made,” Idol conceded. “Our pricing got a little out of line and was probably about 15 Michael Kors and the better Michael Michael Kors. The store cross-merchandises the percent too high. We picked some fabrics that were probably a bit too expensive. We were three by trend rather than tier, and retail prices range from $24.50 for a tank top to a little surprised — she [the customer] stopped and said, ‘No, I am not going to pay for it.’ $12,000 for a crocodile handbag. Kors maintained that this was a deliberate move to We have readjusted our prices for the fall and our business has been pretty good.” refl ect changing consumer buying patterns. Ron Frasch, vice chairman and chief merchant at Saks Fifth Avenue, echoed the “Everyone does the talk but no one walks the walk,” he said. “Everyone says it’s all sentiment. “We came off a terrifi c August, and we are working very closely with John about the mix, and that she wears couture with denim, or sable with fl ip-fl ops. This is and his team to get this business built again. They are really making the right strides,” how a lot of people want to shop, but no retailers ever follow through with it.” Frasch said. “Michael Kors as a brand is very important, but when you go through a The stores, Kors said, will help him develop a new generation of customers who change, it takes a few seasons to get it right, which is what has been happening under may only buy a $38 key fob now but, once acquainted with the brand, will one day be- John’s leadership.” come loyal Collection shoppers. And Kors needs quite a few of those new customers Frasch also noted that Kors footwear and Collection footwear and handbags have if he and his business partners want to reach that $1 billion goal. While one industry performed particularly well recently. source pegged Kors’ total retail sales at about $500 million, other market observers Jim Gold, president and ceo of Bergdorf Goodman, said Kors is a “large and impor- estimated they fall far short of that fi gure. Many remained skeptical that sales are tant business for us.” exceeding the $100 million mark at wholesale. “Michael Kors’ fashion is consistent, straightforward and lifestyle driven,” said “These stores open us up to an enormous group of people who know the name but per- Gold. “Core classifi cations such as luxurious knits, denim and suitings are great key haps haven’t had the chance to see the clothes or the product that often,” Kors said. “In item styles at attractive price points. He also has excellent deliveries.” certain instances, they have never seen it all under one roof. It broadens our horizon.” Gold added that Collection has growth potential at Bergdorf ’s. The 3,000-square-foot Westchester unit, which was created by architect Michael “There is defi nitely a client for great American sportswear,” he said. “Michael’s Neuman, has an inviting all-white interior, with polished white marble fl oors, zebra-fabric- customer is extremely loyal and loves the fact that Michael knows exactly who she is covered furniture, brushed steel fi xtures, Lucite shelves and ebony wood tables. While the and how she wants to dress for every occasion.” store is peppered with a piece of clothing here or there, there’s no mistaking the concept Idol said he has no intention of adding licenses to Kors, unless they are in catego- is focused on accessories, which account for 70 percent of the merchandise on display. The ries that require them. On Friday, the company is launching its fi rst home collection clothing on tap does not require extensive fi ttings, such as peacoats, fur vests and jeans. of sheets and towels with a shop-in-shop at Bloomingdale’s. The collection is manu- The store’s merchandise is organized by a theme, which changes every eight weeks. factured under license with Revman Industries. For the launch, it is Twisted Preppy, suede boots, stacked wedges and peacoats. Upon “I was the one who said we will get to $1 billion,” Idol recalled. “In all truth, while entry, the customer faces a fl at screen displaying the current Collection runway show. the past two years have been the hardest, it’s hard to take something small to big. The In front of the running reel are two rectangular display tables set up like a runway, next phase will be more diffi cult, because now you have to execute. You have the plat- with top items that mirror the mood of the season, as well as accoutrements to un- form to take the company and double and triple it. We’re up to the challenge.” 6 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 Bolding Pattern Spring is an eclectic mix of animal prints and bold graphics. Fluorescent fedoras and skinny gray denim lend an Eighties vibe to

; SPECIAL THANKS TO FOX MOTO TEAM lightweight tanks and long tunics — some of the key looks at this year’s ASR trade expo, which runs from Sept. 8 to 10 in San Diego. Y AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER, BOTH FOR CELESTINE TALENT; FASHION ASSISTANT: HANNAH LEE; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY HANNAH LEE; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: FASHION ROBIN GLASER, BOTH FOR CELESTINE TALENT; Y AARON LIGHT AND MAKEUP BY

From left: Redsand’s cotton T-shirt and Stussy’s cotton shorts and hat. Alpine Stars’ cotton T-shirt and YMI Denim’s cotton denim jumper. Holster belt and Vans shoes. Fox Moto Team on staircase. PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEIDI GIBBS AT COMPETITIVE EDGE MOTO PARK, HESPERIA, CALIF.; MODELS: LISA SHELDON/FORD AND JASON FAIX/M; HAIR B MODELS: LISA SHELDON/FORD AND JASON FAIX/M; HESPERIA, CALIF.; COMPETITIVE EDGE MOTO PARK, HEIDI GIBBS AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 7 WWD.COM

From left: Billabong’s cotton knit top and Vans’ cotton denim jeans. Session’s cotton T-shirt and Redsand’s cotton and polyester shorts. Vans shoes.

Etnies Girl’s cotton dress. Spy Optic sunglasses, Nixon watch and Vans shoes.

From left: Fox’s cotton T-shirt. Fox’s cotton tank top. Insight’s cotton tank top and vest and Roxy’s cotton shorts. Alpine Stars fedora and Nixon watch. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Petra Nemcova in the fall Rampage ad Rampage Grows Up With Iconix campaign.

By Julee Greenberg Hansel Clothing. Hansel said the col- shows Nemcova wearing sexy looks from lection has become more sophisticated the collection, like a skintight black dress t’s been a year since Iconix acquired in the last year, almost to target a young with bright red pumps. Ijunior sportswear company Rampage, contemporary customer rather than the “Petra is the quintessential Rampage and the new owner hasn’t wasted any junior shopper. woman,” said Dari Marder, the compa- time expanding the brand into more cat- “There is so much more quality to ny’s creative director. “Our goal with this egories. the product now, and much more value,” campaign was to position Rampage as an “Our mission with Rampage has been Hansel said. “In the junior area, there’s aspirational brand for the young contem- and will continue to be to build it into a a real niche for dressier junior clothing; porary market.” complete lifestyle brand,” said Neil Cole, everything looks so casual on the fl oor, So far, retailers seem happy with the chairman and chief executive offi cer of and I believe the market is moving away new Rampage image. Rob Smith, execu- Iconix. “Business has really taken off over from casual.” tive vice president and general merchan- the last year and there is so much poten- Hansel said Rampage has upgraded dise manager at Macy’s East, said the line tial for it to grow even more.” fabrics, using rayon blends, silks and pima continues to perform well. The 23-year-old Rampage, still a staple cotton to make knit tops and skirts, woven “With Rampage, Larry is really tap- for department stores, brings in about shirts, lined jackets, dresses and pants. ping into a great business opportunity,” $300 million a year at retail. Iconix has “We pay a lot of attention to detail in the Smith explained. “It’s targeted to a just signed a girls’ sportswear license with product so that we can offer a better value,” young, fashionable girl, which has always Mamiye Brothers to introduce a collection Hansel said. “For instance, we have lined been its strength, but now the product of Rampage girls’ wear for spring 2007. Cole jackets and fi nished seams on the pants. just looks better than it ever has. It looks also said he is “very close” to signing a li- You get more for your money now, which great on the fl oor and is being very well censing deal for a full Rampage denim line, seems to be lacking in the junior area.” received by customers.” as well as another for a home collection. To help launch Rampage’s new, more Iconix acquired Rampage last year year, overexpansion and reportedly weak In addition, there are 12 other licens- contemporary image, the brand has for a reported $45.9 million, consisting of fi nancial management pushed Rampage es for products ranging from lingerie to signed on 27-year-old Czech model Petra $25.8 million in cash and $20.1 million in into bankruptcy. The company emerged shoes. The sportswear continues to be Nemcova to appear in its fall ad cam- company stock. from bankruptcy in 1999. designed and manufactured by Larry paign, which appears in the September The brand has had its share of ups and “It’s almost like we are a fresh com- Hansel, who founded the brand and is issues of In Style, Elle and Cosmopolitan. downs over the years. In 1996, wholesale pany now,” Hansel said. “It shows in the president of Los Angeles-based Larry Shot by Gilles Bensimon, the campaign volume hit $195 million, but the following product.” Boutique Finds Shoppers Online Ecko and Nissan By Cate T. Corcoran Chicago, Evanston and Glencoe, Ill., and Boulder, Colo. — average 3,500 to 4,000 square feet and do Go for a Drive NEW YORK — Little-known Internet retailer Active about $1 million to $2 million a year. The retailer has Endeavors offers an extensive selection of emerging about 25 administrative employees, and another 50 NEW YORK — Marc Ecko is taking Nissan for a ride. and established contemporary designers online, fea- to 75 salespeople. Davis declined to reveal 2005 com- The designer has teamed up with Nissan North turing hard-to-fi nd labels such as Charlotte Ronson, pany revenues. America Inc. to modify two Nissan SUVs — the Johnson and Corey Lynn Calter, as well as stalwarts Davis started working as a salesman at the retailer Nissan Pathfi nder and Nissan Armada — giving such as Marc by Marc Jacobs. in 1994, and eventually bought Active Endeavors from each a new design inspired by his Ecko Unltd. and The Evanston, Ill., company started out selling out- the founders, who are no longer with the company. Cut & Sew clothing lines. The two one-of-a-kind ve- door gear in the Chicago area in 1985 and now has four In the late Nineties, the retailer began adding fash- hicles will be displayed at events across the country brick-and-mortar stores in the Midwest and West. ion items. Although Catherine Malandrino didn’t mix following a formal unveiling here in October. The retailer eliminated all outdoor brands only well with Patagonia and North Face, the customers “Side by side, these two vehicles share a design last year, and the Internet site is its fast- heritage, yet each has its own distinct character,” Ecko est-growing store. A recent redesign added said. “My goal is to take that character to the next level easier navigation and other enhancements. and to express the vehicles’ individuality through For instance, although the new site does not bold, original design and superior execution.” have advanced effects such as zoom, there The vehicles are being customized by Will Castro are fi ve or six photos per style. The updat- at Unique Auto Sport on Long Island. ed Fit Guides are unusually detailed, offer- The Ecko Unltd. Pathfi nder is customized with ing descriptions of specifi c styles from each a black-and-gray camoufl age paint job with bright denim brand, as well as other lines such as orange detailing. Inside, driver and passenger seats Ella Moss. are given a Sixties redesign, with molded wood With their elaborate detail and comparisons backs and seamless black leather. Extra touches in- with other brands and styles, the guides sound clude a matching wood steering wheel and a hand- like music or wine criticism. For example, molded fi berglass subwoofer enclosure. on the subject of J Brand, a new denim com- The Cut & Sew Armada comes with a cream pany that is hot because it offers plain, dark, Landau roof, custom moon-baby–inspired hubs, tapered jeans, Active Endeavors says: “Plain white-wall tires and safety-orange side panels. is the new bling…While trying on the jean we The interior is cream and tan calfskin with heavy noticed some back-gapping at the waist, but contrast stitching on the steering wheel, door pan- that’s about all we can critique. This jean also els and dashboard, a briefcase–inspired glove box reminded us of a Citizens of Humanity Kelly and an encased subwoofer with heavy-duty straps cut or the A-Pocket by Seven.” and buckles. Other special features include road- The more frequently updated Look Book ster-style gauges, metal gas and brake pedals and a gives shoppers ideas for how to put the prod- wireless communications system. ucts together with magazine-style shots of In addition to the two custom vehicles, Ecko models wearing the clothes. Top Trends does will launch limited-edition, co-branded hooded the same, organizing outfi ts around themes Active Endeavors projects its online store jackets, woven button-downs, T-shirts, leather key such as the color red, ruching and denim. will do $10 million this year. chains and other items that will be given away The site also offers free shipping. at events and sold online through nissan.eckoun “We’re really excited about the Internet ltd.com. Proceeds from these sales will benefi t component because it’s the fastest-growing store for both were the same, Davis said. The store decid- Sweat Equity Enterprises, a nonprofi t organization we have and it seems like a huge opportunity,” said ed to get into fashion apparel because it turns more that empowers young people to learn professional chief executive offi cer Drew Davis. “That segment of quickly than outdoor gear and is less dependent on design and technology skills while working behind our business has driven a lot of choices we’ve made the weather. the scenes in leading design companies. over time because it’s the vanguard and the rest of Last year, the company closed a second Chicago — J.G. the business follows. The Internet gives us very quick location and has hired a marketing director for the The Ecko Unltd. Nissan Pathfi nder. feedback on what’s hot, what’s not, and what people Web site. The company advertises on Google and also want and don’t want.” drives traffi c by being affi liated with other Internet The online store was launched in May 2003. A month sites such as MakeupAlley.com. Only 2 percent of later, the site got a huge pop when Oprah Winfrey men- Active’s brick-and-mortar and online customers over- tioned how much she loved C&C California’s T-shirts. lap. Most of its Internet business comes from the At the time, Active Endeavors was the only Internet coasts, Davis said. retailer carrying them, Davis said. The company plans to compete against department The company projects its online store will pull in stores and online boutiques by being different. “We’re about $10 million in revenue by the end of this year. trying to fi nd a balance between being creative and Overall, the business is estimated to do about $15 interesting while still running a business and making million in 2006, Davis said. Its real-world stores — in a profi t,” Davis said. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Denim Dish Lee Cooper Enters U.S. With Platinum Collection Lee Cooper is making its first foray into the American market after steering clear for nearly 100 years. The British-born denim brand, which will celebrate its Music: It’s in the Jeans centennial in 2008, has until now kept its distance for reasons more historical than strategic. Mix a rock ’n’ roll-loving jeans designer with a rock “There was a global understanding between Lee [jeans] legend’s daughter and the result is a new high-end and Lee Cooper, which meant that Lee Cooper never ven- denim line. tured into the U.S. market for understandable reasons,” Dubbed 4 Stroke, the collection launching for said Ajay Khaitan, the label’s president and chief execu- spring retailing is created and designed by Taso tive offi cer. Karras, who has about 20 years of experience de- While this sort of agreement signing jeans. But before he could create, Karras might have made sense in years said he needed an in-house muse. So he called past when there were far fewer IMG and arranged a meeting with model Theodora denim brands in existence, the Richards, daughter of Rolling Stones guitarist explosion of denim in recent Keith Richards. The two met and connected imme- years has changed the land- diately. Soon, ideas for a rock-inspired jeans line scape and presented an op- started rolling out. portunity to enter the market Karras and Richards’ mutual synergy was evi- with a premium-level product dent when they explained their ideas behind 4 line, dubbed Platinum. Stroke in its New York-based showroom. “We would have liked to be “Theo has the right look, a great attitude and in this market about 50 years she really gets these clothes,” Karras said. ago,” joked Khaitan. Richards joined in: “I get so happy when I can The Platinum collection’s de- just come up here and see what’s happening. Taso sign is inspired by British her- said that if I pay attention and learn how, in one aldry, featuring iconography year, he will let me design some things…if I’m such as lions and crowns, hand- good.” written logos, mother-of-pearl The line, which is being targeted to high-end buttons and a distinctive plati- specialty retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman and num-colored threading on skin- Fred Segal, includes jeans, skirts, jackets and a ny styles and boot-cut fi ts. The large selection of subtly logoed T-shirts. From the line uses a blend of Italian and gold buttons that look like guitar knobs to the con- Japanese denim and has incorpo- cert-ticket hangtags, each piece has some element rated Invista’s XFit Lycra to provide of music incorporated into it. stretch. The line also includes T-shirts, The collection’s staples are the four jeans styles: shirts, knitwear and accessories. Platinum features images and symbols of royalty. the Electric Circus, a skinny fi t; East Filmore, a The American debut will include six women’s boot-cut style; West Filmore, a low-rise boot cut, styles that retail between $120 and $200. The line made its and Avalon, a straight-leg style that comes with a fi rst appearance at Project Las Vegas this week, with Khaitan looking to limit orders to between 75 and 100 detachable single suspender. The suspender looks “select” retailers. like a guitar strap and is meant to be worn across “We’re not trying to make a big splash,” said Khaitan. “We want to get things right and get the brand image the chest, like a guitar. right, which is a function of accentuating our authenticity.” “The idea is to have subtle details with clean Khaitan believes British brands entering for- back pockets,” Karras said. “I don’t want the in- eign markets have tended to position their brands your-face logo.” in one of two ways. The fi rst Khaitan describes as The line wholesales from $21 for a garment- “aristocratic,” meaning a luxury positioning. The dyed T-shirt to $104 for a jacket. Karras said he ex- other he calls the “fl ag-waving” position, which pects to reach $3 million in fi rst-year sales. trades on a brand’s inherent Britishness and usu- — Julee Greenberg ally involves an overabundance of Union Jacks. Lee Cooper hopes to avoid both of these by highlighting the brand’s roots. Theodora Richards “We bring with us the attributes of the British models two looks working and middle classes and that authenticity,” from 4 Stroke. said Khaitan.“It’s part of our culture, and we’re hoping to infuse that in the market.” Targeting the premium denim market will allow for controlled growth, but perhaps more importantly will help prevent the brand from going head to head Levi’s Gets Interactive with Lee in its own backyard. Diehard Levi’s fans can become part of the “The attractiveness of the volume that’s possible company’s latest ad campaign because of a in the U.S., we don’t want to go there,” said Khaitan. new feature launched on the Levi’s Web site on “That temptation is an important one to resist… Wednesday. that’s an internal challenge really.” A Levi’s TV spot titled “News Story” that was Lee Cooper is available in 70 countries across released on July 5 begins with a young couple Europe, Asia, Africa, the Middle East and Latin sitting in their apartment at night taking only a America. For the U.S., Khaitan plans to expand the passing interest in a live televised police chase. line into between 300 and 350 stores over the next The male viewer snaps to attention when he real- three seasons. izes he’s watching the criminal snatch his Levi’s — Ross Tucker from the clothesline in the backyard. Within seconds, he bolts from his chair and ends the chase by tackling the criminal and wrestling his favorite jeans back. Visitors to the Levi’s Web site can now upload images of themselves, their friends or relatives and see their faces in the role of the PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Pepe Files Lawsuit criminal, disinterested girlfriend or obsessive denim lover. Pepe Jeans London and its licensee, Jean Design San Francisco-based Personiva, which special- Ltd., have fi led suit against a New Jersey company izes in using technology to personalize a brand for allegedly copying its designs. experience, approached Levi’s with the concept The suit, fi led Aug. 11 in Manhattan federal this year. court, accuses Fort Lee-based Fashion Studio LLC “The overall idea is to bring brands down to of trade dress infringement, false designation of the level of consumers, to put in the consumers’ origin and unfair competition. hand the ability to engage with a brand in ways According to the complaint, Fashion Studio, that are exciting and entertaining,” said Yogesh which also conducts business as Lot 29, manufac- Sharma, chief executive offi cer of Personiva. tured and sold jackets that were “clearly copied The company has worked with Hewlett-Packard from and are confusingly similar to the Pepe Jeans on a similar campaign and will launch a new fea- Trade Dress.” ture with Warner Bros. next week that will enable Fashion Studio LLC did not return calls seeking users to personalize Looney Toons animations. comment. Users who upload photos for the Levi’s ad can Pepe Jeans alleged in its complaint the infringe- further customize the pictures. More than a dozen ment was willful, citing a relationship between hairstyles may be added to a face, as well as addi- Fashion Studio’s owners and the principal of anoth- tional text. A new Levi’s feature called “Straight er company that purchased quantities of the Pepe Walk,” allowing similar customization, will be re- Jeans styles at issue. Pepe is seeking an injunction leased in several weeks. and an unspecifi ed amount in monetary damages. — R.T. — Liza Casabona 10 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM

over 60 changes, a signifi cant number contest where fi ve girls could have an Hilary Duff which were factual changes, from a near opportunity to help Rubenstein edit an fi nal draft to the fi nal version,” she said in upcoming issue. Rubenstein notes the MEMO PAD an e-mail. — Irin Carmon winners will contribute ideas, but not participate to the level that Duff did: “They WHERE’D THEY GO?: At last weekend’s IN HER SHOES: Hilary Duff is going where no won’t be coming to New York.” Seventeen. Hamptons book party for Ed Kosner, most one has gone since Atoosa Rubenstein took com will feature a cheerful video greeting recently the editor of The New York Daily over Seventeen in summer 2003. The pint- from Duff about the special issue and how News, it was a safe bet more guests had sized actress set up camp in Rubenstein’s to subscribe. Future cover models Teddy shown up for the lark of partying two doors offi ce for three days while she guest Geiger and Paris Hilton also will be featured away from the house of Daily News owner edited the October issue, on newsstands in similar interactive promotions. Mort Zuckerman — reputedly savaged in Tuesday. Duff, Seventeen’s fi rst-ever guest Nevertheless, it’s ironic Rubenstein Kosner’s new memoir — than had actually editor under Rubenstein, was named opened her offi ce to contributors as three of cracked open the book. After all, as WWD editor in chief on the October masthead; her longtime teammates depart. Executive reported in May, galleys of Kosner’s “It’s Rubenstein, meanwhile, relegated herself editor Leslie Heilbrunn left her post to News to Me” had him calling his old boss to the role of Hilary’s Helper. attend culinary school, while health editor a “notorious screamer” who “nickel-and- Of course, the hands-on Rubenstein was Tula Karras, who had been working three dimed his editors” and “ran the paper like hesitant to put her magazine at the fi ngers days a week, left as the magazine beefs a corner store.” But readers of the bound of another editor, much less a celebrity. up its fi tness coverage in January. Style edition will fi nd a newer, softer Kosner — “I was making light of it, thinking she director Beau Quillian also will leave after one who no longer subjects Zuckerman to was going to be a big bonehead, but I was Labor Day as the magazine’s art direction any of the above-quoted epithets. Nor does totally shocked at the girl I encountered,” becomes more forward and less American the former editor remark in the published said Rubenstein of Duff’s role. Duff also Eagle catalogue. But Rubenstein recently book that “Mort hardly ever appeared in was qualifi ed for the job being that she hired former Allure deputy editor Jillian the newsroom lest some disgruntled staffer is an 18-year-old girl transitioning to a Mackenzie as executive editor and Melissa let him have it,” as he did in the galleys. woman, just like Seventeen’s readers. “This Daly, formerly nutrition editor at Fitness, to Moreover, in the previous version, is a girl who could connect to our reader,” become deputy editor, before the hallways Kosner recalled his wife, the novelist Julie said the 34-year-old Rubenstein. “I’m not became too desolate. — Stephanie D. Smith Baumgold, telling Zuckerman to “stop acting quite there at the precipice like she is.” like a son of a bitch.” The recollection Moreover, Rubenstein was in the offi ce eBay charity handbag auction supporting CHANGING DESKS: Edward Menicheschi’s in the book is sans “son of a bitch,” now for just one of the three days Duff was three cancer organizations, Duff chose appointment as vice president and reading: “‘Stop torturing Ed,’ [Baumgold] “working,” which also likely helped smooth the charities and helped wrangle celebrity publisher of Vanity Fair earlier this commanded.” the transition of power. participants. (Her infl uence is felt in the month is leaving a wake of new hires and Zuckerman isn’t the only one to get While Duff did not line edit manuscripts, ad pages, as well — a promotion for Duff’s departures at 4 Times Square. The latest milder treatment in the fi nal edition — on she sat in on editorial meetings, worked new fragrance, With Love, is coincidentally change is Karin Tracy, who soon will leave page 284, Kosner’s own stint as editor with editors on fashion shoots and featured within the fashion well.) her position as advertising director at Teen of Esquire in the Nineties gets a new contributed advice and tidbits throughout Since a teen magazine these days Vogue to become associate publisher at descriptor: from “failure” to “detour.” Seventeen’s pages. Duff was especially cannot exist without fl ashy Internet Lucky magazine. Tracy replaces Agnes Said Kosner, “The published book speaks passionate about doing a piece on money offerings — see Elle Girl’s and Teen Chapski, who left Lucky to join Vanity Fair for itself.” management with fi nancial expert Suze People’s shutterings to refocus on the Web as associate publisher for advertising. A spokeswoman for Zuckerman, Orman and providing excerpts of her — the October issue has a ton of digital Chapski is taking over for Ginger Sutton, who meanwhile, claimed Wednesday that favorite book, “The Prophet.” She created accoutrements. AOL shot behind-the- departed soon after Menicheschi joined Kosner repeatedly plays loose with the a Most Embarrassing Moments page with scenes footage of Duff’s offi ce experience Vanity Fair. A Teen Vogue spokeswoman facts in the book to bolster his stature. responses from A-list celebrities. And on its three channels while the magazine’s said the magazine has not fi lled Tracy’s “We’ve heard that Kosner apparently made for the magazine’s Sept. 14 to Sept. 23 MySpace page will launch a guest-editing position. — Amy Wicks Topshop Settles, Targets U.S. opshop, the U.K. retailer, is that he had found a potential site Treigniting its American ex- for a New York store, he said he pansion plans after settling a now will have to restart the pro- suit over rights to the Topshop cess. At this stage, it is unclear name in the U.S. whether the fi rst Topshop store in Arcadia, the parent of the fast- America will be in New York. He fashion retailer, was sued in U.S. hopes to open a store in America District Court for the Southern within the next year. District of New York last month “There are points for and by Nevada Apparel Corp., a against,” Green said. “New York New York-based women’s cloth- has an element of safety but some ing company, which claimed it experienced U.S. retailers tell me owned the mark in the U.S. it isn’t a good proving ground for Philip Green, Arcadia’s owner, the rest of the U.S. But what we said Wednesday the litigation has have received over the last few now been settled. Nevada has weeks is signifi cant interest from agreed to relinquish its claim to major U.S. retailers in partnering the Topshop name and to trans- with us in the U.S. We are think- fer all its rights to Arcadia. The ing that they could take a 10 to 20 settlement has been approved percent interest in the American your denim Specialist by the court. Green declined to operation and help us with such disclose terms of the settlement. things as staffi ng and logistics and Extra Soft Denim Peter Sloane, an attorney with we are prepared to discuss that.” Ostrolenk, Faber, Gerb & Soffen Meanwhile, Topshop is push- Estex Denim is woven with our new extra LLP, which represented Nevada ing forward with plans to launch soft high bulk yarn which generates, Apparel, also declined to com- a new platform for its Web site. It without special finishing, fabrics with a ment on the agreement. currently has a transactional Web clean surface and extra soft handle. Estex is “We are now in control of the site in the U.K., but Green said also available in Organic, Pima and Stretch. brand,” Green told WWD. “But the retailer hopes to launch a new what this litigation did was to re- version that would enable over- veal the vast amount of interest seas consumers to buy from the www.centralfabrics.com from all sectors in Topshop com- site. The updated Web site should ing to America.” go live before Christmas, he said. Green revealed in June that As for speculation that Green Topshop was planning to open a might step into the bidding store in the U.S., probably in New for David’s Bridal, the retail York, as soon as next spring. The chain being sold by Federated store will aim to replicate the Department Stores, the British Topshop fl agship in London, and executive dismissed it. “I don’t will be 60,000 to 90,000 square feet know anyone named David who’s in size. Topshop then would ex- getting married,” he quipped. pand into other areas of the U.S. Nevada Apparel plans to re- The billionaire retail tycoon brand its Top shop women’s wear. said the London store has been “Nevada looks forward to con- performing strongly in the last tinuing to serve that customer few weeks, with double-digit base with fashionable women’s

Control Union Certifications comp-store sales increases over apparel,” said Robert C. Faber, a Certificate No: C803700OE-07.2005 a year ago. partner at Ostrolenk, Faber, Gerb While Green indicated in June & Soffen, in a statement. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 11 WWD.COM Though there are changes in the executive suite among vendors, there is still lots of jingle in executive pockets. For example, Phillips-Van Heusen veteran Mark TheWWDList Weber stepped down this year as chief executive offi cer after only eight months, but still collected a sizable paycheck. The message is that bonuses these days go with the executive territory, especially for top performers. Ralph Lauren’s $15 million bonus for piloting his company to signifi cant profi t growth is the winner in that category. Still, more conditions, such as non-compete clauses, are being added to employment contracts, noted Elaine Hughes, president of executive Fashionably Paid search fi rm E.A. Hughes. “People are trying to hang onto key executives with contracts,” she said. Another change afoot, she noted, is the appearance of stay Apparel executives of U.S. publicly held companies with the highest annual bonuses given during company transitions. — Constance Gustke compensation packages, including salary and bonus, but not long-term incentives.

RALPH LAUREN, 66, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $16.14 million; percent change: 12.2 Salary: $1 million; bonus: $15 million; other annual compensation: $137,740 The designer tops the list for the second year in a row, thanks to his company’s ongoing growth — Polo Ralph Lauren scored a 62 percent proﬁ t gain last year. The reason: retail and international expansion, expansion of categories such as footwear and handbags and strong licensing sales. 1 This year looks equally golden. Polo added new fragrances to its line and bought a footwear unit from Reebok. “Demand for our luxury products around the world is accelerating,” Lauren said in February.

ROBERT MARGOLIS, 58, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, CHEROKEE INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $4.44 million; percent change: 5.6 Salary: $760,000; bonus: $3.68 million Head honcho since 1995, Margolis has helped forge the company’s strong growth. Cherokee mainly licenses trademark brands, and half its merchandise is sold through Target. The company tried to buy Mossimo this year, but instead ended up walking away with a $33 million fee paid by 2 the ﬁ nal winner, Iconix.

PETER BONEPARTH, 46, PRESIDENT AND CEO, JONES APPAREL GROUP 2005 total annual compensation: $3.96 million; percent change: -13.9 Salary: $2.5 million; bonus: $1.2 million; other annual compensation: $265,016 The former investment banker has had a rocky road since taking over Jones Apparel in 2002. In addition to steady proﬁ t declines — including last year — Jones recently had another setback when a planned sale of the company produced no acceptable bids. Thus Boneparth’s bonus, partially 3 tied to proﬁ ts and earnings, tumbled last year.

REED KRAKOFF, 42, PRESIDENT AND EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, COACH INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.81 million; percent change: 26.8 Salary: $1.21 million; bonus: $2.26 million; other annual compensation: $345,822 The man behind Coach’s new looks bounded onto the list this year. Krakoff’s formula: price, fashion and fabrication, which helped propel Coach’s proﬁ ts up 48.5 percent last year. The next project is Legacy shops, scheduled to roll out in September, for which Krakoff tried his hand at shooting 4 the ad campaign.

ROGER FARAH, 53, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.73 million; percent change: 13.2 Salary: $900,000; bonus: $2.83 million The Polo luster also has rubbed off on Farah, who praises its “fabulous products” for the company’s stellar results. And he protects the brand 5 as much as Ralph Lauren: Farah revealed plans to close the U.S. Polo jeans operation next year, after buying the business for $255 million in February. His comment: the jeans were “run down a bit, overpromoted and overdistributed.” Farah’s employment contract, including an annual incentive bonus, was extended until 2010 a few years ago.

BRUCE J. KLATSKY, 57, CHAIRMAN AND FORMER CEO, PHILLIPS-VAN HEUSEN CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.72 million; percent change: 7.2 Salary: $1.2 million; bonus: $2.5 million Despite stepping down as ceo last year, Klatsky’s momentum carried PVH through another strong sales year. Klatsky handpicked his successor, Mark Weber, a longtime associate, to follow in his footsteps. Though Weber stepped down as ceo this year, Klatsky has said that he’ll stay on as 6 chairman. Klatsky helped drive the acquisition of Calvin Klein Inc., which he says has the potential to generate between $5 billion and $6 billion in global revenues.

MARK WEBER, 57, FORMER CEO, PHILLIPS-VAN HEUSEN CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $3.15 million; percent change: 34.1 Salary: $1.06 million; bonus: $1.92 million Weber only served as head of PVH for eight months before being let go by the company’s board. The reason, said sources, was that his aggressive, 7 micromanaging style created clashes. This year he’ll reap a golden parachute worth at least $8 million (or three times his average base salary and bonus), and he is said to be in the running for the ceo post at Donna Karan International.

PAUL CHARRON, 63, CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD AND CEO, LIZ CLAIBORNE 2005 total annual compensation: $2.81 million; percent change: -37 Salary: $1.5 million; bonus: $1.12 million Charron is lauded by retailers for his focus on merchandising and marketing as well as execution. But the past year was lackluster, which was the 8 reason for the decline in his total pay. Charron has set many changes in motion, such as cutting $60 million in costs and laying off 500 employees. His employment contract ends in December, and the race is on to ﬁ nd a successor.

JACKWYN NEMEROV, 54, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.79 million; percent change: 95.6 Salary: $900,000; bonus: $1.89 million A top executive at Polo since 2004, Nemerov sprints onto the list this year. Formerly a president at Jones Apparel Group until 2002, Nemerov was slapped with a lawsuit by her former employer. It sought to enforce the non-compete conﬁ dentiality agreement in her employment contract. Jones 9 alleged that when Nemerov resigned, she took “conﬁ dential Jones information on the Lauren line and then misused the information as a consultant for Polo.” Polo’s response: the case had no merit. The disagreement was resolved earlier this year, the company said.

ROBERT B. MCKNIGHT JR., 52, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, QUIKSILVER INC. 2005 total annual compensation: $2.6 million; percent change: -17.7 Salary: $880,000; bonus: $1.66 million The company founder who once sold Quiksilver’s surfer wares on California boardwalks, McKnight has presided over strong company growth. 10 Last year, proﬁ ts rose more than 30 percent. McKnight’s bonus took a hit, however, due to accounting changes and how bonuses are reported at Quiksilver.

SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS AND FILINGS 12 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 Rebuilding Begins for Mid s the fragile peace continues to hold in Lebanon and Israel, the The Old City of Jerusalem welcomed a return of A region’s apparel, retail and textile normal busy life Aug. 19, the fi rst weekend after companies have been assessing the dam- the U.N.-brokered truce came into force. age, adding up their losses and trying to get back on their feet. Lebanese retailers said it will take months before retailing and tourism re- cover and that they’re working out plans with their suppliers. They say their open- to-buys for the next few seasons will be signifi cantly lower. Israeli manufacturers noted that despite disruptions to their businesses, production schedules have returned to normal, although some have had to use more costly shipping methods. Stores in Israel that were shuttered have since reopened. Despite the cease-fi re declaration on Aug. 14, organizers of the Beirut Fashion 2006 trade fair have postponed the 11th annual event, which had been scheduled to take place Sept. 12-15. A spokeswoman said new dates have yet to be decided. The fair, showcasing women’s, men’s and children’s clothing, accessories and textiles, is promoted to trade buyers from Syria, Jordan, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates and other Gulf states. We were hit really “hard, but we hope that we’ll be back on track by November or at least XINHUA/LANDOV PHOTO BY before December. — Tony Salamé, Lebanese” retailer

“The war in Lebanon affected not only the apparel industry, but the entire eco- nomic sector in Lebanon,” said the spokeswoman. “But now after the cease-fi re… every industry is trying not only to become fully operational in the business sense, but also equipped to move ahead with the rebuilding of the country and its economy.” Normally, the show attracts about 10,000 visitors from 30 countries and features ex- hibitors from France, Germany, Turkey, the United States, India and the U.K. Beirut retailers also continue to strug- gle, despite the cease-fi re, although they remain hopeful business will pick up gradually over the next few months. “Back to normal? Not at all,” said Cyn Farah, owner of three IF boutiques in Beirut, which carry such labels as Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten. “The whole town is empty. It’s still a catastrophe at this moment. The cease-fi re is very fragile.” “It’s quite empty right now,” agreed Raya Dernaika, a partner in Plum, a 900- square-foot boutique selling designs by Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen and others. “Some people have ventured back into the city, but the mood is not there. People are waiting for devel- opments. We have two or three customers a day, which is nothing.” At present, Plum is selling leftover spring and summer merchandise at a 60 Shopping in Lebanon this week. PHOTO BY REUTERS/JAMAL SAIDI/LANDOVPHOTO BY percent discount, and Dernaika said her main objective is to try and get fall ship- to buy early fall shipments, “so basically “The good thing is the Lebanese peo- a month,” he explained. “The damage is ments into the store as quickly as pos- the season is over for us. But we will start ple, they bounce back very quickly usu- huge because the summer is Beirut’s bus- sible. again next spring.” ally,” added Dernaika. iest retail period, and we’re now stuck The Beirut airport, which closed on Both women said the confl ict would Luxury retailer Tony Salamé Finance with a big percentage of summer goods.” July 13, remains closed to the major- not impede buying trips abroad this fall reopened its designer boutiques and spe- During the confl ict, the fi rm kept ac- ity of fl ights. Two airlines, however, are for spring 2007 collections. However, they cialty stores in Lebanon on Aug. 21. “We tive by opening several small outlets in operating between Amman and Beirut. agreed it would take time for normalcy to were hit really hard, but we hope that hotels selling T-shirts and jeans so that Dernaika said the situation is more return to the once-vibrant city. we’ll be back on track by November or at “people didn’t forget about doing some complicated for cargo planes, so rout- “Day to day, we’re monitoring the situ- least before December,” said owner Tony shopping.” Salamé also continued paying ing goods through Jordan, an expensive ation,” Farah said. “I think it will take Salamé, adding other luxury retailers in suppliers in order to keep the business proposition, is viewed as one last-ditch two or three seasons for the business to the country should be fully operational running. “We kept all our staff, whereas option. get back to normal, for tourists to be con- by then as well. a lot of other companies have no employ- Farah said she normally depends on fi dent to return. There has to be a solid “Fortunately, none of our stores ees left now.” tourists in July, August and September peace agreement with our neighbors.” were hit, but nearly all were closed for While he intends to proceed with WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 13 ddle East Apparel IndustryWWD.COM buying trips this fall, Salamé said his buying budget would be down by between 30 to 40 percent. But with the help of suppliers, Salamé will continue to buy conservatively. “I am traveling in September to see suppliers. Most of them want to contribute in some way, either by offering discounts or they want to retrieve unsold summer goods and trade them for new goods.” Salamé remains optimistic, going ahead with a store opening in Dubai in September as well as continuing with plans to open three boutiques in Beirut, originally slated for August. “We are Aïshti, a multiunit retailer in Lebanon, advertises a 60 percent off sale. working on the sites, and they’re going to be delayed for two months,” he said. Elie Saab to normal in his Beirut-based ate- Retailers said they were waiting to Encouraging customers back into lier, but that it will take between fi ve see what back-to-school sales would be stores will be a main focus in the months and six months to pick up completely. like in the northern cities, since school to come. Salamé said his boutiques are “People are still concerned and wor- is scheduled to begin on Friday across offering big discounts and gifts with pur- ried. Unfortunately, they won’t come to the country. chases. “The main pull at these kinds of Lebanon until everything will be stabi- “Things here in Israel are back to times is a bigger discount, especially on lized,” he said. normal, almost as if the war did not take unsold items from last season.” Like others in the industry, Murad la- place,” said Asaf Alperovitz, chief fi nan- Last week, the fi rm began advertise- mented the war’s impact on the country’s cial officer at seamless manufacturer ments in Lebanon’s daily newspapers booming economy. “It has hampered Tefron. “to let people know that we are open as one of the best seasons in the history of With its main manufacturing facility usual. You have to try to be optimistic Lebanon.” He said recovery would de- located in Karmiel, a northern Israeli and do some advertising. We don’t have pend on the availability of international city hard hit by the Katyusha rockets any choice.” funds to help all sectors, including retail, launched from Lebanon by Hezbollah, Lebanese couture designer Zuhair get back to business as usual. the publicly traded Tefron relocated Murad said business is getting back Lebanese couturier Elie Saab said many of its employees to its more cen- Things here in Israel are back to normal, almost as if the war did not take place. “ ” — Asaf Alperovitz, Tefron

the cease-fi re has eased tension for his trally located plants, setting up transpor- Beirut-based seamstresses, who are on tation and bomb-shelter operations for track to have his spring collection ready its workers and their families. for the Paris runway in October. The same was true for Delta Galil, a However, he noted the conflict oc- manufacturer of private label garments curred during a key moment in the so- for companies such as DKNY, Calvin cial calendar, since July, August and Klein, J. Crew, Target and Wal-Mart. The September are typically favored months company set up bomb-shelter day camps for weddings. “All the big marriages that for its employees’ children in the city of were planned for Lebanon were can- Karmiel, where it also has a manufactur- celed,” he said. ing facility, allowing work to continue Saab said he would be able to recoup with few interruptions. sales in other markets; however, he said “It’s over a week since the cease- it will take time for Beirut, which had be- fi re, and we’re still saying ‘business as come a magnet for tourists, to reclaim its usual,’” said Esti Maoz, a vice president appeal to foreigners. of marketing and development at Delta, In Israel, meanwhile, retailers and last week. “We’re really feeling extra mo- manufacturers there said business is tivation and enthusiasm in all our units back to normal. and all the necessary optimism.” “We’re back to our regular production According to the fairly typical positive schedule, working to fi ll all our orders,” Israeli attitude, most manufacturers were said Michal Schnabel, chief operating similarly optimistic, using the popular offi cer at Teva Naot, a kibbutz shoe com- saying, “It will be OK,” to describe their pany that sells to the U.S., Canada and reactions during and after the confl ict. Europe. Are they worried about what will happen With its factory located in Kibbutz if the confl ict renews itself and the Haifa Neot Mordechai, in northern Israel, the port is closed again? Not really, they re- company had to receive permission for sponded. 60 staffers — including management — For now, all manufacturers are back to remain at the factory throughout the to using the Haifa port for shipments, war. At the time, Teva Naot was prepar- although the country’s main port was ing for several important shows, one in partially closed for several weeks dur- Las Vegas, and “the main pressure was ing the confl ict. At the time, companies to get the collection there on time,” said diverted shipments to the smaller, south- Schnabel. “If you don’t get there, the ern Ashdod port and sent shipments by whole year can be affected.” plane, a more expensive option. For retailers, the major effect of But not everyone was as optimistic. the confl ict was the closing of several Yael Levy is the president of Roni Rabl malls in the country’s north, necessi- Knits, which is based in Manhattan, al- tating the closing of stores in the cities though the entire Roni Rabl line is de- of Haifa, Kiryat Bialik, Karmiel and signed and made in Israel. Given that Nazareth Illit. Castro, a local retailer shipments by sea take three weeks to ar- of women’s and men’s clothing with 82 rive and air shipments require a week, stores throughout Israel, had to close she ended up using air shipments for the less than a dozen stores in those cities start of her fall collection, back in July. during the confl ict. The company also Now that the war is over, her next ship- hosted some of its northern staffers ment is due to leave the Haifa port in down south, but all the stores reopened September, and she’s hoping the cease- in early August. fi re will hold. At Ronen Chen, a chain of designer “For now, the cease-fi re means noth- boutiques with several stores up north, ing as it’s too early to tell how long it will “business is picking up, and we’re putting stay,” Levy said. “You can only believe it Clean up in Beirut’s southern new collections in the store this week,” when you see it.” suburbs is a major project. said marketing manager Michal Chitayat. — Miles Socha, Ellen Groves

UPI PHOTO/NORBERT SCHILLER/LANDOV UPI PHOTO/NORBERT “Business is ﬁ ne, knock on wood.” and Jessica Steinberg 14 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM

inspiration from Agatha Christie’s Next of Kin: Lancôme Signs “Murder on the Orient Express” and celebrate its two years in Fashion Scoops business. Among the 150 guests expected are Beyoncé, Patricia Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann LIVING LARGE: As if last weekend’s Hollywood. The supper club is Clarkson, Robin Tunney, Padma Emmys and satellite parties restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow’s Lakshmi and Katie Joel. ancôme has a new leading light. weren’t enough on her already latest $12 million door and his L The L’Oréal-owned beauty brand has inked an agreement piled-high plate, stylist Rachel Zoe fi rst on the West Coast. Guests CHARRON’S SIGN: Get your piece with Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann — the 23-year-old daughter of threw herself an extravagant fete Keira Knightley, Lindsay Lohan, of Paul Charron before he retires Lancôme’s longtime face, actress and model Isabella Rossellini on Friday night: a birthday party Robert Downey Jr. (who arrived as chairman and chief executive — to be the spokeswoman for its fragrance, skin care and cosmetics with a serious dress code in the wearing a natty brim) and a newly offi cer of Liz Claiborne Inc. at products, WWD has learned. upstairs VIP quarters of Social married Jenni Kayne came to the end of the year. For just Rossellini Wiedemann will appear in advertising for numerous celebrate their pal, while Dewey $9.99, a signed photo of the Lancôme products, the fi rst of which will be skin care at the end of Rachel Zoe Nicks shot the rollicking evening manufacturing icon can be yours, this year in Asia. More ads featuring Rossellini Wiedemann are set to exclusively for Harper’s Bazaar’s thanks to the world of eBay. This start breaking worldwide in January. November issue. That was probably bit of posterity has been on sale Other terms of her deal with Lancôme were not disclosed. good news to many who really let for almost a month, but no bids Rossellini Wiedemann joins a parade of beauties in her new position. it all hang out as the clock ticked have been posted yet. The seller, For mer Lancôme faces besides Rossellini (who held the title longest) past midnight and Nicks stored Autographed Cards, has thousands include Uma Thurman, away his camera. Other friends of autographed offerings — Juliette Binoche, Marie of Zoe, who was draped in a including one from Liz Claiborne Gillain, Cristiana Reali and chocolate Hermès goddess gown, herself, which was posted Monday BEAUTY BEAT Ines Sastre. included Mischa Barton, Nicole night — that go for anywhere from Isabella Rossellini fi rst Richie, Jessica Biel and Mary-Kate $1 to $10,000. signed a modeling contract with Lancôme in 1982 and was the brand’s Olsen. “You only turn 25 twice!” face for 14 years. She is the daughter of fi lm industry icons Roberto howled the thirtysomething Zoe. Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman. With such lineage, Rossellini Wiedemann is neither a stranger to ACCESSORIES MAISON: Be&D is the camera nor to Lancôme. hoping to stir up some intrigue on Wednesday when the handbag brand is honored by the National Arts Club at a party, to be held at its mansion at 18 Gramercy Park South in New York, titled “Mystery at the National Arts Club.” The party is part of the 108-year- old organization’s First Annual Accessories Presentation, a new series that aims to showcase accessories designers who seek to elevate fashion into an art form. Be&D will be taking over the Victorian suites on the second fl oor of the mansion to unveil A picture of Paul Charron selling its spring bags, which take their on eBay.

Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann

Her own modeling career was kicked off three years ago. She has been in fashion shows for brands such as Alberta Ferretti, Bill Blass and Diane von Furstenberg and in magazines such as Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and German Vogue. Rossellini Wiedemann has been shot by Bruce Weber, among other top photographers, and been in advertising campaigns, for names like Salvatore Ferragamo and Catherine Malandrino. Concerning what Lancôme means to her, Rossellini Wiedemann said in an exclusive WWD interview, “It is different things as you grow older. The luxury of having ﬁ ve minutes to myself is rare. Lancôme is there for that, either at the beginning or the end of the day. “It’s all about perspective,” she continued. “I remember being very young, sitting on the ﬂ oor during photo shoots for Lancôme while my mother was getting her makeup done, or sitting on the bathroom sink when we were at home and she was applying different creams at night. In a way, Lancôme has been present throughout my life. When I smell the products and use them, it brings back so many personal memories. Also, Lancôme represents a variety of things, including quality, glamour, sophistication. “I’ve always loved taking care of my skin,” said Rossellini Wiedemann. “It is an integral part of my job.” Asked how it feels to basically step into her mother’s shoes as the Instant Access face of Lancôme, Rossellini Wiedemann replied, “at first I was both tre- In a 24/7 world, WWD is as easy as scroll, click, tap. mendously excited and very nervous. The fact that my mother had such a long relationship with the brand made me feel like I really had to step up to the plate and not only make my family proud, but also everyone at Lancôme. After I met the amazing team there and did the first shoot, though, I felt much more confident and relaxed. Now I’m just excited.” She added that her mother’s way of looking at the brand has had little impact on her vision. “I remember my mother using and talking about the products, but a lot has changed at Lancôme since she worked for them more than 10 years ago. I’m working with a completely new team of people and representing a new set of products.” And although Rossellini ended her unusually long run at Lancôme amid a whiff of controversy stoked by charges that she was the victim of ageism, she seemed cheered by her daughter’s news. “Excited doesn’t cover it,” Rossellini Wiedemann said. “When I told her the news, she said, ‘I couldn’t be more happy if you had told me you were getting married or having a child.’ Spoken like the true businesswoman she is!” Rossellini Wiedemann, whose bloodline includes German ancestry on her father’s side and Italian and Scandinavian on her mother’s, is a New Yorker studying politics, history and economics at the New School University. This summer, as part of her interest in environmen- talism, she is working in Africa at a center for elephant preservation. “Due to her cosmopolitan background, Elettra is a young woman Subscribe now. Go to WWD.com, for group subscriptions call 212.630.4069. of her time…and always remains in touch with the world around her,” said Odile Roujol, general manager of Lancôme International, in a statement. WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

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We offer (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS req’s & job code FAD510 ented and self motivated individual. competitive salary and benefits pack- All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. when responding. Knowledge of design & production a +. age, including 401K, PTO, and a Stock E/O/E Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fax resume and salary to 212-391-2159 Purchase Plan. Some travel required. or E-mail: [email protected]. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Fax: 212-221-3857 Please e-mail or fax resumes to: E: [email protected] Account Executive PRODUCTIONS [email protected] FABRIC BUYER $55K F: (215) 633-2440. Willow Creek, ladies intimate apparel Full service shop to the trade. Follow-up on PO’s on Lab Dips co, seeks an AE with min 5 yrs selling Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] 212-947-3400 exp. Must have product development Product Development experience, self-motivated and willing Sales Executive PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Buyer Manager to travel. 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Great sourcing for tweens division. 2 yrs unbranded & private label activewear for experience a must. Great opportunity. [email protected] benefits including medical & dental. Fax:(212)643-0684 Men & Women as well as food & beverage Fax resume, attn. Cathy (631) 673-6744 Email resume to: [email protected] NY SALES POSITION products in a multi-unit environment. or Fax: 212-643-0684 MISS CHIEVOUS CLOTHING Responsibilities include the selection, Jr. Separate Tops/2 yrs exp. negotiation and purchase of approved Graphic Production Assistant w/specialty and Dept. Stores needed merchandise. Additional responsibilities Min. 1 year in production. Must be send resume to fx 213-488-0624 or require sourcing new and reviewing computer literate, organized and detail [email protected] THE LIRIC GROUP existing merchandise to ensure products Casual sportswear private label oriented. Fax resume to Mike: 212-279-2460 SPECIALTY STORE SALES remain competitive and consistent with company is seeking a talented Busy multi line showroom seeks strong Allocations national brand position. Successful Sales Assistant exp’d. salesperson to join our team. candidates will posses: GRAPHIC ARTIST Production Coordinator Fast-paced Children’s Apparel Co. has Email Resume to: [email protected] Inventory Management Exciting high-end women’s apparel •BA with a concentration in business Opening for Sales Asst for existing Intimate apparel co. seeks person w/ 3 Candidate should possess knowledge company seeks efficient, organized, Wal-Mart acct. Resp. include working and/or merchandising of Photoshop and Illustrator; Color savvy, resourceful person to manage yrs. exp. a must! Strong follow up. MS •MBA preferred closely with prod, design, full under- office/EXCEL knowledge required. Matters cad system is a plus. Relative production for growing business standing of compliances and approval •Experience setting up Open-to-Buy working experience of 2+ years is volume. Experience required. Fax resume: (212) 532-8707 Att:Barbara procedures for all categories as well process & knowledge of retail analysis. required. We welcome self-motivated Please fax resume to: 212-239-4006 or Domestic travel, 3 years Exp Req’d. as preparing merchandise assortment E-mail: [email protected] ASSISTANT DESIGNER plans for multiple locations candidates who are good team players. Great Oppty. Fax 212 967 8631 CC Leading better separates co. looking •Experience as a merchandise and Email resumes and salary history to SAMPLEMAKERS for organized, motivated, creative fire- floor planner [email protected] 6 yrs exp in designer /couture evening- cracker willing to do whatever it takes, •Superior written, verbal and computer with ’Graphic Artist’ in subject wear. Chiffon & delicate fabrics. Sales Executive must have experience- 2 years with skills (Excel and Word) Please call: 212-764-0840 China, drawing skills, spec, sketch, •Prior budget control required Seeking a dynamic Sales Professional technical packages, EMB layouts. •Staff responsibilities required Home/ Decor Designers with at least 3 years experience with Construction knowledge of lamp & SPEC TECH - Freelance Fax resume to 212-302-3872/ Natasha Qualified candidates should send leading Specialty & Dept. Stores in the bedding A+. Must have Photo/Illus. Lingerie company needs spec tech for Women’s Designer Sportswear Market. resume with salary requirement to: NY location. approx 6 hrs, 2-3 times a week. Be able ASST DESIGNER [email protected] Must be motivated, organized, and possess Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 to measure garments correctly & record excellent presentation, communication, Seeking experienced and well *Only resumes with salary requirements measurements. Min. 1 yr. exp. specing. organized assistant designer for and computer skills. Will be responsible will be considered. EOE/AA/M/F/V/D Pls. e-mail resume with hourly wage to: for maintaining and growing existing leading manufacturer of social occasion INVOICING/ORDER ENTRY [email protected] dresses. Must be experienced w/sample Knowledge AIMS. accounts and opening new ones. We look room, computer literate, able to work Fax resume: 212-704-4340 or forward to hearing from you. Fax resume in fast-paced design room and have CONTROLLER NEEDED email [email protected] with salary history to: 212-391-2142 knowledge of garment construction Growing infant wear company seeks a Technical Design and consumption. Candidate must be controller w/at least 10 years exp. Must LINGERIE & SLEEPWEAR COMPANY Assistant Knitwear motivated, creative, able to multi-task be very organized, and efficient. Can- HAS 2 OPENINGS: and work well within the design team didate will have BA/BS in accounting. Experienced First Patternmaker 525 America Sales Executive to meet deadlines. Email resume in Please fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Pls. have recent exp. with bras, panties, Knitwear co. seeks Assistant for Successful European clothing line confidence to: & sleepwear. Swimwear & eveningwea r technical design and production. seeks an Experienced, Dynamic, and [email protected] exp. also acceptable as well as knowledge Candidates should possess working Highly Motivated Sales Executive with of construction. knowledge of the following: tech 4-5 yrs experience. Must have strong, Experienced Lingerie Samplemaker packs, production specs, fittings, and established contacts with dept stores & Data Entry/Cstmr. Srvc./EDI Pls. have recent exp. sewing constructed lab dips. Great opportunity for recent boutiques. Great work environment! garments (corsets/bras), ability to work design graduate. Salary and benefits For immediate consideration, please Seeking exp’d., detail oriented individual. in friendly fast paced environment. commensurate with experience. Aria system a +. Fax or E-mail resume: email your resume: [email protected] Pls. e-mail resume & salary requirements Please fax resume to: 212-921-5069 or Fax 646-733-2212. 212-515-2424 / [email protected] to: [email protected] Order Entry/Sales Asst Children’s Sleep wear co seeks order entry/sales assistant w/min 2 yrs exp. Responsibilities include: order place- ment, account follow-up and interface DATA/ORDER ENTRY w/ Design and Production personnel. Ideal candidate must be organized, EDI COORDINATOR detail oriented and thrives in a multi- 7th Ave Co. seeks candidates w/ extensive faceted, fast paced environment, and knowl. of all aspects of Order must have experience working with Processing/EDI Transactions & AS400 major retailers, such as Target, Sears, system. Must have at least 3 yrs exp. in JC Penney, and Kohl’s. Excellent ben- the garment industry. Be able to trouble efits. Fax resume to: (212) 683-7619 shoot & can help w/ customer service. Pls email resumes to: [email protected] or Order Processing / fax to 509-757-7814 Customer Service Fast paced Junior Import Co. Motivated, organized, good follow-up, strong computer skills: Outlook/Excel, Data Entry, DESIGNER ASSISTANTS Aria or AS400 exp a plus. E-mail resume : JUNIOR Knits-1-2 year exp. Lab dips- [email protected] color-spec sheets, etc. Illustrator Call 212-643-8090 Fax: 643-8127 agcy Make money while having fun, playing with makeup and hanging out with friends.

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Go to meetmark.com to become a mark Representative. WWWDWDMUSICSECTION II Bling’s european charm fashion gets label-conscious stage beauties The new faces of opera Let’s dance

sky’s the limit With an album and ﬁ lm set for release, and several soundtrack credits to her name—not to mention a Hollywood pedigree—Sky Fisk is a star on the rise. Here, she wears a Prada viscose dress and Erickson Beamon necklace that suit her busy lifestyle and down-to-earth nature. For more on Fisk and other burgeoning talents, see pages 6 to 12.

Featuring Vera Wang Lavender Label Dress and Vera Wang Fine Jewelry. ©2006 Coty Prestige / Vera Wang® and Vera Wang Princess™ owned by V.E.W., Ltd. www.verawangprincessbeauty.com a newspiritinfragrance WWDMUSIC/SECTION II Madonna WWD.COM

Nominees for the 2006 MTV Video Music Awards:

VIDEO OF THE YEAR Christina Aguilera: “Ain’t No Other Man” Madonna: “Hung Up” Panic! at the Disco: “I Write Sins Not Tragedies” Red Hot Chili Peppers: “Dani California” Shakira featuring Wyclef Jean: “Hips Don’t Lie”

BEST MALE VIDEO Busta Rhymes featuring Mary J. Shakira and Wyclef Jean Blige, Rah Digga, Missy Elliott, Lloyd Banks, Papoose & DMX: “Touch It Remix” Beyonce James Blunt: “You’re Beautiful” Kanye West featuring Jamie Foxx: “Gold Digger” Nick Lachey: “What’s Left Of Me” ladies’ night T.I.: “What You Know” BEST FEMALE VIDEO Christina Aguilera: Female artists will be out in force TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE DOLLS BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; PUSSYCAT BY AGUILERA FURTADO, “Ain’t No Other Man” Kelly Clarkson: for tonight’s MTV Video Music “Because of You” Awards ceremony at Radio City Madonna: “Hung Up” Nelly Furtado featuring Music Hall. Shakira’s “Hips Don’t Timbaland: “Promiscuous” Shakira featuring Wyclef Jean: Lie,” featuring Wyclef Jean, leads “Hips Don’t Lie” the pack with seven nominations, BEST GROUP VIDEO including Video of the Year and Nelly Furtado and Timbaland The All-American Rejects: “Move Along” top honors in the female, dance, Fall Out Boy: “Dance, Dance” pop and Christina Aguilera Gnarls Barkley: “Crazy” Panic! at the Disco: “I Write Sins Not Tragedies” viewer’s choice The Pussycat Dolls Red Hot Chili Peppers: “Dani California”

categories, BEST RAP VIDEO where she’ll 50 Cent: “Window Shopper” Busta Rhymes featuring Mary J. Blige, Rah Digga, Missy Elliott, take on Lloyd Banks, Papoose & DMX: “Touch It Remix” Chamillionaire: “Ridin’ ” the likes of T.I.: “What You Know” Christina Yung Joc featuring Nitty: “It’s Goin’ Down” Aguilera, BEST R&B VIDEO Beyoncé featuring Slim Thug: “Check On It” Madonna, Chris Brown: “Yo (Excuse Me Miss)” Jamie Foxx featuring Ludacris: “Unpredictable” Kelly Clarkson, Mariah Carey: “Shake It Off ” Nelly Furtado, Mary J. Blige: “Be Without You” Pink, Rihanna BEST HIP-HOP VIDEO Black Eyed Peas: “My Humps” and The Common: “Testify” Pussycat Daddy Yankee: “Rompe” Kanye West featuring Jamie Foxx: “Gold Digger”

Dolls. JEAN BAPTISTE LACROIX/WIREIMAGE; BY SHAKIRA STEPHEN LOVEKIN/WIREIMAGE; MADONNA BY MICHAEL CAULFIELD/WIREIMAGE; PHOTO BY BEYONCE Three 6 Maﬁ a: “Stay Fly”

BEST DANCE VIDEO Madonna: “Hung Up” Nelly Furtado featuring Timbaland: “Promiscuous” The Pussycat Dolls featuring Snoop Dogg: “Buttons” Sean Paul: “Temperature” Shakira featuring Wyclef Jean: “Hips Don’t Lie”

BEST ROCK VIDEO iinsidenside 30 Seconds To Mars: “The Kill” sound bites AFI: “Miss Murder” 6 fi ve young things: With talent well beyond their years, these rising stars of the recording industry Green Day: “Wake Me Up When September Ends” are style-savvy, too. Plus, six other up-and-coming acts with a fl air for fashion. Panic! at the Disco: “I Write Sins Not Tragedies” Red Hot Chili Peppers: “Dani California” in tune 12 sky writing: The multitalented Sky Fisk balances her acting and music careers, sometimes BEST POP VIDEO Christina Aguilera: “Ain’t No Other Man” in the same fi lm. Madonna: “Hung Up” 14 on the house: A look at the newest faces and places to make their mark on the opera world. Nelly Furtado featuring Timbaland: “Promiscuous” 16 denim devotees: Diesel gives unsigned acts a chance at stardom. Plus, an electro-rock band works the blues. Pink: “Stupid Girls” 17 jonesing for a catsuit: Flamboyant getups are the calling card of this in-demand rock stylist. Shakira featuring Wyclef Jean: “Hips Don’t Lie” Plus, June Ambrose fashions a book release. BEST NEW ARTIST IN A VIDEO Angels and Airwaves: “The Adventure” musical notes Avenged Sevenfold: “Bat Country” 18 a common thread: Several London labels make ready-to-wear as well as records. Chris Brown featuring Juelz Santana: “Run It!” 20 bling abroad: Hip-hop’s notice-me jewelry is turning some high-fashion heads in Europe. James Blunt: “You’re Beautiful” 21 beautiful voices: Perfume and cosmetics deals aren’t just for actresses anymore. Panic! at the Disco: “I Write Sins Not Tragedies” Rihanna: “S.O.S.” coda 22 get in the groove: A look at some of the world’s best club nights and what to wear to get VIEWER’S CHOICE Chris Brown featuring Juelz Santana: “Run It!” past the door. Fall Out Boy: “Dance, Dance” Kelly Clarkson: “Because of You” Rihanna: “S.O.S.” Shakira featuring Wyclef Jean: “Hips Don’t Lie” 004 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 DALLAS KINGOFPRUSSIAPALM BEACHMARLTON SANDIEGOJOSEWAIKIKI NEW YORKLOSANGELESATLANTA BEVERLY HILLSCORALGABLESCOSTA MESA HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com

WWDMUSIC/SECTION II five young things

With talent well beyond their years, these rising stars of the recording industry are style-savvy, too.

Singer-songwriter Emily Balay may be a bona fide Valley Girl—born and raised (sound bites) in Los Angeles’ San Fernando Valley—but her style is more Hollywood chic than “Square Pegs.” The 21-year-old femme fatale, who goes by her surname, in January will release her ﬁ rst album, on Geffen Records. It’s a dance-y concoction of hidden valley contemporary pop and Eighties dark wave, à la Depeche Mode and Souxsie & the Banshees. “I like mixing genres, putting the electronic beats with raw instruments,” she says. “It’s a dirty, gritty sound. You can dance to it and you can rock to it.” When it comes to fashion, Balay is just as eclectic, blending vintage, sportswear and bold accessories with long-and-lean staples. She recently gave WWD the 411 on her fashion ﬁ xations. —Emili Vesilind

WWD: What would you never wear? Balay: Sweatpants make my ass look huge, and I don’t need you staring at my hump. I don’t wear Juicy. Also, I do not enjoy ﬂ ared pants. At the same time, I think the skinny jean is very hard to make ﬂ attering on a girl. I taper pants to a straight leg to make my legs look long and luxurious. I mean, is that too much to ask? And the pants that cut to the knee make me look like a little person. It’s not cute.

WWD: Where do you shop? B.: I do the thrift store thing and then alter stuff, because I never ﬁ nd clothes that ﬁ t me. And I’m not going to lie, I’m a big Target fan.

WWD: How would you characterize your personal style? B.: I love strategic use of color. I usually wear black accented with colors. I love polkadots; they’re sublime. And I’ve been wearing period clothing lately. Like, I’ll take something that’s inspired by the 18th century, and make it look casual. The main thing is, I don’t want people not looking at my face. And it always has to be sleek for me, and streamlined—in case I have to take ﬂ ight.

WWD: What kinds of things do you like to wear on stage? B.: I have to have tennis shoes on. When I put on high heels, you can see from a mile away that I’m uncomfortable. I usually wear low-top Converse All-Stars with no socks. I’m also a big fan of Jack Purcells—I think they’re so classy.

WWD: What do you ﬁ nd inspiring, fashion-wise? B.: I actually used to do a burlesque show a couple of years ago. I just think that French burlesque—the real one with the can-can—is so sexy, but not trashy. I also love the androgynous look.

WWD: What was the last great piece of clothing you bought? B.: It’s this fun black tube-top dress. I wear it with a really fun red belt that’s huge. I Emily Balay live in it. TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY

There’s nothing childish about the smoky alto and sophisticated melodies 17-year-old Sonya Kitchell Sonya Kitchell brings to her debut album, “Words Came Back to Me,” released in April by Starbucks Hear Music. The songs, all of which she wrote, range from bluesy pop to sultry jazz and have won her parallels to Norah Jones and Joni Mitchell, one of her idols. “Everyone has to be compared with someone at some point,” Kitchell says. “I’m at least glad they’re people I like.” What she doesn’t like are the hours spent traveling between music festivals and jazz clubs in Boston, Seattle, Aspen and, next week, Tokyo. There are few days spent on her parents’ 40-acre farm in the Berkshires of Massachusetts, but lucky for her growing fan base, there’s time for writing. “I already have enough songs for my next album,” she says. —Libby Estell

WWD: Your song “Let Me Go” is about craving independence from your parents. How much say do they have in what you wear? Sonya Kitchell: No say whatsoever. My mom, like any mother, says, ‘That looks good and that doesn’t look good,’ or ‘Your bra’s hanging out,’ or whatever. I still kind of like to dress up. My mom has been a big supporter of that.

WWD: What do you like to wear? S.K.: I look for something unique that’ll make me feel good. Clothing can be so beautiful, like a piece of art. And that’s what draws me to something, a beautiful color

coffee break or a beautiful texture. I love thrift stores and vintage. My mother was a fashion illustrator, and my godfather [Roberto Robledo] was a fashion designer, so there’s an extra closet in our house ﬁ lled with his stuff and things that my mom traded for in the fashion business. She’s got all these beautiful suede dresses and some of my grandmother’s clothing, which I can’t ﬁ t into, but I do wear some of it. Of course my mom wears these things after I do, when she realizes it’s cool. Then I have to steal them back.

WWD: How are your everyday and stage styles different? S.K.: They’re not really different. Although I wouldn’t wear sweatpants on stage, and I will wear them in the car if it’s going to be a long drive.

WWD: How do you balance a music career and school? S.K.: I don’t. I work with a tutor, and I’m ﬁ nishing up high school, but I don’t go to school. I was a perfectionist and a very good student, so that’s why I had to leave, because I couldn’t do both. I had a hard time going halfway with either thing. School was easy for me until I was touring all the time.

WWD: What about college? S.K.: Learning is very important to me, so it will happen. I’m just getting a different PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY kind of education right now.

006 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM

Cheyenne Kimball

If you haven’t seen her MTV reality show “Cheyenne,” you probably have seen her rocking out with Pat Benatar in those Candie’s Vintage commercials. And with the July release of her debut album, “The Day Has Come,” Cheyenne Kimball, 16, may soon be a brand to rival Britney, Christina or Jessica. But this rocker chick, whose musical tastes run to Blind Melon, the Black Crowes and Alanis Morissette, would rather be compared with Sheryl Crow than any pop star. “I can’t really ﬁ ght it, and I kind of gave up. I think once I get older, it’ll change a little bit.” —Tara Bonet-Black

WWD: How would you describe your style? Cheyenne Kimball: I have all different moods of clothing that I go through. Sometimes I wear weird things. Last night on stage, I was wearing leggings with shorts and an Ed Hardy shirt with a leather jacket and my Marc Jacobs ballet heels. I love to spread the word on new styles and expressing yourself and not dressing like everybody else.

WWD: Who is your favorite designer? C.K.: I don’t really know very many designers. I’m a bargain shopper, so I don’t have many designer clothes. Would you call Marc Jacobs a designer? He makes a lot of my favorite items that my stylist gets for me.

WWD: Where do you shop for bargains? C.K.: I love Buffalo Exchange or anywhere that has a sale. I also love to go to Kohl’s. That’s one of the reasons I’m the new Candie’s girl, because I do shop there. You don’t always have to have expensive things to look cool.

WWD: Whose style do you admire? C.K.: I love Mandy Moore. She holds herself so well in her clothes, and she doesn’t show too much skin or anything, which is really respectable.

WWD: Do you see a Cheyenne fashion line in your future? C.K.: I don’t know. It’s been offered a few times, but I don’t know if it’s necessary. I might do it just making the brand PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY because I love clothes, but I’m going to have to be really careful when it comes to all that.

She wrote her fi rst song at age eight, plays the already for the [children’s] music, so I fi gured they piano, guitar and dulcimer, and put out three could make fun of me for my clothes, too. And independent children’s and folk records with her so I started wearing things that no one else was mother by the time she was 16, but Holly Brook emotional wearing and tried to set my own fashion trends. insists she’s not a prodigy. Writing and playing music is simply how she gets her emotions out. WWD: Do you have any style icons now? “It’s like my therapy,” she says. That therapy has H.B.: It’s so cliché, but Gwen Stefani. I don’t produced a soft, ethereal musical style, fi lled matters really dress like her, but I really admire her with mature lyrics that belie her just-turned-20 creativity in what she wears. I actually make stuff, years. With her fi rst solo album, “Like Blood Like too. My mom went to fashion school in New York, Honey,” now in stores, a season’s worth of touring and she taught me a little bit. ahead of her and the album’s fi rst single, “Giving It Up for You,” hitting the airwaves on Sept. 19, WWD: Have you designed anything of your own? Brook has a whole new range of experiences ripe H.B.: I like to make things and fi nd stuff and make it for refl ection. —Michael Agosta cooler than it was. I took a T-shirt and altered it so the front was the back and the neck was the arm to make WWD: Clearly your musical sensibilities have it unique. For my eighth-grade graduation I made my grown up from your children’s-folk roots. Has your dress, and I was Snow White in a musical once and style sense matured as well? made my dress. I haven’t been able to do it in a while, Holly Brook: I’m very innocent when it comes to but I got my own sewing machine for Christmas. fashion. I don’t really know what I’m doing, I just like to do something. I look at pictures from when WWD: What would you be doing if you weren’t I was little, and I’m like, what am I doing? I had performing? these neon green and black zebra striped spandex H.B.: Well, I’ve been learning how to fl y, so I might pants. It was beautiful! become a pilot. I actually did my fi rst landing [six weeks] ago. I’ve always been a little bit WWD: What about as you grew up? fascinated with it because my stepdad fl ew C-130s H.B.: In [junior high], people made fun of me Holly Brook in Vietnam. gospel youth

At 13, Spensha Baker is a typical eighth grader in all respects but one: She’s a gospel artist signed to A&M Records. Her debut album of original songs, including one she wrote with her mom, is slated for release early next year. Baker had no formal musical training, yet she’s revealed her powerful voice on television and live for thousands of people, including President George W. Bush. —Holly Haber

WWD: What inspired you to sing? Spensha Baker: I started singing when I was seven and it worked up from there. My parents really inspired me because they are my number-one fans, so I decided when I was nine that if I have this much love and support, I’m going to keep singing and touch people. I’ve been going to church since I was three, and seeing how the singers touched people made me want to do it more.

WWD: What fashion styles do you like to wear? S.B.: I pay attention to what’s in the stores, and my mom and I are trying to develop my own look. I started getting into style as soon as I was fi nished with “Star Search” [at age 11] because I realized there was a certain way I was presented. I want people to know I’m 13, and the way I act and dress is age-appropriate. I’m just a regular kid trying to fi nd myself….One of my favorite outfi ts for performing is an ankle-length pink skirt with an embroidered silver belt and a side tie, with a tank top with glitter trim and a half blue-jean jacket. I always like to be comfortable….I like to glam it up with accessories, like chandelier earrings and long beaded necklaces. I just got a Spensha Baker, at home Gap skirt with leggings, and I also really like little hats—beanies and hip-hop hats. in Converse, Tex. PHOTOS BY BOB OWENS PHOTOS BY

WWD: What musical artists inﬂ uence your fashion sense? WWD: Where do you like to shop? S.B.: If I had to relate myself to another musical artist, it’s Hilary Duff. She’s a little S.B.: I like a lot of Limited Too things. I’m not into certain designers. I like Claire’s girly and preppy and classy and young. I also pull things from India.Arie—I love her and The Icing for accessories. I also shop at Gap, Foley’s, Dillard’s, J.C. Penney and bohemian style. American Eagle Outﬁ tters.

WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 7 WWDMUSIC/SECTION II (sound bites) The Pipettes WWD.COM

ENGLAND’S FAMED SEASIDE town of Brighton is no stranger soul miner to music trends—the Mods and FROM HER GAP-TOOTHED GRIN AND FOUR-OCTAVE RANGE TO Rockers of “Quadrophenia” her penchant for pairing Christian Louboutin stilettos with vintage fought on its shores in 1979, and Levi’s, nothing about Alice Smith is prepackaged or easy to pigeonhole. DJ Fatboy Slim hails from there. She borrowed the title of her fi rst album on BBE Records, “For Lovers, Brighton’s latest offering is The Dreamers and Me,” from the Muppets, but its rock-pop-soul sound Pipettes, made up of Rosay, 20; evokes Nina Simone, Tina Turner, Barbra Streisand and Billie Holiday Gwenno, 25, and Riot Becki, fi ltered through go-go, country and gospel. Smith, 28, blames her 23, all of whom have adopted eclecticism on her big Southern family, where “everybody was always the surname Pipette. The trio listening to something, and nobody was listening to the same thing.” employs Phil Spector-style A lot more people may soon be listening to this New York chanteuse: harmonies to interpret issues of She will tour with Citizen Cope to promote the Sept. 12 release of teen angst and heartache, with “Dreamers,” and hitmakers LA Reid, Clive Davis and Jay-Z are said to the polkadot dresses and dance be in a bidding war over her rising star. —Libby Estell routines to match. Their album, “We Are the Pipettes,” was WWD: Your music defi es easy classifi cation; is your style the same way? released in the U.K. in July, and Alice Smith: It’s just like the music. It fi ts perfectly. I like sweet and they plan to hit the U.S. for live pretty stuff, clean and sleek stuff, black stuff and white stuff. I wear dates early next year. women’s clothes daily, and what I wear changes daily. Talk to me again —Lucie Greene tomorrow and it could all be different. WWD: How do you describe WWD: What’s it like today? your sound? A.S.: I’m kind of basic. I’m Rosay Pipette: It’s pop, not into fl ashy, fl ashy…. basically. Our infl uences are I wore a uniform from very broad, but the focus is the the sixth to 12th grade, late Fifties-early Sixties era. We and when you go to a all grew up listening to indie girls’ school, it doesn’t music and reading the NME matter what you look [New Musical Express], which like. I didn’t have to became so boring! We don’t think about it because belong to a scene and we’re not everybody looked interested in being ‘cool.’ the same. I’m more concerned about the WWD: Where does your look come from? hair and the makeup Alice Gwenno Pipette: We were a concept before there were any songs—our guitarist because those are the Smith had the initial idea for the band. We all liked the idea of spectacle in the show, things you have control the three of us at the front. We wanted it to be about the performance as well as over in school. the music.

WWD: Do you have a favorite WWD: Which designers do you admire? designer? G.P.: I love Gareth Pugh. I think he’s amazing, though I don’t know that I would A.S.: I’m more into having nice sheets have the conﬁ dence to wear what he makes. and taking nice baths, eating good food, going for a facial. That’s where I’m really at. Plus, I don’t like seeing other people in my stuff. I don’t WWD: What impact did Brighton have on your music? want to look like nobody else. It generally means I have to buy a lot of R.P.: I can’t imagine the Pipettes coming about in any other town. There’s such thrift or wear vintage. And that’s how I get caught, because sometimes I an eclectic group of bands down there, lots of different sounds. There’s also just don’t feel like being bothered with that. always been a bit of a cabaret thing, too, a brashness and a tackiness that makes us feel comfortable. WWD: Whose look do you admire? A.S.: I like Feist [of Broken Social Scene]. I like the way she dresses, three-part harmony WWD: Do you have any hidden talents? it’s just kind of simple. It’s not “Let’s get dressed for the show.” Or it R.P.: Gwenno has appeared in a Bollywood ﬁ lm, which she hasn’t let us see yet. doesn’t feel that way, maybe it is. She also danced in Riverdance.

WWD: What do you like to wear when you perform? WWD: Have you had any moments of fame yet? A.S.: I can wear things onstage I wouldn’t wear on the street because G.P.: I don’t consider myself famous. I did get recognized on the Tube recently, it doesn’t matter, or it matters in a different way. I want to be able to be which was disconcerting. This guy said he thought I was really good. Everyone Everywoman. But it’s diffi cult to wear something you don’t think looks else was like, “Who the hell is she?” like you. At the same time, you fi gure if you like it and it’s appropriate for your body, you don’t want to be afraid to wear it. But these men talk WWD: Do you have any pre-stage rituals? too damn much. You don’t have to be a slut to wear slutty clothes. G.P.: We should warm up, but usually it’s just a drink and a cigarette. SMITH PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; PIPETTES TIM JENKINS KYLE BY SMITH PHOTO BY Róisín Murphy murphy’s law BRITISH MUSIC SENSATION ROISIN MURPHY IS R.M.: I’m feeling minimal, very graphic and Mod. I just defi nitely in touch with her inner fashion groupie. read that book The Way We Wore by Robert Elms. It got me Practically as famous for her eclectic wardrobe as her really thinking about Mod clothes again.…I love Jonathan astounding pipes, the singer, previously frontwoman Saunders, a new designer here in London. He has that for Sheffi eld dance outfi t Moloko, is fi nishing up her thing where it’s just gorgeous and so right. second solo album, due out next spring. The 32-year-old took some time out from recording and writing songs to WWD: What role do your clothes play on stage? discuss assorted style and music matters. R.M.: When I dress for a concert, I really dress and —Miles Socha change a lot. I usually start out quite restricted and tailored. I think that’s a big, strong look. Tailoring, you WWD: You grew up wearing vintage clothes. What feel quite powerful in it. Then it disintegrates from there reactions did you get? and I end up in just rags and feathers. Róisín Murphy: I think a lot of people were scared of me as a teenager. From the age of 14, I was in a total Sixties WWD: Which female musician made the biggest world. My mom was an antiques dealer and I used to go impression on you? to all the charity shops and jumble sales. I would dress R.M.: Blondie’s Debbie Harry—she’s the most stylish from head to toe for 5 pounds and look like a million woman in the world. bucks—or so I thought. WWD: And how do you fi nd the music scene today? WWD: Did you keep a lot of it? R.M.: It’s a confusing time. There’s a lot of jostling for R.M.: I have a room full of clothes. I have the most beautiful power, between the reality shows, TV pop star contests Zhandra Rhodes tiered chiffon shift dress in an amazing and the Internet. I think people will get tired of crappy turquoise. I also have some Bill Gibbs and Ossie Clark. pop stars and sh--ty celebrities. Don’t get me wrong. I’m glued to things like Big Brother. I fi nd it fascinating.

PHOTO BY MARK ALLAN PHOTO BY WWD: What fashions ﬂ oat your boat today? Maybe out of the process, one or two geniuses will come.

008 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006

WWDMUSIC/SECTION II WWD.COM

Charlotte Martin (sound bites)

WWD: What did you do differently on this album? Charlotte Martin: I got really aggressive with my production. I’ve always loved synthesizers and software and computers, and I just really dove in. There are no rules telling me whether I have to have a bridge or a chorus or this is too aggressive or too operatic or too vaudeville or too electronic or too dark. It was all too everything, so that made it better.

WWD: Who are your musical inﬂ uences? C.M.: It changes over the years, but Peter Gabriel is still a big inﬂ uence. Super, super into Dead Can Dance. Also, Patrick Wolf and Boards of Canada.

WWD: How would you describe your style? C.M.: My style is very asexual, but my music is very male. It’s like a really tasteful gay man who can rock. I’m really into fully decked-out suits, any color, any style, any way, shape or form, as long as it fi ts. You’re not gonna see a corset or something pushing my tits to oblivion. Onstage I have to be comfortable and feel like the music, and the independent woman music right now is defi nitely a girl in a guy’s suit. WWD: Do you have a favorite designer? C.M.: I love Marc Jacobs [and] Stella McCartney. She’s classic but there’s always an edge. IN THE PAST 18 MONTHS, CHARLOTTE MARTIN MARRIED INDIE-ROCK PRODUCER Ken Andrews, started Dinosaur Records, released two EPs, toured and wrote and WWD: What wouldn’t people guess about you? coproduced her second full-length album, “Stromata,” out Sept. 12. Now, fi nally, after C.M.: I’m obsessed with the smell of my armpits. I do a lot of meet-and-greets where, fi ve years of being compared with other popular piano rockers, Martin, 30, says that if I go up to hug someone, they could be in a very scary situation. So I carry around with this record, “I’m so much Charlotte Martin.” —Lisa Kelly deodorant and wipes in my purse. I rotate deodorants twice a week. Twice a week!

The Section THE SECTION QUARTET Quartet’s retro-active effect bills itself as the loudest Leah Katz and The latest in a raft of MySpace acts to create a buzz without releasing even a string quartet on the Daphne Chen. single, jazz-soul duo Lazenby not only has the digital world locked down, it’s planet. Classical in training gaining ground on London’s live circuit too. The Sheffield natives have created and orientation—the two a lounge-inspired act that has taken them from jazz clubs and the Edinburgh violinists, viola player and Fringe to gigs for major crowds at London’s Wireless festival and MTV’s party cellist have a combined 109 at Cannes. Vocalist Sarah Lazenby trips around the stage in Forties frocks, years practicing Old World while suited guitarist Nick Lockwood provides the backup. —Lucie Greene composers—the group plugs its traditional instruments WWD: How would you describe your look? into speakers for electrifying Sarah Lazenby: It’s a modern take on movie-star glamour and fi lm noir. In renditions of head-banging those days, the stars had an untouchable quality to them, which I like. I wear anthems by Kiss, Radiohead a lot of Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Westwood, Diane Von Furstenberg and vintage and Pink Floyd. To fi t their pieces. My shoes are by porn shoe label Icon Shoes. The owner came to a gig sound, violist Leah Katz, 29, and then made me a pair, and now I keep going back. They’re patent, in a and violinist Daphne Chen, Fifties design, but higher. 30, have squeezed into custom corsets that would raise WWD: How did you fi rst get interested in retro fashion? Beethoven’s eyebrows. S.L.: I’ve always loved dressing up. It started with long black dresses like —Khanh T.L. Tran Audrey Hepburn, and now it’s more Natalie Wood. WWD: Are you living out your WWD: How would you describe your music? revenge of the music nerds by S.L.: We’ve come up with ‘alternative soul’ as a defi nition, but our music is rocking out at Coachella and inspired by other festivals? Sarah Lazenby everything from Daphne Chen: We’ve spent Minnie Riperton years playing to audiences and Joni that had to be quiet and clap Mitchell through after a performance. It’s fun to reggae to be loud. My parents said to and rock. It’s me, ‘You know, you didn’t turn things and strings Sheffi eld soul! out the way we expected.’

WWD: Who are WWD: How do you blend your idols? classical instruments with S.L.: I love subwoofers? Johnny Cash. He Leah Katz: We try to be went against his ourselves. We play rock music but we happen to use classical instruments. Most of label to record the confusion is if we’re using classical instruments to play rock music and we’re the live sessions, a string quartet, then most people think Muzak. even though they said not to WWD: How does your performance inﬂ uence your choices for wardrobe? TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY do it, and they D.C.: Unlike a traditional string quartet, we stand when we play. It feels a lot were his biggest- more dynamic, a lot more free. From a technical standpoint, I can’t wear big, selling hits. obnoxious, bulky earrings and necklaces because they would bang into my violin. L.K.: If we were a classical ensemble, an orchestra, we would always dress in WWD: What formal all-black attire, a full-length skirt, stockings and heels. They want you to be would you do if as covered as possible. We’re very happy that we can stray away from that. you weren’t a musician? WWD: Where did you get the idea to wear corsets in your performances? S.L.: I’d work D.C.: I went online for a pirate costume. I found this nicely made corset from in a vintage Trashy Lingerie. They said they could customize it. I roped Leah into going over underwear there, and she got one, too. shop. I’d love L.K.: The two corsets we got don’t look anything alike but they’re somehow to own one. I coordinated because they have the ties on there. We don’t want to clash on stage. even recently got offered a WWD: Do you feel that you need to dress to stand out from the guys, violinist Eric job at Agent Gorfain and cellist Richard Dodd? Provocateur. D.C.: The guys tend to not want to discuss wardrobe. They wear what they wear. I do love it! L.K.: I think we stand out naturally because we are the female players. Also, it The suspender seems that there are a lot more options in women’s clothing than men’s. There’s a belts— lot more opportunity to stand out.

PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY everything.

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The multitalented Sky Fisk balances her acting (in tune) and music careers, sometimes in the same ﬁ lm.

▲ Marc Jacobs’ RAISED IN CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA., silk chiffon actress-singer-songwriter Schuyler Fisk, who dress and slip. goes by Sky, grew up largely unaware of the glitz and glamour of Hollywood. But, given her pedigree—mom is actress Sissy Spacek and dad is production designer Jack Fisk—it was inevitable that she’d have a yen to perform. “I fell in love with acting from a very, very young age,” she says. “When I was watching my mom act, I always wanted to play her child in a movie and she’d be like, ‘No, honey. You have to wait.’ She didn’t want me to get into it too early. I didn’t understand then but now I feel so lucky that I had such a normal upbringing.” Fisk, 24, made her big-screen debut at age 11 in the “The Baby-Sitter’s Club,” and graduated from high school early so she could move to Los Angeles at 17 to act full-time. But she never thought her music, which she calls “my passion,” would take a professional turn. “I’ve been singing my whole life, but I started playing guitar and writing songs when I was about 15. I wanted to play an instrument because it’s kind of cooler if you have something to accompany yourself,” she says. Spacek, who also plays guitar, taught her three chords. “I just took those chords and kind of made my own songs. The more chords I learned, my songs came along,” she explains. Fisk started performing this year at the Sundance Film Festival and at Hollywood’s Hotel Café. Actors and directors quickly took notice. The single “Paperweight,” a duet she wrote with her boyfriend, musician Joshua Radin, was a late addition to the soundtrack for “The Miu M silk d iu’s Last Kiss.” “Zach [Braff, the ﬁ lm’s star] called ress.

Sky Writing P me and said, ‘I think I’ve listened to it 40 times ono in a row. You guys have to get to the studio necklace. and record this.’ That was fl attering; he has great taste,” she says. Similarly, Sue Kramer, the director of Spacek’s upcoming release, “Gray Matters,” insisted Fisk’s song “I Just Remember Goodbye” was perfect for her fi lm. Fisk got to combine both her talents in her upcoming fi lm “I’m Reed Fish.” She wrote and performed two songs for the romantic comedy, in which she plays a songwriter. “The producers gave me one week and said, ‘You think you can do it?’ And I was like, ‘Sure!’ and then I got home and went, ‘Oh crap! How am I going to do this?’ But it was a really fun challenge to fi gure out where this character’s coming from.” Considering all the material she’s written, an album is the logical next step. “I’ve got a lot of songs I want people to hear and things I’m really proud of,” she says. “It’s an exciting time.” She just fi nished an EP, and the fi rst four songs are now available on iTunes. Her as yet untitled album is due out early next year on Universal. “Maybe I’ll have people vote for a title on my MySpace page,” she says, adding, “With music, it’s so personal and there’s so much of who I am in the music, whether the song’s about me or not. You listen to a record, you kind of know my life story.” —Marcy Medina

Development’s silk and wool dress. Vintage bracelet from The Way She Wore and Jimmy Choo heels.

HAIR: SEAN JAMES/PHOTOGENICS; REIKO/PHOTOGENICS; MONICA SCHWEIGER STYLED BY JEFF BENDER; MAKEUP: TASHA PHOTO BY

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onA look at thethe newest faceshouse and places to dressing the part make their mark on the opera world.

Juliette Deschamps applies a love of couture to the natural woman The soaring soprano with a down-to-earth attitude. operas she stages.

KATE ROYAL, AT 27, IS ONE OF OPERA’S GREAT LADIES, EARNING ovations for her “reﬁ ned” soprano as well as her elegant stage presence and long, shapely legs. But despite her favorable physical attributes, Royal, who lives in London, is a grounded singer, dedicated to developing the fundamentals of her craft. The product of a pop singer-songwriter father and a dancer mother, Royal came to opera relatively late, after doing “a lot of dance and musical Juliette Deschamps theater as a kid.” Although she studied for six years at London’s Guildhall at the Théâtre des School of Music and Drama, Royal lends proof to the belief that great opera

(in tune) Champs-Elysées. PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY singers are born, not made. “My voice had a natural “I’M YOUNG, I’M A GIRL AND I’M BLONDE; IT’S NOT EASY TO BE TAKEN inclination to opera. When I seriously,” quips Juliette Deschamps. As one of the rising stars of French opera, she Kate Royal understood that, I felt relieved, seems to have overcome such handicaps. because I felt my voice fi nally fi t in, At 28, the budding director is preparing to stage her fi rst production, “Era la as it didn’t with jazz and show tunes. Notte,” at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées next May, featuring costumes by Christian It was a different world altogether Lacroix. “[Lacroix] loves opera and has total confi dence in young people,” she says. from what I’d grown up with.” But while the self-confessed fashion addict’s personal wardrobe blends cutting- In 2004, Royal won the Kathleen edge designers such as Viktor & Rolf with offbeat offerings from Irina Volkonski, Ferrier and John Christie awards, American Apparel T-shirts and Prada shoes, she has old-school values when it igniting a string of concert engagements comes to the costume department. and accolades. She performed Pamina “Opera is all about excess: Everything’s too big, too emotional, too loud—like a in Mozart’s “Die Zauberfl öte” at Boeing 747 taking off. And only haute couture can really stand up to that,” she says, the Glyndebourne Festival and the adding that using something like denim for the sake of trying to modernize the art Countess in Mozart’s “Le Nozze di would be “far too normal.” Figaro.” She is preparing for a turn as Not to mention a waste of a generous costume budget. Given that one production the governess in Benjamin Britten’s typically costs 60,000 to 700,000 euros (approximately $77,000 to $900,000 at current “The Turn of the Screw” and will exchange) a night to stage, Deschamps sees opera as a well-funded opportunity to appear in Handel’s “L’Allegro” at the put high fashion to work. For her next production, “The Seven Deadly Sins,” by Kurt Paris Opera. Her fi rst solo album, a Weill and Bertolt Brecht, the hands-on director will turn to Chanel for a sense of compilation of her favorite German history. “Evoking 1930s Vienna, I’d like the costumes to resemble paintings by Egon songs, is due out early next year on EMI. Schiele and Gustav Klimt.” Despite this fl urry of activity, Royal Deschamps’ staging, however, is more modern. Her biggest dream is to work with doesn’t play the diva offstage. She likes American artist Matthew Barney. “More and more contemporary artists are entering the to relax with her friends at the local pub, opera scene, and it’s getting younger bottoms in seats,” says Deschamps, citing Spanish walk in Dulwich Park and listen to Joni artist Michael Barcello’s sets for Mozart’s “L’Enlèvement au sérail” at Madrid’s Teatro Mitchell. “She uses her voice in such Real in May and Bill Viola’s jaw-dropping video installation for Wagner’s “Tristan und amazing ways,” Royal says—high praise Isolde” at the Opera de Paris in 2005. Even British pop-meets-hip-hop group Gorillaz is from a singer whose sound critics have working on an opera project with the Théâtre du Châtelet for next year. called “perfect” and “unblemished.” “Today there are more theaters, hence lower prices and more variety, so the Though Royal loves to perform in opulent productions, she says she young are getting interested in opera once again,” she says. prefers intimate recitals. “I love to see how music affects the audience, The younger audience is even dressing the part, turning up at the theater in which you don’t as much in a grand opera setting.” gorgeous gowns and cocktail dresses. “There’s a sophistication on stage that’s mirrored However, Royal, who calls herself “really a jeans girl,” says recitals in the audience,” Deschamps says. “Opera is an opportunity for everyone to dress up.” do pose one thorny issue: what to wear. “It’s actually not easy to fi nd an —Katya Foreman appropriate stage dress,” she gripes. “It can’t be too sultry or skimpy, and at the same time it generally needs to be structured.” Amanda Wakeley is her current favorite. “The materials are cool and the silhouettes look good when they move. Singing opera is very physical.” rock and rossini —Robert Murphy Once an aspiring pop star, Juan Diego Florez turned to opera instead.

AS A 14-YEAR-OLD PLAYING LIMA’S PIANO BARS next opera in a little more than 10 days. with his no-name rock band, Peruvian tenor Juan Florez says a perfectionist streak is the secret to Diego Florez never imagined he would one day earn his success. “I always see the mistakes. In a way, that ovations at La Scala and the Metropolitan Opera. makes me go forward, and next time I remember Florez, the son of a popular Peruvian folk and do even better. There’s something good about guitarist, had music in his blood, but his was the not being completely happy with your results.” rock ’n’ roll type. “We’d sing the whole night away, But the tenor has reason to be quite pleased performing everything from the Rolling Stones with himself. A complete recording of “Matilde to Peruvian music, and even some pop ballads I di Shabran,” due out Sept. 12 on Decca, will composed.” When Florez began taking voice, piano revive his starmaking turn. Then it’s on to several and guitar lessons, it was because he wanted to sing, performances of Rossini’s “Barber of Seville,” at the compose and arrange pop music. Met, starting Nov. 10, followed by a Carnegie Hall It wasn’t until he enrolled at Peru’s National concert on Dec. 1. “The Met is like home to me. The Conservatory of Music at 17 that Florez began public atmosphere is a favorite of mine since it’s so listening to—and singing—Handel, Bach and vibrant and alive,” Florez says. Beethoven with the National Chorus. “I wanted to His real home is outside Milan, where in his get the best of everything—the best teacher and the spare time, Florez likes to play tennis and soccer best education,” he says. and tries to hit the gym three times a week. It’s there Following a three-year scholarship to the Curtis that he rocks out to Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones Institute in Philadelphia, Florez met fellow tenor and and Little Richard, along with some salsa and, of Rossini specialist Ernesto Palacio, who became his course, Shakira. manager and helped him win a small role in “Matilde With a performance wardrobe that’s limited di Shabran” at the Rossini Festival in 1996. Fate to stage costumes and tuxedos, Florez doesn’t intervened when the principal tenor became ill during have to do much shopping, but admits a fondness rehearsal, and Florez stepped in. At just 23, he became for Ermenegildo Zegna. “I wear a little bit of an overnight sensation, signing contracts to perform at everything....My style is both classical and modern. I La Scala, the Metropolitan Opera and London’s Royal Juan Diego Florez go with the fashion, always with a bit of elegance.” Opera House. As Florez recalls, he had to learn his —Michelle Edgar

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THE DIESEL-U-MUSIC COMPETITION CAN’T CLAIM A SNARKY BRITISH JUDGE who publicly crushes the spirits of its contestants, but the indie artists it attracts do Past competitors The Bravery got have the edgy authenticity to which prime-time pop rockers only aspire. exposure without a win. The clothing company launched its Diesel-U-Music contest in Britain in 2001, just as “Pop Idol” and its American offshoot were beginning to turn the tables on the music business by emphasizing the manufacture and marketing of an act over the discovery of new talent. “All the small music labels that survived by being feeder labels to the majors saw that they were being cut out,” says Diesel spokesman Dan Barton, adding that major record labels cut investments in their scouting efforts and shifted that money to marketing. “As a big company, we saw an opportunity to help by putting these small organizations together. The aim of the competition wasn’t to produce a prize, but to create support.” That support, which Diesel also offers to young artists, designers and fi lmmakers with other awards, has been a boon to music winners. We Are Scientists, one of last year’s rock awardees, released their fi rst major-label album, “With Love and Squalor,” in January 2006 on Virgin Records. Other past winners include The Pistolas, The Infadels, DJ Skully and Tom Vek. But even bands who didn’t make the fi nal cut, such as The Bravery, have earned broader recognition. Now in its sixth year, Diesel-U-Music has combined several regional contests in Japan, Italy, Belgium and elsewhere into a global effort that harnesses the power of the Internet to bring “unsigned, unsung, unseen and underground” musicians into the limelight. Hopefuls began uploading music, photos and biographies to the Diesel-U-Music Web site on May 1. Sony Media Software and Billboard jumped on as co-sponsors of the event, promising entrants greater exposure to the music industry’s decision-makers. Within three days of the site going live, more than 350 songs were submitted from artists in the United States, Britain, Portugal, Slovakia, Mexico and Russia. In two weeks the number of uploaded songs had ballooned to more than 1,000, and by the close of the eight-week submission period, judges were faced with 3,399 artists and The public will have a say in this year’s competition as well. Voters have until 7,497 tracks to choose from. “This is by far the biggest [competition yet],” says Barton. Sept. 17 to nominate their favorite artist for the Public award, which will also be Submissions were classifi ed as either rock, urban/hip-hop or electronic and handed out at the London ceremony. then further classifi ed by six geographic locations—Belgium, Japan, Italy, the Barton believes the biggest challenge facing this year’s judges will be the range U.K., the U.S. and “Around the World.” A panel of judges in each region pared of music styles, particularly when it comes to the differences between Japanese and the submissions down to their top three picks in each genre, resulting in an American music. As to why Diesel is putting its marketing might behind the world’s international short list of 54 entries. This year’s Stateside panel included DJ AM, unknowns and unprovens, Barton says it comes down to authenticity—for the brand producer Butch Walker and Todd Moskowitz, head of independent labels at Warner and the bands it discovers. Records. The judges gathered again to pick a winning act in each of the categories “We’re proud of the fact that we’re not putting all our money into artists that don’t in each region to determine the 18 fi nalists who will travel to London for the Diesel- need our support. We’re proud that we’re investing in those that need it.” U-Music awards show in October. —Ross Tucker

Bandmates and business partners Robbie Williamson, Megan Gold and Brian Kim. blues band At Work, custom denim and electro-rock are the order of business.

YOU NEVER KNOW WHOM YOU’RE GOING TO MEET. At a party in 2004, married couple Megan Gold and Robbie Williamson, then the owners of a year- old Los Angeles store that imported items by independent Japanese designers, complemented then- stranger Brian Kim on his jeans. Kim, a drummer and self-taught designer, had crafted the well-fi tting trousers himself. The trio formed a band, with Gold on vocals and Williamson on bass. Eventually, Kim set up a custom denim business in the store. This year—with a fourth partner, denim designer David Hershberger—the collective revamped the Echo Park Boulevard store into Work Custom Denim, a tiny shop and studio space where, for $500, diehard denim hounds can have a pair of custom jeans made. “We called it Work because that’s what it is,” says Gold. “It seems like a lot of money for each pair, but it’s so much work to make a pair of custom jeans.” The process includes three or four fi ttings and takes anywhere from two weeks to a month, depending on the project’s scope. The primary goal is a fl awless fi t—and forget about asking for Swarovski-encrusted back pockets. “These guys are denim purists,” says Gold, who handles the business side of the company with Williamson. “They don’t like washes.” Kim sources unusual denim from “all over—from mom-and-pop stores to dead-stock warehouses,” he says. By night, the original trio morphs into an electro-rock band, also called Work. In the store’s tiny back room, crammed to capacity with music gear, the bandmates write and record drum-machine- driven experimental rock. They recently snagged a monthly gig at hip downtown club Little Pedro’s. And Work recently caught the eye of Brian Kaneda, denim buyer for L.A.’s iconic Ron Herman boutiques, known for lending instant pedigree to fl edgling brands. “I saw their storefront, and it had all this dead-stock denim. I had to know what they were doing,” says Kaneda. “I think it’s so exciting that there’s a place where you can get custom jeans—and not just tailored. It’s practically couture.” Kaneda recently commissioned Work for a series of limited-edition jeans, to be carried exclusively in the Ron Herman store on Melrose Avenue. The jeans will retail at $250, and only around 20 pieces of each style will be made. The fi rst model, aptly called the Kaneda, will be available sometime in September. “It’s basically my idea of a great jean that we’re going to share with everyone else,” says the buyer. The next style will be crafted with a yet-to-be-named local lady in mind: “a fi xture in music or fashion in Echo Park, but not a celebrity,” says Kaneda. “This is kind of the opposite of that.”

PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY —Emili Vesilind

1600 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM

June Ambrose

Flamboyant getups are the calling card of this in-demand rock stylist.

NOTHING IRKS LONDON STYLIST Fee Doran got and designer Fee Doran more than the her start behind sight of pop stars wearing the same a turntable. predictable labels. “I hate that look of a girl group all wearing ripped denim skirts,” says Doran, who’s sitting in the whitewashed and ivy-covered fairy-tale shed on her roof, where she retreats for inspiration. “There’s no individualism—I’m inspired by Eighties artists like Grace Jones and Blondie. When I was growing by book the up, I’d see them on TV and I would just be like, ‘Wow.’” So it’s no surprise Doran, who goes by the name of Mrs. Jones, creates customized, Technicolor looks for her clients. She made the white catsuit that heralded Kylie Minogue’s comeback, and outfi ts for Duran Duran, the Scissor Sisters, the Zutons and, most recently, U.S. artist Amp Fiddler. Her signature is a combination of hard-edged Eighties infl uences softened with homemade details. These include fi shnet tanks trimmed with ribbons, silk catsuits in jewel tones and leather jackets with puffed sleeves.

jonesing for a catsuit for jonesing “I want to bring out [the artists’] personalities—I’ll ask what their favorite fi lms are, what inspires A celebrity stylist shares tips them,” says Doran. “If you have the opportunity to borrowed from the A-list. be on stage, it’s a fabulous chance to dress up. You JUNE AMBROSE WANTS TO HELP YOU LOOK FAMOUS. need that visual element, As the founder of celebrity styling house Mode Squad, Ambrose is too.” In addition to creating already responsible for the wardrobes of celebrities such as Mary J. Minogue’s futuristic outfi ts, Blige, Jay-Z, Sean “Diddy” Combs and Mariah Carey. She is the brains Doran put Jake Shears behind Missy Elliott’s tricked-out Adidas hook-ups, Busta Rhymes’ of the Scissor Sisters in metallic suit and Janet Jackson’s shiny second skin from the “What’s patched-up dungarees (worn It Gonna Be?” video, as well bare-chested), the Zutons in as Christina Aguilera’s sexy- a souped-up school uniforms Ambrose’s book is being casual look in her “Come On and Alison Goldfrapp in a promoted like an album. Over” video. blond horsetail attached to a With a new book, pair of HotPants. “Effortless Style: Make Doran, a statuesque Looking Good Look Easy,” 6-footer, honed her due out Oct. 1 from Simon & fl amboyant, costume- Schuster, Ambrose is ready inspired style on the to hook readers up with her underground club circuit. fashion tips and ideas for “I’d make myself denim how to get the most out of catsuits that I couldn’t even personal style. sit down in to wear to DJ in “My ultimate goal pubs in the East End, before is to make fashion less Several of Kylie it became trendy,” says the overwhelming,” Ambrose Minogue’s 38-year-old designer, who says. “If you look at so many costumes are even cut her own record. fashion magazines today, Mrs. Jones When she realized that she they can be intimidating. I creations. was getting noticed more want this book to give you the for her sartorial skills than courage to be open-minded her spinning, Doran briefl y in your clothing choices, launched her own ready- address the issues that to-wear line with London people have about clothes designer Giles Deacon in and show them how to work 1997. Called Doran Deacon, with it.” it was “disco dolly meets The book contains tips mad professor,” she says. that Ambrose has shared with celebrity clients over her more than Doran also collaborated 15 years in the business. Some of them include things like knowing with Matthew Williamson your body type and dressing for it, where to fi nd the best bra, how to on his spring 2001 collection organize your wardrobe and even hints for men. and went on to launch her “Everyone wants to look iconic,” she says. “When you walk down own short-lived label, Mrs. the street, you want to turn heads. It’s just part of who we are as Jones, in September 2002. human beings. This book will help make you look great, no matter Though Doran eventually what your body type is.” decided she preferred creating one-off pieces to the treadmill of designing a runway collection, she To help promote the book, agent Benny Medina, who also works has gone on to do one-time collaborations with companies such as Fred Perry. “I’d already cut up with Carey and Tyra Banks, is taking a page from Ambrose’s friends their shirts to make a mad, fairy-like costume, so I approached them to do a collection,” she says. in the music business. “He’s treating this like an album release, The pieces included electric pink polo dresses with fringe, silk dresses printed with tennis rather than a regular book launch.” balls and a catsuit made from deconstructed polo shirts. “I would like to do a collection again, According to Ambrose, that includes hanging posters in urban areas but only if I can do it properly,” she says. to announce the book launch and distributing handouts near Bryant Doran takes a similar approach to styling, choosing clients based on the quality of their work, Park during New York Fashion Week. Ambrose has also designed rather than its genre. “I’ll only do stuff if I like it. I’ve turned down people like Posh Spice [Victoria the Effortless Style Survival Kit, which she will sell on her Web site, Beckham]. The music has to give me goose-bumps, otherwise there’s no point in doing it.” juneambrose.com, for holiday. The kit, which Ambrose expects to retail Her most recent gig was styling rock musicians for the Ibiza Rocks festival in Spain, but for under $100, includes a dress that can be easily accessorized for Doran says her ideal subject would be Missy Elliott, whom she thinks has untapped sex appeal. day or night, a crewneck top and leggings. It will also contain a booklet “I’d put her in black leather, with a heel—make her look even more sexy.” with tips on how to wear her designs in a variety of ways. —Nina Jones —Julee Greenberg

WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 0017 WWDMUSIC/SECTION II (musical notes) WWD.COM a common thread Several London labels make ready-to-wear as well as records.

MUSICIANS LAUNCHING FASHION BRANDS IS NOTHING include teenage rock group Trafalgar, electro rock artist Whitey new—Beyoncé, Gwen Stefani, J. Lo and Hilary Duff all dabble in and indie outfi t Cosmetique (with Peaches Geldof on vocals), all design. But in London, fashion scenesters are turning the trend on tend to wear skinny jeans, messy hair and lashings of eyeliner, its head, nurturing music labels under their fashion umbrellas. a look that fi ts with PPQ’s rock star-worthy drainpipe jeans and By weaving the two worlds together, musicians get exposure Marianne Faithfull-style smock dresses. “The bands might turn to fashion’s tastemakers, and the apparel brands can tap into the up to PPQ shows, and wear a bit of PPQ on stage, but it’s not underground, word-of-mouth exposure that musicians generate forced,” says Amy Molyneux, Parker’s design partner. through live performances and the Web. Jade Jagger is no stranger to the infl uence of music on “It’s a very English approach—people have to sniff around fashion. The original rock baby has put her street-savvy stamp to fi nd out that the fashion and music label are connected,” says on everything from Garrard jewelry to the New York apartments Rupert Meaker of Buddhist Punk, the ready-to-wear brand that she designed with Philippe Starck. Now Jagger, who bought a quietly launched its own record label last year. home on the legendary party island of Ibiza nine years ago, has Fellow rtw label PPQ entered the music business in similarly brought together performers from the Jezebel night she holds low-key style. “It was never a conscious decision to start the at the Ibizan club Pacha to record on her Jezebel record label. music label, more of a natural progression,” Her clothing line of the same name will bow at says Percy Parker, who is half of the design trade shows this fall. team behind PPQ and directs the brand’s “I like the idea of fashion being led by music record label, 1234. “PPQ started out as a trends, rather than high fashion,” says Jagger. “I collective of people operating in music and art fi nd sometimes that fashion is going too fast to and experimenting in fashion.” catch up.” Her Jezebel collection was inspired Buddhist Punk’s music venture came about by “the basics that we all wear” and will when Tracey Bennet and Alfe Hollingsworth include sweaters, T-shirts and HotPants suits. sold their London Records label, a division Jagger’s laid-back design aesthetic has of Warner. They reopened under the fashion infl uenced the music scene on Ibiza. “There brand last year, after meeting Buddhist Punk is a cross reference between the ideas I have founder Nick Morely in Bali. (Morely has since about art, architecture, fashion, music and left the company.) “We were looking at what jewelry. We wanted to create a new Ibiza sound, we, as an established name, could add to a new to return the island to the way it had been years business that had no brand,” Meaker says. ago, before it was all about electronic music From the music executives’ point of view, and package holidays,” says Jagger. Her label’s Buddhist Punk’s connections in the fashion latest releases employ U.K. hip-hop artists such world provide inspiration for everything from as Estelle, with DJs Marc Ronson and Groove cover art to future signings. “Rupert’s become a great A&R Armada remixing the tracks. “I’d describe it as rock with a hip- source,” says Hollingsworth. “He’ll say, ‘Have you heard about hop beat,” she adds. this band, have you heard about that band?’” Buddhist Punk has Although Jagger and her counterparts shun the idea of selling signed, U.K. hip-hop and R&B outfi t Mattafi x, and is helping to consumers a lifestyle, Hollingsworth says these partnerships are launch the hip-hop artist Jim Screech. an attractive business option for music companies, whose sales “Fashion and music have always been linked—it’s the youth have struggled since the advent of the MP3. market,” says Hollingsworth. “The two work in tandem. Every “Record companies that had enabled artists to build their decade where there’s been a strong energy, fashion and music have brands were not seeing the profi ts when artists went on to launch gone together—look at punk.” their own merchandise. But you can participate in the two The danger, Hollingsworth says, is that the music world’s worlds.” A look from obsession with fashion can put style ahead of substance. “Bands As long as you have the street cred in the fi rst place. “There’s Buddhist Punk. like the Kaiser Chiefs have brought in the trend for bands being more than one European [fashion] label spending an awful lot Inset: Cosmetique clotheshorses, too....Some bands have made it for their personal of effort courting the London indie scene,” Parker says. “The is signed to PPQ’s taste more than their music.” emphasis is on association and exploitation—I think they’re 1234 label. That’s not the case for groups signed to 1234, who Parker says hoping that the effortless cool will rub off.” “got to have the tunes above all else.” The label’s artists, which —Nina Jones record label The album cover for xgLA’s compilation CD doubles as a clothing catalogue. xgLA’s CD catalogue features a bevy of girl bands.

X-GIRL, THE STREETWEAR LABEL CO-FOUNDED BY SONIC YOUTH BASSIST Kim Gordon, is returning to its rock ’n’ roll roots. To promote a new directional brand called xgLA, the 12-year-old company released a compilation CD in collaboration with Contact Records, highlighting up-and-coming girl bands from the U.S., Canada, Britain, Germany and Sweden who wore xgLA’s inaugural spring-summer 2006 collection on the album’s cover and liner notes. The CD, titled “u.s. pop life vol. 19 xgLA: Sophistication meets the streets” and released in June, three months after xgLA’s rollout in boutiques such as Naïve in London and Sirens and Sailors in Los Angeles, doubles as a clothing catalogue. The saxophone player in Sweden’s Midaircondo models a khaki V-neck tank top trimmed in chiffon. The drummer for Los Angeles’ Autolux bangs at her kit in a pink top tied with gold shoelaces. The $15 disk—sold at X-girl stores in Los Angeles, New York and Tokyo; at Tower Records in Japan, and at Other Music and Kim’s Video, both in Manhattan—introduces new bands to fashion plates and fancy frocks to indie rockers. “Some X-girl customers don’t know the music; some music lovers don’t know X-girl,” says Yoko Sawai, the owner of Contact in Brooklyn, N.Y., who also works part-time in X- girl’s shop on Lafayette Street in Manhattan’s NoLIta neighborhood. Targeted at women in their late 20s and early 30s who thought X-girl was too young to wear, xgLA was designed by Naoko Kurosawa, the manager of X-girl’s boutique in Los Angeles’ artsy Los Feliz neighborhood, and Andrew Hinkley, the founder of a men’s label called Lalo. No longer associated with Kim Gordon and now owned by B’s International of Tokyo, X-girl veers toward a dark palette and casual looks comprising T-shirts and hoodies. In contrast, xgLA features cotton shorts with rufﬂ ed suspenders, chiffon dresses in jewel tones and Swarovski crystal-encrusted pendants. Wholesale prices range from $12 for ribbed tanks to $70 for blazers. Kurosawa says she hopes to release another CD catalogue by year’s end. “We want to keep doing it [and] support the artists. It’s good for us and it’s good for them.” —Khanh T.L. Tran

1800 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006

WWDMUSIC/SECTION II

Shaun Leane’s diamond initial (musical notes) necklace.

PParis-basedaris-based rrapperapper UUfﬁfﬁ e.e. bling abroad Hip-hop’s notice-me jewelry is turning some high-fashion heads in Europe.

The Anjuna boutique. BLING TRANSLATES INTO ALMOST ANY LANGUAGE. BUT even though over-the-top, hip-hop-inspired jewelry ranks as a key spring accessories trend in Europe, some independent designers are carving out their own Continental take on the fl ashy phenomenon. “There’s a different style of bling in Europe that’s more sophisticated. It’s not about the size of the rock, it’s about the style and design,” says British designer Shaun Leane, whose past clients have included the Sultan of Brunei. The designer says he prefers creative expression to designing baubles that scream money. Leane’s nascent diamond jewelry collection, launched last year, has attracted such followers as Gwen Stefani and Kate Moss, who, along with Liv Tyler, own diamond and white gold initial necklaces retailing at $2,280. The collection’s yellow diamond and pink sapphire ring, retailing at $1,951, is also a bestseller. “[Alexander] McQueen’s fall show will also be very bling,” hints Leane, who has been collaborating with the designer since 1995. “We’ve reached a stage where we want to bring the jewelry up a level and give it a couture feel,” he says. To be sure, bling is “defi nitely on the up in Britain,” according to London celebrity stylist Chloe Beeney. Originally from Los Angeles, Beeney was recently called upon to dress Diddy’s partner, Kim Porter, for David and Victoria Beckham’s “Full Length and Fabulous” World Cup party in May. The stylist attributes the growing trend to the bling-festooned WAG posse—an acronym adopted by the British press for footballers’ wives and girlfriends. Among the ringleaders is Victoria Beckham, who has sported diamond-encrusted timepieces from Daniel Lazar and Damon Dash’s luxury watch range, Tiret. Also fueling demand for fl ashy jewelry, Beeney says, are current chart-topping music acts such as Lily Allen, who delivers a popular street mix of rap, reggae and hip-hop, and So Solid Crew’s Lisa Mafi a—nicknamed the “24-Carat Princess.” Fast-fashion chains are at the ready. Bling will be one of the main trends represented in H&M’s accessories department for spring, according to a spokeswoman for the Swedish chain. “We’ll be stocking heavy gold chains and other bling elements inspired by the rap and R&B scene,” she says. Topshop’s head of design, Nick Passmore, confi rms that bling-inspired accessories will be a major statement for spring, and that oversize pendants, chains and gold already are hot products. “It’s a look that has grown steadily, but since its origins are street rather than catwalk, it isn’t documented so readily as a rising trend,” she says. Most Brits are adopting a pared-down take on the trend, using it to add a street twist to preppy sportswear brands such as Burberry and Lacoste, rather than baggy tracksuits, according to Beeney. Look-at-me Indian jewelry has also been appropriated as part of the look. “Britain’s bubbling street scene is notorious for borrowing from its immigrant cultures, such as Jamaican or Indian,” Beeney says. European bling brands, meanwhile, are banking on manufacturing fi nesse and creative designs to outshine the competition. “Whereas U.S. brands tend to use heavy Thai silver that’s cheaper and has a darker fi nish, we produce hand-polished chains made from rhodium metal to give a Tiffany-like, preppy vibe,” says 26-year-old Georgi Philip Pecenikov, who took over a defunct Italian chain factory from the Seventies for his up-and-coming brand, Toy Me. Although bling clichés such as sheriff stars and dollar signs sprinkle Toy Me’s

chains—a nod to Pecenikov’s time spent studying in America—European references BELMONTE LUDOVIC DOMINIQUE MAITRE; UFFIE BY ANJUNA PHOTO BY also fi gure. His collaborator, Gnagno, has developed charms based on vintage toys found in Kinder Surprise chocolate eggs for fall. And for spring, Pecenikov will came clamoring. MTV and a number of record labels put in orders and, in 2002, she introduce rocks sourced from high-end diamond dealers in Antwerp, Belgium. scored a prolonged stint as jewelry designer for Lagerfeld Gallery. Such chains have hit a nerve with Europe’s burgeoning bling culture. A batch “France is the land of couture, and we’ve always been about individual style,” bearing DJ charms has been commissioned to promote a new radio channel from says Philippeaux, pointing out her four-fi nger graffi ti ring embedded with jade, trendy Italian magazine Pig in September. And Paris-based rising rap star Uffi e, garnets and moonstone, priced at 3,000 euros ($3,866 at current exchange), or her originally from Miami, often sports a triple-strand Toy Me star chain when she sculpted coral fl ower ring, priced at 500 euros ($644). “It’s about mixing street spirit performs. The hoop-earringed rapper fi nds European bling much more of a discreet with creativity.” affair. “It’s still rare with French girls, but those who wear it pull it off elegantly,” Philippeaux says she is even getting more requests for bling wedding rings, a she says. development she likens to graffi ti entering art galleries. “When bling is no longer Toy Me’s distribution for now remains limited to high-end streetwear stores confi ned to street culture but has been adopted by the bourgeois, or ‘bobo’ set, such as Purple in Milan and Gerard Loft in Florence. “More and more skater and in French, you know it’s hit a nerve,” she says. hip-hop shops are popping up around the country, but it’s still a niche market,” —Katya Foreman Pecenikov says. “I’m planning to play on the line’s European craftsmanship to enter the States this fall.” Paris-based jeweler Beatrice Philippeaux also touts French savoir-faire as her bling de resistance. A graduate of Paris’ prestigious Ecole Boulle, Philippeaux got her fi rst taste of bling when rapper friends approached her to repair broken jewelry brought back from the States. “I noticed that U.S. brands were churning out the same machine-made logos for jewelry, like bling versions of the Coca-Cola symbol,” scoffs Philippeaux, 35. Anjuna’s four- In 1996, she decided to establish her own boutique, Anjuna, where, in tattoo fi nger ring with parlor fashion, sketches are transformed into individualized jewelry. Stylists soon semiprecious stones.

0020 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 WWD.COM beautiful voices Hollywood actresses aren’t the only ones hopping aboard the beauty bandwagon. Some of the hottest pop stars are penning beauty deals on top of their record contracts—whether signing on as spokespeople or licensing their names for fragrances. Here are the major players and their deals. —Michelle Edgar

Jessica Jennifer Katharine Simpson for Jessica Simpson Lopez for McPhee HairDo. for HairDo. Live Luxe.

Shania Twain for Shania by Stetson. DUFF PHOTO BY THEO WARGO/WIREIMAGE DUFF PHOTO BY

Sean “Diddy” Combs Katharine McPhee The deal: Estée Lauder’s contract calls for Combs to play an active role in all The deal: A two-year contract worth about $2.5 million as the Sexy Hair Concepts creative decisions. According to an industry insider, Combs gets $1.5 million per spokeswoman. The company plans to launch a line of products designed for the year for two years for the use of his image and promotional activities, plus a fi ve- “American Idol” fi nalist’s hair type. year 6 percent royalty for the use of his name. Fragrances: Unforgivable Couture by Sean John, Unforgivable by Sean John. Jessica Simpson The deal: Simpson launched a beauty line, Dessert, in 2004. Then, in March, she KT Tunstall and business partner Ken Pavés signed a three-year contract with Hair U Wear. The deal: Estée Lauder’s Origins brand signed Tunstall to its Guest Editor Program Industry sources estimate the hairpieces could generate $25 million in fi rst-year in May. She appears at in-store events and charity functions. An “Origins Oasis” at retail sales. WWD reported that Dessert’s prestige line brought in $55 million at retail concerts offers fans massages and product samples. as of February 2005. Dessert Treats, a less pricey version of Simpson’s prestige line was projected to do upward of $70 million in its fi rst year, according to Randi Shinder, Rihanna and Julie Roberts president and founder of licensee Dlish Fragrances Inc. Products: HairDo Clip-In The deal: The pop princess and the country singer have one-year contracts with Wavy Extensions, HairDo Clip-In Straight Extensions, HairDo 100% Human Hair Clip- Estée Lauder’s Clinique brand. Each will sing a version of singer-songwriter Ne- In Extensions; plus the Dessert and Dessert Treats lines. Yo’s “Just Be Happy” in radio spots for the Happy fragrance this winter. Clinique distributed more than 25,000 samples in 21 markets on Rihanna’s summer tour. Mariah Carey The deal: Signed with Elizabeth Arden in April for the development, marketing and Beyoncé distribution of fragrances with her exclusive endorsement. The fi rst is set to bow in The deal: She signed a contract with L’Oréal Paris in February 2001 and another prestige department stores next spring. Sources estimate Carey receives between $1.5 with Estée Lauder’s Tommy Hilfi ger True Star fragrance in January 2004. Industry million to $2 million per year for the use of her image, plus 6 percent in royalties. sources say she receives $1.5 million to $2 million per year for each contract, which lasts for 18 months to two years. Experts estimated True Star Gold would do Hilary Duff $20 million to $25 million at retail its fi rst year. Represents: L’Oréal Paris’ Féria The deal: Signed an exclusive global licensing agreement for a line of fragrances haircolor, True Match Super-Blendable Makeup and HIP, High Intensity Pigments; and cosmetics with Elizabeth Arden in July. According to an industry source, Duff Hilfi ger’s True Star and True Star Gold. (Enrique Iglesias represents True Star receives a 5 percent royalty on sales of With Love Hilary Duff, which is expected to Men.) do $30 million at retail its fi rst year. Fragrance: With Love Hilary Duff hits counters in September. Debbie Harry, Lisa Marie Presley, Dita Von Teese and Eve The deal: Each signed a one-year contract with Estée Lauder’s MAC Cosmetics for Britney Spears its Viva Glam lipstick campaign, which raises money for the MAC AIDS Fund. Since The deal: Inked a fragrance and beauty franchise deal with Elizabeth Arden in the AIDS Fund was founded, the Viva Glam line has raised more than $50 million. March 2004. According to an industry source, Spears receives at least a 5 percent royalty fee over a fi ve-year contract. In May the company celebrated more than $300 Kylie Minogue million in global retail sales—and more than 10 million units sold—since Curious The deal: Coty plans to build Minogue a “house of fragrances over the next fi ve Britney Spears launched in September 2004. Fragrances: Curious Britney Spears, years” says Steve Mormoris, senior vice president of global marketing for Coty Fantasy Britney Spears, In Control Curious Britney Spears, with a fl anker to Fantasy Beauty. Industry sources speculate that many of Coty’s celebrity deals are three- to set for a fall launch. fi ve-year contracts worth $1 million a year, plus royalties of 1 to 2 percent of sales. Fragrance: Darling by Kylie Minogue launches in Australia, the U.K. and Ireland in Jennifer Lopez November, followed by a U.S. rollout in January. The deal: J. Lo and Coty jump-started the celebrity scent category back in 2002. According to an industry source, Lopez recieves $1.5 million per year for the use Celine Dion of her image plus a 6 percent royalty, with Live Luxe alone capable of generating The deal: Coty signed Dion in 2002. Since then her scents reportedly have amassed worldwide sales of $30 million its fi rst year. Fragrances: Glow by JLo, Still Jennifer global retail sales close to $100 million. The addition of Belong is expected to bump Lopez, Miami Glow, Live Jennifer Lopez, and Love at First Glow; Live Luxe retail sales to $120 million, meaning Dion could take home more than $6 million in Jennifer Lopez launched earlier this month. royalties, not including any signing bonuses. Fragrances: Celine Dion Parfums, Celine Dion Notes, Celine Dion Belong and Celine Dion Always Belong. Celine Dion Enchanting will launch in Europe in Hilary Sean Julie September, followed by a U.S. launch next spring. Duff “Diddy” Roberts Hilary Combs Shania Twain Duff The deal: Coty signed Twain in 2004. Industry sources expect Shania by Stetson to generate $20 million to $30 million in its fi rst year, with the singer collecting a 6 percent royalty fee on those sales. Fragrance: Shania by Stetson.

Queen Latifah The deal: Signed with Procter & Gamble Beauty’s Cover Girl brand in 2001 as a spokeswoman. Represents: LashExact Mascara, Cover Girl Queen Collection. KT Tunstall

WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006 0021 WWDMUSIC/SECTION II Check Yo’ WWD.COM Ponytail at Safari Sam’s. (coda) Zouk

Kash Point

Le Paris Paris Just Cavalli Café

Spy Bar PHOTOS: SPY BAR BY JOEL RHODIN; SAFARI SAM’S BY TODD WILLIAMSON SAM’S BY JOEL RHODIN; SAFARI PHOTOS: SPY BAR BY A look at some of the world’s best club nights get in the groove the get in and what to wear to get past the door.

BERLIN Resident heroes: On Thursdays, DJs Marco Polo Cecere and Roberto Praderi spin 103 Club London-style house music. “People go crazy on the dance fl oor with Bob Sinclar’s Hidden away, without a sign, in a sprawling warehouse on one of Berlin’s hippest single ‘World, Hold On’ and ‘Same Man’ from Till West & DJ Delicious,” says Praderi. streets, 103 Club features two fl oors of lounging and grooving, as well as trademark Sempione Park, Viale Camoens, beneath the Branca Tower; +39.02.311.817; lighting installations and regular art events. justcavallicafe.com. —Vanessa Silva Dress code: Jeans and sneakers are the norm, and looking like you tried too hard is cause for dismissal. PARIS Playlist: The focus is on electro, with regular hip-hop, rock and grime parties. Le ParisParis Best night: Held on the third Friday of every month, “Good Life” attracts a diverse This mirrored basement boîte near the Palais Royale is a favorite of the fashion and mix of revelers with superstar DJs such as Kid Alex spinning electro downstairs and art set—and diffi cult to get in. a disco party upstairs, hosted by drag queen Gloria Viagra. Dress code: An eccentric mix of designer duds, stylish vintage and Parisian chic. Resident heroes: The musical roster includes DJs James Lavelle, Kaos, DJ Hell and Playlist: Colette dance classes move to the music of Madonna’s “Vogue” and Michael Sasha Funke, as well as Erlend Oye from Kings of Convenience and local electro Jackson’s “Thriller,” as well as old-school hip-hop and salsa. band Jahcoozi. Resident heroes: The Kitsune boys, Massaya and Gildas, as well as Ed Bangers boss Falckensteinstrasse 47; +4903.0695.15612; 103club.de. —Damien McGuiness Pedro Winter turn the tables. 5 Avenue de l’Opera; leparisparis.com. —Laurent Folcher LONDON Kash Point NEW YORK Outrageousness is the order of the day at this monthly club night that’s a favorite Cielo of the young, stylish set. “We encourage people to express how they feel through Consistently ranked one of the best clubs in the world, Cielo’s tough but attitude- appearance, art, music, whatever it takes,” explains organizer Matthew Glamorre. free door policy and sunken dance fl oor are designed to help patrons cut loose. Dress code: With themes such as “Day-Glo Dickens,” “Battle of the Boutiques” Dress code: Trendy, grown-up club kid. or “Garden Party,” makeup, masks, hats and handmade costumes are a matter of Playlist: Some of the best house music in techno-heavy New York. Monday night’s course. “It’s style on a sixpence,” says Glamorre. “People come in everything from “Deep Space” party features Francois K, of the legendary “Body & Soul” party, eveningwear to electric fences.” diving into dub and dabbling in soulful house and drum & bass. Playlist: “It’s left-fi eld pop. It goes between avant-garde disco and rock. It’s very Resident heroes: Francois K, Louis Vega, Kevin Hedge, Nicolas Matar. eclectic,” he says. 18 Little West 12th Street; 212.645.5700. —Amy S. Choi Next up: Kash Point’s “Un-Wanted” will be held Sept. 22 at The Eve Club to celebrate the end of London Fashion Week. The theme is aptly centered on wearing SINGAPORE everything that’s “out of fashion” in your closet. Zouk 3 New Burlington Street; +44.207.734.4252; kashpoint.com. —Lucie Greene The iconic Zouk, a staple of Singapore nightlife for 15 years, is really four clubs in one—but the most exclusive is the lounge-like Velvet Underground. LOS ANGELES Dress code: The tropical climate keeps things cool and casual, while edgy touches Check Yo’ Ponytail at Safari Sam’s such as spiked hair for the men, heavy eyeliner for the ladies and trendy clothes for On Tuesdays, this restaurant-bar-club located in an unassuming 99 Cent Store everyone keep the fashion quotient high. parking lot is a so-hip-it-hurts nighttime haunt for L.A.’s disaffected youth. Playlist: A mix of house, hip-hop and Top 40 dance hits. Dress code: Tent dresses, high-waisted belts, hip haircuts, dark skinny jeans, ’tude. Heroes: DJs from Europe and around Asia are big draws. Playlist: DJ Frankie Chan spins tunes from MSTRKRFT, Vitalic, Thao Nguyen and 17 Jiak Kim Street; +65.6378.2988, zoukclub.com.sg. —Betsy Lowther Kill Hannah, among others. Resident hero: Mia Weinsider of White Trash Charms is one of the hosts. STOCKHOLM 5214 West Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood; 323.666.7267. —Katharine Brandes Spy Bar One of the few outdoor clubs here, this is the city’s hippest hangout. MILAN Dress code: Expensive and trendy; skinny jeans and high-end sneakers. Just Cavalli Café – Just Flower Garden Playlist: Resident DJ Asia delivers retro remixes such as Brian Eno and David This huge open-air garden festooned with designer Roberto Cavalli’s signature Byrne’s Eighties’ masterpiece “My Life in the Bush of Ghosts.” Maria Andersson and blend of animal prints and vivid colors attracts models, actors, footballers and Josephine Forsman from rock group Sahara Hotnights also play gigs. socialites. Come fall, DJ Moti moves his lounge beats inside the intimate restaurant. Resident hero: Andreas Kleerup, the percussionist for several infl uential Swedish Dress code: Trendsetters are welcome, especially girls in shorts, miniskirts and pop groups, DJs here. stilettos, but bouncers bar the door to what they dub the “after-swimming-pool look.” Corner of Humlegårdsgatan and Sturegatan; +46.08.5450.7656. —Katya Foreman

22 WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 31, 2006

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