HAA AN UN-EXPLORED VALLEY, UNCOMMON MYTHS

Traveler’s Guide Welcome to Haa!

The Bhutan Chamber of Commerce & Industry (BCCI) is pleased to bring out this publication on tourism attractions of Haa Dzongkhag. The Chamber be- lieves that there is a potential to package and promote each Dzongkhag as an exclusive tourists destination. As a step towards heading to this endeavor, it is essential to profile the attractions and document it, which will guide the visitors as well as the tour service providers. To this end, the Chamber has undertaken profiling of tourists attractions of Haa Dzongkhag to organize in the form of information booklet.

This publication attempts to put together all the information essential for the visitors coming to Haa and those facilitating to manage tours within the Dzongkhag. This information booklet which is expected to serve as a guide for the travelers and to those packaging the tours carry profiles of historical sites in the Dzongkhag and its significance. It also has information on various community-based ethnic festivals, its significance and when these festivals are held. What tour activities one could undertake while in Haa is also detailed out in this information booklet.

I hope this booklet gives the readers with adequate first-hand information that would enable planning of activities while visiting Haa.

UGEN TSECHUP DORJI PRESIDENT

Contents HAA Historical ... at your Sites of Fingertips Bji Gewog

When to visit Yangthang Gonpa How to get into Haa Valley Tsenge Gonpa Haa Weather Jadu Trashidingkha Gonpa Accommodation Geychu Lhakhang Getting around Haa Tenchung Gonpa

Essential Historical Infomation Sites of Esu Gewog Currency Foreign Exchange Facility Banks and Automated Teller Ma- Lhakhang Karpo chines (ATM) Lhakhang Nagpo Mobile Services Pagyal Lhakhang Internet Access Tsunthang Lhakhang Postal Services Takchu Gonpa Shelkardra Historical Gonsakha Haa Gonpa Sites of Sacred Place of Guru Yibri Katsho Gewog Lungtshokha Lhakhang

Katsho Gonpa Bjungnedra Lhakhang Karma Sharsa’s Sacred sites Drana Tashiding Monastery Contents

Historical Sites of HAA Samar Gewog Festivals

Purdung Lhakhang Ap Chundu Soelkha Lhakhangchen Bonku Chuzar Lhakhang - Yangthang Bongku Dorikha Gonpa - Kibri Bongku Phurdrak - Dumchu Bongku - Tshaphel Bongku - Kana Bongku and Historical - Bali Bongku Lomba Sites of Haa Summer Festival Haa Tsechu Sombaykha Geto Jabjur Gewog Wangtsa Goencham Lungkha Lhakhang Goencham Sangbey Dzong Khando Soel Temples of Sombaykha

Trekkings Historical In Sites of Haa Valley Gakiling Gewog

Haa Valley Ancient Route Trek Sagala Trek Rangtse Dorji Phagmoi Nye Nub Tshona Patta Trek Rangtse Nye Lake Botsho Contents

HAA Other Day Entertainment Hikes Activities

Fishing (Haa Chu) Photography Tour Yangthang Glimpse of Education Artifacts in - Hatey Day Hike Sherig Museum Bjungnedra - Katsho Gonpa Day Hike Jyenkhakha - Jamtey Gonpa - Yangthang Gonpa Day Hike Bagena - Shekardrang - Tagchu Gonpa Day Hike Wangtsa - Katsho Gonpa Day Hike Day Excursion to Drana Trashidhinkha Gonpa

Cycling Tours

Chelela - Haa Cycling Haa - Damthang Cycling Haa - Chunzom Cycling Biking around Meri Puensum Brief Background of Haa Valley

Haa Dzongkhag is situated at an elevation of 2,670m (8,758 ft) above the sea level that encompasses a total area of 1,899.02 Sq. It is surrounded by Tibet to the north, and bordered by the districts of Samtse, Chukha and Paro to the southwest, southeast and east respectively.

Haa is one of the least populated Dzongkhags after Gasa. The Dzongkhag has a total of 1,137 households. The dominant language of the district is Dzongkha, the national language of Bhutan.

Until 1960, Haa was a Drungkhag (sub-district), which was later upgraded to a Dzongkhag in the 1960s by His Majesty the Third King of Bhutan. In the past, Haa was also referred to as “Ha Jue Zhi” which included Katsho, Esu, Samar and Bji.

Today, the Dzongkhag is administratively divided into one Dungkhag and six Gewogs namely, Bji, Eusu, Katsho, Samar, Sombaykha and Gakiling.

Topographically, Haa Dzongkhag is characterized by a rugged and mountain- ous terrain. The vegetation ranges from broad leafed forest in the southern Gewogs to coniferous and sub alpine in the central, and pure alpine vegetation in the high lands of the northern Gewogs. The Dzongkhag is endowed with very rich flora and fauna and about 60% of the Dzongkhag is under forest cov- er. In terms of the diversity of flora and fauna, the uppers valley of Haa alone has over 250 species of flowering plants including the Blue Poppy (national flower) and White Poppy (Mecopnopsis Superba) which is endemic to Haa.

Wheat is the main cereal crop grown in the Dzongkhag. Other crop varieties include barley and buckwheat. Potato constitutes the principal cash crop for the Dzongkhag, while apples and vegetables are also cultivated on a moder- ate scale. Livestock rearing constitutes an important economic activity in the Dzongkhag, with a majority of the northern Gewogs depending on livestock products such as butter, cheese and yak meat for their livelihood. MERI PUNSUM - The Cultural Mirror of Haa

As you put your first step into Haa, you will be greeted by the towering Meri Punsum - Three Brother Hills of alike shape and magnificance.

These three identical hills standing majestically in Haa valley symbiolizes Rigsum Gonpo - Jampleyang (Manjushiri), Chana Dorjee (Vajrapani) and Chenrezid (Avalok- istesvara). Meri Punsum is considered very sacred and worshipped by the people of Haa with high veneration. HAA at your Fingertips

When to visit

How to get into Haa Valley

Haa Weather

Accommodation

Getting Around Haa Haa at Your Fingertips

When to visit Haa How to get into Haa valley

Bhutan with its busy festival calen- There are different routes to get into dar spread throughout the year is Haa velley. After landing at Paro In- considered to be a destination one ternational Airport, one could decide could visit any time of the year to on the route, probably after discuss- explore and enjoy its attractions. ing with the agent. One option would However, spring and autumn are be to drive directly to Haa from Paro considered to be the best time to vis- passing Chelela pass (3,988 me- it Bhutan. Spring and autumn sea- tre above the sea level), the highest sons in Bhutan are considered to be road pass in Bhutan. Chelela pass the most ideal time for touring and has amazing views of the himalayan hiking. Autumn is also the time for mountains and most signifcantly, popular festivals of Bhutan. the Mt. Jhomolhari. The drive on this route could be combined with With its pristine forest and rugged cycling. hills, Haa valley offers an excel-

lent location for some of the best One can also take the alternate route day hikes and trekkings. Like any from Paro through Chunzom to Haa. other places in the country, spring The journey on this route could also and autumn is the best time to visit be combined with cycling and sight- Haa. One could also visit Haa dur- seeing. ing summer and winter to witness

the distinctive Haa Summer Festival Adventurous travellers could also and other unique ethnic festivals. enter Haa valley by trekking on the Most of the rare and unique tradi- existing trek routes. Trekking dura- tional festivals of Haa also happens tion could range from 3 - 4 days de- during winter. One could also visit pending on the route chosen. Haa valley during winter for explor- ing its attraction and experiencing cold winter season of Bhutan. Haa Weather

Haa valley has cold and dry winters and wet and warm summers. In winter, the temperature drops down to minus 7 degree Celsius at the extreme mini- mum. The Dzongkhag receives snowfall several times in a year from late No- vember till early March. One could plan trippacking considering the average temperatures for different seasons.

Month Temperature Average Tem- Average Rain- (Degree Cel- perature fall (Millim- sius) eter) January Max 10.2 1.8 0 Min -6.6 February Max 12.9 4.1 17.4 Min -4.7 March Max 14.7 6.5 12.2 Min -1.7 April Max 16.6 9.75 60.9 Min 2.9 May Max 19.2 13.85 54.7 min 8.5 June Max 20.8 16.6 148.1 Min 12.4 July Max 20.5 17.65 110.9 Min 14.8 August Max 21.4 17.4 189.3 Min 13.4 September Max 20 15.35 162.7 Min 10.7 October Max 18.2 10.95 23.2 Min 3.7 November Max 14.4 7.3 5.3 Min 0.2 December Max 11.8 4.15 0 Min -3.8 Annual Average 10.5 785 Accommodation

Like other places in the country, Haa valley does not have many ho- tels with modern amenities. Yet, one would not be left without one! Ac- commodation experience in Haa will be one of the exciting memories of the visit that should make the tour a complete one.

One could choose to stay in the ho- tels with modern amenities or opt for homestay. Haa is popular for homestay programs and it has one of the best homestays in the country. Haa valley has different homestay programs to suit the visitors. One could choose to go for “Bed & Break- fast” style accommodation as well.

One could also get involved with the host-family in sharing meals and at- tending family events for the first- hand experience of customs, cuisine and the way of life. Accommodation in the homestay would provide op- portunities to see the very basic ways of living and managing a normal family set-up. Getting around Haa

Haa Town per se is not very big and crowded like other towns of Bhutan. Traf- fic is not busy like in Thimphu, Phuntsholing, Paro and other bigger towns.

Haa is pedestrian friendly, as there are not many cars on the road. One can explore Haa town and nearby areas by walking around. But beware of street dogs! Although there is no separate cycle lane, one could use the motor road for cycling to move in and around Haa town.

The tour agent will arrange the transportation for sightseeing if one has come through an organized channel (Tour agent). Visiters coming on their own can get car on hire for sightseeing. Local taxis are also available to take the visitors around for sightseeing. Essential Information

Currency Foreign Exchange Fa- cility The official currency of Bhutan is Ngultrum (Nu). Bank notes are Bhutan does not have authorized available in denominations of 1, 5, private foreign exchangers. One will 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1000. Indi- have to exchange money either from an Rupee (denomination below 500) the airport or from the Banks. Some is a legal tender in Bhutan and can hotels do provide currency exchange be used for payments. US Dollars are facilities. Some shops do buy foreign also accepted for payment. However, currency but rates they offer may it is advisable to have some amount fluctuate. of currency changed to Bhutanese Ngultrum for small payments. Banks and AutoA mated Teller Ma- chines

Bank of Bhutan Limited has its branch office at Haa. There is also Bhutan National Bank Ltd’s exten- sion office at Haa. ATM facilities for these major banks are located within the bank premises or at separate lo- cations within a walking distance. Instructions are generally displayed in English.

Mobile service

Bhutan has two mobile service pro- viders, Bhutan Telecom Ltd and Tashi Cell. One can get network in Haa for both the services. Sim cards can be purchased from the author- ized dealers. Recharge cards are available from almost all the shops in the town.

Internet Access

One can have access to Internet through Internet cafes that charge a nominal rate. 3G connectivity ser- vice is also accessible within Haa Valley.

Postal Services

Bhutan Postal Corporation Ltd, un- dertaking of government of Bhutan has its branches all over the districts and sub-districts. These branch of- fices provide wide range of postal services.

There are also registered courier ser- vice providers. Historical Sites 1 of Katsho Gewog Katsho Gonpa that place. Follwoing this, Karmapa named the village as Katsho. Lo- Katsho Gonpa is one of the four big- cals say that the village was initially ger temples of Haa. Connected by a called “Atam”. 3-KM farm road from Haa town, this sacred temple was founded by Lam Bjungneydra Choying Gyatsho, the disciple of Drakpa Gyatsho. A hundred million Bjungeydra, which is dedicated to mani recitation held for twenty-one Guru Rinpoche is situated at 2930 days from 13th day of twelfth month meters above the sea level. One could take either of the three differ- ent routes to get to the temple. The travel time to the site would range from half an hour to one hour.

There are many sacred sites in the vicinity of Bjungneydra.The locals narate that Guru Rinpoche visited this place and subdued a demon by to 20th day of first month of the taking out one of its eyes and one Bhutanese Calendar (Lunar) is the fang. It is believed that the eye and major annual event for the Gonpa. the fang were placed on the cliff and the marks can be seen even today. Katsho village has its own history on how it got the name Katsho. It is be- One can see different naturally lived that the first Karmapa Dusum formed sacred shapes on the rocks, Khyenpa who visited this place in such as forms of Mahakali, golden the eleventh century has given the and silver bowls, and syllable ‘Ah’. name Katsho. According to the lo- cal elders, Karmapa enquired about The visitors to this sacred place can the crops grown in the village. To also see frowning face of the Guard- this, people replied “ kar tsho”, ian of the Gate (sgo srung khro zhal), which means wheat grows well in a stupa of natural rock and the yoni rock saw stars (Karma) in the sky on (bha ga) of Dakini. a broad daylight.

One could see naturally inscribed syllables ‘Ah’ and ‘Hung’ inscribed on a rock. An inscription in Dakini’s code script on a rock slab, together with the naturally formed stone lock and stone key of the sacred place is also visible.

As one goes further up, piles of rock in the shape of Kangyur volumes, the translated Buddha-words can be seen. One can also see a body im- print of Guru Rinpoche on the cliff.

Drana Tashiding

Bjungneydra Nye also houses the Drana Tashiding temple is one of right footprint of Mache Lhab- the four major temples of Haa. This dron (1055-1132), a female Tibetan temple was the religious seat of Tantric practitioner. It is believed Shakya Tenzin, the second speech that her left foot print is at Pelphug/ reincarnation of Zhabdrung. The Paro Taksang. temple was founded in the eight- eenth century by Shakya Tenzin. Karma Sharsa’s Drana Tashiding temple, which is Sacred sites one and half an hour walk from Ingo village, houses an institute for basic Locals narate that the place was level of monastic education . called Karma Sharsa after one Lama (saint) who was mediating on the

Historical Sites 2 of Bji Gewog Yangthang Gonpa cated in the upper Talung Village. Talung village is approximately two Yangthang Gonpa is one of the larg- kilometers drive from Makazam. est temples of Haa. It is situated on Two kilometres extended drive from the hilltop of Chubugang in Yangth- Talung village centre will take one ang village. Yangthang village is to a point from where one will start three kilometres drive from Haa walking upward to Tsenge Gonpa. town. An additional two kilometres drive from Yangthang will take one Jadu Trashidingkha to Yangthang Gonpa. Gonpa

Yangthang Gonpa was founded by Jadu Trashidingkha Gonpa is one of Lam Thinley Gyatsho, the disci- the four largest temples of Haa. It ple of Lam Choying Gyatsho. The is connected by roughly four kilo- two-storeyed temple houses an Av- metres of road. The road to Jadu alokiteshvara shrine in lower storey Trashingkha passes through Tsenge and a shrine of Dharmakaya, Samb- Gonpa and from there it will be ap- hogakaya and Nirmanakaya, and the proximately two kilometres addi- shrine of Lam Thinley Gyatsho in the tional drive to reach Jadu Trashid- upper storey. ingkha Gonpa.

One million mani recitation organ- The local elders narrate that ized for twenty one days in the first Drubthob Chewang Trashi founded month of Bhutanese Calendar is an the Gonpa. It is believed that Je annual event of the Gonpa. Sherab Gyeltsen later relocated the temple to the present site. Tsenge Gonpa The former site of the temple, which Tsenge Gonpa is one of the four is about five minutes walk from the small temples of Haa. Gyalwa Got- present site has a big juniper tree. shangpa Gonpo Dorji founded the This holy tree is believed to have temple in 1189. This temple is lo- grown from the walking staff of Drubthob Chewang Trashi. upper Haa valley. The biography has Geychu Lhakhang it that the temple was built by Lam Drugyelpo in 1814, and it was conse- Geychu Lhakhang is located in the crated by Zhabdrung Jigme Norbu. upper Haa valley, which is approxi- mately fourteen kilometres from Haa town. This temple is located just a few minutes walkingdistance below the Haa-Damthang road. Gey- chu Lhakhang is said to have been built by Lam Ugyen Thinley.

Geychu is one of the Gyon Khangs of Ap Chundu. There is a water source on the right side of the temple, which is believed to be scared to Ap Chun- du. One belief which is in practice even today by the people living there is refraining of rearing pigs and roasting pork to prevent offending Ap Chundu.

Behind the temple there is also a rock in the shape of a seat, which is believed to be the place where Zhab- drung Ngawang Namgyal sat on it.

Tenchung Gonpa

Tenchung Gonpa is one of the four small temples of Haa. It is located on the other side of the river in the

Historical Sites 3 of Esu Gewog Lhakhang Karpo built where the black rays of light that emanated from the body of Lhakhang Karpo is one of the most Songtsen Gampo had faallen. sacred monasteries of Haa. Lhakang There are other accounts pertaining

Karpo, or the “White Temple,” is lo- cated just above Haa-Thimphu high way and it houses the district Mo- to Lhakhang Karpo & Nagpo. One nastic Body of Haa. common belief is that these two temples were built at a site where a It is said that Lhakhang Karpo was white pigeon flew, which was ema- built on the site where the white rays nation of Songtsen Gampo. Another of light that emanated from the body belief accounts that these temples of Songtsen Gampa, the Darma King were built by three different groups of Tibet had fallen. of people who emerged spontane- ously from Miri Puen Sum, the three Lhakhang Nagpo hills of Haa.

Lhakhang Nagpo, or the “Black Temple,” the other sacred monas- Pagyal Lhakhang try in Haa is situated a little above Lhakhang Karpo, which is approxi- Pagyal Lhakhang is located seven mately 5 - 10 minutes walk from kilimeters away from Girina village. Lhakhang Karpo. This Lhakhang is connected by farm It is said that Lhakhang Nagpo was road that goes through Girina vil- lage. From this Lhakhang one canhave the temple, which is believed to amazing view of mountains such as have sprung from the walking stick Serila, Tegola, Gyalrila, and Langla. of Chogley Yeshi Ngodrup. It is said that Chogley Yeshi Ngodrup used Tsunthang Lhakhang to spend his leisure time under the tree between and after granting em- Tsunthang Lhakhang was built by powerment (dwang), transmissions Drubthob Wangchuk Gyaltshen. (lung) and instruction (khrid) to his One can take farm road that goes students. through Girina till Sangkiri village. It will be approximately an hour As an annual event, the Gonpa or- walk to Lhakhang from the nearest ganizes hundred million mani reci- road point. tation for twenty one days from the 13th day of the twelfth month to Tsunthang Lhakhang has good view 20th day of the first month of Bhu- of Langla and Sengrila mountains. tanese calendar.

Takchu Gonpa Shelkardra

Takchu Gonpa is one among the four Shelkardra is one of the sacred major temples of Haa. This temple is places associated to Guru Rinpoche. locatedabove the Lungtsho Village. Shelkardra is located behind Avalok- It is connected by a road that goes iteshvara Hill, which is the middle from Dumcho bridge. hill of the three hills of Haa known as Miri Pun Sum. Takchu Gonpa was built by Lam Sangay Gyatsho. Later, Chogley Shelkardra means combination of Yeshi Ngodrup, the speech reincar- three terms. Shel in Dzongkha re- nation of Zhabdrung also visited and ferred to as crystal like cliff where lived in the temple. the temple is located, kar which means white and dra which means One can see a juniper tree behind cliff in Dzongkha. It is said that the sixth speech incarnation of Zab- drung Jigme Tenzin, lived in Shelk- chuk Lodzong, Haa town, Miri Pun ardra temple during his early age. Sum, and other places.

There is a flat land above Shelkardra Haa Gonpa and it is believed that the fortunate ones can see a lake and variety of Haa Gonpa is located above the fruits on this flat land. Tshaphe village, at an attitude of 2850 meters. Haa Gonpa was People narrates that the water pond founded by a siddha (saint) called by the cliff appeared as a pond of milk to Rani Choying Dorji. At that time she was carrying in her womb, Her Majesty Azhi Kesang Choden Wangchuk, the Queen of the Third King.

Gonsakha

Gonsakha is one of the four small temples of Haa. It is situated at 2700 meters above the sea level. Lam Shakya Tenzin, the second speech incarnation of Zhabdrung built the temple.

The temple is about an hour walk from the Tshaphel village. An annual hundred million recitation of mani is conducted here for twenty-one days during the first month of Bhutanese Calendar. Gonsakha has amazing view of Yangthang Gonpa, Wang- Doyen Zhakpa. The temple is little more than hour walk from the Haa- Lungtshokha Lhakhang was found- Thimphu highway. There is a water ed by Chogley Yeshi Ngodrup, the source in front of the temple, which speech reincarnation of Zhabdrung. is believed to be a blessed water. The temple is situated at lower part of the village below Takchu Gonpa. From Haa Gonpa one can view Tak- chu Gonpa and two of the three hills Lungtshokha Lhakhang houses the of Haa, known as Miri Pun Sum. statue of Guru Rinpoche and statue Lungtshokha of Chogley, which he made with his Lhakhang own hand. Historical Sites 4 of Samar Gewog

Lhakhangchen was built by Lam Yonten Yezer. It is located above the main road near Lhakhangchenkha village. It is connected by a farm road.

The way to this temple diverts from the main road, just before reaching Jenkana. This farm road further di- vides into two direction from the bridge. The road towards the right that goes to Lhakhangchen village Purdung lhakhang takes the visitors to the temple.

Purdung Lhakhang is located on the Chuzar Lhakhang other side of the Haa Chhu and faces the Jenkhana village. One can have Chuzar Lhakhang was built by San- a clear view of the temple from the gay Lhungten, a Buddhist saint, who Thimphu-Haa highway. Purdung came to Bhutan from Tibet. The Lhakhang is approxinately 10 - 20 temple is approximately half an hour minutes walk from the main road. walk from Pagyalkha village.

Beside the temple’s own significance, It is said that the current site of the the blessed water source below it is temple was chosen by the saint while other sacred site to be visited. Locals sitting on a rock in the middle of believed that the water source may Haa Chu. The rock, which looks like have been very close to the temple. a three-layer seat on which the saint However, it may have been moved to sat on is visible in winter when the the present location because of the water level is low. defilement. In the vicinity of the temple one can Lhakhangchen see blessed water source and imprint In the vicinity of the temple one can side the big cliff on the other side see blessed water source and imprint of the stream that flows down from of Lam’s foot and body on the rock. Serder (Seteknang) under Samar Chuzar Lhakhang also has a good Gewog. It is said that Terton Sherab view of Langla, Sangrila and Serila. Mebar brought down meteoric iron by performing magic and tried to un- Dorikha Gonpa cover the treasure of ritual dagger, but he failed because the Treasure Dorikha Gonpa was built by Tsher- Guardian obstructed him. ing Phuntsho,who was a clerk in Paro Rimpung then. It is said that If one descends from Phurdrak, the forty ninth Je Khenpo Rinzin there is a Gyatsha (a hybrid bull) in Nyingpo also lived in this temple. a jumping position formed of natu- ral rock on a cliff, which is loacted The nearby Gonpa areas are sa- on other side of the stream. It is be- cred to Guru Rinpoche. If one goes lieved that at times the face of the further from the temple, you will gyatsha turns black which is a bad come across a hoof mark of Guru omen that may befall on the cattles Rinpoche’s riding horse and a mark in that locality. on the rock, which Guru Rinpoche made with his sword.

From Dorikha Gonpa one can see Jabar Gonpa, Tsondru Gonpa, Darkala and Kilaila.

Phurdrak

The local elders narrate that there is a deaf Treasure Guardian (gter bdag) protecting the treasure of a ritual dagger (phur pa) hidden in-

Historical Sites 5of Sombaykha Gewog Sangbey Dzong delivered to Paro Penlop.

It is said that Sangbey Dzong Temples of was built for guarding the Sombaykha western frontier of Bhutan. The Dzong then was un- Besides Sangbey Dzong, there der the jurisdiction of Paro are several other small tem- Penlop. However, the need ples one could visit. Some for the Dzong to gaurd the of these temples are Nepbi mountain borders became Gonpa, Terbe Lhakhang, Ana less significant, after Bhutan Gonpa, Sichar Lhakhang, could establish a strong rela- Mochu Lhakhang, Pangring- tion with India. mo Lhakhang and Rangtse Lhakhang. Nepbi Gonpa and It is said that the government Terbe Lhakhang are con- then used to appoint treasurer sidered to be the two most for Sangbay Dzong to coordi- sacred temples among these nate collection of taxes to be temples. Historical Sites 6 of Gakiling Gewog Rangtse Dorje Phag- Two sacred sites in this Nye are Guru moi NYE Drubkhang (the meditation place of Guru) and Khandro Drubkhang (the Rangtse Dorje Phagmoi Nye is a sa- meditation place of Dakini). One cred place of Vajravarahi. This Nye can see Guru’s vajra, Dakini’s yoni, is located above the Tanga village. It the lotus flower, and religious -arti is approximately a two-day journey cles and instruments such as drum, from Haa Balam and takes the same horn, gyaling inside these two Drub- time for the vistors visiting from khangs. One can also see the images Samtse side. The locals call it Sang- of Guru Dorji Drolo (the wrathful wai Bayul Nye, literally meaning form of Guru Rinpoche), Dakini and “the scared place of the secret hid- Sangye Tongku (thousand sand im- den land” or Dorje Phagmoi Nye(the age of Buddha). It is believed that sacred place of Vajravarahi). the fortunate ones could see many other images and menifestations on On the top level of this Nye, one can the rocks in the vicinity of Nye. see forms of a sow (phang mo), Bud- dha, stupa, cymbal, drum, horn, and Botsho so on. On the lower level, visitors would come across a pool and a big The local people consider this lake to stream. be Lake Nub Tshona Patta. It is said that Terton Sherab Mebar, in order Rangtse Nye to build a Dzong at Paro, went there to uncover treasures of gold from the The other important Nye sacred to lake by taking along with him some Guru Rimpoche is Rangtse Nye. It monks. is two-day walk from Haa and four- day walk from Samtse side. It is also Upon reaching the lake, Treasure known as Sangbey Richenling. This Revealer manifested into a big frog Nye is located at the edge of Chego and drank lake’s entire water. Be- Village. fore undertaking the task the treas- ure revealer had agreed to give the fragments to the monks who cut the descendants of the Treasure Reveal- gold. er in Pangpaisa cross Tergola pass, it rains even though the weather is As instructed by the Treasure Re- fine. vealer, the monks started chopping the chunk of gold. However, they splintered off large fragments.

The Treasure Revealer was worried that the pillar may become too short if splintered in big fragments and asked the monks not to make large fragments. As he was saying this, a drop of water fell from his nose and swirled into a lake and all the monks and gold sank into it.

Following this, the angry female spirit of the lake chased the Treas- ure Revealer. It is said that when the Treasure Revealer manifested in the form of a bird, the spirit manifested in the form of a peregrine falcon hawk and chased the bird. When they arrived at Tergola, the Tsen (mountain spirit) of Tergola medi- ated between the female spirit and the Treasure Revealer. There it was agreed that the female spirit would not cross Tergola and Treasure Re- vealer and his descendants will not cross Tergola. Even today, when the 7 Haa Festivals Ap Chundu Soelkha betans and Haaps are from the same ancestral root. People of Tibet were

Ap Chundu Soelkha started in 15th known as Jumbo and people of Haa century. The Soelkha is held on 7th were known as Haap. In the olden day of the 9th month of the Bhuta- days there existed a system of free nese Calendar. movement of people and trade be- tween Tibetans and Haaps. A system The local elders say that Soelkha is existed that encouraged the people an offering to Ap Chundu by the peo- of Tibet to come to Haa for annual ple of Haa as a courtesy for his help offerings and vice versa. This system in fighting back the Tibetans. Local resulted into more and more Tibet- elders give a clear account of the ans moving and settling in Haa. Ti- battle that emerged between the Ti- betans became worried when more betans and Haaps. They recountthat and more people started settling people of Tibet and Haa were then in Haa. Tibetans thought that they called Joha and it is believed that Ti- might loose control over their people moving to Haa and they waged war to help them fight back the Tibetan against the people of Haa. army. He demanded that the people of Haa must offer him either of three The Tibetan army reached Haa and – Yak, Fish and Sheep. Ap Chundu camped at Jyenkakha, the present chose Yak and that is the reason why site where Ap Chundu Soelkha is a Yak is sacrificed during Chundu held. Soelkha. He also had demand for As the Tibetan army entered Haa, the three different types of water to be people of Haa were worried. Local el- offered. It was mandatory for the ders share that people of Haa had to people to meet these requirements, seek help from Ap Chundu, local de- if he has to help them fight back the ity of Haa. A Paw was performed to Tibetan army. Fortunately the peo- appease Ap Chundu to fight back the ple of Haa were able to meet all the Tibetan army. Through the Paw, Ap demands made by Ap Chundu. Chundu had certain demands to be met by the people of Haa, if he was Upon meeting all the demands of Ap Chundu, the next morning the in receiving Ap Chundu to battlefield people of Haa received Ap Chundu for fighting the Tibetans. Even to- from Lakhang Karpo accompanied day Paw is performed as traditional by soldiers equipped with weapons ceremony to predict all good things and proceeded to Jyenkakha to fight and bad things that would happen back Tibetans. It is believed that Ap in the coming year. Based on this Chundu on reaching the opposite prediction, the community take pre- site of the Tibetan army camp casted cautionary measures by performing his spell by making the whole area rimdros. towards the place where the Bhuta- nese soldiers were standing appear Yangthang as a flat ground to the Tibetan army. Bongku Actually there was a big cliff near the camp site of Tibeatans. As it ap- Local elders say that Bongku cel- peared flat ground to the Tibetans, ebration is linked to the war they they marched towards Bhutanese fought with the Tibetans. People say soldiers to attack them. It is believed that Yangthaaps (people of Yangth- that while marching to attack the ang) played a critical role in the Bhutanese soldiers all the Tibetan battle with Tibetans as soldiers or army fell off from the cliff and died. Pazaps. It is believed that Bongku It is also believed that the particular is sort of celebration for the victory area from where Ap Chundu casted over Tibetans. his spell is known to be called Gay- sa. But today the small community Yangthang Bongku is held once in is known as Gensa. Remains of Ti- every three years. For this particular betan army’s camp are still visible event, Paw and Neljorm are invited today. from Paro. The household identified as the host for the Paw & Neljorm Whole community of Haa partici- has to travel to Paro and receive pate in this offering and pray for them and also drop them back to wellbeing. On this day, same pro- Paro. Host is identified on rotational ceeding is done exactly how they did basis in very three years. The elders account that the Bongku ons would also accompany the Paw was in practice from the time of and Neljorm. Jigme Namgyel. Although there is no proper documentation to show how The day would be filled with cel- it began the event, it is believed that ebrations, such as dances, debate the Yangthaaps who played impor- between Paw & Neljorm, Khadar tant role in war with Tibetans might offering to Paw & Neljorm, etc. All have received order from high com- the people gathered there will of- mand then to start such an event. fer Nyendar and see what good and bad things the Paw & Neljorm would Bongku starts from the first day predict for the coming year. On this evening and continues for the next day the Paw & Neljorm will also pre- whole day. Paw and Neljorm will dict what good and bad things may meditate in the Neykhang from fall on the community in that year. evening and spend the night in the Based on the predictions, the com- Neykhang. Pazaps will also gather munity take precautionary measures from the first day’s evening itself. by performing rimdros. From that particular night onwards till the end of the event, the Pazaps Kibri Bongku, Dum- are not allowed to sleep together cho Bongku, Tshap- with their wives. The actual proceed- hel bongku, Kana ings of Bongku begin by the Pazaps bongku and Bali and Neljorm throwing away Lue Bongku (Ritual cake) in the designated place. However, the Paw would stay back Most of the communities in Haa in the Neykhang. celebrate Bongku. They celebrate Bongku once in every three years. Next day’s Bongku proceedings be- Different communities have slightly gin with preparation to throw away different ways of conducting - Bong another Lue. This time both Paw and ku. Neljorm will accompany the Lue. All the Pazaps equipped with the weap- Kibri Bongku, Dumchu Bongku, Tshaphel Bongku & Kana Bongku Paro and Ap Chundu – the local dei- are held on 11th day of 12th month of ty of Haa went to Tibet to channelize Bhutanese Calendar. However, Bali Tsho Tsho lake to their respective Bongku is celebrated on 5th day of area. It is believed that Tsho Tsho 1st month of Bhutanese Calendar. Lake guarantees bountiful harvest of paddy. Ap Chundu was the one Tsenka Wang to secure the water and channelize towards Haa. However, on the way Local elders relate that people of back, he felt asleep in drunken state. Paro celebrate this festival. They ac- Jowo Drakedpa took advantage of count that the name of the festival the situation and diverted the wa- was derived from the Wang trans- ter towards Paro. Ap Chundu had to mitted by the Truelku of Tsenka confront with Jowo. They came to Gonpa in Haa. The people of Talung an agreement that every year Paro’s who have migrated to Paro celebrate first paddy harvest would be offered this festival. Those people who have to Ap Chundu in Haa and not Jowo migrated to Paro come to Haa for Drakedpa. making offerings to the place where they belonged. Few communities Lomba from Paro celebrate Tsenka Wang and the community of Tsenka and Lomba is the Haaps’ traditional new Talung witnesses the event. It is held year. It falls on 29th day of the 10th on 15th day of 11th month of Bhuta- month of the Bhutanese calendar. nese calendar. On this day, people sing Lolay Lolay rhyme, which is the wish for a good The locals also have other story to New Year. Mostly the young boys go explain why people of Paro celebrate around the village homes with long Tsenka Wang in Haa. Locals account stick with basket hanging on one end that people of Paro come to Haa to singing Lolay Lolay until the owners offer first paddy harvest to Ap Chun- come out and place hontey in the du. basket. Jowo Drakedpa – the local deity of Lomba brings together all the family common birthday for the Haaps. members. On this occasion, the par- Every Haap consider themselves one ents expect their children to make a year older after lomba. point to celebrate together. Lomba could also be considered a food fes- Haa Summer tival for the Haaps. Haaps prepare Festival and eat signature food of Haa – Hon- The Haa summer festival is a lively celebration of the mix of traditional living-culture, nomadic lifestyles, unique Bhutanese cuisines, tradi- tional sports and religious perfor- mances.

It provides insight into the lives and traditions of Bhutan’s nomadic herd- tey. Hontey is momo-like buckwheat ers. This festival gives opportunity to dumplings stuffed with dried turnip, immerse oneself in all kind of expe- chilli, fermented cheese and butter. riences by playing the local sports, enjoying delicious home-cooked cui- Haaps clean every corner of their sines and enjoying traditional songs house, wash every piece of cloth and and dances. every member of the family take their turn for menchu (hot stone At the Haa Summer festival the bath). Lomba is also considered as tourists would be able to see the rare White Poppy (Meconopsis su- perba). This flower typically grows to 1-1.5m in height at an altitude of around 4000m. The White Poppy is endemic to Haa and cannot be found anywhere else in the country. Haa tshechu sa celebrates this event every year.

Haa Tsechu is an annual event for Lungkha Lhakhang Haa Dzongkhag. It is held on 8th, goencham 9th & 10th day of 8th month of the Bhutanese Calendar. The commu- Lungkha Lhakhang Gyencham is nity members and the local govern- held yearly on 29th day of 10th ment administration officials take month of the Bhutanese Calendar. part in the Tsechu. Lungkha community under Katsho Gewog participates in this event. Geto Jabjur Khando Soel It is held on 15th day of 11th month of Bhutanese Calendar. The commu- Held on the 5th day of 11th month of nity of Banginna under Eusu Gewog the Bhutanese Calander every year celebrates Geto Jabjur every year. in Trashigang Lhakhang, commu- nity of Trashigang under Sangbey Wangtsa Goencham Gewog celebrates this local festival.

Wangtsa Goencham is held on 1st day of 11th month of the Bhutanese Calendar. The community of Wangt-

Trekkings In 8 Haa Valley

Haa Valley Ancient chudrake (6850m) from Kalila pass. Route Trek As one descend towards Paro valley The Haa Valley ancient route trek from the pass, one will come across will take one through some of the ideal places for bird watching. most scenic views of Haa and Paro Sagala Trek valleys. A fairly easy trek, the trek- ing on ancient route starts from Kat- Sagala Trek is yet another exciting sho village in Haa and takes through hike-route that connects Paro and to Paro. Haa valley. The 3-day Sagala trek starts from Yangthang/Talung in This trek would provide memorable Haa with a fairly moderate trail hik- experience of walking up the trail at ing. One could choose to exit either some point of time and gradually de- from Chelela Pass or Drukgyel in scending as one enters Paro valley. Paro. As the trek progresses, one would be passingthrough blue pine forest Sagala trek trail ascends and de- that would lead to thick spruce and scends through beautiful meadows, conifer forest. One will get chance to ridges, blue pine forests, coniferous see rich flora and fauna during the and fir forests. One would be taken gradual walk through these forests. through rhododendron scrubs and blanket of beautiful flowers. De- Getting on to Kalila pass (3770 me- pending on which exit point one tre above the sea level) would be yet chooses, one would pass through another memorable exploration in exciting camp sites such as Khadey this trekking. Kalila pass is covered Gom (3235m), Dongney Tsho in blanket of highland flowers. One (3200m), Sagala (3720m) and Nyin- can get gorgeous views of Haa and gungla (3874m). Paro valley from the pass. On a clear weather, one can also see the view of On reaching Sagala pass, on a clear Mt. Jomolhari (7315m) and Mt. Ji- day, one could see spectacular view of Mt. Jhomolhari (7315m), Draki- climbling to Tsokam (3536), the gang (6040m), Jichudrake (6850m) place where one would camp for the and Tshering Gang (7100m). One day. As one treks to Wangjithang could also see Drukgyel Dzong and (3688m), one would have to cross Taktshang monastery from the pass. passes such as Chuzo La (3900m) Peaks of Haa and border with Tibet and Tsabja La (4107m). On this par- can also be seen from the pass. Sa- ticular trek route, one would also gala is also an ideal place for bird pass through a huge meadow called watching. Yulo. Wangjithang is a huge pasture land area where one will take a night There are chances to spot Himala- halt for the day. yan Monal, Blood Pheasant, Musk Deer along the trail. One would have to continue cross- ing rest of the passes to reach Nub Nub Tshona Patta Tshona Patta Tsho(4076m). Trek Tsho Trek from Wangjithang to Nub Tshona Patta would entail crossing more huge pasturelands and witness as- Nub Tshona Patta Trek is a seven- cends and descends through to the day exhaustive trekking. This trek passes. On this route one would entials three days hike towards Nub pass through Gongche La(4231m), Tshona Patta Tsho (Lake) followed Chhosho Lumpa(3871) and Tshe- by a three day return journey that jey La(4237m). On reaching Tshe- ends at Lukha village. This trek goes jey La, one can see the views of Mt. very close to India, China and Bhu- Kanchenjunga(8586m), the third tan borders. For this trek, there are highest mountain in the world on 7 passes to be crossed with altitude the border of Sikkim and Nepal, ranging from 3900m to 4256m. Mt. Gangkar Punsum(7541m), Ji- chu Drake(6850m) and Mt. Chundu The trek starts from Kajena village Gang.The trek offers beautiful view (2750m) passing Janadhingkha of the world’s third highest peak, Mt. Lhakhang (3230m) and continues Kanchenjunga. After a day rest exploring in Nub Thsona Patta, the next three days return journey would entail passing rest of the passes. On the return trek to Haa, one would cross Kacheydo La (4158m), Bjara La (4256m) and Tsabjo La (4115m).

Besides enjoying the views of some of the popular mountains and passes, one would also get opportunities to see the natural flora and fauna. One may also spot blue sheep, marmots and many other species of birds. HAA 9 Day Hikes

Yangthang – Hatey One could walk till Gaychu Lakhang, Day Hike visit it and walk back to Yangthang or could drive from Gaychu Lakhang This day hike starts from Yangth- back to Haa Town. This particular ang village. One could drive from trail is still used by the locals. Haa Town till Yangthang, which will be approximately 15 to 20 minutes Bjungneydra – Kat- drive. Yangthang – Hatey day hike sho Gonpa day hike would provide a rich experience walking along the riverbank of calm Bjungneydra - Katsho Gonpahike Haa Chhu. could start from Bali Lhakhang to Bjungneydra/Katsho Gonpa. It may The hiking trail is one of the famous take around 3 hours. It is an easy trade routes used by the people of climb through Katsho village with Haa in the olden days. Probably, this beautiful traditional houses and very route was the route used by the ruins. One can visit Bali Lhakhang, people of Tibet when there existed which is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche a system of Tibetans coming to Haa and also privately owned Lungkha for annual offerings and vice versa. Lhakhang. This day hike would This hike provides opportunity for take the visitirs into pine forest with the visitors to virtually walk on the beautiful flowers while ascending to footsteps of Jawaharlal Nehru, the Bjungneydra and Katsho Gonpa. first Prime Minister of India. When Nehru was the Prime Minister of One can either climb up to visit Kat- India, he came to Bhutan on foot sho Gonpa and then visit Junidrak crossing Tibet. He came to Haa Val- Nye and walk down or climb up ley and met with local officials before to Junidrak and then visit Katsho continuing to Paro and Thimphu. Gonpa. On the way, one can see semi This day hike will be a walk along the permanent cowsheds, traditional river, on the same historical route cow milking, churning milk to pro- that he followed. duce butter and cheese balls. One Jyenkhakha – Jamtey can have picnic-lunch in the mead- Gonpa – Yangthang ow above Kadam Chorten. Then the Gonpa Day Hike trail will lead to Bjungneydra.

One can drive from Haa town till Bjungneydra is dedicated to Guru Yangthang and start walking from Rinpoche and houses the right foot- there to Jyenkhakha or drive directly print of Machig Lhabdron (1055- to Jyenkhakha and start hiking from 1132), a female Tibetan Tantric prac- there. From Yangthang Zam it will titioner. It is believed that her left be roughly around ten minutes walk footprint is at Pelphug/Paro Tak- to Jyenkhakha. sang. Built on a cliff at 2950 m, it serves as a sacred pilgrim spot. Jyenkhakha is an open ground near the farm road, one km away from While walking to Katsho Gonpa Yangthang village. In this open (3070m), one has to climb up above ground Ap Chundu Soelkha is cel- the rocky cliff of Bjungneydra Nye. ebrated every year. Jyenkhakha is However, an alternative route above good place for nature walk, picnick- the cliff is much easier. ing, biking, etc. One can have a calm walk around and can also see the Katsho Gonpa is connected with 3 remains of the camp built by the Ti- km farm road from Haa town. All betan army. the traditional rituals for the Katsho Gewog are done in this Gonpa. It is From Jyenkhakha one can hike to dedicated to Guru Rinpoche and is Yangthang Gonpa, which would be considered to be sacred. While in around half an hour walk through Bjungneydra and Katsho Gonpa, one pine forest and beautiful wild flow- can get good photo view of the Haa ers. Further, one can also undertake valley. biking tours to the Gonpa. From the Gonpa, one can get a good photogra- phy view of Haa valley. One can also walk along the farm road to Yangth- Gonpa is located on top of the hill ang Gonpa and also take village tour with good view of Haa valley. The passing through the pine forest. visitors would enjoy walking around the place and taking photographs. From Yangthang Gonpa one can After having lunch at Takchu Gonpa proceed towards Jamtey Gonpa. The one can start walking down back to Gonpa was home to 13th Je Sherub the road point. Gyeltshen. One can also drive straight to Takchu During this day-hike, one can also Gonpa and then hike downhill pass- visit Tshenka Goenpa, a privately ing Shelkardra and adjoining vil- owned Lhakhang located above Ta- lages such as Bangena and Dumchu. lung village. Choeje Ngawang Gyelt- As the last leg of the hike,one can shen constructed Tshenka Goenpa visit Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang about 800 years ago. Nagpo and drive back to hotel or make refreshing round of Haa Town. Bangena – Shelk- ardra- Tagchu Goem- pa Day trek/Takchu Gompa – Dumchu

After driving from Haa town/hotel to Bangena, one could start walk- ing uphill towards Shelkardra. One would enjoy walking through pine forest and variety of flowers, taking photographs and viewing the villag- es downhill.

Following the visit to Shelkardra, one has to walk further uphill to- wards Takchu Gonpa. Takchu Wangtsa – Katsho is a blessing water source. Gonpa Day Hike From Karma Shasa one could start To undertake this hike one can walking towards Katsho Gonpa. One drive from Haa Town/hotel through could use the olden days footpath to feeder road towards Wangtsa Vil- hike towards Katsho Gonpa. Katsho lage. At Wangtsa, visitors can spend Gonpa is a very sacred temple, which some time walking around beautiful was founded by Lama Choying Gyat- village and witnessing traditional sho, the disciple of Drakpa Gyatsho farming practices and beautiful tra- who, in turn, was the disciple of ditional houses. One could also in- Tsang Khenchen. teract with the villagers there and get opportunity to see the ancestral Day Excursion to home of the first Bhutanese teacher Drana Trashidhing- from Haa. After spending a while kha Gonpa going around Wangtsa village, one could start walking towards sacred Drana Trashidingkha Gonpa day place called Karma Shasa. excursion starts from Haa Kajena. It will be around two and half hours At Karma Shasa one can see the syl- hike to Drana Trashidingkha Gonpa lables “Hung” and “Ah” inscribed (3265m) through pine forests and on a natural rock, as well as an in- beautiful wild flowers. Chogley Sacha scription in Dakini’s code script on a Tenzin, the founder of Sangchokhar rock slab, together with the naturally monastery in Paro, built this Gonpa. formed stone lock and stone key. As one proceeds further up, piles of rock From the monastery, view of the Haa in the shape of the Kangyur volumes, valley is spectacular. the translated Buddha-word can be seen. After passing the stupa, a body imprint of Guru Rinpoche can also be seen on the cliff. Below this, there 10 Cycling Tours

Chelela- Haa Cycling processing butter, cheese ball and Tour hard cheese (chugo). One can enjoy picnic-lunch in the meadow above From Chelela pass, on a clear day, the highway while returning from one can have wonderful view of Mt. Damthang. Jomolhari and Mt. Jichu Drake and picturesque Haa and Paro valleys. At Chelela, one can have nature Haa-Chunzom Cycling trek to see Blue poppy, Rhododen- Tour dron, Adle weiss (Austrian National Flower) and many other beautiful One could aslo undertake cycling flowers. One may also come across tour along the Haa - Chunzom Himalayan Monal and Blood pheas- highway. During the tour one can ant. From Chelela pass, 26 km road stop on the way for village tours to meanders down to Haa where one see traditional houses with Bhu- can enjoy about two hours bicycling tanese architecture. One can also down to Haa valley. view Dogar Dobji Dzong, which is believed to be first model Dzong in Bhutan. Ngawang Chhogyal built the Haa-Damthang Dzong in 1531 AD. A sacred Terma Cycling Tour (the statue of Guru Langdarchen) is housed in the top floor of the Dzong. This statue is believed to have spo- One can enjoy cycling from Haa to ken when the Tibetan King Langdar- Damthang and back to Haa (30km). ma tried to destroy it by smashing Along with the cycling, one could al- the left ear with a hammer. somake village tours and even visit Gyechukha Lhakhang, the birth- Dobji Dzong used to be the head- place of Ap Chundu. At Damthang, quarter of Dobji Penlop. Later there are yak herders’ camps where the post of Penlop was abolished tourists could visit and even camp throughout the country and this ren- there to experience nomadic lifestyle dered Dogar Dobji Dzong useless. In and see milking, churning milk, and 1976, the Dzong was renovated into a jail with additional structures con- structed to house the prisoners. One can visit the Dzong and can have pic- nic there.

Cycling around Meri Puensum

Amongst the cycling tours, the one that goes around the three sig- nificant mountains would be one of the memorable adventures while in Haa. There is already a system of lo- cal people circumambulating these three magnificent mountains as a pilgrimage for various religious be- liefs. Other Entertainment 11 Activities

Fishing at Haa Chu

Haa Chu is popular for trout fishes. Visitors could spend probably a day or half guidedfishing at the desig- nated areas along the Haa Chu. Photography at Birds’ Eye View (View of Haa Valley at one shot)

Overlooking Haa Valley is the ridge which is a strategic site for photog- raphy. It is on the opposite side of Haa Chuu overlooking Haa Valley. The entire view of Haa valley could be taken in a shot or two. For the clearer view one could take photos from two photo-taking sites.

Photography tour could also be combined with day excursion.There are different routes one can get to the photo-taking site. One could drive a few kilometres on the Haa- Chelela-Paro highway and hike to- wards the site. Other possible option could be cycling on the highway and the footpath leading to photography site and Wangtsa village. Entering from Wangtsa village and exiting at the highway is another route option one could take. Glimpse of education lection of all the education artefacts in Sherig Mu- artefacts collected from across seum the country.

Haa is the birthplace of modern education in Bhu- tan. Bhutan’s first school was opened in Haa in 1914 with teachers from Church of Scotland mission. Today, Haa Dzongkhag houses Sherig (Education) Museum that was opened recently to commem- orate 100 years of education in Bhutan.

Sherig museum has the col- lection of education artefacts used before 1950. Some of the rare education artefacts include a copy of a certificate awarded to teacher called Lopen Dago, who served since the first King’s time, hurricane lanterns, slates, books and photographs of 1958 batch Haa student with Pandit Jawaharlal Neru, the first Prime Minister of India. This museum houses col- References

Jordans, B. (2008). Bhutan: a trekker’s guide. Cicerone press.

Tshewang, P. (2001). History of Has (Ha) val- ley. Journal of Bhutan Studies, volume 5, 50-56. Thimphu: Centre of Bhutan Studies.

Wangdi, P. (2008). Seeds of faith: a comprehen- sive Guide to the sacred places of Bhutan. Volume 1. Thimphu: KMT Publishers.

Personal interviews.