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Central Peru Custom Tour 2013

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Central Peru Custom Tour 2013 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Central(Peru(Custom(Tour(2013( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( November(8(–(27,(2013( Guided(by(Andrew(Spencer( All#photos#in#this#report#taken#on#the#tour#by#Andrew#Spencer#and#Scott#Watson# Peru!is!easily!one!of!the!world’s!most!visited!tropical!birding!destinations.!!And!for!good! reason!–!sky=high!diversity,!combined!with!good!infrastructure,!excellent!habitat,!and!a! good!dose!of!local!culture!make!this!a!must=hit!location!for!any!world!traveler.!!!But!if!you! look!at!the!majority!of!birding!tours!to!Peru!most!of!them!visit!the!southern!part!of!the! country.!!A!few!visit!the!more!remote!north.!!But!very,!very!few!ever!venture!into!the! mountainous!center!of!this!large!country.!!And!that!is!a!real!shame!–!central!Peru!has!some! of!the!best!birding,!the!highest!endemism,!and!some!of!the!best!scenery!available.!!While! the!tourist!infrastructure!still!isn’t!up!to!snuff!compared!to!the!more!traveled!south,!it!has! improved!with!leaps!and!bounds!over!even!a!few!years!ago,!and!running!a!birding!tour! here!has!never!been!easier.( ! This!was!Tropical!Birding’s!first!tour!to!most!of!Central!Peru.!!It!was!arranged!as!a!custom! tour!for!five!of!the!participants!on!the!2011!Chile!Tour,!and!targeted!a!mix!of!Peruvian! endemics!with!a!route!maximizing!species!diversity.!!And!we!were!wildly!successful!on! both!fronts!!!Weather!mostly!held!in!our!favor,!with!a!few!rainy!days!hindering!us!a!bit!but! in!the!end!not!costing!a!whole!lot!of!species.!!Most!of!the!targeted!endemics!cooperated! well,!and!some!surprises!here!and!there!added!some!spice!to!the!tour.! ! Santa(Eulalia(Valley( ! With!no!flight!delays,!everyone!was!in!Lima!on!time,!so!an!early!morning!departure!has!us! ascending!into!the!mountains!for!our!first!day!of!birding.!!On!tap!was!the!dry!Santa!Eulalia! Valley,!located!right!outside!of!Lima!and!offering!a!good!transect!of!arid!habitats!at! different!elevations.! ! Stops!low!in!the!valley!early!in!the!morning!proved!Quite!birdy,!and!we!Quickly!picked!up! species!like!dapper!Collared(WarblingGFinch,(Croaking(GroundGDove,(the!omnipresent! Scrub(Blackbird,( BlueGandGyellow( Tanager,(and!lots!of! LongGtailed( Mockingbirds.!! There!were!lots!of! roadside!flowering! shrubs,!and!some! scanning!of!these! produced!Oasis( Hummingbird,!a! young!male! Peruvian(Sheartail,! and!some!PurpleG collared( Woodstars.! ! Continuing!higher,! we!soon!ascended! into!the!stark,!rocky!canyon!with!only!a!scattering!of!vegetation!but!an!abundance!of! amazing!scenery.!!Graceful!Andean(Swifts!darted!along!the!canyon!walls,!while!BandG tailed(Seedeaters!inhabited!practically!every!bush!along!the!road.!!At!a!bridge!over!one!of! the!narrowest!and!deepest!slot!canyons!I’ve!seen!on!the!continent!we!found!one!of!our! main!targets!for!the!morning,!a!pair!of!Great(IncaGFinches.!!Part!of!the!Peru’s!flagship! genus,!Inca=Finches!are!endemic!to!the!country!and!always!feature!prominently!on!a!hit=list! visiting!central!and!northern!Peru.!!The!pair!we!found!was!fantastically!cooperative,!often! perching!within!a!few!feet!of!us!in!the!roadside!scrub.! ! We!had!barely!gotten!over!our!Inca=Finch!high!before!fortune!struck!again,!this!time!in!the! form!of!a!vocal!and!responsive!PiedGcrested(TitGtyrant.!!Don’t!let!the!fact!that!it’s!a! flycatcher!fool!you!–!this! is!one!fine!looking!bird!!! The!arid!scrub!continued! to!be!good!to!us!when! two!more!sought=after! endemics!put!in!an! appearance!in!the!form!of! a!nice!male!BronzeG tailed(Comet!followed!by! a!pair!of!the!more! subdued!RustyGbellied( BrushGFinches.!!A!trio!of! BlackGthroated( Woodpeckers(rounded! out!our!endemics!for!the! morning!and!we!decided! to!book!it!up!to!the!higher! elevations!of!the!valley! for!a!bit!of!a!different! flavor!for!the!afternoon.! ! The!way!up!the!valley!proved!to!be!slow!going,!but!not!entirely!birdless.!Some!WhiteG winged(Cinclodes!were!found!along!the!river,!joined!higher!up!by!a!few!CreamGwinged( Cinclodes!and!a!plethora!of!sierra=finches!including!BandGtailed,(Mourning,(Peruvian,( AshGbreasted,!and!higher!up!still,!Plumbeous.!!Our!first!try!for!White=cheeked!Cotinga! turned!up!empty,!but!an!exceptionally!cooperative!Giant(Hummingbird!made!up!for!the! miss.! ! Having!missed!the!cotinga!the!day!before,!the!first!order!of!business!was!returning!to!the! high=elevation!Polylepis!grove!to!try!again.!!This!time!our!luck!was!better,!and!after!some! serious!huffing!and!puffing!as!we!scrambled!up!the!steep!slope!we!were!looking!at!a!distant! WhiteGcheeked(Cotinga!perched!on!top!of!a!Polylepis!tree!!!A!couple!of!Giant(Conebills! were!nuthatching!along!some!branches!nearby,!while!a!RufousGwebbed(BushGTyrant(sat! watching,!giving!us!some!nice!bonus!birds!for!all!the!effort.! ! Milloc(Bog( ( Usually!birders!come!to!this!dizzyingly!thin=aired!bog!for!two!birds.!!But!since!all!of!the! group!had!previously!birded!with!me!in!Chile!we!didn’t!spend!much!effort!looking!for! Diademed!Sandpiper=Plover,!and!instead!concentrated!on!one!of!the!rarest!birds!on!the! planet!–!WhiteGbellied(Cinclodes.!!This!very!restricted!Peruvian!endemic!is!found!only!on! a!few!high=elevation!Bofedal!bogs!in!central!Peru,!and!is!severely!threatened!by!habitat! destruction.!!Luckily!we!found!a!pair!of!birds!almost!as!soon!as!we!pulled!up!to!the!bog,!and! got!to!watch!them!as!they!foraged!near!the!road.! ! Our!other!main!target!at!the!bog!was!one!of!the!weirdest!of!all!hummingbirds,!Olivaceous! Thornbill.!!This!species!occurs!higher!than!almost!any!other!hummingbird,!and!is!known! for!walking!on!the!ground!searching!for!tiny!flowers!on!the!puna.!!Unfortunately!our!luck! didn’t!hold!and!despite!some!significant!searching!no!hummingbirds!were!turned!up.!!Even! so!we!managed!to!find!a!number!of!other!new!species!for!the!trip,!including!a!slew!of! Ground=Tyrants!(with!Cinereous,(Taczanowski’s,(WhiteGfronted,(and!Puna!all!being! seen),!as!well!as!numerous!WhiteGwinged(DiucaGFinches!and!Andean(Geese!among!the! more!common!species.!!! ! Working!our!way!back!down!to!the!highway!we!stopped!at!some!likely!looking!bunch!grass! covered!slopes,!and!soon!had!the!endemic!Junin(Canastero!perched!up!yelling!back!at!us.!! Another!stop!just!downhill!provided!a!StreakGthroated(Canastero,!rounding!out!our! basket=maker!haul!for!the!morning.! ! Satipo(Road( ( South!America!is!filled!with!legendary!birding!locations!–!The!Manu!Road,!The!Escalera,! The!Pantanal,!and!on!and!on.!!But!one!location!that!easily!holds!its!own!among!the!top! echelon!of!birding!locations,!yet!receives!almost!no!recognition,!is!the!Satipo!Road.!!! Nowhere!else!in!South!America!can!you!see!so!many!undescribed!species!so!easily,!and!few! indeed!are!the!locations!where!you!can!find!so!many!localized!and!hard!to!find!endemics.!! Combine!all!that!with!beautiful!temperate!and!cloud=forest!habitat,!superb!flocks,!and! stunning!scenery,!and!you!have!all!of!what!makes!Peru!one!of!the!best!countries!on!the! planet,!in!spades.! ! Even!though!the!habitats!on!the!Satipo!Road!vary!from!high,!dry!puna!to!lowland!forest,!we! spent!most!of!our!time!in!the!temperate!and!cloud!forest!zones.!!Before!we!made!it!to!those! elevations!a!Quick!stop!at!a!large!roadside!lake!in!the!puna!gave!us!a!few!common!duck! species,!and!some!stunning!views!of!ShortGtailed(Pipits!serenading!us!with!their!beautiful! songs!and!flight!displays.! ! Another!roadside!stop!in! an!area!of!temperate! scrub!had!us!ogling!our! first!localized!endemics,! in!the!form!of!FireG throated(Metaltail!and! the!still!undescribed! “Millpo”(Tapaculo,!both! found!only!in!a!tiny!area! of!central!Peru.!!A! gorgeous!male!PurpleG backed(Thornbill!was! also!popular,!though!a! number!of!female!birds! were!more!cooperative.! ! Our!first!serious!birding! stop!came!at!the!famed! Carrizales!bridge,!located! in!the!upper!temperate! zone!not!far!below! treeline.!!Here!bad!weather!finally!caught!up!with!us,!but!between!bouts!of!rain!we!walked! our!way!down!the!road,!poring!through!the!mixed=species!flocks!and!calling!out!skulkers.!! Among!the!highlights!were!some!excellent!views!of!obscura(Rufous(Antpitta!(a!for!sure! future!split),!the!ever!impressive!GoldenGcollared(Tanager,!some!unbeatable!views!of! Tshudi’s(Tapaculo,!and!! ! A!good!deal!of!our!time!along!the!Satipo!Road!was!spent!along!the!side!road!that!starts!in! the!town!of!Apalla!and!goes!over!into!the!Mantaro!River!Valley.!!This!was!for!various! reasons,!but!foremost!among!them!as!that!it!is!along!this!road!that!most!of!the!specialties! (an!most!especially!the!undescribed!species)!can!be!found,!and!the!town!of!Apalla!also!has! the!only!convenient!lodging.!!Now!to!call!it!lodging!might!be!a!bit!of!a!stretch,!and!it’s!the! only!place!I’ve!been!on!tour!where!everyone!was!sharing!the!same!room,!but!it!worked!!! And!it!was!better!than!camping!by!a!long!shot,!to!say!the!least!! ! We!spent!and!afternoon!and!the!better!part!of!a!morning!along!the!road!above!Apalla,! which!passes!through!excellent!cloud!forest!of!increasing!elevation!before!crossing!a!high! pass!over!puna!grassland!and!descending!into!the!drier!Mantaro!River!valley.!!Good!birds! came!fast!and!furious!along!the!road,!with!specialties!from!the!newly!described!Junin( Tapaculo!to!the!yet!to!be!described!“Satipo(Road”(Chestnut(Antpitta!to!the!little!known! and!rarely!seen!weskei,Marcapata(Spinetail!!!A!closely!calling!Bay(Antpitta!remained! elusive,!unfortunately,!but!some!loud!and!inQuisitive!Unstreaked(TitGTyrants!were!much! more!cooperative.!!Several!GrayGbreasted(MountainGToucans!were!Quite!popular!with! the!group!as!well.! ! Flocks!in!the!area!were!dominated!by!several!species!of!tanager,!including!ScarletGbellied( MountainGTanager!
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