HAL WWD STYLE LAS VEGAS HAL RUBENSTEIN IS BRANDS TO WATCH ADDING ANOTHER AND THE VENDOR ARROW TO HIS QUIVER: FASHION DESIGNER. AND RETAIL OUTLOOK. PAGE 6 SECTION II

SITE LAUNCHES FOOTWEAR Nasty Gal’s Trajectory: From E-tailer to Brand

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

NEW YORK — Nasty Gal is growing up. The company will today launch its own line of footwear, Shoe Cult, and is also eyeing intimates WWD and swimwear for next year. The e-commerce pure- play is even beginning to contemplate real-world retail outposts. MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 “Exclusivity is important for me,” said Sophia Amoruso, the 29-year-old cofounder, chief executive officer and creative director of Nasty Gal. “Our con- sumer knows it’s the only place they can get this. The modern girl is less concerned with everything being a brand name. The stuff we’re designing has better sell-through [than third-party designers], but we will always continue to carry other designers. This is just the sprinkling on top.” If Nasty Gal continues to thrive and executes on its ambitious plans, the five-year-old company could become one of the first online pure-plays to transcend its roots and become a fully developed fashion brand for a new age. It’s unclear exactly how big the firm has grown. Some industry sources estimate revenues this year will reach $115 million, while others have the compa- ny’s top line headed to more than $300 million. Nasty Gal received a $9 million Series A round of funding in March 2012, followed by a $40 million Series B just five months later. The site’s growth has been explo- sive, with 2010 revenues of $6.5 million more than quadrupling to $28 million in 2011. Half a million shoppers from 50 countries visit nastygal.com on a monthly basis, and more than 30 percent of the site’s sales come from outside the U.S. The company launched first mobile app last week and is working to keep up with its growth with a new headquarters in Los Angeles, which is expected to be completed in the fall. Nasty Gal launched its in-house label on Aug. 1, 2012, with a denim collection, followed by the rollout SEE PAGE 12 Swarovski Targets Fine-Jewelry Sector

By JOELLE DIDERICH Monique Péan’s 18-karat recycled rose gold, black tourmaline, fossilized SWAROVSKI WANTS to be number one. dinosaur bone and diamond The family-owned manufacturer of crystal and necklace; Jorge Adeler’s crystal-related products is on the acquisition trail, as 14-karat rose gold, druzy it bids to topple Cartier and Tiffany & Co. to become onyx and diamond ring, the global leader in the fine jewelry segment. and Irene Neuwirth’s 18- “We are number one in the fashion jewelry seg- karat rose gold, black onyx, ment definitely, but we want to strengthen our posi- labradorite, boulder opal, tion further by reaching out a little bit beyond what lightning ridge black opal we’re doing now, by extending our price position- and diamond necklace. ing upwards by means of internally developing new concepts and brands to a certain extent, and making acquisitions that make sense,” Robert Buchbauer, a member of the Swarovski executive board, told WWD while outlining the company’s global strategy for the next seven years, dubbed “Vision 2020.” Swarovski hopes to turn into a multibrand group Black Stone Investment by buying three or four jewelry brands. “We have a very strict and limiting list of criteria LBDs exist in the world of fine that we want to apply to any kind of company to be acquired, some of which being the profitability, the jewelry, too, where D stands for growth rate, the minimum size, the brand recognition diamond...plus onyx, jet, black and awareness and the possibility to develop it on a tourmaline and more. These dark large scale,” Buchbauer said. The group signaled its grand ambitions at the jewels, worked into statement pieces, last Baselworld watch and jewelry fair, where it un- have an air of drama and mystery. veiled a booth by award-winning designer Tokujin Yoshioka, who also created its flagship in the Ginza For more, see pages 4 and 5. district of Tokyo. Spanning more than 21,500 square feet, the stand was surrounded by a 10-foot-high, curved wall adorned with 253,231 mirrored reflectors PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

DELVALLE HAILEY SHELLHAMMER AND CASSAUNDRA ASSISTANTS: FASHION SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 WWD.COM Ackman, JCP Ink Stock Sale Plan THE BRIEFING BOX Penney’s board seat a week ago, each request must be for at least 5 IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG has a 17.7 percent stake in the re- million shares. The agreement no tailer, or 39 million shares. Vornado longer applies should he own less WILLIAM ACKMAN of Pershing holds 6.1 percent of Penney’s, or than 5 percent of Penney’s stock. Square Capital Management is 13.4 million shares. Vornado sold Certain blackout periods keeping his options open, but a block of 10 million of Penney’s begin on Nov. 20, when Penney’s J.C. Penney Co. Inc. remains in shares in March after the retailer’s has the right to postpone grant- the driver’s seat. posted full-year results under the ing a registration to Ackman or The two entered into a regis- tenure of former chief executive require him to refrain from dis- tration rights agreement on Aug. officer Ron Johnson that left the posing of shares for a period of DUNCAN

13 setting forth the procedures company with a $1 billion loss and no more than 90 days. & for if and when Ackman elects a 25 percent decline in sales. At Finally, should Penney’s elect TODD to sell his shares in the com- the time, Vornado said it sustained to register any of its stock, the A fall look from OF pany. That agreement was made a $225 million loss on its sale of company agreed to give notice to Todd & Duncan. public on Friday in a regulatory Penney’s shares. Ackman that would allow him the For more, see filing with the Securities and Vornado’s chairman Steve Roth option to offer his shares as well. WWD.com. COURTESY Exchange Commission. is also a Penney’s board member. That registration by Penney’s

would likely give other registra- PHOTO tion rights holders the option of William Ackman selling their stakes at the same time as well, said Joel I. Frank, Nasty Gal today will launch its own line of footwear and is an attorney in the corporate also eyeing intimates and swimwear for next year. Page 1 practice at Wilk Auslander. ·· Frank said Penney’s and Swarovski is on the acquisition trail, as it attempts to Ackman used a standard registra- become the global leader in the fine jewelry segment. Page 1 tion rights agreement. He empha- sized, “There’s no guarantee that Hal Rubenstein next month will unveil a namesake there would be a sale of shares apparel and footwear collection for HSN. Page 6 of the stock. This agreement pro- vides the potential seller greater Superdry hosted a dinner Thursday night at the Chateau flexibility than other [stock sell- Marmont in West Hollywood to fete a fall collection that ing rules] that have limitations, takes the brand in a mature direction. Page 8 such as volume amount.” Frank also addressed the spec- CASSESE/REUTERS/CORBIS Ziyi Zhang discusses the upcoming film “Martin Scorsese ulative issue of whether Roth, if Presents ‘The Grandmaster.’” Page 9 MIKE he sells his stake, might leave the

BY Penney’s board. The attorney said For some editors at Condé Nast, Klara Glowczewska’s exit

PHOTO that would depend on whether at Conde Nast Traveler cast Anna Wintour’s new outsize Penney’s has a requirement that influence in sharp relief. Page 9 board members own shares of the retailer. Some companies have This agreement provides the potential that requirement as a way of show- Rosalía Mera, who founded and built Inditex with her ing that “board members have former husband Amancio Ortega, has died. Page 12 seller greater flexibility than other [stock faith in the company,” Frank said. Restricted stock can’t be sold ON WWD.COM selling rules] that have limitations. without a registration with the SEC. According to Noah J. MARKETS: Scottish cashmere mill Todd & Duncan is aiming — JOEL I. FRANK, WILK AUSLANDER Leichtling, an attorney in the cor- to leverage its renown in fibers to become a branded ready- porate practice at Katten Muchin to-wear maker. For more, see WWD.com. Rosenman, “These arrangements In a registration request, It couldn’t be determined if are done to effect orderly market TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS those shares would then be regis- Roth would consider giving up his transactions. They are also done [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. tered as a secondary public offer- board seat at Penney’s if he elect- in compliance with SEC regula- COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing. Ackman can request his first ed to sell his stake in the retailer. tions for stock of this nature.” VOLUME 206, NO. 35. MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional registration beginning on Nov. 20. When Ackman resigned from Ten days ago, Ackman and issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Citi’s broadlines analyst Penney’s board on Aug. 12, the Penney’s board were involved Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Deborah Weinswig said Friday that company said it added as a di- in a directors’ conflict in which Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid the question of whether Ackman rector Ronald Tysoe, former Ackman sought the ouster at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to will or won’t sell could serve as vice chairman of Federated of board chairman Thomas P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR an “overhang” on Penney’s stock. Department Stores Inc. (now Engibous and the acceleration of DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, Shares of Penney’s fell 3.1 percent Macy’s Inc.). The retailer said it a ceo search to replace current ceo OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800- 289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. on Friday to close at $13.40. plans to add another director in Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd. Ackman For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, Weinswig also said that due course. added fuel to the fire when he option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine Vornado Realty Trust has “stated Under the terms·· of the regis- made public letters he sent to the becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on that it is looking to liquidate its tration rights agreement, Ackman board outlining his dissatisfaction all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. position” in Penney’s as well. can make no more than four re- with the pace of change. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Executives at both Pershing quests to Penney’s to register the Ackman lost that fight when of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. and Vornado did not return a re- sale of his restricted common Penney’s board decided they are com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services quest for comment. stock. He is limited to two re- in full support of the efforts of that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE Ackman, who resigned his quests per 12-month period, and both Engibous and Ullman. FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Rep. Levin to Tour Bangladesh Factories SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

last November that killed 112 gar- A group of 17 North Ameri- APPAREL & RETAIL By KRISTI ELLIS ment workers and the Rana Plaza can retailers and brands, in- building collapse in April that has cluding Wal-Mart Stores Inc., CEO SUMMIT WASHINGTON — Rep. Sander claimed the lives of 1,129 people Gap Inc., VF Corp. and Target Levin (D., Mich.) said Friday he and injured hundreds of others. Corp., unveiled their own Ban- OCT 28-29 NEW YORK CIT Y will travel to Bangladesh this Levin has joined several gladesh fire and building safety week for a three-day visit to as- House Democratic leaders over plan in early July. sess efforts on the ground to im- the past several months in pres- The U.S. suspended Ban- prove fire and building safety suring the Bangladesh govern- gladesh’s trade benefits under standards in the South Asian ment to commit to a comprehen- the Generalized System of nation’s garment industry in the sive, coordinated and concrete Preferences on June 27, on the wake of two apparel factory trag- plan to ensure worker safety grounds that the Bangladesh edies that claimed the lives of and improve workers’ rights in government made “insufficient more than 1,200 people. Bangladesh. He has also pressed progress” in ensuring Bangla- Levin will arrive in Dhaka on U.S. brands and retailers to com- deshi workers internationally Monday and visit several apparel mit to the binding, five-year glob- recognized worker rights. In VICTOR LUIS NICK ROBERTSON factories and meet with garment al Accord on Fire and Building mid-July the Obama administra- COACH INC. ASOS workers, business leaders and Safety in Bangladesh, led by tion provided Bangladesh with high-ranking government offi- IndustriALL Global Union and an action plan that it said could cials through Wednesday. His trip 80 mainly European brands and provide a basis for the Presi- wwd.com/apparel 212.630.4212 comes in the wake of a global out- retailers. Three U.S. companies dent to consider the reinstate- cry over the Tazreen Fashions fire have signed that accord. ment of GSP trade benefits.

4 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 Shining Night Jewelers are showing their dark sides, using a range of black stones — onyx, spinel, diamonds and sapphires — to create a refined sense of drama and intrigue.

Slane’s sterling silver, black onyx and diamond pendant.

Pamela Love’s brass and black onyx necklace.

David Yurman’s sterling silver and black onyx earrings. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON Sethi Couture’s black rhodium-plated 18-karat white gold, white gold, black Dior’s 18-karat yellow gold, diamond, yellow sapphire and black onyx ring. diamond and white diamond ring. Mateo Bijoux’s ebony, obsidian and diamond cuff.

Barbara Heinrich’s 18-karat yellow gold, black tourmaline and diamond necklace.

w19a004(5)a;7.indd 1 8/16/13 2:30 PM 08162013143744 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 5 WWD.COM

M.C.L by Matthew Campbell Laurenza’s white enamel, sterling silver and black spinel earrings.

Gilan’s black rhodium-plated, 18-karat white Tito Pedrini’s 18-karat yellow gold, gold and black black spinel and diamond ring. diamond cuff.

Slane’s sterling silver, black onyx and diamond pendant.

David Yurman’s sterling silver and black onyx earrings. John Hardy’s silver and black sapphire ring. Anzie’s silver, gunmetal drusy and black onyx earrings.

Sethi Couture’s black rhodium-plated 18-karat white gold, white gold, black diamond and white diamond ring. DELVALLE HAILEY SHELLHAMMER AND CASSAUNDRA

Isharya’s 18-karat gold-plated brass and black lapis cuff. Efva Attling’s silver, black onyx and white agate ring. ASSISTANTS: FASHION

w19a004(5)a;7.indd 2 8/16/13 2:31 PM 08162013143745 6 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 Hal’s Next Act: Fashion Designer cinating. i think they’re smarter, more While Martin Vachon declined to By Marc KariMzadeh pragmatic, better organized. i think disclose sales projections, she noted, they’re physically stronger than men.” “We invest in building brands. The NeW YOrK — When it comes to his But all too often, he noted, women possibilities for hal’s line are endless. personal style, hal rubenstein is loyal are also their harshest critics. “every he has a multitude of expertise, and

to his look: jacket, shirt and jeans morning, a woman looks in the mir- his philosophy of inspiring women to teamed with statement-making jew- ror and sees the five things she doesn’t celebrate their individuality will truly elry, like stacked bracelets and bold like about herself, and she gets dressed resonate with our customer.” rings including his bar mitzvah ring from that point of view,” he said. “i’ve rubenstein is simultaneously and his signature thumb ring. and worked with women and this is all i launching his own editorial site, halru- always cowboy boots, preferably by hear. ‘My shoulders are too round.’ ‘My benstein.com, which is separate from

Lucchese or Tony Lama. breasts are too low.’ ‘My calves are too hSN. The site will feature such recur- his belief in the power of personal small.’ ‘My feet are too wide.’ ‘My knees ring features as “haute hal,” “hungry style is the foundation of rubenstein’s aren’t pretty and my fingers are stubby.’ hal” and “headstrong hal,” via which next act: fashion designer. Next month, The litany goes on and on. i am not buy- he will opine on everything from fash- the writer, magazine editor, author, pas- ing it. There are seven billion people in ion to food, the latter of which he calls sionate foodie and opinionated talking this world, which means there are 3.5 his “first love.” (he was a longtime res- head will unveil’’ a namesake apparel billion women. and when she gets up taurant critic at New York magazine.) and footwear collection for hSN. and looks in the mirror, wouldn’t it be “i don’t get to wear the clothes that “hal is an expert in the fashion edito- cooler if she realized that out of the 3.5 i’m designing, but food is something i rial industry,” said anne Martin Vachon, billion women, not a single one of them do. i love food. i cook like crazy. i think hSN’s chief merchandising officer, who sees the same reflection she sees? No it’s something that people are excited worked closely with rubenstein on the one has your face. No one has your ex- about.” There will also be features on launch. “he is loved by the consumer periences. No one has your life. No one and is known for counseling women has the people around you who love on all things style. at hSN we focus on you. So, in other words, there is no one delivering entertainment, inspiration, else like you in the world.” personalities and industry experts to hilfiger and Locks were so impressed provide an entirely unique shopping ex- by rubenstein’s passion that they en- perience for our customers. With hal’s couraged him to start his own line. background, he was a natural fit.” The clothes and shoes, made by Tiger it took a while for rubenstein to J and Fortune Footwear, respectively, rev up the courage to make the leap celebrate the values the newly minted My mother always said, ‘ We should leave the house expecting to run into somebody we went to high school with.’ — HAL RUBENSTEIN

from writing about clothes to designing designer is so passionate about. With a them. hSN inc. chief executive officer focus on leather details, key pieces for Mindy Grossman, whom rubenstein fall include an animal-pattern coat with has known socially for some time, leather side panels, a faux fur vest, an would periodically bring up the idea, asymmetric dress with a lace shoulder but at the time, he was still the full-time and sleeve, and red pumps with black fashion director at inStyle (he is also a lace overlay and bow detail. founding editor of the magazine). hSN’s Martin Vachon described his philanthropy. rubenstein supports “ Yo u can’t do that when you work rubenstein’s collection as “beautifully such organizations as Live Out Loud, on staff at a publication,” rubenstein tailored clothes in comfortable, caress- which connects lesbian, gay, bisexual said sitting in hSN’s light-filled offices able fabrics, offered in a prism of flat- and transgender youth to role models in Midtown Manhattan. “i loved my tering colors. These are clothes that and leaders in the LGBT community, job so it wasn’t an issue, but this kept women will want to own and collect as well as One heartland, specifically coming up. i started thinking about and feel good about purchasing’’ and its camp heartland program for chil- separating myself from the day-to-day will enhance her own individual style.” dren with hiV and their caretakers. activities at the magazine, to start new as rubenstein put it, “My mother it’s a cause he is deeply devoted to with projects and new challenges.” always said, ‘We should leave the much personal meaning. rubenstein an editor at large at inStyle since house expecting to run into somebody said he has been hiV positive for more October, he also consults for sev- we went to high school with.’” than two-and-a-half decades, and the eral companies and brands, includ- For the designer, the collection is reality impacts his daily outlook and ing coach, Neiman Marcus, Giorgio deeply personal in more ways than one. accounts for his fearlessness to try new armani and american express. rubenstein’s mother and the “amaz- ventures. he also gives to Standing When, at one point, rubenstein and ing” women he grew up with were a Tall, the Upper West Side school for Tommy hilfiger started exploring the big inspiration when it came to design- children with neuromotor disorders. idea of doing a television show, hilfiger ing. “My mother’s the best teacher i in addition, rubenstein is putting arranged a meeting with executives ever had,” he said. “My sister’s my best the finishing touches on his second book from hSN, as well as Mark Locks, ceo friend. My grandmother was a seam- with harpercollins “about great mo- of Tiger J. The company manufactures stress. She lived with us and there was a ments in romance and how these mo- hSN collections for Giuliana rancic and sewing machine going all day long. i was ments in T V, movies, popular culture, Queen Latifah, for example, and lines taught to sew at a very young age. i de- politics changed the way we’ve looked for the likes of dennis Basso and the signed costumes in college. and i found at love, sex, revenge, birth, life, death.” Kardashian clan for QVc. rubenstein these women endlessly fascinating. despite his lack of formal design had his opinions on how clothes were My mother was a handsome training, rubenstein maintains that being presented and sold on television. woman,” he added. “My father thought years in editorial provide sufficient “i have a very clear image of how i my mother was elizabeth Taylor, street cred for his hSN endeavor. Still, see women, and i felt that the clothes on doris day, Marilyn Monroe and Julia he’s careful to distinguish confidence T V, unfortunately, played into a woman’s roberts rolled into one. he just from hubris. “Narciso [rodriguez] and insecurity,” he said. “a lot of women adored her, but she was very self-con- raf [Simons] and Jack [Mccollough] and over the age of 35 feel that fashion is scious. it took her years to realize how Lazaro [hernandez] won’t have to sit either not for them or that they should much fun it would be to get dressed up, biting their nails over me,” he said. basically cover up what they think are and to see herself the way that he saw “These are clothes that will work in their flaws and do the best they can.” her. and that’s my goal.” your life. Let me put it this way: i don’t Missing “was something we did at The collection, priced from $40 see myself ever doing a runway show. i inStyle from the very beginning: The to $300, will launch on hSN Sept. 27, have enormous respect for people like sense that ‘You can do this’ and ‘Why not as part of the network’s Fall Fashion Karl Lagerfeld and Mr. armani and always present your best self?’ i have Series lineup that also includes david Narciso and my late, great friend Mr. spent the last 20 years talking to women, Meister, r.J. Graziano, dee hilfiger, Versace. What a blessing to be in an in- women of all ages and all economic lev- Twiggy, iman, June ambrose, Giuliana dustry so surrounded by creativity. i’m els, shapes and sizes. i find women fas- rancic and iris apfel. not doing fashion. i’m making clothes.”

w19a006(7)a;11.indd 6 8/16/13 6:47 PM 08162013184815 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 7 WWD.COM Swarovski Aims for Top Jeweler Spot {Continued from page one} for the consumers by adding on new categories and 22,856 LED lights, giving the illusion of a without losing focus, of course, of our core busi- crystal structure. ness, which is the jewelry,” Buchbauer said. Designer Swarovski logged revenues of about 1.7 bil- Within that category, which made up 75 per- lion euros, or $2.19 billion, from its consumer cent of net sales last year, Swarovski is seeking goods business in 2012, he said. Total turnover to optimize its offer and maximize the reach to Looks for the Swarovski Group, including business- new consumers. from Hal to-business activities, stood at about 2.3 billion To that end, it has begun to test a new fine Rubenstein’s euros, or $2.96 billion, Buchbauer said. jewelry concept in China, where it has con- fashion Dollar rates are calculated at average verted 20 to 25 percent of the overall sur- collection, exchange for the period to which face of six stores into Swarovski Fine which they refer. Jewelry corners featuring dedi- launches The executive acknowledged cated architecture and specially on HSN that while the Swarovski trained staff. Sept. 27. brand on its own may not “We want to find out whether succeed in toppling the cur- Swarovski as a brand is able to rent market leaders, the credibly carry a fine jewelry group as a whole hopes line. The first indications of our to become a serious chal- test in China are that this is the lenger. “There’s still a case,” Buchbauer explained. lot of room for us to get A Swarovski by The debut Love Paradise there, but you have to put Shourouk necklace. collection is made of 18-karat some ambitious goals in gold, diamond, sapphire, am- place,” he said. ethyst and topaz, with prices Another pillar of de- ranging from $600 to $2,000, velopment is organic he said. growth. The company “The test in China will hopes to expand its run until the end of this network of monobrand year and then we will de- points of sale, operated cide on a further rollout, directly or by partners, depending on the detailed to 3,000 by 2020 from 2,300 results,” he added. “One of the at present, mainly thanks to important things for us is to have growth in emerging markets a good part of that assortment dis- such as Brazil and Indonesia and tributed through our own stores, be- expansion in North America. cause that would definitely have a very Swarovski also plans to develop in- positive effect on the overall productivity

ERICKSEN KYLE house brands and concepts by growing of our stores.” categories such as fashion accessories, Swarovski isn’t the only group with big small leather goods, electronics and statio- ambitions in fine jewelry, however, as the sec- nery, in addition to its existing eyewear and tor becomes one of the hottest for mergers and fragrance licenses. acquisitions. Kering bought Pomellato of Italy Watches, launched in 2009, should account for an estimated $360 million in April, as well for 15 percent of net sales in the consumer as Chinese jewelry brand Qeelin in December, goods division by 2020, versus 5 percent to 7 while Swatch Group bought Harry Winston for percent at present. about $1 billion in January. These followed “It’s important to keep a monobrand retail LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s deal to distribution concept interesting and relevant buy Bulgari. Cashmere Supplier Todd & Duncan Launches Branded Rtw Collection rary,” with a color palette of neutrals and bright By DAVID LIPKE colors. It has a clean, modern aesthetic that would give it adjacencies to brands like Ports SCOTTISH CASHMERE mill Todd & Duncan, 1961 and Burberry Brit. which supplies yarns to some of the world’s The 2,000-square-foot store in SoHo will best-known luxury brands, is aiming to lever- be followed by an e-commerce launch at todd- age its renown in fibers to become a branded duncan.com in September. A wholesale effort to ready-to-wear maker. other retailers will begin in February for the fall 2014 season. Designed by Joanie Knight, vice pres- Fall looks from ident of design and merchandising, the Todd & Duncan. collection retails for between $295 for a classic jersey cashmere sweater up to $1,095 for a cable cashmere coat with leather trim. “We didn’t want to make the price points or the garments too pre- cious,” said D’Esposito. With a history dating back to 1867, Todd & Duncan was acquired by Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere Co. Ltd. in September 2009. Based in Ningxia, China, the publicly traded vertical manufacturer is a leading supplier of raw cashmere fibers as well as finished goods. It had a long business relation- ship selling raw materials to Todd & Duncan prior to the acquisition. With its headquarters in Kinross, Scotland, Todd & Duncan built its present- day reputation as a supplier of fine cash- mere yarns to brands like Chanel, Prada, The company will open its first retail store at Christian Dior, Céline, Ralph Lauren, Donna 54 Greene Street in New York at the end of this Karan, Theory and Brooks Brothers. A separate FOR MORE month, showcasing the new collection of Todd division manufactures finished cashmere appar- IMAGES, SEE & Duncan cashmere sweaters, jackets, skirts, el for private-label clients like Nordstrom, Saks, dresses, outerwear and accessories. Bloomingdale’s, Talbots, Patagonia and C. Wonder. WWD.com/ “Todd & Duncan has built up all this cachet Todd & Duncan opened a New York office and fashion-news.

ALLENDE; HAL RUBENSTEIN BY EDITOR: MAYTE ZHE ZHU; FASHION USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: MAKEUP: MISUZU MIYAKE YAMAKATA/DEFACTO; HAIR: TETSUYA ORTIZ/TRUMP; THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: MARTA as a cashmere yarn brand and we want to take hired about 15 employees to oversee the brand- it to the next level,” said Lisa D’Esposito, the ed collection launch, with a focus initially on the company’s vice president of sales and market- U.S. market. An expansion into Asia and Europe

PHOTOS BY ing. She called the collection “classic contempo- will occur down the road, said D’Esposito. 8 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 WWD.COM Nina’s Newest Adventure: Handbags great craftsmanship, and beautiful leather FASHION SCOOPS By MARC KARIMZADEH and materials. Today, I prefer to see the wonderful old crocodile envelope bag that NEW YORK — Nina Griscom is unveil- I bought in Milan when I was 25 with my GROWTH MODE: Superdry hosted a Bazaar and Vanity Fair (U.S. and U.K.), ing another facet to her career — hand- modeling money, and it holds up and has a dinner Thursday night at the Chateau as well as W, British Vogue and Tatler. bag designer. great shape, and still looks modern.” Marmont in West Hollywood to fete Prices for the Gemfields collection The well-known Manhattan social fig- Griscom worked closely with GiGi a fall collection that takes the brand at couturelab start from 2,678 pounds, ure, television personality and general New York designer Amanda Kinsley and in a mature direction. “It’s a little bit or $4,050, for a brooch by Askill. purveyor of good taste launched her first her team on the designs. For example, the more sophisticated than it’s ever been — JULIA NEEL handbag collection with GiGi New York, capsule lineup includes the Nina, a day with less emphasis on logos. It has the luxury division of Graphic Image. clutch in American haircalf and contrast better, richer fabrics with softer hand STEALING TIME: Two thieves threatened “I have been a customer of Graphic French calfskin, and the Elizabeth, feel, and it’s a lot more directional,” staff at the Hyatt Regency Palais de la Image and GiGi New York,” an evening clutch in haircalf and Méditerranée hotel on the Promenade Griscom recalled Thursday. “I ran soft French calfskin. Both are des Anglais in Nice, France, early Friday into their booth at The Hampton lined in suede and use natural A fall morning, local media reported. The Classic a few years ago, and horn elements for zip- look from pair, armed with a machine gun and loved their things. I pers and closures. Superdry. a machete, concealed their faces with bought a bag or two The bags, priced motorcycle helmets. One of the thieves to bring on safari from $750 to $1,800, cornered the receptionist while the to Africa, and some launched exclusively other got to work on the watch cabinets iPad cases.” at the GiGi New York next to the hotel’s jewelry boutique. She was so im- boutique on Jobs Lane A police spokesman said the robbers pressed with the qual- in Southampton, N.Y. left the scene on scooters. The value of ity of the products, the Friday, as well as at gigi- the haul has not yet been calculated, but range of exotic skins newyork.com (she will it is believed Rolex watches were among and the fact that all link to the site from those stolen. items were made in ninagriscom.com). They There has been a rash of robberies America that she ap- will also be available at targeting the upmarket hotels and shops proached the compa- GiGi New York’s booth on the Côte D’Azur this summer. Last ny’s executives to start A handbag from the Nina Griscom at The Hampton Classic month an armed robber made off with her own line. for GiGi New York collection. horse show, which takes 40 million euros, or $53 “I always had a place Aug. 25 to Sept. 1. FOR MORE million at current exchange, hankering to do some bags, I love bags,” “It’s a very small collection to start,” SCOOPS, SEE in jewels from the Carlton said Griscom. “We have been working for Griscom noted. “We are starting out gen- hotel on the Boulevard de the last year on developing this, and fi- tly to see the audience reaction.” WWD.com la Croisette in Cannes. And nally we have product to sell now.” For Griscom, who once operated two jewel thieves struck twice Griscom — who has more bags in her boutiques selling mostly things for the there during the Cannes Film own closet than she cares to admit — is home, handbags represent another oppor- Festival in May, making off quite clear about her handbag philoso- tunity to present her lifestyle philosophy. said Gerard Guez, chairman and chief with $1 million worth of Chopard jewelry phy, which shows in the designs: “I am “I am very much hoping to grow the Nina executive officer of Sunrise Brands, and a de Grisogono necklace valued at 2 not interested in things with a whole lot Griscom division of GiGi New York into a the American licensee for U.K.-based million euros, or $2.6 million. — J.N. of garbage on them, and I am certainly much deeper line of product: handbags, Superdry. Guez pointed to outerwear not interested in logos.” but also accessories, leather jewelry, trav- pieces, T-shirts and cargo pants as key I.T GIRL: I.T Group, the Hong Kong fashion For her part, “I like things that have el,” she said. “That’s my deepest hope.” items in Superdry’s fall assortment. conglomerate and licensee, is bringing To tout the fall collection, Superdry seven of its in-house labels to London will be advertising in New York taxicabs as part of a “take-over” at Selfridges to and subway stations starting in late celebrate I.T’s 25th anniversary. The September. After four years in the U.S., seven Hong Kong street fashion brands, Superdry has built a retail network of which have never before been sold in the 14 stores and plans to add seven to 10 U.K., are part of I.T’s portfolio of young locations next year. Guez mentioned a contemporary brands that are aimed at a second Las Vegas store would bow in fashion- and budget-conscious consumer. March. This year, Superdry has four Set over 2,500 square feet on the ground U.S. openings: at Sawgrass Mills in floor, the brands on offer include Izzue, Sunrise, Fla.; South Street Seaport b + ab, 5cm, Chocoolate, Fingercroxx, Hello Tomorrow in New York; Glendale Galleria in Aape and Mini Cream. The brands have Glendale, Calif., and on Lincoln Road also created exclusive “Selfie”-branded in Miami. — RACHEL BROWN products in Selfridges’ trademark yellow and black, including a sweatshirt, bobble FIRST TIME: In a first for Gemfields, the scarf, beanie hat and canvas tote, and one-off designer jewelry it created cases for the iPhone and iPad. in collaboration with a selection The I.T pop-up will launch on the of international jewelers will be first day of London Fashion Week — available to purchase for the first Sept. 13 — and be in situ until Oct. 7. time at couturelab, the London-based I.T will also partner with Galeries boutique and e-commerce site. From Lafayette in Paris on a retrospective September, and following a world of archive pieces from the luxury tour, 12 of the pieces created by brands it operates in Asia — including international designers Alexandra Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Mor, Anndra Neen, Dominic Jones, Duffy, Demeulemeester and Comme Des Fernando Jorge, Jasmine Alexander, Garçons. In addition, the company Jordan Askill, Penny Winter, Nam is working on a global project Cho, Shaun Leane and Wendy Yue with art and design schools from will be available for sale at across the world, including couturelab’s Belgravia, London, Parsons The New School for store and on couturelab.com. Design and Central Saint The designers used Gemfields’ Martins, to be exhibited in Zambian emeralds and Beijing. — J.N. amethysts, and Mozambican rubies to create one-of-a-kind HEADING UPSTATE: Michael pieces exclusively for the Kors has signed a lease for environmentally and socially a new store at Crossgates A necklace by responsible mining company. Mall in Albany, N.Y., to open Fly to Milan Anndra Neen. “The Gemfields philosophy next spring, according aligns perfectly with our own to sources. Kors is the in a new fashion — by telling the story of the second big company to stones and working with the head to Crossgates after Enjoy multi-course gourmet meals and over 1,400 channels of entertainment world’s leading jewelers, Lord & Taylor said last at every seat. Or simply close the doors to your private suite and relax in the collection at couturelab week it would open a your own quiet space. Fly Emirates non-stop from JFK to Milan starting represents everything 100,000-square-foot store October 1st. Say hello to arriving in style at Italy’s high-fashion hub. we stand for; exceptional next fall. Expected for craftsmanship, unique the Christmas shopping product and brands with a season will be a pop-up emirates.com/usa story to tell,” said couturelab Crate & Barrel one of only founder Carmen Busquets. four that will run nationwide, The partnership will be said mall general manager “Airline of the Year” 2013 Skytrax World Airline Awards supported by a collaborative Joseph Castaldo. His hope is that if advertising campaign that will appear all goes well Crate & Barrel will remain in the October issues of Harper’s at Crossgates. — ELIZABETH MORROW MEMO PAD JUST WHEN YOU THOUGHT IT WAS SAFE: On Thursday at around 10 a.m., in the conference room of Condé Nast Traveler’s 14th-floor offices at 4 Times Square, staff gathered to hear from Condé executives after their longtime editor in chief, Klara Glowczewska, was fired a day earlier. WWDSTYLE Thomas Wallace, Condé Nast’s editorial director and a former Traveler editor in chief, was there, as were chief executive officer Charles Townsend, president Bob Sauerberg, and Pilar Guzmán, the former editor of Martha Stewart Living who’d just been named the new Traveler editor in chief. There was another figure in the room who’d returned from vacation just for the occasion, Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue and Condé Nast artistic director. Master Her presence at the meeting was duly noted. Glowczewska is the second editor in chief fired at Condé since Wintour took on the role of artistic director, although Wintour is believed to have had a bigger hand in Class the hiring of Guzmán than in the dismissal of her predecessor. And unlike at Lucky, Chinese actress Ziyi Zhang where Wintour was deeply involved in the has made her second film reinvention of the magazine and Brandon with director Wong Kar-wai, Holley’s exit, she didn’t spend much time a poetic kung-fu epic endorsed by another noted cineast and now called “Martin Scorsese Presents ‘The Grandmaster.’” For more, see page 10.

Klara Pilar Glowczewska Guzmán

tweaking Traveler. But her sign of approval was pivotal when Condé executives decided the time had finally come for a top-to-bottom overhaul of the “Truth in Travel” bible, several sources said. For some editors at Condé, Glowczewska’s exit cast Wintour’s new outsize influence in sharp relief because for years the veteran editor had been untouchable, a protégé of Wallace who was immune to reprisal despite the dwindling profits of her magazine. That even she was fair game sent another reminder that while a handful of editors in the building might have tenure for life, most don’t. The only lingering question was: Who’s next? Glowczewska, a Polish-born journalist and accomplished translator, was with Traveler since its launch in 1987. Sir Harry Evans, the magazine’s founding editor, recalled she was “first class on everything she did.” She rose from features editor to executive editor, and when Wallace became editorial director in 2005, she was handpicked to succeed him as the magazine’s editor in chief.

FOR COOKIE MAGAZINE THEO WARGO/WIREIMAGE She was the quintessential back-of-the- class editor. She didn’t bother anyone, and no one bothered her. Under her watch, Traveler quietly chugged along like a regal, if antiquated, ocean liner. She picked up a couple of National

GUZMAN BY TRAVELER; Magazine Award nominations, and her staff worshipped her. When Condé demanded cutbacks from all the titles, Glowczewska avoided layoffs by reducing salaries and hours. The inability to make staff changes also opened her up to criticism that the magazine was stale. Circulation, down to 809,604 by December from 814,390 at the end of 2010, had improved in the first quarter thanks to digital replicas to 821,087, according to the Alliance for Audited Media. Ad pages declined slightly last year, by 5.53 percent, according to Media Industry Newsletter. But for years, even as far back as 2009, DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES FOR CONDE NAST when the publisher was Chris Mitchell, now at GQ and Guzmán’s husband, the business side complained that Traveler was tired and thus difficult to sell. There PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO was also frustration with the magazine on the 11th floor, Condé’s executive suite.

PHOTO BY GLOWCZEWSKA {Continued on page 11} 10 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013

One important aspect of the actress’ Here, and on the Style cover: preparation for the film was the martial Ziyi Zhang in a Paule Ka top and arts training, which took six months. “It Hudson Jeans with Christian was a boot camp, and we all had different Louboutin shoes, an H.Stern bracelet martial arts masters,” Zhang says. “In the and Repossi rings. beginning, the masters were very nice to us — happy, chatting, taking pictures.” But after a while, she says, “being a movie star means nothing. It was kind of a nightmare.” Zhang had the advantage of being a highly trained dancer who attended the Beijing Dance Academy and won a national youth dance championship when she was 15. The result of the intensive kung fu training was, she says, that by the time filming began, the martial arts movements were so familiar to her that even during the fight sequences, she could still concentrate primarily on creating her character. However, Zhang notes, “In China Zhang with

at that time, women were not allowed Tony Leung to learn martial arts. They were not in “Martin allowed to have a dream. They had to Scorsese stay at home and serve.” Today, she says, Presents ‘The women are taking power for themselves, Grandmaster.’” “not like waiting for anybody to give it.” She adds of her character, “She is very

sad. A lot of my characters are very sad.” Spirit Awards, the Toronto Film Critics “The Grandmaster” was years in the Association Awards and the Golden making. “Everyone gave a lot of effort to Bauhinia Awards, along with a Young this project,” she says. When she saw the Artist Award. She also appeared in final cut of the film, she says, she thought, “Rush Hour 2” in 2001, “Hero” in 2002, “Oh, that’s what I did for three years.” “House of Flying Daggers” in 2004 and Zhang was born·· in Beijing; her “Memoirs of a Geisha” in 2005, a role that father was an accountant, then became was controversial because she and her an economist, while her mother was a costars Gong Li and Michelle Yeoh are all kindergarten teacher. “I am from a very Chinese, and they were playing Japanese simple background,” she observes more women. It received excellent reviews, than once during the interview. After however, and did well at the box office. studying dance, she went to China’s The actress says that it’s the norm Central Academy of Drama. While there, for Chinese performers to try to pick Grand she got her first film role, in Zhang up as many commercial endorsements Yimou’s film “The Road Home,” which as possible, including those for all was released in 1999. She played the kinds of food, but she has tried to limit role of Jen in “Crouching Tiger, Hidden hers. Then she and her translator start Gestures JOHN AQUINO Dragon,” which came out in 2000, and laughing about a strange trend in Korea: for which she won best supporting male stars shilling for sanitary napkins. actress honors from the Independent Zhang has represented Omega Watches PHOTO BY

ACTRESS Ziyi Zhang still lives in her he is the master. He gave me a map; hometown of Beijing, but that has its I get on the train with him. I have no disadvantages. One is that as a big star in idea what the final destination is, but a really big country, she can’t go out on I knew there would be stops. Going on We all know he has no script, but we build up the street during the day without being this journey, I slowly understand my hounded by the paparazzi. “At night, character more and better.” the film on trust….He gave me a map; I get on maybe,” she says. The other difficulty is Wong returns the compliment. the “very bad” pollution in the Chinese Asked what it was like to work with the train with him. I have no idea what the final capital. She recalls spending two weeks Zhang, he says, “Gong Er could not in New York not long ago, then returning have been brought to life without Ziyi’s to Beijing and becoming ill, which she tremendous talent and dedication. Ziyi destination is, but I knew there would be stops. attributes to the fact that her lungs were possesses the same iconic spirit and simply not used to the clean air. repertoire that Greta Garbo brought to — ZIYI ZHANG ON WORKING WITH WONG KAR-WEI “Everyone has a car, and no one classic Hollywood. This film would not cares about the air,” she says of China’s have been the same without her.” pollution problem. Zhang is in Manhattan in connection with her latest film, “Martin Scorsese Presents ‘The Grandmaster,’” directed by Wong Kar-wai, which will open nationwide FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE on Aug. 23. The subject of the WWD.com/eye. visually striking movie is Tony Leung’s character Ip Man, a martial artist in the Wing Chun style who trained Bruce Lee. Zhang plays a fictional character, Gong Er, the daughter of a rival martial artist, Gong Yutian, whose school is Bagwa. Both father and ·· daughter fight Ip Man, and Gong Er and Ip Man develop romantic feelings for each other. “It’s not a typical kung fu movie,” the actress says. “It’s about the forbidden, the tension that lies beneath.” Zhang also appeared in Wong’s film “2046,” which came out in 2004. “For me, it wasn’t as nervous as before,” says Zhang, of making her second film with the director. A slender beauty who is relaxed, funny and irreverent, she is wearing a white satin Paule Ka top detailed with rhinestones and a bow; Hudson Jeans, and Christian Louboutin shoes, along with an H.Stern bracelet and multiple Repossi rings on her long fingers. She has a translator on hand, although she doesn’t Ziyi Zhang really need one, and she asks for the in Giorgio Zhang in correct English word from time to time. Armani at Zhang in lime Armani at the “We all know he has no script, but we the Academy

green Armani Met Costume SARDELLA WHALEN AND KRISTIN SOMODY DONATO build up the film on trust,” she continues. Awards at the Golden Institute gala “I trust him, but we have no script, don’t in 2006. Globes in 2006. in 2008.

know how long the movie [shoot] is, but PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 11 WWD.COM

One source concluded the reason for Glowczewska’s departure was she didn’t MEMO PAD fit with the mold of the new, millennial Condé Nast, repeating the earlier eye {Continued from page 9} criticism she didn’t move fast enough to Glowczewska stuck it out anyway. adapt, or perhaps wasn’t willing to do so. “She was Tom’s girl,” said a source, “Klara was a victim of her own and everyone knew she was off-limits. largesse. She did not make some difficult Her exit now was the result of a decisions,” the source said. “She wasn’t combination of factors. willing to be ruthless, and that’s what it Traveler had once been the third-most- would have taken to stay in her position.” profitable magazine at Condé, in the early A formal announcement about 2000s. But those profits have tumbled so that Glowczewska was distributed shortly it’s now a second-tier brand, according to a after 6 p.m., as Condé brass gathered to source. At the Thursday morning meeting, toast Phillips with a high-rollers party at Wallace told staff a change in leadership Marea that drew even Leonard Lauder. There, was necessary because while other Townsend, flanked by Sauerberg and chief magazines in the company had recovered administrative officer Jill Bright, was already after the recession, Traveler hadn’t. praising Guzmán’s return to the family. “Something needed to change,” he said, On Thursday morning, at the staff according to two sources. Representatives meeting, “the atmosphere in the room for Condé Nast, Traveler and Vogue did was somber,” one source said. Some not respond to requests for comment. of the people in the room had worked When she became artistic director, with Glowczewska for decades. Wallace Wintour met with Glowczewska, as she acknowledged the sensitivity of the Here and below: Zhang in the film. had with all the other editors in chief, and moment, and the difficult transition ahead. explained Traveler was in need of a serious After she was introduced by Sauerberg, shoe shine. She suggested a more fashion- Guzmán said a few words, and then they since 2009, Maybelline since 2001 forward front of the book and more style were off to a meeting with the business and Visa from 2001 to 2003. She has features. Glowczewska seemed responsive. side. Glowczewska was not present. endorsed Precious Platinum from 2007 “Klara was making an investment in Guzmán’s transition is proceeding quickly. until the present, and Garnier from 2006 trying to rejuvenate the brand. She kept On Thursday night, she stopped by a GQ to 2009. She is also a global ambassador an open mind,” said another source. party at the High Line Hotel thrown by her for the Special Olympics and a But Condé executives decided those husband, Mitchell. She said conversations spokeswoman for Care for Children, a changes would be cosmetic. The magazine with Condé began recently, and again foster-care program in China. needed to follow the model set by the acknowledged Wintour’s influence. Zhang says that she never could overhaul of Bon Appétit, which got a new “Anna in her new role brings her have anticipated her success. After she leadership team in 2011. After Bill Wackermann incredible expertise, visual and editorial appeared in her first role, her photo was moved over to Traveler from Glamour to and incredible sensibility. In her new role, suddenly turned up on the cover of a make room for Time Inc. poach Connie Anne she’s been charged with reinvigorating magazine. “My dad was shocked, and Phillips, formerly of InStyle, it became clear certain titles, along with Tom,” she said. he bought, like, about 100 copies,” to some a new editor was needed as well. Guzmán expects bold changes at Traveler. she says. “Fortunately, it was not an Wintour signed off on the move. “ Yo u have to assess what’s there and expensive magazine.” She remembers “Anna’s not afraid to make changes. see who’s game, who’s willing to get on spending a lot of time on the set of her She made [Townsend and Sauerberg] the change bandwagon. Sometimes it just first film watching the monitor, trying comfortable that it was OK, that she could takes an outsider to shift the focus. I’m to learn as much as she could about find the right people to take over,” a source sure there will be certain changes, but I her new metier. said. Guzmán, already an alum of Condé have an open mind,” she said. As for her career today, Zhang says, from her days as editor of Cookie, fit the As the party was drawing to a close, “Directors think I am a very serious bill — a young, energetic editor who could Guzmán seemed pleased to have put Martha actress. I need to produce my own films work with a publisher, and was married to Stewart Living Omnimedia behind her. to do a comedy.” She would also like to a publisher to boot. Wallace, too, came to “It was an honor to be able to shepherd do “a scary movie,” or a fantasy film, embrace the idea — the decline in profits a brand like that,” she said, sounding like like “The Lord of the Rings.” Asked to had become inexcusable. He personally someone who’d just completed a very long tour name some of her favorite directors, Mainland China to Taiwan in 1949. informed Glowczewska of the decision of duty. “It’s a very unique place. Everybody she mentions Steven Spielberg, adding, In choosing her parts, she says, “The Wednesday morning, blindsiding the who has stayed there, who can survive “If that isn’t too much of a cliché.” Then character, the story and the director editor. She told her staff at 1:45 p.m. there, really lives the life.” — ERIK MAZA she says, “He’s a sweet guy. I’ve met for me are the most important. I think him a few times. He was always very I have a very strong instinct. I can see encouraging. I loved his film ‘War Horse.’ the whole picture, that’s how I pick. I cried like hell in the cinema.” Another Sometimes the role is not big.” director she admires is Baz Luhrmann. The actress says that these days One way in which Chinese films there are many more opportunities for differ greatly from Western ones is Chinese women in films, and there are that nudity is not allowed and sex isn’t many more coproductions between spelled out on-screen. Zhang says that Chinese and Western film companies the reason for this is that China has as the West seeks to tap into a market For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. no rating system, so that anyone of any of 1.3 billion people. She says that age is allowed to see any film. new movie theaters are opening in The actress is enthusiastic about China every week. She also agrees fashion and mentions Valentino as a that Asian women are beginning to current favorite designer. She says that be more prominently featured in Spaces she also likes Jason Wu and Alison Western advertising. “I think it’s Wong: “They’re fun and cool and young.” starting to open up — the market is COMMERCIAL Then she adds, “I’m very proud of them. so big, that’s why,” she says. 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(800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] 12 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 WWD.COM Nasty Gal Growing Beyond Online Roots {Continued from page one} PU and leather collection. joined the team at the end of last month of a full apparel line later that month, re- The shoe line is the latest expansion as vice president of brand marketing. tailing from $80 to $400. Footwear, which for an online success story that the in- She also tapped Sarah Wilkinson, for- has consistently been a solid part of the dustry is watching closely. merly of Asos, as vice president of design business, was the next logical step. “In addition to the pure margin bene- late last year — and her first projects are “If I post a picture of my day, it’s, fits of private-label expansion, Nasty Gal Shoe Cult and the new fall collection. whatever, but if I post a picture of gets to exercise even more control of how The addition of in-house product last my shoes, [my followers] freak,” said their vision and curation is being provid- year was a turning point for the company. Amoruso, clad in a formfitting nude, ed to the market,” said Al Sambar, a re- Parkes, who previously held posts at A bootie from mesh long-sleeved top and high-waisted tail strategist at Kurt Salmon Associates. Nike, MySpace and Levi’s, said about 20 Nasty Gal’s skirt at SoHo’s Crosby Street Hotel here. Nasty Gal is good at curating an as- percent of the product on nastygal.com is Shoe Cult She was in town for a dinner last week to sortment for a very specific customer, footwear. This includes about 800 styles collection. toast the footwear collection. using social media to talk to that shop- — but come October, Shoe Cult will in- Shoe Cult will have 45 styles to start, per and visually merchandising the site, crease this selection by another 20 per- followed by another 50 in September and Sambar said. cent with 180 styles. 60 more to come in October. The collec- “This allows them to drive organic Parkes declined to comment on further tion includes pumps, platform sandals, traffic,” he noted. “The customer comes investments, but he did explain where the booties, sneakers, sandals and flats, and because they want to hear their opinion money raised to date has been spent. will sell for $68 to $188. and see what Sophia thinks.” “The company has gone through this In addition to the aesthetics — a lot When that’s the case, the strategist incredible evolution — Sophia starting of heavy metal work, quilted detailing, said, it’s not as challenging for an orga- it literally in her bedroom — and as it statement straps and colors and pat- nization to get customers to come back to shifts into a real company, there are a lot terns ranging from silver, electric blue the site and stay connected. “If you can of things that need to take place,” Parkes The brand’s and red to leopard and black-and-white do that, there’s not as much urgency in said, outlining three areas: logistics, de- Shoe Cult Jet polka dots — keeping the price point in figuring out your marketplace strategy,” sign and marketing and branding. “It’s Mesh Pump. line with the site’s offering was key for he said. “Other brands that don’t have as not the most exciting, but logistics, the Amoruso. Although the site will contin- strong a connection [to shoppers], that back-end and fulfillment were one of the In the coming months, she plans to ue to carry shoes in a wholesale capac- aren’t drawing organic traffic with cus- first things we needed to take care of as appoint a director of nonapparel to grow the company matures.” the accessories portion of the business. He added that as the brand has de- The executive will focus on footwear veloped its in-house product offering, and other accessories such as handbags Nasty Gal’s first print ad. there’s been significant investment in and jewelry. design and the way in which apparel Nasty Gal enjoys an engaged consum- and shoes are produced. The last piece er base and an active social media fol- has been a marketing and branding lowing in the space. The top 10 percent component. of customers return more than 100 times “Consumer-facing investments that a month, and users spend an average of will start to pay off are next,” Parkes six minutes on nastygal.com. It has near- said. “The first print advertising is in ly 900,000 Instagram followers and about the market right now [in the September 78,000 images tagged on the medium with issues of Elle, Nylon and Teen Vogue], the hashtag #nastygal. On Facebook and and that is something you will start to Twitter, the company has about 870,000 see more of.” In support of Shoe Cult, the likes and 120,000 followers, respectively. company is planning a series of market- Amoruso maintains her own personal ing events over the coming months and Instagram account that has more than into next year. 51,000 followers, and although she sees “The money we took has been focused the value in the social channels, she on those areas,” Parkes said. “As you wants to increasingly move the conver- evolve into a company and into a house- sation with consumers onto the brand’s hold name, from a brand standpoint, you own digital flagship. have to get your house in order. The way “I don’t know what it will look like yet, that the funding has been spent was delib- but we want to create more of own con- erate in building out those three pillars.” tent and interact [with users],” Amoruso Amoruso said the next categories for said. “For us [and on our site], I don’t ity from designers like Jeffrey Campbell tomers, have to then find ways to bring the in-house line are intimates and swim- think the word blog will be used in a and Sam Edelman, she saw a place in that traffic to their site. Ultimately, if wear, which will launch in 2014. Nasty year. Content will exist, but in the form of the market for fashion-forward styles you can’t [do this] then you might have to Gal has dabbled in swim before, but this a blog — I don’t think so.” that aren’t pumps for less than $150. She turn to marketplaces like Amazon that do will be the first major effort in the area. Another area she wants to concentrate wanted to cater to her customer who is draw traffic.” She calls the upcoming line of inti- on going forward is “real-world stuff ” buying a $68 dress and often can’t spend Amoruso, who started selling vin- mates “inherently sexy” — and much like spanning fashion, music, culture and art- an additional $200 on a pair of shoes. tage wares out of her home via an eBay with footwear, the product will fill a void centric events and stores — whether this “The margin on manufactured shoes store in 2006, is set on making Nasty she sees in the market. means pop-up shops or permanent free- is an opportunity to have a more profit- Gal a household name, and she’s made “There’s not a lot between Victoria’s standing doors. able business, and we can pass that on some big hires to help get her company Secret and Kiki de Montparnasse, and “I’m not a digital purist or anything,” to customers because we aren’t paying there. She said it took six months to get we know how to design cool, weird s--t,” she said. “It gave me the opportunity to wholesale prices,” Amoruso said of the Christian Parkes on board, who officially Amoruso said. start a brand, but it’s not my religion.”

OBITUARY Rosalía Mera In the year ended Jan. 31, the retailer notched net profits of $2.96 billion on sales of $20.48 billion. Rosalía Mera, Inditex Founder, 69 Although Mera, a billionaire, no longer served on the board, she still owned 5.05 died Thursday evening. She was one of percent of the company through the family By SAMANTHA CONTI the richest women in the world, with a investment vehicle Rosp Corunna, accord- net worth of $5.5 billion. ing to an Inditex spokeswoman. Ortega ROSALÍA MERA, Spain’s richest woman, Born in 1944, Mera dropped out of continues to own 59.3 percent of Inditex. who founded and built Inditex with her school at age 11 to work as a seamstress. He is the richest person in Europe and former husband Amancio Ortega, has In the Sixties, with husband Ortega, she the fourth-richest in the world with a net died, the company confirmed Friday. started making dressing gowns and lin- worth of about $57 billion. “The Inditex Group is deeply sad- gerie based on designer brands in their Mera is survived by her daughter, dened to learn of the death of Rosalía living room. By the early Seventies, they Sandra, and her son, Marcos Ortega Mera. Mera. The group wishes to send its sin- had several hundred employees and After Inditex’s initial public offering in cere condolences to her loved ones and many retailers. Realizing they would 2001, Mera put the $600 million that she friends at this extremely difficult time, profit more by selling directly to custom- netted at the time into a diverse range of after the loss of a person who contrib- ers, they founded Inditex in 1975 and interests: a marine fish farming group, a uted so much to the origins and develop- opened the first Zara store in La Coruña maker of a fingerprinting system for new- ment of the company,” the company said. that the same year. The couple had in- borns and the pharmaceutical firm Zeltia. An Inditex spokeswoman declined tended to call it Zorba after the “Zorba She also invested in London’s Bulgari further comment, saying the company the Greek” movie, but a bar in the city Hotel and was behind a contest for young wants to respect the family’s privacy. had already claimed the name. Since jazz musicians in Spain. Her Paideia According to press reports in Spain they already had molds for the letters, Foundation works to integrate physically and Britain, Mera was 69 years old and they opted for Zara. and mentally disabled people, like her had suffered a stroke on the island of Today, the company has more than IMAGES XURXO LOBATO/GETTY son Marcos, into larger society. Menorca, where she was on holiday. She 6,000 outlets for brands including Zara, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

was flown home to La Coruña, where she Zara Home, Massimo Dutti and Bershka. PHOTO BY FROM JULIA NEEL WWDLASVEGAS SECTION II IM FRIDAY (WOMEN’S) IM FRIDAY

ANEL BEAUTÉ AT SUSAN PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION ASSISTANT: ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY LUIS CAMPUZANO (MEN’S) AND K LUIS ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION SUSAN PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT: AT ANEL BEAUTÉ RETAIL HIT LISTS SCENE All VENDOR OUTLOOK About ONES TO Ease WATCH Breezy looks and buoyant spirits abound ON HIM: Haspel’s jacket at Project, Benson’s shirt at Liberty and Victorinox’s as vendors and buyers turn Las Vegas into pants at Project, all in cotton. a giant showroom this week with a slew of ON HER: Jessica Simpson Collection’s trade shows, most of which kick off today. polyester blazer at WWDMAGIC and LNA’s silk camisole and pants at ENK Vegas. Alkemie necklaces and ring. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: BEN W/NY MODELS AND CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MARCOS DIAZ; MAKEUP BY ANNE KOLHHAGEN FOR CH ANNE KOLHHAGEN DIAZ; MAKEUP BY MARCOS GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: BEN W/NY MODELS AND CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS

Honey Salt Firefly on Paradise 1031 South Rampart Boulevard A fast fix of Tel.: 702-445-6100 fun and facts. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sceneice to create the illusion of a Web: honeysalt.com smoking cauldron. VooDoo is an indoor-outdoor FLY BY NIGHT double-decker nightclub with a striking steel staircase that of- ONE OF The FIRST TAPAS fers one of the best views in Las restaurants in Las Vegas a Vegas. Dancing is courtesy of the decade ago, Firefly famously club’s house band and nightly serves its bacon-wrapped DJs who keep the party going. dates ($5) and three-day marinated ning environment is the Tranquility The club is located directly house-made sangria (glass $7, pitcher Hallway, lit by Moroccan lanterns and above VooDoo Steak, Rio’s sig- $28) at its two locations. featuring its Golden Buddha. nature steak house. Anyone Its flavorful menu includes hot and One of the signature services is the who dines at the restaurant cold plates in a laid-back, warm ambi- Encore Escape, a 105-minute massage prior to coming to the nightclub ence meant to offset the extravagant using Thai poultice bags, heated stones skips the cover charge. The restaurants of the Strip. and Hawaiian lomi-lomi techniques that The Chandelier Bar hotel is host to the Women’s Rachael Ray called Firefly’s gaz- ends with a scalp massage using Indian Wear In Nevada trade show, so pacho “delicious and refreshing” and Shirodhara oil treatment ($375). Encore’s WWIN attendees are also ad- its artichoke toasts “just perfect” on most popular treatment remains the SPARKLE PLENTY mitted free with their lanyard. Food Network’s “$40 a Day.” Chef Good Luck Ritual, based on the five THERE’S NO SHORTAGE OF spar- — T.E. John Simmons, also featured on Food Chinese elements and designed to en- kly light fixtures in Las Vegas, but The Network while making it to the dessert courage happiness, luck and prosper- Cosmopolitan features one of the big- VooDoo Nightclub round of “Chopped,” prepares crowd ity using customized massage techniques gest. A three-story chandelier houses 3700 Las Vegas Boulevard South favorite serrano sliders ($7.50), mango (105 minutes for $375). Travelers spend- a unique lounge experience on each Tel.: 702-252-7777 ribs ($9.50) and manchego mac ’n’ ing their day exploring the Strip ben- level: high-energy hot spot, sophisticat- Hours: 9 p.m.-3 a.m. cheese ($9.50). Wine is avail- efit from the Encore Foot Surrender (50 ed cocktail haven and inviting lounge. Web: riolasvegas.com/ FOR MORE SCENE, SEE able by bottle or glass, as are minutes for $180 or 80 minutes for $280). Conceived and designed by Rockwell VooDooNightclub fine brews and a list of signa- — S.E. Group, The Chandelier Bar combines ture cocktails. Cover: Sunday to WWD.com/eye. The Spa at Encore more than two million crystals within Thursday, $20; For lunch or late-night 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South one three-story space connected by a Friday and Saturday, men grub, the larger Paradise Tel.: 702-770-4772 glass spiral staircase. “We wanted The $30, women $20. Women Road location near the Las Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Chandelier Bar to become the iconic with Nevada ID, free. Vegas Convention Center stays open Web: wynnlasvegas.com/Activities center of this resort, so we designed until 2 a.m. most weekdays. it as a larger-than-life lounge and bar FARM FRESH The red and black decor is where people would feel that they were inspired by traditional Latin- The Spa at Encore inside a fantastical chandelier,” said IN A CITY OF OPULENT eateries, Spanish culture, featuring eclec- David Rockwell, founder and chief ex- Honey Salt offers farm-to-table casual tic artwork of flamenco danc- ecutive officer of Rockwell Group. fine dining with a comfortable-chic decor. ers and bulls. Co-owner Tabitha The most popular item served at The On the scene since October, Honey Salt Fiddyment recommends Firefly’s Chandelier is the Verbena cocktail, in- offers seasonally changing family-orient- apple-mango salad ($4.50) and its corporating tequila, yuzu sour, lemon ed recipes inspired by owner Elizabeth new ceviche recipe ($8.50). verbena leaves and ginger syrup, gar- Blau’s own kitchen and travels. — S.E. nished with a Szechuan button flower The space’s New England aesthetic that is meant to heighten flavor. includes a wall covered in photog- Firefly on Paradise The bar attracts people from near rapher Bill Milne’s images of farm- 3824 Paradise Road and far, including Las Vegas native ers’ markets in Cape Cod and Santa Tel.: 702-369-3971 Brandon Flowers of The Killers, who Barbara, Calif. Chandelier accents and Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. performed there solo in 2010. a long row of booths create a relaxing — TYLER EVERHART vibe, and waiters’ outfits don’t match, Firefly Westside 9560 West Sahara Avenue The Chandelier Bar Tel.: 702-834-3814 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South Hours: Monday to Thursday, Tel.: 702-698-7000 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 4 p.m. Up Side, Down Side Hours: Lower level, 24 hours daily; in- to 11 p.m.; Saturday,10 a.m. to 11 side space, 4 p.m. to 4 a.m. daily; upper p.m., Sunday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. level, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily Web: fireflylv.com Web: cosmopolitanlasvegas.com SPA-LICIOUS DO THAT VOODOO The Spa at Encore, which HAVE A DRINK MADE with panache earned five stars from Forbes, by the “level-3 flair bartenders” at stands out among the many VooDoo Nightclub, on the 51st floor Honey Salt pampering options in town. of Rio All-Suite Hotel & Casino’s Encore’s design by Todd-Avery Masquerade Tower. The club is famous Lenahan is a 61,000-square-foot for its circus-style bartending — in- thus avoiding the typical uniformed space boasting 37 treatment rooms, in- cluding mixologists doing tricks while restaurant look. cluding four double-occupancy suites concocting specialty drinks. Beverages run from fresh-squeezed and 14 naturally lit garden villas. Rich The bar’s most popular cocktail is juices to Honey Salt’s handcrafted cock- golden tones, remarkable tapestries the Witch Doctor ($30), which epitomiz- tails, plus a full selection of beer and and a warm color palette set the tone. es the New Orleans voodoo theme. The wine. Its famous buttermilk fried-chick- The atriumlike lobby offers a col- 32-ounce drink, meant to be shared by en sandwich ($13) is a lunch favorite, lection of sculpture, fabric and objets four, is delivered to the table with dry but dinner guests can try the caramel- d’art from destinations including Asia, ized sea scallops with cauli- Africa and Europe. The spa also fea- flower puree ($30). tures relaxation lounges, hot and cold VooDoo Nightclub Children can choose plunge pools, steam rooms and expe- from Cole’s Corner, the kid’s rience showers. Encore’s most stun- menu named for Blau’s son. Blau’s own favorite is grilled CORRECTION organic chicken with quinoa salad, avocado and dried There are 95 brands in the Tents at cranberry ($15). Project, including 25 new ones. Summer’s seasonal des- J Brand, Citizens of Humanity and sert is peach pie, and fall will 3x1 are in the Tents section of Project. bring apple pie served with This information was incorrect in a sea salt caramel ice cream. story on page 3 of WWD, Friday. — SOPHIE ELKUS

4 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS Apparel Uptick Bodes Well for Spring Color and texture in men’s and dresses in women’s are on retailers’ hit lists. By Jean E. Palmieri and Rachel Brown

THE APPAREL picture is brightening. think” its strategy on this category for into spring only because so few peo- After a lackluster summer in which b-t-s and third quarter. “We stop think- Blues are big ple have them. It is going to be a good retail sales were mediocre at best, lead- ing shorts at the end of the second in men’s wear. early fall item, and it is going to pick ing some major retailers to bring down quarter, but the customer is still look- Here, Moods up again for early spring.” overall projections for the year, custom- ing for them. We need to give that some of Norway, Still, dresses aren’t fading from the ers are slowly starting to return to the thought for next spring.” showing at spotlight. They are a staple at Edina, stores. Driven by the lure of updated In addition to shorts, Guion said Project. Minn.-based chain Hot Mama. “We took merchandise and the need to stock up Macy’s will look for “newness” at the a bigger investment this past spring in for back-to-school, retailers are finally Vegas shows, especially the next incar- dresses. I see us continuing that trend getting some traction on early fall. As a nation of camouflage prints — some- because that was very successful,” said result, their outlook for the remainder thing “beyond olive, into blues and other vice president Kristina Klockars. of the year — including the all-impor- colors” — as well as items that play into Dresses are big business as well tant holiday period — has improved “the whole floral thing. Animal prints in at Tommy Bahama, where Stephen marginally, and they’re hopeful the the right scale and coloration,” as well Cirona, senior vice president of wom- trend will continue as they finish up as other prints and patterns to update en’s sportswear, mentioned maxidress- their spring buying at the trade shows the men’s floor, will also be important es would be essential for spring. in Las Vegas this week. for spring, he believes. “Dresses are so important because “Climate-wise, it was an unfavor- Blue is also a key trend. “When [our customer] travels a lot, and she’s able first quarter — very cool — but men’s is in a blue cycle, we really go looking for very casual but very chic then a warm June and July,” said after it in a big way,” he said. Black pieces, and we are able to give her David Zant, senior vice president and white, dip dyes and hombres, dresses for the beach all the way up and general merchandise manager of striped wovens and the whole “pho- to casual evening. We have them in men’s wear for Belk. “Now it’s cooled to-realism” trend for graphic Ts and lightweight linen jersey, jacquards and down, which is helping us.” fleeces are also on the shopping list. stripes, and with beautiful, engineered He said the men’s division “made Wayne Drummond, senior vice prints,” he said. “She’s responding to plan” for spring, led by tailored clothing president of Hudson’s Bay Co.’s Lord the styling, the weight of the fabrics and furnishings rather than sportswear. & Taylor and The Bay divisions, said and the ease of care.” “The sportswear trend improved in growing the men’s business, particular- Retailers have noticed that prices are the second quarter, but it still wasn’t ly at L&T, is a priority. As reported, the creeping up. Jill Shea, cmo at 165-store where we wanted it to be.” Still, the pic- Manhattan flagship is in the final weeks Fargo, N.D.-based Vanity, said, “Our ture is improving. Zant said denim, par- of a massive overhaul and expansion of units are similar to last year, but our ticularly Levi’s, has been an early star for its men’s store, a project that should be purchase dollars are greater this year b-t-s. And non-denim twill pants in colors completed just after Labor Day. because of some of the different cat- like khaki and gray are also making in- “We continue to put a lot of focus at egories that are important. Woven shirt- roads with a double-digit jump in sales L&T on growing the men’s business,” he ing is more expensive than basic knits. “on a low percentage of inventory. This is said. “We see this happening by intro- That’s a bit part of our costing going up.” really a growing trend for us that is show- ducing ourselves to customers we don’t be good. “We’re getting response to fall Coinciding with elevated prices, ing a lot of upside as we go into fall.” have to-date while maintaining our clothing, sweaters, colorful corduroys Klockars sensed a return to quality. Belk’s young men’s business, both core loyal customers.” in new fits. I’m very pumped for fall.” She noted retailers are returning to branded and private label, is also a The spark to lure both of these In Vegas, he expects to finish his brands known for quality and moving strong performer so far. “And our ac- groups will be an expansion of the spring sportswear buy, search out fresh away from the cheaper lines they had tivewear business is good. This is a denim and modern contemporary denim pieces “and related items.” His brought in to drive down prices. business we weren’t in until a year ago, businesses, he said, categories the tailored clothing buy is virtually com- “We spent a couple of years buying but we landed Under Armour and Nike buying team will be looking for in plete, but he’s open to picking up a fast fashion, and there has been a huge and it’s very encouraging.” Vegas. The mix will continue to be at few things to “verify that our initial realization that the fast fashion doesn’t In Vegas, he said the Belk team the better and best price levels. As a foray was right on. I tend to be too im- last very long,” she said. “People are will “pick up on new trends and ven- result, the team will shop the Tents petuous at first,” he said. “I’m a better going back to wanting a bang for their dor opportunities” in sportswear. As at Project, the show’s elevated brand buyer later in the season.” buck and [are realizing] that if they a Southern-based retailer, Belk mer- platform. “That’s going to be bigger Patty Leto, senior vice president of spend a little more, they’re going to get chants will also look for brands and and more meaningful this time and merchandising for The Doneger Group, something they’re happier with.” trends that “exude a Southern sensi- will include some European brands, said that although men’s retailers “hit a Not all retailers are equally affected. bility. We continue to build that busi- which will help our elevated strategy,” lull” after Father’s Day, the past couple Heidi Hoelzer, vice president and gener- ness. Everywhere we’ve done that so Drummond said. Footwear is also in of weeks have been more encouraging. al merchandise manager of women’s at far has been successful.” both chains’ sights, and merchants will “Retailers are more positive and opti- Scoop NYC, hasn’t detected a pullback. The color explosion sweeping the shop at Project and FN Platform. mistic,” she said. Key items that are reso- “There’s a general uptick in pricing, but men’s market should be popular with Overall, Drummond said he re- nating with consumers include textured my customer hasn’t had resistance to the Southern customer, although Zant mains optimistic for fall. “We have a knits, varsity pieces, long denim in vari- it,” she said. “My designer business has said the company needs to keep it in lot of great initiatives, and we’re ex- ous washes and fits and non-denim pants. been strong, and the brands that are on check: “Color works great in tops, but ecuting them the way we want to.” Tom Julian, director of strategic the cusp of contemporary into designer we overshot it a bit in bottoms. We Steve Lawrence, chief merchan- business development for Doneger, — where the average price point is $600 didn’t have enough neutrals. So we dising officer for Stage Stores, said said for spring, “it’s time to change — have been really strong, too. The cus- need to find the proper balance.” he’s searching for a “weather-proof it up.” He said the keys for spring in tomer is willing to dish out for what she Durand Guion, vice president and assortment” in Vegas, pieces that can men’s will include graphic Ts; pat- feels is on trend or has the quality to men’s fashion director of Macy’s, said work whether spring is cool or warm, terned short-sleeve wovens; piped, back the price.” the company is “feeling good at the like long-sleeve wovens and bottoms trimmed or detailed sport coats; slim- Anxiety about pricing hasn’t been start of the back-to-school season.” that serve as a transition between long straight white denim, and printed an obstacle for customers at Kitson, ac- Last week, Macy’s posted a rare mis- pants and shorts. swim shorts. In women’s, printed cording to Tony Chinn, head buyer at step in the second quarter, reporting Bryan Reynolds, divisional mer- pants; solid or printed maxiskirts; the Southern California retailer, where a 0.8 percent drop in sales and earn- chandise manger of men’s at Scoop mixed media T-shirts; wovens with cut- streetwear has been a major sales driv- ings per share below expectations. NYC, said that besides wear-now out shoulders, and jackets with styles er. “This year, I have seen less hesitation Other retailers, including Wal-Mart, pieces like swimwear, shorts and sun- ranging from anoraks and field jackets on price,” he said. “The prices are going Nordstrom and Kohl’s, also cut earn- glasses, the stores are also having suc- to motocross. up, but also the pieces are getting better. ings outlooks for the year, even as ap- cess with “special novelty product” for In the women’s arena, dresses have If you have the right piece with the right parel sales were on the rebound. fall such as Moncler outerwear. “It’s been a dominant force in spring, but it’s quality, people will spend for it.” However, Macy’s is hopeful about the already checking,” he said. “I’m opti- unclear if that dominance will persist. The unpredictability of the econo- second half as accelerated receipts of mistic about fall, more so than spring. Roseann Morrison, fashion director my is only trumped by the unpredict- early fall merchandise and a heightened I think sweaters and woven shirts will at Doneger, said, “We are seeing more ability of the weather. Retailers are sense of urgency about holiday shopping be great.” In Vegas, Reynolds will look skirts. That has to have an impact on making strategic moves for spring to are expected to have a positive impact. for new brands and product with a the dress business. We’re not sure how cope with potentially volatile weather Guion said, “The camo thing has California vibe, graphic Ts, denim and that is going to play out yet. Maxis have conditions. Grant Leeds, head designer kicked in for early fall selling in men’s. “unique accessories.” been good in the skirt category.” at DownEast, a 50-unit chain based in It’s happening in tops and bottoms. And Wally Naymon, owner of Kilgore Maxiskirt sales are surging at Glik’s. Salt Lake City, stressed layering. denim continues to be explosive.” The Trout men’s store in Cleveland, said “Maxiskirts took the whole market by “When fall comes again, if she driving factor is fit, with men throughout traffic has been down over the summer, surprise,” said Jeff Glik, president and hasn’t gotten all her wear out of it, she the U.S. discovering and now embracing but tailored clothing has held its own. chief executive officer of the 60-unit can throw it back on,” he said. “It is the slimmer silhouette. “You need traffic to sell sports- Granite City, Ill.-based retailer. “It is also about lightweight jackets or cardi- Shorts continue to sell strongly, wear,” he said. Even so, he said he be- unbelievable, the numbers we are sell- gans that allow you to layer and wear Guion added, making the store “re- lieves the second half of the year will ing right now, and that will transfer until the weather warms up.” BCBGENERATION.COM t 35th Streett 35th 4th Floor New York, NY 10001 212.868.2770 BCBGeneration Jewelery Magic Booth Central #73134 For 2013. General Hall August Inquiries 19-21, Contact LLC 29 Wes Trebbianno

JEWELRY 6 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS Adventureland Safari influences and lush textures still reign.

G-Star Raw at Liberty.

Hare + Hart at ENK Vegas. PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION ASSISTANT: ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT:

Angie at WWDMAGIC. Lacoste L!ve at Project.

Claudia Nichole at Stitch.

Bailey 44’s suede and ponte sheath dress at ENK Vegas. Tarina Tarantino earrings at ENK Vegas; Alkemie cuffs; Sam Edelman shoes at FN Platform. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MARCOS DIAZ; MAKEUP BY ANNE KOLHHAGEN FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ AT SUSAN AT FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ ANNE KOLHHAGEN DIAZ; MAKEUP BY MARCOS GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY #rockinpf 8 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS Go Graphic Pops of color liven up the season.

Desigual at WWDMAGIC.

ShedRain at WWDMAGIC. N PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION ASSISTANT: ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY ARIELLE MILLER; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION N PRICE; PHOTO ASSISTANT:

Married to the Mob at Agenda.

Happy Socks at Project.

Paul Frank at WWDMAGIC. Gossip at ISAM/WWDMAGIC.

Rebecca Minkoff’s cotton tweed and jacquard sweatshirt, leather skirt, leather sandals and ponyskin bag at ENK Vegas. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MARCOS DIAZ; MAKEUP BY ANNE KOLHHAGEN FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ AT SUSA AT FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ ANNE KOLHHAGEN DIAZ; MAKEUP BY MARCOS GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: CECE YOST/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY

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bow ties and pocket squares are still performing very well. “In dress shirts, collar stories are really gaining mo- mentum with new collars like the tab, Making the Difference cut-away and tie bar all being offered in proportions for today’s silhouette.” Vendors mount varied strategies as they strive to set themselves apart. By Khanh T.L. Tran Sales are better, too. With the excep- tion of juniors, annual sales of acces- ACROSS MORE THAN a dozen trade We are known for our treatments, and which is participating at WWDMAGIC. sories, jeans and sportswear are either fairs opening today in Las Vegas, hun- our prices are low — we are trying to “It wasn’t our product — people liked holding steady or ticking up through dreds of apparel and accessories vendors bring down the market to a price that’s our product. There wasn’t money. This May 2013, according to The NPD Group are vying to prove to retailers why they affordable for everybody. With the econ- year, things are selling. People are opti- in Port Washington, N.Y. The market deserve their tightly managed dollars. omy the way that it is, when a woman is mistic. Holiday bookings are way ahead. research firm said sales of men’s and Stretching from WWDMAGIC and out shopping for a pair of jeans, if jeans I can say, for the first time in a while, women’s jeans priced $50 and higher FN Platform held at the Las Vegas are $288, she has to think about it. If it’s things are better.” were consistent, with growth of 0.5 per- Convention Center to newcomer Liberty $98 or $108, there’s no decision making, Ted Baker, showing at Project, is cent, at $2.05 billion, while women’s at the Sands Expo Center to Project, it’s an automatic purchase.” experiencing double-digit growth, ac- sportswear rose 2.6 percent to $102.06 Pool, MAGIC Men’s and ENK Vegas at Daniella Clarke, creator and found- cording to Patrick Heitkam, executive billion and men’s sportswear climbed Mandalay Bay, exhibitors are jockeying 1.8 percent to $49 billion. Accessories to show how they integrate points of dif- continued its growth with a 4 percent Filson is at Liberty. Alternative ferentiation with value and style. Apparel is increase to $9.15 billion. On the other “In an age of information overload at Project. hand, juniors sportswear dropped 2.7 and of all things being homogenized, percent to $12.26 billion. the sharper and more differentiated The U.S. Department of Commerce you can be with products that serve a reported that sales in clothing and purpose is a pretty successful formu- clothing accessories stores grew 3.6 la,” said Ryan Hurley, creative direc- percent to $114.7 billion in the six tor of Hurley, the $260 million action months ended in June. sports brand that’s owned by Nike, Sometimes, the strategy for growth who said the brand strives for that high involves an initial contraction. After value-to-quality ratio. shrinking Moods of Norway’s whole- Indeed, it appears that value has sale base 18 months ago to focus been the buzzword of the decade, per- on better specialty stores, George haps to the chagrin of the apparel indus- Santacroce, ceo of its international try. In a recent survey conducted by mar- business, introduced footwear to ket research firm WSL Strategic Retail, Nordstrom last spring. Its collection 69 percent of shoppers have not in- for next spring is the first created creased spending in categories that they with Keanan Duffty, who’s worked

cut back during the Great Recession of with Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. and Ben 2009. Many are also sticking to the mon- Sherman, as a global design consul- ey-saving tactics they adopted during the tant. Now the brand aims to grow its difficult economy, WSL said. As a result, presence in department stores and makers and merchants must figure out specialty retailers, as well as expand how to grow sales in light of what has be- to Russia and Asia next year. Moods of

come the new normal. Norway is showing at Project. “People are so stuck in the mind- Footwear designer Calleen Cordero, set of being in a recession [that] it’s showing at ENK Vegas, added, “The hard for them to get out of that,” said er of Frankie B., also at ENK Vegas, vice president of wholesale and li- business is changing, [so] I’ve decided Judy Dermer, national sales manager said the past year has been “focused censing. “We have an amazing one-two to make the change of not selling to at Miracle Body Jeans, which is show- on growing our global and domes- punch with retail, and we are doing re- high-end department stores, but instead ing at Stitch. “There are signs every- tic distribution.·· Strong relationships ally well with e-commerce. sell to designer boutiques. People want where that things are definitely better. with major department stores like “Men are embracing new fit and sil- something that is new but don’t want to The [stock] market is up. The real es- Bloomingdale’s and opening an in- houette and color and detail, people spend their money on something frivo- tate market has improved drastically. store shop with Kitson has been and are really responding to the value and lous. I also do custom shoes so my prod- There are signs that money is out there will continue to be key for us.” the authenticity of the brand and em- uct looks different for every store.” but people are hesitant to spend it.” Other growing fashion brands in- bracing wearing color and layering Innovation is key. At Agenda, Hurley, Some designers like the challenge clude Moods of Norway, which is whole- things in interesting ways.” based in Costa Mesa, Calif., is high- of working in such an environment saling its men’s line at Project. It has Stores, he said, are looking for lighting new $150 men’s boardshorts and as a result have thrived. Sam more than doubled its U.S. business “great cuts and attention to detail. We in its Phantom Block Party Fuse se- Ku, creative director at AG Adriano this year from last year. Field Scout, the have a great mix of edgy and tradition- ries, which has a perforated Neoprene Goldschmied in South Gate, Calif., said Los Angeles men’s line that is exhibit- al pieces. It allows men to wear it in waistband that feels like a second skin sales in “2013 will end up being double ing its American-made goods at Liberty, their own way and create great style.” on surfers. It’s also incorporating tech- digits over 2012.” Looking ahead, he projected that sales for spring will be As for spring trends, Ted Baker is nology from parent company Nike into expected that a revamped tops line 30 percent higher than last year. Filson, showing updated classics along with a women’s activewear line called Beach spearheaded by new design director the outdoor outfitter from Seattle that’s some edgier pieces. Style cues come Active that launched for fall, as well as Mark Wiesmayr for next spring will from the Orient Express, like geometric a $50 women’s thong sandal that mimics fuel higher growth through 2014. patterns inspired by Turkish mosaic tiles walking on bare feet. “You don’t want your population and tropical motifs with flashes of vibrant Rozae Nichols, designer at Clover spending so recklessly; you want them Holiday bookings are colors such as cobalt and mustard. Canyon (ENK Vegas), is expanding the to make considered purchases,” said Michael Ardelean, merchandiser collection assortment with full-fashion Ku, who is one of the denim anchors at for Alternative Apparel, showing at knitted styles, innovations with print- Project. “It makes brands and design- way ahead. I can say, Project, said this season the company ing techniques, and is expanding into ers be on their game as well. If we know created six unique fabrics and 22 styles swim for spring. there’s less spending on clothing, we for the first time in a using one single proprietary organic Adrienne Lofton Shaw, Dockers’ chief have to be sharper on our designs.” yarn. “By increasing our commitment to marketing officer, said male consumers Jeff Abrams designer and chief exec- while, things quality and sustainability, we aim to en- are looking for trend-right apparel more utive officer of Rails Clothing, an ENK hance our relationships with our core than ever, and for the first time are really Vegas vendor, said over the course of fans, and make some new ones. Our paying attention to the details. 2013, business has steadily increased, are better. growth will come from our new catego- “Innovation, newness and versatile particularly entering the fall season. ries like woven tops and bottoms, but style is a must in this ever-changing “Consumers are buying more con- — GLORIA BRANDES, will always be anchored in our heroes: retail landscape,” she said. “Two key sistently than they were last year, even BB DAKOTA the hoodie and the T.” offerings at Project from the Dockers while keeping a value-conscious men- Mitchell Lechner, president of the brand will be our FlyWeight and Alpha tality. We are providing high-quality dress furnishings division at Phillips- Collection, which launches this fall. products, and there is always a strong also showing at Liberty, has recorded Van Heusen, which is showing multiple It’s a head-to-toe assortment created market for premium goods, especially sales growth of 25 percent every year brands and categories at MRKET, noted for the Millennial consumer and in- if they are priced competitively in the for the past three years. For young con- color was a driving force in several cat- spired by our popular Alpha Khaki high-end market. The outlook for the temporary brand BB Dakota, which has egories, with blues leading the way in pants introduced in 2011. In addition next six months can be very strong. It a knack for feminizing trends such as dress furnishings, “from chambray and to adding tops to complete the look, is really on manufacturers to deliver Nineties nostalgia and steampunk, re- denim-inspired to lagoon blues, turqs we’ll introduce two new fits — the good product. Consumers are there.” orders are showing at least a 20 percent and teals. Prints are gaining traction Skinny Tapered and the Standard Michael Scott, president of sales surge from last year. and provide added dimension in neck- Tapered — to the already existing Slim at Driftwood Jeans, said that at ENK “Last year, reorders just weren’t wear, shirtings and underwear.” Tapered fit in the Alpha Khakis line. Vegas, “We’ve developed a museum- happening,” said Gloria·· Brandes, ceo The top shape in neckwear is hover- “FlyWeight is our seasonal offering type small capsule of embroideries. of Costa Mesa, Calif.-based BB Dakota, ing around three inches, he said, while {Continued on page 12} Super stretchjeansmadewithLYCRA what movesyoumake please contact RitaRatskoff atrita HER SECRET... LYCRA . Formoreinformation onLYCRA . ratskoff@INVISTA ® dualFX ® fabric keep their shape . com ® dualFX . ® dualFX ® fabric technology , nomatter ,

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of gray and a soft palette of pastels and neutral pieces. Prints include Making the Difference animal, tie-dye-inspired and marble, {Continued from page 10} Rachel Evans, owner and head de- while silhouettes include the zipper intended to offer stylish choices for signer for Mink Pink, and designer skinny, high-waisted skinny, capri and the warm-weather months and mar- Chan Luu, both showing at ENK Vegas, cropped biker styles. Black Orchid will kets. These are lightweight, are also going tribal/ethnic. introduce denim button-down shirts breathable cotton products Evans said key spring in various washes and studded embel- offered in our core and trends include “Mayan and lishment, outerwear options including popular styles.” Aztec, techno-hippie, teen denim jackets and leather quilted moto It’s also important for spirit Nineties grunge and jackets. designers to provide exclu- Cali-cool — kimonos and QLaurel Berman, designer and found- sives, whether it’s a unique playsuits, very lifestyle and er of Black Halo, said, “For spring, print or an item available festival dressing. Also mix- we are expanding the Black Halo Eve only at a certain store. and-match denims, slashed evening wear collection to include pop Among the women’s denim pinafores and up- colors, new textures and fabrics.” She’s trends are exotic looks, dated boyfriend shapes.” bringing “interesting bottom weight bright colors and tribal or Luu noted, “I travel ex- fabrics with various textures offered ethnic themes. tensively for inspirational in two-piece dressing, plus lots of new Los Angeles’ Kenny ideas, and they are mostly softer bodies — both categories are Clothes is working light- related to culture and art new to Black Halo. weight fabrics and vi- history. My last trip was QGorjana Reidel, founder of Gorjana brant prints into a to Santa Fe, New Mexico, & Griffin accessories, is launching a siesta theme. “Even visiting Georgia O’ Web site in conjunction with its fall though I cut and sew Keeffe’s world at Ghost collection launch today. everything in my fac- Ranch, which really in- “The accessories market is thriv- tory in downtown [Los spired me to design a ing, [with] healthy growth across the Angeles], I design all new collection around entire industry, particularly in men’s my fabrics that are Dittos is at Native American accessories,” she said. The brand also BB Dakota made in Mexico City ENK Vegas. Indians. My latest introduced a men’s line, Griffin, last is at or Guatemala. You collection will fall. “The consumer is looking for WWDMAGIC. don’t see my prints have a Native value, not in the traditional sense in the mass market,” American of pieces being inexpensive, but said designer Lindsay flair.” value in knowing and feeling Sternberg, who is taking Kenny Clothes Also at ENK Vegas: that a brand is delivering more to Capsule. Moreover, she acknowl- Q Calvin Rucker’s theme than just a product.” edged that creating an exclusive item for spring is “ballerina Key trends for both col- benefits both the store and the consum- military,” said its found- lections are about “going er. “It’s special to know that if you’re ers and designers, West — for Gorjana, that buying something from a specific re- Caroline Calvin and translates into flow- tailer you love, you know you’re not Joie Rucker. “The ers, landscapes and going to see it everywhere.” concept continues muted tones while Designer Trina Turk said, “We see our casual couture incorporating pat- a continuing move toward feminine look of “refined terns and textures casual, that is ‘wear now,’ and appro- with the rough,” and into the pieces. For priately priced.” At ENK Vegas, she’s inspires new designs Griffin, it’s into more offering a strong print presentation in alternative bottoms, grit and found objects. that ranges from photographic to geo- tops, dresses and denim If you were travel- metric to hand-drawn. The palette is innovations. ing from Colorado to egories across the collections.” sun-bleached, and among the offerings Q Denim is a constant California, all the el- To stay in business, apparel brands are a “washed Tencel chambray group, trend, and Black Orchid ements of inspiration must adapt to changing times and mar- jumpsuits, rompers, matched total look designer Julien Jarmoune from nature to color is kets. Liberty vendor Filson, 116 years sets, a fresh dress selection, discreet looks to capitalize on it what you will see in- after its founding, introduced a new touches of skin through sheer fabrics, with traditional blue corporated in all cat- cut dubbed the Seattle fit that falls cutouts, cropped lengths in tops and jeans as well as a variety slightly closer to the body with a higher sweater and bralette tops.” of bold colors, shades Kenny Clothes is armhole. The Seattle fit complements showing at Capsule. the roomier Alaska fit that hunters and fishermen prefer

for layering when outdoors. KIM FRIDAY STYLED BY EMMIE MARTIN; ASSISTANT: FASHION GROFT; KATHERINE PHOTO ASSISTANT: FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ; KOHLHAGEN The response for products such as a $375 cotton scout jacket with waterproof soy wax coating in the Seattle fit has been positive. “We believe that [Seattle fit] is going to increase our apparel business in specialty stores,” said Filson ceo Alan Kirk, noting that its special- ty retailers include Union Made, Steven Alan and American Rag Cie. In the end, designers face the task of whipping up a piece that will move a shop- per to spend. Ryan Hartman, Field Scout’s creative direc- tor, believes it’ll be a $399 moto-inspired vest that mixes different fabrics such as lightweight shirting for the lining, twill on the shell and leather to trim the shoulder, back yokes and welt pockets. “People are still bargain- hunting for basics for every- day wear,” said Hartman, who is also showing at Liberty. “People still want to be inspired with their pur- chases. They want something that will open their wallet.” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM TYLER EVERHART, ARIEL SAYRE AND

MARCY MEDINA ANNE MAKEUP BY BEAUTY; ARTMIX JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ AT THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JENIA IEROKHINA/MAJOR; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY

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A few fresh faces and some Ones to Watch veterans to check out at the shows. Designer: CHRISTINE ALCALAY mixed with silk and cotton. Alcalay also and $752 at retail, while dresses sell Founded: 2011 drew wildflowers that were translated from $198 to $253. With the upgrade Showing At: Capsule into a black and white print, as well as in designs and pricing, AS by DF has Backstory: After learning how to sew a watercolor version. Standout pieces opened 45 new retail doors, including at the age of three, Vietnamese-born include a cotton tank with pleated more trendy boutiques like Laurie Christine Alcalay shadowed her moth- detail under the bust and a silk Solet in St. Louis. er in garment factories throughout georgette layering shell, both retail- For Spring: Focil steered her style com- New York. She studied at New York’s ing for $209. pass to Brazil for body-hugging sil- High School for Fashion Industries The line tops out at $3,200 retail houettes and a tropical palette. A sig- and then Parsons The New School for for a silk gown enhanced by a lace nature look contrasts a leather biker Design, where she began interning collar, drop waist and pleated chiffon jacket dyed vivid blue with a white pen- for Christian Lacroix. In fall 2011, she layered skirt. Wildfox Denim cil skirt enhanced by coral-pink stripes. launched her namesake line, whose an- “I’ve always had imagery while lis- She put a new spin on leather with bas- nual sales now total more than tening to [Simone’s] song,” she swimwear and a shoe collaboration ket weaves, perforations and buttery $100,000. Besides said. “I imagine soft prints, with Jeffrey Campbell. It is now launch- suede. She also borrowed scuba fabric her own boutique sheer fabrics, light silks [and] ing denim under the creative direction from the beach culture. called Kiwi, located in playful cottons in billowy of Michelle Siwy, who left her namesake “It was so much fun to work [with] Brooklyn’s Park Slope shapes that echo the way the jeans brand this year after a financial Neoprene,” Focil said. “It allows neighborhood, her line is wind blows against a body.” disagreement with the owners of Siwy. for some amazing structured sold in specialty stores — TYLER EVERHART Wildfox Denim retails between pieces and I was able to create including Mahna $186 and $258 at retailers includ- silhouettes that form to the body Mahna in Tokyo; The Line: WILDFOX DENIM ing Neiman Marcus, Selfridges, perfectly, and also exude that Store in Jeddah, Founded: Main collection: Harvey Nichols and Nordstrom, as modern edge that the AS by DF Saudi Arabia, and 2007; Denim label: 2013 well as specialty stores like E Street woman is all about.” Angela’s in Rye, N.Y. Showing At: ENK Vegas Denim and Planet Blue. “I have al- — KHANH T.L. TRAN For Spring: “Wild Backstory: Childhood ways admired Michelle’s design as the Wind,” a friends Emily Faulstich and process,” said Wildfox Couture Line: C&C CALIFORNIA love song by Nina Kimberley Gordon started chief executive officer Jimmy Founded: 2003; active- Simone, inspired Wildfox Couture as a con- Sommers. “Without question, wear and leggings the spring collec- temporary knit brand in I looked to her immediately launching in 2013 tion infused with 2007. Since its inception, when it was time to launch Showing at: ENK Vegas French lace that’s the Los Angeles-based our bottoms program.” Backstory: C&C company has extended For Spring: Siwy drew inspira- California is such a Christine Alcalay into jewelry, intimates, tion from the breezy simplic- believer in the easy- ity of island life, the key theme breezy West Coast lifestyle at work being “shipwrecked.” The that it’s branching into ac- collection features denim that is, tivewear with C&C Sport in her words, “beaten, tattered, and introducing leggings ripped and torn as if [it] had trav- as part of C&C California eled around the world.” by Stephanie. There are 14 styles of shorts, in- The two new groupings cluding a pair in pastel pink with point to the path that par- white seams and tiny white pom- ent company Perry Ellis poms bordering the hem. Signature International is taking for pieces include a lightly washed denim growth. While Perry Ellis jumpsuit with a gold zipper running doesn’t disclose revenues down the chest and pastel tie-dyed for C&C, it said sales for its skinny jeans. She also evoked her fa- women’s sportswear busi- vorite fashion era, the late Seventies. ness, which includes C&C, “The cuts of the dresses, the way Laundry by Shelli Segal and

halter tops fit, the glamour of it all Rafaella, fell 9.3 percent to KIM FRIDAY STYLED BY EMMIE MARTIN; ASSISTANT: FASHION GROFT; KATHERINE PHOTO ASSISTANT: FOR CHANEL BEAUTÉ; KOHLHAGEN speaks to me,” she said. “There is a nos- $149.1 million in its fiscal talgic vibe in everything I design.” year ended Feb. 2 from a year ago. Cynthia Erland, vice — ARIEL SAYRE C&C president of marketing for California Line: AS BY DF the company’s contemporary Founded: 2013 brands, said C&C Sport and Showing At: ENK Vegas C&C California by Stephanie are Backstory: Five years after projected to make up 25 percent of launching a namesake young sales for the C&C brand. contemporary line designed For Spring: Tapping into the burgeon- by Denise Focil and branch- ing activewear market, C&C Sport ing into knits with another melds function with fun and feminin- brand called Astars, Italy’s ity for women who like to run, train Alpinestars is relaunch- and do yoga. Vapor images, pho- ing Alpinestars by Denise torealism and butterflies tinted Focil as a better contem- bright colors elevate the look porary label known as of color-blocked running tights, AS by DF for fall. racer-back bras and fleece pull- “The brand overs with oversize hoods. reached a point All made in California, where I needed to the activewear retails from take the next step $50 to $130. C&C California and evolve,” Focil by Stephanie is designed said. “The customer by Stephanie Feldenkreis, had really grown up. the daughter of the com- She’s also more sophis- pany’s chairman. In tribute ticated. She needed bet- to her hometown of Miami, ter quality garments.” Feldenkreis infused her leg- In line with the im- gings with vibrant hues such proved quality are high- as flamingo pink, in addition er prices — 15 percent to images of palm trees and higher, to be exact. snake prints. She also intro- Leather jackets, which duced flirty scoopneck dresses. represent the line’s Retailing from $98 to $118, forté, range between $629 the line has been picked up by Bloomingdale’s and Lord & Taylor. AS by DF

— K.T.L.T. ANNE MAKEUP BY BEAUTY; ARTMIX JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ AT THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JENIA IEROKHINA/MAJOR; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 19, 2013 15 WWD.COM

WyldeHart Line: AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED fringe, wide-leg pants, color- kids’ sportswear, intimates, eyewear and Founded: 2000, with a revamped tops line “We’ve had tops before to blocked rompers and tie-dyed more. That’s just the start for the lat- launching for spring 2014 varying degrees of success,” tank tops are also in the spring est incarnation of the brand, which is Showing At: Project Wiesmayr said. “We’re working assortment. aimed at midtier department stores. Backstory: Mark Wiesmayr, a veteran of as a brand to have a voice and “Ninety-nine percent of all “We’re taking the opportunity to in- Levi’s, Sass & Bide and Ksubi, is kicking be an elevated collection.” our product in the sportswear troduce our vision for Baby Phat to the off his tenure as AG’s recently appoint- — K.T.L.T. area is casual and denim-friendly,” market very seriously. Our main goal is ed design director with a revamp of the said Tsabag. He is targeting retailers giving the brand the attention and dedi- denim giant’s tops line. Besides its cur- Brand: WYLDEHART such as Von Maur, Nordstrom, Macy’s, cation that it deserves,” said creative rent customers, AG hopes to attract new Founded: 2013 Hudson’s Bay, Urban Outfitters and The director Elif Ayden Dunlay. ones who might have been shopping for Showing At: WWDMAGIC Buckle with WyldeHart. The brand’s re- For Spring: The inspiration for the spring Acne, Nudie Jeans, A.P.C., Rag & Bone or Backstory: After decades in tail prices range primarily from $20 to collection comes from Baby Phat’s cat Vince. While the tops business presently the garment industry, Moshe $60, and it is aimed at 15- to 25-year-old logo. Ayden Dunlay describes the Baby accounts for less than 10 percent of the Tsabag, who sold $100 mil- shoppers. Befitting its name, Tsabag de- Phat cat as multifaceted. She can be brand’s sales, Wiesmayr said the goal is lion junior brand Hot Kiss scribed the core WyldeHart customer as playful, cuddly, lazy, curious and wild, to grow that share to as much as 25 per- to Bluestar Alliance in 2008 a free spirit who “has her own mind but is always confident and indepen- cent by the end of 2014. AG’s total sales for an estimated $20 million, and her own look, and she’s not dent. The clothes certainly aren’t timid. are estimated at more than $100 million. knows a thing or two about concerned necessarily with The creative director pointed out that For Spring: Working under the theme of making clothing. Today, he what’s going on elsewhere. they feature metal cat logos, metal chain “things that get lost in the wind,” AG’s believes a successful apparel She wants to be special.” details, studs, rhinestones, embroider- 22-person design team for the men’s brand has to be based — RACHEL BROWN ies, animal-skin prints and plenty and women’s tops and bottoms di- upon bringing fresh of shine from metallic accents. The visions joined efforts for the first fashion to customers as Brand: BABY PHAT design elements are carried across time to share fabrics, prints and quickly as possible. Founded: 1998; Relaunching: 2013 swimwear, shoes and sportswear. palettes. Dandelions, feathers That’s where WyldeHart comes Creative Director: Elif Ayden Dunlay Key items include novelty- and bird’s nests pervade the print in. “I’m in the fast-fashion world Showing At: WWDMAGIC trimmed jeans, jumpsuits, romp- array and the colors suggest a and trying to be first to market,” Backstory: Baby Phat is back. In the ers, body-conscious dresses and softness in faded mauve, chambray explained Tsabag. Associated Aughts, the urban brand made famous platform and wedge shoes. blue, light gray and pale green. with design studios in Los by its fearless leader and fabulous face “We don’t want to define Among the 100-plus styles re- Angeles, London and New York, Kimora Lee Simmons felt like it was our Baby Phat customer tailing from $55 to $225 in the WyldeHart aims to offer styles everywhere. Then, it wasn’t. Baby Phat with one specific ethnicity, women’s tops business are a that capture trends emerging split from Simmons in 2010 and a for- budget, look or style,” she long-sleeve silk T-shirt con- across the globe. The brand will mer licensee, BP Clothing LLC, went said, adding, “We want to trasted with linen jersey on introduce new merchandise bankrupt in 2011. bring that cat out of every the sleeves and bottom band, every month. “You can’t have But Baby Phat is being born woman, as we believe we a polka-dot chambray bomber a brand sitting on the shelf for again under the watchful eye of all have one inside, and, and an ivory and tan cotton too long,” said Tsabag. Anthony L&S LLC, a long-time yes, the people who knew bouclé zip-up cardigan that For Spring: WyldeHart dabbled Baby Phat athletic footwear li- and shopped Baby Phat can double as a minidress. in a few items for holiday but is censee that has formed Baby Phat when it was created will Dresses such as a long teal launching in earnest for spring. Holdings Inc. and acquired the recognize the same DNA in silk sheath with side slits Kimono pieces and printed bot- rights to the Baby Phat brand our new styles.” round out spring’s lineup. toms have been working well so from Kellwood Co. The brand — R.B. far, and will remain in the line. now extends across athletic AG Adriano Goldschmied Embroidered tops, sweatshirts with and dress shoes, women’s and Baby Phat

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