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heaved a sigh of relief when the heat, we slurped their signature 5 minutes of the gates sliding open, stayed off the list of durian chendol (which also comes in the restaurant was full. The concept is H1N1 ‘no-go’ countries; as cempedak and coconut syrup) before simple: you cook the sticks of food the Goodenough gang had making our way into the emporium steamboat-style in the heady sauce made planned this makan trip since and left with two bags each of local with spicy peanut and desiccated coconut our expedition to Fraser’s hill. We were goodies. To head off the post-prandial fried in secret spices. Sedap! wellI aware that Meleka (or ) was somnolence, Rampant brought us to We then waddled over to Harper’s declared a World Heritage Site in July the Calanthe Art café (11 Jalan Hang Restaurant and Lounge (2, 4 Lorong 2008 by UNESCO but the focus of this Kasturi) to sample the 13 varieties of Hang Jebat) by the river and watched trip was to ‘inhale’ food. coffee from all over Malaysia. I settled the sun go down over the Eye on We were met at the Ayer Keroh toll for coffee from my mother’s home- Malaysia near the Melaka Marina. The booth by SW who directed us to his state of Selangor, which was dark and night market along Jonker Street started parent’s home for lunch and were greeted rich: roasted Arabica beans mixed with to draw crowds and we meandered by chicken rice balls from Kedai margarine and sugar. through stalls selling a variety of curios Chung Wah (18 Jalan Hang Jebat); SW Being a true Singaporean, we rushed and trinkets. Being filial children, we had specially made a trip into town early off to queue for dinner at 4.45pm! The picked up some frozen or nee (Teochew in the morning and queued an hour to Restoran Capitol Satay Celup (41 Lorong yam pudding) from Teo Soon Loong buy them. Bukit Cina) serves the best satay celup Chan (55 Jalan Hang Kasturi) for Having had our fill, we then drove in my humble opinion. It seats about 15 the parents. Tired from a long day of to Malacca icon, Tan Kim Hock Product tables of varying sizes and opens at 5pm ingesting, we made our way back to Centre, to stock up. To cool down from – we were second in queue and within Makhota hotel. SW provided keropok

28 sma News august 2009 TRAVELOGUE

Chicken rice balls Durian Chendol Satay Celup Ondeh-Ondeh

Nonya Zhang Pulut Taitai Kueh kochi, rempah udang Ang ku kueh

Chendol Homemade ingredients Ayam buah keluak Asam

from Kuantan and kacang sempalit appetisers. This was washed down with home. Thus ended 30-hours of food (roasted groundnuts) to accompany in soya bean milk and then ‘inhalation’. prosecco and other grape derivatives followed by asam laksa and ayam buah Next stop along the Straits while we watched Michael Jackson keluak. Lunch was ended off with a very Settlements: Penang ... tribute videos on TV, chatted and lemak (creamy) chendol. eventually fell asleep. Barely able to move after that, We unwillingly crawled out of bed the we were quite glad to have to walk Melaka Must-Eats next morning and headed for the buffet some distance back to the car. The Kedai Kopi Chung Wah breakfast. I showed unusual restraint by unique and ornate architecture of the 18 Jalan Hang Jebat not consuming too much in anticipation traditional Peranakan rooftops captured Calanthe Art Cafe of lunch which was to be in two hours. my attention and it made a change 11 Jalan Hang Kasturi We checked-out of the hotel and made from photographing food. our way to the Peranakan restaurant We continued with part deux Restoran Capitol Satay Celup 41 Lorong Bukit Cina recommended by SW’s parents: Nancy’s of lunch with homemade popiah Kitchen (Jalan Hang Lekir, off Jalan courtesty of SW’s mum. Despite the Harper's Restaurant and Lounge Tun Tan Cheng Lock). The restaurant is very fresh and fragrant ingredients, 2, 4 Lorong Hang Jebat located in a two-storey shophouse adorned I could only manage a single popiah Teo Soon Loong Chan with a traditional wooden nameplate and unfortunately . Their neighbour 55 Jalan Hang Kasturi gold letterings topped with a red brocade popped by with some durian pancakes Nancy's Kitchen ribbon. We were ushered to the second and these were also eagerly devoured. Jalan Hang Lekir, off Jalan Tan Cheng Lock floor air-conditioned room and food To end our ‘gastronomic hedonism’, we started appearing. We were served nonya proceeded to the sea-fronting Portugese zhang pulut taitai, kueh kochi + rempah Martin aspires to be a food and travel photographer , settlement for a cold, fresh young but is ‘bonded’ to serve for many years to come... udang, ang ku kueh and onde-onde for coconut in preparation for the drive

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