Fashion Germany
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FASHION GERMANY MARTINA RINK FASHION GERMANY PRESTEL/ MUNICH . LONDON . NEW YORK Introduction · Martina Rink 8 Tomas Maier 12 Marko Matysik 14 Yasmin Heinz 18 Felix Lammers 20 Torsten Neeland 22 Angelica Blechschmidt 24 Susanne Tide-Frater 26 Jasmin Khezri 28 Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser 30 Olaf Hajek 32 Dirk Schönberger 34 Vanessa von Bismarck 35 Julia von Boehm 36 Kai Margrander 40 Jina Khayyer 42 Mumi Haiati 43 Kristian Schuller 44 Donald Schneider 48 Deycke Heidorn 52 Anna Bauer 54 Alex Wiederin 56 Silke Werzinger 60 Leyla Piedayesh 62 Jen Gilpin 64 Magomed Dovjenko 68 Julia Freitag 69 Schohaja 70 Rike Döpp 74 Thomas BenTz AND Oliver Lühr 75 Christoph Amend 76 Mirko Borsche 78 Boris Bidjan Saberi 82 Damir Doma 82 CONTENTS Michael Sontag 83 Vladimir Karaleev 83 Raoul Keil 84 Saskia Diez 86 René Storck 87 Armin Morbach 88 Toni Garrn 92 Heidi Klum/Thomas Hayo 93 Annette and Daniela Felder 94 Alexandra von Rehlingen and Andrea Schoeller 96 Stefan Eckert 97 Susanne Oberbeck 98 Constantin Bjerke 100 Sascha Breuer 102 Philipp Plein 104 Andreas Ortner 106 Bettina Harst 108 Wolfgang Joop 110 Kera Till 112 Papis Loveday 113 Claudia Skoda 114 Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl 116 Esma Annemon Dil 118 Didi Ilse 119 Sandra Bauknecht 120 Alexx and Anton 122 Marcus Kurz 126 Burak Uyan 128 Corinna Springer 130 Kai Kühne 131 Marie Schuller 132 Vincent Peters 134 Andrea Karg 136 Louisa von Minckwitz 138 André Borchers 139 Petra van Bremen 140 Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof 142 Marco Stein 143 Johannes Huebl 144 Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul 146 Petra Bohne 148 Nini Gollong 149 Tatjana Patitz 150 Natalie Acatrini 151 Gladys Perint Palmer 152 Klaus Stockhausen 153 Dawid Tomaszewski 154 Dorothee Schumacher 156 Feride Uslu 158 Bernhard Willhelm 160 Tillmann Lauterbach 162 Karl Anton Koenigs 164 Diane Kruger 166 Sascha Lilic 167 Esther Haase 168 Veruschka 169 F. C. Gundlach 170 Bent Angelo Jensen 172 Tom Rebl 174 Markus Lupfer 176 Karla Otto 178 Jil Sander 181 Anita Tillmann 182 Thomas Steinbrück 183 Jürgen Geßler 184 Markus Mahren 186 Peter Lindbergh 190 Appendix Biographies 197 Translation 205 Picture credits 206 AcknowledgEments 207 Making of “Hello Martina, call me back when you have time!” I was warmly welcomed thanks to Andrew Hansen, It was Peter Lindbergh’s pleasant voice with its Rhine- and with whom I share a passion for creating books. land accent on my voicemail – I would never have As a sign of confi dence, I was allowed to choose my thought that a photographic legend could be so warm own designer and art director: Paul Sloman, who had and uncomplicated. already successfully designed my fi rst book. I see Paul and his talent as an essential ingredient for creating A book project is like a family. You live and work successful books. The person who consistently arouses together, the project develops and we develop with it. my amazement and admiration is Prestel’s programme Fashion Germany is an illustrated volume with many manager Claudia Stäuble, the greatest organizational highs and occasional lows. In the course of this project talent I have ever known. I have met some wonderful people, many of whom, with their contributions, have become part of this Magic pictures book: a selection of the most fascinating and ground- The one very particular image by Andreas Ortner. breaking fashion personalities that Germany has to offer, Once seen, it was immediately clear: that’s it, that’s nationally and internationally. Along with established the cover! For months we couldn’t see enough of this big names in the fashion world, this book features photo, and the publishers completely agree. What is so young talents from all areas of fashion. What they all special about this image is that one could interpret it have in common is the pursuit of new expression, in so many ways: it fi ts with Germany, the blonde woman mastery and perfection. could be any woman who embodies us nationally and internationally. To top it all off is the closing section There are many more people whom I would have liked with photos by Peter Lindbergh; Anna Bauer, who uses to introduce, but who for various reasons could not Polaroids to record exceptional moments of the “who’s participate – among them high-profi le personalities like who” in the industry; and highly talented photographers the legendary Helmut Newton, who sadly died in 2004. such as Felix Lammers, Vincent Peter and many others. All other creative minds will know that these lines are When I receive emails from my guest authors and open meant for them! the attached images, I get a tingling sensation as if I Milestones were opening Christmas presents. It was thanks to Markus Mahren that I was able to Challenge meet Peter Lindbergh in Berlin – a unique experience My goal is to see German fashion and the people that still fi lls me with gratitude today. Adrian J. Margelist behind it from a different perspective – all the suc- and I met at the MCM Pop-Up Store opening event in cessful designers, photographers, hair and make-up Munich, thanks to Chris Häberlein, and we clicked artists, models, PR agents, buyers, bookers, art straightaway. I see books as “must-have” objects – the directors, creative directors, illustrators and other same goes for MCM Accessories. This is exactly what outstanding personalities who are active worldwide, connects us and epitomizes this very special cooperation on both sides of the footlights. Germany is often between us all. underestimated with respect to fashion. There are The star make-up artist Yasmin Heinz has told me some incredibly talented people in this country who the naked truth at diffi cult moments, and a pure and are internationally successful and work all year round authentic friendship has developed between us as a at the top of their profession without receiving much result of her honesty. public attention. I would like to help free Germany from its unassuming undercover image and reveal the large People like Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser pool of individual creativity that exists. We are recog- already believed in me without reservation when I was nized for qualities such as punctuality, precision, accu- involved in an earlier project, a book about Isabella racy. What is becoming increasingly clear is our ability Blow. Since then they have supported me and allowed to successfully take on leading roles. me to present my works in a very special context, the German companies, it is said, are not fashion-friendly. cult institution THE CORNER in Berlin. There are exceptions. The fl agship corporation Mercedes- Prestel also provides an ideal environment for me. It Benz offers a spectacular catwalk to German and is an honour to work with this publisher, where every- international stars and designers in Berlin, and sends thing is just right, particularly the team, into which out invitations worldwide to shows in Miami, Istanbul, MARTINA RINK/ INTRODUCTION Stockholm and New York. People who are on the same wavelength meet, visions are shared and something magical and new comes into being. This process must not stop; our talents are being cultivated abroad, and perhaps soon we will be able to welcome them back to Germany. About All I can do is books. Books that don’t sit on the shelf gathering dust but can be admired in beautiful public places or on a private coffee table. Books that trigger emotions thanks to the successful teamwork of all who participate. I make books with soul, with quite individual ingredients. When I begin a book, I already see it in my mind’s eye as a fi nished object. I don’t deviate much from this image. I want to make books with staying power. Books that accompany and shape people. I see myself as a sort of conductor, someone who makes a success out of bringing fabulous people together, like a good party. I want to celebrate people and companies. Earlier, I wanted to be a PR person. My mentor Isabella Blow was always against it. She knew how to express this in her own inimitable way: “You´ll never be a PR, darling!” Just as well that I didn’t know how to use Excel!!! Opposite page top left: Harriet Verney, Martina Rink and Tim Noble; top right: Jasmin Khezri and Martina Rink; bottom left: sketch by Karl Lagerfeld for a piece of the Mon Dupont collection, which Lagerfeld created exclusively for S.T. Dupont in 2011; bottom right: Martina Rink and Josef Voelk 11 What’s the fi rst thing that springs to mind when we work with a small, renowned manufacturer, Victor you hear the words “fashion”, “luxury”, and Mayer. As Bottega Veneta has evolved into a true “Germany”? luxury lifestyle brand, we have sought partners who are Separately, these words have their own distinct – and experts in their fi eld, and who share the same values as not necessarily related – meanings. When I think of we do, to effectively merge the vision I have for a new fashion I think of something meant for others, while for category and the know-how of the partner. While both me, luxury is private and personal. Germany is prove- are German, most importantly we felt the collaborative nance, and a place that inspires deep appreciation for efforts would result in products consistent with our nature, craft and design. commitment to quality, craftsmanship, functionality and timelessness. Who or what inspires you? I draw inspiration from a number of sources. I spend What are your personal goals for the future? a lot of time looking at art and architecture – visiting I’m always looking to expand the Bottega Veneta galleries, museums and interesting buildings – and portfolio, with the introduction of new or augmented am always inspired by what I see.