001 MAW COVER April 2018.indd 1 27/02/2018 11:49 We are thrilled to be recognized, as Argentina’s Most Admired Brand 2014 • 2015 • 2017 • 2018

TRAPICHE has been recognized among the World’s Top 50 Most Admired Wine Brands. Drinks International, London, April 2018.

Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec 2013 - Finca Ambrosia

Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec 2012 - Finca Ambrosia

Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec 2011 - Finca Ambrosia

The World´s Favorite Malbec MOST ADMIRED 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 3

e have been compiling The World’s Most Admired Wine Brands list for seven years now. Looking back, the leading runners and riders have changed hardly at all. Torres, WConcha y Toro and Treasury Wine Estates’ Penfolds have been there or thereabouts throughout. We also have the block of ‘classic’ wines, such as the Bordeaux  rst growths and famous names, from châteaux D’Yquem, La te, Petrus, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Latour and Mouton Rothschild, to the Super-Tuscans, such as Tignanello and Sassicaia and Spanish ‘royalty’ – none of which spend much, if anything, on the traditional activities of branding: marketing, merchandising, promotions and PR. Nevertheless, our Academy of voters still admire them by virtue of their excellence as to what they put in their bottles. If any were trading on past glories, we would all soon  nd out about it. These sorts of wines go for such sky-high prices that the slightest diminution in quality would be quickly heralded at such events as Bordeaux’s en primeur campaign, where the wines are tasted early on by avid Bordeaux watchers, buyers and négociants, even before they are bottled. So we have a blend, or cuvée, of commercial CONTENTS brands, promoted and supported by traditional marketing and then the elite, intellectual brands, HOW WE DID IT which are on the list by way of history coupled The process by which our Academy with excellence. makes its choices The wine trade is a very broad church so we endeavour to re ect that by seeking out the widest cross-section of participants for the survey, from  THE TOP  LISTING masters to wine (MWs) to multiple retailer buyers. The de nitive list of The World’s We have no movers at the top but we have a Most Admired Wine Brands selection of uppers and downers, re-entries and more than a brace of newcomers.  THE LIST christian davis A snapshot of the movers, new entries, MANAGING EDITOR non-movers and re-entries

Editor Production Editor Events Manager NIGEL HUDDLESTON JAQ BAYLES MATERNITY COVER Managing Editor +44 (0)1293 590048 FIONA FORBES CHRISTIAN DAVIS [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590050 +44 (0)1293 590047 Commercial Director [email protected] [email protected] ROB CULLEN Accounts Drinks International Longley House, Editorial Administrator +44 (0)1293 590043 ANNETTE O’CONNELL ANGEL BROWN [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590051 International Drive, Southgate Avenue, +44 (0) 1293 590048 Senior Account Manager [email protected] Crawley, West Sussex [email protected] CARMEN POEL FRANCESCH Managing Director +44 (0)1293 590042 RUSSELL DODD RH10 6AQ United Kingdom Group Art Editor TEL+44 (0)1293 590040 CHRISTINE FREEMAN [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590052 [email protected] FAX:+44 (0) 1293 474010 [email protected] Publisher WWW.drinksint.com Designer JUSTIN SMITH JAMES DOWN +44 (0)1293 590041 CONTENTS IMAGE: IGORR /ISTOCK.COM COVER IMAGE: MALERAPASO/ISTOCK.COM [email protected] [email protected]

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HOW WE DID IT The thinking behind our Academy members’ choices

KOVGABOR79/ISTOCK.COM orres tops The World’s slipped down from their 2017 – asking how they can get into • The wine is of consistent or Most Admired Wines placing. The biggest drop was the list. Every year we have to improving quality list for the second for Louis Latour, down 24 places gently reiterate the following: • It re ects its region or country consecutive year, to number 43. Our Academy members are of origin Concha Y Torro Votes for solely sparkling and given three votes and presented • It responds to the needs and Tmanages to lock in second place forti ed wines were excluded this with a list of previous winners tastes of its target audience again, while Penfolds stays year, so only still wine brands and other well-known brands. • It is well marketed and comfortably at third. were taken into consideration Should their admired brands packaged This year, 18 brands moved by our Academy. We polled fail to appear in the list, the • It has strong appeal to a wide up the list, the highest climber wine professionals, journalists, members put forward their own demographic being Château La te, up 25 educators and MWs and, as ever, suggestions for inclusion. They In the case of a tie, a small places to number 15, closely have endeavoured to improve the are able to give reasons for their jury of key voters is assembled followed by Trapiche, up 20 to 24. product again this year. choices or remain anonymous to decide nal positions, but it Canti is welcomed into the We are always on the lookout if they wish. They are asked to should be known this does not family at number 30, one of only for members who are highly base votes on the following: a ect any of the top 10 brands. two new entries so quite a feat respected within the wine There are no ways of buying for the all-rounder. industry and each year our into the list or relying on Emiliana, the Chilean brand aim is to grow the Academy. marketing budgets to secure a which produces its wines from We ask that our members vote place – o en some of the biggest organic grapes, also secures a for brands they admire rather brands do not appear. The order place on the list. than basing their votes on the TEN BRANDS of the list but re ects 100% It isn’t all about the new region’s success or case sales the opinions of our Academy though. Ten brands have and margins. HAVE members. Perceptions can be reappeared in 2018, having Every year we are inundated REAPPEARED incorrect or out of date. For previously dropped o the list, with requests from brands that IN THE LIST those that have dropped down, while 13 of the brands that were have not made the cut – or FOR 2018 or dropped out, there is the also on last year’s list have did one year and not the next challenge for next year.

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MOST ADMIRED WINES 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 7 TORRES COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SPAIN OWNER: TORRES FAMILY

he family-owned Spanish and Chilean wine producer retains the coveted number one spot on the chart Twith no shortage of academy members prepared to eulogise over their reasons for giving Torres the nod again. “Torres is leading in every aspect of the business,” said one, “from viticulture and winemaking to branding, including its commitment to the environment. “It is also one of the rare wine producers that keeps seriously investing in R&D every year.” Another said: “Torres continues to be a brand of good quality at a range of price points, including premium wines, and to be a producer with a strong family tradition and concern for quality.” For another voter Torres scored because of “its work to MAS LA PLANA ESTATE sustain or bring back Spanish grape varieties that have been and part of August, although “It is really exciting to see neglected or forgotten, as well as the average temperatures for the how we are gradually reviving its sustainability policy”. vegetation cycle were normal. So the winemaking heritage and Miguel Torres Maczassek, this, together with a long period richness of the Penedès and who took over as managing of drought from April onwards, Catalonia in general. director of the Torres empire caused a drop of 20-25% in yield TORRES “I think that by returning in 2012 – the fifth-generation and early ripening. IS ALWAYS to the past we can find an head of the family business – As far as currently LOOKING FOR impressive authenticity that will thought one of the highlights of on international markets go, SOMETHING result in extraordinary wines.” 2017 was the harvest. Yes, you the year saw its Grans Muralles NEW Torres Maczassek adds: heard right, after a year when the 2010 awarded best Spanish “During 2017 we grew in value big European wine-producing wine by the Spanish Ministry in almost all our markets, but nations saw vineyards ravaged of Agriculture, while Mas La looking for something new specially in the UK, Germany, by frosts, Torres is excited about Plana 2012 won the International while connecting to the past. Russia and Spain. the prospects for 2017’s wines. Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy “Our ancestral grape varieties “What I am very proud of is “Everything we do starts at the International Wine research project – an initiative that we were able to continue in the vineyard,” says Torres Challenge with Perpetual 2014 my father started more than 30 improving our presence in the Maczassek. “The 2017 harvest taking the Priorat Red Trophy. years ago and which today is high-end restaurants, especially was of excellent quality, but one Another highlight was the led by my sister Mireya and I – in Michelin-starred restaurants of the earliest in the history of acquisition of Torre Penelas, a continues to bear fruit,” says where our single vineyard wines our cellar. property with 6ha of Albariño Torres Maczassek. “In 2017 we are really well represented. In “In our home region of vineyards in Rías Baixas. carried out our first harvest Spain more than 80% of the Penedès temperatures were Perhaps what’s most striking of Moneu, the ancient native Michelin restaurants have our especially high during June, July about Torres is that it’s always variety which we found in 1998. wines on their lists.”

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MOST ADMIRED WINES 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 9 CONCHA Y TORO COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: CHILE OWNER: CONCHA Y TORO

he Chilean producer continues to impress our Academy voters with its ability to satisfy demand in Tboth the mainstream sector of the international wine market, with the likes of Casillero del Diablo, and in premium niches with brands such as Don Melchor and Terrunyo. “Concha y Toro still delivers quality at every price point,” says one academy member, “and is a hugely successful and growing brand.” Concha y Toro corporate affairs director Blanca Bustamante seconds those Academy member emotions. “We are confident about three attributes that are highly- admired by our consumers,” she says, “consistent quality, innovation and sustainability, which are permanently shown, fast-developing and dynamic environmental, economic and year on year, in the new vintages market. governance standards. and wines. “For Casillero del Diablo, some Bustamante says: “With “Other people within the of the markets that stood out the conviction that economic industry know our consumers for growth were China, Japan, value is intrinsically linked to associate our brand with these Ireland and Chile.” ASIA OFFERS environmental care and the attributes, so they see us as a The past year’s highlights OPPORTUNITIES contribution the company can company that sets the standard.” for Concha y Toro included the AS IT IS A FAST- make to the development of the Though very much a serious release of Rosé Cinsault 2017 DEVELOPING communities in which we are player in the 21st-century wine and Etiqueta Negra 2016 under present, 2017 was a year of deep market, Concha y Toro has its Marques de Casa Concha MARKET progress in several of our social actually been around since label. Etiqueta Negra is a red projects.” 1883 and in the intervening 130- blend created by Marcelo Papa, attend to the markets in which CyT also further developed the odd years has amassed global who became technical director we operate in a more specialised work of its Center for Research annual sales of 34.8m cases, for CyT last year. It comprises manner,” Bustamante adds, & Innovation, which provides with the UK, the US, Canada, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet “and to continue to strengthen a knowledge base for the wider Mexico, Brazil and China now its Franc and Petit Verdot grapes the premium focus of our wines wine industry. biggest export destinations. from the company’s Puente Alto produced in Chile, Argentina “CRI consolidated its “Asia, Sweden, Finland and vineyards in Chile. and California.” molecular biology laboratory, one Norway had the best growth in CyT has been conducting The company was named in of a kind in Latin America, which 2017,” says Bustamante. “The US a review of business strategy the top drinks companies on the has generated knowledge about presents high levels of potential in the past 12 months to keep Dow Jones Sustainability Index the genetic material of vines with growth. In Asia, we are seeing it ahead of the game. “New in 2017, a measure that evaluates state-of-the-art technology,” says great opportunities as it is a structures have been defined to operators in terms of their social, Bustamante.

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COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA Even by Penfolds’ standards, OWNER: TREASURY WINE ESTATES 2017 was a busy year for the brand – in more ways than one. A personal highlight for enfolds finds chief winemaker Peter Gago Yalumba breathing came in June when he was down its neck this made a Companion of the year but just manages Order of Australia for “eminent to cling on to the service to the Australian wine Ptitle of leading Australian wine industry as an internationally brand. The one-time number acclaimed winemaker, to the one continues to win admirers global promotion of excellence for its ability to produce in winemaking, viticulture, consistently high quality at marketing and research, as a everything from more accessible mentor to young oenologists, premium price points to the and to the community of South highly-collectible top end. Australia”. Though part of the massive Penfolds’ commercial product Treasury Wine Estates portfolio, highlight was the release of Penfolds still manages to retain Penfolds g3, a special blend an independence of spirit that made from three vintages of its harks back to the producer’s prestige Grange label. The blend founders, Dr Christopher and features Grange from 2008, 2012 Mary Penfold, who laid down and 2014, the last of which is not the brand’s roots in 1844. due to be released as a The brand team in Australia in its own right until later in told Drinks International they 2018. Only 1,200 bottles of the felt Penfolds resonated with A$3,000 wine were released. opinion-formers in the global Gago described it on release wine trade because “the stories as “Penfolds’ house style and philosophies behind each distilled”, and added: “It is a wine bring a timeless quality, blend where each individual making Penfolds wines special vintage selected delivers a and compelling for collectors depth of character and flavour and drinkers the world over”. honouring our flagship Grange.” One of our academy members The 2008 and 2012 are widely who voted for the brand said: regarded as two of Grange’s “Penfolds has consistently best vintages, which raised pioneered, provided exemplary eyebrows in some quarters leadership and followed a about the wisdom of blending thoughtful path of stylistic them. “It wasn’t about selecting exploration, while producing the biggest or the best Grange consistent volume sufficient for vintages,” insisted Gago, “it the brand to be accessible.” was about making something different – but not just to be different.” On the marketing front, Penfolds linked up with National Geographic for a series of short films featuring the EVEN BY stories of collectors who have PENFOLDS’ brought their prized wines to STANDARDS, 2017 the brand’s recorking clinics WAS A BUSY YEAR in Adelaide, Sydney, London, FOR THE BRAND New York, Vancouver and Hong Kong.

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f anyone was in doubt about Australia’s ability IT HAS FORGED to continue to excite in GREATER the increasingly diverse AMBITIONS international wine TOWARDS THE Imarket, Yalumba’s rise up this VERY TOP END year’s Most Admired chart should put them right. The producer has had a storming Sauvignon/Shiraz, which is 12 months, surging up from commanding prices of getting position number 16 last year to on for £200 in UK retail. It give the country two of the top was described by acclaimed five places on this year’s list. Australian wine critic James As if the Yalumba brand’s Halliday as “a truly magnificent startling elevation on the wine” and endorsements don’t chart wasn’t enough, the come any higher in that market. Oxford Landing arm of the “The response has been broad Yalumba family has its phenomenal with many own entry in the lower reaches querying why Yalumba had as well. taken so long to be part of the Yalumba owner Robert Hill- serious luxury wine market,” Smith, who was managing says a rightly proud Hill- director for 30 years from 1985 Smith. “It has had fabulous before handing the reins to Nick endorsements from all corners Waterman, thinks that heritage of the planet.” – the first vines were planted Overall, he describes by England-born Samuel Smith Yalumba’s global performance halfway through the 19th commercially as “steady”. century – and commitment to He adds: “Our high-end doing things the right way have reds, The Signature and The earned the Yalumba brand the Octavius, and our Grenache acclaim of its peers. portfolio have done well, while “We started in 1849 and the high-end Viognier niche we have canvassed all markets love has grown. regularly since and hopefully “Canada has been kind, made some friends,” he says. as have New Zealand and “We are dedicated to quality, Australia. Singapore and China authenticity and excitement and are promising. Our Coonawarra many say integrity. Cabernet releases are gaining “We work hard and play hard popularity quickly.” with the wine fraternity and we The UK and the US are make classy, affordable wines the other big markets for the that epitomise personality.” wines made by a team at the Among our academy Yalumba winery in Angaston members Yalumba was with grapes from 700ha of variously endorsed as “family- and mainstream, premium- classy, affordable wines in 2017, dedicated vineyards in Barossa owned with a very high priced wines is certainly what and singled out as a highlight and Coonawarra by a team standard of quality throughout Yalumba is best known for, but for the Yalumba brand by comprising head of winemaking the range” and “providing it has recently forged greater Hill-Smith, was The Caley Louisa Rose, senior winemaker high-quality liquid at an ambitions towards the very top 2012, the first release of what Kevin Glastonbury and approachable price”. end of the market. Yalumba describes as “uber- winemakers Natalie Cleghorn That slot for mid-market Joining the ranks of the quality” Coonawarra Cabernet and Heather Fraser.

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MOST ADMIRED WINES 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 13

ERRAZURIZ

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: CHILE OWNER: EDUARDO CHADWICK AND FAMILY

It was a busy year for Errazuriz Errazuriz also planted the in 2017. The Chilean producer new Rocafuerte vineyard, 2km had the first harvest from from its existing property in replantings in its top Aconcagua Costa. The new site vineyards at the turn has been planted with 54ha of of the decade, and Chardonnay and 11ha of Pinot some of the fruits of Noir to boost production in the the project will be Aconcagua Costa region where, seen in a new Don Errazuriz says, demand has Maximiano blend to been outstripping supply for be launched in 2019. its wines. Major markets This burst of activity comes received the after the opening of two Don Maximiano new wineries in 2010, which Founder’s Reserve have helped Errazuriz hone for the first time the quality of its wines to 6 last year, one of become one of the southern MICHEL CHAPOUTIER a batch of Icon hemisphere’s most consistent range releases premium wine producers. that also Last year also saw Errazuriz COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE included Kai, being named best Chilean OWNER: CHAPOUTIER FAMILY La Cumbre winery in ’s and Viñedo Extraordinary Awards, an Chadwick. accolade based on consistent Chapoutier has pipped Guigal at the post in the battle of the top scores from the publication’s Rhône giants and in doing so earned the accolade of the top reviews team. French producer on this year’s Most Admired list. Naturally, for The good press rubbed off a producer that’s been around since the early years of the 19th on sales, with the company century, tradition plays a big part in the Chapoutier story, but it’s reporting “excellent growth” in not afraid to embrace modern ways of doing things if it means the US, China and South Korea. being able to advance the quality of the stuff that it puts in its Volumes in China alone rose bottles. Research and development work around terroir that 42%, and revenue was up by includes aerial drone imaging and nitrogen mapping to assess 34%, driven by a strong brand- soil suitability is just one example. building strategy, efficient The search for a great match of terrain and vines has taken distribution and a Shanghai- it beyond its home region with recent developments including based sales team. growth for its Domaine Dominio del Soto in Spain’s Ribera del US sales benefited from a Duero. In all, it has 338ha under vine in France and another 89ha sales and marketing push overseas. 5 behind the Max Reserva tier The company achieved total global sales of €60m last year of wines and growth from with strong growth in its domestic market thanks to the work Don Maximiano at the of brand ambassadors on the ground and development of top end. restaurant sales in addition to those in wine shops. Chapoutier The producer’s motto wines have also raised both their profile and sales in the US and is to be “dedicated to craft Canada with increased field sales activity and positive coverage the best wines from our from wine critics. terroirs and to be recognised Other major markets are Norway, Japan, Germany, the United as a world class producer” Arab Emirates, Switzerland and China. Another high ranking Perhaps where Chapoutier scores over some of the other more in this year’s World’s Most illustrious names in the list is in its ability to provide quality and Admired Wine Brands list value for money at both the top end and everyday price levels, as suggests it is achieving this evidenced by its two flagship wines, Belleruche Côtes du Rhône in spades as far as many typically coming in at under $10 in the US market, while Le of its industry peers are Pavillon Ermitage breaks the three-figure mark. concerned.

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VILLA MARIA

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: NEW ZEALAND OWNER: SIR GEORGE FISTONICH

It may have Felton Road sustainability, 7 breathing down its neck, but for investment in now Villa Maria clings on to the organic practices highest rank for a New Zealand and the fact we have wine brand on our list. It clearly always had a long- helps to have been playing the term view of the long game. Villa Maria was wine industry from founded by Sir George Fistonich an environmental in 1961, long before the country perspective, became the go-to source for the Villa Maria New World Sauvignon Blanc, brand and what and he remains at the helm as we stand for CEO officer today. resonates with But for longevity, don’t read people.” conservatism. The producer RIDGE is constantly moving forward, refining its approach to terroir, viticulture and winemaking COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: US under chief winemaker Nick OWNER: OTSUKA PHARMECEUTICALS CO Piccone, and bringing new wines to the market. Albariño is a recent addition to the more Ridge retains its position as the top North American and familiar Kiwi fare of Sauvignon Californian producer on the Most Admired list, keeping the and Pinot Noir. 8 number seven position for the second year running. A major move in 2017 was the Phrases such as “minimum intervention” are all the rage in establishment of House of Fine winemaking these days, but Ridge was way ahead of the curve Wine, a distribution partnership and it was largely by looking back to vineyard and winemaking in Australia with that country’s techniques used in the Bordeaux and California of the 19th Henschke and Champagne century that its glowing international reputation was formed. house Bollinger. Other stand- Ridge’s fame started to be hewn when it was placed fifth in the out performances in export 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. At the 30th anniversary tasting markets last year were the UK, in 2006 it went several steps further, with its 1971 Monte Bello the US, Canada and Ireland, and Cabernet winning first place in the original vintage category and domestic sales remain strong. the 2000 ranking top for new vintages. “We continue to see excellent The driving force behind the accumulation of Ridge’s growth in global terms for the prestige points goes to Paul Draper, who stepped down as chief brand,” says chief operating winemaker and CEO in 2016 after 47 years with the company, officer Richard Thomas. during which time he put old vine Zinfandel back on the “This is being driven by a world’s serious wine map and coined the phrase “pre-industrial healthy combination of value winemaking” to describe Ridge’s organic and sustainable appreciation for our main SKUs approach to viticulture and production. in key opportunity markets and Writing in 2011, he explained the ethos, which still endures growth in our higher-tier wines. at Ridge to this day. “Pre-industrial winemaking begins with “We’re one of the few respect for the natural process that transforms fresh grapes into remaining New Zealand family- wine, and the 19th-century model of minimum intervention,” he owned wineries of our size and said. “When you have great vineyards that produce high-quality are able to make exceptional grapes of distinctive individual character, this is not only an quality wines for the more environmentally and socially responsible approach, it’s also the casual occasion, right up to best way to consistently make fine wine.” limited release wines from Draper’s philosophy is ably carried forward by vineyard guru exceptional terroirs for the David Gates, Monte Bello site winemaker Eric Baugher and John connoisseur. Olney, in charge of production at Lytton Springs in Sonoma County. “When you ally these with our commitment to

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MOST ADMIRED WINES 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 17

FELTON ROAD

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: NEW ZEALAND OWNER: NIGEL GREENING

Eighteen years after being bought by Englishman Nigel Greening, Felton Road has gate-crashed the top 10 in the Most Admired list after 9 debuting at number 13 last year, putting it hot on the heels of Villa Maria for the honour of highest-ranking Kiwi producer. Winemaker Blair Walter juggles his main role with those of general manager, chief of exports and global sales director, though pressure to force sales graphs in an upwards direction is non-existent. Felton Road has a zero-growth policy for environmental reasons and the prestigious Central Otago Pinot Noir for which it is best known – along with its Chardonnay and Riesling whites – is sold principally on allocation, with loyal trade customers first in line. “Markets don’t have the opportunity for growth unless it is because of a market that is in decline,” says Greening, who adds that his mission is “to master what we already do rather than explore new ideas”. He says: “While we have historically seen a steady migration of volume from the US – where restrictive market practices cause both pricing and placement issues – towards Asia, this has now largely stopped.” Greening’s business ethics mean he resists artificially ramping up prices as the Felton Road reputation grows, unless such moves are dictated by exchange rates and production costs. “Customer loyalty is a continued consideration,” he says, “and we reward our customers by not greedily putting the prices up.” Greening believes some of the love among our academy voters for the brand comes from his and Walter’s willingness to travel the world sharing the Felton Road philosophy and its wines.

E GUIGAL

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE OWNER: GUIGAL FAMILY

Founded by Etienne Guigal as “fanatical”. Indeed, it was accessible, everyday prices. just after World War II, Guigal Parker’s endorsement of Guigal’s Guigal has around 75ha is renowned not only for the top Syrah wines – La Mouline, under vine, around two-thirds quality of its own wines but for La Turque and La Landonne – Syrah and the remainder white revitalising the fortunes of the in the 1980s that really got the varieties, including Viognier, Rhône region as a whole. Guigal juggernaut rolling. The Marsanne and Roussanne. It Etienne started as a cellar American market especially fell recently added a new vine plot hand at Vidal-Fleury in 1927 for its opulently-styled wines, in Côte Rôtie and two years ago before deciding to strike out on summed up in Jancis Robinson’s opened a new cellar to increase his own. Fifty-five years later Oxford Companion to Wine, as storage and ageing facilities. 10 the family company he’d set up “dark, dramatic, mouth-fillingly The company’s total global was so successful that it was rich and oaky”. Those wines, sales exceed 7m bottles and the able to go back and buy his from its top Côte Rôtie plots, can UK, Germany, Canada, Sweden previous employer. measure their production in the and Norway join the US on A lot of the credit for E hundreds of cases rather than the list of its principal export Guigal’s success went to the thousands, and their prices in markets. It is also starting to see founder’s son, Marcel, whose hundreds of dollars or pounds increasing interest from the Far approach to quality was once rather than tens, though Guigal East, particularly Japan, South described by Robert Parker also produces wines at more Korea and Singapore.

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of the US, have ranked among its and built a reputation for the the days when each year’s fans. ageing ability of its Tempranillo- allocation of new Sauvignon A rich backstory is one reason led wines that rivals the best of was greeted with hype bordering for the eye-watering prices Bordeaux and trounces many on hysteria. There’s been no but high production costs and in the more illustrious rival diminishment of product quality, 11 CHÂTEAU relatively scarcity are the real region of . “Our goal is to however, nor of the brand’s D’YQUEM driving forces. Only grapes be present wherever there may enduring, yet more sensible, a ected by botrytis are picked, be a consumer for our wines,” popularity in its key markets yields are around a third of says managing director of of the US, UK and Australia. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE the average for Sauternes and sales and marketing Antonio The brand reports strong sales OWNER: LVMH production averages only Menéndez. “Countries such as growth in the past year in the US around 8,000 cases, according the US, Switzerland, Mexico, the especially, driven by increased to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford UK and Germany are where our interest and demand for top- Those who like to quote lottery Companion to Wine. wineries mostly do business, class Sauvignon Blanc. win-type gures as evidence but out intention is to continue The clamour for Cloudy Bay of how barmy the ne wine growing worldwide.” Vega Sicilia in the years following its launch market has become can always enters 2018 three years on from in 1985 led to a proliferation of rely on historical auction data an overhaul of its technical team, styles and varieties, but recently for Château d’Yquem to come undertaken in a bid to ensure that there has been a refocusing on up with the goods. As the its wines can walk the walk, not a tight core of Sauvignon Blanc, only Sauternes that was rated 13 VEGA SICILIA just talk the talk. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As a superior rst growth in the well as these  agship varieties, original 1855 the core range includes Te Koko classi cation, it has long held COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SPAIN barrel-fermented Sauvignon, Te an exalted position in the region OWNER: ÁLVAREZ FAMILY Wahi Pinot Noir from highly-rated and is easily the most revered Central Otago and traditional sweet wine in the world. method sparkling Pelorus. Those gures then? There are plenty of brands on 14 CLOUDY BAY Pinot Noir has become the US$100,000 for a 1787 in 2006, for the Most Admired list that can second pillar of its marketing example, or £75,000 for a bottle of boast distribution in more than thrust a er SB, with Pinot 1811 exactly 200 years a er it was 100 countries, but there can’t be COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: NEW ZEALAND Salon events rolled out across made. Up-to-date vintages are many that have got there from OWNER: LVMH several markets worldwide in more modest, naturally, though scratch in a little over 30 years. In 2017, pitting Cloudy Bay wines still out of reach for most mere that time, Ribera del Duero’s Vega against other great examples of mortals. The Tsars of Russia and Sicilia has increased its export Things have settled down for the variety in tastings, a sign of Thomas Je erson, third president base from three to 115 countries the once-cult Kiwi brand since con dence in the wines.

12 CAMPO VIEJO

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SPAIN OWNER: PERNOD RICARD

Pernod Ricard’s Rioja brand has nudged up a respectable ve places in the Most Admired list since last year, claiming growth in 12 most markets where it is distributed with particular success in the US, the UK, Canada and Germany. The company reports that China is growing rapidly too, o a small base, and puts global growth for the year in double digits. It is sold in more than 50 countries, with annual sales topping 2.7m cases and its biggest volumes in the UK, Spain, the US, Germany and Sweden. IWSR gures place it as the world’s best- selling Rioja brand by volume in 2016. With such a dominant position it would be easy for the brand to play it safe and stick with what it knows, but its all-woman production team of chief winemaker Elena Adell, supported by Clara Canals and Irene Perez, experiment constantly with new grape varieties to take Campo Viejo out of the Tempranillo comfort zone. Mostly these are sold at the cellar door under the Cata Cero name but some make it to commercial success.

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from one generation to the next. strategy, tone or technical market is the UK, where it Baron Eric de Rothschild gives approach for the Pauillac launched the Levantine label way to daughter Saskia in April, château, ennobled as a fi rst with the Marks & Spencer aft er 35 years as the company’s growth in the 1855 Bordeaux chain in 2017. The UK is front of chairman and fi gurehead. Chief classifi cation and, in the past mind for 2018 too, with Majestic 15 CHÂTEAU LAFITE executive Christophe Salin will couple of decades, the one that Wine stores taking the Aana also step aside, aft er a measly 33 really gets pulses racing – and wine, a Cinsault/Cabernet/ years in the job, to be replaced prices rising – fastest in Far Grenache blend. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE by Jean-Guillaume Prats, head Eastern markets. OWNER: ROTHSCHILD of LVMH’s Estates & Wines, Lafi te polled an unusually the division that manages low ranking of number 40 in last its prestigious overseas wine year’s Most Admired list but has Lafi te chalks up 150 years in interests, including Cloudy Bay been elevated into more familiar the hands of the Rothschild and Cape Mentelle. territory this year. Indeed, it’s family in 2018 with the baton It’s safe to assume that there the top ranking posh claret on 18 CONO SUR in the process of being handed will be no drastic change in the chart, with only the sweet wine d’Yquem preventing it taking the number one spot in COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: CHILE Bordeaux. OWNER: CONCHA Y TORO

Once a top 10 brand on the Most Admired chart, Cono Sur slipped out of the 50 last year but has bounced back with 17 CHÂTEAU MUSAR some style into the top 20 16 this year. The company was an COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: LEBANON advocate of sustainable OWNER: HOCHAR FAMILY winemaking practices long before they became fashionable across the industry and is still in There was plenty of publicity pursuit of those goals today. In about the impact of spring 2017 it was given a Gold Medal frosts on the 2017 vintage in of Energy Effi ciency by the the big European winemaking Chilean government, the fi rst MARQUÉS DE RISCAL countries, but less documented company in the sector to gain was 30% shortfall in grapes for such recognition. the same reason for Château In vineyard development COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SPAIN Musar from its Bekaa Valley it invested in a new estate in OWNER: VINHOS DE LOS HEREDEROS DEL MARQUÉS DE RISCAL vineyards. But it will take Mulchén in Bío Bío, where it more than a bit of frost to is planting 212ha with cool- stop Musar in its tracks. This climate varieties such as There can surely be no better example of the meeting of tradition was the Lebanense producer Gewürztraminer, Riesling and and modernism in the wine world than the cellars of Marqués that prospered under the Pinot Noir. de Riscal, which date back to 1858, and the spectacular hotel stewardship of the late Serge As part of its four-year designed by Frank Gehry, which opened in 2006. The design Hochar throughout a 15-year sponsorship of the Tour inspired a rush by other wine producers to the doors of famous civil war. Its reputation has de France, the northern architects and put the producer well and truly at the top of the gradually morphed from being hemisphere summer saw the list for European wine tourism. The original winery hosts the one of the global wine trade’s launch of a Bicicleta limited so-called Cathedral, a collection of wines from every Riscal favourite quirky best-kept edition, with an illustration by vintage since the very fi rst in 1862. secrets to a genuinely respected artist Eliza Southwood. The Riscal-Gehry connection has been reinforced since with player on the world stage. Sales are running at 7.8% the launch of the old vine Frank Gehry Selection wine to much Marc Hochar, who runs the up year on year with more critical acclaim. company with brother Gaston, than 5m cases sold across its The Rioja producer has featured in past Most Admired lists says: “We never try to assess the complete portfolio. Fine wines and makes a return this year as our highest new entrant. Riscal’s way other industry players view were ahead by 19% and the icon wines are drunk in more than 110 countries and more than 60% us. We know of many who respect Cabernet Sauvignon, Cono Sur of its production goes to export markets. our wines but we prefer to remain Silencio, was up 29%. The company’s declared mission is to be “an innovating, discreet and humble about it, and The UK, Japan, Denmark and pioneering cellar in a constantly changing winemaking sector”, focused on producing the best Finland are targets for growth with wines that are “original, fresh, elegant and easy to drink”. wines we can.” in exports, where it sells to 80 Its biggest international countries.

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CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE OWNER: BERNARD ARNAULT/ALBERT FRÈRE

Cheval Blanc has put in a better showing in this year’s Most Admired list, moving up from number 35 to nestle in the middle of a scrum of other similarly-esteemed Bordeaux châteaux. The relatively small Saint-Emilion estate devotes just over half its 39ha to Cabernet Franc, a variety suited to its gravelly soil, with Merlot absorbing most of the rest. There are 45 plots of vines, the fruits of which are fermented in an upgraded winery which opened in 2011. The auction price for a bottle from the legendary 1947 vintage, which helped forge Cheval Blanc’s reputation in the late 20th century, will set you back anything up to £7,000 – a considerable multiple on the price when it was first released. A blazing hot, long summer produced an opulent, port-like wine that experts down the years have been charmed by, while noting it was not necessarily typical of the property. Some have even stuck their necks out as far as to call it the best wine of the 20th century.

making its international market André Mentzelopoulos in 1977. when he extolled the virtues of prices among some of the most 21His arrival brought investment what would later become the

expensive of the top Bordeaux which saw the châteaux, its oldest of the châteaux to make producers. Berry Bros & Rudd in vineyards and its winery it into the Bordeaux first growth London will currently sell you a upgraded to a level befitting classification – and the only one 19 CHÂTEAU PETRUS case of 1981 for a smidge short of their status on the world stage. in Pessac Léognan appellation £21,000. Expect to pay up to three His daughter, Corinne, – he was clearly working from times more for the legendary remains in control of the phonetically transcribed tasting COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE Bordeaux vintage that followed. property, for a long time assisted notes, recording its name as Ho OWNER: JP MOUEIX by managing director Paul Bryan. A wine cellar ledger from Pontallier who died in 2016. three years earlier registered The release last year of its stocks of Haut-Brion in the Although the history of Grand Vin 2015 – considered possession of King Charles II of Pomerol’s most revered estate by the château to rank with England, though the wine was can be traced back to the late great years such as 2005, 2009 logged as Hobriono. 18th century, it was only when 20 CHÂTEAU and 2010 – was marked with a These days the name Haut- the Moueix family took over MARGAUX special silk-screen print label to Brion is such a well-known sales rights to the brand at honour the last vintage under luxury brand in major wine the end of World War II that Pontallier’s management and markets around the globe that its reputation started to head COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE the completion of the building such misinterpretations are few towards the stratosphere. The OWNER: CORINNE MENTZELOPOULOS of the Nouveau Chai winery. and far between. Its wines are family took 50% ownership among the most sought after of of the brand in the 1960s, the the top Bordeaux properties, decade when its status as a One of the four original first largely because they’re so rare. mark of prestige was cemented, growths named in the 1855 For red grapes, only around especially in the US. Top-notch Bordeaux classification, 46ha are under vine – an even French restaurant Le Pavillon in Château Margaux is steeped in spread of Merlot and Cabernet New York especially got behind history, and it had been picked 22 CHÂTEAU HAUT- Sauvignon, with smatterings Petrus, and one of its regular out almost 70 years earlier by BRION of Cabernet Franc and Petit diners, Aristotle Onassis, the Thomas Jefferson as one of a Verdot – and average annual shipping magnate who married quartet of vineyards of note production of its first wine is the widowed Jackie Kennedy, when he visited the region. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE only between 10,000 and 12,000 was one of its biggest fans. The name has always had a OWNER: DOMAINE CLARENCE DILLON cases. In full control of the Moueix magic but the property itself Small parcels of Semillon and family since the start of the was in need of a bit of TLC when Sauvignon Blanc go to produce 21st century, Petrus makes it was bought by Greek-born but Samuel Pepys called it right a paltry 800 cases or so of only around 30,000 bottles, French-based grocery magnate as long ago as 1663, though Château Haut-Brion Blanc.

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MOST ADMIRED WINES 2018 DRINKS INTERNATIONAL 23

MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SPAIN OWNER: FORNER FAMILY

Marqués de Cáceres may be one of the world’s best-known names in Spanish wine but there’s a heavy influence of Bordeaux in the heritage of the Rioja producer. The grandfather and great- grandfather of current company president Cristina Forner started the family’s relationship with wine in the 1920s when they set up a business in Valencia, in which her father, Enrique, worked as a boy. After the family was exiled from Spain during the civil war, Enrique eventually struck out on his own, making wine in the Rhône and the Loire in the 1950s, before buying Château Camensac and Château Larose Trintaudon in the Haut-Medoc region of Bordeaux in 1963. Enrique took the skills he learned back to Spain in 1968 and chose Rioja as the base for a new winemaking operation, guided by the region’s historical links with Bordeaux. The company now sells wine in more than 120 countries.

knowledge and experience and in 1970 as a conventional single of nicknames – depending on give Trapiche an international vineyard Chianti Classico before the 23perspective of the observer rather than an inward-looking breaking free of the constraints he’s either the King or the Pope perspective. In doing so, he’s of DOC regulations to become of Beaujolais. Whichever the continuing a long-standing a vino da tavola. Though on individual chooses to use, it’s a 24 TRAPICHE tradition for the company, which the face of it this implied loss of well-earned moniker. Deboeuf won its first international award prestige, it allowed Tignanello to has not only built his own in Paris as long ago as 1889. focus on its own idea of quality company into one with a €66 COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: ARGENTINA Overseas sales stepped up a gear – the ability to make blends million turnover selling more OWNER: GRUPO PEÑAFLOR in the 1970s and have been in from only red grapes, including than 21m bottles of wine a year, steady growth ever since. non-Italian varieties. The result he’s been an intrinsic cog in was wines with more heft that building the global reputation of While many of Argentina’s appealed to serious wine lovers the region as whole. producers are tied to the twin looking for alternatives to the big Duboeuf began selling wine yokes of Malbec and Torrontes, names of Bordeaux. to top restaurateurs including a little bit of adventure may be Although the Super-Tuscan Paul Blanc and Paul Bacuse paying off for Trapiche, the only cult means prices are high for in the 1960s before forming brand from the country to make 25 TIGNANELLO many wine drinkers, to the the negociant Les Vins George it on to this year’s Most Admired initiated connoisseur they’re Deboeuf in 1964. In subsequent list. The company kicked off 2017 still a snip compared to the decades he effectively became by introducing its Costa & Pampa COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: ITALY finest France has to offer. a roving ambassador for range, shifting Argentine focus OWNER: ANTINORI Beaujolais around the world and away from the traditional regions is largely credited with creating of Mendoza and Patagonia to the region’s Nouveau wine Chapadmalal on the Atlantic It says something for the marketing phenomenon that put coast. At just 17ha, the vineyard’s reputation of a wine when it it on the world wine map. production is small for a range scores significantly higher in Today the company works that steers away from the the Most Admired chart than 26 GEORGES with 400 winemakers and anchor Argentinian varieties its parent brand. Antinori itself DUBOEUF 20 co-operatives, together to Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot only registers at number 40 on accounting for 15% of the region’s Noir, Riesling and a sparkling this year’s list, 15 places lower production, and exporting 75% Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend. than its Tignanello label. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE of what it sells. Its top markets Widely-acclaimed director of The wine is held in esteem in OWNER: DUBOEUF FAMILY are the US, Canada, the UK and winemaking Daniel Pi is a keen world markets that clamour for Japan but Deboeuf wines can collaborator with counterparts what we now call the unofficial also be found in quieter corners in France, the US, Australia and classification of Super-Tuscans. The founder of the company that of the global wine market such as New Zealand in a bid to share Tignanello made its debut back bears his name revels in a choice Russia, Israel and Mustique.

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OYSTER BAY

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: NEW ZEALAND OWNER: DELEGAT’S WINE ESTATES

Though the name is intrinsically linked to the phenomenon that is Marlborough Sauvignon, Oyster Bay does, in fact, cover a diverse 27 array of bases, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from that region, Hawkes Bay Merlot and Pinot Gris, and white and pink styles of sparkling all carrying the badge. The Delegat’s-owned brand has never really looked back since winning world’s best Sauvignon status at the International Wine & Spirit Competition for its first vintage in 1990. Since then, it’s become a global mainstay offering consumers dependable quality and trade customers accessible but premium prices. The parent company’s dedicated sales teams in key global markets including the UK, the US, Canada, Australia, Japan and China ensure it has a distribution base to match the reputation of its products. It claims to have the number one spot for premium Merlot in the UK and for premium Chardonnay in Canada, while its Sauvignon is the best-selling bottled white in Australia and a top five brand in the US.

third largest market. Canada, the easier sell than the previous Netherlands, the Baltic states, one. The high summer of China and Nigeria are among 2015 brought a heatwave that the other strongest markets contrasted with challenging for a brand which penetrates conditions in 2014, when 28 BARTON & more than 130 countries in all. global wine press and trade 30 CANTI GUESTIER Listings with the supermarket expectations for the region were chain Waitrose make the UK somewhat lowered. its fastest-growing European Sassicaia’s 2014 signature COUNTRY OF ORGIN: ITALY COUNTRY OF ORGIN: FRANCE territory. The brand highlights blend of Bordeaux grape OWNER: FRATELLI MARTINI OWNER: CASTEL of 2017 were the releases of the varieties was way ahead of what M de Magnol collection of AOC the prophets of doom suggested Bordeaux wines and the 2015 it ought to be, but it took a The Italian jack-of-all-trades It’s not far short of 300 years vintage of Château Magnol, a considerable globetrotting brand has come from nowhere since Irishman Thomas Barton Cru Bourgeois from Haut-Médoc effort from brand ambassador to bag a top 30 place in this made his base in Bordeaux, made in collaboration with and owning-family member, year’s Most Admired rundown. planting the roots for a company Hubert de Boüard of Château Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, Canti is best known in export that not only makes wine in Angélus. to successfully get the message markets for its Prosecco but the its home region but also in across to key customers and umbrella brand of the Canti Burgundy, the Loire Valley, commentators. Sassicaia saw Collection also includes Asti Beaujolais, Rhone, Languedoc, particular success in Asia in and a host of other varietal Gascony and Corsica. Barton 2017, while Europe and the US fizzes, white and red premium & Guestier’s relatively high remain substantial markets, but estate wines from Gavi to entry into this year’s list, it is also focusing on expanding Barolo, everyday still varietals, after being absent in 2017, 29 SASSICAIA its reach into smaller territories. an array of on-the-go mini- reflects a stunning commercial Future plans for the family’s bottles and fruit-flavoured performance, with the company Tenuta San Guido corporation drinks under the name Caffè claiming a 20% increase in COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: ITALY include the building of a new Roma. The aim is to be able to global sales last year to reach 1.2 OWNER: INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA winery for the production of provide a wine choice for every million cases, spurred by the US, FAMILY its Guidalberto IGT wine, but conceivable drinking occasion its biggest single market where for the main Sassicaia brand and the range is constantly growth was in double digits. the strategy is to stick to the growing towards this end. Russia is number two for B&G The recently-released 2015 Cabernet-forward style that The Canti concept came into exports, and high visibility in vintage of one of the most gives it a stand-out USP in the being in 2001 as the brainchild duty free – including Delta Sky eagerly-awaited super-Tuscan region and forms the bedrock of of second-generation family Lounges – makes travel retail its wines should be a considerably its global quality reputation. member Gianni Martini.

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contemporary-Australian in on a joint venture with Four goes back to the middle of the style but armed with freshness Seasons Hotels and property 16th century, putting it among and elegance. developer Reignwood at the an elite group of the world’s Pernod Ricard describes 2017 Ten Trinity Square members’ oldest winemaking companies. growth as “modest but solid”, club in London. The revamped It is best known for its sparkling 31 JACOB’S CREEK with significant advances in former Port of London Authority wines, but chief winemaker China, India and Canada, where offices have design features by Diego Pinilla and his team are the launch of Moscato in cans Bruno Moinard, who revamped also accomplished still wine COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA was particularly successful. Château Latour itself in 2014. producers, overseeing eight OWNER: PERNOD RICARD Jacob’s Creek is in more than The club is the first time it has wineries in Spain and one each 70 territories in all, with the UK lent its name to any project in Argentina and California. and the US its biggest after the away from its vineyards and It claims that its vine stock of The next time it comes round to domestic market. Annual global winery and has particular 3,000 company-owned hectares Pernod Ricard refurbishing the sales are pushing close to the 7 resonance in a city where makes it the largest vineyard Jacob’s Creek winery at Rowland million case mark. its wines originally shot to owner in Europe. Flat in the Barossa Valley, a very prominence in late 17th century The company is on a mission large trophy cabinet might be on coffee house auctions. to drive up the image and the list of must-haves. Since the The 21st century arrangement quality spec of cava with its brand was launched in 1973 it’s gives Latour a prestige shop Ars Collecta high-end range, amassed thousands of prizes in window by creating a wine list where some production runs international competitions. that features some of its most come in at under 1,000 bottles The brand’s heritage goes 32 CHÂTEAU LATOUR highly-prized vintages. and which includes 457 billed back much further, to 1847, as “the most valuable cava in when Johann Gramp planted history”. The flagship Anna his first vines on the banks of COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE de Codorníu range has been the creek that now gives the OWNER: GROUPE ARTÉMIS enhanced with the introduction brand its name. While many of Rosé and Dulce marks. producers who make the Codorníu says it expects transition into global brand It can sometimes be difficult to 33 CODORNÍU prestige cava to increase its production tip their styles view the big luxury Bordeaux contribution to total global towards a set of lowest common houses as wine brands at all, but turnover of €238m from 55% in denominators, the Jacob’s if one characteristic of a brand is COUNTRY OF ORGIN: SPAIN 2016/17 to 62% in the current Creek team – chief winemaker its transferability to new formats OWNER: RAVENTÓS FAMILY year, with sales in the US, China Ben Bryant, sparkling and and settings, while retaining the and Japan leading the charge. white winemaker Trina Smith essence of its original identity, Spain, Belgium, the UK and and red winemaker Daniel it was a trick Latour managed to The first documented evidence Nordic territories are among the Swincer – aim at a premium pull off in 2017. of the Raventos family’s biggest volume markets for the spec, delivering wines that are The Médoc château embarked involvement in wine production company.

INNISKILLIN

COUNTRY OF ORGIN: CANADA OWNER: ARTERRA WINES CANADA

There’s a debut for Canada on the Most Admired chart with industry peers deeming the icewine specialist Inniskillin worthy 34 of a place this year. In 1975, it became the first company to be granted a winery licence since the repeal of Prohibition in Ontario in 1929. Founders Donald Zirzaldo and Karl Kaiser had planted the first vines – just 32 acres of Riesling, Chardonnay and Gamay – a year before. Since then Inniskillin has gone on to be made available in over 85 countries around the world and become the most widely-distributed icewine brand in travel retail. It also makes a broad spread of varietal table wines from classic wine division has given it a sharper focus. European grape varieties. Recent innovations include the introduction of sparkling Global sales returned to growth of 4.5% in 2017 after a dip the Cabernet Franc and Vidal icewines, which the current team – year before, with the strongest following winds blowing in from headed by winemaker Bruce Nicholson – see as a fitting tribute Asia, in particular China, and across the border from the US, to the “passion and pioneering spirit” of Kaiser who died last where being part of Constellation’s TRU Estates & Vineyards fine November.

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in order to hit a chord with – practices can’t be sustained stars such as Ella Fitzgerald, consumers. The Gallo-owned and, of course, words such Dizzy Gillespie and Ray Charles. brand has earned its corn by as Burgundy can’t be thrown The brand is huge in the US providing aff ordable, everyday around with abandon in and counts South Korea, China, drinking wines, the origins of international markets. The Switzerland and Japan among 36 BAREFOOT which only go back as far as the description wouldn’t go far its biggest export markets, 1960s. That was when California anyway now to cover a range with South America becoming winemaker Davis Bynum made that – since entrepreneurs increasingly important as it COUNTRY OF ORGIN: US Barefoot Bynum Burgundy, Michael Houlihan and Bonnie benefi ts from being part of the OWNER: E&J GALLO the fi rst bit of the name coming Harvey got their hands (or Constellation Brands family. from his practice of crushing the feet?) on it in the 1980s – has grapes in person with no shoes grown several times over. It now Barefoot is proof that good or socks on. includes a multitude of varietal wine stories don’t have to be all Today’s volumes have risen and blended white and red still about dusty caves and umpteen to the point where such hands wines, three shades of rosé, a generations of winemakers on – or should that be feet on? dozen or so fi zzes and Barefoot Refresh, a range of single-serve 38 YELLOW TAIL bottled and canned spritzers. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA OWNER: CASELLA FAMILY BRANDS

China is the big export prize 37 ROBERT for many Australian wine MONDAVI producers and it’s a market 35 where Casella’s Yellow Tail is making considerable headway. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: US “China is our fastest growing OWNER: CONSTELLATION BRANDS market,” says global marketing manager Anna Czarnocka. “It is now the biggest export market For many consumers in the for Australian wine and Chinese US and Europe, the name consumers have a real affi nity Robert Mondavi is more closely for Yellow Tail. Our wines are associated with the Napa Valley easy drinking – a good fi t for than that of any other producer. Chinese consumers’ palates.” When the man who gives the The brand’s accessible style is company its name set up his also helping it make strides in the ROYAL TOKAJI winery in Oakville around the To UK, where it was backed last year Kalon vineyard in the 1960s he by its fi rst TV ad campaign. The set about perfecting Sauvignon brand is now claimed to be the COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: HUNGARY Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, third largest Aussie wine by value OWNER: THE ROYAL TOKAJI WINE CO bringing some Californian and the seventh best-selling wine pizzazz to traditional European brand overall in that market. varieties and setting a template “The UK loves the fruit- Sometimes it’s the attention to detail that transforms a wine brand for others to follow. forward New World style and from good to great status. Last year saw the release of the First Director of winemaking the vibrant approachability that Decade wines from Hungary’s fi nest producer, marking the years Genevieve Janssens carries the brand off ers on supermarket immediately aft er the company was founded by Hugh Johnson in the torch for the producer’s shelves,” says Czarnocka. 1990, at the start of a period when the Tokaji industry as a whole commitment to quality and has Yellow Tail is a true 21st was revitalised by private investment. A selection of just 1,746 been serially named in North century brand, having been bottles of historical vintages of Aszú from 1990-1999 was chosen. American’s press polls of the launched as recently as 2001, Every bottle in the cellars was opened and tasted, and 15% of continent’s leading female but already sells 12 million them rejected, then repacked under new corks before leaving the winemakers. Recent creations cases globally each year, with winery. It was also the release year for the 2013 vintage Aszú, the include Maestro, a Bordeaux- the US the biggest of its 50-plus fi rst one made by young head winemaker Fruzsina Osváth. “Our style blend that marked the export markets. limited production doesn’t lend itself to massive expansion into winery’s half century and Last year saw it move its new markets but we have added excellent partners in Argentina whose name plays on the Chardonnay and Sauvignon and Austria to the 30-odd other countries we export to,” says producer and its founder’s Blanc wines into Burgundy- managing director Charles Mount. The winery’s sales leapt up 10% musical connections. Mondavi’s style bottles and launch a Pinot across the globe in 2017, to around 350,000 bottles. summer music festival has been Noir. A Provence style rosé will a fi xture since 1969 and hosted appear in the UK this year.

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CAVIT

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: ITALY OWNER: CO-OPERATIVE

Having just secured a place on one of the lowest rungs of last year’s chart, the Trentino-based co-operative has moved up into the top 40 this year. A collective of 10 wineries and 4,500 grape- growing members, Cavit claims to represent around 60% of the north Italian region’s wine production. Global sales in the 2016/17 financial year were 3% up on the previous year and it claims to have achieved CAGR of around 4% over the past five years. Italy, Russia and the US – where the Roscato brand is strong – are seeing the best sales growth as a result of strategic investment in its core brands, while new rosé and red blends have been introduced to meet millennial tastes. Cavit’s Trentino DOC sparkling wine activity, cashing in on the global demand for value Italian fizz, caught the eye of academy members when it made its first appearance in the list last year.

increase in production and to push the boundaries of a proliferation of labels and what they do, whether it’s 39

brands, which brought market experimenting with the dominance in Tuscany and the Graciano that goes into its ability to trade at all price points Spanish-style Ingenuity red 40 ANTINORI with equal aplomb, from entry blend or working with fruit from 42 EMILIANA level to mega-bucks. new and lesser-known growing Antinori’s empire outside of areas such as the Matroosberg COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: ITALY Italy expanded towards the tail in Ceres and the southern Cape. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: CHILE OWNER: MARCHESI ANTINORI end of 2017 with the outright Commercially, parent OWNER: GUILISASTI FAMILY purchase of Haras de Pirque in company Distell acknowledged Chile’s Maipo Valley, where it notable sales uplifts in Ghana There are few names in Italian had been in a joint venture with and Nigeria in its latest annual Founded in 1986 by Rafael and wine with as much pulling the Matte family since 2013. report, and significant volume José Guilisasti, Emiliana is one power as that of Antinori. growth in Germany and of South America’s hidden gems. Though most closely associated Canada, two of its more mature Producing wine only from its with Tuscany – where it helped export markets. Nederburg own vineyards – 1,550ha across pioneer the concept of Super- made an important contribution Casablanca, Maipo, Bío Bío and Tuscans with Tignanello and to wine portfolio volume growth the Cachapoal and Colchagua broke new ground for quality of approaching 40% in South Valleys of Rapel – its range Cabernet Sauvignon with Solaia 41 NEDERBURG America. includes icon wine Gé, Coyam – it also has vineyard interests The Netherlands and super-premium range, Signos de in regions as diverse as Puglia, Denmark are also strong for Origen premium wines and the Barolo and Franciacorta. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SOUTH AFRICA Nederburg, which is sold in Novas Gran Reserve and Adobe In overseas territories, joint OWNER: DISTELL almost 80 countries all told. Reserve labels. ventures have seen it link up The TV ad from the brand’s But it’s for its early adoption with Ste Michele in Washington recently-launched marketing of organic winemaking and State and Napa, and it also owns The South African brand platform, There’s Always a Story sustainable practices in Chile the Antica brand outright in the continues to go from strength in Nederburg, was voted one that Emiliana gets most flagship Californian region. to strength, both in its of the five best global alcohol recognition. It produced the first Though the family’s vineyards and wineries and commercials by the French- Chilean biodynamic wine in connections with the wine trade in its biggest global markets. based advertising information 2003 and was certified carbon in Italy can be traced back to the Barely an international wine company Adforum. neutral a decade ago. It’s also 14th century, its global megastar competition goes by without Nederburg’s marketing committed to bettering the lot of status didn’t begin to forge until some significant Nederburg links with international its people through committing the 1960s under the stewardship win and cellarmaster cycling continued in 2017 with to fair wages and conditions, of Pietro Antinori. Subsequent Andrea Freeborough and her sponsorship of Team Dimension employee scholarships and decades saw an exponential winemaking team continue Data in the Tour de France. providing staff allotments.

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2014 with the first vintage made of a new production team, in 2015, making the anniversary headed by chief winemaker the first full year that the wine Nigel Westblade. The full was in distribution. revised roll call comprises Louis Latour produces 6m senior winemaker Tim Dolan, 43 LOUIS LATOUR bottles of wine each year, with winemakers Brett Smith and 46 MCGUIGAN the US, France, the UK, Japan Brooke Blair and viticulturalist and Canada providing the Tony Marshall. COUNTRY OF ORGIN: FRANCE principal markets. Last year also saw the launch COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA OWNER: MAISON LOUIS LATOUR Spain, Germany, the US and of an upmarket Shiraz called OWNER: AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE France are current centres of the Barossan and the umbrella heavy growth, the company Lehmann brand rolled out The Burgundy producer reports. updated packaging featuring Few wine brands can boast celebrated its 220th anniversary A first for the company in its a new logo. It was backed by quite as many international in 2017. The most recent of those celebratory year was the use a global marketing campaign awards as McGuigan, the years have seen the family- of candles in its vineyards to under the theme: ‘It takes a Australian wine brand headed owned producer increasingly fight the spring frost which village to raise a vintage.’ by Australian Vintage’s strike a balance between hammered so many wine- The campaign launched in charismatic chief executive, traditional values and modern producing regions in Europe. Australia and is being rolled Neil McGuigan. ways of doing business to build out further. “It celebrates The company’s latest annual a robust international brand. our Barossan winemaking report records 425 awards The company is currently in community and the mark it in 2016 alone, including 27 the stewardship of Louis-Fabrice leave son each and every bottle trophies. It is the only winery Latour, the seventh Louis in a of Peter Lehmann,” says brand to be named the International winemaking lineage that is now manager Lisa O’Neill. Wine & Spirit Competition’s into its 11th generation. Under 44 PETER LEHMANN Australia is the biggest International Winemaker of his leadership it has bought market for the 600,000 cases the Year on four occasions and Maison Simmonet-Febvre in that the brand sells annually, was the Australian Winery of Chablis and Maison Henry COUNTRY OF ORGIN: AUSTRALIA followed by the US, Canada and the Year in the 2017 New York Fessy in Beaujolais. It has also OWNER: CASELLA FAMILY BRANDS the UK. In the domestic market, International Wine Competition. developed Les Pierres Dorées, a says O’Neill “premium price That was a timely win as varietal project that brings Pinot points are experiencing strong the year saw McGuigan sign Noir production to the southern Peter Lehmann enters the growth, particularly AU$20-30”. a new distribution agreement part of Beaujolais, more usually Most Admired wine list after She adds: “The Barossan with Palm Bay, which led to the associated with the Gamay a busy 12 months for the has become the fourth largest introduction of McGuigan’s The grape. Vineyards were uprooted premium Barossa Valley Shiraz at this price point within Plan brand into the US market and replanted between 2012 and brand. It saw the appointment seven months of launch.” in January 2018.

KWV

COUNTRY OF ORGIN: SOUTH AFRICA OWNER: VASARI GROUP

Bought two years ago by Vasari, the UK-based investment firm headed by former Whyte & Mackay chief executive Vivien 45 Imerman, KWV makes an appropriate return to the Most Admired list in 2018, its centenary year. The company was founded as a co-operative in the same year as Nelson Mandela was born. In the Apartheid era it served a dual purpose as both wine producer and industry regulator, but the latter role fell away with regime change. It later became part of the HCI black empowerment investment group until the Vasari deal. “In terms of new global markets, we are now exporting to Russia, where we have a key local partner on the ground who drives marketing and distribution in that market,” says CEO Boyce Lloyd. “For some years KWV did not participate in the UK market, however in the past three years we’ve made a concerted effort to get a quality local partner, which we now have in place, and this relationship is working well for us.”

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founded by Wyndham Hill- has tended the vines in South in Ireland, and the leading Smith exactly 60 years ago. Australia for 36 years. During premium brand in Brazil, where Last year saw the release in that Burnell’s time in the Oxford growth is running at more than market of Marty’s Block, billed Landing vineyards, the brand 20%. Canada and Denmark are as the first piece of innovation has built an international also significant volume export 47 OXFORD from the brand to reach British reputation for good value for markets for Santa Rita. LANDING shores in 25 years. money and the consistent The launch was backed by quality of its wines, made from social media activity that urged grapes grown on the banks of COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA consumers to “have a drink the Murray River. In the UK it OWNER: THE HILL-SMITH FAMILY with Marty”. is one of the leading brands in The range of two reds and the premium £6-£10 bracket two whites – Tempranillo, and thus plays an important 50 CHÂTEAU The UK has long been an Shiraz/Cabernet, Chardonnay role in contributing to the MOUTON important market for the and Viognier – are named in overall quality message around ROTHSCHILD Yalumba sister brand that was honour of Marty Burnell, who Australian wines. The brand markets internationally around food COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: FRANCE links and an ethos of “keeping OWNER: ROTHSCHILD it real”.

Last year marked the 70th anniversary of the start of Château Mouton Rothschild’s ongoing project to invite famous artists to illustrate the label for 49 SANTA RITA its wine. This time it was the turn of abstract painter Gerhard Richter to come up with the COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: CHILE label for the 2015 vintage, which OWNER: GRUPO CLARO layers swirling fields of colour on a photograph, according to the producer, “taken at the ideal It’s been a busy past time moment of their composition, recently for the Chilean just as a harmonious blend producer founded by Domingo gives a great wine its balance Fernández Concha way back in and fullness”. TOKARA 48 1880. Pinot Grigio and Malbec Richter joins an illustrious were added to its 120 tier of list that includes Salvador Dali, wines, selling 100,000 cases in Jean Cocteau, Henry Moore, COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: SOUTH AFRICA the first year, while a limited- Georges Braque, Wassily OWNER: GT AND ANNE-MARIE FERREIRA edition 50th anniversary 120 Kandinsky, Joan Miró, Marc super-premium Cabernet Chagall, Andy Warhol, Francis Sauvignon was released in Chile Bacon, Keith Haring, Lucian It’s only 15 years since the first wine was released under the and main export markets. Freud, Anish Kapoor and some Tokara label, just under a decade after banker GT Ferreira bought At the ultra-premium level fella called Prince Charles. his first vineyards on the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in it added Floresta Field Blend It’s an approach which Stellenbosch. It makes flagship Bordeaux-style red and white Blanco, made with fruit from certainly gives Mouton wines and last year added a Méthode Cap Classique Blanc de dry-farmed old bush vines, Rothschild a distinctive look Blanc from cool climate vineyards in Elgin, plus limited release combining Semillon, Moscato, in a field of top-end clarets 2015 Grenache and Pinotage from tiny parcels of quality grapes. Sauvignon Vert and Sauvignon that tend to conform to a Overall production from just 68ha of Stellenbosch vineyards Blanc varieties. The Floresata certain design aesthetic, and and 20ha in Elgin is limited to 60,000 cases a year, which gives project aims to explore small it’s perhaps fitting given the its wines a premium cachet and price points. Its largest export blocks of vineyards that stand producer’s late arrival to the first markets are the Netherlands, the UK, Germany and the US and it out for their soil and climate. growth top table. has entered the Czech Republic and Kenya in the past 18 months. Global growth has been It was only elevated to the “China is a new market for us and is in the early stages,” running at 7% over the past year, status in 1973 having been left says general manager Karl Lambour, “but has the potential to with the biggest recent successes out of the original Bordeaux grow based on the appreciation of our brand, the styling of our coming in the UK, Ireland, Brazil, classification of 1855 in offering and our core values. Japan, the US and China. It is controversial circumstances, “At the heart of the Tokara project is our enviable terroir coupled claimed to be the number one Baron Philippe de Rothschild with loyal team players that results in consistent quality.” Chilean brand in the on-trade, reputedly calling it a the top wine brand of any sort “monstrous injustice”.

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THE LIST

1 TORRES NON-MOVER 25 TIGNANELLO UP 4 ▲ 2 CONCHA Y TORO NON-MOVER 26 GEORGES UP 1 ▲ 3 PENFOLDS NON-MOVER DUBOEUF 4 YALUMBA UP 12 ▲ 27 OYSTER BAY UP 19 ▲ 5 ERRAZURIZ NON-MOVER 28 BARTON & RE-ENTRY GUESTIER 6 M CHAPOUTIER UP 2 ▲ 29 SASSICAIA DOWN 14 ▼ 7 RIDGE NON-MOVER 30 CANTI NEW ENTRY ★ 8 VILLA MARIA UP 4 ▲ 31 JACOB’S CREEK DOWN 6 ▼ 9 FELTON ROAD UP 4 ▲ 32 CHÂTEAU LATOUR UP 1 ▲ 10 E GUIGAL DOWN 4 ▼ 33 CODORNÍU DOWN 10 ▼ 11 CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM UP 11 ▲ 34 INNISKILLIN RE-ENTRY 12 CAMPO VIEJO UP 5 ▲ 35 ROYAL TOKAJI DOWN 9 ▼ 13 VEGA SICILIA DOWN 1 ▼ 36 BAREFOOT RE-ENTRY 14 CLOUDY BAY ▲ UP 10 37 ROBERT MONDAVI DOWN 17 ▼ 15 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ▲ UP 25 38 YELLOWTAIL UP 7 ▲ 16 MARQUÉS DE RE-ENTRY RISCAL 39 CAVIT UP 8 ▲ 17 CHÂTEAU MUSAR UP 1 ▲ 40 ANTINORI RE-ENTRY 18 CONO SUR RE-ENTRY 41 NEDERBURG DOWN 5 ▼ 19 CHÂTEAU PETRUS DOWN 5 ▼ 42 EMILIANA NEW ENTRY ★ 43 LOUIS LATOUR DOWN 24 ▼ 20 CHÂTEAU DOWN 11 ▼ MARGAUX 44 PETER LEHMANN RE-ENTRY 21 CHÂTEAU CHEVAL ▲ 45 KWV RE-ENTRY BLANC UP 14 46 MCGUIGAN DOWN 9 ▼ 22 CHÂTEAU HAUT- ▲ BRION UP 1 47 OXFORD LANDING RE-ENTRY 48 TOKARA NEW ENTRY ★ 23 MARQUÉS DE UP 7 ▲ CÁCERES 49 SANTA RITA RE-ENTRY 24 TRAPICHE UP 20 ▲ 50 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ▼ ROTHSCHILD DOWN 9

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