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Robert Rolls Burgundy En Primeur Offer 2020 Vintages 2017 and 2018

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Robert Rolls Burgundy En Primeur Offer 2020 Vintages 2017 and 2018 1 Robert Rolls Burgundy En Primeur Offer 2020 Vintages 2017 and 2018 Vintage Summary 2018 – The times, are they a-changing? The one word we heard more than any other while tasting the 2018s was ‘solar’, meaning warm, hot, influenced by the sun. Whether the 2018 vintage goes down as an outlier or the new normal remains to be seen, but what we do know is it was the warmest year since 2003, with sustained temperatures above 30c for much of July and August. Comparisons with that previous ‘solar’ vintage are inevitable, but it is in the differences between the two years, specifically the availability of water, where we find the most enlightenment on the character of 2018 and its wines. 2018 began with a wet winter, which would prove vital as the season progressed and temperatures rose. The wet winter filled aquifers and soaked into the clay meaning the vineyards had water reserves and the vines, with their deep roots, didn’t experience the hydric stress of 2003; in turn this meant that ripening could continue uninterrupted. Under drought conditions vines can stop photosynthesising, which in turn stops the fruit from ripening and can lead to harsh, green tannins in the eventual wines. I would say that this was the major quality factor in 2018 and the most important condition that sets it apart from 2003. Although sugar levels were high, well managed vineyards were able to achieve good phenolic ripeness before the acidities dropped too drastically. Picking date, perhaps the single most important decision of a vigneron’s year, was more important than ever, a matter of two days could see a 1-2% rise in potential alcohol. Conversely, picking too early risks under ripe tannins in the wine. It is a fine balancing act and of course not everyone trod that wire. The whites began to be picked at the end of August, with the reds the week after. Conditions at harvest remained hot; how to work with warm fruit, or how to cool that fruit, is something the Burgundians have had to learn about quickly. Yields were good, surprisingly so, the grapes contained more juice than many were expecting, and 2018 is the largest harvest for some time. Due to the heat the grapes had thick skins, so it was important to extract gently or run the risk of making overly tannic wines. It is difficult to generalise about a year where such small margins of time and practice have had such big effects on the wines. It is undoubtably a heterogeneous vintage. At their best however the 2018 whites are ripe, textural wines which nevertheless have fresh acidity and saline minerality. They should be attractive young and most will be ready before the 2016s and 2017s. The reds are also ripe and relatively full bodied, but the best are well balanced and concentrated with brilliantly pure fruit and fine if firm tannins. Many of the village wines will show well early on, but the best 1er Cru and Grand Cru will need considerable time to shed their youthful structure and reveal their site and inner character. Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected] 2 2017 After a mild winter bud break came early to the Cote d’Or and with it the risk of frost. Happily, the devastation of 2016 was largely avoided. Flowering was successful, and the more optimistic growers began to hope for a ‘normal’ harvest after years of low yields. Summer continued warm and dry. There was little disease pressure and, although rain was scarce, not much drought either outside of the younger vines. A few localised hailstorms affected some vineyards. As Pierre-Jean Roty said, it was a vintage that threatened problems but ultimately was trouble free. Conditions at harvest were good and settled so domaines could choose when to go. Yields were the best since 2009, a welcome change for many whose cellars had been underfilled for the best part of a decade. The 2017 whites continue to impress. We have the wines from Domaine Buisson-Battault in the offer, Francois only sells once he has bottled, don’t miss them, they are fantastic. The 2017 reds are lighter and fresher than either of the two previous vintages, they have a cool fruit bite and poise which recalls 2014, although the 17s are richer. Comparisons to 2007 and 2000 have both been made and are fair. Although they won’t be as long lived as the preceding vintages, they will provide much pleasure relatively early and mature well over the medium term and beyond. As wise people know, Burgundy need not be rich or tannic to work its magic in bottle; I wonder if we will look back at 2017, with its elegant, classical style, as a fine vintage indeed. Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected] 3 In this offer: Domaine Vintage Page Irancy Maison de la Chapelle, La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne 2018s p4 Côte Mâconnais Domaine Giles Morat, Vergisson *New* 2018s p5 Côte Chalonnaise Domaine Tupinier-Bautista Mercurey *New* 2018s p6 Côte de Beaune Domaine Buisson Battault, Meursault 2017s p7 Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot, Meursault 2018s p8 Domaine Cholet Pelletier, Corcelles les Arts *New* 2018s p9 Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 2018s p10 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint Aubin 2018s p11 Côte de Nuits Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin 2017s p12 Domaine Harmand Geoffroy, Gevrey-Chambertin *New* 2017s p13 Domaine Hubert Lignier, Morey St Denis 2017s p14 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 2018s p16 Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot (CLF), Flagey-Echézeaux 2018s p18 The wines in this offer are priced per case In Bond (IB), ex UK Duty and VAT. Please turn to the back for an explanation of how this works regarding delivery. Alternatively call us of 0203 215 0011 or email [email protected] to discuss. To order any of the wines in this offer, or if we can help with recommendations, please call 0203 215 0011 or email [email protected]. Thank you, Robert, Jack and Ele Robert Rolls & Co January 2020 Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected] 4 Irancy Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy The second vintage we have shipped from Delphine and Gregory, one of the new wave of domaines currently attracting attention to the vineyards of Irancy. The single vineyard wines sold out quickly last year, and the village has found its way onto some of London’s finest lists. The cool northerly vineyards of Irancy do well in warm years, giving the wines an extra depth and intensity. Gregory described 2018 as the best vintage they have seen so far. Winter and early spring were wet, but by flowering conditions had become warm and dry and the fruit set was excellent. The scorching summer was saved by the available water in the ground, and ripening was smooth and untroubled. They harvested on Friday the 7th and Saturday the 8th of September (the joy of a small domaine!), amongst the first in the village to do so. They aim to produce juicy and generous wines with out sacrificing freshness or precision, a fine balance in a precocious vintage. Irancy 2018 £69.00/6 IB A blend of four climats, Paradis, Renouel, Beaux Monts and Bâtardes from vines aged between 30 and 50 years. Completely destemmed and 100% raised in old barrels. Quite rich in 2018, with dark cherry, raspberry and violet fruit, a textured, rich palate balanced by fresh acidity and a cool graphite minerality on the finish. Really quite serious, certainly worth five years in the cellar, probably more. Irancy Les Beaux Monts 2018 £90.00/6 IB 35-year-old vines planted on a steeply sloping south facing site, thin clay over Kimmeridgian limestone. 30% whole bunches. 3- & 4-year-old barrels. Les Beaux Monts is refined, beautifully textured and balanced. 2018 has given it more power, but not at the expense of structure, there is a good line of acidity and well-integrated sweet tannin here as well. Always so floral on the finish. Irancy Les Bâtardes 2018 £90.00/6 IB 30-year-old vines planted on a north west facing slope. 30% whole bunches. 3- & 4-year-old barrels. Very fine, ethereal wine, exceptionally perfumed and elegant, with powder fine tannins, very little fat yet a huge sense of energy and life. If you will forgive me a little poetic licence, it reminds me of a summer garden as evening comes, roses, violets and jasmine, the perfumes of the day changing to the night. Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected] 5 Côte Mâconnais Domaine Giles Morat, Vergisson *NEW* Based in Vergisson, the highest village in the appellation, Giles and his wife Joëlle run Domaine Giles Morat, aiming to produce wines which combine the Mâconnais’ ripe, sun kissed fruit with a modern directness and freshness. Morat own 6ha of vineyards, 1.5 in St Veran, the rest, divided into 17 parcels, are in Pouilly-Fuissé. The domaine has been certified organic since 2001. Grass and wildflowers grow in the vines, the rows are ploughed when needed. All the vineyard work is done by hand, the domaine’s small size means that everything can be completed with exacting precision.
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