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Robert Rolls Burgundy En Primeur Offer 2020 2017 and 2018

Vintage Summary

2018 – The times, are they a-changing? The one word we heard more than any other while tasting the 2018s was ‘solar’, meaning warm, hot, influenced by the sun. Whether the 2018 goes down as an outlier or the new normal remains to be seen, but what we do know is it was the warmest year since 2003, with sustained temperatures above 30c for much of July and August. Comparisons with that previous ‘solar’ vintage are inevitable, but it is in the differences between the two years, specifically the availability of water, where we find the most enlightenment on the character of 2018 and its .

2018 began with a wet winter, which would prove vital as the season progressed and temperatures rose. The wet winter filled aquifers and soaked into the clay meaning the vineyards had water reserves and the vines, with their deep roots, didn’t experience the hydric stress of 2003; in turn this meant that ripening could continue uninterrupted. Under drought conditions vines can stop photosynthesising, which in turn stops the fruit from ripening and can lead to harsh, green tannins in the eventual wines. I would say that this was the major quality factor in 2018 and the most important condition that sets it apart from 2003. Although sugar levels were high, well managed vineyards were able to achieve good phenolic ripeness before the acidities dropped too drastically. Picking date, perhaps the single most important decision of a vigneron’s year, was more important than ever, a matter of two days could see a 1-2% rise in potential alcohol. Conversely, picking too early risks under ripe tannins in the . It is a fine balancing act and of course not everyone trod that wire.

The whites began to be picked at the end of August, with the reds the week after. Conditions at harvest remained hot; how to work with warm fruit, or how to cool that fruit, is something the Burgundians have had to learn about quickly. Yields were good, surprisingly so, the grapes contained more juice than many were expecting, and 2018 is the largest harvest for some time. Due to the heat the grapes had thick skins, so it was important to extract gently or run the risk of making overly tannic wines.

It is difficult to generalise about a year where such small margins of time and practice have had such big effects on the wines. It is undoubtably a heterogeneous vintage. At their best however the 2018 whites are ripe, textural wines which nevertheless have fresh acidity and saline minerality. They should be attractive young and most will be ready before the 2016s and 2017s. The reds are also ripe and relatively full bodied, but the best are well balanced and concentrated with brilliantly pure fruit and fine if firm tannins. Many of the village wines will show well early on, but the best 1er Cru and Grand Cru will need considerable time to shed their youthful structure and reveal their site and inner character.

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2017 After a mild winter bud break came early to the Cote d’Or and with it the risk of frost. Happily, the devastation of 2016 was largely avoided. Flowering was successful, and the more optimistic growers began to hope for a ‘normal’ harvest after years of low yields. Summer continued warm and dry. There was little disease pressure and, although rain was scarce, not much drought either outside of the younger vines. A few localised hailstorms affected some vineyards. As Pierre-Jean Roty said, it was a vintage that threatened problems but ultimately was trouble free. Conditions at harvest were good and settled so domaines could choose when to go. Yields were the best since 2009, a welcome change for many whose cellars had been underfilled for the best part of a decade.

The 2017 whites continue to impress. We have the wines from Domaine Buisson-Battault in the offer, Francois only sells once he has bottled, don’t miss them, they are fantastic. The 2017 reds are lighter and fresher than either of the two previous vintages, they have a cool fruit bite and poise which recalls 2014, although the 17s are richer. Comparisons to 2007 and 2000 have both been made and are fair. Although they won’t be as long lived as the preceding vintages, they will provide much pleasure relatively early and mature well over the medium term and beyond. As wise people know, Burgundy need not be rich or tannic to work its magic in bottle; I wonder if we will look back at 2017, with its elegant, classical style, as a fine vintage indeed.

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In this offer:

Domaine Vintage Page

Irancy Maison de la Chapelle, La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne 2018s p4

Côte Mâconnais Domaine Giles Morat, Vergisson *New* 2018s p5

Côte Chalonnaise Domaine Tupinier-Bautista Mercurey *New* 2018s p6

Côte de Beaune Domaine Buisson Battault, Meursault 2017s p7 Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot, Meursault 2018s p8 Domaine Cholet Pelletier, Corcelles les Arts *New* 2018s p9 Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 2018s p10 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint Aubin 2018s p11

Côte de Nuits Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin 2017s p12 Domaine Harmand Geoffroy, Gevrey-Chambertin *New* 2017s p13 Domaine Hubert Lignier, Morey St Denis 2017s p14 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 2018s p16 Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot (CLF), Flagey-Echézeaux 2018s p18

The wines in this offer are priced per case In Bond (IB), ex UK Duty and VAT. Please turn to the back for an explanation of how this works regarding delivery. Alternatively call us of 0203 215 0011 or email [email protected] to discuss.

To order any of the wines in this offer, or if we can help with recommendations, please call 0203 215 0011 or email [email protected].

Thank you,

Robert, Jack and Ele

Robert Rolls & Co January 2020

Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected] 4

Irancy Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy The second vintage we have shipped from Delphine and Gregory, one of the new wave of domaines currently attracting attention to the vineyards of Irancy. The single vineyard wines sold out quickly last year, and the village has found its way onto some of London’s finest lists. The cool northerly vineyards of Irancy do well in warm years, giving the wines an extra depth and intensity. Gregory described 2018 as the best vintage they have seen so far. Winter and early spring were wet, but by flowering conditions had become warm and dry and the fruit set was excellent. The scorching summer was saved by the available water in the ground, and ripening was smooth and untroubled. They harvested on Friday the 7th and Saturday the 8th of September (the joy of a small domaine!), amongst the first in the village to do so. They aim to produce juicy and generous wines with out sacrificing freshness or precision, a fine balance in a precocious vintage.

Irancy 2018 £69.00/6 IB A blend of four climats, Paradis, Renouel, Beaux Monts and Bâtardes from vines aged between 30 and 50 years. Completely destemmed and 100% raised in old barrels. Quite rich in 2018, with dark cherry, raspberry and violet fruit, a textured, rich palate balanced by fresh acidity and a cool graphite minerality on the finish. Really quite serious, certainly worth five years in the cellar, probably more.

Irancy Les Beaux Monts 2018 £90.00/6 IB 35-year-old vines planted on a steeply sloping south facing site, thin clay over Kimmeridgian limestone. 30% whole bunches. 3- & 4-year-old barrels. Les Beaux Monts is refined, beautifully textured and balanced. 2018 has given it more power, but not at the expense of structure, there is a good line of acidity and well-integrated sweet tannin here as well. Always so floral on the finish.

Irancy Les Bâtardes 2018 £90.00/6 IB 30-year-old vines planted on a north west facing slope. 30% whole bunches. 3- & 4-year-old barrels. Very fine, ethereal wine, exceptionally perfumed and elegant, with powder fine tannins, very little fat yet a huge sense of energy and life. If you will forgive me a little poetic licence, it reminds me of a summer garden as evening comes, roses, violets and jasmine, the perfumes of the day changing to the night.

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Côte Mâconnais Domaine Giles Morat, Vergisson *NEW* Based in Vergisson, the highest village in the appellation, Giles and his wife Joëlle run Domaine Giles Morat, aiming to produce wines which combine the Mâconnais’ ripe, sun kissed fruit with a modern directness and freshness. Morat own 6ha of vineyards, 1.5 in St Veran, the rest, divided into 17 parcels, are in Pouilly-Fuissé. The domaine has been certified organic since 2001. Grass and wildflowers grow in the vines, the rows are ploughed when needed. All the vineyard work is done by hand, the domaine’s small size means that everything can be completed with exacting precision. In the winery fermentations happen in vat or barrel and use natural yeasts. Very little is done, intervention is kept to a minimum, new used sparingly, to allow each terroir to show its full potential.

Summer in Vergisson was as hot as elsewhere, but the wet winter and early spring had given the vines resilience against drought, and a little rain in August also helped things along, retaining acidity and freshness. In 2018 they began harvesting on the 1st of September, bringing in a good crop of beautifully healthy grapes with potential alcohols of around 12.7-13%. The wines here are lovely, they show ripe fruit but have plenty of balancing acidity and chalky structure. A welcome addition to our range.

Saint-Veran 2018 £69.00/6 IB Several south facing plots, on poor limestone soils, planted 1959-1983, at an average altitude of 300ms. Fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel to give a refreshing, fruit forward wine which drinks well from the word go. Bottled in April after the harvest. The 2018 shows crisply energetic apple and apricot fruit, nice bite and tension and finishes with a twist of citrus.

Pouilly-Fuissé Terres du Menhir 2018 £90.00/6 IB Fans of Asterix will know what the name means. For those Tin Tin readers among you a Menhir is an ancient standing stone. A selection of plots from around Vergisson between 300-350 m’s altitude, from vines of a minimum of 25 years old. Fermented and aged in 60% vat and 40% barrel, none of which are new. A textbook Pouilly-Fuissé, with its nose of Apricot, citrus and stone fruit leading to a well concentrated palate supported by zippy acids. A wine that is marvellously easy to drink.

Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Vignes Dessus 2018 £96.00/6 IB Sitting at the top of a south facing slope these vines, planted in 1981, grow on Triassic Clay, an ancient blue clay that pre-dates the limestone found elsewhere in the village. Rich in magnesium, it is, Joëlle says, highly valued both for its drought and rot resisting properties as well as for the freshness and minerality they feel it brings to the wines. Fermented in barrel, just 15% new. The nose shows white peach, delicate floral and nut aromas and a touch of fennel. It comes alive in the mouth, with a line of acidity, spice and grip that gives a light-footed sense to its concentrated fruit core. Real presence and length marks this as something special. A touch of oak on the nose makes me think a couple of years in the bottle would be of benefit, but delicious now for those too impatient to wait.

Pouilly-Fuissé Sur la Roche 2018 £108.00/6 IB Magnums £240.00/6 IB Perhaps the best vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé and a candidate for 1er Cru when the vineyards get reclassified next year, Sur la Roche covers 17ha and is shared between several growers. Domaine Morat have a great parcel, right at the top of the slope where the high-quality clay barely covers the limestone beneath. Vines planted between 1967 and 1978 with roots deep in the bed rock. 100% in oak, 15% new. Bottled after 11 months on its lees. With its seamless palate and breezy acidity this wine put me in mind of bright sunshine on a cold spring day, contrasting the warm site and the cool rock below. Finishes with a burst of pink grapefruit.

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Côte Chalonnaise Domaine Tupinier-Bautista Mercurey *NEW* Manu Bautista is an engaging man to taste with. A whirlwind of gestures, snorts, laughter and general enthusiasm, it is clear he enjoys tasting his wines as much as making them. The domaine has recently moved from cramped old cellars in the village to a beautiful modern winery surrounded by vines. It is a mark of Manu’s character that he has built a swimming pool outside his tasting room. Manu described 2018 as solar, but more moderate than extreme, the lack of drought meant ripening was smooth and uninterrupted. He began harvesting reds in the first couple of days of September. Everything is hand harvested, and the grapes are destemmed before a 15 day fermentation. The village and 1er Crus see a year in barrel. His wines are delicious, richly fruited and exuberant with fine structure and plenty of energy, they drink at 3-5 years but continue to improve in the cellar for longer. The 1er Cru Vellées shows an extra tautness and finesse from the old vines and limestone soil, it is cool and fresh despite 2018s warmth.

Bourgogne Rouge 2018 £63.00/6 IB 100% in barrel, but no new wood, for ten months before blending then two months in vat before bottling. Ripe yet savoury raspberry and black cherry fruit, good concentration and fine tannins. Pleasingly rustic, lots of extract and presence for a Bourgogne and a sappy freshness on the finish. Great value. 2020+

Mercurey Vieilles Vignes 2018 £87.00/6 IB A single plot of 50 year old vines growing on a south east facing slope. Perfumed dark cherry and a touch of mint. Mouth filling attack, layers of sweet dark fruit, good freshness and shape, quite taut, a sense of sap in the grippy structure. Lots of exuberant potential here. 2022+

Mercurey Clos du Touches 2018 £99.00/6 IB Cassis and mulberry, utterly delicious nose. Cool yet ripe dark fruit, pure, pleasing, with fine structure and a charcoal note on the finish. This will drink well young on its fruit, just lovely. 2021+

Mercurey 1er Cru Les Vellées Vieilles Vignes 2018 £126.00/6 IB 30-40 year old vines growing on a south facing slope which Manu says has very good limestone underneath. Dark red fruits, almost liquor like, with delicate floral notes as well. Less open than the Clos des Touches, finer and tighter, grippy little tannins and a cherry stone finish of considerable length. Serious stuff and this will certainly need five or more years. 2023++

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Cote de Beaune Domaine Buisson Battault, Meursault After the hard work and tiny yields of the previous vintage, 2017 was a relief, with little frost or hail. In Francois’ words the wines are ‘Crystal & Saline’. He feels Chardonnay is at its best in vintages where yields are naturally generous. Francois gives his wines 12 months in barrel, around 20% new, before moving them to tank along with their fine lees for at least six months. He doesn’t use bâtonnage, preferring the slow enrichment that comes with extended lees contact. We were so impressed by many 2017 whites last year, feeling them to have 2014s wonderful energy and zip coupled with a little more richness and intensity, so we were looking forward to tasting the Buisson- Battault wines once in bottle. They are terrific, with the domaine’s characteristic depth and breadth balancing the fine, crystalline acidity.

The only downside is we never have enough!

Meursault Limozin 2017 £171.00/6 IB Plantings from 1928 and 1986 in this vineyard beneath Genevrières. Ripe lemon and butter. A little nutty breadth. Good weight, plenty of extract here alongside crisp acids. Salt, a touch of smoke. Floral detail on the finish, rich yet balanced.

Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2017 £237.00/6 IB Oldest vines from 1964. One plot, half in Charmes-Dessus, and half in the flatter part below, Charmes-Dessous. A jump in complexity and detail on the nose. Quite firm attack, super concentration, fleshy mid palate then grip, structure and a fine line of acidity; finishes with a giant mouthful of pineapple and peach, ringing one’s senses.

Meursault 1er Cru Goutte D’Or 2017 £237.00/6 IB The most northern of the Meursault 1er Crus, the Buisson vines are in two plots on the sloped part. Four plantings here ranging from 1955 to 2005. Red apple nose. Broad and relatively rich on the attack, before a bite of acidity streamlines things and carries through to a long finish, fanning out with notes of apricot, hazelnut and honey alongside a flinty tautness. Remarkably silky texture, seamless.

Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2017 £237.00/6 IB Savoury, saline nose, a wine of the ground, rich yet tense. Really textured and mouth filling, broad shouldered, dense and powerful; one can see why Francois shows this after the Genevrières, it is relatively impenetrable today, but the sense of potential and bound-up energy is clear. In a funny way it reminds me of young Chablis Grand Cru – Les Preuses perhaps.

Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières 2017 246.00/6 IB One plot of vines in the more steeply sloped upper part, Genevrières Dessus, the oldest planted in 1950. A serious, mineral wine, compact and taut, with air it opens to show a spectrum of fruit and flowers, expansive and complex, very long, well-structured and balanced between racy acids and a silky, stylish texture. A terrific wine. Francois says he always thinks of pink grapefruit when he tastes this, and it certainly has that mouth-watering yet thirst quenching character.

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Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot, Meursault Rodolphe largely built his domaine himself, from a few plots inherited from his family to the 10ha he works today. Over time he stopped using chemicals and began to work in an old fashioned, manual way, using a horse to plough some of his vineyards. He now works organically and uses the biodynamic calander to inform his decisions. He specialises in single vineyard wines, carefully choosing sites which have a distinctive character. His winemaking is designed to let each vineyard shine, and a tasting here is always a dive into terroir. He destems, fermentations run to around three weeks and he extracts as gently as possible, aiming for elegance over power. He uses little new oak, around 20% for most wines, up to 30% for his Pommard. When his wines are in barrel they aren’t racked again until just before bottling. This is also when they see their first sulphur; Rodolphe aims to give the wines every opportunity to develop complexity. A talented wine maker, his wines show complex aromatics that range through fruit, flowers and minerals. These are, in my mind, the mark of fine Pinot Noir. These aren’t big or overly dense wines, they are subtle and elegant but they age well, Rodolphe has poured us wines from 2005 and 2008 which were only just hitting their stride and we intend to start holding back some stock in the Rolls cellar.

Monthélie La Combe Danay 2018 £108.00/6 IB The planting here runs over a dip in the slope, giving some vines an almost northerly aspect, the rest face south. Gives a tension between coolness and ripeness and adds another dimension to the wine. Red fruited, sweet and still crisp. Well structured, with freshness to balance the ripeness and concentration at its core.

Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Bourgeots £108.00/6 IB Les Bourgeots sits on a sandy and gravelly patch below the 1er Cru Les Dominodes. Really old vines here, mostly planted in 1949. It’s recognised as a top village site, Bize have much of their village Savigny here. 20% new oak. Elegant stony red fruits. A balanced, harmonious wine that shows good freshness in 2018, the sandy soils give a lightness that counteracts the warmth of the vintage.

Beaune Les Beaux Fougets £126.00/6 IB 40-year-old vines lying down slope from the 1er Cru Boucherottes close to the Pommard border. South east facing. The deep red clay here gives a structured wine with firm tannins and good fruit concentration. Ripe this year but retaining a sappy lift which is very attractive. Tannins really build in the mouth, probably the wine which will need the most time.

Pommard Les Vignots £198.00/6IB From a south facing site, high up the slope and looking at Volnay and Meursault, 36 year-old vines which Rodolphe says sit in a slight hollow, giving shelter from the wind. The soil here is very thin and this is a tender, relatively delicate Pommard. Always perfumed, sweet dark cherry and a mint note. Fine if firm tannins and fresh acidity is here to support the ripe fruit and this finishes with a sense of cherries and their stones.

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Domaine Cholet Pelletier, Corcelles les Arts *NEW* Florence Cholet took over fully here when her father retired last year, so 2018 is her second vintage in charge. Florence, widely travelled, she has worked across France, the US and Australia, is an ambitious and intelligent wine maker. The domaine no longer uses pesticides or herbicides, the vineyards are ploughed, and all picking is done by hand. The grapes are whole bunch pressed in a Vaslin press, settled at 16c and then transferred with the fine lees to barrel for fermentation. Since 2017 fermentations have used wild yeasts. No bâtonage is carried out after the Malolactic fermentation has finished and Florence racks little, she wants to keep as much CO2 in the wine as possible, reducing the need for sulphur additions. The wines are bottled with no filtration. I am convinced Florence is a star in the making. She is articulate and thoughtful, she has deftly handled the conditions of 2018 and her passion for her vines is obvious. Interestingly she is part of the group Mi- Fille, Mi-Raisin, a collective of young female winemakers featuring some of Burgundy’s brightest young talents.

White Bourgogne Blanc Cote d’Or 2018 £69.00/6 IB This new appellation designates regional level wines which come solely from vineyards in the Cote d’Or, excluding the Haut Cotes and other areas. Florence has two parcels of Bourgogne Blanc, Les Parties and Les Equinzes, both lying just outside the Puligny boundaries. At 13% this wine, full of juicy, fleshy white peach and grapefruit is light and refreshing while having the mouthfeel and texture of a village level wine. It is delicious and would make a great house white in 2020 and 2021.

Puligny-Montrachet 2018 £152.00/6 IB The domaine has 1ha of vines divided between Les Enseignères, Les Levrons and La Rouselle. 15% new oak and 13% ABV. Recently bottled and somewhat shy on the nose, this opens on the palate with white flowers and succulent peach fruit, a savoury nuttiness and great depth and persistence with undertones of chalk and salinity. A little lime shows amongst the floral finish, good vigour, a satisfying Puligny of real heart.

Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 2018 £180.00/6 IB Produced from 85-year-old vines planted just below Bâtard-Montrachet. One of the finest village vineyards in Puligny. The 2018 shows more lift and perfume on the nose, seems both more powerful and tighter on the palate and one can feel the old vines in its concentration. Super texture, notes of hazelnut, supported by racy, mineral acidity that carries the vintages breadth well.

Red St Romain Rouge 2018 £87.00/6 IB 50-year-old vines in the Sous la Velle vineyard, steeply sloped and facing south-east. This isn’t a wine for long ageing, favouring freshness and joie de vivre rather than concentration and structure, Florence thinks best around four or five years from vintage. Glorious colour. The nose a super perfumed melange of red berries and flowers. Very pure, high quality fruit, crystalline, fine powdered chalk tannin, lovely acids to balance and refresh. Glassy berry fruit floods back on the finish. Simply a delicious wine, the kind to put a smile on one’s face.

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Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet A pleasure to meet and taste with Michel Niellon’s granddaughter Marlène Coutoux for the first time. She is now at the domaine full time having completed her travels and education, focussing on the domaine’s reds.

The quality factor in 2018, we were told, was the high water table going into the summer, which prevented drought and stress to the vines and meant that acidity was retained despite the heat. Harvest started on the 31st of August, producing a good crop of healthy grapes. Ripe, yes, but balanced, harmonious wines which look to continue the recent run of fine vintages here. The wines feel richer, denser than the 2017s, but they don’t lack freshness. The Niellon patch of Bâtard-Montrachet remains fallow, planted with a mix of grasses and wildflowers beneficial to the soil. It should be planted in 2021. The Chevalier is unfortunately very limited.

The team at Domaine Niellon, led by Michel Coutoux, have made a run of great vintages recently. In the words of Dr William Kelley in “This is a domaine in fine form today, and readers who have fallen out of touch with the wines are advised to reacquaint themselves with this excellent producer.”

Chassagne-Montrachet 2018 £360.00/12 IB From six parcels dotted around the village. Smoky reductive nose. Limes and hazelnuts. Rich attack, acids in the background alongside a deep salinity which tightens things up. Notes of lime around an apricot core. Good length. Will drink well young.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie 2018 £450.00/12 IB 25% new oak, in barrel until June then bottled at the end of August 2019. Three plantings, the oldest 77 years old. Really concentrated, and somewhat hard to access, but the satin texture and chalky acids are obvious. Notes of ripe apples, pear and a little lime. No corpulence, but this will need a couple of years to relax.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chenevottes 2018 £450.00/12 IB Marlene says this is a vineyard which always gives a tight mineral wine. Obviously a bit richer in 2018, but again its not heavy or flabby, it is mineral soaked, has a chalky structure and concentrated Hazelnut, lime and kiwi fruit.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St Jean 2018 £474.00/12 IB I loved the 2017 Clos St Jean and the vineyard seems to have kept the magic in 2018. Nutty nose with a citrus lift. Racy with good line and super concentration, an almost cordial intense lime and citrus soaked mid palate. Powdery structure, a touch of well-integrated oak and a long, saline finish.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Vergers 2018 £474.00/12 IB Quite similar nose which adds a little apricot. A touch wider, more open, has a sense of harmony, full body, acids, extract, minerality all balanced and playing together. Intensity and length here, really poised. Detailed finish with little pops of lime and buttered nuts appearing in the mouth. Super wine.

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Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint Aubin The Langoureau family continue to offer high quality and great value across their various cuvées. This historic winery sold everything to the négociants before Sylvain and his wife Nathalie took over and began bottling under their own name. They own vineyards in St Aubin, Puligny, Chassagne and Meursault. They farm Lutte Raisonnée and prune severely to keep yields naturally low.

Although 2018 is a riper vintage plenty of water in the ground prevented any drought stress and the family have produced wines with good acidity and site definition. This year we were impressed with the 1er Cru Sur le Sentiers du Clou and offer it for the first time.

Saint-Aubin 2018 £87.00/6 IB Rich sure but great balance. High volume, lots of citrus acid drive, white fruit and chalky grip. There’s a lot of wine for the money here!

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur le Sentiers du Clou 2018 £114.00/6 IB Sitting in the mid to upper slope sweet spot above the village with poor soil over plenty of limestone this is a mineral, racy wine with a core of ripe fruit. This produces a lovely sense of tension, the chalky taut acidity balancing the succulent ripe peach and pear fruit at its heart.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2018 £117.00/ 6 IB Cited by many as St Aubin’s finest site, and always a highlight at Langoureau. Combines the vintages weight with the tension of limestone, here covered by very little poor soil. Citrus, verging on grapefruit nose, but some more succulent fruit as well. Good weight, almost muscular, well defined mid palate and a lingering finish of citrus, peach and white flowers.

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Côte de Nuits Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin It was an absolute pleasure to spend several hours with Pierre-John Roty, 11th generation wine maker, which included an in-depth visit to the Tres Vieilles Vignes in Charmes-Chambertin and a plate of Madame Roty’s epic gougères. He seems to be growing in confidence and his 2017s reflect this. The family motto could be ‘nothing changes’ and there is no domaine in Burgundy, that I know, where the character of the family so informs the wines. These are traditional, uncompromising burgundy. They may be difficult to understand when young, but with time they can reach breath taking heights of perfume and complexity. Of 2017 Pierre-Jean said it was a vintage that threatened a lot of problems but ended up largely trouble free. Harvest began on the 12th of September and the crop was ripe and healthy. Pierre-John described 2017 as having both feet in the soil of Burgundy, perhaps a blend of 2009 and 2014. A classic pinot year.

Bourgogne Rouge Pressonnier 2017 £96.00/6 IB Vines in the north-east section where the land slopes up. Used to be Gevrey village. Pretty yet dark mineral fruits. Touch floral. Nicely balanced, concentrated with pure, sweet fruit and crunchy structure. Good weight on mid palate. Black cherry finish. Always good value and should age well.

Marsannay 2017 £138.00/6 IB Joe Roty was an early buyer of land in Marsannay, he saw the potential when the village was still under appreciated. As a result, he was able to buy good sites with old vines. Ripe yet floral red cherry and stone fruit. Mouth filling and rich, but with fine almost stylish tannin. A little rustic earth, delicious, leads to a finish of violets and cherry stones.

Marsannay les Ouzeloy 2017 £156.00/6 IB 3 parcels, the largest of which has 80 year old vines. Finer, purer nose. God, lovely. More concentration, very tight and mineral, quite tannic though, not as immediately charming as the village wine, this will need more time. Again, that impression of stone fruit. Long, dark fruit and violet finish.

Gevrey Chambertin 2017 £228.00/6 IB Very good, and a different beast to the Marsannay, at once finer yet more muscular and intense. Black fruits and cherry stones. Crunchy and bursting with life. Fine tannins and a touch of blood and fire on the finish. Primary of course but feels layered and complex.

Gevrey Chambertin Les Champs Chenys 2017 £264.00/6 IB The Roty vines lie at the level as their lowest vines in Charmes Chambertin. Lift and life, black berries and cherries. Rich but fresh, with a desirable heart of ripeness and old vine concentration and depth. Firm tannins, a little grainy, mineral. Very long, and floral on the finish.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Fontenys 2017 £570.00/6 IB 50-100-year-old vines from a site which borders Ruchottes Chambertin on the outskirts of the village. There’s a real progression as we taste through the wines, pulling in more elements and nuance. Here we find a darker, more savoury wine, leather and mulberry, much deeper, rich and dense. Powder fine tannins, strong though, and that cool mineral streak, balanced and harmonious, with just a hint of cola ripeness on the finish. This has real presence but will need time.

Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes 2017 per three bottles P.O.A The most senior vines here date from 1881, making them some of the oldest in France. Vines at this age produce little fruit, but their deep roots and low vigour mean what they do produce can be of terrific quality. More reserved nose, one can imagine the grapes and their skins. Brooding, a little iodine on the nose. Super texture, almost thick but not heavy or leaden. Distilled essence of pinot noir and Burgundy, upright, reserved but full hearted and richly generous. Awesome potential, surely a 30 year wine.

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Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, Gevrey-Chambertin Philippe is now in control of wine making and viticulture and while both remain largely traditional, he is beginning to introduce new canopy management techniques, as well as making changes in the winery. In the vineyard they practice lutte raisonnée, no herbicides or pesticides have been used for over 30 years. They let the grass grow between the vines over winter and plough between the rows when the soils dry. A green harvest controls yields. Philippe is careful to keep the leaves around the bunches. As the suns direct rays and heat burns off acidity this provides shade for the grapes; he feels this gives his wines extra freshness. In the winery no stalks are used, the grapes see a five-day cold soak before fermentation with natural yeasts. The village and 1er wines see between 20-40% new oak, the Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 90%.

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2017 £240.00/6 IB 40-85 year old vines from three sites all in the Northern Brochon sector, En Songe. Champerrier and En Derriere. 40% new oak. Always seems to me to be a platonic Gevrey with its rich brambly fruit, sense of wood smoke and underlying minerality. Peppery, spicy tannins which will need a few years to soften.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Bossière Monopole 2017 £360.00/6 IB A cold high site further up the valley from Lavaux and the Clos St Jacques. The vines are 30 years old, they all had to be replanted after the devastating frost of 1985. Very poor soil, just inches above the limestone. Very fresh, elegant and mineral. Tightly wound and fine. Stone fruits, wild strawberries and roses make for a beguiling mouthful. Persistent, with a fine ribbon of acid tautness running throughout.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière 2017 £360.00/6 IB Crunchy red and black cherry, the second of the wines Philippe describes as limestone. Sunny, racy fruit, stylish, underneath a mineral bite, cool and fresh, and tannins so fine they are a whisper. Long and tight, holds its shape from start to finish.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2017 £396.00/6 IB Deeper, more smoke and earth. Big fruit concentration, dark, poised. Grippy tannins, they feel muscular, powerful yet well defined. Good length and actually some delicacy, complex notes of fruit and flowers fade in the mouth. Mazis’ little brother according to Philippe.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques 2017 £396.00/6 IB A cool site due to the influence of two combes, small valleys which funnel wind and cold air from the Haut-Cotes above. Fine, lifted black cherry. Stately, statuesque bearing, layers of mineral dark fruit and structured, fine tannin, all well integrated and harmonious. Very good indeed.

Mazis-Chambertin 2017 £762.00/6 IB From six parcels, three in Haut-Mazis, three Bas. Vines between 40-75 years old. 90% new oak. Racy, lifted and multi-faceted nose. A diamond. Sweetly perfumed. Dense attack coats the tongue, fresh, a lot of structure, though fine and integrated to produce a silky texture, serious yet lightly worn. Complex and long, with a finish that fans back out and continues to throw up complex fruit and mineral notes long after the wine is swallowed. Very much Grand Cru.

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Domaine Hubert Lignier, Morey St Denis Laurent Lignier described 2017 as ripe but not too sunny and very healthy, there was very little disease pressure. Unfortunately, some localised hail on the 10th of July reduced the yield in some vineyards, but otherwise the season was largely untroubled. Harvest began on the 7th of September, very few grapes were lost at sorting. Laurent has produced a brilliant set of wines, elegant, fine and pure, Burgundy of the first order.

Allocations of the Grand Cru, Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes & Chaffots, Gevrey Combottes and Chambolle Baudes will only go to those who balance their order with village wines.

Morey-St-Denis Tres Girard 2017 £264.00/6 IB Vines planted in the 70s in this site just below the 1er Cru Clos Sorbé. Laurent says it always gives a softer, elegant style with very fine tannins and is often mistaken for a Chambolle. Red fruits and chalky finesse. Ripe heart of sweet fruit and good length.

Morey St Denis ‘Trilogie’ 2017 £270.00/6 IB A blend of three old vine village vineyards planted in 1936, 1942, 1964 and 1972. The three sites, Chenevery, Clos Solon and Porroux, are spread across the village. Their old vines give low yields, rarely more than 30hl/ha, of great quality fruit. Broader and richer, more power and depth, hearty and exuberant. A superb village bottling, one of Morey's finest.

Gevrey Chambertin ‘Les Seuvrées’ 2017 £270.00/6 IB Old family vines here in a 1ha plot. Vines planted between 1938 and 1966 on this site which lies over the D974 below Mazoyères Grand Cru. Les Seuvrées gives a more masculine, meaty style of Gevrey, with great ageing potential. Super core of dark fruit, with wood smoke and a little iron on the finish. Good length.

Chambolle Musigny ‘Les Bussieres’ 2017 £336.00/6 IB 60-year-old vines growing near the Morey border, just south of Roumier’s Clos de Bussieres. Concentrated spicy dark fruit, pure and elegant. Fresh, agile wine with good length and a glassy texture. Just lovely.

Morey St Denis 1er Cru Clos Baulet 2017 £396.00/6 IB Morey’s smallest 1er Cru, just below Clos des Lambrays. The silty, stony soil is free draining and gives lighter, delicate wines. 100% destemmed. Black cherry, purity and balance with a sleek texture, ripe but not powerful, and lifted black fruits on the finish. Stylish Morey.

Morey St Denis 1er Cru Chenevery 2017 £420.00/6 IB More clay in the soil gives a deeper, structured wine. Since Laurent told me last summer how good this vineyard is I’ve been tasting as much as possible. Both Laurent’s 2009 and 2010 are drinking beautifully now, while the 2014 has superb potential. A blend of domaine and bought grapes, vines average 45 years, and this gets 25% whole bunch. Concentration with mineral cut, layers of dark fruit, long and fine, power here.

Morey St Denis 1er Cru Riotte 2017 £426.00/6 IB At the foot of Clos St Denis. This lies just north of Clos Baulet but has deeper soil with more clay and larger stones. 25% whole bunch. Black cherry again, but deeper and rounder. Not as silky, more characterful, richer, almost lush. According to Laurent the earliest drinking of his 1er Cru.

Morey St Denis 1er Cru Chaffots 2017 Per three bottles £240.00/3 IB Above Clos St Denis, at 330 metres. Thin, poor soil in a cool, windy but sunny site. Vines planted in 1968. One of the finest 1er Cru in Morey, its ethereal, floral, black fruit nose and exceptionally fine and restrained palate seems to me to be quintessential Burgundy. Excellent finesse and intensity, sweet, just ripe fruit, firm tannins, delivered with such harmony. A jewel.

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Morey St Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017 Per three bottles £330.00/3 IB ¾ from Faconnières, planted in ’47 and ’60, ¼ from Chenevery, planted ’36, ’42 and ‘43. Laurent says the soils here are similar to Clos de La Roche, with Dalle Nacrée underneath shallow soil. The old vines give a lot of millerandage grapes, small, concentrated berries. Impressive lift on the nose, a melange of flowers and berries. Lithe and cool, poised, fine firm tannins will need time, long, pure finish. Such a good wine.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes 2017 Per three bottles £345.00/3 IB 60 year old vines in this northern Chambolle vineyard just below Bonnes-Mares. Compelling purple fruits and spice, satin texture, but power here too, concentrated and deep. Tannins though are whisper fine. This can age, a 1995 last summer was the wine of the lunch in grand company. Great length, with a hint of orange peel spice on the finish.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 2017 Per three bottles £390.00/3 IB In amongst the Grand Cru, although a slight dip in the vineyard perhaps accounts for its 1er Cru status. South facing but cooled by a combe which channels cold air from above. Mostly owned by Morey growers, and Laurent says it is more Morey in character. Is that terroir, or? Always a wine which wears its power lightly, beautifully textured, cool and silky, a little more grain in the tannin, and a mineral chalky undertone as well. Great wine, ages well.

Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 Per three bottles £495.00/3 IB A single 1948 planting in the Mazoyères Haut section with deeper soil than in Clos de la Roche. The Lignier vines are close to the border with Combottes. Harder to read today, not as expressive. Lovely mouthfeel though, hearty and full of life. Fine and complete. Laurent thinks it’s a wine of power in its youth, but it develops the delicate nuance of a grand cru as it ages.

Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru 2017 Per three bottles P.O.A Old vines, ’53-’65, in two sections, Monts Luisants and Fremières. The soil is a complex mix of limestone, sand and clay over Dalle Nacrée, Pearly Limestone, compact rock full of fossils from the middle Jurassic. Gorgeous piercing purity here, striking and arresting. Intense, remarkable clarity. Not much point picking fruits, they’re dense, dark and all-encompassing and this has an eastern exoticism as well, powder fine tannins, set for a long life indeed. This is a wonderful wine. The 2006 recently was still primary, the 2001 just beginning to shine, while an ex domaine 1986 last year was beautifully spicy and complex.

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Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée It’s always a pleasure to taste with Sebastien Cathiard, he always seems genuinely engaged, interested in what the tasters have to say and although I have been visiting for several years, it never feels routine. The blind tasting at the end is exciting and terrifying in equal measure- happy to report team Rolls did well this year! 2018 was a relatively easy season according to Sebastien, with no disease pressure and little drought. Some of the young vines in Reignots felt the dryness, but the old vines elsewhere were unaffected. Harvest started on the 9th of September and finished on the 13th. The beauty of a focussed domaine in a vintage like 2018 is the speed and precision which one can employ at harvest. Happy with both quantity and quality Sebastien reported perfect phenolic ripeness and potential alcohols of between 12.8 and 13.5%, with no shortage of acidity. He didn’t change his vinification much, employing his usual gentle pigeage, just a little less often. Malos worked well, finishing by July. 2018 looks like being a resounding success at this terrific domaine.

As ever Domaine Cathiard will be in high demand and all the wines will be allocated. Preference will always go to those who have bought in the past and those who buy across the offer, but please let us know what you would like, and we will do our very best.

Coteaux Bourguignon 2018 £90.00/6 IB 40-year-old vines growing between Vosne and Nuits. Roughly 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay, co- planted and fermented. Great colour, hearty nose with just a touch of Gamay character. Juicy, sweet dark fruit, good concentration, a little grip on the finish.

Bourgogne Rouge 2018 £138.00/6 IB Tasted from a one-year old barrel. Dark, almost sombre fruit today. Super concentration, very fine tannins, plenty of mid-palate weight, acids carry the length, this really is one of the best Bourgogne around.

Nuits-St-Georges 2018 £324.00/6 IB 1/3rd new oak. Pure dark and sleek. Stylish Nuits. Intensity here, lots of fruit, fine grippy tannins, the shape of the wine is so good, but I’m not sure this will be at its best young.

Vosne-Romanée 2018 £340.00/6 IB Around 50% new oak. First from a 1-year old barrel, complex dark fruits and floral notes, and then blended with a new barrel, adding richness and depth to the nose. Rich yet cool palate, tannins fine, sweet and ripe, again the shape, poised. Density and weight but not heavy or leaden.

Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru aux Thorey 2018 £570.00/6 IB 76-year-old vines. Lots of gravel in the soil and well situated with a south-eastern exposure. Owned by Cathiard since 2006. Concentrated and dense, yet it whistles over the palate. Red cherry and violets, ripe. Structure a bit more drying, quite firm if fine tannin. Bit sombre on the finish, feels a bit repressed today, but that should change with time in bottle.

Nuits-St-George 1er Cru Aux Murgers 2018 £630.00/6 IB One of the finest sites in Nuits’ northern sector, near the Vosne border. 65-year-old vines produce a deep, stylish wine that marries the two villages distinct characters. More perfume than Thorey today. Cold black fruit and floral lift. Racy, stylish, lots of concentration, dark fruit and fine tannin, really hangs on the gums. Very good.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Reignots 2018 per 3 bottles* £510.00/3 IB Planted in 1997 these are the domaines youngest vines. Lifted and pure, touch lighter but mouth filling fruit. Velvet tannins, freshness, dark pure fruit, no sense of over ripeness or dryness here. Harmonious, reminds one of both the sun and the cool stone.

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Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Orveaux 2018 per 3 bottles* £510.00/3 IB A vineyard which sits at the top of the slope above Échezeaux. 75-year-old vines. Good vines give tight bunches of small, high-quality berries. Not as expressive today on the nose. Almost pitch perfect on the palate though, cool and fine and complete. Quite structured, sweet tannins. This is ripe, sure, but nothing overdone, perhaps less ethereal than some vintages but I think it is set to age for a long time.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2018 per 3 bottles* £900.00/3 IB One of Burgundy’s most hallowed 1er Crus, sitting next to La Tâche. The vineyard’s deep red soil over complex limestone gives a wine which seems to hit all the senses. With age its complexity can be breath taking and worthy of a Grand Cru. Super texture from the off, then that bite of acid and tannin. Like a dance, a racy detailed interplay between fruit, flower and mineral, supported by fresh acids and fine but peppery tannins. Potential and concentration amazing. I think this may be for the ages, just great.

* non-original packaging

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Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot (CLF), Flagey-Echézeaux Winemaker Thomas described 2018 as relatively straight forward, again the wet preceding winter was key, there was almost no hydric stress in his vines. Harvest took place beneath clear skies and the crop was healthy. He makes all the wines in the same way, to emphasise terroir. Only the Chambolle sees a little whole bunch. New oak ranges from 30% for the villages to 60% for the Clos St Denis and Grands Echézeaux. Thomas has produced a range of serious wines with ripe fruit but good freshness and transparency. His stylish, pure fruited wines show a clear sense of terroir even in this vintage, they are refined and elegant, neither overly extracted nor heavy. Despite their fruit I don’t think they will be for early drinking. The village wines are very good, serious wines that shouldn’t be overlooked.

Allocations of the Grands Crus and Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru will depend on balanced orders, we ask for a ratio of 12 bottles of village for every six bottles of Grand Cru.

Bourgogne Rouge 2018 £90.00/6 IB Vines below Clos Vougeot. Ripe but crunchy berry fruit. Well concentrated, fine tannins, nice shape. Bit more weight in 2018 but nothing over cooked.

Morey-St-Denis 2018 £245.00/6 IB A blend of Clos Salon and En Seuvrey. Dark fruit, mulberry perhaps, with some jasmine floral notes. Super texture, racy and sleek, really pleasing, fresh, finely layered and structured. Super in 2018.

Gevrey-Chambertin 2018 £245.00/6 IB A blend of three sites. Champerrier and En Songe, to the north of the village, bring freshness and finesse while Vignes Belles, below the Grand Crus, brings structure. The blend works in 2018, combining the acid lift of the northern sites with the ripeness and depth of Vignes Belles. Fine red fruits, with a crunch of masculine tannin on the finish. Not without finesse and floral notes.

Chambolle Musigny 2018 £265.00/6 IB Sleek dark fruit, supple and elegant. Sweetly fruited but plenty of bite, fine grained tannin, good length. Nicely judged, with a bit of snap from the stalks. Hasn’t lost its finesse this year.

Vosne-Romanée 2018 £265.00/6 IB From two parcels. Maizière, near Echézeaux and planted with 75-year-old vines gives a hearty wine with fine tannins, a velvet texture and a sense of depth and purity. La Violette, higher and cooler, gives more delicate floral notes and adds detail. One can see why the blend works so well. Black fruits, rich, ripe and mouth filling, almost grand scaled. Has the taut acid and sense of minerality to balance. A lovely Vosne village.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 2018 £480.00/6 IB A blend of Beaumonts (85-year-old vines) and declassified Échezeaux. This is essentially one planting of vines which runs between the vineyards. Bit of reduction here. In the mouth the fruit quality is obvious. It is racy and lifted and combines spicy dark red fruits and spice over graphite fine tannin and a mineral freshness. Grip on the finish.

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018 £625.00/6 IB 70-year-old vines near the bottom of the vineyard. Despite that this always seems an elegant, fine Clos de Vougeot with pure fruit and a sleek texture. I think it’s a real success in 2018. Brambly, hedge row fruit, weightier than previous years, firm fine tannins get the gums, but there’s a nice crunch here, it is tight and shows impressive length.

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Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2018 £625.00/6 IB Vines planted in 1967, ‘Vin tres généreuse’ says Thomas. Always the ripest wine in the cellar and 2018 is no different. Rich nose, cassis and exotic spice. Voluminous mouthfeel, tannins a little dry at this stage, rich yes but there are acids which keep it all moving towards the surprisingly floral finish. I have a feeling this will show well young, but after its first few years it may well need a long time in the cellar.

Clos de la Roche 2018 £625.00/6 IB More elegance and finesse here than the Echézeaux, but more reserved. Cool fine fruit, on the palate it hasn’t lost its sculptural, mineral structure, it is taut and fine. Quality of the fruit impresses. Pure, ripe yet cool and succulent. Should reward patience, seems a lot to unwind here.

Echézeaux Grand Cru 2018 £690.00/6 IB From three plots, mainly Orveaux. The oldest vines are 66 years old. Dark and spicy, exotic. Stone fruits. Lots of perfume. Tight, firm fine tannins, the concentrated vivacious fruit is impressive, touch of dryness on mid palate but that will go, bigger framed but well balanced. The vintage at its best.

Clos St Denis 2018 Per three bottles* £850.00/6 IB Thomas says Clos St Denis has more sand in the soil, which he thinks gives an extra finesse to the wine. Just a hint of cola behind the primary red and black fruits. Hasn’t lost that finesse, this is controlled and muscular rather than massively framed. Seems to have deep reserves of power, but not at the expense of detail or delicacy. Sublime length.

Grands-Echézeaux 2018 Per three bottles* £1100.006 IB So full of energy, lifted and multi-dimensional. Big heart of dark red fruit, pure and succulent, tight despite its concentration, finest tannin, silky texture, very long and showing a complex finish of fruit, minerals and flowers. Glorious.

*non-original packaging

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How the offer works

The wines in this offer are priced ‘In Bond’ ie, ex UK duty and VAT.

The wines are currently at their domains, we will ship them to the UK over the course of the year. When all of the wines have arrived, we will contact you regarding delivery. At this point the wines can be transferred to a bonded storage account, either with us or elsewhere, or delivered to you direct.

If the wines are delivered Duty and VAT will become payable. Duty is currently £2.23 a bottle or £13.38 per six bottle case. VAT is payable on both the cost of the wine and the duty.

For instance, a bottle which costs £10.00 IB (in bond) will cost £14.68 delivered, inclusive of duty and VAT. Please contact us if you would like further details.

We can store your wine for you. Many of the wines in this offer will require time to show at their best. If space is short or conditions at home less than ideal, we can hold the wines on your behalf at our bonded warehouse. Current costs are £10.00 ex vat per dozen, £5.00 per six, paid yearly in advance. Please call us on 0203 215 0011 to discuss this service.

Robert Rolls & Co Ltd 55 St John’s Street London EC1M 4AN [t] 0203 215 0011 To place an order please email [email protected]