Tuscany En Primeur When? on June 4Th, at the International Culinary Center in Crosby Street
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INTERNATIONAL Year 1 no.11 May 2012 Editor Lorenzo Ruggeri Our magazine TRE [email protected] for free on your iPad 2011 Berebene low cost BICCHIERI ADV Director Franco Dammicco 2011 monthly news for wine professionals [email protected] winetravelfood magazine ® Dealer Poster Pubblicità [email protected] 2011 i dolci Gambero Rosso Holding spa di Santin Via Enrico Fermi 161 tuttifritti 00146 Rome (Italy) rivista mensile foodies TUSCANY RED AND WHITE Savor Siena in New York. Tuscany En Primeur When? On June 4th, at the International Culinary Center in Crosby Street. The tasting will feature two of the wines at the heart of the zone’s production. The white, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is from the fabled town of towers. The red, Chianti dei Colli Senesi, is from the Sienese hills. Finger food and other small creative mouthfuls will accompany the wines. At 3 p.m, a by Antonio Boco, Paolo De Cristofaro, Giuseppe Carrus master class will look deeper into their nature. Chianti Classico Brunello di Montalcino Vino CONFIRMATION CONFIRMATION Nobile di Montepulciano Badia a Coltibuono | Chianti Canalicchio di Sopra | Brunello CONFIRMATION Classico Badia a Coltibuono ’10 di Montalcino ’07 Boscarelli | Nobile di In our opinion, for years the Chianti Classico The 2007 seems like a truly special vintage Montepulciano ’09 made by Badia has been one of the most year for the Montosoli area and for the sensual and seductive. It has a fine texture, Canalicchi crus of the northern sector of The fascinating nose of the Nobile ’09 released silky and crisp. Nuances of wild strawberries Montalcino. It’s no accident that, among by Boscarelli immediately displays the wine’s and raspberries are almost a whisper. The others, there are three generations heading style: earthy notes of ashes and undergrowth wine is in pure Chianti style, in the most Canalicchio di Sopra. Their Brunello amazes are only a few of those sensations that emerge delicious sense of the term. It is prevalently us again for its complexity and taste presence. on an undoubtedly complex aromatic made with sangiovese grapes, but with a A slight contraction, probably due to the oak, spectrum. The palate is perfectly balanced small percentage of canaiolo and colorino. but there’s plenty of flavor and structure. between creamy tannin, exemplary acidity and a pleasantly savory finish on which the notes UP-AND-COMING UP-AND-COMING perceived on the nose re-emerge. Podere Castellinuzza Il Paradiso di Frassina | Brunello UP-AND-COMING di Montalcino Il Paradiso Chianti Classico Paolo Coccia Montemercurio | Nobile di Riserva ’09 di Frassina ’07 Montepulciano Messaggero ’09 If you are located in Lamole, a year that At Il Paradiso di Frassina, Giancarlo Cignozzi The quality of the Nobile Messaggero ’09 tends to be hot, like the ’09, can be an experiments with music therapy in the demonstrates that Montemercurio is among advantage rather than a problem. In any vineyard, but above all, he produces Brunello the up-and-coming wineries on the case, for whatever reason, we definitely that is more interesting every year. Try this ’07 Montepulciano scene. The nose is a festival of liked Chianti Classico Riserva Paolo from the northern slope around Montosoli. It berry notes, with currants and blackberries Coccia. It is a very classic, delicate wine, is coherently narrated by delicate notes of iris standing out along with spicy sensations. The more floral than fruity, and wonderfully juicy and blueberry, with a tense and graceful mouth is soft and velvety, enlivened by a subtle in the mouth. Its structure is about average, silhouette that is already harmonious but at acidic vein. The tannic texture, silky and but its depth of aromas is seductive. the same time has room to grow. mouth-filling, moves the palate along towards a pleasant and savory finish. The advanced WE MOVE PRECIOUS COMMODITIES: YOURS. logistic solution for Wines & Spirits www.ggori.com PAIRINGS/Mozzarella and wine by Gabriel Salvatore Montreal’s Wine Festa Whatever its form, true buffalo On June 6, 2012, Montreal, Canada’s French Canadian metropolis, will be for mozzarella’s flavor and soft, luscious the third consecutive year among those cities featured on the coveted list of consistency is unmistakable. North American destinations for Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri World Tour, Regulations bestow the DOP after San Francisco, New York and Chicago. (denominazione di origine protetta) seal only on In recent years, mozzarella from Campania, produced in the trebicchieri Montrealers have provinces of Caserta and Salerno and in parts 2 011 /2 012 enjoyed a growing of the provinces of Naples and Benevento. It WORLD TOUR knowledge of must be made exclusively with buffalo milk wines: a striking and consumed very fresh. Mozzarella is a change for a population that a living food, its odors and flavors are mere forty years ago was more continually evolving, and diminish as the accustomed to drinking beer hours pass. It should not be kept in the and hard liquor. This revolution refrigerator, but in its own water in a cool in tastes was in part spearheaded environment. We tested fifteen wines with by an impressively high concentration With 23% of the wine market (nearly mozzarella, trying every type. All the matches of restaurants and a unique state-owned one out of every four bottles), it places with reds were a disappointment. Here are the alcohol distribution network – the right behind France’s 30% market- three best. What do they have in common? Fresh Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ). share. Even in the rest of Canada, one acidity, immediacy, tanginess, well-balanced aroma. In 2009, wine consumption in Quebec notices similar results with Italian wines Pian di Stio Fiano ‘10 eclipsed the Canadian average by 5 making up around 20% of all wine sales. Azienda Agricola San Salvatore litres with an annual per capita Quebec remains by far the biggest 1This is a meaty and deep fiano, made from consumption of 20.1 litres. Today, not consumer of Italian wines in Canada. organic grapes. It takes its name from a village in only do the Quebecois consume a Drinking 47% of all Italian wines, the the heart of the Cilento zone, in the Parco Naturale. greater proportion of wine, they also province far exceeds others like Ontario Richly fruity and fresh, the palate is progressive purchase bottles in a much wider price (36.1%) and Alberta (10.5%). and winningly long-lasting. A harmonious white, range. Quebec’s love affair with Italian wines generous and savory, it brings out vegetal notes in the mozzarella that resemble hay and chamomile, While French wines, traditional is attributed in part to its large Italian as well as tones of citrus fruit that lead to one of community and its many restaurants. favourites of Quebec consumers, the most balanced finishes. Pairing: 9/10 recently suffered from the fierce Last year Tre Bicchieri succeeded in competition from wines from the New positioning itself as the most prestigious Champagne Charles Devallin Brut World, Italy, on the other hand, has Italian wine fair in Canada. In addition, Charles Devallin been able to maintain, and even slightly the event reiterated the SAQ’s status as 2The most classic cuvée, 75% Pinot Nero and increase, its market-share in Quebec. a consummately professional operator 25% Chardonnay: the result is a Champagne with No wonder Italy fares well in Quebec. and an invaluable partner and organizer. body, excellent acidic backbone, a long finish with For a complete list of participating wineries click HERE the structure of a Pinot Nero but also the elegance and delicacy typical of this white berry. The two varieties bring out the best in each other: balance OLIVE OIL/L’Olinto Frantoio and depth are matched, but what stands out is acidic backbone, which, joined with effervescence, Producer Created by Rolando Grassi, the company is perfectly compensates for the fattiness of the run today by his son Giacomo, who successfully cheese. A love match. Pairing: 8½/10 specializes in the production of high quality extravergine olive oil. After studying agriculture at university, he began to experiment with new methods of both cultivation and Lettere della Penisola Sorrentina ‘11 extraction. He is an important influence in a still very traditional Grotta del Sole Tuscany and was among the first to bottle monocultivar oils. 3Easy to drink, honest, this super traditional Olive oil This extravergine is impressive for its faithfulness to the blend of Campania’s varieties has the charm of a territory which it elegantly and powerfully expresses. It is also Lambrusco thanks to its pleasant effervescence. one of the best representatives of the frantoio variety in the Piedirosso, aglianico, and sciascinoso grapes offer production year 2011/2012. On the nose it is direct, balsamic and vinous, fruity and floral fragrances such as extremely green, with notes of cypress and aromatic herbs. raspberries, wild strawberries and roses. The Elegant and vertical in the mouth, it displays opulent bitterness sparkle cleans the palate agreeably with its soft, and a green pepper pungency. generous bubbles. This is a more wintry pairing Pairings Bean soups, legumes, steak. than the first two but it can create an unusually evocative L’OLINTO MONOCUltivar FRANTOIO DOP CHIANTI CLASSICO BIO atmosphere. Pairing: 8/10 EREDE ROLANDO GRASSI via Dudda, 33 | Greve in Chianti (Florence) | tel. +39 335 53915353 Restyling the Italian Table The development of Italian wine around the globe is directly connected to the presence of top-notch Italian restaurants. The days when Italy exported red and white checked tablecloths and improvised trattorias are over. Today, we export quality and skilled professionals. by Roberta Corradin American cooking (hardly recognizable as culinary colonization.