INTERNATIONAL Year 1 no.11 May 2012 Editor Lorenzo Ruggeri Our magazine TRE [email protected] for free on your iPad

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foodies Tuscany Red and White Savor Siena in New York. Tuscany En Primeur When? On June 4th, at the International Culinary Center in Crosby Street. The tasting will feature two of the at the heart of the zone’s production. The white, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is from the fabled town of towers. The red, Chianti dei Colli Senesi, is from the Sienese hills. Finger food and other small creative mouthfuls will accompany the wines. At 3 p.m, a by Antonio Boco, Paolo De Cristofaro, Giuseppe Carrus master class will look deeper into their nature. Chianti Classico Brunello di Montalcino Vino Confirmation Confirmation Nobile di Montepulciano Badia a Coltibuono | Chianti Canalicchio di Sopra | Brunello Confirmation Classico Badia a Coltibuono ’10 di Montalcino ’07 Boscarelli | Nobile di In our opinion, for years the Chianti Classico The 2007 seems like a truly special Montepulciano ’09 made by Badia has been one of the most year for the Montosoli area and for the sensual and seductive. It has a fine texture, Canalicchi crus of the northern sector of The fascinating nose of the Nobile ’09 released silky and crisp. Nuances of wild strawberries Montalcino. It’s no accident that, among by Boscarelli immediately displays the wine’s and raspberries are almost a whisper. The others, there are three generations heading style: earthy notes of ashes and undergrowth wine is in pure Chianti style, in the most Canalicchio di Sopra. Their Brunello amazes are only a few of those sensations that emerge delicious sense of the term. It is prevalently us again for its complexity and taste presence. on an undoubtedly complex aromatic made with sangiovese grapes, but with a A slight contraction, probably due to the , spectrum. The palate is perfectly balanced small percentage of canaiolo and colorino. but there’s plenty of flavor and structure. between creamy tannin, exemplary acidity and a pleasantly savory finish on which the notes Up-and-coming Up-and-coming perceived on the nose re-emerge. Podere Castellinuzza Il Paradiso di Frassina | Brunello Up-and-coming di Montalcino Il Paradiso Chianti Classico Paolo Coccia Montemercurio | Nobile di Riserva ’09 di Frassina ’07 Montepulciano Messaggero ’09

If you are located in Lamole, a year that At Il Paradiso di Frassina, Giancarlo Cignozzi The quality of the Nobile Messaggero ’09 tends to be hot, like the ’09, can be an experiments with music therapy in the demonstrates that Montemercurio is among advantage rather than a problem. In any vineyard, but above all, he produces Brunello the up-and-coming wineries on the case, for whatever reason, we definitely that is more interesting every year. Try this ’07 Montepulciano scene. The nose is a festival of liked Chianti Classico Riserva Paolo from the northern slope around Montosoli. It berry notes, with currants and blackberries Coccia. It is a very classic, delicate wine, is coherently narrated by delicate notes of iris standing out along with spicy sensations. The more floral than fruity, and wonderfully juicy and blueberry, with a tense and graceful mouth is soft and velvety, enlivened by a subtle in the mouth. Its structure is about average, silhouette that is already harmonious but at acidic vein. The tannic texture, silky and but its depth of aromas is seductive. the same time has room to grow. mouth-filling, moves the palate along towards a pleasant and savory finish.

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www.ggori.com Pairings/Mozzarella and wine by Gabriel Salvatore Montreal’s Wine Festa Whatever its form, true buffalo On June 6, 2012, Montreal, Canada’s French Canadian metropolis, will be for mozzarella’s flavor and soft, luscious the third consecutive year among those cities featured on the coveted list of consistency is unmistakable. North American destinations for Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri World Tour, Regulations bestow the DOP after San Francisco, New York and Chicago. (denominazione di origine protetta) seal only on In recent years, mozzarella from Campania, produced in the

trebicchieri Montrealers have provinces of Caserta and Salerno and in parts 2 011 /2 012 enjoyed a growing of the provinces of Naples and Benevento. It World Tour knowledge of must be made exclusively with buffalo milk wines: a striking and consumed very fresh. Mozzarella is a change for a population that a living food, its odors and flavors are mere forty years ago was more continually evolving, and diminish as the accustomed to drinking beer hours pass. It should not be kept in the and hard liquor. This revolution refrigerator, but in its own water in a cool in tastes was in part spearheaded environment. We tested fifteen wines with by an impressively high concentration With 23% of the wine market (nearly mozzarella, trying every type. All the matches of restaurants and a unique state-owned one out of every four bottles), it places with reds were a disappointment. Here are the alcohol distribution network – the right behind France’s 30% market- three best. What do they have in common? Fresh Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ). share. Even in the rest of Canada, one acidity, immediacy, tanginess, well-balanced aroma. In 2009, wine consumption in Quebec notices similar results with Italian wines Pian di Stio Fiano ‘10 eclipsed the Canadian average by 5 making up around 20% of all wine sales. Azienda Agricola San Salvatore litres with an annual per capita Quebec remains by far the biggest 1This is a meaty and deep fiano, made from consumption of 20.1 litres. Today, not consumer of Italian wines in Canada. organic grapes. It takes its name from a village in only do the Quebecois consume a Drinking 47% of all Italian wines, the the heart of the Cilento zone, in the Parco Naturale. greater proportion of wine, they also province far exceeds others like Ontario Richly fruity and fresh, the palate is progressive purchase bottles in a much wider price (36.1%) and Alberta (10.5%). and winningly long-lasting. A harmonious white, range. Quebec’s love affair with Italian wines generous and savory, it brings out vegetal notes in the mozzarella that resemble hay and chamomile, While French wines, traditional is attributed in part to its large Italian as well as tones of citrus fruit that lead to one of community and its many restaurants. favourites of Quebec consumers, the most balanced finishes. Pairing: 9/10 recently suffered from the fierce Last year Tre Bicchieri succeeded in competition from wines from the New positioning itself as the most prestigious Champagne Charles Devallin Brut World, Italy, on the other hand, has fair in Canada. In addition, Charles Devallin been able to maintain, and even slightly the event reiterated the SAQ’s status as 2The most classic cuvée, 75% Pinot Nero and increase, its market-share in Quebec. a consummately professional operator 25% Chardonnay: the result is a Champagne with No wonder Italy fares well in Quebec. and an invaluable partner and organizer. body, excellent acidic backbone, a long finish with For a complete list of participating wineries click here the structure of a Pinot Nero but also the elegance and delicacy typical of this white berry. The two varieties bring out the best in each other: balance OLIVE OIL/L’Olinto Frantoio and depth are matched, but what stands out is acidic backbone, which, joined with effervescence, Producer Created by Rolando Grassi, the company is perfectly compensates for the fattiness of the run today by his son Giacomo, who successfully cheese. A love match. Pairing: 8½/10 specializes in the production of high quality extravergine olive oil. After studying agriculture at university, he began to experiment with new methods of both cultivation and Lettere della Penisola Sorrentina ‘11 extraction. He is an important influence in a still very traditional Grotta del Sole Tuscany and was among the first to bottle monocultivar oils. 3Easy to drink, honest, this super traditional Olive oil This extravergine is impressive for its faithfulness to the blend of Campania’s varieties has the charm of a territory which it elegantly and powerfully expresses. It is also Lambrusco thanks to its pleasant effervescence. one of the best representatives of the frantoio variety in the Piedirosso, aglianico, and sciascinoso grapes offer production year 2011/2012. On the nose it is direct, balsamic and vinous, fruity and floral fragrances such as extremely green, with notes of cypress and aromatic herbs. raspberries, wild strawberries and roses. The Elegant and vertical in the mouth, it displays opulent bitterness sparkle cleans the palate agreeably with its soft, and a green pepper pungency. generous bubbles. This is a more wintry pairing Pairings Bean soups, legumes, steak. than the first two but it can create an unusually evocative L’Olinto Monocultivar Frantoio Dop Chianti Classico Bio atmosphere. Pairing: 8/10 Erede Rolando Grassi via Dudda, 33 | Greve in Chianti (Florence) | tel. +39 335 53915353 Restyling the Italian Table

The development of Italian wine around the globe is directly connected to the presence of top-notch Italian restaurants. The days when Italy exported red and white checked tablecloths and improvised trattorias are over. Today, we export quality and skilled professionals. by Roberta Corradin American cooking (hardly recognizable as culinary colonization. The first to see an Italian anymore by modern standards) and opportunity were the Florentines (Enoteca It has always been striking that the great propose up-to-date Italian cuisine in her Pinchiorri and Cibreo in Tokyo), followed by names of French cuisine were the same both restaurants, books and television shows. The a migration to London: Dolada (from Pieve inside and out of the country, while the list of those unsung in Italy but famous abroad d’Alpago to Mayfair), Osteria dell’Arancio standard bearers of Italian cuisine abroad were is a long one: Piero Selvaggio is synonymous (from Grottammare to Chelsea), Heinz Beck practically unknown at home. For example: with Italian dining among Los Angeles’ big (from Rome to Hyde Park). Most recently, Marcella Hazan, the writer whose Italian spenders; Sirio Maccioni, Mario Batali, the Sacco brothers, from Lake Mergozzo in cookbook became a kitchen classic in the Cesare Casella, Laura Maioglio, all little Piedmont, opened the River Club in Beijing United States, was never published in Italy. known in Italy, figure large on the New York where they serve the classics, such as trout Lidia Bastianich was an illustrious unknown City restaurant scene; Giada De Laurentiis is hamburger, from their Piccolo Lago in her homeland before she partnered with the author of best-selling Italian cookbooks restaurant. Massimiliano Alajmo cloned his Oscar Farinetti and became the American in the United States. Antonio Carluccio, Calandrino in Tokyo. pillar of Eataly, but she was one of the first, Giorgio Locatelli and Claudio Pulze are well- Now a younger set are exporting winning in the 1980s, to turn her back on Italo- known restaurateurs in London. Armando ideas. Tarallucci e Vino brought their pizza Percuoco, the Don by the slice to New York and have won prizes Alfonso of Sydney and for the city’s best soup (le scrippelle ‘mbusse LONDON Apsleys | The Lanesborough Hotel | Hyde Park Corner founder of CIRA (Council abruzzesi – delicate crepes drenched in tel. + 44 020 7259 5599 | www.lanesborough.com of Italian Restaurants in chicken broth). Dego (Degustazione + Cotidie | 50 Marylebone High Street London | W1U 5HN Australia) is a visionary Osteria), in London, offers an instructive tel. +44 020 7258 9878 | www.cotidierestaurant.com chef who, in 1994, planted choice of small Italian labels, salumi, cheeses, new york Tarallucci e Vino | 15, East 18th Street an olive grove in the and a careful, simple menu aimed at tel. +1 (212) 228 5400 | www.taralluccievino.net Australian countryside. spotlighting the wines. Among other SYDNEY Buon ricordo | 108, Boundary St | Paddington “Planting an olive is an tel. +61 (0) 2 9360 6729 | www.buonricordo.com.au European outposts, low cost but significant, Beijing RiverClub | piccololago.it exercise in patience”, he the pizza and buffalo mozzarella crowd (Piola, TOKYO Enoteca Pinchiorri | 5-8-20 Ginza | Chuo (Prefecture pointed out ruefully. Rossopomodoro, Fratelli La Bufala, Obikà) of Tokyo) | tel. +81 3 3289 8081 | www.enotecapinchiorri.com Exporting trattorias have chosen Istanbul: a window on the east instead of haute cuisine and a rare European instance of a cost Italy twenty years of growing GDP. Wine buy Airport Gourmet of the month Kingsford Smith

Greco di Tufo 2010 Brazil Wrap-up We arrived at the Pietracupa Kingsford Smith 22,000 bottles| 12 euros airport of Sydney from South This time the wine of the month brings America, losing a day thanks us to the Campania region, to to the international date line. Montefredane in the province of Avellino. Meet Sabino Loffredo, an We looked for an quick but ex-athletic instructor. Over a very few interesting meal in the busiest vintage years, he has become one of airport on the Oceania the best producers of white wine in continent, finally choosing a Italy. His Fiano and Greco labels are warm Australian beef and unmistakable. Recently he decided that tomato chutney pie in the Pie they deserved an equally complex and Face boutique (International personality-rich Aglianico as a brother. T1 and Domestic T2) to eat To carry out this plan, he bought The fifth edition of the Top Italian with a refreshing Coopers Ale another two hectares in Torre le Roadshow wrapped up in Brazil after an on tap at, appropriately, The Nocelle, an ideal area for Taurasi. extraordinary season that saw over 50 His Greco is distinguished by a Tap House (T2). The marriage prolonged period sur lie in stainless wineries bring their premium labels to India, of flavors was a low-cost steel. Biting acidity needs to be Korea, Hong Kong and Russia. Over 1,500 pleasure. Tap House offers a viewed from the perspective of professionals participated in San Paolo and Rio de decent selection of Australian time (don’t miss the sumptuous Janeiro, the last two stops on the world tour. Brazil wines as well, while for a Greco ’08). Greco di Tufo ’10 enjoys one of the liveliest wine and food scenes on seafood meal we could have gives the impression of a wine the globe. In 2011, Italian exports to the country grew gone to Seafood Bar-Caviar that proceeds on automatic 21% over the previous year, and today Italian products House & Prunier at T1 where pilot, almost renouncing fruit to represent about 14% in terms of value and more than good wine is offered by the leave space for the whole 17% in terms of volume on the Brazilian marketplace. glass. But the pleasantest nervous, mineral aspect of the Prospects for further growth are strong. Gambero surprise was waiting in the variety that increases in Rosso wine expert Marco Sabellico’s tasting wine section of the duty-free intensity little by little, as each workshops were completely sold out. On this occasion sip reveals its purest and most he was joined by Jorge Lucky and Marcelo Copello. shop in the international saline features. The curtain falls on the Roadshow, but the tour will terminal, T1. Bottles organized begin once again with Asia, in November. by variety and price category showed evident attention to what’s going on/May detail. Highly qualified personnel helped with purchases. The shop even  The spotlight will shine on the historic production area of Vino in Villa Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene. Different traditions, regularly organizes wine Susegana Treviso, Italy cultures and flavors will be on hand, including the cuisines tastings, occasionally led by a of Japan, Russia, Denmark. Unusual pairings with over 300 Master of Wine. On the day May 19-21 labels of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. we visited, the best reds produced by Penfold were www.prosecco.it/en/vinoinvilla open for tasting. It was the first time in our lives we’d attended an airport wine The eighth edition of the key wine event in Central-Southern tasting. To conclude, we had  itigno talia V I Italy is set in Naples’ splendid Castel dell’Ovo and focuses a fast snack at Danks Street Naples, Italy on native varieties. Over 250 stands demonstrate the Depot (T1), opened in extraordinary potential of the Italian peninsula, with special December, 2009. It is one of May 20-22 attention to the terroir of the south. the answers to the strong www.vitignoitalia.it demand for local products that airports all around the  Get to know wine directly at the source: walk among the world are facing. The shop Cantine Aperte 2012 vineyards, meet the winemaker. The annual appointment offered seasonal foods with Italy with Cantine Aperte is here again. Over 1,000 producers all an eye to artisanal, sustainable May 27 over Italy will open their gates and offer visitors a romantic production. Zero-kilometer wine experience. philosophy has even reached www.movimentoturismovino.it/cantine_aperte_it.html here.

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