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Thesis Revival of Hejaz Tribal Embroidery Using Digital THESIS REVIVAL OF HEJAZ TRIBAL EMBROIDERY USING DIGITAL DESIGN TECHNOLOGY: A COLLABORATIVE DESIGN PROCESS ENGAGING SAUDI FEMALE ACADEMICS Submitted by Sahar H. Ejeimi Department of Design and Merchandising In partial fulfillment of the requirements For the Degree of Master of Science Colorado State University Fort Collins, Colorado Spring 2016 Master’s Committee: Advisor: Diane Sparks Co-Advisor: Yan, Ruoh-Nan Ajean Ryan Copyright by Sahar Ejeimi 2016 All Rights Reserved ABSTRACT REVIVAL OF HEJAZ TRIBAL EMBROIDERY USING DIGITAL DESIGN TECHNOLOGY: A COLLABORATIVE DESIGN PROCESS ENGAGING SAUDI FEMALE ACADEMICS The purpose of the study was to create a collection of professional dress ensembles for Saudi female academics based on their preferences. Two models underpinned this research study: the FEA consumers’ needs model combined with the collaborative design model in order to engage study participants into the design process. A mixed methods approach was implemented in this study in terms of data collection process to examine participants’ FEA preferences within two phases of the design process. First data were collected via online survey from eight participants to evaluate and give suggestions for the eight preliminary sketches. The data were used as feedback to refine the designs in the second phase. The final phase of the project included data collection onsite in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, using questionnaires and focus group discussion with 12 participants. This data helped assess whether the final garment collection met participants’ professional needs, and if participants would be willing to wear them. Results from this study showed that the ratings for the final garments were generally higher than the first sketches in the first phase. Results revealed that the aesthetic aspect was rated the most preferred by the participants among the FEA aspects. Results also indicated that Silver Waves design received the highest rating among the designs in terms of FEA aspects. Qualitative results showed that participants were willing to wear the garments in this study as the garments represented heritage, looked contemporary, and had versatile uses. Participants were also willing to pay more for culturally inspired work attire. Discussion and conclusions are presented. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................................... ii LIST OF TABLES ...................................................................................................................... viii LIST OF FIGURES ...................................................................................................................... ix CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................. 1 Purpose ............................................................................................................................... 4 Research questions ............................................................................................................. 5 Objectives .......................................................................................................................... 5 Contribution to the field of apparel and merchandising .................................................... 5 Limitations ......................................................................................................................... 6 Definitions and terms ......................................................................................................... 6 CHAPTER II REVIEW OF LITERATURE ................................................................................ 10 Cultural background of female ethnic dress in Hejaz ...................................................... 10 Traditional tribal women’s dress ................................................................................ 14 Traditional urban women’s dress ................................................................................ 18 Characteristic aesthetic appearance of ethnic embroidery in Hejaz ................................ 20 Embroidery placement ................................................................................................ 20 Embroidery stitches .................................................................................................... 20 Embroidery patterns and motifs .................................................................................. 24 Embroidery materials .................................................................................................. 24 Embroidery threads ..................................................................................................... 25 Embroidery and embellishing symbolism .................................................................. 25 Saudi professional women’s dress preferences................................................................ 26 Theoretical Framework .................................................................................................... 28 FEA design model....................................................................................................... 28 Collaborative design mode ......................................................................................... 32 Summary .......................................................................................................................... 35 CHAPTER III METHODS AND PROCEDURES ................................................................... 38 The collaborative design process ..................................................................................... 39 Concept development phase ................................................................................ 39 Inspiration ...................................................................................................... 39 Preliminary co-design phase .......................................................................... 42 Design development and refinement phase ......................................................... 44 Prototype construction phase ............................................................................... 45 Evaluation phase .................................................................................................. 45 Validity, reliability and issues of subjectivity.................................................................. 48 iii CHAPTER 1V RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ....................................................................... 50 Research objectives ..................................................................................................... 50 Research questions ...................................................................................................... 51 Demographic information ................................................................................................ 51 General findings ............................................................................................................... 52 Silver Waves Design ........................................................................................................ 54 Inspiration from traditional embroidery...................................................................... 54 Inspiration from traditional dress ................................................................................ 55 Initial textile design..................................................................................................... 56 Initial sketch of garment ............................................................................................. 57 Findings from the online survey ................................................................................. 57 Design refinement in response to preliminary assessment ......................................... 58 Description of final design .......................................................................................... 59 Final textile design ...................................................................................................... 60 Final garment design ................................................................................................... 62 Findings from the final evaluation survey .................................................................. 64 Discussion ................................................................................................................... 65 Hejaz Gob’a design .......................................................................................................... 66 Inspiration from traditional embroidery...................................................................... 66 Inspiration from traditional dress ................................................................................ 66 Initial textile design..................................................................................................... 67 Initial sketch of garment ............................................................................................. 68 Findings from the online survey ................................................................................. 68 Design refinement in response to preliminary assessment ......................................... 68 Description of final design .......................................................................................... 69 Final textile designs ...................................................................................................
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