Frances Baard District Municipality (2)

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Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Municipalities and towns:

Sol Plaatje Kimberly, See ‘Kimberley’ for more information Beaconsfield Kenilworth Modderrivier Ritchie Riverton Ronald's Vlei, Spytfontein

Dikgatlong

This is the SeTswana name referring to the convergence of two rivers Barkly West namely the Orange and Vaal Rivers. Barkley West (southeast from Delportshoop Kimberley) is the administrative centre. Agriculture and mining are Longlands the main contributors to the economy within this district. Mount Rupert Sidney-on-Vaal Ulco Windsorton

Magareng Content The choice of name refers to the district’s convergence of two Espagsdrif important transport routes which lead to the two busiest business Warrenton hubs in the country: Windsorton Road • The N12 connecting Gauteng and the Western Cape • The railway line, that connects Gauteng with the Northern and Western Cape Provinces, runs through Magareng Municipality with a railway station at Warrenton, Fourteen Streams and Windsorton Station • The N18 from North West Province as well as the N18 route from the North west also passes through the centre of Warrenton.

Phokwane Ganspan Phokwane was the wife of Kgosi Galeshewe of the BaThlaping tribe. Hartswater The district falls within a green delta and boasts the second largest Jan Kempdorp irrigation scheme in the Southern Hemisphere namely the Vaalharts Pampierstad, Irrigation Scheme. Hartswater is the administrative seat of the Valspan municipality. Agricultural products include grapeas, citrus and olives.

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The N12 Battlefields Route

The main battles in the Northern Cape were fought along what is known today as the N12.

The battle fought to the north of Kimberley around McFarlane’s siding and Dronfield Rided (24 October 1899) was the first battle in which wounded soldiers were evacuated in railway coaches. It was also the first time since the American Civil War that reinforcements were taken by train to the battlefield.

Orange River Station Located just east of Hopetown. (21 November 1899) This was the starting point of the British advance to relief Kimberley. Metheun’s troops built forts and lookout posts along the hills. On the 21 st he ordered his men to break through the Boer lines.

Belmont 2950 Boers under the command of General Prinsloo occupied (23 November 1899) the heights dominating the Belmont station. A total of about 10 500 British soldiers lead by Lord Methuen were camping on Thomas’farm nearby.

Methuen decided on a “ classic night march followed by a dawn assault supported by artillery, with flanking movements Belmont can be seen by his cavalry. After gaining their first objective, the force is to from the Kimberley - pivot slightly and take the higher feature from the south-east, Cape Town road (N 12). with the cavalry ready to cut off the enemy’s retreat” **** (Cloete, 2000). A memorial to fallen Boers has been erected However, his plan fell apart with the Boers opening fire when a little beyond the they were not in position yet. Nevertheless, with the bands Belmont Station that playing, the Scots and the Grenadiers charged to take Gun existed at the time. Hill at bayonet point. Great were their disappointment to see that the Boers had fallen back. They also had to deal with their own artillery firing at them as the latter could not see with the sun shining in their eyes!

The Boers kept on firing from the ridges and small groups covered the retreat of the others northwards.

Killed Wounded Taken prisoner British 54 243 Boers 15 30 36

The British also destroyed 64 wagons that day. The battle belonged to the British and Methuen praised his soldiers saying “With troops like you, no General can fear for the Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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results of his plans”. Graspan Took place approximately 16km from Belmont along the N12 /Enslin/Rooilaagte towards Kimberley. (25 November 1899) The battle was similar to Belmont, albeit on a smaller scale. The key to the battle was a short, steep kopje on the Boer's Graspan can be seen from the left flank. It was attacked by Methuen. He attacked it with, Kimberley - Cape Town road (N 12), 16 km north of Belmont. among others, the Naval Brigade, who captured it at great **** cost. A Naval Brigade memorial rests on a small kopje west of A memorials to fallen Boers has the road. been erected on the site. Killed Wounded Taken prisoner British 17 143 Boers 19 40 43

Modder River /Twee Although it covered a wide front, the center of the battle was Riviere the junction of the Riet River and the Modder River and the 28 November 1899 Railway Bridge. After studying the Boer tactics at Belmont and Graspan, General Koos de la Rey suggested a riverfront defense and men were spread out for about 6 to 7km.

Methuen started his march at 04:30 that morning with the idea of having breakfast at the river. An hour later, Cronje fired with a field-gun and pom-pom on the troops to discourage them from crossing at Bosman’s Drift. Still totally unaware of the Boer’s presence, they assumed that it was the fire of enemy forces defending Jacobsdal. At 08:00 they were about 1.3 km from the river and Methuen was still suspecting nothing. The Boers then started firing with smokeless ammunition and succeeded in pinning the British down, the latter not able to advance on the open veld.

The eastern flank under Colvile was immobilized for the day after attempting to approach the Boers from the east. They ran into the loop of the river that was not indicated on the map, could not find a crossing and came under fire from the north and east.

The British artillery also had a hard time trying to hit enemy that was continuously changing their position. Since the British field-guns could hit visible targets, the poplar trees and surrounding buildings had to the bear the brunt of the shooting.

The western flank under the command of Pole-Carew, had their eyes on taking a farmhouse on the southern bank (near the village) as a strategic key to get to the Boers. He succeeded only after discovering a donga (‘gully in the veld’) from where his men could come into striking distance Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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of the farmhouse and Republican forces on the south.

The 18 th Battery, Royal Field Artillery, was moved across the railway line and put the defence of Rosmead and the Free State Boers on the Western flank under tremendous barrage. The Boers gave way and the village was taken. De la Rey was prevented him from moving men to reinforce the western flank, but Covile’s shelling also prevented from breaking the resistance in front of Pole-Carwe. He therefore decided to call off the new attack, consolidate his position in the village and wait for dark.

As soon as it became dark, the Boers started abandoning their positions and retreated to Spuytfontein.

Killed Wounded Missing British 71 389 18 Killed Wounded Taken prisoner Boers 16 66 13

General Koos de la Rey and his 19-year old son, were among the wounded. De la Rey personally transported his son to the hospital at Jacobsdal, where he died in his father’s arms the next day. Methuen was also wounded during this battle. Crossing the Modder River Bridge you will see the railway bridge blown up by the Boers in October 1899. (Next to the bridge is a 1901 blockhouse built to defend the reconstructed bridge.

Magersfontein 10km from Modder River and 35km from Kimberley along the (11 December 1899) airport road. Bissett's farmhouse was used as a Boer First Aid post. It took place northeast of Modderrivier and is the second of the battles included in the Black Week of the Second Boer War. It was here that General Piet Cronje and his Boer troops defeated British troops under Lord Methuen. The British had suffered heavy casualties: 230 were killed and 663 wounded. Boer losses were 87 dead and 149 wounded.

Killed Wounded Taken prisoner British 230 663 Boers 87 149

Opposite the farmhouse is the imposing Boer memorial and cemetery. Driving around the battlefield with its many memorials and places of interest is allowed but please, stay on the road. Two more memorials are those of the -Black Watch, and to the Scandinavians who fought alongside the Boers. Of the Highland Brigade, the Black Watch (The Royal Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Highlanders) suffered most when the Boers opened fire from hidden trenches. Their former Commanding Officer, Andy Wauchope, then General commanding the Highland Brigade, was killed. Kimberley was under siege at the time.

Koedoesberg Drift On the Riet River, 30km along the Douglas road. Take the (5-8 February 1900) Ritchie turnoff and continue for 9km. The battle, between the Highland Brigade in their first engagement after Magersfontein (now under General Hector Macdonald) and the Boers (under General Christaan de Wet), raged close to the Drift and on the summit of the mountain from 5-8 February 1900. Champion British golfer, Freddie Tait, wounded at Magersfontein, was killed here. A reconnaissance by the British under Lord Roberts feined an attack on the Boer lines, which drew the Boers' attention to their right flank and allowed General French to break through to their left and relieve Kimberley.

Paardeberg A 10-day battle, the largest and bloodiest single battle of the (17-27 February 1900) Anglo Boer War. Paardeberg (Perdeberg on maps) is on the Modder River 40km along the Petrusburg/Bloemfontein road. The battlefield is immense, but is superbly complimented by a field museum. The roofed museum with 2 dioramas is at the railway station at Cronje's lager and Oskoppies (Kitcheners kop). De Wet breached the British lines at the latter, creating a breakout point for the surrounded Boers. The battle of Paardeberg lasted from 17 -27 February.

Boshof 10km east of Boshof, a wild olive tree grows on the crest of the (5 April 1900) largest hill of a low ridge. Mareuil was killed while fighting for the Boers on 5 April 1900 against a force under Lord Methuen. Sergeant Patrick Campbell, estranged husband of Mrs. Patrick Campbell, famous as an actress and as George Bernard Shaw's mistress, also died in battle.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Modderrivier Population: Altitude: Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route N12, 39km south of Kimberley.

Name • Named for the Modder (‘mud’) River

Claims to fame

• The Battle of Modder River /Twee Rivieren (28 November 1899) • The Battle of Magersfontein - 11 December 1899

Historical sites and monuments

Memorials commemorating the Battle of Magersfontein

• A Celtic cross in memory of the Highland Regiment casualties • Black Watch Memorial • British Grave Site marked by a granite monument • Scandinavian Graves • Scandinavia Memorial, made from granite to commemorate the Scandinavians who died fighting on the side of the Boers. • A marble cross between Magersfontein and Modder River for Guards Brigade losses • Burgher Memorial • A memorial to Boer casualties in this battles as well as in other battles through the western campaign. It is located on the gravel road between Kimberley and Modder River. Some other Boers who lost their lives in several other battlefields in this war have since been reinterred here. Memorial to Eleven Transvalers

• The Burgher monument at Magersfontein commemorates many nationalities and names. • The headstone of the young Scottish bugler is of special interest. ‘In memory of a young unknown Scottish Bugler who died of wounds and was buried here by the Burgers. Maggersfontein 11 th December 1999.’ The His name and the reason why he was buried amongst the Boer dead, has Unknown lead to some interesting research results. Since there was no such person Scottish as a “bugler” in a British infantry, it was concluded that he was in fact a Bugler drummer. Bugles were issued to all British infantry through time, but it was given to the drummers who used both instruments. Orders were usually passed through bugles. The “bugler” was recorded in the casualty list as a drummer but carried of the battle field with a bugle used for signaling purposes. The Boers were most probably impressed by this young man’s bravery, therefore burying him among their own instead of handing him back to the British.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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- Built after the battle of Modderrivier to guard the bridge on the railway Blockhouse to Kimberley.

Ritchie Population: Altitude:1118m/3668ft Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field) On route N12 , approximately 39km north west from Kimberley and 40 km north east from Belmont.

Origin Today, the villages of Modder River and Ritchie are centers for an extensive irrigation settlement fed by various canals.

Claims to fame • The village became the first to be captured by the British after the battle of Modder River. • The battle of Koedoesberg was the next to be fought, approximately 15km west of Ritchie.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Hartswater Population Frances Baard Altitude:1135m/3724ft 5263 (census 2001) District Municipality

(Diamond Field)

On Route N18, approximately 94 km south from Vryburg and 17km north of Jan Kempdorp.

Situated at the confluence of the Phokwane and Harts River.

Origin • In 1948 it was laid out as the main centre of the Vaal-Harts irrigation settlement. • Municipal status was granted in 1960. • It is the headquarters of the Vaal-Harts Agricultural Co-operative.

Claims to fame

Vaal-Harts Irrigation Scheme

• It is located in the valley of the episodic Harts River, between Warrenton (south) and Taung (north). • The Vaal-Harts irrigation settlement is the largest in the southern hemisphere and covers an area of 37 000 ha.

Origin • In 1881, the first studies for a project in this region were conducted. • In 1886, a development concession was granted to a private company but it failed to raise the required capital. • In 1934, the parliament approved it as part of a relieve programme for unemployed whites during the Great Depression. • 300 farmers had been settled on smallholdings of 25 ha each by 1940. • A weir diverts water from the Vaal River approximately 10km east of Warrenton and has a storage capacity of about 70 million m³. • The Harts River Valley is 137m lower than that of the Vaal, therefore, gravitation facilitates the flow of water through the 800km-long canal system. • Wheat, cotton, lucerne, groundnuts and a variety of fruit and vegetables are the main crops.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Jan Kempdorp Population Altitude:1171m/3842ft Frances Baard 16366 (census 2001) District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route N18, approximately 107km south of Vryburg / 17km south from Hartswater and 23km north of Warrenton.

It is located at the southern end of the Vaal-Harts irrigation project.

Origin • In 1938 it originated as a camp for workers on the Vaal-Harts irrigation project. • The village was proclaimed as a town in 1954. • It was bisected by the old Cape-Transvaal border: - The regional headquarters of the departments of water affairs and agricultural technical services was located in the eastern portion and they were not proclaimed part of the town. - This resulted in the town being run for a long time by a number of government departments instead of a local authority. - The Jan Kempdorp Act (1964) called for the Transvaal portion of the town to be administered as part of the Cape Province. - Today, the small town is still situated on the boundary between two provinces, North West and the Northern Cape. - The municipality is governed by the Northern Province.

Name • Initially, it was called Andalusia, the farm on which the workers' camp was built. • In 1954, it was renamed after JCG Kemp, Minister of Lands at that time.

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Ganspan Population Altitude:1137m/3730ft Frances Baard 1099 (census 2001) District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route R370, 8km southwest of Jan Kempdorp .

Origin • It was established as a welfare project to rehabilitate white families who could not survive due to impoverishment or other reasons during the Second World War. • A group of disabled ex-servicemen and their families were settled on 1 000 ha of land in 1940. • Seven years later, destitute civilians were also accommodated . • All municipal services were provided free of charge, and the 0.6 ha of land that was allocated to each family was ploughed for them. • The settlement had grown to approximately 800 residents, 216 houses, 58 staff houses, two churches, two primary schools and other small shops by the mid 1990s . • However, many of the inhabitants have since been removed and resettled elsewhere due to the Northern Cape government being unable to maintain the settlement.

Attractions and activities

Ganspan Home to aquatic birds. Nature Reserve

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Warrenton Population Altitude:1191m/3907ft Frances Baard 7960 (census 2001) District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route the N12 (R49) , 23 km south of Jan Kempdorp. On route the N12 , 41km southeast from Christiana (on the old Cape-Transvaal border) and 72km north of Kimberley.

Origin • In 1880, a syndicate of 18 men bought a portion of the farm Grasbult ('grassy hump') on the left bank of the Vaal River to produce fresh vegetables to be supplied to the diggers in Kimberley. • A village was formally established four years later. • In 1888, diamonds were discovered in the gravels of the town, triggering yet another diamond rush. • Mining was finally abandoned in 1926. • Today, it serves as the main commercial centre of the Ghaap Plateau in the west and the irrigation settlement. • It is also an important railway junction for the Cape–Zimbabwe and Cape-Gauteng lines.

The Ghaap Plateau It consists mainly of dolomitic limestone and is a flat, monotonous triangle extending from Kuruman in the west to Campbell and Griquatown in the south.

Name • Named after Sir Charles Warren. He was responsible for bringing the Republics of Stellaland and Goshen under the control of the British and their incorporation into British Bechuanaland. The latter was annexed to the Cape Colony in 1895.

Agriculture • Groundnuts, lucerne, wheat, maize and cotton are grown under irrigation. • Cattle and merino sheep ranching.

Mining and industries • Several cheese factories. • Kaolin (china clay) is also mined in the region.

Attractions and activities

Old sluice • Located west of the town. and • Used in early irrigation works. Persian water- wheel

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Windsorton Population: Altitude:1122m/3681ft Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field) On route R374, approximately 11km north from the N12 about 27 km south of Warrenton and 47 km north of Kimberley on the banks of the Vaal River

Origin • Originated as a mission station called Hebron. • In 1869, hundreds of diggers swarmed to the area after alluvial diamonds were discovered in the gravels of the river. • President M.W. Pretorius of the Transvaal Republic temporarily retreated there from Klipdrift (later Barkley West) when the diggers refused to accept his claim to the land on which they were panning. • Diggers are still active in this region today.

Name • The tented camp was named in honour of P.E Windsor (a trader who owned the land).

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Barkley West Population: Altitude:1116m/3 661ft Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field) On route R31, approximately 31km north of Kimberley and 159km east from Postmasburg. On route R374, approximately 33 km west from Windsorton.

Located on the banks of the Vaal River.

Origin • It originated as a mission station (Pniel) established by the Berlin Missionary Society in 1849. • In 1869, prospectors from Natal, led by Captain Loftus Rolleston, found alluvial diamonds at Canteen Koppie (east of present-day Barkley West). • Another diamond rush followed and a camp was set up on the northern bank of the river. • Despite the land not belonging to any one (no man’s land) a number of people turned up in the following months laying claims on the land: - Jan Bloem (the Koranna Chief) was the first to make a claim and the chiefs of the Tswana and Griqua clans followed him. However, diggers led by Roderick Barker chased them off. - Next the two Boer republics of the Transvaal and the Orange Free State and Britain also showed up. - The Orange Free State laid claim to the south bank of the river and established a magistrate at Pniel. - The Transvaal claimed the northern bank. President M.W Pretorius himself went to Klipdrift to install Hugh Owen as magistrate In June 1870. The diggers under Baker refused to talk to the President, they tore up the Transvaal flag and floated magistrate Owen across the river in a boat. - The diggers proclaimed the independent Republic of Klipdrift on 30 July 1870 and Stafford Parker was elected president. - In March 1871, a team of arbiters awarded the diggings to the Griquas causing the diggers to split up into several rival factions and leave for Kimberley. - Eventually the British intervened and proclaimed the diamond fields under the name of Griqualand West (27 October 1871). The latter was annexed to the Cape Colony in 1879.

Pniel Today a small Khoe/Griqua settlement.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

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Name • Originally it was named Pniel (‘the face of God’) when the mission station was first established in 1849. • Later it became known as Klipdrift (‘rocky ford’) due to an easy fording place at the settlement. • In 1870, it was named Barkely West , after Cape Governor Sir Henry Barkley visited the diggings to give effect to his new sovereignty. • During the Second Anglo-Boer War it was temporarily named Nieu-Boshof.

Claims to fame

Canteen • It was named after the president of the Kliptdrift Republic, Stafford Koppie Parker’s music hall. • This small hill is the location of the first discovery of alluvial diamonds in the area in 1869. • It is also an important archeological site with artefacts pointing to human occupation in prehistoric times. Old • The bridge were built in 1886 and is the oldest across the Vaal River. The tollhouse steel beams were imported from London. and • National monuments. bridge St. Mary’s • The first place of worship built on the diamond fields (1871). Anglican • National monument. church Sarah • In her lifetime, she was one of the most popular English-language Gertrude novelists in South Africa. Born in Kimberley, she grew up on the diamond Millin diggings near the town. As a school girl, she was knocked down by a (1889- cart carrying Cecil John Rhodes. She later wrote his biography, as well as 1968) that of General Jan Smuts. • Her husband, Philip Millin, a judge of the Supreme Court of South Africa, died of heart failure on the bench while she had just begun to write her autobiography, The Measure of My Days, an event which affected her deeply (Margaret Lane, reviewing the autobiography in the Sunday Times). Cecil • It can be viewed on the bank of the river. John • Rhodes once represented Barkley West in the Cape Parliament. Rhodes’ house

Agriculture • Large scale dairy farming • Crops are grown under irrigation (Vaal-Harts irrigation works).

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Mining and industries

Diggers still do panning along the Vaal River.

Sonop Diamond Mining , South Africa’s largest private alluvial diamond mining company operates alluvial diamond mining operations in the area and elsewhere.

‘Beaumont’s Folly’ The pool below the Kimberley bridge is linked to an effort of George Beaumont who set a large dredger afloat in an effort to retrieve diamonds from the bottom (1898). However, the operation failed due to the uneven surface of the riverbed.

Attractions and activities

• Located under the bridge which links the road from Kimberley Barkley West across the Vaal River with Barkley West. Pleasure Resort • Offers a swimming pool as well as a swimming hole in the river, picnic facilities etc.

Riverboat • Offers river cruises with meals and sunset drinks. Rietgat / • The pub was used during the recording of the musical cd Riviergat Pub “Kuiergat”. Die Pomphuis (‘the • A pub overlooking the Vaal River. pump house’)

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Delportshoop Population: Altitude:1025m/3363ft Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route R31, from Kimberley approximately 27 km northwest of Barkley West all along the railway line passes several sidings with names associated with diamond diggings such as Bad Hope, Gong-Gong and winter’s Rush.

Situated at the confluence of the Vaal and Harts River.

Origin • The first settlement in the area was the Likatlhong (‘meeting place’) mission station. The name refers to the confluence of the two rivers mission station. • The town originated as a camp for diamond diggers in 1870s. • Today, alluvial diamonds are still in the area and most of the residents are employed at the open-cast lime quarry and cement factory about 12 km further along the road at the mining village of Ulco.

Attractions and activities

• The inlet tower and pumping station is situated near Delportshoop Vaal and consists of reservoirs, purification works and a 300 km network Gamogare of pipelines. Water • It supplies water to the Finsch diamond mine, as well as the Project following mining towns: (commissioned − Postmasburg in 1965) − Hotazel (where manganese is mined) − Dingleton, formerly Sishen (iron ore).

• The National Park used to be located just south of Delportshoop adjacent Sydney on Vaal Mines but has been relocated to ………. Due to a land claim. Vaalbos • Recently the park became part of SA Governmental Land Claims National Park and was relocated. (location to confirm) (22 696ha) • The name is derived from the most dominant vegetation, vaalbos or camphor bush.

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Koopmansfontein Population: Altitude:1373m/4505ft Frances Baard Rainfall: District Municipality (Diamond Field)

On route R31 , approximately 31km north west from Delportshoop and 98km east from Postmasburg.

• Located on the Ghaap Plateau- a featureless plain with relevant dense vegetation dominated by camel thorn trees.

Origin • Originated as a railway siding. • Currently serving as a small trading centre for the small village.

Name • Probably named for a Griqua named Koopman (‘Buy man’).

Resources and further reading

DK. Eyewitness Travel-South Africa. Dorling Kindersley Limited (London). 2007.

Cloete,

Erasmus, BPJ. On route in South Africa . Jonathan Ball Publishers. 2004.

Frances Baard district municipality guide. Frances Baard District Municipality Publication.

Naudé-Moseley, B. and Moseley, S. Getaway guide to Karoo, Namaqualand and Kalahari. Sunbird Publishers. 2008 (first edition).

Norman, N. & Whitfield, G. Geological Journeys. Struik Publishers. 2006.

Stevens, U. Finding Pofadder – the West Coast, Namqualand & Northern Cape. Wanderlust Books. 2008 (1 st edition)

The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. Rough Guides. June 2005.

Who was Magersfontein’s “Young Unknown Scottish Bugler”. Military History Journal Vol.4 Part 6. 1979.

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Websites www.francesbaard.gov.za www.northerncape.org.za www.routes.co.za www.statssa.gov.za (population density for the main places, Census 2001). www.suninternational.com

Maps Destination Magersfontein.

Explorer Map South Africa. The Northern Cape – follow the sun not to the crowds.

Visits and photos

Exploration-research Field Trips. Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd. 2006

Oral Resources

“Six Mabone” – owner of the local shop in Windsorton.

Compiled by Maria Louise Kruger (2008)