WALKING IN THE – EAST WALKING IN About the Author THE PEAK DISTRICT – Paul Besley has spent a lifetime walking through the dales and villages of the White Peak. His interest is in the human interaction with landscape. His WHITE PEAK EAST love of the ancient – whether it is a Neolithic burial chamber, a Norman church or the medieval ridge and furrow landscape – has provided him with thousands of hours of enjoyment. His desire to pass on his experi- 42 WALKS IN INCLUDING , ences has always informed his writing. MATLOCK AND He is a regular contributor to magazines. His writing has taken him across Britain and across the world, working on varied subject matter. He by Paul Besley is a team member of Mountain Rescue and a dog handler in Mountain Rescue Search Dogs with his Border collie. He lives in with his wife, metalsmith Alison Counsell, and their three dogs Olly, Monty and search dog Scout.

Other Cicerone guides by the author Walks

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Paul Besley 2020 Third edition 2020 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 85284 976 4 Second edition 2009 Map key...... 8 First edition 2004 Overview map...... 9

Printed in China on responsibly sourced paper on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd INTRODUCTION ...... 11 Geology...... 12 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Plants and wildlife...... 14 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. History...... 16 Local communities...... 21 Customs...... 23 © Crown copyright 2020 OS PU100012932 Peak District National Park...... 25 Local services and transport...... 25 The walks...... 25 Additional route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Responsible walking...... 26 © Crown copyright 2020 OS PU100012932. Maps and navigation ...... 27 NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Using this guide...... 27

In memory of Daniel Sells NORTHERN SECTION...... 29 Walk 1 Bradwell to Offerton...... 31 Walk 2 Hope to Shatton ...... 37 Walk 3 Longshaw to Curbar Gap...... 41 Updates to this guide Walk 4 to White Edge...... 46 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of Walk 5 to Wardlow...... 51 guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an Walk 6 Eyam to Abney ...... 54 edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone Walk 7 Eyam to Grindleford...... 59 website (www.cicerone.co.uk/976/updates), so please check before Walk 8 Eyam Village...... 63 planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such Walk 9 Tideswell to ...... 68 things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way Walk 10 Curbar to Gardom’s Edge ...... 72 can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any Walk 11 Calver to ...... 77 discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by Walk 12 Calver to Great Longstone...... 81 email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Walk 13 to ...... 85 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Walk 14 Chatsworth to Beeley ...... 88 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers Walk 15 Ashford in the Water to Monsal Head...... 92 and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Walk 16 Bakewell to Chatsworth...... 97 Walk 17 Bakewell to Monsal Head...... 102 Walk 18 Bakewell to Over Haddon...... 106 Front cover: Descending a miners path into Bonsall (Walk 24) Walk 19 to Sheldon...... 111 Walk 20 Rowsley to ...... 114 Acknowledgements SOUTHERN SECTION...... 119 Writing a walking guidebook is always a collaboration between people. Walk 21 to Elton...... 121 While researching the walks in this book I talked with local people who Walk 22 Middleton to Elton ...... 126 gave me a wealth of information that helped to add interest and depth to my Walk 23 Middleton to Kenslow Knoll...... 131 words. There were too many to mention here but I owe them a great deal. Walk 24 to Bonsall...... 135 Mark Richards deserves much of the credit for getting me involved Walk 25 Matlock to Dethick...... 140 in book writing; without his help this book would never have existed. I Walk 26 Biggin to ...... 145 owe a big thank you to the team at Cicerone Press: Joe Williams, Andrea Walk 27 Cromford to Black Rock ...... 151 Grimshaw, Sian Jenkins, Hannah Stevenson, Felicity Laughton, Amy Hodkin Walk 28 Cromford to Crich...... 155 and Caroline Draper. Walk 29 Middleton to Harboro Rocks...... 158 Some people gave more than a few words and accompanied me Walk 30 Brassington to Kniveton...... 162 on the walks, checked the accuracy of the directions and generally kept Walk 31 Parwich to Alsop en le Dale ...... 168 nudging me forward. I would specifically like to thank Alison Counsell, Walk 32 Parwich to ...... 171 Gail Ferriman, David Mason – along with Megan and Griff – Tony Hood, Walk 33 to ...... 175 Dave Torr and Ian Wood. And a special mention to Scout, my Border Walk 34 Tissington to ...... 181 collie walking companion. Thank you all for your companionship and Walk 35 Ashbourne to Thorpe...... 185 advice. I need to thank Mark Goodwin and Jo Dacombe for allowing me to LONG WALKS AND TRAILS...... 189 use Mark’s wonderful poem that Jo inscribed into rock on Walk 4. Art and Walk 36 Derwent Valley Heritage Way...... 190 landscape have a long history of friendship and I feel it is important that we Walk 37 Eastern Gritstone Trail...... 194 celebrate the two in situ whenever we can. Walk 38 ...... 198 Finally, and most importantly, my family: Alison Counsell, my partner Walk 39 White Peak Circular ...... 203 of many years, and our dogs Olly, Monty and Scout. You all made it so enjoyable. White Peak Trails...... 209 Walk 40 ...... 210 Walk 41 ...... 213 Walk 42 ...... 216

Appendix A Route summary table...... 219 Appendix B Useful websites ...... 222 Appendix C Bibliography and further reading ...... 223 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East Overview map

Features on the overview map Additional symbols on the Derwent LOCATION OF ROUTES 1:100,000 route maps Reservoir County/Unitary boundary Relief 800m station/railway A57 Urban area 600m 400m Ladybower SCALE: 1:100,000 Reservoir National Park 200m 0 kilometres 1 2 eg PEAK DISTRICT 75m Sheffield Stanage 0m 0 miles 1 Route symbols on the Hope Edge 1:50,000 OS map extracts (Walks 1–35) and Contour lines are drawn at Castleton 2 Brough 1:100,000 route maps (Walks 36–42) 50m intervals and A625 A6187 highlighted at 200m Bradwell 1 Hathersage route (1:50,000 OS maps) intervals. 3 route (1:100,000 route maps) A623 PEAK DISTRICT 4 Relief Grindlefordcq A61 start/finish point 700m Grindlow 67 cr 600m 5 Eyam A621 start point 500m Tideswell 8 Stoney Middleton 400m 9 Calver finish point 300m Wardlow $ # ! route direction 200m Great A6 Longstone 100m Blackwell Baslow (for OS legend see printed OS maps) A53 % Ashford in Taddington the Water A619 GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/976/GPX. ( dm*) & Flagg Bakewell + Beeley A515 Monyash ,cs Rowsley Youlgreave bu

dudl - A6 Pilsbury Middleton bm bn Birchover A632 DERBYSHIRE ct Hartington bo Biggin bq Matlock bp Warslow A5012 Grangemill brbs Alstonefield Longcliffe bt cl Parwich cu cn cm Wirksworth Tissington A6 A523 co Carsington N Water Kniveton

A52 0 5 km cp A517 0 2.5 miles Ashbourne

8 The Sherwood Foresters Monument (Walk 28) 9 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East

INTRODUCTION

Always take time to rest and enjoy the view (Walk 21)

Walking in the White Peak landscape green pastures, so essential for the is a restorative experience. The gentle sheep that inhabit much of the coun- rolling hills, the long sinewy dales, tryside, are man-made; their develop- the green grass and white limestone ment dependent on the many lime- flecked with the vivid eye-catching kilns that still dot this landscape. The primary colours of wildflowers – all limestone walls that are so evocative fill the mind and body with a sense of the area tell a story of continuing of wellbeing. Time is the essence of development of common lands for this landscape and it should be spent private use. The green lanes cross- wisely and slowly in order to capture ing the plateau and dales show how all it has to offer. humans moved between the isolated Although formed during the car- villages and areas of work. boniferous period, the human hand White Peak villages are beautiful. is prominent in the White Peak. The These small isolated communities are

10The Cork Stone, (Walk 20) 11 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East Geology little changed even with the arrival of GEOLOGY ‘reef limestone’, formed from settle- to the oddly placed tor at Harboro the car. Many have churches that date The Peak is formed of a gritstone cap, ment within the tropical ocean. This Rocks. Volcanic rock, locally called back to Norman times, often retaining interspersed with shale, mudstone and limestone holds the fossil record of ‘toadstone’, is often associated with original medieval features. These are coal, that sits above a limestone bed. billions of creatures and has escaped the ancient watercourses. Ashford wonderful buildings, full of local and These two geological features form much of the erosion seen in the pre- Black Marble, a very dense, finely national history and are a delight to the two areas commonly known as vious types. It is very hard wearing, grained limestone, is found in only visit on a hot summer day. the Dark Peak and the White Peak. evidenced by the many reef knolls a few quarries around Ashford in the If there is one piece of advice I The Dark Peak landscape of gritstone that populate the southern part of the Water. Once worked, it produces would give walkers it is to take your is often joined by peat moor and bog, White Peak, the best example being highly decorative ornamental pieces. time. This is not a landscape of the particularly on the northern and east- Thorpe Cloud at the foot of . On the northern and eastern arduous epic. It is a land of mystery, ern fringes, but outcrops of gritstone This fossil record of crinoids, known fringes, the gritstone layer is still story and magic. I once led a group do appear as far south as Matlock. locally as ‘Derbyshire screws’, can be much in evidence, producing the of people into a White Walkers in the White Peak will experi- seen in the walls, stiles and footpaths long ‘edges’ that sit above the valley after snow had fallen all night long. ence a limestone landscape laid down that have given human shape to this floor, then occasionally surfacing as As the morning winter sun tried to around 360 million years ago when landscape. seemingly isolated tors, such as the spread a little warmth, we stood at the area was covered in a tropical sea. Other types of limestone occa- ones found at Robin Hood’s Stride the entrance to a long, narrow valley. The sea creatures that lived and died sionally emerge from the land. near Harthill, and Black Rock near The only sound to be heard was the formed the limestone bed that is almost Dolomitized limestone gave rise Cromford. crystal-clear stream babbling along 2000 metres thick in some areas. Over the floor of the dale. The landscape the millions of years that followed, the was covered in a thick blanket of White Peak developed two distinct snow as though some magical hand types of landscape: the limestone pla- had folded bright white meringue teau and the limestone dales. across the dale. A single robin worked One of the three main types of its way over the peaks and folds, its limestone found in the Peak District, red breast vivid against the pure ‘shelf limestone’ has the greatest white landscape. All was quiet and, depth in all the area. The rolling land- perhaps because of that, we entered scape of rounded hills and convex the dale in silence, continuing our slopes running down to rivers at the solitary contemplations as we moved bottom of the many dales is indicative through this real-life Narnia. At the of this type of geological structure. end we emerged onto a road so deep The second type, ‘basin limestone’, in snow the hedgerow had all but van- can be found in the southern area of ished. We never said a word but, as the Peak. It is much darker in colour we looked at one another, we knew and has significantly less depth than we had just experienced something shelf limestone. Both shelf and basin personal, something magical, and that limestone are subject to weather- it was ours alone to keep. I hope you ing and erosion, which are often find your own special corner of this seen today in the deep pitting on the magical landscape. surface of the rock. The final type is

12 Looking across 60 million years, gritstone to limestone13 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East Plants and wildlife

The White Peak is rich in mineral PLANTS AND WILDLIFE deposits of copper, fluorspar, calcite The White Peak is a rich tapestry of and particularly lead. The miner- interconnecting habitats, from man- als sitting in veins that run through aged pasture, steep limestone slopes the limestone bed to great depths and ancient woodland to meadow, have been mined since well before watercourse and roadside verge. Roman times. In the 19th century This landscape hosts a wide vari- these geological features formed the ety of plants and animals, some of basis of a huge mining industry in the which are location dependent and White Peak. Villages such as Bonsall, some are important for their rarity. Wirksworth and Winster were impor- Until the Middle Ages the landscape tant mining centres. Today the mining remained essentially untouched, is all but gone, although the towns except in the immediate environs of and villages still retain the buildings hamlets and villages. The surrounding and grandeur that resulted from the land was used for crop production on wealth the industry brought to the the feudal ridge and furrow system, communities. It also provided the whereby each member of the commu- Wildflowers are abundant in the White Peak beautifully walled lanes enjoyed by nity was responsible for a strip of land walkers today that were originally and the production of crops for the access tracks to and from the mines. landowner and fellow villagers. The Where sheep cannot gain access, man-made ponds, shaped like a des- Fluorspar is still mined at Glebe Mine introduction of sheep onto the land the slopes are covered in rich ferns. sert bowl, collected and held rainwa- in the north of the limestone plateau, caused a change in its management. Meadows grown for winter feed pro- ter to be used by stock. They were an the mineral being important in the Farmers built limekilns and spread the vided a rich habitat for oxeye daisy, important part of the highly managed production of chemicals and metal- lime onto the surrounding fields to buttercup and knapweed. In the 20th farming process. But as sheep farm- lurgical goods. To see an excellent encourage the healthy growth of grass century these meadows fell out of ing declined the dewponds fell out of example of what the mines used to for grazing. Today many of the lime- favour and many were destroyed or use and into disrepair. Some are being look like, visit the near kilns survive and offer an important cultivated for crop growing. Today rehabilitated as they provide a perfect Sheldon (Walk 19). record of the land’s use. their significance to local and national habitat for the great crested newt. Any visitor to the White Peak Successive Enclosure Acts and wildlife has been noted and meadows Drive along any road in the White will see the giant limestone quarries the management techniques brought are making a comeback in the Peak. Peak and you will see a wonderful that abound on the plateau. Although in by the monastic landlords changed A wonderful example of their impor- display of plant life in the verges. The these have only scratched the surface the way in which the land was used. tance has been the support they have profusion of colour in spring and early of a 1.2 mile (2km) limestone bed, But the slopes that bounded the dales provided the curlew, a bird that has summer, such as the purple meadow they are still significant holes in the were too steep for crops and remain seen a steep decline in recent years. cranesbill, is often a good indicator of ground. They cater for our seemingly untouched, except for the few sheep The Enclosure Acts brought about an old route, especially if accompa- endless need for road stone, building that chose to graze there. A diverse a fragmented landscape, deline- nied by ancient hawthorn hedgerows. materials and cement and it is per- collection of plant life thrives on these ated by limestone walls that often To the north and east lie the grit- haps worth reflecting on how our own slopes, including cowslip, wild thyme separated livestock from vital water stone and peat fringes. Here you will needs affect the landscape that we and early purple orchid, as well as the sources. The ingenious solution was find the wonderful heather, spec- seek to enjoy. rare Jacob’s ladder. the dewpond. These large, circular, tacular in August with its vivid pink

14 15 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East

INTRODUCTION WALK 1 Bradwell to Offerton

The walks covering the northern sec- almost vertical slopes to give a feel- tion of this guide place you at the ing of enclosure and seclusion as you Start/Finish St Barnabas Church, Bradwell SK 174 810 boundary of two very different land- walk beside a crystal-clear stream. Distance 12 miles (19km) scapes. The walks straddle the edge The dales are full of wildflowers in Ascent/Descent 755m of both the Dark Peak gritstone land- spring, rafts of colour heralding the Time 6hr scape of the high moorlands of the rebirth of nature. Terrain Minor roads, open fields, footpath, trails and moorland north and the pastoral farming land- Evidence of ancient history seems Map OS 1:25000 Explorer OL24 White Peak scape of the limestone White Peak. to increase as you progress south Refreshments Bradwell The communities that developed in through the area. Stanton Moor has a Parking Bradwell, on-street parking the gritstone of the northern area are wonderful and so many large and more concentrated in the other ancient sites that it attracts a valleys. These were formed 300 mil- large gathering during the summer lion years ago as the land mass was and winter solstice. Ancient artefacts Bradwell sits astride the Dark and White Peak. Geologically this is gritstone travelling north and the great river that abound in the area and make for an and limestone country. The walk from this typical Peak District village we now know as the Rhine spilled out interesting focal point for a walk. with its narrow lanes and huddled houses requires a little stamina at the its sandy sediment into the delta that The great estate of Chatsworth with beginning, but the reward is magnificent. If you have never walked across a was to become the Derwent Valley. its grand house and gardens set in moor before, then Offerton Moor will be a new experience that will entice Walking along the moorland Capability Brown parkland is a mag- you to venture further into the Dark Peak at a later date. paths above Eyam will give you a net for people interested in art and sense of what it is like to walk in the cultural history. The house contains high moorlands of the Dark Peak that many precious works of art while the Starting from St Barnabas Church, walk SE along the you can see wrapping around you to gardens, planned by Joseph Paxton of B6049, and take the next road left, opposite the Shoulder the north and east. There are some Crystal Palace fame, are a pleasure to of Mutton pub. Continue along the narrow road to The beautiful ancient woodlands to walk sit and relax in. Green. Bear left down Bessie Lane to Edge Lane then through, welcome on a hot day in late The largest town in the White ascend to a public bridleway. Follow the bridleway sign- spring or early summer when the air Peak is Bakewell, a must visit on a post through a gate and, after passing a stone gatepost on is thick with the aroma of wild garlic Monday when the traditional market your right, leave the bridleway and take the footpath right and woodland bluebell. The walks is in full swing. This is a farming com- to a squeeze stile at the junction of two walls. Follow the around Grindleford and Longshaw are munity so, along with the stalls sell- line of the wall right, through a metal gate onto Bradwell particularly good for this. ing everything from original Bakewell Edge. Cross a field to go through a second squeeze stile at To the west you get your first pudding to wooden clothes pegs, you a wall junction then follow the footpath past a dewpond taste of the deep limestone dales will find prize sheep and cattle being on your left and the remains of Robin Hood’s Cross by that thread through the White Peak. auctioned. the wall on the right. At the end, go through a metal gate Towering limestone cliffs march along and over a stone stile into Brough Lane.

30 31 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East Walk 1 – Bradwell to Offerton

Once onto the moor there are fine views of the Turn right to go through a metal gate and proceed northern Dark Peak. To the northwest, the mass along Brough Lane, ignoring all side footpaths. Cross the of sits beyond the ; in wooden stile just after the lane to Abney and continue the north are the waters and gritstone edges of the along the track through a farm gate. As it sweeps left then Upper Derwent Valley; and to the east, the line of descends to the right it brings you to a metal farm gate. fringes the skyline. Go through and follow the track through another gate then pass the communication mast on Shatton Moor.

32 33 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East Walk 1 – Bradwell to Offerton

These Peak and Northern Footpath Society signs can be found all over the Peak District. Beautifully made they are often a welcome confirmation that you are in fact on the right path. For over 100 years the society has kept a watchful eye on all the foot- paths and, where attention is required, it liaises with the appropriate authority.

Take the footpath to Bradwell crossing two stiles to return to Brough Lane. Turn left and retrace your steps At this stage of from earlier in the day. Crossing over the stile, passing the walk you may the lane to Abney and then, where the track sweeps right, encounter a strange take the footpath left over the wall onto Abney Moor. whirring noise. This Follow the undulating footpath across the moor to the is the gear winching road above Abney Grange. a glider into the sky. Go over a stile and turn right along the road. Where the tarmac track to Abney Grange meets the road take the footpath through the gate on your left. Cross the field opposite Camphill diagonally to the top left-hand corner, go through a second gate to follow a wall line down to a small stream. Go over the stream and follow the fence line SW past an abandoned house. Cross a second stream keeping SW uphill to a gate by a small underground res- ervoir then exit onto a road. Go left down the road to where the woodland starts and take the footpath right, down to the local school, then follow the lane into Great Hucklow. The view from Further on, where the track becomes a road on a sharp Turn right through the centre of the village, pass the to left bend, follow the bridleway right, through the wooden Queen Anne pub and take the lane on your right. Where Kinder Scout farm gate and across fields. Keeping the wall on your left, the lane splits take the right-hand fork through the gate. walk along the bridleway until you reach the farm gate Follow the farm track through a second gate to a signpost leading onto the road at Offerton Hall. where the track turns uphill to the right. Follow the sign- Go through the gate onto the road and take the stile post going over the stile on the right at the junction of two immediately right to follow the footpath uphill onto walls, then cross fields, keeping the fence line on your The Peak and Offerton Moor. Follow the moorland path SW across right, to a second stone stile in the corner. Cross the stile Northern Footpath Offerton Moor, crossing a wooden footbridge over Siney then walk diagonally NW to pass through a gate and fol- Society signs are a Sitch and through a gate in a stone wall to a footpath low the fence line down to another gate. Go through the helpful and often sign, number 456, placed there, on Smelting Hill, by the gate and down the field to the left-hand corner of a large welcome indicator Peak and Northern Footpath Society (PNFS). industrial building and a PNFS sign. Follow the footpath of direction across along the side of a building through two metal gates to a the moors

34 35 Walking in the Peak District – White Peak East

tarmac lane leading to Quarters Farm. Turn left down the lane to the B6049. WALK 2 Turn right, along the B6049 and at the entrance to Hope to Shatton Hazelbadge Hall Farm cross the road and ascend Green Dale to a tarmac lane. Turn right then, when the lane sweeps sharp right, go left up Jennings Dale. Go through Start/Finish St Peter’s Church, Hope SK 172 835 the gate at the top and turn right along Earl Rake then Distance 5.5 miles (9km) immediately left and ascend through woodland to a Ascent/Descent 200m wooden stile to enter a field. Walk up through the field Time 3hr and where the path enters open ground follow its course Terrain Minor country roads, open fields, footpath to cross a stone stile. Go left along the wall line to a road. Map OS 1:25000 Explorer OL1 Dark Peak Turn right along the road the right again down the lane to Refreshments Hope Hartlemoor Farm. Halfway along the lane, take the stile Parking Hope SK 171 834 on your left over a wall and across a field to a second stile, then turn right and follow the fenced footpath around the limestone quarry to a road. Turn right down the road and then take the footpath next left down to a wooden This short walk passes through some of the ancient villages that sit either power pylon. Turn right here and follow the path down to side of the gritstone/limestone divide as well as visiting the remains of the a tarmac road. Turn right then immediately left through a Roman fort of Navio. The gentle stroll across the valley pastures is perfect for Bradwell Cottages squeeze stile and follow the footpath to return to Bradwell. an afternoon foray or pre Sunday lunch outing. There are fine views along the valley and the gritstone edges of Kinder Scout, Bamford and Stanage.

From St Peter’s Church in Hope, walk N down Edale Tin Town was built Road passing on your right the only remaining dwelling to house the workers from Birchinlee (Tin Town).4Where the road forks, bear who constructed the right to continue past a barn on your left to a track lead- Derwent Valley dams. ing to a fenced lane. Walk down the lane to the house, go diagonally left across the yard and ascend steps into a field. Follow the footpath through the gate along the side of the hedge, over a stile and, after the second gate, turn left up the field to go beneath the rail bridge via a white gate. Turn right through two gates into a field. Walk diagonally right across the field and exit via a gate onto the lane directly below Farfield Farm. Turn right past the farm to a minor road junction, then go left towards Aston. Before entering Aston, where the road crosses a stream, go right through a farm gate marked Kiln Croft and walk through another gate along the front of the houses following the left-hand fence. After the houses

36 37