Masquerade 9 Kyoto.Pdf

KYOTO callingBy Cassidy Hazelbaker Today Tokyo is Japan’s vibrant and bustling capital, but for more than one thousand years, Kyoto was the 174 country’s imperial capital. The city remains the cultural 175 heart of contemporary Japan, and its residents are fiercely proud of their city’s history and traditions. Cassidy Hazelbaker reports. Sleepy and jet-lagged, I arrived in Kyoto to find hotel, while the iconic Kyoto Tower is across small bites of a variety of Japanese dishes such a crisp autumn breeze and a woman in a kimono the street. Sleek and modern, Hotel Granvia as shrimp tempura, fresh vegetables, baked awaiting me. “Welcome to Kyoto,” she said as is a shiny glass structure, reflecting the high fish, Kobe beef, glutinous rice, salad, and miso she performed a respectful bow, the first of rises which surround it. A glass atrium covers soup. After dinner I retire to the Sky Lounge many I was to see in the coming days and an the communal walkway connecting the hotel, at the top of the hotel. With live music in the act that I later learned to execute myself. This department store and train station, providing background, it is a great place to enjoy an after- dainty woman was called Tomoko and had a light and a sense of space to the packed walkway dinner drink and watch the twinkling lights of short haircut, sweet smile and a heart as big as underneath. this ancient and still vibrant city. Japan. Any trace of trepidation I faced towards being in a foreign culture surrounded by a The hotel lobby echoes traditional minimalistic First stop on my list is one of the myriad of language I knew nothing of was quickly erased elements of Japanese design while maintaining temples found in Kyoto. I am greeted at the by this woman’s kindness and reinforced by the a comfortable atmosphere. My room’s décor is entrance of Kiyomizu Dera Temple by the many personalities with whom I subsequently mostly composed of neutrals and warm beiges resident Buddhist monk. He is tall and quite interacted. while the white fluffy bedding is a welcome sight striking, wearing white garments topped by a after my long flight. My room offers a beautiful black robe complete with a golden sash. Exuding After a 90 minute car ride from Osaka airport, vista of the cityscape and the Toji temple (the an air of tranquility, he accompanies the tour I arrived to the Hotel Granvia, which is located tallest pagoda in Japan) with majestic mountains around the temple complex. The temple was directly in front of Kyoto Central station, in the background. first built in the 8th century halfway up the making it an ideal sleeping spot for those taking Otowa Mountain, but faced several fires and the bullet train to or from Tokyo. Unlike many Hotel Granvia contains a plethora of dining was thus rebuilt in the early 17th century. The large cities around the world, the area around options with cuisines from all around the world, construction was orchestrated by the Shogun the station is clean, pleasant and energetic. The near and far. My favorite is the authentic bento (lead Samurai) Tokugawa Iemitsu, and was built ten-story Isetan department store is next to the box served in Le Temps Restaurant, containing using a special method that doesn’t use a single nail to hold all the boards and pillars pistachio-nougat dessert topped with a tender fig. twice a year, during holiday times, and speaks to in place. Instead, all the building Even after living five years in Paris, I can safely her friends occasionally though they’re very busy components fit together like say I rarely have eaten so well. with exams at the moment, she explains. Asked a puzzle. Designated by if she had seen the film Memoirs of a Geisha, UNESCO in 1994 as a One of the highlights of Kyoto is a visit to an she giggles that she watched it on Youtube. historic monument of okiya - a Geisha boarding house. I am granted Perhaps the biggest surprise is seeing her eyes Kyoto, the main hall the opportunity to speak with a maiko- geisha in light up at the mention of Justin Bieber and the is an open room that training- which allows me a glimpse into what girly giggle that she cannot suppress. Perfectly leads onto an enormous is traditionally a private and quite secretive at home in the classic world of a geisha, there is terrace which juts out element of Japanese society. The boarding house also room for modernity within her - symbolic over a hillside and offers ‘mother’ greets us, explaining that the teenage of the historical city in which she resides. panoramic views of the maiko is under her sponsorship, taking classes city. Popular legend during to master the great Japanese traditional arts, To have a more traditional and authentic the Edo period said that if while as the sponsor she provides food, lodging Japanese experience, I checked into the Ryokan you jump from the terrace, and exquisite kimonos- a very expensive part of Yoshida Sanso. The ryokan (traditional inn) which stands at a height of 13 a geisha’s life. was constructed in 1932 as a residence for the meters, your wishes will come Emperor of Japan’s uncle and was transformed true. The practice is now prohibited As the maiko enters, one cannot help but to into an inn 16 years later. Built from beautiful but the ancient legend has inspired a stare. White face, pursed red lips, and elaborate cypress wood, the ryokan contains six bedrooms, modern-day Japanese idiom - to ‘jump over coiffeur, she is captivating. But a girl of 18, her each comprising elegant futons and furniture. the veranda of Kiyomizu Temple’ means to poise and confidence are those of a distinguished All the rooms have full-length windows looking undertake a daring adventure. Wrapping back lady. She glides rather than moves; not once does onto the beautiful garden that surrounds the around to the entrance, I bid goodbye to the she make a sudden, swift movement. Every turn house, and one even has a terrace overlooking KYOTOmonk. I admire the three-tiered pagoda and the of her head or twirl of her feet is deliberate and the surrounding hills and a nearby pagoda. niomon gate that stand guard to the temple, and measured as she expertly performs a traditional The tatami floor is smooth and silky to touch, turn around for one last glimpse of the monk, dance and plays a song on the koto, a large and the embossed wall coverings shimmer in only to see that, in the blink of an eye, he has stringed instrument. the sunlight. A chrysanthemum motif, allowed vanished into the bright colors and intricate only to decorate royal residences, is prevalent Drinking the tea involves details of Kiyomizu. throughout the house and is a reminder of the a precise rotation of the tea ryokan’s imperial connections. The entire space bowl, which must be turned 176 Omnipresent in Kyoto is green tea - whether As the maiko enters, is the definition of tranquility. 177 flavoring various dessert items or being one could not help but stare. halfway before consumption consumed by locals in cafes. In order to truly White face, pursed red lips, Reputed to be one of the most luxurious and then returned to its grasp the significance of the beverage to Japanese ryokans, Yoshida Sanso is as respected for its tradition, I meet with a tea ceremony master. An and elaborate coiffeur, accommodation as for its gourmet kaiseki-style original position after occupation open to men and women, masters she was captivating. cuisine. Sitting down to a candle-lit table, I completion. study and train between 10 to 15 years before But a girl of 18, her poise and am treated to multiple courses of traditional achieving certification. I observe the complex confidence are those of Japanese dishes such as pumpkin soup, grilled process of brewing and filtering the tea, which barracuda with chestnut, and scallops with involves quite a line-up of pottery, ladles, bowls, a distinguished lady. sweet petit potatoes. The presentation is napkins and a bamboo whisk. The final result is impeccable - mini bites arranged artistically on a neon-green foamy tea, with a thick consistency handmade pottery plates, while rice and soup and a surprisingly smooth taste. Drinking the tea are served in traditional Japanese lacquered involves a precise rotation of the tea bowl, which bowls. Tomoko, who had greeted me at the must be turned halfway before consumption airport, is the daughter of the owners of Yoshida and then returned to its original position after Sanso and is our hostess for the evening. Her completion. Tea is accompanied by namakashi After, she sits to speak to us about her life warm hospitality makes the dinner and the sweets, which usually are composed of a semi- path. I grappled to fully comprehend how it entire stay very personal. Wearing the flower- sweet dough with a red bean filling. must be to grow up in contemporary Japanese patterned kimono that is provided in my room, society, attending school, laughing with friends, I feel right at home. Of the many delicious meals I enjoyed during shopping in malls, and then to break away from my stay in Kyoto, one stood out: a lovely lunch it all at 15 to pursue the very structured, mature Kyoto is a destination worth many weeks of created by Chef Patron Inoué Téruo of the and private life of a geisha.

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