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7 kawayuka pickles, confectionery, confectionery, pickles, . Don’t miss the oyster , which welcome guests JANUARY 2019 machiya loop into the rural past among and Imperial Palace Park l With English sat self-driving nav, in is easy (and on the left). Try a around valleys the in farms thatched the Miyama region You’reKyoto. welcomed for a night in a ryokan (futon bed, dinner), and can pootle back on the old imperial highway along Lake Biwa’s eastern shore (£390 for two, with car and japan-experience.com). ryokan; rammed with rammed fish — perhaps whale meat — and less (often specimens seafoody identifiable writhing)still and saké bar by the exit: giant succulent bivalves cost £3 each. The highlight, though, is the knife shop founded by an imperial master swordsmith in 1560. l Cherry blossom is one of the most It’s Japan. in attractions spellbinding already busting out this month in its while and Okinawa, subtropical waves won’t reach before late March, it is such a crowd-puller that you should book now. Stick these hotspots Maruyama Map: Park Google your on the Kamo river, comes alive at night. The with flow flagstones 500-year-old carousers, heading past (or into) the ancient wooden townhouses as (usually at a price). Look for garish banners and lanterns. From May to trySeptember l A must-do preliminary to Kyoto’s celebrated cuisine is a saunter through Market Nishiki rashes of blooms flutter calmly, lighting the scene palely, the way snow does l Tangerine lanterns, pots of uplit foliage, menus on darkwood stands: pretty Pontocho a terrace overlooking a flowing river’. many Beware: l Geisha-spotting? are tourists with makeovers. Look for the real deal around 6pm, which is business the for time clocking-on underpin that parties and banquets workload. geisha’s 21st-century the Typically, geishas charge £800 for a two-hour dinner. Instead, try song, dance and talk with apprentice geishas (maikos) at tables for four at Gion £127pp guests; 40 (maximum Hatanaka gionhatanaka.jp; drink; and food with

instant escapes CALM KYOTO CALM

YOUR MOVIE MOVIE YOUR MOMENT Recognise thoseRecognise in stones stepping the gardens of Scarlett Heian? Johansson hopped across them in Lost in Translation I

That’s a wrap: kimono-clad woman in a Kyoto alleyway; below, Shrine; Heian at Buddha statue temple Ryoan-ji the

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(take the JR bus o , shining with gold gold with shining , Imperial Palace Imperial 3 , set in the foothills 5 Peaceful Dragon, , the Peaceful 4 See & d l Reassuringly flat, is Kyoto pedalling its broad gravel paths paths gravel broad its pedalling : its : green roofs and red columns are 2 map), past plum trees and cherry blossom Jingu Heian shrine Shinto the via Return leaf (take the Karasuma subway line to Kitaoji, £1.80 from Station; Kyoto then a 10-minute taxi, £11). Another spectacle Ryoan-ji is a beautiful beacon as you pedal past. avoidl To shrine fatigue, pick wisely. the Kinkaku-ji, is iconic most The Golden Temple CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO of the Higashiyama mountains (20 minutes’ walk from Keage Station on the Tozai line, £1.80).Once a 13th- century emperor’s hideaway, it’s now HQ of the Rinzai Buddhist sect. l Temple supremacy — at least for fun factor — belongs surely to Kiyomizu-dera, up a steep cobbled street (kiyomizudera.or.jp; £2.70; flecked and mystical from Station; Kyoto £1.60; 30min). Also Nanzen-ji see with its grey-sand rockgarden, moss- Built without using a single nail, it’s Buddhist 8th-century imposing an complex, reconstructed in 1633.The its hall, wooden pillared platformmain provides hillside, the over jutting out citysensational views ✂ a cinch tocycle round. Book a bike (from £7 a day; kctp.net) from the terminal by trainKyoto station, and glide north beside Lake Biwa Canal, 20km long and mirror-still. Legs stretched, you might loopthe to

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instant escapes 138 The old imperial capital serves up ancient wonders with Japan-ease

For 1,000 years, until forced to move to in 1868, the Tokyo emperors to of move 1,000 For to years, until forced a powerfully enchanting Its city. and in temples Kyoto Japan created teahouses remain So come today. to relax in creaky timber inns, laze over artful idle in food, where and alleys still geishas be transfixed potter, by the cherry which blossom, will soon usher in spring. By Minty Clinch Calm Calm ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I CALM KYOTO

Eat bars & cafes l Oodles of noodles l Tip-top cocktails HONKE-OWARIYA (Dishes about £8) bar rOCKING CHAIR Because: This slurpy soba-noodle joint Because: Bartender Kenji makes has centuries of pedigree (the original knockout Martinis, among more lurid branch started out selling confectionery concoctions. Travel’s tip: It’s hidden in a in 1465). Travel’s tip: Soba rice cakes backstreet — get your hotel to write its and soba-boru fudge, sold on site, are name in Japanese so drivers or passers- delicious and easy to pack, making by can steer you. 434-2 Tachibana-cho, great gifts. 624 Teiammaenocho, Shimogyo-ku; bar-rockingchair.jp; 17 . Shimogyo-ku; honke-owariya.co.jp; 12 . l Singalong hotspot l Italian indulgence a REALLY barcode LATE ONE? IL PAPPALARDO (Mains about £15) As well as Because: Cheap drinks set the tone Because: After maxing out on noodles karaoke, you can for this casual karaoke bar near Shijo and sushi, a pizza craving will hit at come and throw station. A hit among locals and tourists. shapes here until some stage. Bright and cheery, this the early hours Travel’s tip: Karaoke-shy? This is the place sidesteps minimalism, down to place to try. The selection machine the Chianti bottles on tables. Travel’s even speaks English. 366 Kamiyacho tip: A beacon for international guests, Nishikiyamachidori Shijoagaru, it’s always busy. This is one you do Nakagyo-ku; bit.ly/barcodekyoto; 18 . need to book ahead. 451-1 Myohoin Maekawacho, Higashiyama-ku; 00 81 l Elevenses into lunch 75 533 3330, ilpappalardo.com; 13 . efish Because: Nobody does coffee with l Better batter quite the attention of the Japanese, and Tempura ENDO YAOSAKO this spot is a fine pared-down space for (Three-course lunch about £30) a caffeine hit as you wander canalside. Because: Kyoto tempura is hailed as Travel’s tip: Come for lunch — the clam the nation’s best, and everything here chowder is top. 798-1 Nishihashizume- gets the feather-light frying treatment, cho, Gojo-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 19 . from prawns to exotic mushrooms. Travel’s tip: Sit by the sunken fireplace in the Ozashiki Bar for a clear view of Stay l Live like a local l Big-city oasis Get me there the chefs at work. 566 Komatsu-cho, ASK THE l Self-catering steal HIGASHIYAMA RYU (Three-bedroom SPA HYATT REGENCY KYOTO (Doubles GO INDEPENDENT GEEK? Higashiyama-ku; 00 81 75 551 1488, LOCAL RINN GION KENNINJI (Doubles townhouse from £181, self-catering) You’ll love the from £260, B&B) You can’t fly to Kyoto direct from the UK, gion-endo.com; 14 . Tomo Shinya, the Four from £70, room-only) Because: You can live like a local in this OTT one here: Because: It’s a busy-city/tranquil- but ANA flies Heathrow-Tokyo from Seasons’ chief concierge, Because: It’s an English-speaking charming home with a balcony, rock among the wacky suburb combo. And it looks great, from £780 return. The bullet train from Tokyo is expert at helping first- treatments is l Banquet bonanza timers avoid mistakes guesthouse on the fringe of Gion (geisha garden and fully equipped kitchen. It is moxibustion: its gold lobby to its kimono-clad to Kyoto (via Mount Fuji) takes two hours HAMACHO (Nine-course menu £45) ORDER central — staff here will point you to modern (and air-conditioned), yet feels headboards. Recover in room 1506, one and 20 minutes. Or ANA connects to THESE… burning dried Because: A parade of dishes is the Highlights are the places where you can be dressed as wonderfully yesteryear, with silk mugwort applied of three fifth-floor balcony suites, with (15 minutes from Kyoto) via Tokyo, essence of Kyoto dining, delivered in fish balls in green It is tempting to take tours one for photos). There are microwaves hangings, wooden screens and to key body points a touchy-feely cypress-wood bathtub. from £792 return. From April 2019, BA ornate, multi-compartment boxes. plum soup, conger by car or bus — it’s quickest, and washing machines. Travel’s tip: Pack ornamental ceramics. Travel’s tip: Take Travel’s tip: The National Museum will fly nonstop from Heathrow to Osaka. eel and scallops Travel’s tip: Bag a booth opposite the in jelly but not the ideal way to see the city. a picnic and stroll to Maruyama Park in advantage of one of the house’s free across the road costs £3.60 to enter slicing counter to admire chef Edji’s There is also a subway, but it only has cherry-blossom season. 69-1 Hakata- bikes for a day. 21-7 Ichinohashinomoto- and has lovely verdant grounds. 644-2 GO PACKAGED blade acrobatics. 488 Ebisucho, two lines and, of course, you will have cho, Higashiyama-ku; rinn-kyomachi. cho, Higashiyama-ku; booking.com; 23. Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama- Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent. Nakagyo-ku; 00 81 75 257 4949, nothing to photograph! I tell people to com/location/rinn-gion-kenninji; 21 . ku; kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; 25. co.uk) features Kyoto on a 12-night trip hamachodesu.com; 15 . walk to see lovely glimpses of Kyoto. l Traditional Japanese inn taking in Mount Fuji and Hiroshima; from Late at night, unlike Tokyo, it becomes l Fantastic views MAIDENHEAD CARTOGRAPHIC : Gion YOSHIIMA (Doubles from l Historic sanctuary £4,785pp, including flights, touring and l Sushi by the season tranquil and you can walk into alleys KYOTO TOWER HOTEL (Doubles MAP £254, half-board) FOUR SEASONS KYOTO (Doubles internal trains. Or try Inside Japan Tours menu SUSHI IWA (Lunch menus about £65) warning full of local restaurants and bars. from £105, B&B) Because: At this family-run ryokan in from £506, B&B) (insidejapantours.com). Because: Glistening scallops, wild eel, Picky eater? Cycling is good, too, especially in the Because: It’s right opposite the railway Gion, built in 1747, you don your kimono Because: It’s luxury in an outstanding East meets rest: Beware the ruby fatty tuna… This place is fastidious manic cherry-blossom season. To beat station, and you can ride up to the radio for meals at low tables and sleep clockwise from historical setting, Shakusuien: an GET AROUND multi-course about its fish and the results are the biggest crowds, ride along the tower on the roof — the tallest structure soundly on futons rolled out on your top left, suite at the ikeniwa (pond garden) with two islands The best way to travel overland is with omakase (chef’s Hyatt Regency; delicious. Travel’s tip: The late Apple choice). It delivers Kamo river, past pink sakura trees in in the city — for giddy views from the tatami mat. Rooms have en-suite created 800 years ago for the samurai a Japan Rail Pass: £195, for unlimited Steve Jobs’s their faves, not chief Steve Jobs said this was the best bloom. The flowers are beautiful after . Travel’s tip: Guests bathrooms. Windows overlook 150- favourite, Sushi Iwa; Lord Komatsu. Atmospherically, one travel on Japan Railway trains, buses necessarily yours sushi he’d ever eaten, and you can still dark: walk Shirakawa Street 20 — you pay reduced rates at the Yuu onsen year-old lime trees in the courtyard the Four Seasons is of them hosts a Champagne and saké and ferries. See japanrailpass.net. book his (10-seat memorial) table. may have the yozakura (illuminated (public baths) on floor B3F of the Kyoto garden. Travel’s tip: Don’t overeat by set in lovely gardens; hour at dusk. Travel’s tip: Breakfast is Ainomachi-Nishiminamikado blossom viewing) almost to yourself! Tower Building. 721-1 Higashishiokoji day — dinners here are multi-course rooftop bar at the a special treat if you take it on the sun FURTHER INFORMATION Kyoto Tower Hotel; Shimojuzuya Shimogyo-ku; Karasumadori, Shimogyo-ku; and filling. 229 Shinmonzen, Gion; Nishiki Market terrace. 445-3 Myohoin Maekawa-cho, Japanese National Tourist Office

00 81 75 371 9303, sushiiwa.jp; 16 . keihanhotels-resorts.co.jp; 22. HARDING ROBERT IMAGES, AWL ALAMY, PHOTOGRAPHS: yoshi-ima.co.jp; 24. knife shop Higashiyama-ku; fourseasons.com; 26. (JNTO): seejapan.co.uk.

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