Calm Kyoto Calm
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✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I CALM KYOTO SEE & DO l A must-do preliminary to Kyoto’s l Reassuringly flat, Kyoto is celebrated cuisine is a saunter through a cinch to cycle round. Book a bike (from Nishiki Market 7 , a vast trading camp £7 a day; kctp.net) from the terminal by rammed with pickles, confectionery, Kyoto train station, and glide north fish — perhaps whale meat — and less beside Lake Biwa Canal, 20km long identifiable seafoody specimens (often and mirror-still. Legs stretched, you still writhing). Don’t miss the oyster might loop to the Imperial Palace ( 1 on and saké bar by the exit: giant succulent map), pedalling its broad gravel paths bivalves cost £3 each. The highlight, past plum trees and cherry blossom. though, is the knife shop founded by an YOUR MOVIE Return via the Shinto shrine Heian Jingu MOMENT imperial master swordsmith in 1560. 2 : its green roofs and red columns are Recognise those a beautiful beacon as you pedal past. stepping stones in l Cherry blossom is one of the most the gardens of spellbinding attractions in Japan. It’s Heian? Scarlett l To avoid shrine fatigue, pick wisely. Johansson already busting out this month in The most iconic is Kinkaku-ji, the hopped across subtropical Okinawa, and while its Golden Temple 3 , shining with gold them in Lost in waves won’t reach Kyoto before late Translation leaf (take the Karasuma subway line to March, it is such a crowd-puller that you Kitaoji, £1.80 from Kyoto Station; then a should book now. Stick these hotspots 10-minute taxi, £11). Another spectacle on your Google Map: Maruyama Park 8 is Ryoan-ji 4 , the Peaceful Dragon, and Imperial Palace Park 9 , where with its grey-sand rock garden, moss- rashes of blooms flutter calmly, lighting flecked and mystical (take the JR bus the scene palely, the way snow does. from Kyoto Station; £1.60; 30min). Also see Nanzen-ji 5 , set in the foothills l Tangerine lanterns, pots of uplit of the Higashiyama mountains (20 foliage, menus on darkwood stands: minutes’ walk from Keage Station on pretty Pontocho 10 , an alley parallel to the Tozai line, £1.80). Once a 13th- the Kamo river, comes alive at night. The century emperor’s hideaway, it’s now 500-year-old flagstones flow with HQ of the Rinzai Buddhist sect. carousers, heading past (or into) the ancient wooden townhouses, known l Temple supremacy — at least for as machiya, which welcome guests fun factor — belongs surely to (usually at a price). Look for garish Kiyomizu-dera, up a steep cobbled banners and lanterns. From May to street (kiyomizudera.or.jp; £2.70; 6 ). September try kawayuka — ‘dining on Built without using a single nail, it’s That’s a wrap: a terrace overlooking a flowing river’. an imposing 8th-century Buddhist kimono-clad instant complex, reconstructed in 1633. The woman in a Kyoto l Geisha-spotting? Beware: many main pillared hall, its wooden platform alleyway; below, are tourists with makeovers. Look for Heian Shrine; escapes jutting out over the hillside, provides Buddha statue at the real deal around 6pm, which is sensational city views. the Ryoan-ji temple clocking-on time for the business banquets and parties that underpin the 21st-century geisha’s workload. Typically, geishas charge £800 for a two-hour dinner. Instead, try song, dance and talk with apprentice geishas (maikos) at tables for four at Gion Calm Kyoto Hatanaka (maximum 40 guests; £127pp The old imperial capital serves up ancient wonders with Japan-ease with food and drink; gionhatanaka.jp; 11 ). l With English sat nav, self-driving For 1,000 years, until forced to move to Tokyo in 1868, the emperors of in Japan is easy (and on the left). Try Japan created in Kyoto a powerfully enchanting city. Its temples and a loop into the rural past among thatched farms in the valleys around teahouses remain today. So come to relax in creaky timber inns, laze over the Miyama region, 50km north of artful food, idle in alleys where geishas still potter, and be transfixed by Kyoto. You’re welcomed for a night the cherry blossom, which will soon usher in spring. By Minty Clinch in a ryokan (futon bed, dinner), and can pootle back on the old imperial highway along Lake Biwa’s eastern shore (£390 for two, with car and ryokan; japan-experience.com). > 138 SUNDay TIMES TRAVEL JANUARY 2019 JANUARY 2019 SUNDay TIMES TRAVEL 139 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I CALM KYOTO Eat baRS & caFES l Oodles of noodles l Tip-top cocktails HONKE-OWARIYA (Dishes about £8) bar ROCKING CHAIR Because: This slurpy soba-noodle joint Because: Bartender Kenji makes has centuries of pedigree (the original knockout Martinis, among more lurid branch started out selling confectionery concoctions. Travel’s tip: It’s hidden in a in 1465). Travel’s tip: Soba rice cakes backstreet — get your hotel to write its and soba-boru fudge, sold on site, are name in Japanese so drivers or passers- delicious and easy to pack, making by can steer you. 434-2 Tachibana-cho, great gifts. 624 Teiammaenocho, Shimogyo-ku; bar-rockingchair.jp; 17 . Shimogyo-ku; honke-owariya.co.jp; 12 . l Singalong hotspot l Italian indulgence A REALLY barcode LATE ONE? IL PAPPALARDO (Mains about £15) As well as Because: Cheap drinks set the tone Because: After maxing out on noodles karaoke, you can for this casual karaoke bar near Shijo and sushi, a pizza craving will hit at come and throw station. A hit among locals and tourists. shapes here until some stage. Bright and cheery, this the early hours Travel’s tip: Karaoke-shy? This is the place sidesteps minimalism, down to place to try. The selection machine the Chianti bottles on tables. Travel’s even speaks English. 366 Kamiyacho tip: A beacon for international guests, Nishikiyamachidori Shijoagaru, it’s always busy. This is one you do Nakagyo-ku; bit.ly/barcodekyoto; 18 . need to book ahead. 451-1 Myohoin Maekawacho, Higashiyama-ku; 00 81 l Elevenses into lunch 75 533 3330, ilpappalardo.com; 13 . efish Because: Nobody does coffee with l Better batter quite the attention of the Japanese, and TempUra ENDO YAOSAKO this spot is a fine pared-down space for (Three-course lunch about £30) a caffeine hit as you wander canalside. Because: Kyoto tempura is hailed as Travel’s tip: Come for lunch — the clam the nation’s best, and everything here chowder is top. 798-1 Nishihashizume- gets the feather-light frying treatment, cho, Gojo-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 19 . from prawns to exotic mushrooms. Travel’s tip: Sit by the sunken fireplace in the Ozashiki Bar for a clear view of Stay l Live like a local l Big-city oasis GET ME thERE the chefs at work. 566 Komatsu-cho, ASK THE l Self-catering steal HIGASHIYAMA RYU (Three-bedroom SPA HYATT REGENCY KYOTO (Doubles GO INDEPENDENT GEEK? Higashiyama-ku; 00 81 75 551 1488, LOCAL RINN GION KENNINJI (Doubles townhouse from £181, self-catering) You’ll love the from £260, B&B) You can’t fly to Kyoto direct from the UK, gion-endo.com; 14 . Tomo Shinya, the Four from £70, room-only) Because: You can live like a local in this OTT one here: Because: It’s a busy-city/tranquil- but ANA flies Heathrow-Tokyo from Seasons’ chief concierge, Because: It’s an English-speaking charming home with a balcony, rock among the wacky suburb combo. And it looks great, from £780 return. The bullet train from Tokyo is expert at helping first- treatments is l Banquet bonanza timers avoid mistakes guesthouse on the fringe of Gion (geisha garden and fully equipped kitchen. It is moxibustion: its gold lobby to its kimono-clad to Kyoto (via Mount Fuji) takes two hours HAMACHO (Nine-course menu £45) ORDER central — staff here will point you to modern (and air-conditioned), yet feels headboards. Recover in room 1506, one and 20 minutes. Or ANA connects to THESE… burning dried Because: A parade of dishes is the Highlights are the places where you can be dressed as wonderfully yesteryear, with silk mugwort applied of three fifth-floor balcony suites, with Osaka (15 minutes from Kyoto) via Tokyo, essence of Kyoto dining, delivered in fish balls in green It is tempting to take tours one for photos). There are microwaves hangings, wooden screens and to key body points a touchy-feely cypress-wood bathtub. from £792 return. From April 2019, BA ornate, multi-compartment boxes. plum soup, conger by car or bus — it’s quickest, and washing machines. Travel’s tip: Pack ornamental ceramics. Travel’s tip: Take Travel’s tip: The National Museum will fly nonstop from Heathrow to Osaka. eel and scallops Travel’s tip: Bag a booth opposite the in jelly but not the ideal way to see the city. a picnic and stroll to Maruyama Park in advantage of one of the house’s free across the road costs £3.60 to enter slicing counter to admire chef Edji’s There is also a subway, but it only has cherry-blossom season. 69-1 Hakata- bikes for a day. 21-7 Ichinohashinomoto- and has lovely verdant grounds. 644-2 GO PACKAGED blade acrobatics. 488 Ebisucho, two lines and, of course, you will have cho, Higashiyama-ku; rinn-kyomachi. cho, Higashiyama-ku; booking.com; 23. Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama- Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent. Nakagyo-ku; 00 81 75 257 4949, nothing to photograph! I tell people to com/location/rinn-gion-kenninji; 21 . ku; kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; 25.