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The Life and Work of Ann Lowe: Rediscovering “Society’S Best Kept Secret”

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THE LIFE AND WORK OF ANN LOWE: REDISCOVERING “SOCIETY’S BEST KEPT SECRET” Margaret E. Powell Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Arts in the History of Decorative Arts Masters Program in the History of Decorative Arts The Smithsonian Associates and The Corcoran College of Art + Design 2012 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! "2012 Margaret Eugenia Powell All Rights Reserved ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The successful completion of a project of this nature has been possible because of the generous assistance of a great number of people. So many people responded to my letters, e-mails and phone calls with great generosity and interest. They kept my spirits high when I was getting discouraged. At times, their support has been overwhelming. This project would not be possible without the time they spent opening their homes to me, sending me garments and photographs, donating their professional time, digging through their institution’s collections, archival information and their own memories and possessions to share their experiences about Ann Lowe. Thank you for helping to record Ann Lowe’s history. This project would not be possible without your participation. Amsterdam, Holland: Elizabeth Mance De Jonge Colorado: Pickett Huffines Connecticut: Ann Copeland Delaware: Delaware Historical Society: Jennifer Potts, Chief Curator Florida: Members of the Lee family: Nell Lee Greening, Joan Apthorp, Elinor Boushall and Elizabeth Lee Barron Ye Mystic Krewe of Gasparilla: Dr. William Carson, Historian The Henry B. Plant Museum: Cynthia Gandee, Executive Director Susan Carter, Curator/Registrar, Sally Shifke, Museum Relations University of Florida: Colleen Seale, Coordinator, Reference Services, Smathers Library Maryland: Brian J. Searby Photography: Brian J Searby Massachusetts: American Textile Museum: Karen J. Herbaugh, Curator John F. Kennedy Museum: Jim Wagner, exhibit specialist, Kathryn Dodge Nebraska: Connie Cowdery O’Neil Durham Museum, Omaha: Larrisa Kreyer, Registrar i New York: Fashion Institute of Technology: Colleen Hill, Curator Saks Fifth Avenue: Leland Kass, Archivist Metropolitan Museum of Art: Elizabeth Bryan, Associate Research Curator, Costume Institute National Archives at New York City: Elizabeth Pope Talence, France: Duchess Joan de Mouchy Washington, DC: Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens: Liana Parades, Chief Curator Howard Kurtz, Textile Curator, Kate Markert, Director The Smithsonian Associates, History of Decorative Arts: Cynthia Williams, Director, Andrea Nelson, Ph.D., Dorothea Dietrich, Ph.D., Mary Doering, Peggy Newman The Container Store: Erin Lander, Ann Herrington, Mahaba Alziwir, Kip Rousell, Elizabeth Hall, Penny Weaver My family and friends: Thank you for your encouraging words of support (and laughter!) during this last year. William and Sarah Powell Charlene Fossum, Carl Fossum, Caleb and Peter Fossum Carolyn and Doug Walkling Sarah Pebworth, Delia Crocker, Naomi Hathaway, Brandi Aubrey, Grace McNicholas, Katie Johnson, Marie Johnson, Nardi Hobler, Kathleen White Koherson, Lynne Davis and Jodi O’Grady A special note of thanks to: The Smithsonian Associates History of Decorative Arts Program Faculty for the award of a travel research grant. This grant allowed me to conduct research in Tampa, Florida. Liana Parades, Chief Curator at Hillwood Estate Museum and Garden for suggesting that I look into Ann Lowe’s life and work. Howard Kurtz, Textile Curator at Hillwood for his generous and knowledgeable assistance and access to Mrs. Post’s gown. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS !"#$%&'()*(+($,-.///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.0! ,!1'(.%2."%$,($,-.////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.000! '3-,.%2.3''4-,5!,3%$-.//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.06! 3$,5%)4",3%$.//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.60! "789:;<.=>.-?@:7;<A.-:BC;.//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.=! "789:;<.D>.!AA.'?E;.?F.$;E.G?<H."0:B.//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.DI! "789:;<.J>.K!.+8L?<.28M70?A.);M0NA;<O./////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.PQ! "789:;<.P>.,7;."C0;A:.(R9;<0;AS;.////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.TJ! "%$"'4-3%$.///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.UT! !VV($)3W.!.////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.IX! $%,(-.////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.IY! 131'3%*5!VZG.///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////.=XI! iii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 1. a) Wedding photo of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and John F. Kennedy b) Wedding Gown replica by Isabella de Borchgrave (artist’s photo) 2. Ann Lowe, pictured in her studio (Ebony, 1966) 3. Mrs. Elizabeth Kirkman O’Neal, first lady of Alabama and early client of Lowe’s mother and grandmother, 1911 4. Gasparilla Court Gown, 1926 Henry B. Plant Museum 5. Ak-Sar Ben Queen, Connie Cowdery O’Neil, 1961 (courtesy of Connie Cowdery O’Neil) 6. Debutante gown with silk carnations, Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute 7. Lowe in her studio working on a “second wedding” dress with applied silk flowers (Ebony, 1966) 8. Mrs. Josephine Edwards Lee in an undated portrait (courtesy of Joan Apthorp) 9. The Lee family home, Lake Thonotosassa, Florida (courtesy of Joan Apthorp) 10. Blue Broadcloth Traveling Suits, Rosemary and Louise Lee, 1917 (courtesy of Joan Apthorp) 11. The Lee twins, Rosemary and Louise, undated photo in matching Swiss themed costumes which may have been created by Lowe (courtesy of Joan Apthorp) 12. Grace Lee in a Lowe dress, c. 1918 (courtesy of Elinor Lee Boushall) 13. Doll dress sewn by Lowe for the youngest Lowe daughter, Nell, c. 1917 (courtesy Elinor Lee Boushall) 14. A) Organdy dress, c. 1925 (photo: Brian Searby) B) Organdy dress sleeve, c. 1925 (photo: Brian Searby) C) Organdy dress, c. 1925 (photo: Brian Searby) D) Organdy dress, c. 1925 Sleeve gathers (photo: Brian Searby E) Organdy dress, c. 1925 Sleeve horsehair (photo: Brian Searby F) Organdy dress, c. 1925 Bodice (photo: Brian Searby) G) Organdy dress, c. 1925 Bodice Back (photo: Brian Searby) 15. Butterick Deleanator illustration, showing the use of black lace and cream fabric (Butterick Deleanator, 1900) 16. Local dressmaker advertisement, 1928 (Tampa Tribune) 17. Nell Lee, 1926 the year of her Gasparilla queen reign and wedding (Tampa Tribune) 18. Nell Lee in her wedding gown, 1926 (courtesy of Elinor Boushall) 19. 1924 Gasparilla Court (Berger Brothers) 20. A) 1924 Gasparilla Court (Berger Brothers) B) Sarah Keller, Queen of 1924 Gasparilla Court (Berger Brothers) 21. 1925 Gasparilla Court, (Berger Brothers) 22. 1927 Gasparilla Court, (Berger Brothers) 23. 1928 Gasparilla Court, (Berger Brothers) 24. Beaded Silk Dress Fragment, 1924 25. Gasparilla Court Gown, Bodice, 1926 26. Trimingham gown (Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute) iv 27. Bouvier debut gowns, Jacqueline and Lee Bouvier, 1947 portrait by Cecil National Portrait Gallery, London 28. Olivia de Havilland, Academy Awards, 1947 29. Nina Auchincloss in a Lowe gown, note that Lowe is credited (Vogue 1955) 30. Gray silk gown, Hillwood Estate, Museum and Garden (courtesy of Hillwood Estate, Museum and Garden) 31. Marjorie Merriweather Post, portrait, Douglas Chandor, 1952 (courtesy of Hillwood Estate Museum and Garden) 32. a) Post gown, Waffle Weave fabric b) Post Gown, Close up of scroll detail c) Post Gown, Interior view of scroll detail d) Post Gown, Ruched bodice 33. Post Gown, Portrait neckline 34. Post Gown, Bodice Interior 35. Post Gown, Raw edges 36. Post Gown, Boning 37. Post Gown, Waist tape 38. Copeland Wedding Gown, Bodice Interior 39. Jewel Court Gown, Bodice 40. Jewel Court Gown, 1957 41. Saks 5th Avenue Adam Room Advertisement (Alabama Heritage) 42. Ak-Sar-Ben Countess Gowns (Courtesy of Durham Museum, Omaha, Nebraska) 43. Ak-Sar-Ben Queen Gown (Courtesy of Connie Cowdery O’Neil) 44. Pickett Huffines Debutante Gown (Ebony, 1966) 45. Ak-Sar-Ben Princess gowns (Evening World Herald, Omaha, Nebraska) 46. Ak-Sar-Ben Countess gowns (Evening World Herald, Omaha Nebraska) 47. Copeland Wedding Gown 48. Copeland Wedding Gown (courtesy of Ann Copeland) 49. Justina Seeburg (Vanity Fair, 1967) 50. The Lee sisters (Tampa Tribune) 51. Tampa Junior League Gala Gown (Tampa Daily Times) 52. Illustration of Ann Lowe (Tampa Tribune) 53. Keller dress, 1924 54. Keller dress, Floral beaded design 55. Keller dress, Bugle Bead border 56. Keller dress, Silk condition 57. Gasparilla Court 1926 Composite 58. Broaddus Dress, 1926, Jeweled Medallion 59. Broaddus Dress, Seed beadwork 60. Broaddus Dress, Bead loss 61. Jewel Court bodice neckline, 1957 62. Jewel Court skirt beadwork 63. Jewel Court Tulle Pussywillows 64. Jewel Court Replacement of beading 65. Jewel Court, Deterioration at hemline 66. Jewel Court, Deterioration at cap sleeve v INTRODUCTION When Catherine
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