Lady of Spain

CHANEL’S MOSCOW PLAN/2 THE IMMIGRATION BATTLE/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • April 11, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

Lady of Spain

NEW YORK — A modern-day senorita loves her lace. And come nightfall, slender, airy blouses are the perfect foil for long, voluminous skirts. Here, Bytinaxx’s cotton lace shirt and Bill Blass’ embroidered cotton faille skirt. Nine West scarf worn as a belt; Erickson Beamon earrings. Photographed at La Esquina. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Crossed by a Star? Tarrant Sues Jessica For $100M No-Show By Vicki M. Young

D BY DAVID YASSKY AND BOBBI QUEEN YASSKY DAVID D BY NEW YORK — Jessica Simpson appears to have another breakup in the works. Over what was once touted by its owner as a celebrity fashion label with the potential to hit $1 billion to $2 Y MIZU KATSUYUKI; STYLE Y MIZU KATSUYUKI; billion, there’s now a legal war between a major licensee and Simpson. Tarrant Apparel Group has sued Simpson and master license owner Vincent Camuto for $100 million over Simpson’s alleged failure to promote her lines. Tarrant filed the lawsuit alleging

YE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MAKEUP B YE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; several breach of contract claims against Camuto and one against Simpson in New York State Supreme See Tarrant, Page 12 EL: CLAUDIA/WOMEN; HAIR BY DAVID MEDEL DAVID EL: CLAUDIA/WOMEN; HAIR BY PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MOD KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 WWD.COM Chanel to Open First Shop in Russia famous friendships with exiled Russian intel- WWDTUESDAY By Miles Socha Ready-to-Wear/Textiles ligentsia and her romantic ties to Grand Duke PARIS — After recently doing an encore cou- Dimitri Pavlovitch, the brand’s presence there ture showing in Hong Kong, Chanel soon will is mostly in its beauty products. Fragrances and FASHION head to another luxury hotbed — Moscow — for cosmetics are sold in 250 points of sale in 52 cit- Designers are channeling the fl are of the fl amenco for fall, with second- a major splash. ies across the country, the spokeswoman said. 6 skin matador pants, festive skirts and lots of lace. The French fashion house plans to open its At the new boutique, designed by architect fi rst freestanding boutique in Russia this sum- Peter Marino, Chanel’s fi ne jewelry will be GENERAL mer, a 3,200-square-foot unit at 14 Stolechnikov available for the fi rst time on the Russian mar- Tarrant Apparel Group has fi led a $100 million lawsuit against Jessica Pereoulok in central Moscow. While the exact ket, although watches are already sold in a se- Simpson’s alleged failure to partake in celebrity promotions for her lines. date for a soft opening is still being discussed, lect number of Moscow shops. 1 Chanel is planning a major opening event this About one-third of the street-level shop will Bergdorf’s senior vice president of marketing and advertising, Michael fall, a house spokeswoman said. be a showcase for fi ne jewelry and watches; the 2 Crotty, is leaving to become ceo of Fotolog, a photo blogging service. Although Chanel has long had extensive ties balance will be devoted to ready-to-wear and The red-hot debate on immigration isn’t new to U.S. apparel manufactur- to Russia, dating to founder Gabrielle Chanel’s accessories, Chanel said. 3 ing, which has dealt with the issue of undocumented workers for years. EYE: When it comes to Washington action heroes, Rima Al-Sabah of 4 Kuwait is the Xena Warrior Princess of the capital’s social scene. Garfi eldMarks, formerly called GM Design Group, has been sold with its Michael Crotty Exits Bergdorf Goodman 8 trademarks to Harvé Benard Ltd. by GMAC Commercial Finance. RTW: Oleg Cassini’s widow, Marianne Nestor-Cassini, succeeded him By David Moin Michael and Bergdorf ’s are divisions of 9 as president of his fi rm and wants to give the brand more global appeal. the Neiman Marcus Group. Crotty TEXTILES: Chinese textile and apparel manufacturers exhibiting at Inter- NEW YORK — Bergdorf Good- Previously, Crotty worked at man’s senior vice president Time Warner’s Digital Marketing 10 textile Beijing looked to capture more U.S. and European business. of marketing and advertising, Group, Sony Online Ventures, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 Michael Crotty, is leaving the CDNOW.com, and myplay.com. luxury retailer to become chief At Fotolog, Crotty will succeed To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. executive offi cer of Fotolog, a the fi rm’s co-founder and current [email protected], using the individual’s name. photo blogging service. ceo, Adam Seifer, who will be- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Crotty oversaw the Bergdorf come chief product offi cer, a new RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Goodman Magazine, a quarterly, position for developing Fotolog VOLUME 191, NO. 76. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- and Bergdorf ’s online operation. products and services. Seifer has ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, When he joined the store in June been ceo since Fotolog’s launch Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers 2004, Bergdorf ’s Web site was al- in 2002 and has kept a photo blog Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; ready e-mailing customers about of his every meal since 2003 at David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior trunk shows, parties, designer www.fotolog.com/cypher. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance appearances, book signings and “Largely through word of Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. other events at the store, but he Crotty is expected to stay with mouth alone, Fotolog has built 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable was instrumental in advancing Bergdorf ’s for a few more weeks. a base of three million passion- Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS the site to become transactional Before joining Bergdorf ’s, ate and enthusiastic members,’’ CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR later that year. Crotty had been vice president Crotty said in a statement. “With DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four “I am very sorry to see Michael of marketing and advertising at digital cameras now common- weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. leave Bergdorf Goodman,’’ said Neiman Marcus Direct, starting place and blogging going main- Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Bergdorf ’s Jim Gold, president in 2000, and was a key player in stream, it’s clear that Fotolog’s First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and ceo, who added that a search building Neiman’s Web site. It is growth opportunities are huge.” and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions has begun for Crotty’s replace- now considered the world’s largest The company has reported and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make ment. “He has made an important luxury online site, with about $300 more than one billion page views our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would contribution to our company.” million in 2005 sales. Neiman’s per month. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Wet Seal’s White Named Chief Operating Offi cer OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED LOS ANGELES — The Wet Seal sequently promoted to executive Mervyns and vice president of Inc. said on Monday that Gary vice president of the company. West Coast stores for Target. White has been promoted to chief He comes to his new position White will be responsible for operating offi cer. with more than 30 years of ex- all fi eld operations in both the In Brief White joined the junior and perience in the retail industry. Arden B. and Wet Seal divisions, contemporary retailer in July White was chief executive offi cer including construction and de- ● ZALE INQUIRY: The Securities and Exchange Commission 2004 as senior vice president at Savers Inc. and at Gymboree, velopment, purchasing and real has started an investigation into certain accounting practices of of sales and operations for the and was executive vice presi- estate. Zale Corp., the specialty jewelry retailer announced in a state- Wet Seal division and was sub- dent of stores and operations for Neither White nor Joel ment Monday. The probe is looking at accounting for extended Waller, ceo of The Wet Seal, re- service agreements, leases and accrued payroll. The firm said turned phone calls seeking com- subpoenas have sought materials related to accounting as well ment. In a prepared statement, as executive compensation and severance, earnings guidance, Waller said, “Gary has been a stock trading and the timing of certain vendor payments. Zale helsea Button major contributor to the recent said in the statement that its accounting is in compliance with C International, Inc. business success at Wet Seal, generally accepted accounting principles. The company said it USA Tel: (908)259-1400 and as chief operating offi cer, is cooperating with the SEC investigation. Fax: (908)259-1519 he will play a major role in the Email: [email protected] successful implementation of ● LIMITED PICKS BERSANI: Limited Brands Inc. has promoted Chelsea Button (Far East) Co. our store growth strategy in fi s- Jamie Bersani, a 20-year Limited Brands real estate executive, Hong Kong cal 2006 and beyond.” to head its retail real estate team. As executive vice president, Tel: (852)2 402-8889 The company has had con- retail real estate, Bersani is responsible for execution of all Fax: (852)2 402-8323 sistent fi nancial increases since retail real estate transactions, reporting to Mark Giresi, execu- Email: [email protected] the third quarter of fi scal 2005, tive vice president, retail operations. Bersani joined Limited following a $47.3 million slide in Brands in 1986 as a real estate director and in 1995 was named Buttons, Trims & Accessories revenue that began in 2002. vice president, real estate. In 2000, Bersani was appointed se- Last week, the fi rm reported nior vice president, retail real estate. “We are very excited to same-store sales rose 16.2 per- be able to have the benefi t of [Bersani’s] relationships within cent for the five-week period the enterprise and across the nation to support our growth ended April 1, compared with a strategy,” Giresi said in a statement Monday. gain of 36.3 percent for the same period a year ago. Net sales for ● FASHION ON PASSIONS: Anyone who works in fashion the fi ve-week period ended April knows it can be a real soap opera, but now the tables are turn- 1 were $47.3 million, compared ing. NBC Daytime is launching Crane Couture, its first sports- THE TIGER COMPANIES with of $41 million for the same wear collection and one inspired by Emily Harper’s Fancy period last year, a rise of 15.6 Crane character on “Passions.” In real life, it was head of ward- Tiger Button Co Inc - New York percent. robe for “Passions” Diana Eden — not Harper — who worked Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong The Wet Seal is based in Foot- with Delivery Agent, an agency that creates and manages Web Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. hill Ranch, Calif., and operates sites that sell products on TV and other entertainment venues, Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands 308 Wet Seal stores and 92 Arden to develop the collection. At different times during the soap, Tiger Trimming Inc - New York B. stores in 46 states, Washington, “snipes” will run along the bottom of the screen, directing view- Tel:(212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] D.C., and Puerto Rico. ers who like Fancy’s clothes to check out cranecouture.com. — Emili Vesilind WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 3 WWD.COM Immigration Reform Has Industry on Edge

By Evan Clark and Kristi Ellis Immigration rights protesters march in WASHINGTON — Domestic apparel manufacturing and re- Washington. tailing is in the eye of the storm over immigration policy that is being played out on Capitol Hill and across the U.S. Unionized industry workers were among the hundreds of thousands who marched on Monday in more than 100 cities and towns — from New York to Los Angeles and places like Tyler, Tex., and Garden City, Kan. — urging U.S. citizenship for an estimated 11 million to 12 million illegal immigrants. The number of undocumented workers in the industry is diffi cult to assess because neither watchdog organiza- tions that advocate for them nor many state governments, including California’s, have specifi c employment statistics. However, it is clear that an overhaul in U.S. immigration law being considered by Congress could make sweeping changes in the way apparel manufacturers and retailers deal with employees who are in this country illegally. The House passed a bill in December that focused on enforcement of immigration laws and, if signed into law, would make it a felony to be in the country without documentation. The Senate reached an impasse on its own immigration legislation on Friday, setting the stage for a potential showdown over a proposed guest-worker program when Congress returns from a two-week recess on April 24. California, with its comparatively large apparel manufacturing base and its proximity to Mexico, is on the leading edge of the issue. “For anyone in the apparel industry not to get behind some form of legalization for these workers is to not support the people within your own industry,” said Dov Charney, founder of American Apparel in Los Angeles and a green-card carrying immigrant from Canada. “It’s to cut your nose off to spite your face.” The National Retail Federation does not have an offi cial position on the immigration issue, but the organi- zation is wary of a provision in the House bill that might force companies to verify the status of their employees, said Steve Pfi ster, senior vice president of government relations. “They need to be mindful of overly burden- VUCCI AP PHOTO/EVAN PHOTO BY “I think when we come back from recess, we’ll get a bill.” — Sen. Arlen Specter (R., Pa.), Senate Judiciary Committee some requirements on employers,” he said. Angeles’ Coalition for Humane Immigrant Rights, said zenship. If the Senate fi nds a way to break the impasse, May Y. Chen, international vice president of the of the all undocumented people living in the U.S., three a much larger battle looms in reconciling the bill with a UNITE HERE union, which represents apparel, textile, million are under the age of 18. version passed by the House. retail, hotel and restaurant workers, said thousands of “It’s going to be a long struggle,” Corpeno said of the “Obviously, we’ve got to secure the border and en- the union’s members came out of the shadows under a plans to reform the immigration laws. “We need to insti- force the law,” said President Bush Monday. Bush has 1986 legalization program, and she characterized this as tute legalization programs with a path to citizenship and been pressing Congress to pass a temporary worker a “dangerous’’ period. we need to make sure there is something for the future.” program, giving some legal status to illegal immigrants. “We stand at this really dangerous moment in time Kimi Lee, director of the Garment Worker Center in “But one way to do so is to make sure that people who where something really Draconian could happen, mak- Los Angeles, estimated that there are more than two mil- are coming in here to work have a legal…get a card so ing immigrants’’ a target “for all people’s problems lion undocumented workers in Los Angeles County. She they don’t have to try to sneak across the border, which when really these people are here to contribute,” said said growing competition from foreign manufacturers takes pressure off our border.” Chen, who is also manager of Local 23-35, representing has led to worsening conditions in domestic factories. But House Republicans don’t appear to be backing garment workers in New York. She was among those ral- “Because the factories are trying to compete with away from their bill, which focuses on border security lying on Monday, many of whom held signs that read “We low wages in other countries, they push to have lower and enforcement. House Majority Leader John Boehner Are America,” “Immigrant Values are Family Values,” and lower wages [here],” she said. (R., Ohio) rejected the Senate’s efforts to establish a and “Legalize Don’t Criminalize,” among other slogans. As a result, the so-called underground economy, guest-worker program Sunday on ABC’s “This Week” pro- There are concerns that undocumented workers de- where workers are paid off the books, employs between gram, which squarely pits him against the President. press wages and other labor standards. Publicized raids 10,000 and 20,000 people in Los Angeles, some of whom “You can’t begin to talk about a guest-worker bill in the Nineties, when illegal immigrants were found hold legal papers, she estimated. until you secure the borders,” Boehner said. “You have in virtual servitude in factories in El Monte, Calif., California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger in an opinion to remember that illegal immigrants are just that — il- and during sweeps of factories in New York by the column in Monday’s Wall Street Journal urged Congress legal. Until we begin to secure our borders and enforce Immigration & Naturalization Service, shone a harsh to “agree on legislation based on a simple philosophy: immigration laws, I don’t think we can begin talking light on industry practices. control of the border…and compassion for the immi- about a more comprehensive approach.” Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California grants.” He said “a compassionate immigration pol- However, Sen. Arlen Specter (R., Pa.), chairman of Fashion Association, said scrutiny by the government icy will acknowledge that immigrants are just like us: the Senate Judiciary Committee, who appeared on “Fox has increased awareness in the apparel industry. they’re moms and dads looking for work, wanting to pro- News Sunday,” struck a more conciliatory note. “The garment industry in Los Angeles has had to vide for their kids. Any measure that punishes charities “I think when we come back from recess, we’ll get jump through hoops for a long time,” Metchek said. “The and individuals who comfort and help immigrants is not a bill,” said Specter. “And when we get to the House, Department of Labor Standards Enforcement comes in only unnecessary, but un-American.” Speaker [Dennis] Hastert has signifi ed his willingness all the time to check that people are being paid mini- Illegal immigration also affects retailers. Last year, Wal- to consider a guest-worker program.” mum wage. You must have a fi le for each employee with Mart Stores Inc. agreed to pay $11 million to settle federal More enforcement is not the answer, said Sonia their documentation.” allegations that subcontractors used hundreds of illegal Ramirez, legislative representative for the AFL-CIO. State labor law “is applied to all workers in immigrants to clean its stores. The retailer also acknowl- “If anything, stronger enforcement has only pushed California without regard to residency,” said Dean Fryer, edged had inadequate internal compliance programs. people further into the shadows of society and allowed the San Francisco-based spokesman for California’s A Wal-Mart spokesman said its workers have to com- for even greater exploitation in the workplace,” she Department of Industrial Relations, adding that anyone plete a form that indicates legal residency. said. “A realistic reform would have to include a path to who works in California must be paid at least the mini- “The issue is across the board,” the spokesman said. legalization for these workers that are here.” mum wage of $6.75 per hour. “It’s a policy we take seriously across the board. It’s not Some sluggishness on the employment front over the Workers’ rights groups said the immigrants gener- geographically because you’ll fi nd large numbers of im- last fi ve years has helped to bring the infl ux of immi- ally work in the service sector where wages are low. In migrants in every state and, of course, we have opera- grants to the fore, said Harry Holzer, a professor of pub- addition to apparel manufacturing, these businesses tions in every state.” lic policy at Georgetown University. include restaurants, supermarkets, construction com- The Senate on Friday failed to pass two motions lim- “When the labor market was really strong in the sec- panies, farms and janitorial services. The hourly wages iting debate on the underlying border security bill and ond half of the 1990s, I don’t think people cared as much can range from $1.25 to $10. For the most part, the im- on a comprehensive compromise proposal that would because there were jobs for everybody,” he said. migrants earn less than California’s hourly minimum have created a temporary guest-worker program, tight- — With contributions from Emili Vesilind wage, the watchdog groups said. ened border security and established procedures for the and Khanh T.L. Tran, Los Angeles, Xiomara Corpeno, organizing director for Los illegal immigrants who live and work here to earn citi- and Sharon Edelson, New York 4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 WWD.COM Royal Connections WASHINGTON — When it comes to D.C. action heroes, Rima Al- Sabah of Kuwait is the Xena Warrior Princess of the capital’s social scene. “Washington is a political town, and I’m a political animal,” says Al-Sabah, whose most recent social coup was a blockbuster party at the Kuwaiti embassy featuring First Lady Laura Bush, Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, and Hollywood headliners Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones. George Stephanopoulos emceed, Rice played the piano, and Roberta Flack crooned for the crowd. And by establishing herself as the single power hostess able to lure White House insiders from their social bunkers, this super-chic ambassador’s wife proved that George W. Bush’s bubble could be popped, at least a little bit. “She’s brilliant at networking,” says social veteran Selwa “Lucky” Roosevelt, voicing what many Washington hostesses most admire about Al-Sabah. “She has everyone there and she is not polemical or judgmental. She really knows who everyone is and what they do.” Al-Sabah is also fearless about pushing the social envelope on Embassy Row. At one of her parties, she had Karl Rove blushing as a sexy Arabic folk dancer writhed in front of him in her less-than-seven veils. For another, held in honor of the Swedish ambassador, Jan Eliason (who had just been named president of the U.N. General Assembly), she hired a live band to sing Abba classics. Then there was last spring’s party for Colin Powell and Angelina Jolie, which was timed precisely at the moment the actress made headlines all over the world for her relationship with Brad Pitt. Now, the wife of the Kuwaiti ambassador Salem Al-Sabah is getting a lot of notice herself. As one Washington social puts it: “In the early days, a lot of the other embassy wives tried to compete with her. Now, everyone else has given up.’’ Her gift, friends say, is in wrangling celebrities, mixing Republicans and Democrats, and making them feel welcome — even if the First Lady and the secretary of state refused to show up until all had taken their seats. Perhaps so they wouldn’t have to confer with the hoi polloi or possibly deal with pesky questions about what Rice subsequently described as the administration’s “thousands” of “tactical errors” in Iraq. Not that any of these questions would come from the party’s hostess, who says that the war was never a subject of major controversy in Kuwait. “Everyone [in Kuwait] believed there were weapons of mass destruction,” she In the early days, a lot of the embassy wives “tried to compete with her. Now, they’ve given up, says one Washington social, discussing hostess” Rima Al-Sabah. says simply. “All intelligence pointed to that. My husband worked at the United Nations from 1991 to 1998 and everyone in the Security Council believed Saddam Hussein had weapons of mass destruction.’’ In fact, it’s Kuwait’s position as the Middle East’s staunchest sup- porter of the war in Iraq that has give Al-Sabah her muscle with members of the Bush administration. “Everyone at my party is a friend,’’ says the 40-ish, self-pro- fessed workaholic, who with her penchant for Dolce & Gabbana jeans and Jimmy Choo stilettos, has done plenty to dispel the stereotype of shy Arab women peeking out from behind the veil. A party like the March 8 celebration of the 60th Rima Al-Sabah

Anniversary of the United Nations POMBO VICKY PHOTOS BY Children’s Fund and International Women’s Day, she explains, “takes tenth of the world’s oil reserves, they met years before at the amazing planning. I only do things American University in Beirut where they were both studying po- when I’m passionate about them. litical science. They married in 1998 and moved to D.C in 2001, just A big dinner for me becomes like three weeks before September 11. choreography. It’s a production.’’ “If I hadn’t married my husband, I would have loved to have Still, it doesn’t hurt to have the Al-Sabah and Laura Bush been a war correspondent as a way to highlight the plight of peo- President tout your cause on net- ple who suffer,’’ she says, before adding that she hopes her latest work television just days before the dinner will have a similar effect, turning the spotlight on the hard- gala you’ve been planning for months. ships of the Afghan people, 70 percent of whom she says cannot read. Last year, as the Iraq war raged on and critics seethed that America had ignored Al-Sabah, a regular invitee to Fortune Magazine’s Most Powerful Women’s Summit, the victims of its earlier war in Afghanistan, Al-Sabah lined up corporate underwrit- also has some of her own scores to settle when it comes to establishing the sophistication ers ChevronTexaco, The Dow Chemical Co., ExxonMobil and Shell International and credentials of Arab women. She was 13 when she and her brother were sent to live with raised $1 million to help build a school for girls in Afghanistan. On March 1, a week her cousins in Paris for two years to study and avoid the worst of the fi ghting in Beirut. before Al-Sabah’s party was scheduled to take place, the President made a surprise “The kids used to ask me where I parked my camel,’’ recalls the mother of four boys. fi ve-hour visit to Afghanistan. Stepping out onto the tarmac in Kabul, where he was Today, the idea that anyone would say such a thing is more than a little surprising, greeted by President Hamid Karzai, Bush said: “We like stories of young girls going to given her taste for the most refi ned and westernized designer clothes a platinum card school for the fi rst time so they can realize their potential.’’ can buy. "Nobody cuts pants like Chloé,” she says. “Ungaro mixes colors like no one The realization of Al-Sabah’s own potential did not just come from being a “wife- else, and Alexander McQueen, I love his short suits and dresses.” She also favors Dior of.” A native of Lebanon and a former journalist herself, she worked as a stringer for suits and Gucci bags. the UPI, or United Press International, where she interviewed Church of England “I’m not trying to convince people that all Arab woman are like me,” she says a envoy Terry White in 1997, shortly before he was kidnapped in Beirut by Muslim minute later. “But I would like people to see me as just one of many different types of extremists. women they would see if they visited an Arab country.’’ She and her husband, a member of the ruling class, whose family sits atop one- — Susan Watters WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 5 WWD.COM

plication all contribute to our strong belief that this application could threaten the deposit insurance system and Wal-Mart Defends Bank Bid endanger America’s fi scal security,” Grossman said. Rep. Stephanie Tubbs Jones (D., Ohio), who said she By Kristi Ellis law,” failed to act ethically and failed to comply with was speaking on behalf of 100 Republican and Democratic governmental regulations. lawmakers who have expressed concerns about the ap- ARLINGTON, Va. — Wal-Mart Stores Inc. went before “We try very carefully to comply with all laws,” plication to the FDIC, also told the regulators that Wal- federal regulators on Monday to defend its bid to start Thompson said. “We are a big company and we do have Mart poses an “undue risk” to the deposit insurance fund, a bank, saying it did not intend to open bank branches a number of lawsuits.” would violate the nation’s policy of separation of banking and would limit the scope of the operation. She added that Wal-Mart has a new compliance offi ce and commerce, and raise “signifi cant supervisory and In the fi rst of three days of public hearings, the who reports directly to the company’s vice chairman. regulatory issues.” world’s largest retailer insisted repeatedly that it would use the bank only to process its credit card, debit card and electronic check transactions and that it had aban- Wal-Mart is absolutely committed not to engage in branch banking. doned plans for retail banking. “ ” “One of the most important messages we can leave — Jane Thompson, Wal-Mart Financial Services with you today is, Wal-Mart is absolutely committed not to engage in branch banking,” Jane Thompson, president Andrew Grossman, executive director of Wal-Mart The FDIC’s Jones asked how Wal-Mart Bank would of Wal-Mart Financial Services, said during the fi rst pub- Watch, a watchdog group with ties to organized labor, deal with the risk if the parent were in trouble. lic hearing on a bank application held by the Federal said, “Wal-Mart’s application poses unique and danger- Thompson said the bank would be protected by a “for- Deposit Insurance Corp. “We are single-mindedly seek- ous risks for the FDIC. mal parent indemnifi cation agreement,” an earmarked ing an industrial bank in order to provide greater effi - “This mammoth corporation’s historic patterns of dis- “evergreen” deposit account of at least $1 million and a ciency, effectiveness and safety in Wal-Mart’s interaction regarding legal accountability, the potential size of their conservative investment strategy. She said the company with the payment system.” charter and the troubling lack of transparency in its ap- would capitalize the bank initially at $125 million. Wal-Mart’s effort to set up what is known as an industrial loan corporation to handle processing of electronic payments for its stores has triggered opposition on Capitol Hill and in the banking industry. The FDIC, which super- vises state-chartered and state- regulated industrial banks, has received almost 3,000 letters on the issue. It must decide whether to approve Wal-Mart’s application. Opponents argue that the bank, even with its narrow focus, eventually would allow Wal-Mart to open retail banking branches, which could destroy its competitors. Critics of the discount chain have alleged that Wal-Mart has a record of pricing and employment practices that force smaller and independent retailers out of business. Wal-Mart now pays a third- party bank to process its electronic payments and maintains it could save millions of dol- lars if it took over processing through its own bank. Thompson said Wal-Mart — even if the FDIC approves its application — is committed to expanding its in-store bank-leas- ing strategy through long-term contracts with third-party institu- tions. The company has independent banks in 1,150 stores, and another 250 are opening between now and 2009. The chain has more than doubled its lease agreements and now has long-term leases with more than 1,400 tenants, some ex- tending to 2024, she said. “Wal-Mart is, in fact and in practice, clearly committed to supporting community banking, not undermining it,” the company said in its written statement to the FDIC. “Our commitment not to branch and our independent in- store branch strategy is not simply a promise,” Thompson said. “It is a very visible and rapidly growing reality, locked in by hundreds of long-term contracts.” John F. Bovenzi, deputy to the chairman and chief operating offi - cer at the FDIC, asked Thompson to respond to opponents’ asser- tions that Wal-Mart has an “unfavorable history in the treatment of its employees that refl ects poorly on the character of Wal-Mart management,” which he said, “ raises the question of whether Wal-Mart should be allowed to own an in- sured bank.” Thompson responded that the company is “against discrimina- tion,” pays “fair wages” and that 76 percent of its managers come from the “hourly ranks.” Douglas Jones, acting general counsel at the FDIC, asked Thompson to address allegations that Wal-Mart has committed “repeated violations of the 6 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 Latin Lovers

NEW YORK — What’s more romantic than the ﬂ amenco? This fall, designers channel the Spanish pastime with second-skin matador pants, festive skirts and lots of lace. Olé!

Collette Dinnigan’s silk bolero and Flowers of Romance’s silk satin skirt worn over Nanette Lepore’s silk strapless dress. Bill Blass belt; Cesare Paciotti shoes; men’s wear by Ennio Capasa for Costume National Homme. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Carlos Miele’s silk georgette blouse and cotton lace pants with Jill Stuart’s wool crepe vest. Erickson Beamon earrings; Saya Hibino ring; Giuseppe Zanotti shoes. EUP BY MIZU KATSUYUKI; FASHION ASSISTANTS: CINNAMON ST. JOHN AND MEGAN GERARD; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY AND BOBBI QUEEN YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY JOHN AND MEGAN GERARD; CINNAMON ST. ASSISTANTS: FASHION MIZU KATSUYUKI; EUP BY

Sanimi London’s silk satin and French Rebecca Taylor’s cotton lace blouse; lace jacket worn over Anna Sui’s silk lace Yeohlee’s wool cape, and Reem Acra’s shirt and cotton and silk pants. Nanette felted wool jersey skirt overlayed Lepore cummerbund; Jose & Maria in nylon tulle. Jose & Maria Barrera Barrera earrings; men’s wear by Juicy earrings; Flood’s Closet pin. Couture Men and Dolce & Gabbana. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN AT LA ESQUINA; MODELS: CLAUDIA/WOMEN AND DAVID/Q; HAIR BY DAVID MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MAK MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; LA DAVID ESQUINA; HAIR BY MODELS: CLAUDIA/WOMEN AND DAVID/Q; ERICKSEN AT KYLE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 WWD.COM Harvé Benard Takes Reins Out of Of Garfi eldMarks Brand By Julee Greenberg NEW YORK — With the financial backing of Harvé Benard, the former GM Design Group is seeking to reinvigorate the GarfieldMarks brand. The fi rm, which holds the trademarks for the Garfi eldMarks, Africa Womyn and iAlex-Alex Garfi eld labels, has been sold to Harvé Benard Ltd. from GMAC Commercial Finance for an undis- closed sum. In business since 1993, GM Design Group, a name that will change under the Harvé Benard umbrella of brands, has gone through ups and downs. In its heyday in the mid-Nineties, the brand generated $60 million in wholesale volume and was on sale at Nordstrom, Belk and Parisian department stores, as well as 1,100 small specialty stores. Co-founder Alex Garfi eld and his partner, Bernie Marks, sold the company to Pegasus Capital Advisors in 2000. Shortly after the deal closed, Garfi eld and Marks left the fi rm still holding a 50 percent stake in it. “They [Pegasus Capital] took the reins and began running the company like a fi nancial institution, not so much as an apparel company,” Garfi eld said. “Under Pegasus we became something different, profi t diminished, culture changed, we knew we had JALU, Libya — What do you get when to fi nd a new partner.” 1,300 people gather in the middle Harvé Benard is a $100 million company, A look from of the Libyan desert for one of the producing women’s Garfi eldMarks. longest solar eclipses — four minutes better sportswear, out- and seven seconds — in the past erwear, suits and dresses under the Harvé decade? A melting pot of ethnicities, Benard label. This and all sorts of desert attire — most deal closed late Friday and was handled by notably headdresses, long pants and, Andrew Jassin, man- of course, eclipse-viewing shades. aging director of the Travelers from as near as Egypt Jassin O’Rourke Group, a consulting firm and as far away as China, Australia, here. It marks Harvé Europe and America fl ocked to this Benard’s entry into the bridge sportswear barren locale, where nothing but arena and is its second sand and sky could be seen for acquisition in three months. In January, hundreds of miles. Harvé Benard bought a majority stake in New Frontier, a women’s casual better sportswear brand catering to about 600 specialty stores na- tionwide. Garfi eld said that he returned to GM Design Group in August 2004 when Jones Texas Inc. acquired it. Jones’ chairman and chief executive offi cer, Edward M. Jones 3rd, left the company in September.Garfi eld began searching for another partner. “Over the past two years, business has slipped,” he said. After meeting with several other fi rms, Garfi eld chose Harvé Benard. “There are people working here who have been here for 20 years, and that’s great to see,’’ Garfi eld said. “I know that these people are like we are, and our culture is already return- ing to what it once was.” His offices already have been relocated within Harvé Benard’s design studio and showroom here, while maintaining separate design and sales teams. The brands also share a 340,000-square-foot distribution facility in Clifton, N.J. Garfi eld remains with the company as director, with design and sales responsibilities. “We want to keep design and sales separate so that we can keep Garfi eldMarks as pure as it is today,” said Bernard Holtzman, co-owner of Harvé Benard Ltd. “They already have a very strong team with wonderful design talent, and we think we can make this brand even more stellar.” The firm will continue with the three bridge labels: Garfi eldMarks, a career-based line; Womyn, a pants resource, and iAlex, a higher-priced career line using new innovative fabrics. Garfi eld said that part of the reason for strong sales has been the “vanity sizing approach,” which allows a size 14 woman to fi t into a size 12 garment. The Womyn line carries the same fi t as Garfi eldMarks, but Garfi eld said he has already begun to revamp the line, to make it younger and more contemporary looking, but with the same misses’ fi t. Garfi eld said that with Harvé Benard as a parent, the company can now perform as it was, with the ability to maintain fabrics and redevelop lost business. “The staff has been shell-shocked,” Garfi eld said. “There have been so many changes in our corporate culture. But when I walked in here today and saw my staff smiling, I knew this was the right decision. We have only been here for a few hours, but we are already back on our feet.” PHOTOS BY KEVIN GRAY PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 9 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Cassini’s Wife Steps Up to Carry on His Company By Rosemary Feitelberg tually, he was very friendly with her. She called him ‘The Maestro.’ She invited him to the Philippines.” NEW YORK — Even in the winter of his 56-year career, Oleg Cassini exercised the That knack for sobering up a joke with historical fact was something that Cassini entrepreneurial spirit of a designer who was just getting started. had mastered. In another twist, at the time of his death, the designer was working on His wife, Marianne Nestor-Cassini, who succeeded him as president of Oleg a customized suit for the current Philippines president, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, Cassini Inc., is carrying out his plans with the hope of giving the brand more interna- to wear to the opening of the Oleg Cassini boutique at Rustan’s in the next month or tional punch. two. The designer’s products have been sold there for more than 40 years. The fact that Nestor-Cassini was the designer’s wife came as quite a surprise to That’s almost as long as Cassini had been married to Nestor-Cassini, whom he many in the industry when the designer died March 17 at the age of 92. And not only met in Europe. Eager to learn a few European languages and see some of the histor- were they married, but the marriage had lasted 35 years. For decades, Cassini culti- ical sites she loved to read about, Nestor-Cassini left her native Florida and moved vated the dashing, man-about-town image, a beacon to ladies everywhere. During an to Paris to model after graduating from high interview a few years ago, Cassini acknowledged he was having a relationship with school. She landed cover shots for magazines one woman, but he denied they were married. “She remains anonymous simply be- such as Marie Claire, Marie France, Jardin du cause she doesn’t want people to know about us,” he explained. Monde and Jours de France. Being in the City But his widow said their marriage was not as clandestine as it may have appeared. of Light made it easy to hop on a train to work “It wasn’t on the cover of People, but it wasn’t a big secret,” said Nestor-Cassini, add- in Milan or London. ing that all their friends knew. “We’re just very private. I don’t think anyone would say “I wanted to learn how to speak French, he was shy, but he was terribly shy.” Italian and Spanish and I wanted to travel A private memorial for the designer is set for tonight in the St. Regis Hotel’s to see what the world was like then,’’ she re- Versailles Room on what would have been his 93rd birthday. called. “I also was very interested in history. It Tireless until the end, Cassini, who as a younger man jogged from his Gramercy was a great learning experience. Reading, trav- Park home to his Upper East Side offi ce, had lined up initiatives for the next sev- eling and living in a country you learn more eral months. The designer’s collection of suits is being introduced at Lord & Taylor, than you could from any lesson. Modeling was Harrods and other select stores. Harrods will also unveil his collection of couture the vehicle to experience all these things. I bridal dresses retailing for upward of $8,700 at the end of the month. The Sexy Woman needed a reason to go there to pay the bills.” Collection by Oleg Cassini, his fi rst She fi rst encountered Cassini on a night in go at plus-size bridal dresses, also Oleg Cassini with his wife in 1983. Paris around 1970, and an argument ensued bows this spring. The company is about the exact location of Charles Martel’s going forward with the existing de- Marianne Battle of Tours. The designer had a keen inter- sign team who worked side-by-side Nestor- est in history, which appealed to the American with Cassini and will draw from the Cassini model. He peppered his conversation with his- many samples, sketches, designs, modeling torical tidbits and read history books to relax, fabrics and ideas he left behind. in the early often reading about one subject in three differ- “Every day he had a new idea Seventies. ent languages to get a more balanced view. Once and a new plan,’’ Nestor-Cassini they concluded that each was said. “He had enormous energy. The couple in 1995. partly right about the Battle of We’ve been working with him Tours, Cassini suggested that they for so long that we kind of inher- go on 10 dates “and then we’ll ei- ited those strengths and feel very ther have a great friendship or a driven. We’re trying to be upbeat great romance.’’’ because he would have wanted It wound up being the latter, things that way.” and the pair wed in 1971. His Some of the designer’s other bride started spending more time projects are also coming to frui- sitting in on design and business tion. Cassini’s wedding dresses will meetings than posing for photog- be among those featured this fall in raphers. “It was so interesting a Rizzoli photography book titled to listen to Oleg’s creative ideas “The Wedding Dress,” and the pub- that the other stuff gradually lisher has another about his life in faded away — as often does for the works that is tentatively titled people,” she said. “Oleg was al- “Icon of Style.” One of Cassini’s ways a lot of fun. He had very un- wedding dresses is featured on the usual and creative ideas.” cover of Brides magazine, which In the late Fifties or early hits newsstands today. When “The Sixties, Bonwit Teller balked Sentinel” is released in movie the- when Cassini said boots, not aters April 18, Kim Basinger’s fi rst shoes, would be a better licens- lady character wears a few Oleg ing deal. “Oleg told them, ‘What I Cassini ensembles. The idea of re- think will be important is boots.’ turning to the White House if only fi ctionally was something that pleased the designer. That just shows you how ad- After all, it was dressing Jacqueline Kennedy during her White House years that put vanced he was. Look at how im- him on the map. portant boots are today,” Nestor- “He always said what he did for her was making the world’s most expensive T-shirts,’’ Cassini said. “But sometimes it is Nestor-Cassini said. “He told Larry King the dress she wore to the Inaugural gala was a not so easy to get a point across T-shirt dress in the most sumptuous fabric. But he said she could wear T-shirts so well when an idea is very advanced.” — she had fantastic shoulders and great arms. He was a minimalist designer. To him, His idea to sign Johnny Carson simplicity was perfection. He liked to say, ‘A dress is an envelope for the body.’” as a celebrity model in 1967 — a fi rst for a designer — was not well-received ini- Simple as Cassini’s designs were, his business plans were extensive. The designer tially, even though the “Tonight’’ show host already had an audience of millions. had been looking for a New York location for a freestanding store, and that, as well as “People he worked with said, ‘Oh, that’s just another one of your crazy ideas,’” introducing stores in Europe and the U.S., remains an objective. The development of Nestor-Cassini said. “Eventually, Johnny had to get Oleg to release him from his other products, such as Italian-made cashmere and sportswear, is also being pursued. contract” so that he could sign with the then-Hart, Schaffner & Marx. Nestor-Cassini is also considering whether to reinterpret some of the prints In the late Eighties, he created the Cassini Competitor Collection awards and Cassini helped Gimmo Etro develop in the Seventies and Eighties, when the Italian presented them to Ted Turner, Michael Jordan, Mario Andretti, Burt Reynolds, Burt company was gaining steam and using them for a furniture collection. That is some- Bacharach, Bob Hope and others. The designer even persuaded Jordan to fl y in on thing that Pucci has done successfully, Nestor-Cassini said, adding that her husband the red-eye to appear on the “Today” show and Regis Philbin’s talk show to help and Emilio Pucci became friends as teenagers and skied together on their high school plug the awards, Cassini’s wife said. team. There are also plans to open three or four men’s wear freestanding stores in “I think he was the youngest person I ever met,’’ Nestor-Cassini said. “Sometimes China this year, and introduce the couture bridal collection to the Far East and the you’d say, ‘Well, is that possible?’ and if he didn’t do it, someone else would do it in Philippines, and possibly the U.S. six months. Licensing, celebrity models, drawing inspiration from history — those Cassini has a personal tie to the Philippines. Noting that he owned a few hundred were all things Oleg was doing decades ago. He always was a young designer. He pairs of shoes, his wife laughed, “He was not quite Imelda Marcos,” and added, “ac- always thought young. He never thought old.” Francois Damide Signs On as New President of Lela Rose NEW YORK — Francois Damide has joined the ready- Under his supervision, Solstiss/Bucol America’s through marketing initiatives and eventually selling to to-wear company Lela Rose as president. customer base increased from about 12 to 700. stores outside the U.S. He replaces Erin Ferrara, who left the company at Solstiss lace and Bucol silks are sold to such design- Damide said he has known the company’s namesake the end of March. ers as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren and Lela Rose, who is chief executive offi cer and creative Most recently, Damide was a consultant for Solstiss/ Vera Wang. director, for 12 years. She is a Solstiss/Bucol customer Bucol America, where he was president and chief ex- At Lela Rose, Damide plans to expand into acces- and has been since she worked for Richard Tyler be- ecutive offi cer until last year. He opened the U.S. of- sories and other licensed products. He is also consid- fore setting up her own business in 1996. Her signature fi ces for Solstiss in 1986 and in 1995 set up a joint ven- ering opening another division, such as eveningwear. collection is sold at Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman, ture with Bucol, which is owned by Hermès. Other objectives are increasing brand awareness Mitchell’s and Richards. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Chinese Mills Set Sights on Europe, North America By Lisa Movius was positive for foreign participants. Some said the show’s greatest asset came not from increased business but from the networking and relationship-building opportu- BEIJING — Chinese textiles and apparel manufacturers exhibiting at a fl urry of re- nities it created. cent trade shows here focused on capturing more U.S. and European business. “It is more for networking than actual business,” said Bruno Landi, a marketing Exhibitors at the sixth annual Intertextile Beijing trade show said they saw in- manager with Ermenegildo Zegna, which has 50 stores and 6 percent of its market in creased global diversity among potential buyers coming through their booths. In ad- China. “We already have regular customers and use the show to meet up with them, dition, exhibitors benefi ted from the overlap of several other industry-related shows and to see what’s new in the industry, as well as collecting new names. We don’t get around the city, including the China International Trade Fair for Fibers & Yarns, the that many new customers because we are very selective about who we sell to.” Beijing International Sewing Machinery & Clothing Accessories show and the fi rst installment of the China International Clothing & Accessories Fair. Here and right: Inside and outside views Intertextile Beijing ended its three-day run March of Intertextile Beijing, which had a 30 at the Beijing Exhibition Center, where 12 halls capacity crowd of 689 exhibitors. and three temporary tents covering about 323,000 PHOTOS BY LISA MOVIUS PHOTOS BY

Yarn Expo drew more than 110 exhibitors. square feet were fi lled to capacity to accommodate 689 exhibitors, up 23 percent from 2005. Companies from 18 countries and regions accounted for 255 of the exhibitors, and most vendors were from Italy, Taiwan, South Korea, Hong Kong and Germany. “We’ve seen very good growth in terms of both numbers and space,” said Annie Ma, trade fairs group manager for Messe Frankfurt, Intertextile Beijing’s organizer. “Our problem is that we don’t have enough space. We expanded by 4,000 square meters [43,000 square feet] and still had a wait list.” Intertextile also featured three days of sympo- siums addressing industry topics ranging from trade policy to design trends. Intertextile Beijing attracted mostly Chinese buyers, but Ma noted that those buyers come from different domestic markets. “Exhibitors meet different buyers here, mostly from the North and Northeast, com- Domestic manufacturers looking for a more global show were somewhat disap- pared to the South in Shanghai,” Ma said. “Some come here from south China, par- pointed, but noted there were signs that the show was beginning to draw a larger ticularly to explore new markets.” contingent of Western and European clientele. Last year’s edition of Intertextile Beijing attracted about 17,000 buyers, most of “We’re looking to export, mostly to the West, and to other East Asian markets, not to them Chinese. Of those, 47 percent came from northeastern China, 40 percent from China,” said Hunter Tai, a representative of Taiwan’s La Mode Textile Co., which pro- Shanghai, 11 percent from Guangdong and south China and 2 percent from western duces cloth for high-end women’s wear. “This year is much better. It’s still very Chinese, China. Attendance fi gures for this year’s show were not available. maybe 70 percent, but two years ago, it was more like 90 percent.” The predominance of Chinese buyers was frustrating to domestic exhibitors, but Wu Qingyang, marketing director of Fujian Zhonghe, which had one of the busi- est booths at the show, also wanted more Western clientele than Intertextile offered, but added that about 30 percent of the contacts made at last year’s exhibition became customers. “As long as they’re good customers, it doesn’t matter where they’re from, although our target is North America and Europe,” said Madeleine Chi, manager of Zhejiang Bolide Textiles & Garments. The company produces 65 percent to 70 percent for export, of which “at least 50 to 60 percent is to the United States.” Exhibitors at Yarn Expo, an offshoot of Intertextile Beijing also organized by Messe Frankfurt, said the parallel shows helped improve the mix of buyers passing through their booths. In particular, the huge state ministry-organized Beijing International Sewing Machinery & Clothing Accessories Show, or BISMA, was held on the ground fl oor of the China World Trade Center, while the Yarn Expo ran on the second fl oor. Katy Lam, trade fairs director of Messe Frankfurt, said the presence of BISMA “makes for a very complete exhibition, and you see all layers of the industry and production...The exhibitors of machinery on the fi rst fl oor are the buyers for the yarn on the second fl oor.” More than 110 fi ber producers exhibited at the event, which ran March 29 to 31. “This is our second time here at the Beijing show and we returned because business was very good last time, with 20 percent of the contacts we made here resulting in business deals,” said Suahil Haji Yunus, director of Latif Textile Mills, a Pakistani yarn manufacturer, noting that Latif has been developing the China market for a decade and exports 65 percent of its production to China. “It will probably become more after quotas end in 2008.” China’s yarn imports grew 80 percent in the fi rst half of 2005. China’s Commerce Minister, Bo Xilai, announced plans last month at the global textile economic forum in Beijing to establish textile coop- eration zones with developing Southeast and South Asian countries. Lam added that the two-year-old show is still establishing its repu- tation. This year there was growth in terms of countries represented and technologies offered. “There are a lot of new fi bers on the market this year, using materials like milk protein, egg and bamboo,” Lam said. Next year, Intertextile Beijing will also spill over into China World, while maintaining the site at the Beijing Exhibition Center. It will run March 22 to 24; the next Intertextile Shanghai will be Oct. 26 to 28. WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 11 WWD.COM

d-cln L’Autre Crisp Style Leads at White Fair Chose

MILAN — Clean, sophisticated looks seen on the runways the stand had selected some structured fall pieces here were echoed in the fall 2006 collections that fi lled the made from noble fabrics. halls of the 12th edition of the White ready-to-wear fair. Susanne Tide-Frater, creative director at The show, held here from Feb. 23 to 26, has grown British retailer Harrods in London, came to the steadily in the hands of its new Florentine organizers, fair “looking for edgy brands, and White is a good Pitti Immagine. hunting ground. There are always one or two The fair, at Superstudio Più on Via Tortona, attracted brands here that can make a difference to the 179 exhibiting brands, 18 more than last year. Organizers store’s fl oor,” she said. confi rmed 7,597 visitors attended White and its sister Footwear brand L’Autre Chose showed its fairs, NeoZone and Cloudnine — and 24 percent of them third rtw collection at White. The line, led by were international buyers, up 3 percent compared with outerwear in previous seasons, was rounded out February 2005. for fall by knitwear, silk blouses and dresses, all Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Fifties-inspired. A light gray dress with rounded Napoleone said he considered the fairs collar, tie waist and puffed short a success. Hood sleeves was done in an extra- “We were worried that per- fi ne Loro Piana felted woolen haps earlier dates for the rtw fair fabric and in printed silk. MilanoVendeModa would affect visitor “This is our fi rst real collec- numbers for us, but we had really position, and we have had a lot of in- tive feedback,” said Napoleone. terest — the cashmere knits with Fashion’s new mood — unembel- suede elbow patches and the silk lection of bags inspired by gangsters. Vintage tan leather lished, sober, unfrilly — that was seen dresses are the sort of thing buyers are gun holsters were stitched onto the outside of soft black throughout fall rtw collections here and looking for now,” said Manuela Massa, bags, and a pair of sequined pistols was appliquéd on an- in Paris, London and New York, was re- marketing director of L’Autre Chose. other model. The company used details like tiny mirrors fl ected at White. Many of the offerings After launching its four-year-old col- inserted into linings and supersoft leather in rich tones of were created from a mix of natural fab- lection from its established knitwear forest green, violet and smoke gray. rics, including wool, linen and silk. line, Appartamento 50 showed a more Eight-year-old forte_forte, based in Vicenze, Italy, and Miriam Baluga, director of complete look for fall, including knit- showing for the second time at White, returned to the fair as d-cln, in Capri, Italy, said her fi rm had ted hats and necklaces. Appartamento part of a plan to expand the company, which has 400 retail- put more focus on materials used in the 50 has 500 retailer clients, with a turn- ers. “We are really enthusiastic at the response from White collection, which featured knitwear in over of $5.3 million, or 4.5 million euros — we saw new clients from Japan and from Los Angeles,” mohair and alpaca mixed with fl uid silk at current exchange, which the brand said sales director Silvia Galvan. The Forties-styled line in- gunmetal gray dresses and winter-weight hopes to increase by 30 percent by cluded a red wool coat with bone buttons and double-front- linen Bermuda shorts. yearend. pleat tweed pants. Accessories included white enameled “Trends are defi nitely cleaner this season,” said Baluga. “American and Japanese markets for us are growing fl ower hair combs and detachable lace collars. “There are fewer details like sequins and ribbons that dec- steadily, so it’s important that we produce merchandise Barbara Kramer from Designers & Agents, based orated recent collections. There’s a real return to natural geared toward them,” said director Sabrina Baroni Chbeir. in New York, was attracted to forte_forte’s blend of fabrics and softer colors like gray, cork and porcelain.” Using its knitwear expertise, Appartamento 50 created a Victorian and masculine details. Hood also used fall linens. The Ancona, Italy, brand collection that included knit coats in light chestnut and “It’s my fi rst time here and it’s good to see new en- inserted a touch of masculine tailoring to its line, which superfi ne silk jersey tops in duck-egg blue with chocolate ergy from Italian designers. I loved how collections like included a linen-hemp mix in pinstriped jackets and black lace accents and appliquéd fl owers. forte_forte had taken embellishment down a notch, but lace-like mohair V-neck knits. Director Rita Cappannini Accessories line Aristolasia, of Florence, garnered the they still have handiwork in them,” said Kramer. said new buyers from Hong Kong and the U.K. visiting interest of Japanese and American buyers with a new col- — Stephanie Epiro

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Upper tier now included Year in 2004, and Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani, who were among the most lost $25 million to date and will lose an- sublicensed products under the Jessica buzzed-about runway shows of recent fashion weeks here. other $75 million through the remainder Simpson and Princy names; middle tier But there’s a key catch: In the world of celebrity fashion brands, if the celebrity of its licensing agreement. Tarrant is also was for products bearing the name JS by doesn’t wear his or her own merchandise, will the consumer? seeking a declaration by the court, or de- Jessica and mass tier was for products The $100 million breach of contract lawsuit against Jessica Simpson charges her claratory judgment, that it has an exclu- under the Sweet Kisses by JS name. with failing to promote her clothing lines, Princy and JS by Jessica Simpson. The sive sublicense with Camuto, as well as Tarrant said that its attempts to grow Tarrant Apparel Group, manufacturer of the lines, alleged that Simpson failed to sup- a separate declaration by the court that the Jessica Simpson brand name under port the lines and refused to be photographed wearing clothes from her collections. Tarrant did not breach any terms of the its sublicense were “repeatedly thwart- In an interview with WWD in August, Simpson, fresh off a $10 million advance licensing agreement. ed” by the defendants. The lawsuit also on the fashion lines, said, “I don’t want the Jessica Simpson brand to be anything Neither Camuto nor Simpson could charged that Camuto “engaged in a bad- I wouldn’t wear.” But the Princy line is a young contemporary collection of denim be reached for comment. faith attempt to render [the] sublicense (retailing between $59 and $99); knit tops (retailing between $24 and $59), and jack- As reported in WWD, Simpson signed null.” Tarrant also charged that it at- ets (retailing between $69 and $89), which might be considered a bit junior for the a master licensing deal with Andrew tempted to obtain approval for its next 25-year-old singer and actress who is known to wear dresses from collections like Kirpalani, chairman of JS Brand Princy line, but that “Camuto has un- Valentino and Roberto Cavalli. Management, in October 2004 for $10 mil- reasonably withheld such approval by “I have a vision for what I want done,” Simpson said in August. “I don’t want my lion up front. In January 2005, JS Brand wrongfully claiming that the sublicense name on something that isn’t right.” Management entered into a sublicense has been terminated.” It seemed the advertising campaigns were consistent with Simpson’s ideas on agreement with Tarrant. Kirpalani sold Tarrant said in the lawsuit that it the brand. In November, Simpson, now in the midst of a divorce from Nick Lachey, the master license in August 2005 for $15 had numerous meetings with JS Brand was in the Mojave Desert in Lancaster, Calif., shooting a $2 million advertising million to Camuto, president and chief ex- Management and Simpson, and that JS campaign for her contemporary collection, JS by Jessica Simpson. But when it ecutive offi cer of VCS Group and co-found- Brand Management said that Simpson came time for the Princy advertising campaign, a company spokeswoman said a er of Nine West Group Inc., but JS Brand would be “supportive of the clothing younger model, not Simpson, was shot for the current spring campaign. Management retained a sublicense deal. line, from inspecting the clothing and Like Simpson, Lopez was another boldfaced name who caught some fl ack for According to the lawsuit, the subli- giving her comments and approval/dis- not wearing her collection, JLo, a young contemporary collection of denim and cense obligated JS Brand Management approval to wearing the product publicly logo-driven pieces, but Lopez answered the criticism with her better contemporary to “provide reasonable assistance to promoting the products.” But Tarrant collection, Sweetface, which she is frequently photographed wearing. to [Tarrant] in marketing the subli- also charged that Simpson would not “We have to work within our censed products at [Tarrant’s] request.” pose for photos nor provide any photo- own parameters and do what’s Paragraph 6.5 of the sublicense, includ- graphs to promote the product lines. Jessica Simpson right for us,” Lopez told WWD ed in the lawsuit, states, “Ms. Simpson In one example, Tarrant said that on location for her in February on the eve of her shall be actively involved in promoting Charming Shoppes in February 2005 contemporary line’s Sweetface presentation here. the sub-licensed products, whether re- was prepared to sign a three-year agree- ad campaign. Some celebrities attach more quested or not by sublicensee, and shall, ment to purchase the JS by Jessica line than just their names to their wherever reasonably practicable and ap- of apparel, which would have covered brands. Beyoncé Knowles, Nicky propriate, publicly wear/display or use Tarrant’s entire minimum volume under Hilton and Stefani are involved the sublicense products, particularly at the license through that one sales chan- in the design process and, more public events, shows and appearances.” nel alone. The retailer placed $5 million importantly, are photographed Tarrant paid JS Brand Management in apparel orders and increased orders wearing their labels everywhere $600,000 as an advance advertising and to $8 million within weeks. Charming from the red carpet to the streets marketing fee for 2004 and 2005, with also requested that Simpson make of Los Angeles. Knowles even commitments for guaranteed payments public appearances, “but she refused,” launched her collection, House of throughout the initial term of an ad- court papers alleged. By May 2005, Deréon, onstage in Japan during a ditional $1.7 million. The lawsuit said Charming cancelled half its orders. Destiny’s Child concert. And some that upon execution of the sublicense, In May 2005, Tarrant said it began designers are fi nding the demand Tarrant paid $1.6 million as a guaranteed sales of Princy, and encountered simi- to be a designer a little more in- sale royalty for 2004 and 2005, and an ad- lar issues in not obtaining any “mean- tense than they bargained for. In ditional $4.4 million was guaranteed by ingful support” from Simpson. The law- February, Lopez told WWD, “All Tarrant under the terms of the sublicense suit alleged that when asked in June these other big fashion houses do for the remainder of the initial term. 2005 what is her favorite brand of jeans, two or three big shows a year, and According to the sublicense agree- Simpson said, “True Religion” instead that’s great for them. I like to take ment, the initial term was for a three- of “Princy.” Tarrant said in the lawsuit it slower.” year period ending on Dec. 15, 2007, that “without celebrity marketing, the Like Lopez, Stefani has two col- with Tarrant having the right to renew product went nowhere.” lections, Harajuku Lovers, a lower- for an additional two-year term. The The lawsuit also charged that priced casual line that retails for distribution channel and royalty rate Camuto, in bad faith, prohibited Tarrant less than $100, and L.A.M.B., a was agreed at 8 percent for the upper from using the Jessica Simpson trade- higher-priced designer contemporary line, but from the beginning, Stefani was often tier, or department and specialty stores; mark so “Camuto alone could profit seen wearing looks from both collections, even during her pregnancy. 6 percent for the middle tier, or midlev- from its use.” It said that Camuto has a Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, who sell their tween label at Wal-Mart, are proac- el nameplates such as J.C. Penney, and Jessica Simpson footwear line. tively taking measures to make sure their fashion collections jibe with their personal 5 percent for the mass tier, such as Wal- Tarrant also said that it has not re- tastes and styles. They have been reshifting their company, Dualstar Entertainment Mart and Kmart. ceived any breach notice from Camuto Group, which rang up an estimated $1 billion in retail sales worldwide in 2004, to be When Camuto bought the master li- in connection with the sublicense. A more in sync with the budding fashionista image they’ve grown to personify. cense, he agreed to assume the obliga- source close to the parties said that they “We’ve really been narrowing down the company and doing things we want to tions owed to Tarrant, according to the tried settling the matter amicably, but to do,” said Ashley, who sat in on fi ttings with designer Zac Posen and learned why he lawsuit. The parties also changed the no avail. picked certain pieces for his catwalk. defi nition relating to the distribution — With contributions from — Lauren DeCarlo channels, granting Tarrant a greater Liza Casabona

via lawyer Ed Hayes on Friday, by Monday News Corp., offi cially instructs its themselves operating under more scrutiny, if Stern was vigorously asserting his pure employees to “avoid even the appearance only for appearance’s sake. “I think they’re intentions. Stern claimed he offered of...a confl ict of interest,” the paper’s going to be a little more hesitant the next MEMO PAD Burkle his services as a “consultant on own position on the matter is less clear. time there’s a book deal fl oating around,” media strategy,” while also inviting him A spokesman for the Post did not return said one. “Col [Allan, the Post’s editor] will STERN UND DRANG: With the journalism to invest in his clothing company. In their phone calls, but several former editorial come down like a ton of bricks and, frankly, world in a lather over the alleged misdeeds three meetings, Stern maintains Burkle employees said they were never made Rupert will, too,” said another. of Jared Paul Stern, perhaps it’s a good solicited his advice on scenarios including aware of any guidelines governing whether In the meantime, Page Six editor time to quote Michael Kinsley: “The the possible purchase of the New York reporters can accept gifts or money from Richard Johnson and the Post seem eager to scandal is not what’s illegal. The scandal Observer and investing in Radar magazine. people they write about. “I really don’t distance themselves from Stern as much is what’s legal.” In other words, whether (Stern says Burkle even told him, “Maybe think that sort of thing is policed at the as possible. After letting Hayes handle his or not Stern, a freelance gossip writer for I’d make you publisher of Radar.”) “I did paper,” said one former editor. initial reaction to the scandal, Stern hired a the New York Post’s Page Six column, not use the best judgment in combining Whatever guidelines the paper may have, new lawyer, Joseph Tacopina, who has taken attempted extortion in his conversations those discussions, but to go and start written or unwritten, they don’t seem to a much more aggressive stance. The change with billionaire Ron Burkle, the episode is throwing around the word ‘extortion’ — it’s apply to the Post’s gossip writers, according appears to stem from Hayes’ relationship casting a hot spotlight on the culture of completely insane,” he told WWD. to numerous sources. “Most people at with Johnson, whom he also represents. the Rupert Murdoch-owned tabloid. Is Stern to be believed? That’s for the the paper were guided by their own moral Stern apparently worried that Hayes might As the Post’s competitors have gleefully feds to determine. But assuming he is, compass,” said the former editor. “I think be willing to sacrifi ce him to keep the crowed, Stern stands accused of offering for the sake of argument, it’s not clear Page Six has its own rules, and people story’s taint from spreading to Johnson. to shield Burkle from unfavorable coverage his actions would violate the Post’s ethics outside Page Six don’t know what they Hayes declined to comment, and Stern said on Page Six in return for payment. Despite standards, at least as they’re observed in are.” But several ex-staffers contend that only that he had never offi cially retained his apparent admissions of guilt, issued practice. While the Post’s parent company, the Post’s gossip writers will soon fi nd Hayes in the fi rst place. — Jeff Bercovici the new

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IekhY[0:DHikXiYh_X[hijkZo(&&*"8[jWH[i[WhY^?dY$ 14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975

Senior Merchandiser Fabric Piece Goods Wtd To oversee product development for men’s licensed WE ARE BUYING CLOSEOUTS! headwear & bags. Good technical knowledge of fabric and Call or E-mail Kristin or Youn at knits. Report to VP of Merchandising. Travel required. (212) 382-4670 / [email protected] Production Manager Candidate must be a well organized and detail oriented individual. Responsibilities include all phases of sample development and production. Must have experience Design Hell..p! communicating with overseas factories. Digital Arts Boot Camp Training Photoshop and Illustrator Licensing Assistant customized to the artistry Responsible for art and product submission to various Cheap Warehouse Space of your design specialization licensors, and tracking of approvals. Individual must be very Presently set up as cutting room. persistent and organized. Tables, Feedrail + Lighting included. Call 212-244-1435 Approx. 20,000 sq. ft. Will rearrange Traffic Coordinator space as needed. Call (973) 249-9977 or (646) 732-3861 Data entry/filing with experience in MS Office/Excel. Must be detail oriented with analytical skills. Communicate with For Space in Garment Center FASHION RESUMES Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail freight forwarder/ wholesale/sales and overseas factories. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates 212-880-0414 GILBERT CAREER RESUMES A/R Assistant (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Search For Space In Garment Center fashionresumes.com Responsibilities include communicating w-factor, whse and Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee fashioncareercenter.com reps, Handling all non-factor sales (including credit card). www.midcomre.com Must be detail oriented & experience with Excel. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100

Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th Great work environment and benefits! 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Please email resume to: [email protected] Search- www.manhattanoffices.com

SHOWROOM TO SHARE Assistant/Associate Designer-Men’s 1407 BROADWAY- Immediate Occupancy. Dresses Includes: desks, phones & showroom. Call Jeff to discuss @ (212) 764-6500 Merchandising/Design Qualifications: Looking for the right people Candidate must have 1-2 years experience in Men’s with the right spirit in CUSTOMER SERVICE AND SALES REPRESENTATIVE merchandising/design. Sportswear, extremely proficient in Illustrator and Must have substantial Photoshop (preferably Mac platform). Team player, State of California experience in the good communication skills, highly organized, work We are presently looking for a customer service and sales better dress business. well with others. representative for an international women’sapparel manufac- Please email resumes to: turer to work exclusively with our product. [email protected] Responsibilities include: Partner/Merger/Alliance All interested candidates should send their resume by fax or Contemporary/Missy novelty knitwear ACCOUNT MANAGER...... 70-90K Initial Technical sketches, catalog pages, cads and email in confdence to the attention of: co. ( sweaters & knit tops) currently Wal-Mart ,planning, forecasting ,sales selling specialty stores and private label, Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 presentation boards. Mr. Eddy Chemali seeks partner or merge with co. or China [email protected] Fax: 514-685-7630 or by email to: [email protected] factory w/ strong prod’n & backend support. [email protected] Fax or E-Mail resumes to: Inquiries can be directed by phone &/or to arrange an appt: Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N 212-736-2349 / [email protected] Eddy Chemali or assistant Laura Martellaci APPAREL STAFFING Tel: 1-800-631-1839 (Montreal, Canada) DESIGN * SALES * MERCH ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Designer ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Established, fast-paced private label Creative Designer MERCHANDISER Production Coord $55K (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 company is looking for an associate Long Island NY based Fashion School/ Many Opptys for Bi-Lingual Chinese level designer w/ a degree in Fashion Office supply company seeks talented Well established ladies moderate [email protected] PATTERN/SAMPLES Design. Must be able to work creative designer. Nassau/Suffolk bor- sportswear co. seeks experienced Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast independently, possess great follow der location. MAC & Illustrator a must. hands on person to lead merchandise A/R BOOKKEEPER through skills, and have the ability to team. Outstanding opportunity. All PRODUCTION JOBS work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Please fax or email resume with salary Fast paced Private Label Co. (Ladies Women’s apparel co seeks A/R book- flat sketch & illustrate. The ideal requirements to Mr. Lazo at: resumes strictly confidential. Please keeper w/ garment center exp & EDI candidate will have experience in both fax resume Attn Nicholas 212-869-3671 Sportswear) is looking to fill the (631) 789-8989 or following positions. Please note all PATTERNS, SAMPLES, CB’s a must. Fax resume (212) 719-2942 wovens and knits, with a focus on [email protected] print/embroidery development. Profi- MINNESOTA RELO candidates must be team players PRODUCTIONS ciency in Illustrator and Photoshop w/excellent communications skills, Designer Denim Bottom * Trim Developer $85-95K detail-oriented and computer literate. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. required. * Senior Fabric R&D $75-95K Call Sherry 212-719-0622. fast growing co seeks individual who Fax resume Attn:MAS (212) 302-1856 is creative, detail oriented w/ strong Il- [email protected] 212-947-3400 PRODUCT MANAGER lustrator & Photoshop skills. Pls email 3-5 yrs Private Label experience. Must PATTERNS, SAMPLES, responses to:[email protected] be able to work independently, possess CAD DESIGNERS Patternmaker great follow through skills and be able PRODUCTIONS Assistant Designer New York’s premier Textile Design to coordinate between Customer, Full service shop to the trade. Dynamic Contemporary Sportswear Studio seeking CAD Designers to join DESIGNERS HEAD Design and Production. Must be famil- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Company seeks a talented assistant our dynamic, talented CAD group. * Dress. 550 7th Ave $100K iar w/ Global Sourcing and Production. designer. Candidate must be motivated, Ned Graphics experience required, * Sportswear/Jkt/Pants/Jeans $100K PATTERNMAKER Computer skills required. hard working and possess strong Yarn Dye experience a Plus. Looks Like Chico Well-established leading pant & skirt knowledge/background of garment EXCELLENT SALARY AND * Sweater Embellishment $100K mfr. seeks head patternmaker who can ASSOCIATE PRODUCT MANAGER construction with the ability to assist BENEFITS! [email protected] or 212-947-3400 take charge, be technical & work closely 1-2 yrs Private Label experience. Must in all phases of development. with designer, sample room & contractors. be a hard working individual, able to Please fax resume in confidence DESIGN assist in all aspects of product develop- Fax resume to: 212-391-2485 or email to Linda @ 212-594-1533 Experience in both import and domestic to: [email protected] production is a MUST. Excellent benefits. ment. Computer skills a must! Woven Designer Fax resumes to 212-268-4920 Please fax resume w/salary require- COLOR ASSOC. $30K Men’s Designer Label seeks a detailed or Email to: [email protected] ments to: (212) 302-1856 ATTN CJ Must Have Color Textile Knldg Designer to execute woven products Kwan 212-947-3400 Jessilyn from concept to final product. Excellent communication skills a must; thorough PRODUCTION JOBS ASSISTANT DESIGNER PATTERNMAKER * PRODUCTION MGR $80-125K Fast paced women’s private label knowledge of Illustrator and 3 years Seeking first patternmaker. Prefer design experience. Dynamic work envi- Runway Designer. Run 3 Factories sportswear company seeks a 3+ year children’s exp, 5+ yrs, Spanish a plus. Must Be Able to Cost Garments experienced, organized, detail oriented, Customer Service ronment; foreign travel experience a plus. E-mail resume with current salary SPEC TECH * PRODN ASST/COORD $35-75K and proficient in Illustrator - Photoshop- Strong Math/PC/Excel. Cut Tickets Excel team player to assist in all base to: [email protected] Seeking a spec tech with 5 years exp, Person knowledge specs, construction, fit Time ’n Action. Factory Exp A+ aspects of design. Please fax resume to: [email protected] or 212-947-3400 (212) 868 - 2801 Multi divisional dress manufacturer is evaluation and grading. Detail looking for a detail oriented, highly oriented, would prefer children’s exp. QUALITY CONTROL -- $70K motivated person needed to work with Flame Retardant Tech Resume & Salary Required. C/S Knits/Wovens a +. Strong garment one of our divisions to follow up with Exp’d in all of the FR processes for Fax 516-897-4851 construction. Knldg of patterns. Domestic. specialty stores. This includes calling Childrenswear. Ownership of all Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127(agcy) ASSISTANT DESIGNER for COD’s and prepayments, and mak- flammability testing, tracking and Leading better separates co. looking for ing sure goods are shipped and picked. record keeping is req’d. Must be This position will coordinate the sales familiar w/ CFR Title 16 Part 1615- Production Assistant RECEPTIONIST organized, motivated, creative firecracker Fast paced co. needs exp’d receptionist willing to do whatever it takes. Must people, the specialty stores, and the 1616. Ability to spec out garments and Nanette Lepore seeks indiv. with warehouse. Position is located in release comments to factories. Good knowledge of garment construction to handle heavy phone volume. Must have 2 yrs exp working with China, have good communication skills & drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical Kearny, New Jersey. analytical, organizational and follow- and specs. Needs computer skills. 2 Send resumes and salary req to: up skills needed. Fax resume w /salary yrs. exp. in fashion industry a must! knwldg of MS Outlook/Word. Send res: packages, EMB layouts. 212-398-4040 / [email protected] Fax resume to: 212-302-3872 / Natasha [email protected] req: Attn: Bob at 212-842-4032 EOE Fax resume: 212 947 5651 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 11, 2006 15 WWD.COM Bravo’s New Style Sexy Sunwear Marks Pout’s 5th Year NEW YORK — Move over Jonathan Antin. There’s another Hollywood hairstylist LONDON — Pout founders Emily Cohen, ly sexy,” she said. So the fi ve-unit collection Renfrew in May and then be rolled out on Bravo’s radar. Bravo, home to Antin’s Chantal Laren and Anna Singh are pre- is presented in bronze-colored packaging internationally in June. A limited-edition reality TV show “Blow Out,” will air a paring to blow out the fi ve candles on adorned with a fl oral print. Formulations gift set comprising the fi ve products will one-hour special, called “Salon Diaries,” their brand’s birthday cake. are scented with Monoi oil from Tahiti. bow in June priced at $100. which shadows Brandon Martinez, the The trio behind the British indie The line comprises Firming Shimmer Pout is supporting its bust-enhancing brash attention-seeker whom Antin fi red makeup line is celebrating the anniver- Sunscreen SPF 20, which initially will be cream, Pout Bustier, with marketing initia- in season one of “Blow Out.” sary of its 2001 launch with marketing available just in the U.K.; Ultimate Fake tives. The product will go on sale aboard “Salon Diaries,” a coproduction between initiatives and product launches, includ- Tan, billed to give an instant tint and a Virgin Atlantic fl ights starting in May and Reveille and Bravo, chronicles Martinez ing the introduction of Sexy Sunwear, the gradually developing glow, and Instant will pair with Wonderbra in the U.K. this as he begins a career at the new Warren- brand’s fi rst foray into sun care. Shimmer Tan. For the face, there’s Super month. Customers buying a Wonderbra Tricomi Salon in Los Angeles. The show “It’s really signifi cant for us to be cel- Balm, a shimmering moisturizer for the will be offered a sample of the cream. will follow the self-proclaimed “bad boy” as ebrating our fi fth birthday,” said Cohen, face and lips, and Palm Beach Compact, a “Wonderbra is a widely available brand he tries to impress his new bosses, Edward adding that the com- set containing two and is very relevant to us,” Cohen said. Tricomi and Joel Warren, and as the salon pany has faced the lip polishes and Pout is also upping its distribution. It owners prepare for an Oscar week event. challenge of compet- two blush shades, recently widened its reach in the U.S. by In February, Martinez was spotted here ing with major corpo- BEAUTY BEAT which, in the U.S., opening in 13 Nordstrom doors. “It’s a major in Warren-Tricomi’s 57th Street salon, rations with huge ad- will be exclusive to launch for us,” said Cohen. “Nordstrom is a trailed by camera crews. Away from the vertising budgets. “To be positioned with Sephora. Prices range from $15 for a 6-gram really high-profi le retailer.” cameras, several Warren-Tricomi stylists big companies owned by the likes of Estée jar of Super Balm to $28 for a Palm Beach In the U.K., Pout is introducing its Pout grumbled about the Hollywood invasion, Lauder and LVMH and to be dancing along compact. Plump lip-plumping line and Pout Bustier particularly those in the path of the hulk- with the big boys after such a short period Industry sources estimate Sexy in Urban Outfi tters stores. Pout’s U.K. ing cameramen. At the time, patrons were of time has been a big challenge for us.” Sunwear, which will bow internationally Web site, which began e-tailing last year, asked to sign waivers stipulating they Industry sources estimate Pout rang in May, will generate 3 million pounds, or now clocks 6,000 visitors per day. Also in agreed to appear on camera, but were not up more than $10 million in wholesale $5.3 million at current exchange, in retail the pipeline is a body care line, set to be told which network they might appear on. volume in 2005. sales in its fi rst year. launched in late February 2007, and more “Salon Diaries” is scheduled to premiere Among festivities planned to mark the Another party favor will be an in- freestanding stores, which could be rolled May 9 at 9 p.m., occupying the same time anniversary will be the launch of Sexy store marketing campaign dubbed “Five out in a handful of cities in the next few slot of “Blow Out,” which will wrap up its Sunwear. “We like to do things in a dif- Minutes to Fabulous,” fi ve-minute make- years, according to Cohen. third season May 2. ferent way, and it’s unusual to see a color overs using five Pout products: Pout “We started up fi ve years ago with a As for whether this special will turn cosmetics brand do sun products,” Cohen Plump, Pout Illuminator, Pout Flush fl agship in Covent Garden,” she said. “Now into a series, Bravo’s senior vice president said. Blush, Pout Eyeslick and Pout Mascara. we have over 300 [wholesale] accounts of programming and production, Frances The idea was to put Pout’s stamp on a “It’s glamour on the go, which is what worldwide, over 200 stockkeeping units Berwick, said, “It’s always our hope that new category. “There are no sun-care prod- we’re all about.” Cohen said. and a lot of other things in the works.” we’ll bring back the personality.” ucts out there that look really girly and real- The concept will debut in Holt — Brid Costello — Molly Prior

ACCOUNT MANAGER...... 70 -90 K RECEPTIONIST/OFFICE ASST. Technical Wal-Mart sales , planning budgeting Leading handbag mfr seeks bright Associate Designer Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 energetic individual to manage front Jennifer @srisearch.com desk & clerical duties for busy showroom. Must be detail-oriented and able to work in fast paced environment. Computer skills required. Danskin, Inc., a well est. active apparel co. Trimmings & Ribbons Fax resume to: 212-679-0311 seeks a seasoned pro to effectively liaise w/design & merchandising teams, Mfr seeks experienced and motivated & off shore factories, develop technical FASHIONHAUS Sales Rep w/ knowledge of industry. pckgs from initial stages thru production, Strong following a must. All territories Sales Assistant Leading International Designer Show- open except NY & LA. For details visit Russell Newman & conduct fittings. Must have 3-5 yrs room is looking for Sales Manager and activewear/knitwear exp, good communi- our website www.shindo.com Est’d Sleepwear Co seeks Sales Asst Public Relations / Sales Executive. Call 212-868-9311 Hiro/Steve who is highly organized, detail orient- cation skills in both written form & SALES MANAGER ed; must be able to multi task. Ideal technical sketches, understand garment Candidates must possess a minimum candidate will be outgoing and eager construction & has a working knowledge ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE of 3 to 5 years experience in wholesale Vice President of Sales to learn. Excel & Illustrator savvy pre- of garment Mfg. & patternmaking, strong (Position based in NY) sales or retail buying office of luxury Private Label Knitwear and Garment ferred. Fax resume to: Jennifer 212- computer skills & the ability to conduct fashion brand or designer collection. 213-9345 www.russellnewman.com live fittings . Competitive comp & bnfts Mfr. 40 year old Vertical HK & China pkg. Send resumes to: Prestigious and growing Outerwear Company PUBLIC RELATIONS and Factory seeks Highly Motivated and [email protected] or SALES EXECUTIVE Energetic Sales Leader. Min 8 years SAMPLEMAKER Fax to 212-930-9103. EOE/M/F/V seeks a strong sales professional to join our Candidates must possess excellent com- Experience & Strong Relationships w/ Eveningwear/Bridal company is looking munication skills and a minimum of 2 Major Retailers and Wholesalers. for samplemakers. Min. 10 years exp. Ladies team. Energetic and highly motivated can- years public relations/sales experience. Salary + Commission + Benefits Please fax your resume: 212.629.3004 didates must have Department store and better E-mail resumes attention Jane Park at: E-mail resume to: TECHNICAL DESIGN [email protected] [email protected] Sourcing Director (Suffolk County, Est’d Importer of knits wovens needs specialty store experience. Candidate must be NY) Identify/plan/direct all global indiv w/strong Photoshop & Illustrator Sales $150-175K base +++ current exp sourcing activities for apparel or skills - specs-grading- follow through proficient in Excel, & strong presentation skills, in brandedJR sportswear or dresses outerwear. Devlp plans for new prod- overseas - samples - production - track- selling to department stores. Well ucts. Req.: MA in Bus. & 3 yr exp. OR ing. Strong computer skills-Excel- mul- effective communication skills and excellent ana- known brand. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY BA in Bus. & 5 yr post-BA & progres- ti tasks. Great work environ. Fax 212- lytical and retail math knowledge. Private label sive exp. Resume to: Bruce Lerit, Da- 354-8809 Email: [email protected] vid Peyser Sportswear, 90 Spence Store Manager Street, Bay Shore, NY 11706 experience is a plus. Dynamic Retail Professional needed for fast paced, well established store which TECHNICAL features unique product mix & upscale Sterling Executive Search Fax resume to 212/575-4717 Sales Assistant clientele. Must have 5 years Retail and seeks for Manhattan office: ILLUSTRATOR Leading childrenswear mfr is looking 3 years Managerial experience. Lingerie Fast paced sportswear company seeks email to [email protected] for a professional Sales Asst to work & swimwear knowledge is a plus. Must Research Associate a Technical Illustrator with 2-3 years for the Account Executive in the daily have exceptional people skills at the Establish target company lists, pre- experience to work in busy design execution of duties including audit & customer & staff levels. Ability to manage screen candidates, organize interviews, dept. Must know Photoshop, Adobe control and shipping and distribution 20+ employees is key. Comprehensive admin. reports. Illustrator and CAD. Must have knowl- of merchandise. Retail exp a plus. package. Fax or E-mail all resumes to: edge of garment construction and Must be proficient in all admin duties 212-787-9358 / [email protected] Executive Assistant details. Must be detail oriented, Immediate Need for Qualified Candidates incl. excellent written & verbal Operational running of office, assis- organized and able to work in a team communication and Microsoft Word & tance to consultants, light accounting. oriented environment. MID-ATLANTIC REGIONAL SALES LEADER Excel. Excellent salary & benefits. Email 2-3 yrs exp., knowledge of French / Please fax resume to: resume to: [email protected] or Italian, interest in fashion / luxury (212) 302-1980 fax: 212-947-2039. No calls please. EOE goods, team spirit, initiative. Well-est’d high-end women’s apparel co. is looking for highly qualified Please send resume & salary details to: candidates for the position of Mid - Atlantic Regional Sales Leader. The SALES PROFESSIONAL [email protected] Contemporary sportswear co. seeks Whse-Data Processing position requires strong leadership, sales management and marketing skills. dynamic sales professional with min. Fashion co. seeks exp’d indiv. to process 5 yrs exp. in dealing with better dept. Tech Design / QC EDI, enter & modify orders, invoicing & Responsibilities include: and specialty stores. Please send Womens/Girls Swimwear Imptr. seeks processing of returns. Assist in picking, resume to: Fax: (212) 354-6052 or individual to track & review samples, packing & shipping. Coordinating and leading a Sales Mgmt Team in the recruitment, training, E-mail: [email protected] attend fittings Daily comm. overseas. 30K Fax resume w/ cov. letter (212) 398-9695 and performance management of District Sales Teams. Compensation Email resume: [email protected] SALES PRO WANTED includes excellent salary, bonus opportunity and full company benefits. Great Opportunity for Jr. Missy’s & Plus skirts & pants & tops Please fax resume to Ellyn Cooley @ (828) 286-4628 Fax Resume to: 212-214-0788 Leather Handbags SALES AGENTS Special Size Indian supplier of leather garments, bags & accessories seeks Sales Agents Sales Executive for procuring business from reputed Sunny Leigh, is expanding their special American brands, store chains etc. size business & if you are a self motivator E-MAIL: Mr. Narinder Singh @ w/a minimum of 5 yrs exp. in the special size market w/major department stores [email protected] we want you!! This is a great opportunity. CALL: +91-9811024591 or FAX: +91-11-41610801/02 Email: [email protected] Excellent Growth Opportunities! Fax: 212-302-3872 Visit us at: www.punihani.com Embroidered blazer and skirt by Joanna Mastroianni. Fabric by Cotton. www.cottoninc.com

luxurious 06. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 Service Mark/Trademark ® Registered COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S