32 Spring 2003 Bottles and Extras Ginger Ale’s Irish Roots by Ken Previtali

Ginger ale was the No. 1 soft bottlers employed capsicum to avoid the ale is a work of art. Some current offerings drink in America for over seventy years, expense of ginger. Here are the results of contain upwards of 400 ingredients, most beginning its vast popularity around 1860. such practices. as described by J.T. of which make their appearnce under the In fact, the U.S. soft, drink industry really Norman, an English competition judge, in heading of natural flavorings. Early ginger began in earnest with this flavor, and the 1896: " . ..ginger ales should not be hot ales contained extract of ginger and manufacture of a quality ginger ale was lemonades heavily doused with capsicum; essences of lemon, rose and ginger oil. the measure of a bottler's whole line. By the chief palate characteristic should be a Reputable bottlers used just a trace of 1893, the importance of ginger ale in the clean pure ginger flavor, not attained with capsicum. Depending on local tastes, some beverage industry was unquestionable and capsicum. In competition, beverages formulas also included various fruit W.B. Keller (editor of National Bottlers which erred on the side of fiery flavor were essences and spice tinctures. The Irish Gazette) made this remark: ". . .it should relegated to their proper position, near the "Belfast" types possessed a fine aroma, be the aim of every bottler to bring its bottom." which Americans tried to copy with varied brand of ginger ale to the highest possible Quality Flavor: success. Belfast flavorings included ginger perfection, since a bottler's products are An Elusive Achievement root, orange peel, nutmeg, vanilla, often judged for better or worse by the Ginger ale making was cinnamon and sometimes capsicum. merit or lack of merit possessed by its considered an art. I think it would not be Eloquent descriptions bY the ginger ale." amiss to say that even today, a good ginger writers during the period 1880-1930 Ginger Ale's Irish Roots suggest that ginger ale flavor was revered, The best informed historians like that of fine wine. Discussions of attribute the invention of ginger ale to the imported vs. American, pale dry vs. Irish in the 1850s. However, as with most golden, and aromatic vs. fruity were of history, there is another point of view: common among both consumers and Robert Robinson of New York City bottlers. However, it was generally agreed claimed he was the first one to make ginger that crisp flavor, brilliant clarity and ale in the U.S. in the 1840s, calling it appropriate pungency were paramount to ginger soda. By all accounts it was more success. In any case, creating quality like the "gingerades" being made in ginger ale was difficult and few mastered England at that time, rather than the the skill. ginger ale "flavor" produced in Ireland. The early years of ginger ale were Nobody really knows, but it is likely that tumultuous times, full of battles over Dr. Cantrell in Belfast was the first bottles, import duties on foreign ginger inventor of ginger ale- perhaps with ales, exploding bottles, sanitation Grattan & Company, also of Belfast as a problems, inconsistent flavor sources, party to the earliest production of the fountain equipment miseries, and delivery beverage. Grattan proudly claimed the troubles. (Remember, these were the horse rights by embossing a slogan on its bottles: and buggy days, and when loaded with "The Original Makers of Ginger Ale." crates of filled bottles, delivery wagons Possible, but not provable. often met with roadside disasters.) Yet Original Flavor Decidedly Different ginger ale survives today as a steady seller Early ginger ales would not be in national and regional markets, a recognizable to modem palates. By most remarkable feat when you consider the descriptions, few bottlers made ginger ale number of flavors that never made it at worth drinking by today's standards. Even all. in 1888, Charles Sulz, a highly respected The article first appeared master chemist of the early beverage trade, BEVERAGE WORLD Magazine (formerly said "...it is an unfortunate fact that a great National Bottler's Gazette) in June 1991 deal of American ginger ale is 'miserable and is reprinted with permission of the stuff,' in many instances nothing more author. than sweetened water." (American ginger ales did evolve well beyond that About the Author: description but it took many years to Ken Previtali has been collecting accomplish.) ginger ale history and bottles for fifteen The most common sin was the years. He and his 900 ginger ale bottles overuse of capsicum (hot red pepper) to live in Danbury, CT. achieve the "bite" that the right amount of genuine ginger provided. We can Photo: From the collection of Kathy Hopson. assume that the cheaper, lower quality Early Vernor’s Ginger Ale embossed bottle.