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The Nature of North Head: A naturalist’s guide. Second edition, free version with low resolution graphics Peter Macinnis Publication data Author: Macinnis P. (Peter) (1944 –). Title: The Nature of North Head: a naturalist’s guide. ASIN: B08HWJ557L Notes: Written explicitly as an e-book. Contains internal navigation and external links, which will not work in a print version. Contains illustrations. Target audience: curious Australian minds from mid-teens to mid-90s. Subjects: Australia, biology, geology, animals, plants. Copyright: photographs © Peter Macinnis, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International, 2020; all line art public domain. Thise needing copies of the photos need to contact the author to get better copies. All quotations are from public domain sources. Cover illustration: South Head from the Third Quarantine Cemetery. Peter Macinnis, 2020. Title page illustration: Helichrysum sp., Peter Macinnis, 2020. Dedication: For Christine, ever patient in reading and advising. A North Head companion These are my personal thoughts and footnotes, circling around a lovely place, North Head, at the entrance to Sydney Harbour. Less than 10 km from the central business district of a city of 5 million people, we have an island of wilderness with animals and plants that reflect what the area was before my mob invaded it in 1788. You can find a free web version of this e-book online, simply by using a secure tinyurl for the starter page: https://preview.tinyurl.com/nheadnat, or a less secure version: https://tinyurl.com/nheadnat. You can also get it directly at http://members.ozemail.com.au/~macinnis/nhead/index.htm. Rationale for this e-book version I work on North Head as a volunteer, doing weeding, planting and other stuff to help maintain a fragile system, but I am also a lifelong educator, and wearing that hat, I decided to generate the web site referred to above, and host it myself. It was to show the casual visitor just how much more was available to be seen. Because I always travel with at least one camera, the web site was soon bloated with pics, so during one of our escape-from- lockdown rambles, I decided to do an e-book version that people can carry around. I have also added a great deal of extra information, even more images, and some internal navigation in the form of jump links. I am distributing this version on the Kindle system, and Amazon wants money. There used to be a time when Amazon allowed some free e-books, but that is no more. I have gone for the lowest possible price, and blocked Digital Rights Management, so once you have bought one copy, you can share it, free of charge. I am a professional writer, but this is not a money-making exercise. Think of this as an obligate naturalist, trotting along beside you, prattling away, darting sideways for a prize, but unlike the real me, totally stoppable. You will also find all of the technical terms you need to look things up, but there’s no examination, so ignore them until you need them. We make three special requests to visitors: Please leave your dogs and cats at home; Please stay on the tracks; and Please don’t pick the flowers. All of these requests are there for good reasons. The North Head area is a sanctuary, and we need to protect rare plants and small animals. That aside, we have paralysis ticks, fox baits and fox traps, so your pet would be at risk, as would our plants and animals, because the average pet’s deposit of pee or poo probably contains as much nitrate and phosphate as 100 square metres of our sandy soil, giving weeds an entry point. That aside, there are also HUGE fines for bringing pets in. Staying on the tracks is to protect the animals and the plants, and to protect the soil from erosion. We don’t need new tracks, because we do need our sandy soil to stay put. Some of our plants are rare and endangered, but even picking a posy of weeds can cost you a hefty fine. This is because we need to preserve a critically endangered habitat, so please just take photos! If you see people in light blue shirts, cutting out plants, those will be trained staff, targeting weeds. If you think you see a weed, please report it, don’t pull it! The main thing is to take your time, stop and examine, and enjoy. You need a slow stroll, and a quiet, keen eye to spot the small things. Contents Getting to North Head Some North Head history The North Head environment Walks around North Head North Head animals with bones North Head animals without bones The plants of North Head Notes about North Head and some afterthoughts References, footnotes, sources and things to read Introduction The writer is mainly known for writing books, usually about science, technology, mathematics or Australian history or some mix of those, but for about 70 years, I have been visiting North Head, and for the past eight years or so, I have been working there as a volunteer, doing things. During 2020, in the lockdown, I have put in 1½ to 2 hours wandering each day, noticing the changes. You may even have seen me: that’s me below. Anyhow, this is how I know that tourists often miss the best sights, flowers and wildlife. This personal and unauthorised collection is designed to offer a proper taste of what is there. You don’t need to go off the beaten track (and because we have ticks, venomous spiders and snakes, this may not be a good idea!), but you may need help to find some of the lesser-known beaten tracks, and some of the less obvious plants, animals and rocks. Think of this as basically a study of what goes on in a small wild refuge, close to the heart of a city of 5 million people. It’s personal, so you’ll keep running into stuff about my favourite curiosities, like the spiders, the echidnas, the ant lions. Switch off, if you like… Acknowledgements While I have been encouraged and aided by (in alphabetical order) Ian Evans, Toni Stevenson and Jenny Wilson, any blame goes to Peter Macinnis. Refreshments, help and things You can get food and drink in Manly, at kiosks at Little Manly and Shelly Beach. On North Head, there is food and drink to be had at Bella Vista (east of the Third Cemetery), and at the Q Station. Water is available in some places like the information centre (see below). Some of our water is recycled or rain water: check for warning signs first! It is a good idea to travel with a couple of litres of water. Maps are available in certain locations, including a post on the Scenic Drive, and at the black obelisk where the Ferny track begins. You can also get information on weekends from Bandicoot Heaven (closed during pandemic restrictions, but also near the start of the Ferny track), and at the main information centre (above, also closed) near North Fort. If you look carefully at some of the photos, you can see one of the volunteers in a distinctive sky-blue shirts. (In cold or wet weather, their clothing usually says “Sydney Harbour Federation Trust”, when they are on official duty.) These people are eminently approachable, once we get going again in the post-pandemic world. Back to the contents Getting to North Head Walk 1, part 1: along the Corso to Shelly Beach Walk 2: Going up Darley Road Walk 3: through Little Manly and Collins Flat Driving and biking You can choose between catching a 135 bus from Manly Wharf (or even from Warringah Mall), driving, cycling or walking, and there are three walking routes. The 135 bus leaves once an hour from Stand D, across the road from the ferry wharf in Manly (see pic above). As you walk off the ferry wharf, veer slightly left, past a metallic sculpture resembling a cowpat (below), and cross at the lights. You have reached the bus stop. The cowpat used to have a fine mist of water coming out, hence the local name, “Steaming Great Turd” (or SGT). If you hear somebody saying this, they are probably not insulting or threatening you. If you are driving, follow the walking instructions for the Darley Road route. Most healthy people can walk, one way or another, and as mentioned, there are three main walking routes, but Darley Road is the only one suited to cars or bicycles. Walk 1, part 1: along the Corso to Shelly Beach This is written mainly for people travelling by public transport and wanting to stretch their legs and see some pleasant views. You walk out of the ferry wharf (or alight from a bus) and head directly away from the ferry wharf, to the right of the SGT (node a in the map above), down the main street, known as the Corso, until you reach the ocean beach, called either Manly Beach, or more correctly, “South Steyne”, a name it was given in the 1850s, when a wannabe rich man saw Manly as “the new Brighton”. You can still see a hotel of that name on the Corso, but the sand on our New Brighton is much better, and also deeper than the “sand” at the old Brighton in England, which is made of cobbles. The hotel would be on the left, if you were the photographer in the photo above. If you stop at this establishment, the balcony on the first floor offers a good view of the surf beach, and you may meet a Council official there, whose task is to supervise the waves, because if somebody doesn’t keep an eye on them, the waves will start running out to sea, carting some of our unwary tourists off to New Zealand.