PASTRY & BAKING

NORTH AMERICA NORTH AMERICA

Volume 2 Issue 3 2008 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 3 2008

Leslie Mackie – Macrina Bakery Pastry Cup Qualifier Three Color Cigarettes

WWW.P ASTRY NA.COM

Letter From The Editor

Challenges Ahead

1. Lock in client loyalty. Remember, you aren’t the only one facing economic hard times. What can you do to serve your best clients? Call and ask!

2. Make time for Face Time. It’s easy to slip into the habit of staying in the kitchen and doing business by phone and email. Visit the front of the house and visit with guests. Listen for opportunities where you can offer a solution for their problems.

3. See a Need and Fill It. When global economies are hurting, sometimes luxuries are the first to go. However, if there’s a need, there’s usually money to pay for a solution. Can you create products or add-on items that fill a need?

4. Create package options. In hearty economic times, there’s more to go around. When companies face downturns, slashing expenses is one of the first things companies do. To stand out from others, create package deals that offer lots of value-add for the dollar. This way you will stand out as a good deal.

5. Do more for less. The financial news is grim, but there are opportunities We aren’t talking about giving away the farm. We are talking for those in foodservice that keep their eye on the prize about doing just slightly more for the same amount. If you and are able to adapt and reposition there would normally tack on fees for an item, throw it in for free. service/business/skills. Gifting ignites the law of reciprocity and loyalty follows. Let’s face it, pralines, , chocolate pots de 6. Implement systems and marketing campaigns. créme, lavish wedding and gluten free epis aren’t Businesses that take a proactive approach will feel less blind- exactly stables for the man on the street. And with sided. Create your plan now and implement it. And whatever every passing day bringing more dismal news on the you do, don’t cut back on sales and marketing initiatives! economic front, most people agree the remainder of 2008 will be a challenging year for foodservice, especially pastry and baking. The conventional wisdom holds that the affluent Being proactive today will pay dividends tomorrow. market is unaffected by the economic ups and downs that hurt the middle-income consumer.† But today the affluent consumer market is far more diverse and Regards, stratified than it historically ever has been and the best way to protect your sales and customer base is to be Joseph Marcionette proactive. Consider the following strategies whether you’re a shop owner, restaurant employee, hotel chef Editor-in-Chief or wholesale baker: Email: [email protected]

2 Pastry & Baking North America

astry&bakin P NORTH AMERICA g House Specials

10 10 6 Off The Wire Asian The latest news, happenings, Pastry Cup events and product updates for Once again Team Singapore the well informed professional. captured the Asian Pastry Cup and is headed to compete with the rest of the world in Lyon. 18 Regional Showcase Join P&B NA on a tour of North America and beyond as we 46 46 visit with and showcase talented Chef in Focus professionals who share their As chef/owner of Macrina Bakery, favorite recipes. the place where Seattlites congregate for fresh baked goodness, Leslie Mackie is tasked daily with living up to her James 36 Beard nominations, widely Sugar Arts acclaimed cookbooks and her The incomparable Ewald Notter global reputation as a true artisan. provides step-by-step instruction and insight into his passion and craft. 58 58 Chocolate Love 62 World renowned pastry chef and Wild Sweets chocolatier extraordinaire The Dubys dazzle with their leading Norman Love presents step by step edge approach to innovative instruction for three color cigarettes. creations.

4 Pastry & Baking North America astry&bakin P NORTH AMERICA g

Published by Synergy1 Group, Inc.

PUBLISHER Synergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

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Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 3. All rights reserved. © under Universal International and Pan American Copyright conventions. This publication is a creative work fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition and other applicable laws. Off The Wire

News, events and happenings from around the region

TEAM USA DAZZLES CHICAGO Top US pastry chefs demonstrate technical and culinary skills At invitation-only event in Chicago

Valrhona and the Coupe de Monde de la Pâtisserie, aka, the World Pastry Cup, introduced the members of TEAM USA at a private reception that took place Monday, May 19th at the Sofitel Chicago Water Tower. Over 100 guests made up of industry professionals, pastry chefs, chocolatiers and the media learned more about TEAM USA’s training process, tasted a variety of plated desserts and chocolate confections and watched the team put the finishing touches on two intricate showpieces made of sugar and chocolate. TEAM USA’s members are: Team Captain David Ramirez, Executive Pastry Chef at The Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando, FL; Rémy Fünfrock, Executive Restaurant Pastry Chef at The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, CO; Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef at The Phoenician, Scottsdale, AZ; and Team Alternate Jim Mullaney, Executive Chef at The Cloisters Hotel, Sea Island, GA. TEAM USA president is pastry consultant, En-Ming Hsu.

6 Pastry & Baking North America 7 Off The Wire

The team has been meeting for monthly training sessions at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD since being selected in fall 2007. The reception was the first opportunity for the chefs to present to an audience of industry professionals examples of the showpiece techniques and types of desserts that they hope will impress the World Pastry Cup judges and capture the gold in 2009. Coached by En-Ming Hsu and with the skilled help of advisors Derek Poirier, Corporate Pastry Chef for Valrhona USA and pastry chef and instructor Sylvain Leroy, Captain Ramirez and his team, in a matter of hours, created two showpieces and prepared two desserts: Kalamansi and Coconut Verrine and Nola, Valrhona Caraïbe Chocolate Passion Fruit , the winner of the award for ‘Best ’ at the 2007 World Pastry Cup. Guests included chocolatiers Michael Recchiuti of San ‘The chefs have been working non-stop and Chicago was a great Francisco’s Recchiuti Confections and Dylan Bigelow of city to showcase their talents and the impressive pieces they have Seattle’s Fran’s Chocolates; Chicago pastry chefs Andrés Lara been working on,’ said TEAM USA Captain Hsu. The event was of NoMI restaurant at the Park Hyatt and Kate Milahus of enthusiastically received by guests who gave the chefs encouragement Room 21, along with industry veterans such as Matt Nielsen and renewed enthusiasm for the upcoming months of grueling of Nielsen-Massey Vanilla. Media covering the event included training leading up to the competition in Lyon in January 2009. Terry Chicago’s NBC 5 WMAQ-TV ‘News at 6’, Food Arts, Chef, Boyd, Blue Kitchen blogger, wrote, ‘So what are Team USA’s prospects PLATE magazine and food bloggers Pro Bono Baker, Blue for winning this year? Well, if the Chocolate Passion Fruit Cake we Kitchen and Leite’s Culinaria. sampled is any indication, I’d say they’re pretty delicious — er, good.’

8 Pastry & Baking North America Off The Wire

Specialty Breads, Viennoiserie, and Artistic Design. The Bread Bakers Guild Team competition takes place over the course of three days, with four USA 2008 Ranks 4th in teams competing each day. A committee of judges then ranks The World each team based on overall performance. The purpose of the competition is to gather artisan bakers US bakers foster goodwill, from around the world to celebrate their profession, share promote baking education knowledge of artisan baking techniques, and reinstate the value and showcase baking and restore the image of the artisan baking professional. For more information on Bread Bakers Guild Team USA visit ability. www.bbga.org. The Bread Bakers Guild of America is a non-profit alliance Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 of professional bakers, farmers, millers, suppliers, educators, competed against the best bakers in students, home bakers, technical experts, and bakery owners the world during the Coupe du and managers. It was formed in 1993 to shape the skills and Monde de la Boulangerie. Solveig knowledge of the artisan baking community through education. Tofte, head baker at Turtle Bread For more information, contact The Guild office at 412.434.0208 Company in Minneapolis, MN or [email protected]. represented the US in the Baguette and Specialty Bread Category; Dara Reimers, an aspiring bakery owner from Auburn, ME in the Artistic Design Category; and Peter Yuen, owner of La Patisserie P in Chicago, IL in the Viennoiserie Category. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 placed fourth in the competition. Yuen also ranked individually, placing in the top four within the Viennoiserie category. The Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie is an international artisan bread baking competition held every three years in Paris, . Also known as the World Cup or Olympics of Baking, the Coupe du Monde takes place at Europain — the world bakery, patisserie and catering exhibition in Paris. Each team consists of three members representing the best artisan bakers from the 12 countries who qualified to compete. Teams are given eight hours to produce a specific number of baked goods for each of the three categories: Baguette and

Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2008 Results

1st FRANCE 607. 92 POINTS 2nd TAIWAN 579. 49 POINTS 3rd 578. 77 POINTS 4th USA 578. 31 POINTS 5th THE 551. 89 POINTS 6th 532. 83 POINTS 7th POLAND 513. 84 POINTS 8th 511. 31 POINTS 9th SWEDEN 488. 46 POINTS 10th ARGENTINA 487. 53 POINTS 11th TURKEY 472. 02 POINTS 12th MEXICO 465. 47 POINTS

10 Pastry & Baking North America WOW! Factor Desserts Adds to Individuals Lineup Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA — WOW! Factor Desserts — a leading producer of high quality frozen desserts ñintroduced 3 new products today. The new products are individual serving desserts targeted to the foodservice industry. “These new products compliment our robust line of individual serving products,” said Bryan Yaakov, President of WOW! Factor Desserts. “These products make it easy for any foodservice operator to serve high quality, unique desserts without needing additional kitchen staff to handle the preparation, this allows the operator to maintain profitable cost structures and add to their bottom line.” Among the fantastic new individual desserts introduced by WOW! Factor Desserts are: the Chocolate Port Pedestal, Chocolate Brûlée Tulip and the Vanilla Berry Mousse. Full details on the new product line can be found on the WOW! Factor Desserts web site at www.wowfactordesserts.com. WOW! Factor Desserts are available throughout North America through leading distributors, for more information call 1-800-604-CAKE. Factor Desserts is a leading supplier of frozen dessert products. Our goal is to provide our clients with the highest quality products that allow them to increase their business profitability through increased sales and return visits!

Best chocolate book in the world! On April 13th, 2008, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards gave prizes for the best new gastronomic publications from 90 countries. The book “Ramon Morató Chocolate”, written by renowned pastry chef, Ramon Morató, and published by Grupo Vilbo, had the great honor of receiving the award for Best Chocolate Book in the World 2007. With it’s in-depth treatment of the technical and practical issues associated with chocolate, this book has become a must-have for chocolatiers and pastry chefs alike. It has over 600 pages containing 230 recipes and an abundance of step-by-step photos and techniques. Chef Ramon’s book is presented in a bilingual, Spanish-English edition and is available around the world. This year Chef Ramon will travel with the Aula Chocovic team and the Export Department of Chocovic to China (Shanghai and Hangzhou) and the United States (Los Angeles, San Francisco and Las Vegas) to lead seminars on the chocolatier art. Chef Ramon humbly says this award is not just for the author, but for the entire team that helped make this project possible: the graphic design of Xavi Vila, the photos of Francesc Guillamet, the team at Aula Chocovic and the support of the publisher Grupo Vilbo. Off The Wire

International Confectionary Paris Plaza Athénée Hotel under the supervision of Christophe Art Competition A Re al Michalak. Second prize went to the mixed pair from Japan composed Success! of Mr Shigeru Hosaka and Mrs Miya Fujimoto, both from the The very first edition of the Mondial des Arts Sucrés was really Grand Hyatt in Tokyo. Coming in Third was the team from held during Europain 2008 trade fair in Paris. Russia who took advantage of a technical failure by the friendly During the three days of this confectionary art marathon, Canadian team. whose rules and guidelines were devised by DGF chefs, mixed With the strict oversight of Head Judge Pascal Niau (MOF teams from all over the world competed by putting forward Pastry) along with the assistance of judges Angelo Musa (MOF dessert tasting, chocolate bouchÈes, entremets, desserts, petit Pastry and World Pastry Champion 2003) and Philippe Rigollot fours and impressive masterpieces made of sugar, chocolate (MOF Pastry and World Pastry Champion 2005) the competition and pastillage. sought out the best and brightest and served as a platform to put At the end of this relentless battle, the French team forth a new, mixed team format. composed of Jérôme De Oliveira and Alice Bardais won the Look forward to the second installation of Mondial Des Arts first prize. Both of these young chefs work at the prestigious Sucres at Europain 2010.

12 Pastry & Baking North America Extension of Dobla’s Chefs Collection At the end of last year, Dobla introduced the new line known as the Chef’s Collection developed in collaboration with some of the world’s top pastry chefs. With that introduction, Dobla promised to surprise dessert professionals frequently with new shapes and concepts. That’s why Dobla is proud to present to you the following products.

These products will make it possible for you to present your clients with the most exclusive creations in a cost effective manner that will enhance the bottom line and the dining experience of your guests. Like all Dobla decorations, these new additions to the Chef’s Collection are made with only the very finest chocolate. Off The Wire

pastryscoop.com Announces The Winners Of The 2008 Golden Scoop Awards!

New York, NY. June 24, 2008 — PastryScoop.com is proud to 2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARD WINNERS: announce the winners of the 2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARDS, which celebrate excellence, innovation, and creativity in the Best Dessert Menu pastry arts. The awards were presented by Judiaann Woo, editor- DESSERT MENU in-chief of PastryScoop.com, along with Dominique Ansel, Raphael Haasz, Executive Pastry Chef Café Boulud executive pastry chef of Daniel (New York City) and 2007 Best 20 East 76th Street Dessert Menu winner, before an audience of pastry chefs, media, New York, NY 10021 and industry professionals at The French Culinary Institute in (212) 772-2600 New York City on June 23rd. www.danielnyc.com/cafeboulud Grand Marnier Most Innovative Dessert PASSION FRUIT “TART”, SESAME, ARGAN OIL, Alex Stupak, Pastry Chef fwd~50 50 Clinton Steet New York, NY 10002 (212) 477-2900 www.wd-50.com Best Dessert Revival RHUBARB CRUMBLE The awards ceremony began with a panel discussion — PASTRY Catrine Oscarson, Pastry Chef CHEFS AS AUTHORS: The Rise in Popularity of the Dessert Mas (farmhouse) Cookbook — hosted by Michael Batterberry, founding editor 39 Downing Street and publisher of Food Arts, with pastry chefs Karen DeMasco New York, NY 10014 (212) 255-1790 (formerly of Craft and Craftbar), Pichet Ong (P*ONG), Jacques www.masfarmhouse.com Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolate), and Kate Zuckerman (Chanterelle). As the winners were announced, they were awarded Best Confection engraved sterling silver champagne buckets, gifts from the awards PRETZEL-COVERED SEA SALTED CARAMEL sponsors, and a $1,000 cash prize. The chefs and their winning Rachel Zoe Insler, Chocolatier/Owner desserts will also be featured on PastryScoop.com and in Food Bespoke Chocolates Arts magazine. New York, NY The 2008 Golden Scoop Awards were open to all pastry and [email protected] baking professionals. A team of pastry chefs and food industry www.bespokechocolates.com professionals reviewed over one hundred submissions to select finalists in each of the five award categories. The top scoring Best Bakery Recipe contenders in each category were invited to New York to present PANE SETTE GRANI their creations to the judging panel which consisted of Cristóbal Julio Guarchaj, Head Baker Grandaisy Bakery Dominique Ansel, executive pastry chef, Daniel; Tina Casaceli, 73 Sullivan Street director of pastry and bread arts, The French Culinary Institute; New York, NY 10012 Gabriella Gershenson, Eat Out editor, Time Out New York; and (212) 334-9435 Gary Tucker, senior editor, Food Arts. www.grandaisybakery.com

9 Regional Showcase 14 Pastry & Baking North America January 25th - 26th 2009 Eurexpo Lyon, France

In 2009, the 11th Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie will bring together international teams of brilliantly talented pastry chefs for a thrilling competition of culinary artistry and skill. Their sweet masterpieces, created live before a cheering audience, will be judged on taste, presentation and technique.

At the conclusion of the two day competition, the world’s best pastry chefs - the winners of the 11th Coupe du Monde - will be revealed!

En-Ming Hsu David Ramirez Rémy Fünfrock Roy Pell Jim Mullaney Coach Team Captain Team Member Team Member Team Alternate Award-winning Pastry Executive Pastry Chef at The Executive Restaurant Pastry Executive Pastry Chef at Executive Pastry Chef at Chef Consultant Rosen Shingle Creek Chef at The Broadmoor The Phoenician The Cloisters Hotel Las Vegas, NV Orlando, FL Colorado Springs, CO Scottsdale, AZ Sea Island, GA The members of Team USA were chosen after an extensive application process culminating in final in-depth interviews with each finalist during the selection weekend sponsored by Valrhona at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD. The team represents the most talented pastry chefs working in the US today. Each chef brings over 20 years of professional experience and all have excelled in pastry competitions encompassing desserts, chocolate, sugar work, ice-carving, pastry, and bread. Contact Information: Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in USA contact: En-Ming Hsu: 312 451 3715 - [email protected] Valrhona press contact: Deborah Kwan - DKPR: 415 586 4885 - [email protected]

Founding Official Sponsor

2005 Bronze • 2001 WORLD PASTRY CUP CHAMPIONS • 1999 Bronze • 1997 Silver • 1995 Bronze Regional Showcase French Butter Pear Tart with Chestnut Mont Blanc Serves 6 Mont Blanc 4. Remove parchment paper and 1 pound fresh chestnuts weights. Decrease heat to 350ºF and Zinfandel Poached French Butter Pears 2 cups milk bake 5-7 more minutes. 1 bottle of Zinfandel, 750 ml 1/3 cup sugar 5. Cool slightly. Spread bottom evenly 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and Pinch of salt with chestnut paste. scraped 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and 6. Arrange sliced pears over the chestnut 2-3 strips grapefruit peel, no pith scraped paste. 1/2 cup sugar 2-3 strips lemon peel 6 French Butter pears, peeled, cored, and 7. Bake for 20 minutes. cut in half 1. Soak chestnuts in lukewarm water for 8. Top with Chestnut Mont Blanc. 5 minutes to soften shells. 9. Serve with Créme Anglaise and/or 1. In large saucepot, combine wine with 2. Make an X on flat side of each nut reduction of poaching liquid to syrup all ingredients except pears. with a small sharp knife. stage. 2. Bring to a simmer, and when sugar has 3. Drop in boiling water. Cook about 10 dissolved, lower heat. minutes. Drain; remove shell and 3. Add pears, (cored side up) and gently brown inner skin. Your Notes poach about 30 minutes or until tender. Time needed to finish poaching 4. Combine milk, sugar, salt, vanilla will depend on ripeness of pears. bean, and lemon peel in saucepot and heat to dissolve sugar. 4. Remove pears from liquid. Reduce poaching liquid by one-half. Cool. 5. Add peeled chestnuts and bring to simmer. Cook for 45 minutes or until 5. Pour cooled poaching liquid over pears and refrigerate overnight for chestnuts are soft and tender. maximum color and flavor. 6. Remove vanilla bean pod and lemon 6. Before baking, cut pears into thin slices. strips. Cool slightly. Reserve. 7. Pass half amount through potato ricer and chill ìvermicelli” chestnut puree. Chestnut Crust Reserve remaining half for chestnut 1/4 cup almonds, toasted, finely ground paste. 4 oz butter, unsalted and room temperature Chestnut Paste 1/2 cup sugar Reserved remaining half of chestnut 1 egg puree 3/4 cup flour 2 oz mascarpone 1/2 cup chestnut flour 1 tsp lemon zest 1/2 tsp salt Place in food processor, all of the above 1. Toast almonds in a 300ºF oven until and process until just incorporated. You lightly brown. Cool, process until finely can allow small pieces of chestnut to ground. remain in the paste for crunch. 2. In mixer fitted with paddle, cream Refrigerate if making ahead. butter with the confectionery sugar. 3. Add nuts, then egg. Assembly 4. Combine both flours with salt and add 1. Preheat oven to 400ºF. to above. Do not overmix. 2. Place tart molds on a baking sheet. 5. Chill at least one hour. Prick dough with a fork. 6. Roll and fit into six 43/4” x 3/4” fluted 3. Line with parchment paper and weight tart molds with removable bottom. with rice or beans. Bake for 10 Chill. minutes.

Judy Mattera Chef/Owner

Sweet Solutions 16 Fuller Ave. Swampscott, MA www.mysweetsolutions.net Massachusetts

16 Pastry & Baking North America French Butter Pear Tart with Chestnut Mont Blanc

17 Regional Showcase Mango Textures Mango Olive Oil Sponge 8g bloomed gelatin 3. Pour boiled liquid slowly onto eggs & stir. 225g almond paste 80g Italian meringue 4. Place bake on low heat and cook to 81ºC. 250g eggs 5. Be sure to constantly stir to avoid burning. 75g mango puree (imported) 1. Warm puree, yoghurt, and curry powder. 6. Strain immediately in bowl over ice bath. 3g baking powder 2. Add bloomed gelatin. 7. Stir with spatula and cool to 38ºC. 40g cake flour 3. Gently fold in meringue. 8. Add soft butter & emulsify mix with hand blender. 3g vanilla essence 4. Pipe half into ring mold. 9. Fill into small flexi domes and freeze. 95g olive oil 5. Insert frozen gelled mango disk. 10. Unmold and spray with yellow chocolate 6. Fill the rest of mold with the filling. spray. 1. Whip almond paste, sugar, & eggs till pale. 7. Place another silpat on top to keep flat. 11. Place back in freezer until ready to use. 2. Add puree. Sift dry ingredients and fold 8. Store in freezer until ready to use. in. Mango Ice Cream 3. Add olive oil slowly. Italian Meringue 1000g milk 4. Scale onto silpat and bake at 190°C for 10- 50g egg white 600g cream 12 minutes. 20g sugar 300g skim milk powder 5. Cool down and store in freezer until ready 40g water 300g sugar to use. 95g sugar 16g stabilizer 120g powdered glucose Mango Papaya Pulp 1. Whip egg white & 20g sugar softly. 700g mango puree (imported) 150g fresh mango pieces 2. At same time, cook other sugar/water to 65g lime juice 500g fresh papaya pieces 121°C. 2 no fresh lime zest 3. Pour slowly on side of meringue on low Method 2 no lime juice speed. 1. Bring milk and cream to a boil. 40g grenadine syrup 4. Whip until cool. 2. Mix stabilizer, sugars and milk powder 5. Use immediately. together. 1. Blend all of the ingredients in a robot 3. Gently whisk in and boil again. coupe. Mango Glaze 4. Cool over ice bath for 3 hours. 2. Add some mango juice to adjust 300g mango puree 5. Add mango and lime and let rest over consistency. 100g mango juice night. 3. Lastly, fold in lime zest. 10g pectin 6. Freeze next day. 4. Make this item fresh everyday when 150g sugar needed. 15g bloomed gelatin Assembly Mango Geleé 1. Unmold mango yoghurt cream. 275g mango puree 1. Slowly boil purees. 2. Sprinkle desiccated coconut on 1 side of 2. Mix together sugar and pectin, & whisk mango cream. 275g sugar in. (this prevents sticking to the tray). 100g pectin 3. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning. 3. Warm mango glaze to 50°C. 50g glucose 4. Boil for 2 minutes, strain glaze, & add 4. Glaze frozen mango cream disk 1 hour 300g sugar gelatin. before service. 15g tartaric acid solution 5. Swirl a small ladle of mango papaya pulp Massion Curd Recipe onto plate. 1. Slowly boil purees. 125g passion fruit puree 6. Cut olive oil sponge with round cutter. 2. Gently whisk in sugar and pectin. 250g mango puree 7. Place glazed disk onto sponge. 3. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning. 80g sugar 8. Place velvet sprayed massion curd disk 4. Cook to 108°C. 155g eggs on top. 5. Fill into flexi disk mold & freeze. 125g egg Yolks 9. Make a quenelle of mango ice cream. 105g soft unsalted butter 10. Put a small piece of chocolate tuile under Mango Curry Yoghurt Meringue 1/2 no lemon zest ice cream. 220g mango puree 11. Raspberry with bamboo skewer for 120g unsweetened yoghurt 1. Bring puree’s to a boil. garnish. 1.5g curry powder 2. Gently whisk eggs, yolks, & sugar together. 12. Final touch of gold.

Kevin M. Curry Pastry Chef/Consultant The Curry Touch Philadelphia/ Shanghai www.currytouch.com Tel: +86 138 1105 5381 Email: [email protected] Shanghai

18 Pastry & Baking North America Mango Textures

19 Regional Showcase Almond Joy Brownie Fudge Brownie Base Bring water to a boil. Pour the boiling 1 cup sugar water over the chocolate, butter and corn 4 1/2 oz butter syrup, and then whisk to combine. Strain. 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/4 cup water Assembly 3/4 cup all purpose flour When chilled and firm, cut the macaroon 1/4 tsp salt brownie into 2-inch squares. Line them 14 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped on a screen over a sheet pan. Top each 2 eggs square with a candied almond and pour 1 tbsp vanilla extract chocolate glaze over the brownie until it completely covers the sides and top in a Bring sugar, water and corn syrup to a smooth sheet. Allow glaze to set before boil. Pour over chopped chocolate and removing the squares from the screen. whisk to combine and fully melt the The bottom edges can be decorated with chocolate. Whisk the flour and salt into toasted coconut or chopped candied the chocolate mixture. Finally, whisk in almond. the eggs and vanilla. Pour into a greased *This dessert is great served with salted sheet pan, spread evenly and bake at 350ºF caramel sauce or créme anglaise. for 10 minutes or until nearly set and crackly skin has formed. Chill to room Your Notes temperature, then put into the freezer while making the macaroon filling.

Macaroon Filling 1 cup egg whites 1 1/3 cup sugar 1 lbs unsweetened, finely shredded coconut I vanilla bean, scrapped or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 tbsp, orange zest 2 oz sour cream

Whisk together the whites and sugar. Heat over a bain marie until hot to the touch (approximately 120ºF.) Whip with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form and the meringue has cooled down. Fold in the rest of the ingredients. Spread the mixture over the top of the frozen brownie and bake at 350ºF until golden and set, around 20 minutes. Chill to room temperature and then refrigerate to firm it up.

Chocolate Glaze 1 cup boiling water 8 oz chopped dark chocolate 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp corn syrup

Cheryl Burr Pastry Chef

Bacar Restaurant 448 Brannan Street www.bacarsf.com San Francisco

20 Pastry & Baking North America Almond Joy Brownie

21 Regional Showcase Pandan St. Honore with Star Anise Choux and Longan

Puff Pastry 3. Add the flour mixture, remove from 1. Cook sugar, water and glucose to 230g cold butter, cut into small cubes the heat and stir until the mixture 320ºF. 280g bread flour forms a smooth paste. Allow to cool 2. Remove from the heat and shock in 6g salt for 5 minutes. an ice-bath for 30 seconds to halt the 135g ice water 4. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, beat until cooking process, then remove. smooth. 3. Dip the filled choux buns in the 1. Combine flour and salt together in a caramel. Place on a baking sheet to food processor. 5. Use a pastry bag and plain tip #6 to pipe a broad spiral onto the puff harden. 2. Add 60g butter, pulse briefly until the pastry base, brush with egg wash and 4. Gripping two forks back-to-back in mixture forms large crumbs. bake at 400ºF for 25-30 minutes. one hand, dip into the remaining 3. Add ice water, pulse until the dough 6. Pipe small choux buns on a separate caramel and flick back and forth over forms into a ball. baking sheet and bake at 425ºF for 10 the rolling pin. 4. Transfer to a lightly floured surface, minutes, then at 350ºF for 5-10 5. Gently gather up the strands and fold knead into a smooth ball. minutes. them into a “spun sugar” ball. 5. Cover and rest for 30 minutes. 6. Flatten the remaining butter into a Créme Chibouste Assembly square of 3/4” thick. 270g milk 1. Dip the base of each choux bun into 7. Roll out the dough in a cross shape 4 egg yolks the caramel and place on the pastry that’s large enough for the butter. 250g sugar border. 8. Place the butter in the center, fold 30g cornstarch 2. Top the créme chibouste with longan. over the sections of dough and flatten 3 sheets gelatin 3. Decorate your Saint Honore with the with a rolling pin. 5g pandan extract spun sugar and star anise. 4 egg whites 9. Roll, fold and turn the dough six times, chill for 30 minutes between 90g water each rolling, a total of 3 hours. Your Notes 1. Make a pastry cream with milk, egg 10. Roll out an 8” circle and place on a yolks, 50g sugar and cornstarch. baking sheet, prick all over and chill for 30 minutes. 2. Bloom the gelatin, then whisk into the pastry cream. Add the extract and Choux Paste let it cool. 95g bread flour 3. Use the remaining sugar, water and 3g salt egg whites to make an Italian 6g sugar meringue. 55g unsalted butter 4. Fold the meringue into the pastry 60g water cream. Let it set for 10 minutes. 60g milk 2 eggs 5. Use 1/4 of the cream in a pastry bag 2 star anise and plain tip #3 to fill each choux bun. 1 egg, for egg wash 6. With the remaining cream, use a 5g milk, for egg wash pastry bag and Saint Honore tip to pipe over a puff pastry base. 1. Sift the flour, salt and sugar together. 2. Heat the butter, water, milk and star Caramel & Spun Sugar anise over low heat until the butter 400g sugar melts, increase the heat and bring to 120g water a full boil. Discard star anise. 14g glucose

Namthip Paine Assistant Pastry Chef

Cortez 550 Geary St San Francisco

22 Pastry & Baking North America Pandan St. Honore with Star Anise Choux and Longan

23 Regional Showcase Spicy Triple Serves 4

2 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 tsp cinnamon 3/4 tsp cloves 1/2 tsp fresh nutmeg 1/2 tsp ground allspice 1/2 tsp cardamom 1/2 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/4 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 8 oz unsalted butter, room temperature 1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed 1/2 cup sugar 2 extra large eggs, room temperature 1 cup molasses 3 tbsp peeled, fresh grated ginger 2 tbsp minced, crystallized ginger 1/2 cup whole milk, room temperature

1. Sift all dry ingredients except salt. 2. Cream butter alone for one minute until light colored. Add sugar, dark brown sugar and salt. Cream until light and fluffy. 3. Add eggs, one at a time and beat for 20 seconds after each egg. Scrape the bowl while beating the mixture. 4. Mix in molasses, continue to scrape the bowl. Do not be concerned if the mixture looks curdled, it will smooth out when the flour is added. 5. Add sifted dry ingredients, crystallized ginger and fresh ginger; mix until combined. Add milk. When the milk is almost combined, switch to a hand spatula. Mix well, making sure no streaks are present. 6. Pour into a well greased baking pan. Bake in a 350ºF oven until the center springs back when press with the back of a fork or a toothpick comes out clean. Your Notes

Patti Dellamanico-Bauler Pastry Chef

One Market Restaurant 1 Market Street San Francisco, CA

www.onemarket.com San Francisco

24 Pastry & Baking North America Spicy Triple Gingerbread

25 Regional Showcase Gateaux Exotique Yield: 27 cakes 2. Add mascarpone cheese and orange puree. Joconde 3. Pipe the cream on the plastic sheet as 250g almond flour the shape of 9 x 6cm ovale with 18mm 250g icing sugar 300g egg diametre piping tip. Freeze. 215g egg white 50g sugar Exotique Jelly 50g butter 1320g Delice Exotique puree 70g flour 35g silver gelatine sheet 35g sugar 1. Whip the almond flour, icing sugar and egg. 1. Heat the puree with sugar. 2. Whip the egg white with the sugar. 2. Add the bloomed gelatine. 3. Mix 1 and 2. 4. Add the melted butter and the shifted Nappage Exotique flour. 350g Absolu Cristal glaze 5. Pour onto the baking paper. Bake at 50g syrup (water 25g : sugar 25g) 280°C for 4-5 minutes. 25g passion fruits puree 25g Delice Exotique puree 6. After cooling down, cut into 9 x 6cm 65g glucose oval shape.

Tea Sutroizel 1. Mix all the ingredients. 150g butter 2. Heat until 50ºC. 140g sugar 3. Mix with the burmix. 2g vanilla sugar 3g salt Assembly 150g almond flour 1. Pour the Extoique Jelly into the Egg 150g flour shape Flexipan mold (10 x 7.5cm). 5g Earl Grey tea powder 2. Add the frozen mascarpone cream 1. Mix the softened butter, sugar, vanilla and biscuit joconde. Freeze. sugar and salt. 3. Glaze the nappage exotique. 2. Add the shifted almond flour, flour 4. Put on the sutroizel and finish with and tea powder. lemongrass, passion fruits seeds, 3. Keep in the refregerator. orange etc. 4. Roll out at 2-3mm. Cut into 9 x 6 oval shape. Your Notes 5. Bake at 170°C for about 10 minutes.

Mascarpone Cream 20g sugar 180g cream 40% 500g mascarpone cheese 300g orange puree

1. Whip the cream with the sugar.

Hiroshi Fujikawa Owner/Chef

Patisserie La Splendeur 2-1-20 Minamikugahara Ohtaku Japan Tokyo Tel : +81 3-3752-5119 Courtesy All Japan Confectionery Association From PCG Magazine

26 Pastry & Baking North America Gateaux Exotique

27 Competition Champions Once Again

Team Singapore wins 2008 Asian Pastry Cup represented by Chef Hoi Kuok I, Chef Ng Chee Leong and Jury Member Chef Pang Kok Keong.

28 Pastry & Baking North America resident-Founder of the World Pastry Cup, Mr Gabriel Paillasson, crowned the Team Singapore the winner of the Asian Pastry Cup 2008 on 24 April at the end of an exciting, tense and emotional two-day competition. The teams from Taiwan and China were awarded the second and third prizes respectively as hundreds of supporters cheered them on. “Due to the fantastic work by the participants, I will be selecting four top teams instead of three,” Mr Paillasson announced unexpectedly at the awards ceremony as the audience in the crowded arena clapped enthusiastically. The initial intention was to give only the top three teams the chance to compete at the World Pastry Cup in Lyon, France next year. The talented team from was awarded the specially added fourth prize. A warm sense of camaraderie and pride swept across the arena as the audience, filled with ardent supporters of the pastry industry, whooped for joy in response to Mr Paillason’s decision. The Singapore team, represented by Chef Hoi Kuok I and Chef Ng Chee Leong, captivated the 10-member professional jury with their plated dessert, an exquisite milk chocolate sphere filled with homemade hazelnut praline and raspberry granita, their “Bliss Chocolate Entremet” chocolate cake, which also won the “Best Chocolate Cake” special prize, and their “Encounter” – themed sugar and chocolate showpieces. All four creations earned extensive praises and high scores for their taste, texture, presentation and originality. It is the second time Singapore has won top honors at the Asian Pastry Cup. “It is a triumph for Singapore to come in first amidst such strong competitors. The team did very well,” said jury member Chef Pang Kok Keong.

Team Taiwan Results Prize Country

Gold APC Trophy Singapore

Silver APC Trophy Taiwan

Bronze APC Trophy China Special Prize Country Best Chocolate Showpiece Taiwan

Team China Best Chocolate Showpiece Taiwan

Best Chocolate Cake Singapore

Best Plated Dessert Malaysia

Best Team Spirits Mauritius

Media Prize Singapore

Singapore Pastry Sri Lanka Alliance Prize

29 Competition

“I am very happy and honored that we have won. It was a truly Malaysian Showpieces exciting competition, every team was excellent,” said Chef Hoi, team captain of the Singapore team. “I have only three years of experience in pastry. To many experienced pastry chefs, I am only a beginner. So I am proud to have the golden opportunity to represent Singapore in World Pastry Cup 2009!” This second edition of the biennial competition, held in conjunction with the biennial Food&Hotel Asia 2008, attracted the participation of 10 Asian teams (up from seven at the inaugural Asian Pastry Cup 2006). This year, teams from China, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Mauritius, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Vietnam competed for the top spots. “This year at the second Asian Pastry Cup, we have the participation of 10 Asian nations and saw so many talented pastry chefs in action. I am heartened that the event is growing in importance. I would like to thank the organizers and generous sponsors who have made the APC a success,” said Mr Paillasson. A new visual identity for the APC was launched this year. The egg marks the birth of the new and also represents the one ingredient that remains a common theme across many pastry cultures. The gold swirls are an Asian design element that alludes to the exchange and blending of new ideas. The top four Asian teams will now prepare to compete with teams from all over the world at the prestigious World Pastry Cup 2009 in Lyon, France on 25 and 26 January 2009 where they will meet and vie against teams from France, Japan, Korea, Spain, Italy, and Belgium for the coveted award. Former Pastry World Champions include three Michelin star pastry chef, Christophe Michalak (2005); Pascal Molines (1999); and acclaimed Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini (1995).

30 Pastry & Baking North America Mr Philippe Rigollot, the pastry chef at Anne-Sophie Pic’s three Michelin-starred Maison Pic and part of the Pastry World Champion team in 2005, made a distinguished appearance as a special guest at APC 2008 courtesy of the World Gourmet Summit 2008. “I am delighted to be here, it reminds me of my wonderful experience at WPC a few years back. I wish for the selected countries an unforgettable experience in Lyon,” he said. Founded by Valrhona and Ravifruit in collaboration with Singapore Exhibition Services and the Singapore Pastry Alliance, the Asian Pastry Cup was conceptualised with the aim to promote fine pastry art in Asia through a competitive platform. An Asian partner to the World Pastry Cup held in Lyon, France biennially, it is the official competition at which three Asian countries are pre-selected to compete at the international event. The APC, first held in 2006, is now in its second year running. The participating teams prepared and presented their best pastry creations live in front of an audience and the esteemed judging panel, helmed by Mr Gabriel Paillasson, President-Founder of World Pastry Cup.

Indonesian Sugar Piece

31 Competition

China India Indonesia

Malaysia Mauritius Philippines

Sri Lanka Taiwan Vietnam

32 Pastry & Baking North America Team Singapore’s “Bliss Chocolate”

33 Competition

China India Mauritius

Indonesia Philippines Singapore

Sri Lanka Taiwan Vietnam

34 Pastry & Baking North America Team Malaysia’s Winning Plated Dessert

35 Sugar Arts Trigger Fish

Sugar Recipe Equipment 1000g Sugar Bulb Pump 400g Water (wood or metal tube) 200g Glucose Mat 10 drops of tartaric acid Gloves (boil to 160ºC) Hair Dryer Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert in Heat Source modern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitor Pot and instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of Pastry Spatula Arts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com) Marble

1.

2.

1. Using your hands, form the pliable sugar into a sphere by folding it several times in order to get an even temperature throughout. If you blow sugar with an uneven temperature, the sugar will always extract more on the warmer side. The only way to correct this is by using your hand to cool down the warmer parts. 2. Carefully push a short hole into the sphere. Try not to cool down the sphere by handling it too much. Cut off any excess sugar toward the base.

36 Pastry & Baking North America 3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8.

9. 10.

3. Slide the tubing attachment a short distance into the ball of sugar. Press 7. Once the body of the fish holds its shape, warm the end piece, the sugar onto the tube securely, so the air does not escape from the sides. the tail, with a burner or blow torch very carefully. 4. Pump air into the sphere and expand the sugar evenly. Elongate the sphere 8. With some caution, peel the end piece of the sugar from the as you blow air into the sugar. (If the sugar is very warm you should not blowing tube. Release the sugar from the blowing tube using blow too much air in at one time. The sugar will collapse from not being a pair of scissors. This end piece will be used to form the tail able to hold its shape). Carefully form the sugar into a “drop shape”. Form of the fish. If there are any discolorations left behind in the the front of the fish’s nose as you elongate the body of the fish. sugar from the blowing tube, remove them using the scissors. 5. Flatten the piece of blown sugar on your leg so the bottom side does not 9. If you don’t have enough sugar to form the tail add an additional get too cold. This will allow for a longer working time before the sugar piece of sugar. Build the fish tail by kneading a piece of sugar get cold and brittle. back into the existing tail. 6. Once you achieve the desired shape, cool the sugar in front of a hair dryer 10. Re-warm and flatten the tail piece with your hands. Cut off to hold it’s shape. the end piece with a pair of scissors to get a clean finish.

37 5133 - www.fbd.be dobla.com www.dobla.com Please checkoursitetofindyourlocaldistributor: DOBLA BV, TheNetherlands

CHOCOLATE INNOVATION IN

WORLD PASTRY TEAM TEAM PASTRY WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP Ramon usedtheDoblaDiablosquare todecorate. Kenny Kong,

‘The Stamford andRaffles’, Singapore.

Nashville, USA Nashville,

31 August - 1 September 2008, 2008, September 1 - August 31

Championship 2008. Championship

of the World Pastry Team Team Pastry World the of Dobla is official sponsor sponsor official is Dobla Associate memberof: Pastry ChefofSwissôtel Recipe madeby Sugar Arts

11. 12. 13.

14. 15. 16.

11. Score the fish tail with a pair of scissors to get the fin-like appearance of a real fin. 12. The eyes of the fish can be painted or molded. To mold the eyes, use a round piece of red sugar and flatten it out on a table. Take a small rounded piece of black sugar and press it into the center of the red piece of sugar. This technique will create depth and give a life-like hue to the fish’s face. To attach the eye, warm the back side of the sugar and firmly fasten the eye to the fish. 13. Use air brush quality food dye to color the fish’s body. Dip the brush end into the food color and paint the gills on the side of the fish. 14. Carefully re-warm the casted support with a blow torch. Slightly melt the support to attach the fish securely. If the support is very cold use a hair dryer to re-warm it carefully. Strong temperature differences may cause the support to crack and break. 15. Pull the fins like a small piece of ribbon and cut it into the desired shape while the sugar is still warm and pliable. You will need six fins in various sizes, two for the side of the fish, three for the top fins and one for the base fin. 16. It is best if you attach the fins to the fish’s body while the fins are slightly warm. This way you may change or correct the shape of the fins. 17. Once the fish is complete, color the fish body using an air brush with yellow, red and blue colors. Start off by spraying the body of the fish with yellow. Follow with the red air brush color and finish with blue on the tops of the fins. Feel free to spray the fish with any color you desire. Be careful not to spray too much color because the liquid food color will bead on the surface 17. and bleed into the other colors.

39 Artisan Baker

Whole Wheat Bread

hole grains: Surely by now you know that experts say we should eat more of them. It W Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair for seems that everywhere you look these days, the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson & from television to the printed page to the all-encompassing Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has been recognized both nationally and internationally with numerous Internet, our brains are becoming ingrained (pardon the pun) awards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published two DVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book, with whole grains... and rightfully so! The facts are clear and Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008. More information on Ciril and his work can be found on his indisputable: they contain more fiber, vitamins, and minerals web site: www.breadhitz.com. than their refined counterparts. They are simply better for your body, period. There are simple changes you can make to increase the amount of whole grains in your diet, one of the easiest being to use more whole wheat flour when baking. That being said, I am amazed that the mention of whole wheat bread still conjures up in the minds of many an image of a dense, heavy, bitter loaf of bread. With the following formula, I hope to change the mind of anyone that still holds such a perception. Part of my personal baking philosophy includes that every formula should serve more than one purpose or product. In fact, I always challenge my students at Johnson & Wales University to use half dough in the formula to make the required product, and then use simple changes to transform the remaining half into something completely new and different. It is amazing to see what they come up with! So, in keeping with this approach, I am including some alternate variations above and beyond a wholesome and tasty loaf of bread. Give it a try and see if I can make you a believer in this very tasty and easy-to-make Whole Wheat Bread.

40 Pastry & Baking North America Serve perfection. Artisan pastries deserve artisan coffee.

Named 2008 Macro Roaster of the Year by Roast Magazine Home of Barista Champions

Trust your coffee program to the proven experts: 1220 West Nickerson Street, Seattle, WA 98119 866-ZOKA-NOW (866-965-2669) I Artisan Baker

Biga 7. Place in a protected environment (like a proof box) and allow Ingredients Metric Pounds % dough to proof an additional 90 minutes. Bread flour 750g 1# 10.4 oz 100 8. Bake at 420ºF in a convection oven for 20 minutes with 15 Water (70ºC recommended) 450g 15.8 oz 60 seconds of steam. Instant yeast 6g .21 oz .8 9. Drop oven temp to 380ºF and bake an additional 20-30 minutes.

1. Mix all ingredients on 1st speed for 3 minutes until a smooth 10. Remove from pan and cool completely on cooling rack. consistency.

2. Place the biga in an oiled container large enough for it to triple Variation: Whole Wheat Rolls its size. • Divide dough into 90 gram units. Note: After mixing, the biga will seem dry and feel tight and somewhat rubbery. This is normal; DO NOT add any additional • Work round and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover, water. Allow the biga to stay out at room temperature for 2 hours and let proof for 45-60 minutes. before using. (If you wish to hold the biga to use for the next day, • Bake at 450-480ºF in a deck oven for 12-15 minutes until a nice degass the biga with your hands and refrigerate overnight.) golden brown crust develops.

Final Weight 6700g 14# 12.3 oz Variation: Whole Wheat Pizzas

Ingredients Metric Pounds % • When making pizzas, it is best not to use seeds in the dough.

Whole wheat flour 2750g 6# 100 • Divide the dough into pieces between 220-350 grams, depending Water (80ºC recommended) 1935g 4# 4.2 oz 70 on the size of the pizza desired.

Honey 260g 9.1oz 9.4 • Shape them round and place on an oiled sheet pan. Cover with Instant yeast 8g .28 oz .29 plastic and chill (dough can be kept up to 24 hours in refrigerator.) Salt 69g 2.4 oz 2.5 • Roll out with a rolling pin and top with desired toppings. Bake Biga 1206g 2#10.5 oz 43 pizzas at 450-480ºF for about 7-10 minutes each. Sunflower seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2 Pumpkin Seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2 Variation: Savory Filled Rounds Sesame seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2

* Optional ingredients • When making savory filled rounds, it is best not to use seeds in the dough. 1. In a 20 quart mixer, mix all ingredients except seeds on 1st speed • Divide the dough into 90g units, work round, place on a for 4 minutes. parchment-lined sheet pan. 2. Increase speed to 2nd speed and mix an additional 1 to 2 minutes. • Cover and allow to proof until the dough doubles in size (around 3. Add seeds (optional) on 1st speed until completely incorporated 60 minutes). into the dough. • Brush the round with a savory blend of herbed olive oil (your 4. Place dough into an oiled proofing container, cover with lid and choice of salt, pepper, herbs, and spices) and press an opening let rest for 45 minutes. into the center with your fingers.

5. Give the dough one stretch and fold, cover, and let rest an • Fill with the desired filling, such as soft herb cheese and roasted additional 45 minutes. vegetables or pesto sauce and sautéed chicken bits.

6. Scale dough into 850g increments, shape into loaves, and place • Bake for 15-20 minutes at 450-480ºF in a deck oven until desired immediately into oiled loaf pans or Panibois® baking forms. color is achieved.

42 Pastry & Baking North America 1. 2. 3.

6.

1. Stretch and fold adds strength and balances out the dough temperature during the fermentation process. 4. 5. 2. Shape the dough immediately after dividing. For a decorative effect, roll the top surface on a damp cloth, then roll the wet surface into whole rolled oats. 3. Place the shaped dough into the desired container. Shown is a Panibois® mold (size #6). 4. Place the shaped loafs in a warm and protected humid environment. Check the loaf’s readiness by pressing your fingers on the surface; the dough should feel relaxed. 5. Allow the whole wheat bread to cool completely before cutting. 6. To make rolls (also first step in making savory filled rounds): divide the dough and immediately shape into final form, place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and proof until they have doubled in size. 7. Brush the rounds with a savory oil, open the center cavity with your fingers, and fill with desired toppings. 8. Tasty and savory filled rounds are baked in a hot deck oven (480ºF) until the desired 7. 8. color is achieved (about 15 minutes).

43 Artisan Baker

44 Pastry & Baking North America 45 Chef in Focus

Leslie Mackie is a busy lady. As chef/owner of Macrina Bakery, the place where Seattlites congregate for fresh baked goodness, Leslie is tasked daily with living up to her James Beard nominations, widely acclaimed cookbooks and her global reputation as a true artisan.

By Campbell Ross Walker Photography by S I G

46 Pastry & Baking North America 47 Chef in Focus

acrina Bakery is one of Seattle’s most popular P&B NA: How did you realize your culinary calling? artisan bakeries. As you approach the storefront LM: I started out at Restaurant Management School. However, situated on 1st Avenue in the hip, upscale when I graduated at 20 years of age, I was too young to launch neighborhood of Belltown, you can see people bustling in and my career. In Oregon, you have to be 21 to manager a out with bulging sacks of everything from the succulently savory restaurant. With some time on my hands, I decided to travel to the sinfully sweet. to Europe for 2 months and have a look around. Soon, I With a broad spectrum of bakery fare, Macrina offers its patrons realized the necessity to round out my education. At that a full lunch menu with savory breads, sandwiches and soup, tasty point, I didn’t know much about cooking, so I started tasting bakery goodies such as cookies, slices of cakes and mini tarts. Add lots of varied cuisine. After awhile, I could distinguish a some eye opening, freshly ground espresso and a dedicated, delicious Hollandaise but I was frustrated in not knowing passionate staff and you soon realize all the accolades are rightly how these sauces and associated dishes were created. That is deserved. when I decided to go to culinary school. Inside the bakery, you find a quaint space; music lightly plays over the din of customer chit chat and the bustle of a bakery in action. Customers line up and begin slinging out their orders while Macrina’s friendly staff attends to them with a smile. The woman behind Macrina’s success is owner/baker/pastry chef Leslie Mackie. Originally from Rose City, Oregon, Leslie has worked on both coasts in a variety of roles and outlets but decided to call Seattle home in early 90’s and took the plunge into entrepreneurship with the launch of Macrina in 1993. Leslie has received several nominations for the “Outstanding Pastry Chef Award” from the James Beard Foundation, which honors food and beverage industry professionals in America for their achievements. One of the highlights of Leslie’s career was her appearance on Julia Child’s “Baking with Julia” television series and her inclusion in the companion cookbook. Featured in numerous magazines and an active member in the Bread Bakers Guild of America and Les Dames d’Escoffier, Leslie got here start at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. The day we visited with Leslie, she balanced putting the finishing touches on a chocolate cake, ordering ingredients from her suppliers, managing the staff and time sheets while answering our questions and providing insight into Marcina. Quite the multi-tasker!

48 Pastry & Baking North America Even after starting my classes, I didn’t foresee a life as a chef. What I really aspired to be was a catering coordinator. I loved event planning, parties and that sort of stuff and thought a deeper understanding of the creative processes would be a huge benefit. However, after graduation, my Dad thought it important that I get practical, real world experience. He was right so I applied and was very fortunate to land a job at Ernie’s Restaurant in San Francisco. The position was like an apprenticeship which was great because I got to work all of the stations and really get a taste for the back of the house. I stayed there 1 year (1982) and have been in the kitchen ever since. I love it!

How did you migrate over to the sweet side of the menu? To make a long story short, after Ernie’s, I worked at the Westin San Francisco. From there, I moved to Boston and my previous chef at Ernie’s suggested I look up his former sous chef, Lydia Shire, who happened to be in town and was the chef at the Bostonian Hotel. I did just that and went by for lunch and was blown away by the food. I introduced myself to Lydia and soon thereafter I started working for her at the Bostonian. One day, they needed help in the pastry kitchen and I got a chance to work with their chef and that was it. Hooked!. The pastry chef’s name was Killian and he is extremely serious about what he does. His technique, style and combinations are beyond words. He has an excellent palette and has amazing integrity for his work. I couldn’t have started and learned from a better person. He showed me that something simple, if done perfectly, can make a powerful impact on your guests. Chef in Focus

50 Pastry & Baking North America Touching on palette, what would you say is your approach to flavor? I think balance is really important and learning this at a young age was a blessing. I say this now and look back on my early days in hot cooking and see how important it was to learn how to develop flavors; which is exactly what you do with bread. If you launch right into being a pastry chef you kind of miss out on the opportunity to do that. In the savory world, you are always developing flavors and learning how to layer flavors and textures. I feel having worked in savory has enhanced my approach to pastry and especially bread baking. I’d like to think my approach is simple but elegant. I work towards building and developing flavors rather than just adding multiple flavors for an immediate result. I enjoy developing flavor through starters and fermentation to get a variety of different tastes and textures.

What brought you to Seattle? I was in Boston and I then moved out to Los Angeles to help open a hotel with Lydia Shire. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have worked with Lydia. She is brilliant. Lydia is such a creative chef and such an inspiration in terms of going to the source or going to the origin of a recipe. This is very important. So, I am in Los Angeles and the opening is a success and everyone is now leaving to return to Boston and open Lydia’s restaurant, Biba. I wanted to be closer to home since all my family is out here BUT I didn’t want to move all the way back again. I just wasn’t ready to return to Portland considering I grew up there and I already worked in all these great cities. I needed something a little more metropolitan. Don’t get me wrong, Portland is wonderful, but after reading articles on Seattle I decided this was where I wanted to be. Chef in Focus

I visited Seattle, walked around Pike Place and discovered Grand Central Baking. It happened to be the first year they started doing rustic European breads. I dropped off a resume and was working there within a few weeks. It was a very exciting time to be at Grand Central Baking as the Seattle bread revolution was kicking into high gear. Back then, we had lines out the door and they were selling Como loafs that were not even made yet!

When did you decide to launch Macrina Bakery? Macrina opened in 1993 in a very small location. At the time, although very passionate about bread and the business, I was determined that operating the bakery would be a “part of my life” and not an ever present, dominate force in my life. I envisioned 1 month off per year for travel and vacation and staying small without too much hassle or headache. Those pre launch ideals lasted about 3 minutes after we opened the doors. Today, it’s a 25 hour a day passion that I would not change for the world.

52 Pastry & Baking North America

Chef in Focus

54 Pastry & Baking North America Tell us about your book: Macrina Bakery & Cafe Cookbook. Andrew Cleary, general manager at the time, partnered with me and we worked with Sasquatch Publishing. What fun! We published in 2003 with the idea that the book would tell the story of our first 10 years of business and shed light on the inner workings at Macrina. Although extremely rewarding, it was not easy writing the book. The most time consuming task was altering our recipes for the “at-home baker” but this provided an excellent opportunity to really go over the recipes and fine tune them so they were perfect. To me, publishing was like childbirth with all the associated pain but when it’s over and published, it is well worth the effort! For me the success of the cookbook is not measured in the amount of sales you get but in the people having success with your recipes and loving the recipes.

How do you feel about your 2007 nomination for the “Outstanding Pastry Chef Award” from the James Beard Foundation? Oh wow, well, I feel incredibly honored to even be nominated. There are so many talented people who are a part of James Beard. To be in their company is fantastic. We do simple and elegant things here at Macrina and I think most important is the quality of the bakery is consistent day to day. The fact that people in New York even know we exist is remarkable. Considering James Beard grew up in Portland and I am from Oregon makes my nomination ever more special. My biggest focus moving forward is to honor the nomination by maintaining our product quality and quality of service here at Macrina. Food bridges the gaps and brings us all together. Chef in Focus Fresh Fruit Combine butter, sugar and brown sugar in a bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speed for 5 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become smooth and pale Try using one variety of fruit picked at the height of its in color. Add eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is fully growing season or mix two or three varieties. Very wet fruit mixed into the butter before adding the other. After the last like strawberries are less desirable as it will cause the coffee egg is incorporated, add the vanilla and mix for 1 minute. cake to stick to the pan. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix for another 30 Makes 1 seconds to make sure all the ingredients are fully incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer. For the batter: Alternatively add small amounts of the flour mixture and the 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour buttermilk to the batter, mixing with a wooden spoon. The 11/2 teaspoon baking soda last addition of flour will be with the tossed fruit. Fold gently 3/4 teaspoon salt to incorporate all ingredients making sure to evenly distribute 2 cups ripe fresh fruit (whole berries or cut 1/2 pieces) the fruit. 12 T unsalted butter, room temperature Spoon batter into prepared bundt pan, filling 2/3 the pan. Bake 1 cup granulated sugar on the center rack of the oven for 1 hour and 30 minutes or 1/2 cup light brown sugar until the top is golden brown. Check the center of the coffee 2 eggs cake with a skewer. It will come out clean when the cake is 11/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract finished. Let cool in pan for 45 minutes. 11/2 cup buttermilk Loosen the sides of the cake with a sharp knife. Place a serving plate, upside down on the top of the cooled bundt pan and Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 12c bundt pan. invert the pan to remove the cake. Sift flour, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Toss with your This delicious coffee cake needs no additional glaze. Powdered hands. Remove 1/4 cup flour mixture and toss with the fresh sugar dusted over with a few fresh flowers will jazz up the fruit. Set aside both bowls. presentation.

56 Pastry & Baking North America 57 Chocolate Love

Three Colour Cigarettes

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.

Chocolate “Cigarettes”

Tools: Marble slab Airbrush Scotch tape Putty knives Offset spatula

Ingredients: White chocolate Colored cocoa butter

58 Pastry & Baking North America 1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

1. Lightly apply Scotch tape to marble 3. In between the lines, spray the second slab approximately one inch apart. color of cocoa butter. Then place one piece of tape diagonally 4. Remove the diagonal piece of tape to across the original lines of tape. expose the bare marble. 2. Airbrush first color of cocoa butter 5. Pour white chocolate to cover the on the marble slab on the bias crossing entire airbrushed area. the tape. Leave one inch between each line. 6. Allow the white chocolate to harden.

59 Chocolate Love

8.

7. Using a putty knife, clean the four edges to create a rectangle. Remove the excess chocolate. 8. With a putty knife at a 45-degree angle, quickly and forcefully, in one motion, push the chocolate into a 1/8-inch band to create individual three-color 7. chocolate “cigarettes.”

60 Pastry & Baking North America 1908 – 2008

100 Years – from us to you In 1908, Max Felchlin crafted his fi rst artisan product. A century later, Felchlin’s unique specialties inspire passionate chefs from around the world to push the boundaries of creativity in pursuit of gastronomic excellence. We remain humbly at your service.

For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676 Wild Sweets

FOAMING – Part 1 Essentially, foams are the result of mechanically incorporating air into egg whites, which consist almost entirely of proteins and water so that the resulting preparation gains volume and becomes as light as possible in texture. Adding air is not an issue, but past a certain point, excessive beating will break and collapse the foam. Research has shown that in order to gain more volume in a foam from the protein available, more water must be added (typically beaten in after the foam reaches maximum volume). However, the “water” need not be just water but instead can be an aromatic liquid such as fruit juice, wine, or an infusion, which results in Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the chefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a critically many different foams with unique and distinct flavors and colors. acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has Another option for ‘flavored’ foams is through the use of emerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers. The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc., albumen or egg white powder. In this form, the typically freeze a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training dried egg whites must be reconstituted with water before foaming. and consulting services to hotels and catering companies worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services Replacing the water with a non-fat aromatic liquid such as fruit juice such as product development, food styling, and photography. or cooking stock, and you have opened a new realm of possibilities. For more information,visit www.dcduby.com

RASPBERRY MERINGUE Preheat oven to 200°F. Pour the raspberry purée into a tall and 180 mL raspberry purée narrow container and add the ALBEN. Using an electric mixer, 20g albumen powder* whip until stiff peaks. Add in the sugar an continue mixing 80g granulated sugar until well combined. Using a rectangular template, evenly spread a thin layer of the meringue on a silicon mat. Fill the remaining *This recipe is tested with ALBEN Elements by DC DUBY, meringue into a piping bag fitted with a small round tube and other albumen may be substituted but results may differ. pipe straight lines on top of the rectangle. Bake for approximately 50 to 60 minutes or until dry and crisp. Remove from the tray, let cool briefly on a wire rack and immediately store in an airtight container.

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62 Pastry & Baking North America ALMOND BUTTER MOUSSE 200g almond butter 50 mL almond oil 50g invert sugar 5 mL vanilla extract 60g milk chocolate, melted 100g soft butter

Combine the almond butter, almond oil, and invert sugar in a blender and mix until well combined. Add the vanilla extract, melted milk chocolate, and mix until all combined. Transfer mixture into an electric mixer, add the butter, and whip 4. 5. until the cream is light and airy. Let set in the refrigerator.

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63 Wild Sweets

Assembly Just before service, place the cold almond mousse in a pastry bag fitted with a round tube and pipe beads or lines on top of the meringue. Arrange a few fresh raspberries on top of the cream and top with another meringue. Finish with a fresh raspberry and a piece of gold leaf. Serve immediately.

64 Pastry & Baking North America exquisite chocolate. excellent price.

ALBERT USTER IMPORTS t1.800.231.8154 t WWW.AUISWISS.COM Asian Fusion

Wallnut Red Wine Bread

*Recipe from ‘A Collection of Fine Baking’, by Young Mo Kim.

2 loaves 1 baking pan Publisher’s Note: Successful entrepreneur, award winning author, Dough: instructor, international representative and current 400g bread flour Before you begin President of the Korean Bakers Association, Chef 100g rye meal Kim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazing 1. Mix and sift bread flour and rye visionary in the pastry and baking fusion 50g sugar meal and set aside. movement, Chef Kim marries his classical European training with his appreciation for Asian 10g salt 2. Whisk the egg in a separate bowl ingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy of 15g instant dry yeast prior to adding to the mix at Dream Character, Inc. 50g egg Step 2. 270 gred wine 3. Read the steam baking technique 80g unsalted butter at Step 13, and prepare in 200g chopped walnuts advance.

66 Pastry & Baking North America 1. 2. 2a.

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3. Add unsalted butter and continue to knead 7. for another 4-6 minutes. The color of the dough may vary due to the color of the wine. 4. Using your palm, press down the dough to flatten it. Add chopped walnuts and fold in the dough. 5. First Rise. Make a round ball and place it in 1. a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, putting Steps a few holes in the wrap for the dough to breathe, and leave at room temperature for 1. Put sifted bread flour and rye flour on a work surface. Add sugar one hour. and salt and mix together. Add instant dry yeast and lightly mix in with your fingers. 6. Bench. Divide the dough in half. Make a round ball and cover with plastic wrap. Leave at 2. Make a well and add whisked egg and red wine. Knead for about room temperature for about 20 minutes. 5 minutes or until the dough doesn’t cling to your hands. *Use cold wine during the summer, and room-temperature wine 7. Shape. Lightly roll the dough with a rolling for the winter. pin to make an oval shape.

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8. Starting from the long end, roll the dough. Seal the end by squeezing the dough together with your fingers. 9. Turn the dough over so the seam faces down. 10. Spray water evenly over the dough. 11. Second Rise. Dip the wet side in extra bread flour. Place the dough on a pan. Cover with plastic wrap (see page 35 for further explanation) and leave at room temperature for 40-50 minutes. 12. Use a knife to make a 1/4 ” (7mm) deep diagonal slash (or be creative!). 13. Bake. Preheat the oven to 430ºF/220ºC for about 30 minutes prior to baking. When you turn on the oven, place clean rocks in a separate pan and place it in the bottom rack (these rocks will be very hot by the time you put the bread dough in the oven). Place the dough in the oven (picture 13a). Have a cup of water ready and pour it over the heated rocks (picture 13b). As soon as you pour the water, close the oven door quickly to keep the steam inside. Turn down the temperature to 355ºF/180ºC and bake for 28-30 minutes.

68 Pastry & Baking North America THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION

Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman Love Confections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolate and ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We are pleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, to restaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For information please call, visit our Web site or e-mail [email protected].

11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33913 239.561.7215 • www.NormanLoveConfections.com Plated Desserts

Caramel Crémeux with Hazelnut Logs Photography by Dragon Filipovic

Caramel Cremeux 1. Caramelize the sugar and add the butter. 100g sugar 2. Incorporate the egg yolks and temper 25g butter the caramel vanilla cream and cook at 500g cream 35% 85ºC. Add the softened gelatin. 120g egg yolks 3. Strain the anglaise. 6g gelatin leaves 4. Pour in flexipan mold and freeze.

Publisher’s Note: As the former Executive Pastry Chef at the French Embassy, Washington, D.C. and a 10 year Ritz Carlton Group veteran, Eric is the driving force (chef/owner) behind Visage Pâtisserie and the recently launched Pastry Training Centre in Bangkok 1. 2. (www.macaronbkk.com).

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Financier 1. Sift the cake flour, almond flour 2. Add the semi confit. 170g almond flour and sugar. 3. Cover with silpat and bake 100g cake flour Add the egg whites and melt at 200ºC. 335g sugar the butter (noisette). 225g egg whites 4. Place the on the 285g melted butter (noisette) Pipe the financier mix into top of the caramel cremeux 100g lemon semi confit flexipan. (just set)

Hazelnut Cream 300g pastry cream 50g praline paste 50g pate de noisette 4g gelatin 250g whipped cream

1. Make a pastry cream and set aside. Soften the gelatin in cold water. Smooth the pastry cream. Add the praline paste and hazelnut paste. Melt and warm up the gelatin and add to the praline cream. Fold in gently the whipped cream. Pipe onto silpat and freeze. 1. 2. 2. Cut into small logs.

71 Plated Desserts

Chocolate Garnish Milk chocolate 1. Pour tempered chocolate onto plastic sheet. 2. Spread the milk chocolate evenly over the sheet. 3. Cut into small strips 4. While still not set yet, fit the plastic sheet into a small mold and allow to set. Once ready, remove from the mold and take out rolled chocolate.

Assemble the dessert and serve with vanilla 1. 2. bean ice cream and dot with small amounts of chocolate sauce.

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