THE MUSIC BLARES AND DISCO-WORTHY found in New York studio apartments. The chefs lights flash as two men in chef’s whites hoist and their assistants, along with one culinary a massive silver tray, heavy with veal and student appointed to each team upon arrival garnishes, and prepare to carry it across the in Lyon, have five hours to prepare the two 8Zlc`eXipZifn[Z_\\ijfek_\Z_\]j% convention center hall. One of them walking main courses and six side dishes. Throughout Fggfj`k\18cc\p\jXi\fek_\m\XcZi\Xk`fej backwards, they step gingerly over TV camera the cooking, the judges wander by the kitchen XjZfdd`kk\\d\dY\ijZXi\]lccpZXiipk_\ cords as they pass in front of two long tables windows to mark the competitors on technique @kXc`Xek\XdËjjgi\X[kfal[^d\ek% of 24 judges, one from each country that sent and make sure they’re keeping everything—cut- a team to compete for the Bocuse d’Or, the ting surfaces, vegetables, rules—clean. As their world’s premier culinary award. Their tall, dishes go out, some chefs sneak a quick glance to crisp toques blanches sit at attention. Their faces see if they can gauge the judges’ reactions. It’s all give nothing away. Judging from America is the time they can afford before moving on to the Wolfgang Puck; from , the competition’s next dish. They have to maintain concentration, host country, Jean Michel Lorain, chef and even when the fans on the bleachers across the owner of La Côte Saint-Jacques. Over two days room blast air horns. in Lyon, the judges will eyeball and taste 48 Held every other year at the International different main courses made with this year’s Hotel Catering and Food Trade Exhibition in must-use ingredients: 24 with veal, 24 with Lyon, the Bocuse d’Or World Cuisine Contest monkfish. They’ll also weigh in on 144 rather and its sibling competition, the World Pastry complicated side dishes, such as the U.S. team’s Cup, are open only to food industry insiders, baked cauliflower with crème fraîche and guests of the chefs, and the press. But con- Osetra caviar. The chefs must prepare three tinuous news coverage and broadcasts of the to accompany each main course. competition in a main town square let all of Behind the row of judges, 12 chefs push Lyon get in on the action. Through nine previ- forward with their own game plans, quietly, ous Bocuse d’Or competitions and eight World intensely chopping, and constantly tasting their Pastry Cups, the home team has dominated, dishes in progress. They’ve choreographed every picking up four gold medals in each. The only second and planned every move. Though many country that has troubled France repeatedly in of them—like Eyck Zimmer of The Lowry Hotel either competition is Norway. At the last event, in Manchester, England, and Haidong Wang of Norway’s young chef, Charles Tjessem, won his Beijing’s Ruilongyuan Hotel—command large country’s third Bocuse d’Or gold. kitchens and staffs at home, the convention cen- At this event, China and Lebanon are first- ter kitchens have more in common with those time culinary teams, and Jordan and Russia =ff[=`^_k K?<NFIC;ËJDFJK:FDGK?<@I=8MFI@K<9LKK

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