PASTRY & BAKING

NORTH AMERICA NORTH AMERICA

Volume 2 Issue 5 2008 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 5 2008

Punk Pastry – Michelle Garcia Transmogrified Mangoes

The Georgian Executive Pastry Chef Artis Kalsons WWW.P ASTRY NA.COM Almonds are in .

B in  ittle runch,  ouc f novativela n  o  reativit  ver reatin. Dscover u ns  ati  monds. © 2008 Almond Board of California. All rights reserved.

The Almond Board of California is a partner of the World Pastry Cup 2009.

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10.6.08 ABC FS&I ALMF080336_Tart Pastry&BakingNA/Nov-Dec Ind CS3 to x1a 210x297 -10 mm +3mm all 100% R2 Rdupe Fran Parker 303.381.6504 AD is C.Hisle

Letter From The Editor

Big Things Ahead!

Read and Search Our Back Issues Before I get ahead of myself, I want to thank all those www.pastryna.com who contributed to the success of this magazine in 2008. There were a lot of late nights, coffee fueled design sessions and plenty of Papa John’s pizza. But in the end, Pastry & Baking North America put itself on the map with unparalleled coverage of the region’s dessert professionals along with a style and beauty deserving of our hard working readers. Thank you all very much!

Now, some exciting news: commencing in January 2009, all our back issues of both Pastry & Baking North America and Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific will be posted in digital magazine format on our website – www.pastryna.com. Additionally, visitors will be able to use key words and search this library of digital editions for recipes. How cool is that!

This leading edge technological offering comes courtesy of the very special people at Amoretti. Jack and Maral Barsoumian continue to demonstrate ground breaking commitment to promoting the arts of pastry, baking and dessert creation and we are very excited to have Amoretti on board as sponsor of our new Digital Editions department.

As we turn the corner into 2009, don’t forget this magazine is about you. Let us know what you think? What you like or dislike and how we can make this publication the best it can be. Thank you!

Regards,

Joseph Marcionette

Brought to you by: Editor-in-Chief Email: [email protected]

2 Pastry & Baking North America NLC 12728 Pastry&Bake SEPT08b 9/8/08 12:46 PM Page 1

ngaging customers Ewith fresh, gourmet chocolates and pastries has never been so easy. Many of the world’s leading establishments have already found the beautifully handcrafted creations of Norman Love Confections to be a valuable addition to their already impressive offering. Innovatively packaged for consistent and convenient delivery, Norman Love Confections puts the power of LOVE into your hands.

TO ORDER: REPRESENTED BY 11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, Florida 239.561.7215 • www.NormanLoveConfections.com 800.347.9477 • www.scff.com • E-mail: [email protected] astry&bakin P NORTH AMERICA g House Specials

24

6 24 Off The Wire The latest news, happenings, Ben’s Lab events and product updates for Ben Roche is the pastry chef at the well informed professional. Moto Restaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science after discovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach to pastry 14 is unconventional. Regional Showcase 34 Join P&B NA on a tour of North America and beyond as we 32 visit with and showcase talented professionals who share their Chef in Focus favorite recipes. Chicago based punk pastry provocateur Michelle Garcia serves up sweets with a pinch of tatitude at the Bleeding Heart 44 organic bakery and her newly Grand Gateaux launched Chaos Theory Cakes and Confections. As one of Australia’s most celebrated pastry chefs, Kirsten Tibballs presents Grand Gateaux and her 66 46 original take on great cakes.

Creative Cakes 62 Elisa Strauss from Confetti Cakes joins the publication and puts Wild Sweets forth the techniques and tools The Dubys dazzle with their leading required to create stunning, one of a kind cakes. edge approach to innovative creations.

4 Pastry & Baking North America astry&bakin P NORTH AMERICA g

Published by Synergy1 Group, Inc.

PUBLISHER Synergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lisa Dinges

SENIOR EDITOR Campbell Ross Walker

ASIA PACIFIC EDITOR Rachel Lee

NETWORK MANAGER Michael Ethier If your job SENIOR WRITERS David Martell, Laura Geatty is to create beautiful chocolate... Let another professional CORPORATE OFFICES: take care of the tempering! North America

PO Box 1662 Chocovision makes the best Ponte Vedra “tempering machine! Saves Florida 32004 me a lot time with no waste. Email: [email protected] A pastry chef’s best friend.!”

Asia Pacific

32 Maxwell Road #03-07 Pang Kok Keong White House Building Executive Pastry Chef Canele Patisserie Singapore 069115 Chocolaterie Fax: (65) 6323 1839

www.PastryNA.com Made in the USA

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 5. All rights reserved. © under Universal International and Pan American Copyright conventions. This publication is a creative work fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition and other applicable laws. www.Chocovision.com Looking for Distributors email [email protected] Off The Wire

News, events and happenings from around the region

Dessert FourPlay Iuzzini pairs cool with hot, crispy with creamy, sweet with spicy, and the expected – chocolate, strawberries, and cinnamon Created by Johnny Iuzzini, superstar pastry chef of the celebrated – with the unexpected – chiles, beets, and chocolatey puffs. four-star restaurant Jean Georges in New York, is a sophisticated The result: desserts that refresh, inspire, and satisfy beyond explosion of a familiar flavor that begins with the taste of expectations. Dessert FourPlay invigorates all the senses and strawberry rich on your tongue and ends with an effervescent inspires home cooks to create innovative desserts of their own. tingle in your nose. Far from the conventional slice of cake at the end of a meal, Johnny’s seasonal creations – four mini desserts in a quartet of complementary flavors and textures – are a culinary adventure. In Dessert FourPlay, he shares his secrets and inspirations, delivering standout recipes for incredible desserts that can be served alone or combined into his signature fourplay groupings, creating the perfect sweet finale for any meal. Throughout the book, Johnny offers tips on simplifying professional recipes and provides basic recipes for transcendent cakes, cookies, tuiles, ice creams, sorbets, granités, and more. These building blocks can be used to create magnificent multifaceted desserts, or they can be perfect desserts by themselves. Some recipes have surprising versatility: the shiny smooth chocolate glaze Johnny uses to ice cakes doubles as the ultimate hot fudge sauce; a lemony madeleine batter becomes a layer in a cake.

6 Pastry & Baking North America New Dog Bone Shape Flexipan Champions Join The From Demarle French Pastry School Demarle USA recently introduced their new Dog Bone shape Flexipan Gearing up to the meet the demand for enrollment mould. This new shape is perfectly designed to work well for making and maintain the level of excellent know throughout beautiful bite size baked, frozen, or chocolate treats hungry canines or the industry, The French Pastry School recently humans. This shape is sure to be a big hit with “dog friendly” bake shops, announced the addition of two world champion coffee shops, and patisseries who would like to bake healthy and safe instructors: En-Ming Hsu and Dimitri Fayard. treats for our best friends – both 2 and 4 legged. En-Ming Hsu joins the school as Chef Instructor These Flexipans come in two popular tray sizes; a 48 mould and returns to Chicago where she served as Executive arrangement for use in a Full Size 18 x 26 tray. And a 24 mould Pastry Chef at the Ritz-Carlton. Hsu led the United arrangement for use in a Half Size 13 x 18 tray. Flexipan moulds are States team to victory as their Team Captain at the made using the highest quality silicone materials integrated onto fiberglass World Pastry Cup in Lyon, France in 2001. That year, mesh material. These non-stick moulds are incredibly durable, never Hsu’s team won by the largest margin ever achieved. need greasing, and are NSF, FDA, and Kosher certified. Flexipan is the Hsu will begin teaching at The French Pastry School ideal choice for innovative bakery, pastry, chocolate, and frozen desert in January 2009, focusing on plated desserts creations. Flexipan products can be used at temperatures varying from instruction. -40ºF to 480ºF. “Bringing a World Champion to the team will Phone: 888 – FLEX-PAN greatly enhance the students’ learning, exposing them to another expert’s vision, passion and experience,” said Sebastien Canonne, M.O.F., co-owner and co- founder of The French Pastry School, “her students will benefit from her keen sense of art, design and creativity.” Dimitri Fayard also joins as a Chef Instructor after recently winning the 2008 Amoretti World Pastry Team Championship. In 2007, Dimitri was named one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America and student at The French Pastry School can look forward to yet another expert in flavor profiles, French cakes and tarts. “Dimitri shows great devotion to the art of pastry,” said Jacquy Pfeiffer, co-owner and co-founder of The French Pastry School. “He’ll be an inspiration ChocoGun to his students as someone who continually challenges himself.” Design & Realisation in Canada has created the ChocoGun. Designed to The French Pastry School, founded by Chefs control cocoa butter’s temperature at all times, this piece of equipment Jacquy Pfeiffer and Sebastien Canonne, M.O.F., offers balances the tricky relationship between cocoa butter and air pressure to the best possible pastry instruction taught by master achieve original decoration effects such as velvet, snow, granulated, orange pastry chefs who have attained the highest skin, dots, lines, etc. The spray gun is made entirely made of stainless steel achievements in their craft. Their programs are ideal with an extendable hose complete with quick connect attachments and for anyone interested in pastry from the career runs on 110 Volts / 250 Watts. For more information, visit www.dr.ca. changer to the professional to the novice. For more information on The French Pastry School please visit www.frenchpastryschool.com.

7 Off The Wire Felchlin Celebration In celebration of their 100 years of business, Felchlin is offering two distinct Centenario Jubilee chocolates.

Centenario Crudo (70%) Centuries ago, chocolate was celebrated in South America in a rustic form. Fire roasted beans were ground on a grindstone and processed in a very simple manner resulting in a chocolate with a coarse structure, having the cocoa and cane sugar still noticeable. Today, Felchlin is celebrating this tradition with Centenario Crudo whose taste profile is intense and untamed – highlighting secrets that have slumbered in oblivion for centuries. Available in 2 kg blocks.

Centenario Concha (70% 48h) Conching was invented in Switzerland 130 years ago with the tea, dried plums, mildly sweet bananas and refreshing orange. purpose of promoting frictional heat and release of volatiles. Available in 1.5g coins in 2 kg bags. With the Centenario Concha, Felchlin applies a 48 hour conch to this extraordinary chocolate resulting in developing the For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss hidden aromas and a robust cocoa taste with notes of black American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676.

8 Pastry & Baking North America DC DUBY Wild Sweets® Launches 2008 Limited Release Collection ‘Créme Brülée’

Every year, after months of research and development, DC DUBY Wild Sweets® launches a new Limited Release chocolate collection. The 2008 collection is titled Créme Brülée and its theme and inspiration is based on the Duby’s latest cookbook release of the same title. The Créme Brülée collection features 12 extravagant and uniquely customized variations of dessert recipes featured in the book. The design process began by selecting flavour profiles from the book recipes that were suitable to become delightful Créme Brülée chocolate confections. The second step was to provide the ‘burnt’ sugar flavour profile within each chocolates.

Of course, such exquisite edible jewels deserve equally luxurious packaging. The 2008 Collection is offered in our new exclusive gift ‘Valise’ packaging concept that presents the chocolates in a 2-piece box that includes 12 assorted hand-painted chocolates domes placed over 12 chocolate Créme Brülée squares, a printed Vellum menu as well as an autographed copy of the Créme Brülée book, all held together within†a black textured paper purse-shape ‘Valise’ complete with black cloth rope handles, satin ribbon and a DC DUBY silver metallic foiled crest. The complete Limited Release Créme Brülée collection ‘Valise’ retails for $59.95 (shipping and applicable tax not included) and will be available only through DC DUBY Wild Sweets Virtual Boutique starting on November 17, 2008. For more information or to purchase, please visit the Virtual Boutique located at www.dcduby.com Off The Wire

employees in 1990 to the premier baking resource with nearly King Arthur Flour Named 200 employees today; from a family-owned operation for five One of Wall Street Journal’s generations to a 100 percent employee-owned business. A Top Small Workplaces founding B Corporation, King Arthur Flour received the for 2008 Outstanding Vermont Business Award in 2006, the Best Place to Work in Vermont Award in 2006 and 2007, and the Better Employee-Owned Company Selected as One of Business Bureau Local Torch Award for Excellence in 2006. King Top 15 in North America by the Wall Street Arthur Flour offers more than 1,000 professional-grade baking Journal and Winning Workplaces tools and ingredients through its catalogue, online at kingarthurflour.com, and at The Baker’s Store in Norwich, Vt. King Arthur Flour of Norwich, Vt., was named today as one of Through its products, publications and national educational the 15 Top Small Workplaces in North America by the Wall programs, King Arthur Flour continues to strive toward its Street Journal and Winning Workplaces. More than 400 private, mission: To be a creative and profitable company that’s a product, nonprofit, and publicly held organizations applied for this year’s information, and education resource for, and inspiration to, honor. bakers worldwide. “We are delighted to be recognized as one of North America’s Top Small Workplaces. At King Arthur Flour, we work hard to honor the employee-owners who make this company successful – to acknowledge and respond to their needs, desires and interests as whole people. We strive to make King Arthur a place where people feel passionate about their work. Their enthusiasm inspires our great customer service, educational programs, and community and environmental stewardship,” says company spokesperson Allison Furbish. “Our philosophy has worked for us for over 200 years, and we hope our company can serve as a model for other organizations.” The Top Small Workplaces list, compiled in partnership with Winning Workplaces, a nonprofit whose mission is to help Florida Pastry Challenge small and midsize organizations create better workplaces, The 2008 Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show was recently held showcases exceptional employers that have built workplace at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, FL. The environments that foster teamwork, flexibility, and professional Show is produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, and growth while providing an atmosphere and benefits that sponsored by the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association. encourage employee loyalty. A national panel of small business One of the highlights of the show was the Florida Pastry Challenge experts chosen by the Journal and Winning Workplaces judged presented by The Culinary Source. the finalists based on specific metrics and qualitative assessments Open to ACF and Non-ACF Chefs, the competition consisted of their success in creating workplaces that nurture, challenge of three categories: Sugar, Chocolate and Students. Each and reward employees. contestant was responsible for incorporating the theme of “These small businesses are leading innovators and role “Florida Nature and Wildlife into their creations and in the end, models for larger companies,” said Larry Rout, editor of the Emmanuel Boscherel from Marco Island’s Sale e Pepe restaurant Journal Reports, The Wall Street Journal. “At a time when most took first place in Sugar with Mary Ellen Salanore from Norman employers are cutting back on employee benefits it is important Love Confections in Fort Myers capturing the Chocolate category. to recognize those organizations that are creating environments ean Pera from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, that encourage productive behavior and expanding programs NY who won 1 place in the Student Competition. to keep employees happy.” “The Top Small Workplaces have been in business an average of 42 years and have demonstrated that they can survive difficult economic times,” said Ken Lehman, Winning Workplaces’ founder and board chair. “By building strong cultures and gaining employee commitment to the success of the business, these organizations have thrived in good times and weathered bad ones. It is at times like these, with our nation facing almost unprecedented financial and economic challenges, that the real mettle of a strong workplace is demonstrated.” America’s oldest flour company, King Arthur Flour has grown from a regional staple to a brand known nationwide not only for its high-quality flours but for its passion in sharing the joy of baking; from a small mail-order business with five

10 Pastry & Baking North America Off The Wire

Global Baker Baking is Dean Brettschneider’s passion. Trained in New Zealand, he is currently based in Shanghai. In this, his fourth book, he shares his recipes for bread, pastries, cakes and desserts that reflect his broad international experience. There are also extensive instructions on techniques and ingredients and decoration tips. The text is accompanied by stunning photography by Aaron McLean. Clear technique shots, fabulous food photography and lifestyle shots taken in London, Paris, Belgium, Germany and Shanghai give this book a truly international flavor. Dean Brettschneider – A baker and patissier with an international following, Dean has worked in the USA, Britain, Europe, Middle East, Asia and the Pacific and is regarded as one of the most respected and knowledgeable bakers globally. He spends his time traveling in and around Asia Pacific and Europe creating an international following for exceptional baking and exploring new bakery trends, techniques and ideas. He has written four international award winning baking books.

Pastry & Baking Recruitment Site Founded by World Pastry Cup winner Christophe Michalak, Michalak Connect is a recruiting site dedicated to pastry and baking trades. Candidates can sign-up and post their CV, free of charge. They can receive Job Alerts, apply on line and follow the news related to their trade through the site’s blog. Recruiters can publish Premium or a Standard employment adds, which will remain on line for 45 days. By opening an account, recruiters are able to manage the applications, receive CV Alerts, visualize statistics and create a professional visit card. The Michalak Connect blog is made for them as well. Launched in August 2008, Michalak Connect reaches out to confirmed professionals, apprentices, finishing students and student trainees alike. Visit www.michalakconnect.com for more information. Off The Wire

in Paris as a chocolate maker prior to becoming chef chocolatier U.S. National Chocolate at the Wynn Hotel two years ago. He also won first prize at the Master competition on artistic pieces in Montargis, France, in March 2004, and received his honors diploma at the Académie Culinaire Wynn Hotel chocolatier wins U.S. National Chocolate de France in April 2004. Master title with his ‘haute couture’ chocolate sculpture. Clement will represent the United States at the prestigious 2009 World Chocolate Masters competition, where he will compete against representatives from 19 other countries, including Belgium, France, Switzerland, China, Australia and Brazil. The World Chocolate Masters competition will take place Oct. 14-16, 2009, in Paris at the Salon Du Chocolat Professionnel. The U.S. finals of the World Chocolate Masters were held at the French Culinary Institute in New York. The competition was sponsored by Barry Callebaut and its Chocolate Academy; as well as The Chocolate Show (Salon Du Chocolat); California Raisins; Neilsen Massey Vanillas; Mafter Bourgeat culinary products; Demarle non-stick baking products; Robot Coupe food processors; Chicago School of Mold Making; PCB pastry decorations; Grand Marnier – Navan natural vanilla liqueur and Knipschildt Chocolatier. Barry Callebaut – the world’s leading manufacturer of high- quality cocoa and chocolate products – recently announced that Lionel Clement, chef chocolatier at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas, won the U.S. finals of the World Chocolate Masters, a top-level competition for chocolate craftsmen from all over the world. Clement beat out four other pastry chefs and chocolatiers from some of the country’s leading hotels and restaurants on Sunday, Nov. 9, to be named the U.S. National Chocolate Master 2008-2009. As part of the competition, each participant created a large chocolate sculpture that conveyed the theme of this year’s competition – “Haute Couture” – using professional gourmet chocolate brands Callebaut, Cacao Barry, and Carma and the aesthetics of high fashion. They also showcased their skills by creating chocolate pastries, pralines, and a smaller chocolate showpiece made from special ingredients that were revealed to the contestants only a few minutes before the start of the competition. “Barry Callebaut designed this event to give pastry chefs and chocolatiers a forum to showcase their unique abilities to create works of art using fine chocolate,” said Sarah O’Neil, director of marketing for Barry Callebaut North America. “Whether their inspiration was an elegant hat or a chic dress, these talented chefs brought the haute couture theme to life with their unique culinary creations.” As part of the competition, a professional jury of top pastry chefs, including world-renowned chocolatier Jacques Torres, judged each contestant on their overall technical skills, as well as the presentation of their artistic showpieces, and the taste of their dipped pralines, moulded pralines, and chocolate pastry. Clement’s winning chocolate showpiece featured an exquisite silhouette of a woman’s face, with flowing hair and an elaborate hat made from different layers of chocolate that provided both dimension and texture. A graduate of the professional school “Les Sorbets” in Noirmoutier Island, France, Clement spent five years at Lenôtre

12 Pastry & Baking North America Jumbo Chocolate Fountain Qzina introduced the new Chocoa Jumbo Chocolate Stainless Steel Fountain available in November 2008. Just in time for Christmas, the fountain will be available in both Canada and the USA. The jumbo chocolate fountain stands 26.4” (67cm) tall and 12.6” (32cm) wide a capacity of up to 3kg (6.6lb) of delicious ready-to-be-dipped chocolate! This heavy duty fountain is primarily for commercial use, suitable for hotels, restaurants and catering services. The jumbo chocolate fountain comes with a full stainless steel tower, auger, digital soft-touch switch pad, and a removable heat basin that is easy to clean. The fountain will be sold in a retail box with both English and French labeling. QZINA is the largest North American seller, marketer, importer and distributor of gourmet professional chocolates and specialty dessert ingredients. Qzina distributes a wide range of imported, domestic chocolate and pastry ingredients to the gourmet, commercial and industrial customer segments, with eight key geographic locations. Qzina professionals have an expert knowledge of gourmet pastry ingredients and chocolate, creating applications and trends to serve Qzina customers. QZINA Specialty Foods North America, Inc. For more information about QZINA visit www.qzina.com.

30th SIGEP

The 30th edition of SIGEP will be unforgettable as the International Exhibition of Artisan Ice cream, Confectionery and Bakery Production returns to Rimini Fiera from the 17-21st of January 2009. In addition to the three main events being held – The Gelato is Served, Delicious & Famous and SIGEP Bread Cup – SIGEP 2009 will also present “Sicily Days”, an entire day celebrating Sicily’s famous confectionery products. Explore the history behind cassata, cannoli, granita, ricotta, Martorana fruit, Modica chocolate and sorbets, all specialties originating in Sicily. Master confectioner Luciano Pennati will he on hand to demonstrate his creations allowing visitors to witness the production and taste the profiles behind some of the region’s famous creations. For more information on SIGEP and “Sicily Days” visit www.sigep.it. Regional Showcase 14 Pastry & Baking North America introducing... astry&bakin P NORTH AMERICA g The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals. Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results. Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques. Step by step instruction from our world-renowned panel of Guest Contributors. Truly regional coverage of hard working professionals who share their experiences, stories and advice. Complimentary online site for recipe archives and educational videos.

Subscribe online at www.PastryNA.com Regional Showcase The Georgian (Black and White Chocolate Soufflé) Yield: 4-5 individual soufflés 2. In a separate bowl, combine yolks and sugar. Pour boiling liquid over yolk Soufflé and sugar mixture. Stir. Place back on 1 cup milk stove over low heat, cook for 21/2 tbsp sugar approximately 1 minute while stirring. 51/2 tbsp butter Remove and strain. Chill. Serve with 81/2 tbsp bread flour (sifted) soufflé. 5 whole eggs (separated) 5 tbsp sugar 5 tbsp white chocolate shavings Your Notes (or small chocolate chunks) 5 tbsp dark chocolate shavings (or small chocolate chunks)

1. Boil milk and 21/2 tbsp of sugar. 2. In a separate pan, melt butter. Once butter is melted, add flour and cook slightly. 3. Add flour and butter mixture to milk and stir over low heat until thickened. Remove from heat and place in a mixer with a paddle on low speed. Mix until cooled, about 15 minutes. 4. Separate egg yolks from egg whites. Add yolks to mix and mix slightly. Add chocolate shavings until combined. Do not over mix. Remove from mixer. 5. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites with 5 tbsp sugar until stiff peaks form. 6. Fold beaten egg whites into mixture/soufflé base. Brush butter and dust sugar into soufflé ramekins before filling them to 1/4 inch below the rim. 7. Bake in water bath at 375°F for 20-25 minutes.

Vanilla Cream Sauce 11/2 cups heavy cream 1/2 cup milk 4 yolks 5 tbsp sugar 1 vanilla bean

1. Cut and scrape vanilla bean seeds into heavy cream and milk. Bring to a boil.

Artis Kalsons Executive Pastry Chef

The Fairmont Olympic Hotel 411 University Street Seattle, Washington Seattle

16 Pastry & Baking North America The Georgian (Black and White Chocolate Soufflé)

17 Regional Showcase Brioche Bread Pudding Brioche Pudding 350g/12.4 oz cooking red wine 8 one-inch thick slices brioche bread 2 ea cinnamon stick Your Notes 230g/8 oz heavy cream 3 ea star anis 230g/8 oz milk 1 ea lemon rind 48g/1.9 oz yolk 120g/4.2 oz egg 1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. 70g/2.5 oz sugar 2. Peel and cut the bottom of the pears. pinch vanilla extract Place in a hotel pan. Add sugar, wine, pinch cinnamon spices and lemon rind. Cover with pinch nutmeg aluminum foil and bake it for 1 hour. 100 g/3.5 oz raisin Keep the pears in syrup over night. 70 g/2.8 oz butter Caramel Orange Tuile 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 100g/3.5 oz sugar 2. Grease the bottom and sides of a 25g/1 oz AP flour medium muffin dish. 40g/1.4 oz orange juice 3. Cut the loaf of bread into cubes. Toss 50g/1.9 oz butter together the bread cubes and raisins then put them in medium bowl. 1. Use a paddle attachment, beat sugar 4. Whip together the melted butter, eggs, and butter in a mixing bowl until well milk, cream, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla combined. Add flour and orange juice. and nutmeg. Spread on silpat using a round 5. Pour the liquid mixture over the bread template and bake until golden brown. cubes and raisins. Scoop the mixture 2. Curve the tuile while it is still hot into prepared mold Bake the pudding using the mold. for about 45 minutes or until set. Vanilla Anglaise White Chocolate Cranberry Ice Cream 250g/9 oz milk 130g/4.6 oz sugar 150g/5.4 oz cream 250g/9 oz milk 90g/3.2 oz sugar 500g/18 oz cream 180g/6.4 oz yolk 5 ea yolks 10g/0.5 oz vanilla bean paste 230g/8 oz white chocolate (chopped) 35g/1.3 oz dried cranberry 1. Boil the cream, milk, vanilla bean paste and half of the sugar. 1. Combine 1/2 of sugar and egg yolk. Set 2. Whip the yolks and half of the sugar. a side. 3. Temper the yolks with the cream and 2. Combine the rest of sugar, milk, cream cook the anglaise for a few minutes. in sauce pan, bring to a boil. 3. Temper with egg mixture and whisk Assembly: in chopped white chocolate and 1. Place the bread pudding on the center cranberries. Chill in the refrigerator of the plate along with the orange tuile over night before proceed in ice cream and vanilla anglaise. machine. 2. Thinly slice the poached pears and Spiced Poached Pear place on the side of the pudding. 6 ea Sekle pears 3. Serve with quenelle of white chocolate 200g/7 oz sugar cranberry ice cream.

Deden Putra Executive Pastry Chef

Beverly Wilshire A Four Seasons Hotel 9500 Wilshire Boulevard Beverly Hills, California Tel: 310-275-5200 Beverly Hills

18 Pastry & Baking North America Brioche Bread Pudding

19 Regional Showcase Strawberries and Angel Food Rhubarb Strawberry Parfait, Vanilla Rice Pudding, Strawberry Caramel Angel Food Cake Heat the champagne with the sugar and Strawberry Caramel 10 egg whites vanilla until the sugar is dissolved. 4 cup sugar 1 tsp salt Pour the warm syrup over the diced 2/3 cup water 1 tsp cream of tartar strawberries and chill. 3 tbsp light corn syrup 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 1pint raspberries 1 cup granulated sugar Strawberry Sherbet 1 cup strawberry puree 1 cup all purpose flour, sifted 2 x 2 qts strawberry puree 4 tbsp granulated sugar, sifted 1 qt fresh rhubarb Place the sugar, water, and corn syrup in 3 cup granulated sugar a heavy bottom sauce pan and cook until 1. Whip egg whites, salt, cream of tartar, 1 cup light corn syrup soft ball. and vanilla until soft peaks form. 2 cup water Once the sugar is at softball stage, add 2. Slowly add 1cup of sugar to whipping 1/2 cup buttermilk the raspberries and strawberry puree. whites until soft shiny peaks form. Cook the fruit in the sugar until all of Combine the strawberry puree, rhubarb, 3. Combine flour and sifted sugar and the fruit juice is extracted and the mixture sugar, corn syrup, and water in a large fold into the egg whites. boils rapidly. sauce pot and bring to a boil. 4. Lightly coat a loaf pan in butter and Carefully remove the hot sauce from the Let the mixture simmer for 10 minutes, stove and transfer to a blender. sugar and scoop the angel food batter then strain through a fine mesh sieve. Blend the sauce to thoroughly combine into the pan. Chill the sherbet base then add the and then, strain the sauce through a fine 5. Bake the cake in a 325°F convection buttermilk. mesh sieve. oven until lightly golden and the cake Churn the sherbet in an ice cream springs back to the touch. machine and freeze. Chill the caramel before transferring into a sauce bottle for plating. The sauce will Rice Pudding Rhubarb Consommé thicken once cool. 11/2 cup water 8 rhubarb stalks, trimmed and clean Tuile Batter 3/4 cup rice, uncooked arborio 1/2 pint strawberries 12 oz unsalted butter, soft 2 cup whole milk 2 tsp vanilla extract 3/4 cup honey 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1cup granulated sugar 23/4 cup all purpose flour 1/4 tsp salt 3 cup water 3 cup powdered sugar 1 egg, beaten 10 gelatin sheets, bloomed 6 egg whites 1 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp pink peppercorn, crushed 1/2 tsp vanilla extract Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, vanilla, sugar, and water in a large sauce Cream together the butter and honey. Boil the water and add rice, stir and cover pot and bring to a boil. Sift together the flour and powdered for 20 minutes over medium heat. Blend the hot fruit mixture and strain 1 sugar and add to the creamed butter. Stir in 1 /2 cup milk, sugar, and salt to the through a fine mesh sieve. cooking rice and continue to cook for 15 Add the egg whites to the butter mixture, Transfer the fruit puree to a container – 20 minutes. followed with the crushed pink lined with cheese cloth and allow the Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup milk and egg, peppercorns and mix well. puree to strain through the cloth. Repeat cook for 2 more minutes. Spread the tuile batter into desired shape this step twice until a clear “consommé” Remove the pudding from the heat and onto a silicon baking mat and bake in a is achieved. stir in the butter and vanilla. 325°F degree convection oven for 4-5 Melt the bloomed gelatin over low heat minutes until lightly golden. Strawberry Compote and whisk into the rhubarb consommé. Carefully remove the cookies from the 2 cup strawberries, diced Pour the consommé onto a flat *sheet hot tray and cool. 1 cup champagne tray and allow the mixture to set-up. Once the cookies are cool place them in 1 /4 cup granulated Sugar Once the gelatin has set, slice the an airtight container to use for plating 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped consommé into small cubes for plating. the dessert.

Megan Garrelts Owner/Pastry Chef

Bluestem Kansas City Missouri www.bluestemkc.com Kansas City

20 Pastry & Baking North America Strawberries and Angel Food

21 Regional Showcase Sherry-Poached Pears with a Pear and Raisin Compote and Maple-Roasted Walnuts Yield: 4 servings Preheat oven to 325°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk Poached and Roasted Pears together honey and butter and brush 4 ripe Bartlett pears onto one sheet of filo dough. Place the 11/4 c oloroso sherry other sheet on top and flatten with a 1/3 c sugar rolling pin. Brush the top with honey 1/2 orange zest butter. Cut the dough into dime-thick 1/4 tsp ground black pepper strips and lay them out on the baking 1/4 c raisins sheet. Bake about 10 minutes until golden 2 tbsp honey brown. 1/2 lemon juice Assembly: Peel, core and slice off the bottom half of Roughly chop walnuts and toss with each pear. Dice the bottom halves and set roasted pear mixture. Divide the pear aside. Place pear tops in a medium and walnut mixture among four ring saucepan with sherry, sugar and orange moulds the same diameter as the pear zest and simmer until tender, tops, pressing down gently with the back approximately 1 hour. Allow to cool. of a spoon. Carefully remove rings. Place Remove pear tops from the liquid and set the poached pear on top and drizzle aside. Heat 3/4 cup of the liquid on sherry reduction over the pear. Sprinkle medium heat until reduced to a syrup, filo strips around the pear to look like approximately 15 minutes. a zest.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a small roasting pan, combine diced pears, black Your Notes pepper, raisins, honey and lemon juice. Roast this mixture in the oven, stirring periodically until the pears are tender but not mushy, approximately 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Maple-Roasted Walnuts 3/4 c walnuts 1/4 c maple syrup

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread nuts on a baking sheet and lightly toast them in the oven for 10 minutes. Shake off and discard the skins from the nuts. Drizzle the nuts with maple syrup and toss to coat. Return to the oven and, stirring every 5 minutes, bake until all the maple syrup has crystallized, approximately 20 minutes.

Crispy Filo 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 2 sheets filo dough

Rhonda Vianni Pastry Chef

West 2881 Granville Street Vancouver, Canada Tel: 604.738.8938 www.westrestaurant.com Vancouver

22 Pastry & Baking North America Sherry-Poached Pears with a Pear and Raisin Compote and Maple-Roasted Walnuts

23 Ben’s Lab

Frozen Shredded Mango (Cheese)

Welcome to Ben’s Lab, the place where madness and mayhem take a vacation together, then come back home and go to work. Today I’ll demonstrate how to ‘transmogrify’ mangoes into a tasty sorbet that looks and behaves like shredded cheese. You may be wondering what exactly Publisher’s Note: Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto ‘transmogrification’ entails. Well, I like to describe it as taking one ingredient Restaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science after (or food product) and transforming it, reconstructing it if you will, into discovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach to a completely different food product that visually and texturally behaves pastry is unconventional, to say the least. In addition to his pastry chef duties, chef Roche also runs Roche Original like said food product. I also like to say that the difference between a satellite Concepts LLC, an organization focused on food design, and a U.F.O. is... well, it’s exactly that... Let us proceed: product development, and creative consultation.

Equipment Needed: Mango sorbet base (cold) Metal bain marie ( 4-6” cylindrical container) Insulated container (Styrofoam cooler) Liquid nitrogen (LN2) (10 liters) Cutting board Knife Gallon measuring cup for hot water Plastic wrap Large food processor (like Robot Coupe) with grating attachment Strainer or slotted spoon (to retrieve grated cheese) Metal container to hold grated cheese

Other Items Needed for Nachos: Sweetened tortilla chips Lime yogurt Strawberry salsa Chocolate ground beef Bowl for serving

24 Pastry & Baking North America 1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

1. Fill metal bain marie with mango sorbet mix. 2. Place bain in Styrofoam cool and slowly fill with LN2. 3. Pour small amounts of LN2 on top to slowly form a layer of ice, top with LN2. 4. Freeze mixture solid, place in freezer to temper for 1 hour. 5. Dip frozen container in hot water or warm with torch to release sides. 6. Turn sorbet out on cutting board. 7. Cut in half with hot knife. 8. Wrap in plastic, let temper in refrigerator until firm, but slightly 7. 8. softened (not soft).

25 Ben’s Lab

9. 10. 11.

12. 13. 14.

9-10. Grate sorbet in food processor into LN2.

11. Retrieve cheese shards from LN2 with strainer and place into holding container in freezer.

12. To assemble the dish, place candied tortilla chips in bowl and top with fruit salsa.

13. Pipe on several ‘dollops’ of thick, lime flavored yogurt.

14-15. Top with chocolate ground beef 15. and frozen mango ‘cheese’.

26 Pastry & Baking North America 27 Artisan Baker

Stolen

hy is it that when you mention Stollen to some people, they cringe with horror? Perhaps it was their memory of hard, burnt fruit that practically broke a tooth. Or Wmaybe the fact that it was sitting for ages on the shelves of some discount department store and the dry, crumbly mass had little to be desired. If this has been their only experience of Stollen, then I can completely understand their lack of enthusiasm. However, I am here to dispel the notion that all Stollen is unpleasant. Stollen can be flavorful, moist, and enjoyable, as long as you follow a few simple tips. First off, a little history. Stollen is said to have originated in Dresen, Germany during the 1400s. Originally it was made without butter due to church restrictions and pre-Christmas fasting rules. The lack of butter resulted in a very dry product, and it is from this origin that Stollen receives its dry reputation. It was not until 1650 when Prince Ernest von Sachsen appealed to the Pope to lift the restriction of using butter Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair for the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson & during Advent. Thanks to this petition, we now have the opportunity Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has been to enjoy Stollen the way that it was intended to be eaten during the recognized both nationally and internationally with numerous Advent season: as a traditionally-shaped Stollen rich in butter, candied awards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published two fruit, and flavorful spices. So, if you are still convinced that Stollen has DVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book, Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008. to be dry, you may still be living in a time gone by when Stollen was More information on Ciril and his work can be found on his prepared without one of its key ingredients. web site: www.breadhitz.com. Besides butter, there are some other key ingredients that contribute to a successful Stollen and cannot be overlooked. First off is candied or dried fruit. Personally, I like to soak the fruit in the syrup mixture BIGA well in advance; the best is if you soak them anywhere from 1 day to up to 2 months prior to use. The longer the fruit soaks, the more flavor Ingredients Metric Pounds % and moisture is infused into the fruit. Bread flour 1000g 2# 3.2 oz 100 The second ingredient is almond paste. I have fond memories as a Milk 600g 1# 5.1 oz 60 child of eating Stollen and “discovering” the soft almond paste in the Yeast, Instant 1g .03 oz .1 center. It’s what I grew up with, and so all Stollen I make has this 1. Combine all of the above ingredients till a smooth ingredient, but if you do not care for it or if there are nut allergy concerns, consistency is achieved. then simply leave it out. 2. Cover container and allow to ferment overnight at room The last item that can put your Stollen over the top is the addition temperature. of the sugar coating. The sugar is both a visual treat and a natural preservative to lengthen the shelf life. I like to use a vanilla sugar. To make it, simply place a couple of vanilla beans together with your sugar FINAL DOUGH in an airtight, plastic container. After some time, the vanilla essence of Ingredients Metric Pounds % the beans will permeate throughout the sugar. As a personal treat I like to cover the Stollen first with granulated sugar and then with powdered Bread flour 1500g 3# 4.8 oz 100 sugar on the following day. This gives just a bit more of a textural Whole eggs 400g 14.1 oz 26.6 experience than using powdered sugar alone. Milk 200g 7 oz. 13.3 It is my pleasure to share with you one of my personal favorite Granulated sugar 350g 12.3 oz 23.3 formulas for the Holiday season. If you use quality ingredients along Yeast, instant 60g 2.1oz 4 with a little bit of time, then your family and customers will be treated Salt 50g 1.7 oz 3.3 to a delicious, flavorful, and moist Stollen that will hopefully erase any negative Stollen memories of the past. Butter, Plugra 670g 1# 7.6 oz 44.6

28 Pastry & Baking North America FINAL DOUGH CONT. Ingredients Metric Pounds % Vanilla 60g 2.1 oz 4 Lemon zest, fresh 2 each 2 each Cinnamon, ground 10g .35 oz .6 Dark Rum 120g 4.2 8 Simple Syrup As needed As needed Raisins, dark 1200g 2# 10.3 80 Raisins, golden 600g 1# 5.1 oz 40 Dried cranberries 600g 1# 5.1 oz. 40 Dried apricots, cubed 450g 15.8 oz. 30 Slivered almonds, toasted 450g 15.8 oz. 30 Pre-ferment 1600 3# 8.4 oz 106.6

1. Macerate the dried fruit in rum and top off with simple syrup until it reaches the top of the fruit. Let sit at room temperature for a minimum of overnight and up to 2 months. Note: If macerating for a longer period, store the fruit and syrup mixture in the fridge. The night before baking, remove from fridge and let come to room temperature. 2. Drain the liquid that has not been absorbed from the macerated fruit. 3. Combine the preferment, yeast, eggs, flour, sugar, cinnamon, and salt until the dough comes together on 1st speed, around 4 minutes. 4. Slowly incorporate the butter on 2nd speed and mix until a well-developed gluten window is attained. 5. Gently incorporate the nuts and fruit. 6. Work on the table with some flour into a smooth, round shape. 7. Allow a bulk fermentation of 1 hour. Give the dough a stretch and fold and allow another 1/2 rest time. 8. Divide into desired size (400g or 14 oz) and work round. 9. Allow an additional resting time of 20 minutes, then work the dough into torpedo-like shapes and divide in half with a wooden dowel. 10.Roll indentation out into desired shape, fill with almond paste mixture, and allow about 1 hour for final proof. The Stollen should double in size. 11.Bake at 350ºF in a convection oven until golden brown (about 20-25 minutes). While still hot, brush the Stollen with clarified butter (around 450g for this formula). 12.Dust after buttering with granulated sugar, then let cool overnight before dusting with powdered sugar.

Optional Filling

Ingredients Metric Pounds Almond Paste 700g 1# 8 oz. Egg whites 60g 2 oz. Lemon zest 1 lemon 1 lemon

With a paddle, work the almond paste smooth and then add the zest. Slowly introduce the egg whites until a soft consistency is achieved. It should not be so sticky that you need flour to roll out the logs on the table. Artisan Baker

2.

3.

1. 4.

5. 6. 7.

1. After the dough has been fully developed, add the drained 5. Place the pre-rolled log of almond paste in the middle macerated fruit to the dough. Finish by working the dough on of the extended membrane (optional). a floured table by hand to form a smooth mass. 6. Take one of the dough “lips” and fold it over the 2. This is what a properly developed dough with all the fruit folded almond paste and place it just short of the other in looks like. This well-developed window will cover and protect “lip”. Then make an indent into the back third of the the fruit from burning during the bake. Stollen with a dowel to seal off the almond paste 3. After the bulk fermentation stage, divide the dough into the section. desired weight increments and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Then 7. After the baking, place the Stollen on a sheet pan or using a dowel, press down to “split” the dough in half (but do wire rack and brush it twice with some clarified not actually press through to the bottom.) butter. Wait about one minute before covering with 4. Working on a well-floured surface, roll this indentation until it granulated sugar. If coating with powdered sugar, stretches to about 4-5 inches. Make sure that the dough does not make sure that the Stollen is completely cool (it is tear during this procedure. best to let cool overnight.)

30 Pastry & Baking North America 31 Chef in Focus

Michelle Garcia serves up sweets with a pinch of tatitude.

By Natalie Slater Photography by Bill Lambert

32 Pastry & Baking North America 33 Chef in Focus

he moon lingers in the sky over Chicago’s Roscoe Village neighborhood. People huddle at the bus stop, tucking their faces into their collars against the frigid Tlake breeze. Across the street, a renovated vintage neon sign proclaims “Organic Bakery,” and like a ransom note on the storefront, mismatched letters spell out “Bleeding Heart.” The sweet smell of brownies in the air is enough to tempt a few away from their post on the corner. Another bus will come, but buttery, flaky layers of a warm chocolate croissant with The Clash blaring in the background- that’s the breakfast of champions. It’s all tattoos and smiles behind the counter as two busy pastry school interns pack up signature Take a Hike scones – a hearty vegan biscuit made with dried fruit and flax seeds- and pour coffee, fair trade organic, of course. The horde of clamoring customers, from the bike messengers in ripped jeans to the well- heeled ladies headed to the Financial District, take their time choosing between Ginger Cream scones and shortbreads glittering with sea salt. Darting in and out of the kitchen, carefully displaying whiskey- and-chocolate infused cupcakes named for punk rock icon Sid Vicious, and bacon-speckled banana brownies simply named The Elvis, is the 30-year-old pastry chef behind the madness. Her blue Mohawk flattened under her chef’s cap, she stops briefly to straighten out a cupcake-shaped table and she’s off. There’s bread to bake. Over-the-top wedding cakes to sketch and let’s not forget the pilot she’s shooting for a reality series with Film Garden Entertainment. When she isn’t in the kitchen or making deliveries she’s scouting out sustainable packaging options at

34 Pastry & Baking North America 35 Chef in Focus

trade shows and cheering on the Windy City Rollers, her local roller derby team. The tattoo on her throat reads, “revolution,” after all, and no one ever said revolution was easy. The yet-to-be-named TV show is still in the early stages, but you might recognize Garcia from her appearances on Food Network Challenge. Her sculpted cakes are daring and fanciful, but her commitment to sustainable organic foods and eco- friendly packaging and ingredients is often a challenge for her competition pieces. In the Extreme Cake Challenge Garcia’s refusal to use Styrofoam cake forms was ultimately her downfall but she bounced back and has gone on to place high on the scorecards in other challenges. Win or lose, this punk rock pastry chef prefers to always do things her way. “People are always commenting, ‘organic and punk rock? I don’t see how that goes together,’” says Garcia, “But I feel the whole point of being punk rock is battling against what people think is the social norm. I want everyone to wake up and see the big picture.’” At 14 years old, the Chicago suburbs native moved into a school for “troubled kids.” She often found herself placed on kitchen disciplinarian duty. There she learned baking fundamentals from the school’s chef, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who made her own brioche for French toast each morning. “I started getting into trouble on purpose so I could hang out with her,” Garcia says laughingly. At 17, Garcia left school to travel the country, only stopping in one place long enough to get a job in some kitchen, learn a new skill, make a little money and move on. Garcia returned

36 Pastry & Baking North America to Chicago at 19 and started her culinary training at Kendall College. Still a rebellious teenager, she didn’t commit to her studies. “The teachers always told me ‘you’re so good at this, if you’d only apply yourself,” she recalls. After taking a year off, Garcia enrolled in The French Pastry School where she excelled at sugar work and candy making. She’s still in close contact with the school’s co-founder, Sebastien Canonne, MOF, and participates in the annual For the Love of Chocolate charity event the school sponsors. After graduating, Garcia started working for Katrina Markoff, founder of Vosges Haut Chocolat. “I really looked up to Katrina and what she’d done with the color purple,” she says, referring to the chocolate company’s instantly recognizable packaging. And these early lessons in branding stuck with the impressionable chef as she came to realize that quality in product is only half the equation. These days Garcia’s acid yellow, neon blue and hot pink logo is as recognizable as her leopard print cupcake papers. She is the punk pastry chef, known all over the world thanks to a frequently updated Flickr account and a popular My Space profile. Chef in Focus

While helping to develop recipes for the mini cakes at Vosges, Garcia started to attract her own customer base at Chicago’s Green City Market with her organic baked goods. “I grew up eating organic foods,” she says, “my parents were doctors and even then they knew it was the way to go health-wise.” Pregnant with her first child, Gabriel, Garcia spent her down time at home taking business courses online. After eight months of selling at farmer’s markets Garcia felt comfortable that she’d built a loyal clientele and, with her husband- turned-cake-decorator Vinny, opened up her first retail space on Chicago Avenue in 2005. Remarkably, The Bleeding Heart Bakery was already turning a profit after only 6 months. The aptly named Bleeding Heart Bakery is more than a sweet shop; it’s a model for sustainable business. Using only local, organic ingredients, Garcia has actually met the chickens that lay the eggs she uses. A stint under Siemon de Jong and Noam Offer at Amsterdam’s De Taart d’ M’n Tante opened her eyes to the wastefulness of conventional American bakeries. “People here get frustrated with seasonal pastries, ‘Why don’t you have strawberries in the winter?’ Where in the Midwest do you see strawberries growing in the winter?” But a commitment to seasonal organics and conserving resources extends beyond a few sticks of butter, and Garcia has taken this into account with her biodegradable packaging, refurbished used cafe furniture and even a hybrid delivery vehicle. Each month she

38 Pastry & Baking North America creates a charity cupcake with proceeds going directly to local causes such as Girls Rock! Chicago – which sponsors music education for young women – to her recent line of Obama cakes that supported the Democratic candidate’s campaign. “If McCain won the election,” she says, “I was headed right back to Amsterdam.” Three years after invading the Ukrainian Village, and after the birth of her second child, Sophie, Garcia relocated to Belmont and Damen Avenues, just a few blocks away from Clark and Belmont, the punk rock capital of Chicago. The location, she says, was part of her effort to give back to the communities she’d taken from in her teenage years. Having been homeless on the streets of that very neighborhood, she felt opening up shop here was a good way to say “thank you for letting me be who I was then and I hope you like who I am now.” Early morning lines, most time out the door, for hearty cranberry cookies and ham and cheese croissants suggests the neighborhood does, in fact, like who she is now. Ask any toddler at Fellger Park kiddy corner about Bleeding Heart and they’re sure to say their favorite cupcakes come from the “tattooed lady” across the street. The stroller crowd has made this place their own, which Garcia loves, but it became more and more obvious to Garcia this wasn’t the place to showcase her French pastries. In August Michelle and Vinny opened Chaos Theory Cakes and Confections in the posh Lincoln Park neighborhood. With its graffitied walls and pricey cake slices – $14 for a slice of spinach cake with green apples and onion mousse for two – it’s Garcia’s pet project. Whereas Bleeding Heart is where she expresses herself as a wife, mother of two and true-blue punk rocker, Chaos Theory is where Michelle Garcia, the serious pastry chef, comes to play. Sandwiched between a handful of

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www.PastryNA.com INNOVATION IN CHOCOLATE

Dobla is a member of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 25-26 january 2009, Lyon (France)

Recipe made by Jack Schepers, Benelux Export Manager, Dobla BV. Jack used the Dobla ‘Ring oval dark’, the Dobla ‘Forest

5344 - www.fbd.be shaving dark’ and the Dobla ‘X-Mas strip’ to decorate.

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5344 Ad Pastry & Baking USA_v3.indd 1 13-10-2008 14:31:18 Chef in Focus

PEACH AND CORN MOUSSE CAKE

Makes 11/2 sheet mousse cake in pan extender

Corn Jaconde 492g almond TPT (half almond flour, 1/2 10x) 69g AP flour 328g whole eggs 44g melted butter 225g egg whites 340g sucrose 600g fresh corn

1. Whip the whites and the yolks separately to soft peaks splitting the sucrose between the two evenly. 2. Temper the yolks into the whites, fold both together and sift the tpt and four on top of the mixture while folding. 3. Add butter and mix swiftly, careful not to deflate the jaconde. 4. Spread evenly onto two 1/2 sheet pans lined with parchment and sprinkle with fresh corn. 5. Bake for approximately 8 minutes at 325ºF. 6. Cool.

Peach Mousse 900g sweetened roasted peaches - pureed trendy bars, Chaos Theory is Garcia’s upscale offering. “When it 800g heavy cream comes down to it, other bakeries pay $40 for a case of butter and I 11g gelatin pay $140 for a case of organic butter.” she says, “I can’t charge what 50g warm water other people charge so I feel like I need to offer an atmosphere that 75g heavy cream demands the kind of prices I have to charge.” Thus far, Chaos Theory has met with mixed reviews. Faithful 1. Dissolve gelatin in warm water, mix with 75g of followers of Garcia’s work praise Chaos for it’s “grown up” aesthetics heavy cream. and challenging flavors like cilantro cupcakes and avocado mousse 2. Whip 800g heavy cream to soft peaks. Temper cakes with balsamic vinegar and black peppercorns – ideas inspired roasted peach puree with heavy cream and fold by Rudolph van Veen. Naysayers question the logic of a savory dessert, together. Add gelatin and whisk briefly. and often mistakenly compare the patisserie with the slew of cupcake shops that have popped up all over Chicago in the past few years. 3. Mold immediately. “It’s scary,” Garcia admits about opening a niche pastry shop in a struggling economy. “The idea was to give the cakes a home and Chantilly Cream enhance that part of the business, but right now the space is just barely 545g heavy cream paying for itself.” Having just secured the permit to build a kitchen in 60g 10X powdered sugar Chaos Theory she plans on hosting an organic brunch on weekends 340g sour cream and renting the colorful space out for private parties. Meanwhile, her 11g gelatin motley crew of tattooed pastry school interns and touring-musicians- 50g warm water turned-baristas serve up a much needed kick in the taste buds to an 75g heavy cream otherwise sugar free strip of Lincoln Avenue. 216g corn The sun is just coming up in the window of Chicago’s most subversive 1. Dissolve gelatin in warm water and mix with pastry shop and over a cup of coffee and the sound of Iron Maiden 75g heavy cream. playing in the kitchen, Michelle Garcia considers the possibility of opening a cupcake shop in Amsterdam or maybe a donut shop in 2. Whip 345g heavy cream with 60g 10x to soft Austin, Texas. Wherever the rebel baker goes, her fans are sure to follow. peaks. “If you make things you love,” she says, “other people will love them 3. Fold sour cream into whip cream. Whisk together too.” And so far she’s been right on. with gelatin and mold quickly.

41 Chef in Focus

42 Pastry & Baking North America Caramel Sauce 400g evaporated cane juice 200g heavy cream

Bring cane juice to desired caramel color and add warm cream. Whisk together for approx. 5 minutes and cool.

Simple Syrup 157g simple syrup (50 percent water, 50 percent sugar)

Assembly 1. Line 1/2 sheet pan with acetate paper and pan extender. Evenly spread sliced seared peaches. 2. Spread peach mousse evenly on top of the seared peaches. 3. Gently place 1 layer of jaconde on top of the mousse and brush with simple syrup, then caramel sauce and the rest of the seared peaches. Seared Peaches 4. Spread chantilly cream evenly over first layer of 600g sliced ripe peaches jaconde and cover with last layer of jaconde. 75 g butter 5. Freeze overnight. 160g evaporated cane juice 6. Flip cake over release cake by using a torch to the 1. Heat butter in sauté pan, add peaches and sauté. Once peaches get sides carefully. a slight brown edge, add evaporated cane juice and sauté until 7. Slice into desired portions. sugar has coated all sides of peaches. 8. We garnish each slice with a freeze dried corn tuile 2. Slide peaches onto sheet pan to cool. and quenelle of créme fraiche whipped cream.

43 Grand Gateaux

Coffee Ambre Rich chocolate brownie covered with a layer of Publisher’s Note: Kirsten Tibballs is one of caramelised banana cream, coffee mousse and sesame Australia’s most celebrated and internationally nougatine disc, completed with a caramel glaze and respected pastry chefs. Specialising in chocolate chocolate mousse garnish. and patisserie, Kirsten is the Australian Ambassador for Callebaut and Cacao Barry Chocolate and she established the Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School in I created this entremet for the birthday of one of Australia’s most celebrated Melbourne in 2002. For more information visit artists. The flavour is a classic combination that is reflected in the final appearance. www.savourschool.com.au

Ingredients Callebaut Dark Couverture 53.8% Callebaut Grenade Couverture 60% Callebaut Caramel Chocolate Rum Mascarpone Cheese Gold Gelatine Sheets Espresso

Equipment Demarle Flexipan Mini-Drop (Ref 1144) Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548) Silpat mat Disposable piping bag No. 9 plain round piping nozzle Angled palette knife Sieve 20cm diameter round cake boards Compressor and spray gun

44 Pastry & Baking North America Brownie Base Nougatine Sesame 310g Callebaut Dark Couverture 53.8% 125g Butter 225g Unsalted Butter 100g Caster Sugar 3 Eggs 50g Honey 190g Caster Sugar 50g Glucose 125g Plain Flour 165g Sesame Seeds 90g Self Raising Flour 15g Cocoa Nibs 300g Chopped roasted nuts of your choice 10g Pectin N.H

Melt chocolate and butter together. Blend with dry ingredients Combine all ingredients apart from the sesame seeds and cocoa and eggs. Press into Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548). nibs. Stir on the heat until you achieve a golden brown colour. Bake at 180ºC for 5-8 minutes and allow to cool. The brownie Add sesame seeds and nibs. Bake in the oven at 180ºC for will still feel very soft at this stage but it will turn into a nice 10-15 minutes. fudge base as it cools.

Grenade Chocolate Mousse Caramilsed Banana 6 Egg Yolks 325g Peeled ripe bananas 40g Castor Sugar 30g Lemon Juice 220g Callebaut Grenade Couverture 60% 30g Butter 120g Butter 100g Brown Sugar 6 Egg Whites 20ml Rum 40g Sugar 400g Marscarpone Cheese Whisk egg yolks and sugar together until light and creamy. Cut peeled bananas 1cm thick sprinkle with lemon juice. Melt couverture and butter together. Whisk Egg whites and Sauté in butter and brown sugar until caramelized. add the sugar gradually. Fold together yolks and chocolate mixture then fold through egg white mixture. Cool below 32ºC before folding through the rum and marscarpone cheese. Spread a thin layer on top of the prepared brownie base.

Mousse coffee 600ml Milk 24g Gold Gelatine Sheets 200g Sugar 2 Vanilla Beans 10 Egg Yolks 1200ml Semi Whipped Cream 35% butterfat 50g Espresso

Boil milk and cut and scraped vanilla. Blend egg yolks and sugar together and pour boiled milk slowly over the egg mixture. Return to the stove and reheat while continually stirring to 85ºC. Add presoaked gelatin the strain and cool as quickly as possible to 32ºC. Add coffee and fold through semi whipped cream. Pipe over caramelized banana mixture.

Caramel Chocolate Glaze 250g Milk 1. 2. 80g Glucose 8g Gold Gelatine Sheets 600g Callebaut Caramel Chocolate 1. Mix all the ingredients together incorporating the macadamia nuts last. Boil the milk with the glucose. Then add the pre soaked gelatine 2. Spread into Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548) and bake and pour over caramel chocolate. Cool before glazing. at 180ºC for 5-8 minutes.

45 Grand Gateaux

3. 4. 5.

6.7. 8.

3. Melt brown sugar to a caramel. Add lemon juice and bananas 6. Place caramelised babana mixture over the brownie base and continue to caramelise. and spread to form an even layer. Be sure not to take to the edge of the ring. 4. Create the sesame nougatine disc by placing all the ingredients in a saucepan and stir over the heat until you 7. Pour prepared coffee anglaise mixture previously cooled reach a light golden colour. Then add the sesame seeds and to 32ºC and fold through the semi whipped cream. cocoa nibs. 8. Pipe a layer of the coffee mouse over the caramelised 5. Press 35g of the sesame nougatine mixture into each Demarle banana layer. Spoon the mixture up the side of the cake Flexipan (ref 1548) and bake at 180ºC for 10-15 minutes. ring to avoid air pockets.

46 Pastry & Baking North America 9. 10. 11.

12. 13.

9. Place the sesame disc onto of the coffee mousse and fill to the 13. Arrange the unmoulded tear drops in circle arrangement top of the cake ring with the remaining mixture. and spray with prepared yellow cocoa butter. 10. Level the top with an angled palette knife. 11. Pipe prepared chocolate mousse into Demarle Flexipan (Ref Finishing 1144) then level with a spatula or palette knife and freeze Place the sprayed chocolate mousse on top of the glazed before unmoulding. entremet. Place three chocolate twigs in the centre and finish 12. Glaze frozen entremet with prepared caramel glaze at a the side with a textured chocolate square finished with a temperature of 35-40ºC. PCB bronze metallic powder.

47 Better Baking

Pumpernickel

Pumpernickel is a type of German bread traditionally made with coarsely-ground rye meal. It is now often made with a combination of rye flour and whole rye berries. It has been long associated with the Westphalia region of Germany. The first written mention of the black bread of Westphalia was in 1450. While it is not known Publisher’s Note: Leo de Leijer is a 5th generation whether this, and other early references, refer to precisely Dutch baker with over 45 years of professional experience. After his initial training, Leo gained experience in various the bread that came to be known as pumpernickel, there mid to large sized Dutch companies and has been employed has long been something different about Westphalian rye by the IREKS Company in the Export Division for 26 years. bread that elicited comment. The defining characteristics of Westphalian pumpernickel are coarse rye flour – rye meal – and an exceedingly long baking period. The long slow baking is what gives pumpernickel its characteristic dark color. The bread can emerge from the oven deep brown, even black. Pumpernickel is often used for open sandwiches and in fine dining as a basis for a multitude of different snacks and canapés.

Recipe:

IREKS PUMPERNICKEL 10.000kg Water (55 - 60ºC) 7.500l Instant yeast 0.010kg Total weight 17.510kg

Mixing time: 30 minutes slow. Add the yeast to the dough during the last 5 minutes of the mixing time.

Dough temperature: 29 - 32ºC

1. To achieve an optimum dough temperature, the water should be between 55 - 60ºC.

48 Pastry & Baking North America 2. 3. Tip: Scaling and moulding is easier with wet hands. After a bulk fermentation time of two hours, place the pieces directly into greased toast bread tins. The toast bread tin should be filled to approx. 1 cm below the upper rim.

4. 5. Press the dough into the greased tins and smooth the surface For canapés, the pumpernickel can also be wrapped as a roll with a dough scraper. We recommend baking the pumpernickel in metal foil. in closed toast bread tins.

6. 7. Tip: If your oven does not have steam, pour some water onto As soon as a core temperature of at least 96ºC has been reached, the baking tray. the bread has been optimally baked.

8. 9. Pumpernickel has a long consumption freshness and a The finished canapés – colourful, deliciously decorated, an pleasant, slightly sweet taste. eye-catcher for every buffet.

59 Better Baking

50 Pastry & Baking North America 221-D8 SIGEP PAST. a4 gb x PASTRY & BAKING ASIA PACIFIC tra.indd 1 22-07-2008 12:21:32 Industry Insider: Interviews by Mitch Stamm

Matt McDonald CMB RDPIII RDPIII 6

Matt McDonald is a Certified Master Baker (CMB) and was part of the Bread Bakers Guild of America’s Baking Team USA that competed in the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in both 1999 and 2002. Matt has worked in various aspects of the industry: baker for Artisan Bakers in Sonoma, baking and pastry instructor at the National Baking Center in Minneapolis, vice president of operations for Hudson Bread South in New Jersey and director of wholesale operations for the Willo Baking Company in Phoenix. Today, as head baker for Bouchon Bakery (part of the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group) Matt’s responsibilities are extensive and he sits down with Mitch Stamm for a candid discussion on the industry and his 15 year journey.

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MITCH STAMM: Unfortunately, the National Baking Center highest possible quality and best possible service. My team is closed Its doors in July 2001, but not without having constantly working as we deliver 4 times each week day and 5 tremendous influence on the craftsmanship of America’s rising times each weekend day to The French Laundry, 3 times each artisan bakers. You were fortunate enough to intern at the day to Bouchon and one time each day to Ad Hoc. This requires NBC. Describe the experience? involvement and participation from top to bottom. Our porters MATT MCDONALD: My pursuit of making the best bread led come to make sure we are on time with each delivery, my assistant me to Minneapolis and The National Baking Center. It was a and the rest of our team knows that the items we produce are collaborative effort from industry, education and the Bread going to impact each guest’s experience and it is important to Bakers Guild of America. Headed by Tom McMahon – founder each of us that they remember how good the bread was. This of the Guild- along with influential instructors such as Didier contributes to the overall success of the group. Rosada and Philippe LeCorre, the experience was initially intimidating. Coming from a typical American bakery background, the NBC was unlike anything I had ever encountered. Everything about it was serious and intense. We operated at a very high level with an agenda of advancing the education of American bakers. I soon came to appreciate the extraordinary atmosphere at the NBA but am saddened that others will not have the same opportunity.

You are the head baker in one of America’s most respected restaurant groups. What is the corporate culture like at Bouchon Bakery and how has it influenced your approach to work and leadership? Our philosophy in The Thomas Keller Restaurant Group is based upon the guest experience. Every member of the team directly contributes with the goal of making memories that will last a lifetime. The bakery was opened to service The French Laundry and Bouchon as well as the community. Now we also have Ad Hoc which we service. We all know how important bread is to complement a dish, but we are a part of three different teams, providing different breads for each – helping all deliver the

54 Pastry & Baking North America “We all know how important bread is to complement a dish, but we are a part of three different teams, providing different breads for each – helping all deliver the highest possible quality and best possible service.”

Walk me through your typical day? I have a fairly normal day. I begin by waking up and getting the kids ready for school while checking my calendar, email and voicemail. After a cup of coffee and rushing everyone off, I arrive at work. I make sure to greet everyone in the bakery and ask if there are any issues I need to be aware of or any areas where I can help solve a problem. At this point production is well on its way and it is nice to see our guests. We have a great mix of local clientele and tourists who have gone to great lengths to make our bakery a destination. I return to the kitchen to help keep the team on schedule and to work side by side to provide support in a practical setting.

You mentioned multiple daily deliveries to each venue. Do you retard any of the products? Are you in contact with the venues throughout the day or are there standing orders? Our deliveries are timed with each restaurant to maximize the When hiring, what qualities do you seek in candidates? guest experience. For example, we bake our largest loaves for Ad I look for characteristics that I know are important to a candidate’s Hoc, 12 hours before service. These loaves take this amount of success. Certainly cleanliness and organization are important, time to fully develop their flavor and texture profiles. Our smallest but I am in a position of mentoring and there are other traits I products would be the rolls served at The French Laundry, being find critical to a long term relationship with team members. fired minutes before going to the table. We, like any other First is team before self. Next is the desire to that which is greater wholesale bakery, prefer standing orders but are accessible through than self and third is to endeavor to be better than one is now. our order department and in emergencies, in the kitchen. As our deliveries are tuned to guest experience, so are the processes Can you describe bread service at the French Laundry, utilized. We use every tool in the kit to maximize impact on the Bouchon, and Ad Hoc. What breads are offered? How does guest. We use direct method, pre-fermentation and delayed bread service transpire? fermentation depending on the desired result. Bread service at all of our properties is very important to our guests’ experiences. We match the service with the property Describe the process of developing and introducing new while delivering in every case the greatest impact to the guest. products. At The French Laundry, for example, we offer four different Developing new products is always fun for us. We definitely sliced breads and five different rolls. We pair sliced breads with collaborate in this area. It may be a group of us sitting around foie gras and cheese courses, while offering choices of rolls chatting about things we would like to make or even just an with other courses. experience that inspires us to try something new. I like to use these things to demonstrate different techniques to my staff What products (or types of products) other than bread are and use them as educational opportunities to help them in you responsible for? their futures. Regardless of the source, we will work on it in I am currently responsible for bread and pastry produced at the kitchen until we are happy with the results. From there I the bakery, from breads and viennoisseries to ice creams and will schedule a tasting with Chef and others who will be involved sorbets. Fortunately, we operate in a team oriented format and with the product. We will discuss our impressions and make have some of the best talent available. Our leaders at all of our corrections until we all support the product, then it goes into properties are very supportive of each other and willing to help production. out whenever needed.

55 Industry Insider

What size is your staff? I have four direct reports with a total of 44 staff in the bakery. We operate 24/7 in production while our retail is open 7 am to 7 pm everyday. We produce bread and pastry in the same kitchen and share some equipment, including a selection of mixers, a dough divider, a divider/rounder, a baguette molder, a sheeter and a fermentation tank.

What do you see as the biggest challenge facing bakers in the future? I think the biggest challenge facing tomorrow’s leaders is the same as it has always been…finding the right mentor. We’ve all had to find that individual who will challenge and inspire another to exceed his own expectations.

What are you currently reading? I am currently reading The Leadership Challenge. If you could say anything about bread or bread making, what The Thomas Keller Restaurant Group is well known for being would it be? an active member of the community. What are you currently I still love to eat it! After all, it is the most important component working on? in a meal. I look forward to the bread I am going to enjoy with Absolutely. We enjoy giving back and are involved year round every dish. with charities, donations and parties in town. My favorite event is the Veteran’s Day Luncheon at the Yountville Veteran’s Home. What has baking meant to you? We make the bread at the bakery and all the local chefs get Some of my most memorable experiences. From meeting the together and cook for about 1000 veterans. It is a super experience woman who would be my wife, to performing in front of meeting the vets. Another event we started is bringing in local thousands of people at trade shows. In the end, I love what I do school kids to be bakers for the day. Recently we had a 2nd grade and really appreciate the opportunity to teach and promote the class come in and it was a lot of fun introducing them to bread, craft and have an impact on someone else’s career. shaping baguettes and touring the bakery.

What advice would you give to people interested in a baking Pain Rustique career? Work in a bakery first. Then pursue education. It helps to realize Ingredients Bakers Weight you don’t even know what you don’t know. Percent (to make 10 kg) Low Protein, Hard Red, 100 5.249 kg Any truth to the San Francisco/Napa Valley sourdough lore? Winter Wheat Flour This is your chance to dispel or confirm once and for all. Water 71.24 3.729 kg The truth is that some of the best sourdoughs I’ve ever had come from the Bay Area/Napa Valley. I’m siding with my friends on Instant Dry Yeast .58 .030 kg this one though. We believe it to be more about the quality of Sea Salt 2.15 .113 kg the bakers and their experience with the product as opposed to Levain (125% hydration) 16.56 .869 kg the distance from the Equator. Improved mix: Incorporate ingredients on low speed then mix for 5 minutes on second speed (with a 200 rpm mixer). First fermentation: 2 hours and 15 minutes. Punch and fold at 30 minutes, 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes. Divide: 550g rustic diamond shaped loaves. Proof: Upside down on flour dusted linens. Bake: Right side up with steam at 440ºF. When good color has developed, open the oven vent and doors and bake for about 10 more minutes.

Nathan “Mitch” Stamm is an instructor with the International Baking & Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. He is former executive pastry chef of the Sun Valley Resort in Sun Valley, Idaho. He also served as pastry chef at Zingerman’s Bakehouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan. A member of the Bread Bakers’ Guild of America, Mitch has extensive training in hearth breads, the science of baking, pastries, and plated desserts.

56 Pastry & Baking North America Wildly imaginative kids’ cakes, cookies, and cupcakes— from the founder of Confetti Cakes. BEN FINK

Elisa Strauss, the most sought-after cake designer in New York City, presents a whimsical collection of cakes, cookies, and cupcakes to delight children—whatever the occasion. Gorgeous photos and step-by-step instructions make creating 24 extraordinary projects easy and fun!

www.confetticakes.com

Little, Brown and Company Hachette Book Group Chocolate Love

Gelatin Sphere

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.

Tools: Ingredients: Putty knife 100 g powdered gelatin Brush Water Measuring cup Dark chocolate Polycarbonate demi-sphere mold Plastic rectangular container

58 Pastry & Baking North America 1. 2.

3. 4.

Steps:

1. Mix 100 grams of powdered gelatin to 600 grams of cold water. Mix and allow to bloom/soften. Heat gelatin till liquid. Tilt plastic rectangular 5. container and add liquid gelatin to fill corner. Place in refrigerator until firm.

2. Remove solid gelatin from plastic container and place in the interior of the polycarbonate demi- sphere mold.

3. Brush tempered dark chocolate around the gelatin.

4. Paint enough chocolate to hold the gelatin in 7. place.

5. Then pour tempered dark chocolate into the demi- sphere mold encasing the gelatin. Cast the mold and allow to cool.

6. Remove chocolate from the demi-sphere mold.

7. Then, remove the gelatin that is encased in the demi-sphere.

8. Clean the edges once the gelatin is removed.

9. Join the two chocolate spheres and apply the 6. 8. gelatin sphere to your centerpiece.

59 Chocolate Love

60 Pastry & Baking North America

Wild Sweets

Part 1 - SOUS VIDE

Sous-vide is a French term describing the operation of cooking food under vacuum. This method cooks ingredients by heating them for an extended

period of time (sometimes over 24 hours), at relatively low temperatures

(usually around 140ºF / 60ºC). Because of these parameters, one must be aware of the risk of contamination by botulinum, an anaerobic bacteria that can grow in food in the absence of oxygen at lower temperature. To protect against such risks, very precise temperature-controlled equipment Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the ® (thermo-circulators or steam ovens) are used to prevent food safety issues. chefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets , a critically acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has The main advantage of vacuum cooking is control of doneness, especially emerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers. The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc., when cooking proteins. However, fruits and vegetables also benefit from a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training and consulting services to hotels and catering companies this method as well as cooking of custards and other similar preparations worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services such as product development, food styling, and photography. such as créme brûlée. For more information,visit www.dcduby.com

CRÉME SOUS VIDE IN CARAMEL JELLY Serves 4 Custard Cream 1 vanilla bean 375 mL whipping cream 6 large egg yolks 50 g granulated sugar 1. 2. Preheat a water bath to 190 - 195ºF (88 - 90ºC). Split vanilla bean lengthwise and, with the tip of a knife, scrape seeds into a medium bowl. Whisk in cream, egg yolks and granulated sugar until well combined. Using a ladle, divide cream mixture evenly among four 175 mL ramekins. Cover each ramekin tightly with a sheet of food-grade, heatproof plastic wrap, making sure that a perfect seal forms and no liquid can leak. Place each ramekin in a vacuum bag and seal following vacuum sealer directions. Place sealed bags in water bath and cook until custard, completely submerged while agitating the bath to prevent ‘hot spots’ until set, about 50-60 minutes. Remove the ramekins bags from the hot water bath and cool in a cold water for at least 45 minutes. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours (overnight is best). 3. 4.

62 Pastry & Baking North America Caramel Jelly 185 mL water 100 g granulated sugar 1.25 mL sodium citrate* 1 Gelatin leaf, bloomed 1.25 mL agar powder* 2.

This recipe is tested with ARGUM and SOTRA Elements by DC DUBY, other agar / citrate may be substituted, but results may differ.

Stir together 60 mL water, the sugar and SOTRA in a medium heavy saucepan and cook to 338ºF (170ºC) and mixture is medium dark caramel in color. Remove saucepan from the heat and, in remaining water. Return saucepan to medium heat and cook, stirring, until caramel has dissolved and mixture is smooth. Pour caramel into a tall narrow heatproof container. With an immersion blender, slowly add agar powder, continuing to blending until well combined. Pour caramel back into saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring, over high heat. Remove saucepan from the heat and stir in Gelatin Mix until well combined. Pour caramel onto a silicone mat into a sheet of about 1/4-inch (0.625 cm) thickness. Let cool at room temperature. Using a 3-inch (7.5 cm) cookie cutter, cut 8 or 12 disks from caramel. Spoon custard in center of each disk, and top with another disk. Optionally, finish with some caramel powder (I.e. CARADUST Elements) 3.

1.4. 5.

63 Wild Sweets

64 Pastry & Baking North America

Creative Cakes

Photography by Jordan Pique

HOT TIPS * Since you will be making a large quantity of popcorn, keep the gum paste you are not using covered at all times in plastic wrap. Roll out small amounts at a time to prevent the gum paste from drying out. Ideally, you’ll make about 20 pieces at a time. Publisher’s Note: Elisa Strauss is the owner of Confetti Cakes and specializes in handsculpted delicious works of Use kernels of real popcorn as your inspiration. art. Elisa and her creations have appeared on numerous * national television shows and in the pages of countless * Everyone loves the combination of sweet and salty, so if you want international publications. A frequent competitor on the to save time, use real popcorn instead of sugar popcorn. Food Network, Elisa’s first book, The Confetti Cakes Cookbook, was released in Spring 2007 and is in its fourth * Make tiny popcorn buckets out of cupcakes so you do not have printing, and her second book entitled Confetti Cakes for Kids to sculpt cakes or make as much popcorn. Just wrap one piece of is due out in November. For more information, please visit fondant around the cupcake’s outer edge and fill with popcorn. www.confetticakes.com.

One Day In Advance: Make the Popcorn Kernels For each cake you need approximately 20 kernels of sugar popcorn.

Working with Fondant:

1.

1. Dye 2 pounds of the gum paste butter yellow. Photo by Alexandra Rowley

66 Pastry & Baking North America 2. 2a. 2b.

3. 3a. 4.

4a. 5. 5a.

2. Using a paring knife, cut the rope at various intervals. Cut 4. Attach one half-inch ball and one quarter-inch ball using a dab of water, twenty half-inch pieces, twenty quarter-inch pieces, and sticking the smooth sides together and pointing the indents toward the twenty eighth-inch pieces. With greased hands, roll all the outside. Then attach one of the eighthinch pieces to the first two with pieces into balls. Repeat with 3 more ropes of gum paste. a dab of water to create one piece of popcorn. Repeat the process for the rest of the popcorn. Feel free to add more balls to some kernels and just 3. 1 Use the small end of a ball tool to create /4-inch-deep indents one ball to others to create the irregular look youíd find in real popcorn. in the half-inch balls. Create 1/8-inch-deep indents in the smaller pieces. Use your fingers to give the edges a little 5. With a dry brush, dust on a dab of yellow powder, to add a light shade misshaping, pinching the sides into the shape of a human of butter. In a small dish, mix together water and brown food-coloring ear. You do not want anything to look too perfect. Popcorn powder to make a very subtle shade of brown and paint the centers of comes in all shapes and sizes. all the indents to create the actual look of kernels.

67 Creative Cakes

1. 1a. 2.

3. 4. 5.

Make And Assemble the Mini Cakes

Cut the cake into twelve 4 x 2 1/2-inch Using a ruler, cut two 4 1/2x 4 1/2-inch pieces and 4. Dye the remaining 2 pounds of gum rectangles. two 3 x 4 1/2-inch pieces. Keep the cut pieces paste red. On a plastic mat greased covered with a piece of plastic wrap and a damp with shortening, roll out the gum paste For each cake, place a dab of filling on each cloth to prevent them from drying out while to 1/16 inch thick and cut it into cardboard rectangle and place a piece of cake you roll out the fondant. fourteen 3/8 x 4 1/2-inch strips for each on top. Coat the first layer with 1/2 inch of bag. Moisten the backs of the strips filling. Top the filling with another piece of For each cake, place the two 4 1 2 x 4 1 2-inch / / with a dab of water and attach them cake, coat again with another 1/2 inch of filling, pieces on the front and back sides of the cake, to the cake at even intervals. Fold the then place remaining piece of cake on top. In making sure the fondant extends at least 1/4 inch tops of the strips over the top edge of the end you will have 3 layers of cake with 2 above the top of the cake for the bag’s opening. layers of filling. After the top layer of cake is the fondant. For even spacing, place on, push down slightly to secure the layers. (You will not be covering the top of the cake. a ruler along the bottom edge of the Place the cakes in a freezer and chill for 1 hour. The popcorn will sit inside the rim you create.) cake as your guide. Redcolored gum paste tends to bleed, so try not to apply The fondant should also reach at least 1/4 inch 1. Using a serrated knife, carve a gusset into beyond the sides of the bag. Trim the fondant too much water to the backs of the red the sides of the cakes (this is the upside- along the bottom edge of the cake to create a strips or the color may bleed into the down Y shape that is found on the sides of clean edge. white background. brown paper bags and shopping bags that 5. Use a pastry bag filled with Royal Icing allows them to fold neatly). To assist in the 3. Brush the fondant that extends past the sides of carving process, refer to a real shopping to adhere the popcorn pieces inside the cake with a dab of water, then place the 3 x bag. Crumb coat the cakes with a very thin the bag and along the outside edge. 4 1/2-inch pieces against the sides of the cake. layer of filling. Pinch the fondant pieces together at the seams Have a few pieces positioned to look 2. On a surface dusted with cornstarch, roll of the bag, and press it into the gussets that you like they are literally ready to fall off out 1 pound of white fondant to carved in step 4. If the seams do not look clean, the edge, but use the icing to make approximately 1/8 inch thick for each cake. use a scissors to cut away the excess fondant. sure they don’t!

68 Pastry & Baking North America 69 Plated Desserts

Litchi Macaron, Fresh Berries and Strawberry Juice

Photography by Dragon Filipovic

Publisher’s Note: As the former Executive Pastry Chef at the French Embassy, Washington, D.C. and a 10 year Ritz Carlton Group veteran, Eric is the driving force (chef/owner) behind Visage Pâtisserie and the recently launched Macaron Pastry Training Centre in Bangkok (www.macaronbkk.com).

Litchi Cream 250g litchi puree 7g gelatin leaves 300g whipped cream 1. 2. 1. Slice fresh litchi.

2. Soften the gelatin in cold water and melt. Heat up 1/3 of the puree and gelatin. When dissolved add the remaining gelatin. Cool down and fold into the whipped cream.

3. Pipe into Flexipan® to half. 4. Add sliced fresh litchi and freeze. 3. 4.

70 Pastry & Baking North America Macaron 125g almond powder 225g icing sugar 110g egg whites 30g caster sugar 5g egg white powder

1. Sift together almond powder and icing sugar. 2. Whip the egg whites and slowly add the sugar/white powder. 3. Add a few drops of food coloring. 4. Fold in the almond flour and icing sugar (both sifted). 5. Break down and pipe onto Silpat®. 6. Bake at 150ºC for 12 minutes. 7. Allow complete cool down before removing from tray.

Raspberry Compote 180g frozen raspberry pepin 90g sugar

Mix together and cook until smooth consistency.

Strawberry Juice 250g fresh strawberries 1. 2. 50g sugar 1/2 of lemon

1. Cut the strawberries in quarters. 2. Place strawberries in a stainless mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap. 3. Add the sugar and lemon and place atop a double boiler at low heat until juice completely comes out. 4. Strain and preserve the juice. Disregard the rest. 3. 4.

Assembly 1. Place half of the macarons on the plate. 2. Unmold and place the litchi cream in the center. 3. Lean the donut shape macaron on the cream. 4. Fill with the raspberry compote. 5. Add fresh berries. 6. Place the strawberry juice on the side in a shot glass.

71 Plated Desserts

72 Pastry & Baking North America Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

to all our valuable customers and dear friends

with an expression of sincere gratitude for having chosen to do business with us throughout 2008!

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