San Francisco II Was One of the Ships to Survive the Armada’S Defeat by the Royal Navy and Returned Badly Damaged to the Port of Santander in Spain

Home , Caravel, Carrack, Galleon, Ship of the line

he most fearsome ships of the Spanish Armada of 1588 were the heavily armed galleons. This class of sailing ship Tfirst appeared in the 16th century and for 150 years remained the most powerful warships of their time. The San Francisco II was one of the ships to survive the Armada’s defeat by the Royal Navy and returned badly damaged to the port of Santander in Spain.

TECHNICAL DATA: The San Francisco II Model no: 22452 Degree of difficulty: Length: 680mm (263/4in) Height: 520mm (20 7/16in) Beam: 240mm (9 7/16in) Scale: 1:90

Not suitable for children under 14 years of age. Model for collectors only. GALLEONS 1 THE SAN FRANCISCO II The name ‘galleon’ is applied to any large European ship with several decks that plied the seas between the 16th and early 18th centuries. They included both warships and merchant vessels, but both types were likely to carry armaments in the form of medium-sized cannons, typically the demi-culverin.

he galleon evolved from longer, narrower, hull and a lower vessels such as the light, forecastle than a carrack, giving it a Tspeedy and manoeuvrable much sleeker line and the ability to caravel, which was used mainly in cut through the water when running coastal waters, and the much bulkier, ahead of the wind, and a combination more stable and capacious, but of stability and manoeuvrability. Other slower, ocean-going carrack. Carracks typical features of the galleon were a usually had a high aftcastle and a long square stern, replacing the rounded bowsprit, while the caravel had a profile of a carrack, and a projection lower castle and shorter bowsprit. from the bow below the forecastle, DeAgostini Both ships were developed by the known as the beak. Portuguese in the 15th century, at Galleons usually had three masts, the beginning of the Age of although some larger examples had Above: A galleon in full sail must have Discovery. The caravel was excellent four, or very occasionally five. The been an awe-inspiring sight. for getting close to shore, and led the foremast and mainmast were square- exploration down the coast of Africa, rigged, but the mizzen – and the but the carrack was used for longer fourth, the bonaventure mizzen voyages of discovery, as it could hold when present – carried triangular more provisions. The ship in which lateen sails. Columbus sailed to the Americas in 1492, the Santa Maria, was a small carrack (or nao), while the accompanying vessels, the Pinta and Niña, were caravels. Larger carracks were used for trade once the routes had been opened up, while the caravel was better suited to fighting. The galleon combined the best features of its predecessors. It was larger than a caravel, with a much

Right: Columbus’s ships, the caravels, Niña and Pinta, and the Santa Maria, a small carrack. DeAgostini Galleons were fitted with special 2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II rigging systems that could be operated by just a few men, as it was not unusual for a high percentage of crew members to die on a long voyage.

with archers raining arrows down on the crew of the enemy vessel from a high aftcastle as a prelude to boarding and bloody hand-to-hand combat, from the 16th century warships came increasingly to rely on blasting opponents out of the water with a broadside from ranks of cannons. This meant that aftcastles could be significantly lowered. At the same time, the lateen-rigging of the mizzen and bonaventure mizzenmasts were gradually replaced with square sails and a spanker.

Labour intensive Although the galleon’s masts were usually of pine, the keels were generally of more durable oak, while the rest of the hull and the decks were constructed from various other hardwoods. It took many months and DeAgostini literally hundreds of skilled men – not only carpenters and shipwrights, but also smiths, coopers, pitchmakers and Above: The English galleon, the Mayflower, which carried the Pilgrim Fathers to the so on – to build a galleon. The high religious freedom they craved in the New World, in 1620. costs of all this effort were met by Adapted to suit sheer durability of the latter tended consortia of wealthy merchants when At first, galleons were used mainly by to compensate for this. the ships were meant for trade, and the Spanish and Portuguese, but The shape of the galleon evolved by the exchequer when they were eventually all the maritime powers over time, with various nations to be used as warships. But privately with an Atlantic fleet had their own, claiming credit for the several built galleons could be switched and adapted them to their own special improvements made. quite easily to military use, and requirements. British galleons, for The changing demands of warfare this was usually the fate of any example, tended to be a fair bit at sea had a considerable effect on trade galleon captured in warfare smaller but considerably quicker than galleon design. While earlier naval or by looting freebooters. their Spanish counterparts, but the engagements were at close quarters, Their very adaptability meant that galleons were the main form of large THE MANILA GALLEON ship for nearly 200 years, before they Most galleons displaced no more than 500 tonnes, but those that plied the were replaced by more specialized trade route between Acapulco and the Philippines could be up to four forms: the tall-masted, square-rigged times larger. The route, which operated from 1565 to 1815, took Dutch fluyt for cargo, and the fast, advantage of Pacific trade winds by sailing out through the South Pacific two-masted brig and the larger, and returning north of the Equator. Cargoes landed at Acapulco were three-masted ship of the line, carried across Mexico to Veracruz, and loaded on smaller galleons bound with no castles to speak of and for Spain, so in effect fulfilling Columbus’s dream of finding a trade route ranks of cannon to fire broadsides, to the Indies by sailing west. as warships. GENERAL TIPS II: GENERAL TIPS FRANCISCO 1 THE SAN ATTENTION! Assemble under adult supervision. Unsuitable for children under 14. To assemble this model we recommend that you follow the step-by-step guide. 1 4 8

1. Follow all assembly steps CAREFULLY. 4. To ensure the perfect adjustment of cast GLUES Take all the time you need. First look at the metal parts, go over the edges with a small Apply glue sparingly and in strict accordance photos and read all the documentation included file before fitting to eliminate possible burrs with the manufacturer’s instructions. There are in the kit, as it will help you assemble the and impurities. different types of glues that can be used to model correctly: assemble the model. •Parts list with Dimensions and Materials. White glue •Cut Sheet with precision-cut numbered parts. 5 This is also known as carpenter’s glue or PVA. •These instructions. It can be applied directly or with a brush to one of the parts to be glued. Clean off any excess glue immediately after joining the parts to avoid staining when fully dry. Contact glue 2 This glue can be applied with either a brush or a flat spatula. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces to be joined. Before joining the parts, leave for approximately five minutes. After joining, apply light pressure and remove excess glue. 5. To give a more authentic appearance to Fast-drying glue the ship’s sails, dye them in some tea. When Apply a tiny amount directly to the point where completely dry, add them to the ship without the parts are to be joined. It is very important ironing them. that the parts are correctly positioned as you will not be able to move the parts again to set them correctly. 2. To remove the wood pieces (see Cut 6 Sheets), carefully cut the tiny strands joining Metal glue them to the sheet. Use the Cut Sheets to Super Glue Gel or Two-part epoxy glue identify fully the precision-cut parts. PUTTIES After removing the parts from the sheets to Use regular stopping putty for wood. Read the use them during assembly, carefully sand them manufacturer’s instructions carefully! before gluing in place. Applying putty Given the nature and origin of the wood, To fill holes or cracks in the ship’s hull, apply there may be slight differences in the tone the putty with a flat spatula. Allow to dry and or colour of some material. softly sand the entire surface of the hull to level off the putty. 6. For parts that need bending or curving, VARNISHES 3 dampen them in water for greater flexibility. You Use clear (not coloured) stopping varnish. Read can also use a bending press, or plankbender, the manufacturer’s instructions carefully! which is highly useful during assembly. Applying varnish Use a brush to apply varnish to wood. Sand the surface and thoroughly clean the part 7 before varnishing. Varnish as follows: 1. Apply a first coat and allow to dry. 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2. 4. Apply a third coat and allow to dry. 5. When dry, polish the part using steel wool. 3. To cut to size and identify the parts which are not prefabricated, look at the parts list PAINTS where you will find: Use acrylic (water-based) paints. Read the •Part number. manufacturer’s instructions carefully! •Part description. Applying paint •Number of same parts to be cut and used 7. Before mounting the pulley blocks or dead- Use a paintbrush. Sand the surface and clean the in the model. eyes, it is best to enlarge the holes with a part thoroughly before painting. Paint in the •Part dimensions (thickness, width, length, 0.75mm diameter drill. following order. in that order). 1. Apply a coat of varnish to prepare the •Material used to make the parts (subject to surface to be painted. Allow the part to dry. modification by prior notification. 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. 3. Apply a first coat of paint and allow to dry. 4. When dry, apply a second coat of paint. LIST OF PARTS PARTS OF LIST 2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: Required tools and accessories: •Varnish 200cc pot (item 27621) •White glue (item 27601) All tools and •Brush to apply varnish •Quick-drying glue (item 27611) materials are Recommended extra tools and accessories: •Hand drill (item 27018) •Half-round file (item 27052) •Hammer (item 27017) available from •Bending press, or plankbender (item 27024) •Sandpapers – medium grain (grain 240), www.model-space.co.uk •Nailer (item 27023) •Pliers (item 27012) very fine grain (1000) •Electric grinder/drill (27077)

Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material 1 False keel 1 Pref 4 Plywood 2 Mainmast and foremast knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 3 Mizzenmast knighthead 1 Pref 4 Plywood 4-12 Frames 9 Pref 4 Plywood 13 Waist deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 14 Bowsprit deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 15 Helmsman's deck bulkhead 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 16 Helmsman's deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 17 Aft deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 18 Fore deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 19 First stem knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 20 Second stem knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 21 Third stem knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 22 Bottom base of the upper stern 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 23 Upper stern 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 24 Deck lining 40 0.6x5x500 Ramin 25 Deck bratticing 1 0.6x5x500 Mahogany 26 Edge of the fore deck 1 1.5x3x500 Mahogany 27 Bulkhead lining 7 0.6x5x500 Mahogany 28 Bulwarks 2 1.5 Pref Plywood 29 Hull lining strakes 70 2x5x500 Mahogany 30 Interior lining strakes for bulwarks and head rails 12 0.6x5x500 Ramin 31 Deck stringers 2 2x2x500 Applewood 32 Rubbing strakes 4 1.5x3x500 Applewood 33 Doors 6 Pref Cast in metal 34 Rubbing strakes that extend the limber boards 4 2x2x500 Applewood 35 Stem 1 Pref 4 Mahogany 36 Cutwater 1 Pref 4 Mahogany 37 Keel 1 4x4x310 Mahogany 38 Stern post 1 4x4x100 Mahogany 39 Loading tracks and vertical reinforcements 3 1.5x3x500 Applewood 40 Rudder blade 1 Pref 4 Mahogany 41 Rudder half-hinges 6 Pref Brass 42 Rudder hinge pin 3 Diam 1x10 Brass wire 43 Upper stern door 1 Pref Cast in metal 44 Windows 2 Pref Cast in metal 45 Shields with lion 6 Pref Cast in metal 46 Shields with tower 6 Pref Cast in metal 47 Gunport shutters 22 Pref Cast in metal 48 Frames for gunports without shutters 10 Pref Cast in metal 49 Helm 1 Pref Cast in metal 50 Upper stern arches 2 Pref Cast in metal 51 Gallery side support arches 2 Pref Cast in metal 52 Gallery central support arches 2 Pref Cast in metal 53 Gallery 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 54 Head rails 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 55 Gallery lining and head rails 10 0.6x5x500 Mahogany 56 Columns 62 Pref Cast in metal 57 Gallery handrail 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 58 Limber boards 4 2x5x500 Applewood 59 Small rungs on the boarding ladder 12 1.5x3x7 Applewood 60 Large rungs on the boarding ladder 12 2x5x10 Applewood 61 Bow riders 2 4x4x50 Applewood 62 Stern riders 2 4x4x20 Applewood 63 Cat davits 2 5x5x50 Applewood 64 Bowsprit support pillar 1 5x5x20 Applewood 65 Side walls of the helmsman's cabin 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 66 Forward wall of the helmsman's cabin 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 67 Aft wall of the helmsman's cabin 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 68 Roof of the helmsman's cabin 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 69 Lining for the helmsman's cabin 2 0.6x5x500 Mahogany 70 Strips for edging the helmsman's cabin 1 2x2x300 Ramin THE SAN FRANCISCO II 1 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY STEP BY STEP

Check that all the necessary ship parts are present and that you have all the necessary paints, varnishes and glues and the ! tools that you need to build the model. Follow the steps CAREFULLY. 1 Masthead rigging

Fit and glue the masthead rigging for the fore- and mainmasts 2 and the mizzenmast 3 to the false keel 1, ensuring that each is perpendicular, making 1a 90º angle with the keel. Use white glue. Fitting the frames 2 9 9 13

1 8

Fit the frames 7 and 8 into their corresponding slots in the false keel. Fit the waist deck 13 into place on frames 6 and 9, making sure that the hole 2for the mainmast is close to frame 9. Then fit this assembly in place on the previously fitted frames (7 and 8). Continue to fit the frames 4, 5, 10, 11 and 12 onto the corresponding slots in the false keel. Make sure that they are perfectly aligned and fitted to their full depth into the slots, and that they are perpendicular to the false keel. Do not glue them yet. Fitting the frames, continued 2 9 2 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY 13

5 12 6

4 11

8 7

Fitting the decks 3 17 15 18 16 14 9 18 14

17 13

15 17

Fit into place and pin the bowsprit deck 14 and the helmsman’s deck 16. Fit and glue the helmsman’s deck bulkhead 15 onto the helmsman’s deck, 3supported by the elevation of the false keel. Fit into place and pin the aft deck 17 and fore deck 18. Using a brush, glue the frames to the false keel and the deck with a 30 per cent mix of glue and water. Stem knightheads and upper stern Glue the first, second and third knightheads 19, 20 and 21 to the side 4 4keel, on both sides of the hull. 3 THE SAN FRANCISCO II: STEP BY