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L'apogée De L'illustré Dans Le Premier Tiers Du Xixe Si`Ecle

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L'apogée De L'illustré Dans Le Premier Tiers Du Xixe Si`Ecle Je pr´ef`erevotre feuille `atous les livres de morale, `atous les trait´esd’´economiedomestique qui ont paru jusqu’`ace jour. Vous savez, Monsieur, que le meilleur livre ne peut rien ap- prendre `aceux qui ne savent pas lire. Il en est de mˆemeavec votre Journal. Si on le parcourt l´eg`erementet sans r´eflexion, c’est le code de toutes les folies et de toutes les bagatelles les plus absurdes. Votre Journal peut ˆetrele br´eviairedes fous; mais il peut ˆetreaussi le vade mecum du sage. Le tout est de savoir le m´editer,l’approfondir, le raisonner, et de tirer de vos raisonnements une cons´equenceraisonnable. Lettre d’un abonn´epubli´eepar le Journal des Dames et des Modes le 5 d´ecembre 1810. Chapitre 3 L’apog´eede l’illustr´e dans le premier tiers du XIXe si`ecle 3.1 Le magazine sous Napol´eon: Moniteur officiel de la mode Sous le Consulat et l’Empire, quand La M´esang`erer´egnaiten maˆıtresur les publications de mode, Napol´eonrecommandait la lecture du magazine, en d´epitde son m´eprisg´en´eralpour la gent journalistique et malgr´eson refus de tol´ereren France la circulation d’un trop grand nombre de feuilles de presse.1 Il prit l’habitude d’appeler le Journal des Dames et des Modes, par analogie avec Le Moniteur Universel, le Moniteur officiel de la mode.2 Quand les dames de son entourage h´esitaient sur une question d’´etiquetteofficielle, il conseillait : “Voyez le journal La M´esang`ere - ce doit ˆetrel`avotre Moniteur.”3 1 D`esses d´ebutsde premier consul, Napol´eon´etaitconvaincu qu’il ne resterait pas plus de trois mois au pouvoir s’il lˆachait la bride aux journalistes. Par la loi du 17 janvier 1800, il r´etablitl’autorisation pr´ealablepour toute nouvelle publication, en vigueur sous l’Ancien R´egime,et il fit disparaˆıtreen 1811 soixante journaux politiques tout en mena¸cant de faire supprimer les quelques titres restants et en interdisant l’impression de tout nouveau journal. 2 Ch. Richomme, Le Journal des Dames ::: , art. cit., p. 348. 3 Journal des Dames et des Modes, pr´efacedu 2e tome de 1838 (exemplaire de la BN). On y compare Le Moniteur ::: et le Journal des Dames ::: parce qu’ils eurent “une 86 3 L’apog´eede l’illustr´e Les raisons de l’octroi d’une telle faveur sont multiples. Avant toute chose, les Bonaparte avaient une pr´edilectionpour les parures et la mode. Ayant la pr´etention d’ˆetrela femme la plus ´el´egante de son ´epoque, Jos´ephined´epen- sait des sommes ´enormespour sa toilette : vers 1804, plus de 600 000 francs par an!4 Rien que le nombre de ses chˆalesallait de trois `aquatre cents5 (Fig. 3.1). Et son ´epoux, malgr´esa r´eputationde spartiate, tenait ´egalement `ares- pecter les crit`eresde l’´el´egance.Sur le budget, la d´epense pour sa garde-robe fut port´ee`a40 000 francs par an au faˆıtede sa gloire. Encore appel´e“le petit tondu” quelques ann´eesplus tˆot,ce g´eant de l’histoire demeurait toujours h´esitant en mati`erede mode parce qu’il voulait en tous points partager les goˆutsde son milieu et de sa g´en´eration.Par crainte du ridicule d’un vˆetement malencontreux, il accordait beaucoup d’importance `ala fa¸conde s’habiller, mˆemeen priv´e.Lorsqu’il partait en campagne, on lui envoyait du linge et des habits dans plusieurs endroits `ala fois. Les maˆıtres de sa garde-robe ´etaient des connaisseurs en mati`ered’´el´egance,M. de R´emusat d’abord, puis M. de Turenne.6 Son peintre David, qui avait une certaine r´epugnance`ale repr´esenter dans une tenue moderne, dut souvent supporter sa critique pour la simplicit´edes portraits qu’il ex´ecutaitde lui.7 Si l’illustr´efait rarement allusion aux habitudes vestimentaires de l’empe- reur pendant ses ann´eesde r`egne,il en fait volontiers ´etatplusieurs d´ecennies plus tard. Le 20 avril 1831, par exemple, il rend compte d’un ouvrage qui fait la description du costume que Bonaparte portait en l’an IX (1801) : “habits brod´esau collet, aux paremens (sic), aux revers et aux basques. Un jour de r´eception,il se revˆetit(sic) d’un habit de tricot de soie de Lyon, rouge, brod´e, sans manchettes et avec une cravate de soie noire. Il avait avec cela des (sic) petites bottines de maroquin, un pantalon collant de peau de daim, une veste pareille destin´ee,tous deux se pliant aux exigences du pouvoir dont ils dictaient les lois; tous deux aussi anciens l’un et l’autre.” 4 Une dame de son entourage, Mme d’Abrant`esse souvient : “Mme Bonaparte n’aurait pas v´ecu,si le matin le travail des trois toilettes n’avait pas ´et´efait.” Elle note que la reine d’Espagne suivait l’exemple de Jos´ephineen mati`erede modes (M´emoires. Souvenirs historiques sur Napol´eon, Paris 1895–1898, vol. 3, p. 281 et vol. 6, p. 258). Avant 1804, les couturiers de Jos´ephine´etaient Mme Germond, depuis son couronnement Louis-Hippolyte Leroy et Mlle Despaux. Les modistes ´etaient Mme Herbault et Mlle Minette, son marchand de drap et de soieries M. Levacher (`al’enseigne du Page), son coiffeur M. Hypolyte, 3 rue de Grammont, dont le journal loue les qualit´es`ala date du 31 juillet 1807. Pour la garde- robe de Jos´ephine,voir aussi les M´emoires de Mlle Avrillion, premi`ere femme de chambre de l’imp´eratrice, Paris 1833 (r´eimpressionde 1986, pp. 278–280). 5 Selon les M´emoires de Madame de R´emusat, Paris 1880, pp. 344–347. Sur l’histoire du chˆale,voir F. Ames, The Kashmere Shawl and its Indo-French Influence, Woodbridge 1984. 6 Voir F. Masson, Napol´eonchez lui, Paris 1951. 7 M´emoires anecdotiques sur l’Int´erieurdu Palais imp´erial, Paris 1827, p. 31 (ouvrage anonyme probablement r´edig´epar Honor´ede Balzac). 3.1 Le magazine sous Napol´eon: Moniteur officiel de la mode 87 Figure 3.1 Souvent `acette ´epoque, les femmes mettaient plutˆotun grand chˆaleau lieu d’un manteau ou d’une veste. C’´etaitun vˆetement parfois h´erit´ede g´en´erationen g´en´eration qui pouvait coˆuterdes fortunes (voir aussi Fig. 3.2 et Fig. 3.4). Ici deux mod`elesde 1812. Le Journal des Dames ::: souligne la signification du chˆale`ala date du 30 avril 1807 : “Il faut avoir un schall de cachemire pour mettre ses bras et sa poitrine `al’abri du froid et de l’humidit´e,la sant´ele veut. Il faut avoir un schall pour se draper `al’antique; la mode le veut : quand on ne le met mˆemepas, il faut avoir un schall pli´een quatre sur les bras, il donne `ala fois de la grˆaceet de l’assurance, enfin il faut avoir un schall, ne fˆut-ceque pour r´ep´eterde tems en tems : J’ai un cachemire de telle couleur, donnez-moi mon cachemire.” Le 30 avril 1821, le Journal des Dames ::: d´ecritencore ce fichu en accentuant son im- portance pour les femmes de toutes les couches sociales : “Le hazard ou plutˆotla curiosit´e vous avoit fait entrer dans le magasin o`ul’on vend les beaux cachemires `afleurs d’or et d’argent, dont on a d´ej`aparl´edans ce Journal. Une ´el´egante en fait d´eployer plusieurs devant nous et finit par en acheter un au prix de 4 000 fr. Pendant qu’elle le paye en billets de banque, une jeune et jolie ouvri`erequi avoit choisi un petit fichu de soie de 28 sous, s’approche doucement du maˆıtredu magasin et lui demande s’il veut lui faire cr´edit jusqu’`ala fin du mois, (on ´etoitau 25.) Sur la r´eponse affirmative, elle glisse le fichu dans son sac; et nous sommes encore `anous demander, apr`esavoir vu sa figure, qui d’elle ou de la petite-maˆıtresse´etoitla plus heureuse en ce moment!” 88 3 L’apog´eede l’illustr´e de bazin blanc et des gants jaunes `ala Crispin qui lui montaient jusqu’aux coudes; un sabre `ala turque, fix´e`asa ceinture de soie tricolore, pendait tr`es- bas `ason cˆot´e.”La l´egendairesimplicit´ede son costume ´etaitr´eserv´eeaux heures de travail ou lorsqu’il endossait un simple uniforme militaire. Il voulait que sa Cour soit admir´eepour sa pompe et il donnait lui-mˆemel’exemple de la magnificence. On connaˆıtde lui des remarques s´ev`eressur les toilettes de son entourage et des taquineries adress´eesaux compagnes les plus intimes de Jos´ephinequi osaient se pr´esenter dans des robes qu’il avait d´ej`avues la veille. Un jour, `al’occasion d’une soir´eeofficielle, il aurait dit `al’une d’entre elles, d’un ton sec et d’un air courrouc´e: “Madame, est-ce que vous n’avez que cette robe-l`a?..... Ne pouvez-vous pas dire `avotre mari qu’il vous en ach`eteune autre?”8 Partageant l’opinion de certains contemporains selon laquelle l’´el´egance est une aristocratie en soi, l’empereur tenait `aune ´etiquettetr`esstricte `asa cour. Son sacre l´egendaire,pour lequel il d´ecidalui-mˆemede tous les d´etails et dont il s’employa `ar´ep´eterla mise en sc`ene,fut symptomatique de sa pr´eoccupation croissante pour les apparences.9 Bientˆotla popularit´ede l’illustr´efut consid´erabledans tous les cercles mondains. “Qu’en dit l’abb´e?”demandaient les femmes quand il s’agissait de juger les toilettes du jour telles que chiffons transparents, perruques blondes pour femmes, chˆalesde cachemire ou cr`emepour blanchir la peau.10 Dans les salons en vue, tant chez Mme Fanny Beauharnais, ancienne belle-m`erede l’imp´eratrice,que chez Mmes Tallien, R´ecamier,Viotte ou Dunoyer, quatre beaut´esau r`egneincontest´e,le nom de La M´esang`ere´etaitsur toutes les l`evres.11 En outre, Napol´eoncherchait en La M´esang`ereun soutien quand il voulait faire appliquer certaines r`eglesvestimentaires.
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