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THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, APRIL 27-28, 2019 6 TRAVEL + INDULGENCE theaustralian.com.au/travel fter spending most of my life not caring two hoots about birds I’ve become totally fasci- nated by them. I’ve bought books, apps and new binocu- lars and spend way too long Alooking for birds while walking my dog. This new hobby makes for an extra frisson of an- ticipation as I prepare to join the Tasmanian Boat Charters Escape to Port Davey adven- ture. We are bound for Melaleuca, home to the critically endangered orange-bellied par- rots (OBPs to the ornithological crowd) and plenty of equally enchanting feathered locals. No roads lead to Melaleuca unless you count the South Coast Track and the Port tage Museum, an intimate and excellent col- Davey Track, which meet here. Walkers on lection that tells the story of the hardy people the former fly in to begin at this point, hiking who made their lives here, particularly the 84km out through the wilderness to Cockle Kings and the Willsons in alluvial tin mining, Creek; Port Davey trekkers tend to walk 71km WILD and Deny’s sister Win and husband Clyde in and fly out. But with no vehicular access, Clayton in crayfishing. only a handful of people ever get here at all, The Odalisque operation is a part of the which is how Pieter van der Woude, owner of extended Melaleuca community. Our guide our 20m cruising vessel Odalisque, likes it. Mark Holdsworth is a recently retired Tas- The former Tasmanian policeman spent 25 manian Parks and Wildlife conservation years as an abalone diver and has had stints FRONTIER manager who’s been involved with the OBP loading and unloading ships even further recovery effort for more than 20 years. He south, for the Australian Antarctic Division. Rare birds and rich history in remote Tasmania knew, worked with, and I daresay loved Deny Van der Woude got to know the southwest JANE NICHOLLS King. In King’s half-century living here on in those abalone days and a few years ago the edge of the world, he was a miner, conser- decided to “have a crack” at bringing tourists vationist, bushman, naturalist and artist. He here to cruise Bathurst Harbour’s playground built that airstrip with a small bulldozer over of inlets, coves, rivers and bays for a few days three summers in the 1950s, collaborated with at a time. The custom-designed Odalisque all manner of scientists to aid their research winters as a charter vessel in Hobart and and is credited with being the one who sound- heads to Bathurst Harbour from the end of ed the alarm over declining OBP numbers. January to May. As our scenic Par Avion Mark tells us fond stories of sitting with flight from Hobart crosses the Western Ar- King in his garden eating raspberries sur- thur Range, we kiss goodbye to connectivity rounded by orange-bellied parrots. As we and get set for three days of wilderness and walk near King’s old home, a woman on a luxury cruising. bicycle appears on the stony path and gives A blazing white crushed-quartzite airstrip our guide a big hug. She’s Janet Fenton, one at Melaleuca is the gateway to this remote of Deny’s daughters, who still spends several world, and the show begins right away. A tiny months here each year and is holding an pink robin, lolly-bright breast and belly feath- annual working bee for the family and volun- ers framed by charcoal wings and head, seems teers. Of course, she tells Mark, we’re all wel- as curious about us as we are about him (and come to go and look at the home, which is it is a him; the females don’t sport such lairy something of an engineering masterpiece and plumage) and poses on a nearby branch be- still houses the day bed where New Zealand fore returning to his flitty aerial feeding. explorer Edmund Hillary slept on a visit. The next and in some ways central act is Janet and her husband Geoff join us aboard the world of Deny King, a world-famous Odalisque the next afternoon for a drink and pioneer whose 2001 biography King of the she’s happy to share tales of her childhood. Wilderness sums up an astonishing life. I’m The connections van der Woude and his crew ashamed to admit I knew nothing of him, but have with people and nature in these parts begin my education in the Deny King Heri- make this cruise special. At Clayton’s Corner, crayfishers Clyde and Win Clayton’s old home is now a cosy, mem- orabilia-filled hut for walkers to gather, boil a IN THE KNOW billy on the open fire and maybe even take a bath (a sign reminds bathers to prop the stick Port Davey Marine Reserve lies within the in the plughole afterwards to give curious Southwest National Park and the pygmy possums the means to climb out over Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage the slippery sides). At the top of Aerial Hill, Area. Odalisque’s 2020 expedition Mark tells us about Clyde positioning the TV season is scheduled to begin January 21. antenna in analogue days so they could get Each sailing needs a minimum of four just enough reception “to be able to watch the guests for a guaranteed departure and cricket through a snowstorm”. includes return flights from Hobart to Dozens of anecdotes build over the days of Bathurst Harbour with Par Avion, an our cruise to give us a real sense of the lives Experts in experienced guide, a guest chef who these families made here. Like us, they were proudly showcases local produce and drawn here by the pristine, majestic beauty. small-group tours Tasmanian wine and beer. Cruises run Unlike us, they had to be of extraordinary for the discerning four, five or seven days, from $5000 a character to do it. I at once admire their met- person, twin-share, for a three-night, tle and thank my lucky stars (which are bright African Dawn traveller for more four-day cruise in a standard cabin. down here) that I’m travelling these waters UGANDA | RWANDA | ETHIOPIA | ERITREA than 25 years. Odalisque’s capacity is six passengers, aboard Odalisque in such comfort. The boat’s 28 DAYS | ALL INCLUSIVE* | DEPARTS 6 JAN 2020 | from $22,550 or 10 on a private charter. For a sense of light-filled saloon is our home for meals and An exceptional journey timed to coincide with the annual Timkat Festival in some of the places visited, search the also the captain’s chair. Below deck our cab- Addis Ababa. It’s Africa with a difference, as you visit the source of the Nile, interactive Port Davey Adventure Map on ins are comfortable and plenty roomy, with Lake Victoria and the mountain gorillas of Uganda; the tiny landlocked traveldirectors.com.au nation of Rwanda; the extraordinary rock-hewn churches and heritage the Tasmanian Boat Charters website. all-important comfy beds and hi-tech bath- sites of Ethiopia; and the exciting and little-visited nation of Eritrea. ■ tasmanianboatcharters.com.au rooms designed to minimise water waste. * Includes: return economy flights on Emirates; all internal flights in Africa; all ■ tourismtasmania.com Hobart caterer Courtney Drew is aboard to taxes; all visas; Ugandan gorilla permit; all accommodation (twin share); all meals; 1300 856 661 all sightseeing & entrance fees; expert tour leader & guides; and all tipping. cook for our sailing and the next; the com- AUSE01Z01TR - V1 THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, APRIL 27-28, 2019 theaustralian.com.au/travel TRAVEL + INDULGENCE 7 on the feeding table outside Barbara’s living- MORE TO THE STORY room window. We quietly enter to find the table fairly covered with OBPs and beautiful Mark Holdsworth, our guide and expert in firetails tucking into birdseed, a volunteer orange-bellied parrot breeding biology, carefully recording the tagged OBPs’ has spent decades on the recovery comings and goings. Most are projects for Melaleuca’s star bird, juveniles, explains Mark, as the aka the OBP (pictured). There adults have already flown are estimated to be fewer than north for the winter. The 50 adult birds in the wild, with loss of OBP habitat in more captive-bred juveniles South Australia and released each year to try to Victoria is key to their boost numbers. He takes us to demise and Wildcare Inc’s Barbara Willson’s house to Friends of the Orange- make sure we see some. Willson Bellied Parrot is dedicated to and her late husband ran their tin buying them time, through mine here until 2007; today the research, captive breeding and a impressive Mad Max-esque operation novel “assisted migration” program that remains as testament to their inventiveness. brings juveniles raised in captivity on the Her home is a base for OBP volunteers, who mainland back to Melaleuca for release. Clockwise from far left: seacave at Port come to Melaleuca on two-week rosters Hearing about it all in learned detail from Davey; sunset from Balmoral Hill; the late from late September until the end of April. A Mark is a cruise highlight. Deny King; Odalisque cruiser; bush trek to key observation post is the telescope trained ■ wildcaretas.org.au/branches/friendsobp/ Melaleuca with Mount Rugby beyond pany uses a range of chefs. From the compact and I’m reminded of the heritage museum’s through rainforest up Balmoral Hill above the only found in deep oceans. Here in the dark, but well-equipped galley, she cheerily whips description of “wet-day jobs” for the tireless Claytons’ hut for spectacular views of the freezing water lie colonies of sea pens, sea up tremendous meals — scallops, fish curry, King family: repairs and making clothes, tools waterways, about three times the size of Syd- fans and sea whips.

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