FROM CAPE TO CAPE Tasmania’s South Coast Track Richard Bennett FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett 1 FOREWORD From Cape to Cape presents a portrait in both photographs and Through adventure and exploration, Richard’s photography words of a unique and special place. It has been brought to life in embodies his joy of the natural world, whether it is by tackling perpetuity by Richard Bennett through his ability to capture the true the high seas, scaling mountains, trekking through valleys or just essence of the region through his vibrant photography and insightful camping out. His thoughtful contemplation, expressed in his observations. images and words, delight and inspire. The Southern Transit – South West Cape to South East Cape It has also been my privilege to share in many of these adventures. of Tasmania – concentrates all that is captivating and inspiring about the geomorphology and botanical richness of the Southern I first met Richard in the mid-1980s when I was Tasmanian wilderness. contemplating taking on what is known by many as the This portrait is a small but important step in managing the ultimate bush walk, Federation Peak, in the heart of the Richard with Stuart McGregor at Scotts Peak after a tough wet trip to the Western Arthurs. encroaching footprint of man. Critically, it provides a snapshot in time to assist in the preservation of this extraordinary place for Tasmanian Southwest wilderness region. I’d heard that future generations. Through its pages, it delivers vicarious access and few, if any, had visited the area or knew more about it than understanding, permitting participation and personal experience. Richard. I sought his advice. Instead of advice he said he This body of work acts as a clear reminder of the purity of this part of would take me there and he did, beginning what has been the Tasmanian wilderness. As urbanisation becomes more intense, a wonderful friendship of more than 30 years, taking us to the challenge to sustain and nurture this and places like it, becomes every part of the Tasmanian wilderness and beyond. even more important in our quest for balance and to ensure the survival of our native flora and fauna. Through his determination, Richard has successfully concluded another chapter with this volume of pictures and words, focussing our attention on the mysteries of nature for all those who care and for all those who might be encouraged to care, about a remote and remarkable wilderness. Stuart J. McGregor 4 FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett 5 INTRODUCTION Growing up in the small country town of Geeveston, I was always To the southeast, Mt La Perouse and Pindars Peak were far away. aware of Hartz Peak. It was the highest point in the landscape I walked back to our vehicle, backwards at times, absolutely above magnificent eucalypt forests and the source of the Arve River. enchanted by this amazing environment. What an exciting place! It looked wonderful after heavy winter snow and a glance at the I decided then to return again soon and did so for weekends during mountain always gave a good idea of the weather. the following year. Very few people walked up the Kermandie track to the Hartz. Most locals weren’t interested. The land was too sour to grow This first encounter with Southwest Tasmania made a anything and the mountains and buttongrass plains extended all the way to Port Davey. lasting impression, and it started a chain reaction. When the Forestry Commission built a logging road into the Arve Valley in the 1950s, there was talk of the road being pushed closer to I attended an adventure camp near Dover in 1962 to improve my bush the Hartz Mountains. I kept hearing about the Hartz from that time skills, and then the following year, I did a ten-day walk to the Western and I became interested to go there. Arthur Range. It was a defining experience. I found these mountains and lakes extraordinarily beautiful. One violent storm produced I had my opportunity in 1960. A young minister, Max Smith, came to wind, rain and mist, which howled around the peaks with a violence Geeveston and encouraged the local boys to attend his youth group. that I had never imagined. And then the sun would come out to One weekend he took us out to the Hartz to stay in the old hut for the reveal mountains as far as the eye could see. Once again I could not night and to climb the Peak. take my eyes from Federation Peak, a dominant feature even from so My first experience of the Tasmanian wilderness was to change my far away. That was a mountain I was determined to climb, but first I life. The Hartz has a timeless quality about it. There were no sounds needed a camera. I decided on a Pentax with interchangeable lenses. other than trickling water, the birds and the whisper of the wind In December 1964 I was part of a Hobart Walking Club trip led by through the trees. The air was different too. It was cool and crisp. Bruce Cole. During that very wet ten days, we completed the first east I could almost feel the weather. The alpine plants were new to me, to west traverse of Precipitous Bluff. This spectacular mountain rises and the lakes below the Devils Backbone were clear and filled with almost sheer above New River Lagoon, and is the dominant feature of the best water I had ever tasted. the South Coast Track. Hartz Peak overlooked it all. And from the summit, Mt Picton, to our northwest, beckoned. To the west, the magnificent jagged silhouette of Federation Peak dominated the skyline. To our south, Precipitous Bluff rose sheer for 4000 feet out of the valley. Pencil Pine at Lake Osborne in the Hartz Mountains National Park. 8 FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett 9 Federation Peak from below Thwaites Plateau. Par Avion aircraft over the Western Arthur Range. There were exceptions to my fascination with Federation Peak. The hardships and successes of the Andean Expedition After numerous memorable winter traverses of the Western Arthurs, taught me that I could achieve anything that I wanted. another wonderful walk, the South Coast Track, later became a I decided I was going to be a professional photographer. favourite spring or autumn option. The South Coast Track is far less That decision, which came from my love of wild places, demanding than alpine walks because it is coastal and protected. The proximity of the sea, ocean beaches and coastal plains make for has shaped my life. easy relaxed walking with comfortable sheltered campsites. That first visit to the Hartz started a journey that introduced me to With Dot Butler’s encouragement I did apply to join the Australian wild places, light aircraft, photography and adventurous people. Andean expedition. I was selected. In 1969 I went to Peru as a I built my life and career around those experiences. member of Australia’s first Andean expedition; in fact, it was the first-ever Australian mountaineering expedition. During the winter After publishing numerous volumes of photographs (12 to date) it months of 1969, we made 23 ascents of 18 mountains, which were up is time for me to share three of my favourite walks in Southwest to 20,000 feet high (13 of them first ascents). Tasmania, with some suggestions about my preferences for food, clothing and equipment. This book contains both photographs and digital images, which I have taken over more than fifty years of walking, sailing and flying around the South Coast Track. 12 FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett FROM CAPE TO CAPE | Richard Bennett 13 FLYING IN TO MELALEUCA When walking the South Coast Track, I prefer to start from It was January 1965 when I first walked to Melaleuca after having Melaleuca. That way the prevailing weather is behind you. A strong traversed the Southern Ranges and Precipitous Bluff. We flew out southwester at your back can be useful, particularly climbing the from the tiny gravel airstrip that was built and completed by Ironbounds. Deny King in 1957. From the moment the aircraft starts to roll at Cambridge Airport During the 1970s I revisited the area as an occasional guide for you begin your journey into a timeless land, where all of the Wilderness Tours, a company founded by our neighbours at distractions of the modern world will be put on-hold. The tarmac Geeveston, Bob and Sanne Geeves. recedes and as you bank to the south, households with pools, horses, Over the years I sometimes met Deny King during my short visits. gardens and paddocks fall away as you head to Droughty Point. He would often walk across to the airstrip in his gumboots to collect The River Derwent appears and to the west the ever expanding city his mail and freight. Sometimes I was lucky enough to be invited to of Hobart folds over the lower slopes of Mount Wellington and along his home for a cup of tea. Deny always seemed relaxed and I could the shores and hillsides. often sense that another dry humorous observation was about to be added to the already long list of one-liners. This city view quickly gives way to small towns and rural Deny built the first bushwalkers hut in 1960 to accommodate the landscapes as the trappings of human endeavour recede far ever-increasing number of visitors. He named the hut in memory below and give way to eucalypt forest, wild rivers and finally of his father Charles.