TT 518 .V3 Copy 1 INSTRUCTION BOOK

With Illustrations

To be used only as a

Guide and Partial Study in the

Expert Course in Dressmaking

TAUGHT BY MRS. W. E. VAN AME IN the'' S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL of SARTORIAL ARTS

EDITION 1915-lG

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 191o, by Mrs, Emma W. V'an Aine in tlic office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C.

PUBLISHED BY Mrs. \\'. E. Van Ame, Cleveland, Ohio

INSTRUCTION BOOK

with Illustrations

FOR and Fitting Course

S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PARLORS

EDITION 191 I

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 191 1, by Mrs. Emma \V. Van Ame, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PUBLISHED BY

MRS. W. E. VAN AME, Mgr. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL FORT WAYNE, INDIANA S. T. TAYLOR

School of Garment Cutting, Dress Making, % Ladies' Tailoring and Designing ><''o^

PUBLISHERS OF

LE BON TON and LE MONITEUR DE LA MODE United The Most Exclusive Magazine Published

Established in 1851

announcp:ment

FORT WAYNE, IND.

We take pleasure in announcing Ihat Mrs. W. E. Van Anie, of 720 Calhoun vStreet, Fort Wayne, Ind., has again been pre- vailed upon, through her past success and the many requests from patrons and jnipils. to extend her slay in Fort Wayne. Therefore, we beg to announce that she will continue to conduct personally and superintend the school for teaching the S. T. TAYLOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING, FITTING, DE- SIGNING, DRESS MAKING and LADIES' TAILORING at the above address for another six months. We can Ihoroughly recommend Mrs. Van Ame as an efficient teacher of our System in training pupils either for businesss or home use. Those desiring to become teachers of our system, or to do independent work, will be specially trained by her to do so. She is also prepared to furnish terms and locations for teachers' agencies upon application. Mrs. Van Ame Tdls orders for pinned paper models, kccjMng on display an elegant line of them. Order for subscriptions to our fashion journal, Lii Hon Ton .\nu Lk MoNiTEUR DE LA MouE I.IniTEd are filled by Mrs. \'an Ame.

S. T. TAYLOR CO., Publishers Le Bon Ton and Le Moniteur De La Mode United

1J-15 West _^,4th St., New York

©GI,A4J7170 ((^-,7^1 DEC 13 1915 Workroom Necessities

THE TOOLS NECESSARY in the dn'ss-maker's he h;id, at very reasonable prices, in stock sizes, to adjustable. The ad- shop, i)v l'

TRACING WHEELS A best quality steel tracing The size of the thread to be used depends upon wheel witii deep shar]) points, is quite essential for tiii> quality of the work. Never use other than a marking purposes. good quality, snuio'th thread.

CHALK, MARKING COTTON. TRACING . Avoid using an infei'ior (]uality of pins, CLOTH, ilcsiih's the tracing wlieel, it is necessary as they will leave an obvious hole on removing them, to keep (in liand, for nuu-king purposes, white, pink and besides will not penetrate the material smoothly. and blue ' chalk, several colors of thread For pinning , velvets and daint.y fabrics use called mai'king cotton. Also a sheet of tracing fine needles, as they leave no mark after being re- cloth will be found a great convenience as well as a moved. time and labor saver. . The sewing ma.'hine . A good dress form or draping should receive much consideration. Always keeji it stand is a most desirable adjunct. 'I'hese forms can in good working order, with a perfect . INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR SEWING AND FITTING COURSE

TAPE MEASURE. The tnpe measure should be rule and a perfect tailors' square should find a of stroniT liiKU and tested as to aceuraey. An in- plaee in every work room. ^vill eause mueh trouble and ai'curate MIRROR. The fitting mirror should be sufficient- niauy mistakes. 1\ huge to reflect a view of the figui-e from the crown of the head to the tips of the shoes. . The thimble must be good fitting. toil small and is to be worn ou Xcilhcr large nor too SEWING CHAIR. The seAving chair should be the seeond finger of the right hand. free from arms. It should be low to avoid the use SKIRT RULE AND SQUARE. A 4S-ineh skirt of foot stools.

Sponging and Shrinking

Great care and attention should be directed to- ably dry, but if it is thick and heavy, do not wring ward the careful shrinking of all Avoolens and linens mueh. Spread the goods out smooth on a long table and such weaves and materials as are inclined to with the right sides folded in. then lay the wet shrink when coming in contact with dampness. For cloth on it. straightening out all wrinkles. The end if this part of the work is not properly done much of tiie wet cloth should extend two or three feet trouble results later on in the construction and be- beyond the goods. Take a board as long as the sides there is the risk of the garment losing its goods is wide folded, and about ten inches wide shape, should it be worn on a damp day or be and roll the goods on it, first wrapping the end of caught in the rain. the wet cloth around it. Care must be taken that Different materials should be treated according folds or plaits are not prevalent when rolling up the to their various needs. Remove all selvedges before material, as they will be quite difficult to remove putting the cloth to the process of shrinking. when they are once in. Leave the material on the board from 2 to 4 hours according to the thickness BROADCLOTH must be shrunk by steam. On a of it, as it must be thoroughly dampened all the way well ]>a(lded talde. the larger the better, spread through, after which it should be pressed until it is over two thicknesses of the broadcloth and this lay dry. Use irons that are only moderatelj' hot, for a thick cotton cloth that is quite wet. With a rather the shrinking yaW be more complete if the pressing hot iron, press this wet cloth, forcing the steam is done slowly. This process of shrinking uuist down and through the broadcloth, and continue this never be used for materials with a glossy finish. jn-or-ess until the cotton cloth or sponge rag is neai"ly However, the steam process used for glossy ma- and lK>auty nniiniiaind. be immersed in water and dried in the open air. Repeat this treatment two or three times, for linen GLOSSY FINISHED WOOLENS. Th." above shrinks more while it is drying than when it is in rule for shrinking broadt-loth ai)plies to all weaves the water. Before it is entirely dry. after wetting with a glossy finish which require shrinking. it for the last time, linen should be pressed smooth CHEVIOTS. SERGES AND ALL WORSTEDS with moderately hot ii-ons. The average linen suit- THAT ARE MADE WITHOUT A GLOSSY FIN- ing can remain in water over night without in.iury. ISH must be shi'uid^ by being rolled (in a board with While the drying is taking place, care should be A wft cloth Itetwecn the folds in the following man- taken not to have too strong a light on the linen, for ner: Unl)leach<'cl muslin a yard wide makes the best the best dyes are sometimes damaged if left in a shrinking cloth, because it is wide enough to extend very bright light for any length of time. beyond the edges of the woolen, aiul all parts thei'C- fore receive an equal amount of moisture. The mus- CANVAS AND HAIRCLOTH. Canvas and lin should be at least a yard longer than the piece of haircloth should lie [lut in water and left for at least goods to be sponged. Wet it in sliglitly warm water. half an hour. Then it is taken out and hung up to If the goods to be sponged is a light weight material, dry and just before it is dry. take a hot iron, press the shrinking cloth shoidd be wrung until reason- it dry, using care to press all the wi'inkles out. Every S. T. TAYLOK SCHOOL AMD PATTERN TAliLORS

sci'iip of canvas placi'd inside of a dress or coat, The above instructions will only sponge and should be tlioroughly shrunk. shrink, but not refinish goods, this being only pos- Hear in mind that all materials must be perfectly sible at such places where they have the necessary dry before attempting to cut into them. machinerv to do it with.

Patterns

The pattei-ns used in cutting a i^aiiueiii should destrnetiou of the material for which they may be correspond as near as possible with the measure- used. The best pattern is always economy in the end. ments of the individual for whom the garment is to LAYING OF PATTERNS ON MATERIAL. !)(' made. Jf you use the S. T. Taylor system of If you have our S, T, Taylor system of dress-cut- dress and garment-cutting, you will not have any ling, you have been taught how to mark your pat- difficulty in this respect and alterations will practic- terns for lading on the thread of the material. If ally be unnecessary. If you do not use the S. T. you use patterns made by us, you Avill find each Taylor system, then an S. T. Taylor pattern to iiuli- part marked for the proper position on material. vidual measurements will be found economy and Ivieii pattern company have their patterns marked well worth the price we ask for them. When used for the proper position on the material. It is very in combination with this instruction book the re- essential that the cutter pay strict attention in plac- sults are highly satisfactory. In many instances ing the markings on the exact thread of the ma- alterations will be unnecessary, and when altera- terial. Carelessness at this part of the will tions are required, they will be very slight and sim- work cause defects and trouble when putting the garment ple. (See fitting.) S. T. Taylor patterns are illus- together and in the fitting of it. trated in their fashion magazine "'Le Bon Ton." The price list of same, as well as pattern agencies, Calculation should always be made before cutting will also be found in "Le Bon Ton." The style, the material to prevent waste and mistakes. It is lines and fit of the S. T. Taylor patterns are far su- important to note if there is an up and down to the perior to all others. However, there are several material either in the way of figure, finish or nap. other very reputable pattern companies who make If plaid or striped material is to be used, the match- patterns to measurements. Any of these patterns ing or designing of same should be thoroughly will be found much more satisfactory than the in- jtlanned before cutting any part of the garment. ferior patterns sold at a nominal price, with disap- This will be referred to again. (See Matching pointment and loss of money following through the Stripes and Plaids.)

Marking Goods

Now that you have the pattern properly placed Thread marking or marking requires much on the fabric, next you will proceed to mark all more time, but in instances where it is desired to seams, as well as waist line, bust line, elbow line, retain the mark until the garment is finished, or tracing elbow point, centre front of skirt, centre back of where would injure the fabric, then thread marking is most desirable. Take a needle full of skirt, and all markings on the i>attern which are thread, u.sing it double, and baste on the line to be placed there to assist in joining the garment togeth- marked, using a rather short .stitch, at each stitch er. ^Liny times these markings can be made with leave a loop large enough so you could put the end the . A sheet of tracing cloth placed of your finger in; after you have it all marked, and underneath the fabric before tracing (or between its cut out (See IIow to Cut Out Material) , pull the folds when desiring to mark two thicknesses), the cloth apart as far as the loops will permit and cut tracing will show more distinetlj*. Espeeiallj' is this the marking thread in the centre between the two a great convenience in marking soft weaves where sides of the cloth, which will leave both sides of both tracing will not .show. pieces of the cloth marked. INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR SEWING AND FITTING COURSE

How to Cut Out Material—Allowing for Seams

Great cai'o must 1)0 cxcreised in cutting out cloth terations, and I/O inch for all other seams. The al- to allow for all scams, and turnings. The lowance at the openings of fancy waists must be in amount to allow on the shoulder and underarm accordance to the style of closing selected. The seams is % oi' im im'h at each, 2 inches at the open- allowance at the bottom of skirts must also be made

ing of the waist ; 1 inch at the centre back according to the manner of finish intended. of skirt, 1 inch at the bottom of skirt for al- Finishing Closing Edges

First finish the closing edges:—Cut an inch wide and slip the l)one, from the bottom up, into the cas- strip of (previously shrunk) canvas on the true bias, ing made by the two stitchings, placing the bone making it as long as the closing edge of the garment. between the lining and canvas, keeping the canvas Baste it along the inner edge of the marking for the underneath the lione. (The canvas, later on, will closing edge ; then fold the 2 inch allowance at be in readiness as a substantial stay to sew the hooks the marking over the canvas and baste to position, and eyes to.) Slip the bone upward until it is i/'o ^[achine stitch one-eighth inch from edge of closing inch above the bottom of the waist, then fasten at from neck curve to bottom of waist. Stitcth again the waist line, spring slightly, and fasten i/2 inch the full length of the closing three-eight.s of an inch below top of bone, again at every 2 inches between inside of the first closing. Mark the closing directly the two fastenings. Then fasten at bottom of bone ojiposite the top of the first , then mark again and once again midway to the waist line. (For fas- at 1 inch below the mark. Measure from the last tening and springing bones, see Boning.) The two mark to within % inch from the bottom of the closing edges are to be finished exactly alike. The waist, and cut a whale bone the .same length as the hooks to be sewed on the right side, the eyes on the measurement. (For preparing whalebone for use left. s(>e Boning). Hold the fi'ont with the right side up Sewing On Hooks and Eyes

]\rake a Tiiark on the underside of the closing edge even stitches, along the edge which rests under the at the waist line and mark at ev(>ry three-fourths of bill of the hooks. Cut tlie canvas away so it does an inch from that mark to the neck curve ; then not show, and blind the other edge of hem. umi-k from the waist line at every three-fourths of Sew loop eyes on the left closing edge allowing an inch to the bottom of the waist. Both closing them to project one-eighth inch from edge. With a edges are to be marked in the same manner. single thread of twist sew through each ring three At each mark, along the right closing edge sew times. Fasten at side with and carry a No. 2 hook, keeping the bill of th(^ hook one-eighth thread along to next mark and so on until all the of an inch back fi'om the edge. Sew with a single eyes are in position. Turn the 2 inch allowance thread, hole twist being ]ireferable. Sew hem over the eyes to within one-sixteenth inch of tlie through each looj) lliree times, catch a back stitch closing edge. Baste to position and ovei-hand with at the side to fasten thread, carry thread to bill of small, close stitches, catching two stitches within the hook and fasten bill. Again catch back .stitch at loop of the eye. Cut the c;nivas away so it does not side of hook and pass thread along to the next mark show and blind the other edge of h(>m. The eyes and so on until all the hooks are in place. Precise must be set accurate and true, the same as the hooks. care must be taken so that Uw hooks when sewed in Where the hem is not wide enough to permit of position will rest perfectly horizontally and exactl.V the above finish, cover the fastening of the hooks on the nuirks. If the hooks or ey(>s are ajiplied in a and eyes as well as the edge of the hem by twisted position, the garment will never fit correct- with a bias strip of thin . Fell ])oth edges down ly. Turn the 2 inch allowance hem over under the very smoothly. Ribbon oi- single bone casing may bill of the hooks, alloM'ing it to r(>st ea.sy against tlie also b(> apidied, this being sewed on a trifle full to hook turning; baste in position then fell, with close. ndmit oT the outside gixiug to the foi-iii. S. T. TAYLOli SCHOOL AND PATTEHX PARLOUS

How to Do Basting

The foundation of a great many evils in dress- "good basting insures good fitting." It is necessary making is often duo to inaceuratc and poor l)asting. to have the bastings true and even that they may Good and thorough basting is one of the things you be used as a guide when stitching. By stitching must depend on for "that smartly finished effeet" closely along the basting, either inside or outside of so deserving of ailmiration in first-elass work and it, and not crossing it, will avoi;('iii ral liasting. The needle employed Therefore, baste carefully and projierly and the re- for basting should be short (they are called "Be- sult will be visible in every detail of your work. Xo tweens" or Tailors' Needles), No. 7 is the correct one can expect to master the art of i)erfect dress- size for general basting. This style needle will making who is not willing to baste well. Ten or enable the seamstress to take deep, firm sitehes. fifteen minutes' carelul basting will often obviate a close togethei-, which will hold the goods so firmly half day's ripping and changing. A dress never while the nuichine stitching is being done that the looks or fits well that has been taken apart for improvement will be noticeable to even an un- changes or alterations. Consequentl.v. remember "a tiained eye. leaving behind one of the' earmarks of good baster makes a good ," and that the amateur dressmaker.

For Basting

PREPARING THE WAIST LINING FOR BAST- Tin the two back parts together at the waist line, ING, l-'irsl take a iirrdlc ami tlnva.l .-lud IlinIc then baste the centre back seam from the waist line along in small stitches like this — up to the neck curve, then from the waist line down on the waist and bust lines of each piece to bottom of waist. of the waist and on the center front lin(> of the waist lin(> of the side form seam of the each front. As the arndioles and neck of a garment l)ack to the wai.st line of the corresponding seam are liable to stretch when handling, a basting thread of the sideform. then baste from the wai.st line uj) must be run around these along the marking for the to the shouldei', keei)ing the back toward you. Then seam, using the above size stitch, and drawing the I'l'oni the waist line down. thread up natural, that is. luuther too tight nor too Pin the waist line of the side form to loose. Then fasten .so that it cannot give. This will seam the waist line of the corresponding avoid any undn(> stretching ai-ound arndiole or neck underai-m seam. Then baste from the waist line curve. Use a different colored thi'<'ad to run these u]), keeping the side- form toward you. Then baste lines in from what you use to baste the waist to- from the Avaist line down. gether with, so that when the bastings are drawn In out you will not accidentally draw out these, as they basting the front and side front with the seam extending to will need to be left in the lining until the waist is the shoulder, pin the top of the dart finished. of the front to the top of the dart of the side front and l)aste from the toji of the dart to the shoulder, BASTING THE WAIST LINING. In basting the keeping the side front toward yon. Then pin the wai>t liniiii; togetlicr make small stitches like these waist lines together, you will now find the side front — — — — — — for, if any larger, the seams will to be one-fourth inch longer than the front. The gap in trying on the waist. Take but one stitch on extra length is to ])e gathered and evenly distribu- the needle at a time. In .ioining the parts of the ted in a S|)aee 2 inches below the top of the dart to wai.st together, use great care that the waist lines give over the bust. Baste from the top of the ol' the i)arts to be joined are exactly together; do dart down to the liottom of the waist. not allow lliein to \ai-v (Uii' thread. la basting darts, pin the waist lines together, then INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR SEWING AND FITTING COURSE

baste from the top of the dart down to the bottom ward the under, the two outside markings for seam lays pei-fectly flat on the of vvaist. meeting so that the upper lines l^aste the underarm seam of the forepart to the table. Pin them together along the marked mulerarm seam of the underarm, keeping the front from the elbow line up. Then turn the upper (below toward you, basting from the waist line up, then the elbow line), over to meet the under, so that the table. Pin them from the waist line down. upper lays perfectly fiat on the together. remove the pin which holds the el- The shoulder is now to be basted. Pin the neck Now fullness in a space (racing of the back at the shoulder point, to the bow lines together. the neck tracing of the front, and the shoulder of the of 1 inch above and 1 inch below the elbow line with one-eighth back at the tracing for armhole to shoulder of front two rows of gatherings, keeping them inch apart, this will obviate the gathers pushing at same tracing. You Avill find the shoulder of the the front one-half inch shorter than the shoulder of the into the plaits when stitching. Then arrange fullness across the elbow, evenly above and below back; stretch the front until it is the same length elbow^ line. unpin the flat seam. Then as the back, keeping it stretched until basted. In the Now in the usual seam, be- rare cases where the front cannot be stretched pin the sleeve again togetlier basting, beginning at top, holding the upper enough, hold the back a little easy in basting. (This fore the part next to you. Notch the top portion of the is done to make the dress fit smoothly over the hol- the seam and low part of the shoulder in front, obviating the sleeve at two inches from back at Gather the top folds and wrinkles which so frequently appear down three inches from the front seam. even running stitch on the the front from the shoulder and neck lines.) Baste of the sleeve with small, then Ihe shoulder seam from the neck curve to armhole, marking for the seam between the notches, keeping the front toward you. again one-eighth inch below the first gathering. The waist can be opened either front or back, as BASTING SKIRT FOUNDATION. First run a desired. If to 1)6 opened in the back, baste the two liasting along the centre l)a,ck seam as a stay to keep fronts together, by first pinning waist lines together, the bias edges from stretching. Thread mark waist then baste from the waist line up to the neck, and line, centre front of skirt and all markings which from the waist line down to the l)ottom of waist. are to be retained for future use. Then pin the BASTING THE SLEEVE LINING TOGETHER. seams of the skirt together at the waist line, and Lay the upper of the sleeve, riglit side up, on the again at every two inches from the w'aist line down basting table and the under with the right side fac- to the bottom of the skirt using care not to stretch

ing the upper on top of it ; the marking for the el- the bias edges of the seams. Baste the seams, com- liow line of the upper and the marking for the el- mencing at the waist line and baste to the bottom of bow line of the under meeting at the inside seam. the skirt keeping the bias side up. All skirt seams Baste the inside seam together from the elbow line are to be pinned the full length, and all are to be 1o the top of the sleeve, and from the elbow line to basted the full length, with the exception of the the bottom of the sleeve, keeping the upper part up seam to be used for the opening. This is to toward you. be left open from the top down from 9 to 14 inches, Lay the sleeve on the basting table so that the according to the size of the individual. A stay tape outside seam is toward you, and the under is on top is to be basted along each edge of the placket to the upper. Turn the upper part of the sleeve, the keep them from stretching. In joining two bias ti'acing for the elbow of the upper meeting the trac- seams together they must be stayed with stay tape. ing for the elbow of the under, at the outside seam. Silk seam answers very nicely as a stay tape Fasten tlie two together with a pin. Tui-n the u])per for light weight materials. The lining skirt is now part of the sleeve, abovi' the dhow line, o\cr, to- rcadv for the fitting. How to Slash Seams

It is decidedly wrong to attempt to fit a garment Slash all seams to within one-eighth inch of the without first slashing the seams at the proper y)laoes sewing line. to admit of spring. When slashing seams at the waist line, use great Slash all seams (Avith the exception of the under- care to slash exactly on the waist line. arm and shoulder seams which are to be left un- slashed for convenience, in case alteration might be Slash the centre back seam at the waist line, and

necessary), according to tlir rollowitig insti'iictions : again at three and six inches al>ove. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS

Slash the seam of the haek and side form at the the slash below the top of the dai't, again at mid- waist Hue, and ajjain at tliree inches, again at two way between the two slashes, and again at half-way and and one-half inches. In the remainiler of the between the U|)i)er slash and neck curve. seam make two nioi'e slasiies at e(|nal distances in The undei'arm and shouldei' seams are not to be the poition of the back oid.y. slashed until the gai'meut has l)een fitted. After Slash the sideforni and nnderanii scam at the all necessary alterations have been made, before re- waist line in i)oth sideforni antl nnderaiiii portions, moving the waist, slash the underarm seam at the and at intervals of two inches fr'om the waist line waist line, and twice above at equal distances. Slash u|i in the side poi'tion only. the shoulder seam in the portion of the back only, at Slash the fi'f)nt and side-front seam at the waist half way between the armhole and neck curve. Al- lini'. Then at one inch i)elow the to)» of the dart ways bear in mind these seams may ajijjcar some- and again at half way lietwcen the tAvo clippinirs, what drawn, until after they have been slashed. again at half way between tln' top "f the d.ii-t :iiid Slash all seams at t^vo and one-half inches below the shonldcr. the waist line. Slash dai-ts at the Avaist line, then at onc^ inch Sleeves ai'c slashed along the inside seam cndy. below the top of the dart, again at half-way between Slash at the elbow line, then at intervals of two the two cliiii)ings. inches the full length of the seam. After slashing, If the garment is to open in the back, slash th(> turn the sleeve right side out, then it is in readiness centi'c front seam at the waist line, then at oppositi' for tlie fitlin}!;.

Collar Canvas for First Fitting

Cut collar, on true bias, from jilain jiiece of thin fourth inch higher at both front and back than the

•;invas. making it om and on-'-liair inches li.ngci- height of the neck at front and back. See to it that than siz(> i>\' neck where collai' is to rest, and one- the collar canvas is in readiness for the first fitting. How to Do Fitting

The fitter frequently causes luM-self much troidjle the beautiful lines and cui'ves of the high pi'iced cor- through not knowing just where to commence to sets, if tlie bulkiness of an illfitting corset cover ob- eorrect an error. She can readily see that some- literates them. Therefore, let the corset cover fit thing is wrong, but cannot tell how to remedy the smoothly and perfcctl.y. Any in the difficulty, and. after many trials and attempts, the mannci' of ribbons and laees should be ai)plied flatly. work may seem to be right, yet the general effect In fact, the entire corset cover may be made from will not be pleasing. It is the '"knowing how" that rii)bon and laee and yet fit as smoothly as a glove. must be carefully acquired. It is quite as important to see to it that the petti- coats are well fitting, with neat and smooth waist If the garment has been correctly drafted accord- bands. ing to the S. T. Taylor system, the fitting will be easy. simjile and If any alterations should be need- TO FIT A WAIST. Slip it on. i)ull the waist line ed, they will be very slight. If much alteration is down to position and hook closing edge at the waist found to be necessary the worker is sadly at fault, line. th(>n at the neck. Draw the waist (Uit on the eithei-, of in the taking m<>asurem(mts, in the making shoulder toward th(> arndiol(\ smooth it across the of till' draft, 01- in the joining of the parts together. bust and back. Now finish hooking the full length In either instance, searcli for the mi,stake, make a of the closing edge by eonuneneing at the waist line new draft and cut a new lining. Never try to refit and hooking up toward the neck, then from the the spoiled lining. waist line down. Pull the wai.st down well all Hefore sli])ping the waist on for the fitting, see around at the waist line, and pin the waist line down to it that the corset cover has no extra fullness be- firndy to the corset, first at the centre back, again at low the bust line. Much of the fit of the garment midway fi'om there to the neck curve. Then pin at may dei)end upon the corset cover. The corset cover the waist line the centre front to the corset, and nnist fit as smoothly, and cut from as good lines, as again at two in(dies below the bust line, so as when the eor.set beneath it. Wherein can lie any benefit of making alterations at underarm seam the garment :

COUIiSIC 10 INSTRUCTION BOOK 1'01{ SEWING AND FITTINC

cannot dnnv out of alignment. Should you omit WRINKLES AT THE BACK NEAR THE NECK nf the Tullowing causes: The pinning- wrll at the waist line l)efore making altera- will be due to one to waist line. tions at the slioukler, your waist will very likely centre back being too long from neck become short waisted. In this case it will be necessary to open the shoulder correct position and pin. After the garment is pinned to position, as aliovc seam and bring back up to at this point, it will directed, should it seem too tight or too loose, it is If much alteration is needed in the seam of the to be altered at the nnderarm and shoulder seams necessitate an alteration curved been only, by taking in or letting out as required. (If the side back. If caused by the shoulders having garment has been correctly cut to measurements by taken in or sloped too much, especially if the shoul- the .shoulder seam from the the S. T. Taylor system, if alterations should be re- ders are too square, open as necessary, quired they "will "be very slight). It is absolutely neck curve toward the armhole as far wrong (and must never be done) to alter a waist at fit, and pin to position. The shoulder line of the the front lines, over the bust. JSlo matter how full front should not be changed when making these al- the bust may be, the present way of drafting will terations. These wrinkles may also be caused by the always insure the necessary fullness in the seams shoulder seam of the back not having been slashed over the bust. or from the finish of the seam being drawn too taut. It should not be necessary to make any alterations, WRINKLES EXTENDINPt DOWNWARD FROM but the most experienced sometimes makes mis- THE FRONT SHOULDER LINE AND FRONT OF takes. With l)eginners they will more frequently ARMHOLE are caused by the front not being occur, and for their benefit the following instruc- stretched sufficiently, Avhen basted to the back, at tions are given, and will be found beneficial when the shoulder seam. Open the shoulder seam, i)in in errors are made position and when rebnsting use care to stretch the CROSSWISE WRINKLES IN THE UNDERARM front to meet the back. Tf the front was stretched one-half inch at the first basting the alteration PIECE. The i-easoii for this is, that 1lic front edge should not require more than another eighth or quar- of the sidi' back, instead of being held a trifle full, ter inch. (See basting the was stretched to the underarm piece. To remedy shoulder seam, under "ITow to Baste.") Wrinkles around the armliole this it will be necessary to open the seam and full it may also be caused from too much material at that a little more on the nnderarm form, and baste the curve. stretched edge, easy, back again to the nnderarm With tailors' chalk mark around the armhole form. a correct line for sewing in the sleeve. Then slasli around the edge of the armhole ciuwe, being careful WRINKLES BETWEEN THE LAST DART AND not to cut through the mark for the serving in of the UNDERARM PIECE are caused by the back seam of sleeve. Keep the armhole as small as possible, with- the dart being stretched. This edge must be held out binding. This necessitates having the lining with a little ease when basting it to the opposite high under the arm. The armhole is one of the most seam of the dart. The only remedy for this will be important parts of the lining, for more good or to open the seam of the dart, and relniste, iiolding damage may be accomplished with it than with any the back seam a little easy on the front. other portion. Therefore, be unusually careful to keep the armhole small. A small well-fitted arm- WRINKLES IN SEAMS are often caused by hole permits of a sleeve that will give greater free- cro()k-('d and iiii|>rrlVct basting. The only remedy dom to the movements of the arm, for it is obvious for this is to rip, iiasic o\er again, taking care to that if the armhole is cut out too much, the .sleeve have a perfect seam. Wi'inkles in seams afe some- will dras; the waist when (he arm is raised. And tinies caused by uneven stitching or too tight tention besides, the higher the garment is fitted under the on machine. Again the only remedy is rijiping and arm the longer waisted the person appears. ]\Iany putting together again more perfectly. Wi'inkles people have an idea that a large armhole means may also be caused by th<' seams not being in'o|)erly comfort, but such is not the case. The garment slashed. should be a little higher (easier) at the back of the WRINKLES AT THE WAIST LINE are usually armhole than it is in the front, and keeping the caused by llie scams iKil being slash<'d deep <>nough. armhole Ir'gh in the back will greatly assist you in also by tight binding or overcasting. Sometimes fitting a sleeve that will permit the wearer to bend they are caused by the low(>r part of the waist being her arm and move foi'ward her elbow without an un- too tight. Tf it cannot l>e stretched into shajx'. the comfoi'table drag in the back where the sleeve .ioins seams must be let out. Then again, if the waist is the waist. When the arndiole gaps it is either be- too wide it will wrinkle. IF so it must be taken in. caiise it was wrongly cut, or because it was not S. T. T.\>I.()Il SCHOOL AM) I'ATTEKX PAHLORS 11

properly stayi'tl with a tlirciid licFore .ioining the this is to let out the undei'arm seam of the sid(^ waist toKithcr. (Sec I'rcpariiiL;' llif Waisl T^iiiiii';- for front. Should nnich alteration be needed at this Bastinn:). 'J'his will only occur throu-ili careless- ]ioint, by all nutans nmke a new draft for the front ness, therefore should never occui- at all. But and cut a new lining front. when it does, taking a small dart at the arnihole is FULLNESS BETWEEN TOP OF DART AND all that can be done. If the individual being fitted SHOULDER. Should the fronts of a garment show has very sloping .slioulders. or is round sluuddered iuilinalion to be loose between the shoulder and the or stooped, do not atteiiq)! to fit tiie garment too top of the dart, the measurement for the dart has closely around the armhole, l)ut rather leave it with been taicen too long. Remedy the difficult.y by open- ease, and build it out with jjaddiug. (See Ilow to ing the shoulder seam and drawing up the front to Make and Apply Padding.) This will greatly im- fit. This alteration must never be made without prove the appearance of the shoulders, making them fir.st opening tlu' shoulder seam the full length. This look less sloping, and the person with the round alteration will usually necessitate a change in the l)ack is made to look more erect. The same prin- armhole and neck curves. When much alteration is ciple holds good in fitting the front of the garment. needed it is by far i)i-eferable to make a new draft If the individual is liollow in front of the arm. in- and cut a new front. stead of fitting the armhole closc^ly. leave it a I>it easy, and build it Ujv with padding. SHORT OR DRAWING FROM TOP OF DART TO SHOULDER. When the garment draws at this 1 WRINKLES AROUND THE NECK CURVE. 1, pai't, the iiicasui-ement for the dart has been taken they are cansessary to make a new draft for the front and cut collar is be on. Then slash ai(Hmd the to sewed a new front. neck curve at intervals of on(>-half inch, using care not to slash through the chalk mark for collar. A After the waist has been fitted satisfactorily, take wrinkle extending from neck curve at shoulder bits of curled hair and .slip under the lining in the seam may be caused by the front of the shoulder hollow places and wheri>ver it is desirable to build the will the seam not being sufTiciently stretched at this i)oint up figure. This show to both customer when basting to the back shoulder seam. AVhen this and the titter what result the padding will produce. \ow, mark with tailors' chalk, the exact size and occurs, it will be necessary to ojjcn the seam as far shape pads to This is to as necessary and stretch a littl<> more wh(>n I'cbast- the are be made. marking b(> also ing. The netdv curve must be well fitted before at- used when cutting the pads. It will be use- fid in locating the ])roj)er jdace and apjilying the tempting to ad.iust or fit the collar. If wrinkles then form around the neck curve after the collar has been ])ads in the proper position after they have heen applii'd. they are caused by the collar being loo tight made. (See flow to ^Take and Apply Padding.) is large entiugh at foi' the dress neck. Tf the collar TO FIT A SLEEVE. After the waist has been the top. then remove it from the waist and with the pi-ojiei'ly fitted, before taking it of¥, slip the .sleeve finger stretch the lower edge of thumb and first on the arm, right side out. Sleeves require most collar until it corresimnds with neck cui'vi>. (See careful fitting. Sleeves must fit as smoothly on the Collar.) Tf the collar is loo small at the Fitting arm as the waist does on the figui-e. top. cut a new one. HANGING THE SLEEVE. Pin the front seam SIDE. 11 liie waist WAIST DRAWING TO ONE of the sleeve to the aiiiiliole at the diagonal marking to side it is bc<'ausc the centre back or draws one which was placed there purjiosely for this guide. been .joined evenly. Ri]! sideform seams have not Pin from the front seam the underarm of the sleeve is at fault and make sure that the the seam which to the waist smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the basting is dii-ectly in waist lines meet and thai the front seam to the front notch, holding the sleeve the marking. a little easy. Draw up the gathers and arrange across the of the the BINDING ACROSS BUST. Siiould liie front of a balance armhole so that sleeve will fall perfectly smooth. If when fitting the waisl bind aci-iiss lli<> bust. i1 is because the bust slee\-e lining, the of the litfed is laid measure was taken too tigiil. Tlie only iTincdy for hand arm being li\STUUCT10i\ BOOK FOll SEWING AND FITTINC COURSE

(111 the opposite slioulder and the elbow elevated to open the back seam of sleeve and rebaste according the level of the shoulder, a splendid position of the to instructions for the basting of sleeve lining. Then, Jinn is obtained for the fitting, and comfort to the j'ou will find, if the sleeve was cut from an S. T. wearer is assured. AVith the arm in this position it Taylor pattern, there will be no twisting at the hand. will be noticed that great length is rere not there rounding is cut very short. Do not attempt a jilain before setting the collar), it is because the collar is sleeve unless the garment is cut amply wide on the too tight. shoulders. It may be well to mention, that every dress slntuld SLEEVE TWISTED AT HAND. IT the inside have an individual canvas collar pattern fitted 1o it. seam at the hand twists fci the top, it is caused by ]\[any ti'y to use the .same shaped )ia1- improperly cut jiattern or carelessness in cutting tern on ditTerent dresses, and that is the beginning and basting. This is a common occurrence and the of many of their troubles with collars. After you most freciuent cause is the careless pinning togethei- have fitted a few collar patterns, according to the of the sleeve before basting. (See Basting the Slee\c directions here given, you will take pleasure in fit- Lining Together.) The only remedy for a twisted ting collars instead of regarding it with dread, and sleeve is to open the back seam of the sleeve the you will find the making and fitting of the pattern full length, and let the underarm piece of the sleeve will not re(piire more than two minutes. The can- extend up into the armhole until the propi r aligu- vas you have fitted is the pattern only, and to be ment is achieved. The easiest and best way U> make used as such to cut the collar proper fiMiii, and is this alteration is to remove the sleeve from the waist. not to be used in the collar in anv manner. S. T. TAVLOli SCHOOL AM) I'ATTI:KN PARLOUS 13

FITTING THE SKIRT. Tlu' lining of the skirt SKIRT FALLING TOWARD FRONT. When a

must l)t' in rcailiai-ss Toi- the fii-st fitting. (Sec Bast- skirt falls to the front, giving an ugly flare at the ing Siviit.) Slip the lining di- foundation skirt on. siiles and a most unbecoming "skimpiness" or lack

I'iu the centre front of the skirt to the centre front of fullness at the bottom of the back ; it makes the of the waist at their respective waistlines, keeping wearer look as if she were standing very badly, and the marking for c<'ntre front of skirt (which extends the longer it is worn the worse it Avill look. It is

from waist line to foot of skirt I, in perfect perpen- caused by not cutting the side from the proper dicidar alignment. Then pin the c,n;re hack of ih. of the material. If the front edge of the side skirt to the centre back of the waist, raising or low- gore is cut on the straight of the goods, the side gore ering the waist line of the skirt as may he necessary must naturally be bias at the back, with the result to cause the skirt to fall in perfect alignment. .\ow that the skirt will fall to the front. If the straight take the palm of the hand and place it over the full- of the goods is put through the centre of the side est part of the liii)s at the liij) line. i)ass it scraigli. ii.) gore, an improvement is at once noticeable. But, if over the curve of the hips to the waist line, and pin the side gore is cut with its bai-k edge on the straight the skiit to the waist line at this point. You now of the goods letting the front edge be the bias edge, have the correct division of the skirt at the lii]) line the effect is almost nuigieal. The only remedj' for and the material which lies l)etween the centre front this fault will be to oi)en the seam which .joins the

and the hip line is to he plact'd in the fir.-;! dnrt. side and back together the full length of it, and raise That between the hip line and centi-e back, in the the back edge of the side piece at the waist line until back dart. Pin the darts in position and shaju' ac- the skirt naturally falls in the gr;iceful iiiannei'

cor man- tape, which may be sewn in with the seam, and the ner, with the exception of taking in darts from the shaiiing tluTeliy is retained indefinitely. waist to hip line, this part is fitted at the seams of TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE AT HIP LINE. A the gores. Pin the .skirt securely at the waist line skirt which is loo tight or too loose at the lii|) line and mark the desired length aiound bottom of skirt. must necessarily be taken in or let out accordingly WRINKLES ACROSS SKIRT AT FRONT OR AT to its requirements. However, should the skirt re- (piire too much alteration at this line, it will be by BACK NEAR WAIST LINE ,ire .•:iusr;l either l,y tlle far eas'iT and better in take apart and cut darts not having been taken up sufficiently or be- over. cause the skirt was held too taut when being ad- MARKING WAIST LINE OF SKIRT. Carefully justed to the band. mark with tailors' chalk, the true waist line of the skirt, which will be exactl.v over the waist line of CAPS OR FULLNESS AT ENDS OF DARTS. the wai.st. Then after the skirt has been marked This is caused liy too deep ;i dart iiaxiug liem talieii around the bottom for the correct length, the first out for the figuri'. and uftcii times by too much sluji- fitting is comjileted. ]iemo\-e the garment, using ing at the top of the l);ick.

After the First Fitting

Thead mark the chalk markings at the ne<-l< eurxf all alterations as indicated. Open the underarm and nnd armhole, also the markings for the ]iad(ling. as shoulder seams and turn to th(> inside using great ivell as all mai'kings in both skirt and waist which eai'e to baste them again just as they were or if al- mav become lost before needed for use. Xext make liM-atiiius have been made at these seams be careful 14 IXSTIUCTION HOOK 1-OK SKWIXC AM) I'lTTlNC COl 1{SI':

to arrange tlu'in ac-cordiiigly. (IT you aiilioipato as you have in Ihe lining, wliieh will nhviate any using the same jjattern at some I'uture time, it will fitting when making aiinlliei' liaiiiienl.) The linings be well to make the same eorreelioiis mi the pattern are now readx- \i\ mai-hinc stitch.

How to Stitch Linings

First see that the stitch of the maehine is perfeet, Shoulder seams are stitched from the neck curve and that tlie tentiou in the maehine is not too tight; to armhole, keei)ing front portion next to presser- with a medium stiteh (not too short), run the ma- foot. Keep shoulder seam taut while stitching. ehine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast). Stitch vinderann seam fioiii the lop down. Stitch just out- Use silk in stitching in evei'y case. For garments liaving theii' opening in the back, stitching the waist, to allow side the basting when the centre front seam is stitched fi-oiii the top down. space for boning. Be careful to ke(4) the stitehings true, as any deviation will he ])erceptil)le at the see STITCHING SLEEVE SEAMS. Sleeves nuist be ond fitting, and will necessitate alterations. It is stitched \\\[\\ the lower or umler jiart kept on top necessary to have all bastings true and even, that luider the iiressei--foot . I'Mrsl stitch the inside seam they may be used as a guide for perfect stitching. and then the back seam, .\lwa.vs sew a sleeve to the Never stitch on the basting line, nor across it. but garment with tin; sh^eve on top under the pressei-- just inside or outside of it as occasion may re(|uire. foot, and stitch carefully, keeping a perfect seam.

For stout figures a. narrow tape stilched around the STITCHING WAIST SEAMS. St it eh cMit : e back armhole with the sleeve, will pre\eiit an.\- inclination from neck down. of the waist splitting across the front. Stitch the seam nf the l)ack and side fdnii IVmii the top down. STITCHING SKIRT SEAMS. To stitdi skirt Stitch the curved seams (if the side liaek pditinu seams coiiuoeuce at the lioltoiii and stitch np. kei'|)- to the underaiin portion, keeping the side liaik next ing the bias side down next to the fei'd. Keep a Ihe presser-foot. Stitching the one limn the lup straight seam, as any de\ialion will cause the skirt down, the otln-r from the liollinii up. to hang unevenly. Lay a long rule from the bottom Stitch the front and side front seam Iroin the bot- of the curve over the hips to the bottom of the skirt, tom up. along the seam to be stitched, i-un a fine chalk mark

Darts are stitched from the lioltoni up. terminat- along the rule on the seam. This will ,i;i\-e an ac- ing them sharp at the toj). Threads nuisl he allowed curate and straight line as a guide for stitching. at the top to permit fastening by knotting both ends Make and finish the iininu' plaket. (See How to or sewing them down. Make Plakets.)

To Draw Out Bastings

Kemove all bastings fi-om seams before pi-essing, then iinllcd out. Do not jittempt to w it IuIimw tlh being careful not to break any threails of the sewing. \\hob' threail at once, as there is danger i\\' ruinint Tlie basting threads must be cut at in1cr\als and the niatci-ial and often the shape lA' the garirie;it.

Trimming Seam Edges

After the bastings have been removed li-oin the same width as other seams to within one inch IVom seams, then all seam edges, with the exception ol' the the \('ry point of the dart where an incision is made underarm and shoidder seams, are to be trimmed off deep enough to be able to open out the seam. R(uind evenly, leaving them three-eighths of an inch wide off the slashes of seams and the seams are ready for from the seam. The si'am (d' d;irts are cut olV to the pressing. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 15

Pressing

Facilities for pressing have been given nuder cloth over the glossy part and set a hot iron down "Workroom Necessities." Pressing is one of the onto it, taking it oflf inunediately, or, in other words, most essential parts of dressmaking. Various ma- thumping it. Give it a slight brushing to restore the terials re(|uire a diiferent process of pressing. While, naj) again. This applies to heavy goods. as a rnle the seams of a gai'ment should be pressed ARMHOLE SEAMS are to be opened and pressed, open with an iron, some fabrics, such as fine silks, a lit til' at a timr, the same as all other seams. erej)es, etc., do not permit of this. These are simi)ly HEMS as a rule are pressed fiat. Lay the right creased open with tlie back of the thumb nail. side of the goods on a fiat pressing board covered Care -must be used in utilizing the correct tools smoothly (keeping the wrong side up), then place when pressing the various parts. Always press several tliicknesses of sponge cloth over the hem straight seams over the straight pressing roll, and and press with a heavy iron until smooth. In thin- curved seams over a curved seam board, placing the ner fabrics, such as silks, cashmeres, etc., the hem seams over the seam board jjerfeetly smooth. Press can be pressed b.v just laying a cloth or piece of slowly and carefull.y, bearing well on the iron, lift- ])aper between the hem and iron. For wash goods ing the iron at short intervals to prevent stretching. the hem is pressed without the aid of the cloth and and guiding the jtoint of the iron directly over the may be pi-essed on either right or ^n'ong side. seam. If the iron is allowed to twist to one side or the other, a crooked seam will be the result, liy VELVETS. SILKS, CREPES, ETC.. turn the iron pressing evenly and as much as possible with the witli bottom sicb' uji. Take hold of the end of the point of the iron on curved seams, will obviate such seam with the one hand and with the other guide wrinkles a.s occa.sionall.y form underneath the out- and keep the seam open from underneath while side fabric, and when once in, it will be found very drawing the seam back and forth across the edge difficult, if not entirely impossible to remove them. or acro.ss the flat surface of the iron. In cither in- All bastings must be removed and seam edges stance be very careful not to stretch the scams out trimmed to proper width before pressing. "Where of shape. selvedge seams are to be pressed, they must first be STEAMING VELVET SEAMS OPEN, Turn the slashed or clipped throughoiit, otherwise the.y will hot iron with the bottom side up. Cover its flat draw on the outside, no matter how much pressing surface with a v>it clotli. Now pass the seam of the is done. Cloth seams are to be dampened and pressctl velvet over thi.s (keeping the right side up) in the with a heav.v iron, whereas lighter wei.ght matei-ials same manner as directed above, having a second reouire irons not quite so heavy, and the matciial is oiicrator constantly and carefully brushing the seam not dampened. Do not have the iron too hot for on top, with a brush as it slowly passes over the silks or woolens. Colored should always be steaming cloth on the iron. Be very careful not to tested b.v first using a small piece of the same to stretch the seam out of shape. determine whether they will admit of pressing, as some faln-ics change in color as soon as the hot iron RAISING CRUSHED AND RENEWING OLD touches them, though in many cases the color re- VELVETS. Turn a broad surfaced hot iron with turns. Should a seam become glossy on the right , bottom side up. Cover the surface with a wet cloth side after being pressed, sponge it off by the follow- \ and place the velvet to be renewed on the steaming ing process: Lay the garment on the pressing board cloth with the pile up. Brush the pile briskly as the with its right side uppei-most, place a wet sponging' steam is passing up thi-ough it. How to Finish Seams

SEAM BINDING. Finishing seams with silk the corners of the slashes, pa.y particular attention scam binding makes the very i)rettiest finish to lie that the binding is here pulled enough to permit of had. To do this neatl.y, crease the ribbon exactly tile scam lying perfectly flat and even, for drawing through the centre. Slip the edge of the seam be- the rilibon too tight at this point will not only cause tween the edges of the ril)bon, and run the ribbon on thi> outside to pucker, but will ruin the fit of the with a fine running stitch, catching both edges of the dress. The binding of the darts may be run up on riblion at one sewing and holding the ribbon a trifle one side of the seam, then folded and sewed across full or easy. AVhcn ad.justing tlie binding around the top to cover the raw edge, to be then adjusted 16 IXSTRLTTION HOOK VOR Si:WlX(; AND FITTINC COIRSI':

to the opposite side. Use tine silk tlireatl the same the seam about half its depth and turn down the un- shade in eolor as tiie seam binding, always working cut edge over the <-ut edge; then fold the two over from the top or upper side of the seaTu. Tiie seam flat on to the mateiial and stitcli or fell to position. binding may l)e the same color as the mati'rial on All seams are tui-ned towaid the front. The lai)ped which it is to be applied, or may be of some pleasing seam nuiy be used when finishing the long seams of contrasting color. Foi' instance, scarlet, old gold, underiiarnu'ufs or where :i Hat seam effect is ilesii'- or green makes a beautil'iil touch of color when used al.le. as a finish on the inside of an all black dress. Light FRENCH FELL SEAM. Join the sections to the blue or pink are pretty for gray, scarlet foi- navy, right side, making an eighth of an inch wide seam geeu for brown, etc. Always bear in mind the bon- outside of file regular se;ini. Cut off the edges closely ing must match the seam finish in color. Seam to the seaming and turn the seams so that the right l)inding is to be used on all seams and raw edges, sides of the material will couu> together, and make which ravel with the exception of the armiiole. This another seam an eighth of an inch from the first is to be overcast. seam, or, in other words, sew on the traced or seam- ing lines. This finish is ['dv uudei'gariuenfs only. OVER-CASTING. For cloths and materials which do not fray ii\ i-r-casting may be emi)l()yed as a finish. SEAM FINISH FOR LACES, , Uver-cast the edge with twist, or sewing ETC. Seams of embroiileries, laces aixi sheer ma- silk, the seam.stress woi-king from the right to left terials are sewed together on the wrong side, cut with very close stitches, using care not to tlraw the down to one-eighth inch seam, then bound with thread so tight as to {-ause a jmckering or drawing sheer riblxin binding. ;dways holding the ril>bon a of the seam, as that would cause the gaiiucut to be- little easy so that the seam will not draw when come ill-fitting, ;is well as to s]i(iii the siiKidth effect finished. In some in.stances. one side of the binding of the finish. can be stitched in with the seam, and then felled o\'er on tiie othei- side. IMITATION STRAP FINISH, l.iueii and un lined silk coats may be ijeautifully finished by turn- CROSS STITCH FINISH, On long seams of ing the seams to the outside, where each raw edge is heavy woolen materials wlii<-h will not fr;iy, the turned over under itself, forming a narrow strap- cross stitch applied directly along the edge of the like trimming. When both edges of a seam have been seam makes a beautiful finish. thus ttirned and stitched, the seam appears to have PINKING is a finish which may be applied in a been strap])ed and stitched three times. The inside general way as a seam finish and is quite satisfactory, of the coat is iiei-fectly free from bound seams or however, not nearly so elegant as ribbon binding, but other finishing, and presents ffie ai)i)earance of a it answeis nicely when time will not permit of the beautifully lined eoat. The bottom of the libbon binding. While if is not so beautiful, yet it coat may be turned up and finished in the has one advantage, that is. in giving ample si)ring to same manner. Where the coat is so treated, the the seams. There will be no rislc that the seams will skirt should be built in the same manner. When fin- be drawn along the edges, a defect which is quite ishing seams in this manner, tile work ]>resents a liable to happen when a ribbon finish is carelessly clean. ne,i( appearauee, which is to be nnicii ad- mired. applied. Pinking also nuikes a splendid finish for the edges of facings, etc. when it is desirable to ap- LAPPED SEAMS, -loin \hv sections, nuiking an ply them fiat and smooth, and when* a tiirned-in oi-dinaiy seam. Cut oil' the edge ol' the one side of (>dge W(nild be bulky, or ol liei'wise undei'sirable. How to Bone Waists

One of the most im|)orlaiit details in dressmaking as that makes the bone britth'. I5y adding tallow (U" is the boning of a waist. Heal whalebone is always paraffiue the .service of the bom- will be nnu'li longvr. preferable for boning. When whaletxuie can not l)e Allow bone to remain in water about 1') miiuit<'s.

had. then W;ii-ren Fcatherbone rald found to be pliable and sol't .•nid ence. easily cut and sewed through, wilhoiil injury to the bone. Remove the boiU' from the water, wipe dry, BONING WITH WHALEBONE. I'lac ihc bone and measure off and cut into correct lengths for the in warm water, to wliieh has been added a wee lump various seams to be boned. The exact length to cut of tallow or paralline. Do not use the water loo hot. the bones will be found undcT "To .\ppl\- I'.oue ('as- S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 17

ings." Rouud the ends and scrape them quite thin, one and one-half inch extension end of the casing and again phu-e them in the warm water until -want- over the three-fourths inch free end of tlie bone and ed for use. sewing right through them. The object of leaving Seams must be pressed and liiiished liefi)re the hone this end loose is to prevent the bulging forward casings are applied. often seen on waists where bones terminate. Bone casings must mateh the color of the seam SPRINGING BONES IN CASINGS. "Spring finish as near as possible. ing" is simply stretching the goods so there is more TO APPLY BONE CASINGS. Apply bone cas- bone length than seam length. This curves the ings, a little full, with small running stitches both waist toward the figure; therefore the amount of sides of the seam, keeping the centre of the casing spring required depends upon the amount of curve directly over centre of. the seam. Should the centre to the figure. Then again, the curved seams over of easing not be kept over the centre of seam, it will the hips recpiire more spring and a greater distance cause the seam to twist after the bone has been ap- of spi-ing than do the straight seams of tlie front plied. An extention of one and one-half inches is and back. Let the greater amount of the spring of allowed at each upper end of casing to permit of tiie seam be at the waist line within the space of one lapping over as a finish. The lower cud is fastened and one-half inches above and one and one-half across the seam. inches below it. Do not spring between the two last fastenings at either end, simply hold taut. Start all casings at one-half inch from the bottom Low- cut evening bodices, quite frequently have of the skirt part of the wai.st leaving them run to bones inserted from top to bottom in back. In those one inch from the very point of the dart; two and closing with lacing this is absolutely necessary. Nar- one-half inches from the armhole in underarm seam. row bones are best for closing edges which are to On centre back seam, at half way between neck lace together. When a whalebone has been properly curve and waist line. Three inches on curved side lu-cpared in warm water it is easily cut through and back seam above waist line, unless a curved bone is can lie slit to any desii-al)le width. used, then extend as high as bone in centre' back seam. Three inches also applies to side back seams. BONING TUB DRESSES. In wash dresses cas- If the distance measures more than three inches ings are applied the same as in other garments, the from the last dart to the underarm seam, then apply only difference being that they are finished at the a bone in the centre of this space, letting it slant top separately from the bone to permit of the latter back a little above the waist line and make it from being easily removed when desiring to have the gar- four to five inches above the waist line. Make a ment laundered. mark on the front seam opposite one inch below the BONING GIRDLES AND BELTS. All belts and top of the dart and allow the casing to extend to girdles are to be boned as carefully and thoroughly this mai-k. On the foregoing seams, all casings are as waists. The same rules which control tlie boning to be started at one-half inch from the bottom of of waists are to be complied with and carefully fol- the skii-t of the .waist. In long waisted garments lowed when constructing belts and girdles, even tlu^ bones should extend from three to six inches though they do not measui-e more than an inch in according the style of gar- below the waist line to width. ment. Onlj' whale lione can be used for this pur- pose. FEATHER BONING. Cut feather bone one and one-fourth inches Remove the bones from the water, one at a time longer for each seam than directed as needed (as they will remain soft enough to sew for whalebone. (See Boning with Whalebone.) Rip through for only a short time after removing from the centre row of stitching out of the feather bone water), carefully wipe dry removing: ail tallow or one-half inch at the bottom end, and three-fourths paraffine which may adhere to them. Slip the bones inch at the top end. Slip the casing back at each from the top down in their respective casings and end as far as ripped and cut the bone off. rounding fasten at the bottom by sewing through the bone the corners ; then tui-n the easing loosely over end and casing, and again at one inch below waist line. of bone and to place on wrong side of bone. Spring (force), them and fasten at waist line by Spring the bone on to the seam the same as directed sewing through the bone and casing. Sjtring again under w^haleboniug and pin to position that the and fasten at one and one-half inches above the greater amount of the spring will be at the waist wai-st line and at equal distances aliove this at in- line. The bone is then to be cross stitched to the tervals of about one and one-half inches making the seam, each end being finished with a large X. But- last fastening at three-fourths of an inch below the tonhole twist or floss is to be used for this purpose. top of the bone, this being finished by turning the To feather stitch the surface of the casing and then 18 l.NSTliLCTlON BOOK FOli SI]WlN(i AM) F1TTIN(; COUKSE

111' to apply to seam with loii

IMace that portion of llie lining wiiirii has been eillier with a plain fastening stiteli, or with a small marked for paiitling. onto canvas keeping the star stitch. In either instance, the thread used iiuist thread of the lining on the same thread of canvas. be silk- and the same color as the lining. Trace aronnd the marking; this, will leave traced on Skirt pads are made by ti'aeing the canvas the exact size and shape the pad is lo SKIRT PADS. the shape as marked on the skirt lining, when lilting, be. Cnt the canvas out, and witli running stitch a j)iece of the lining material. skirt i>ad apply seam l)iniling flat around the edge, holding onto A nuist an upper section. The un- the binding a little full. have an under and der section is to fit smoothly and is to be cut froiu If only a slight building uj) is reipiired. the can- the piece traced from the skirt lining; the upper vas will in itself be sufficient. Some figures are section is to be cut one-half inch wider at the waist finite hollow .just in front of the arms eye, back of line than the under section. Tlie two sections are the shoulder, through the bust, chest, etc. In such to ])e seamed together on the wrong side, around the cases, arrange a small quantity of best curled hair edges, leaving it open at the waist line. Ari-ange on the side of the eiuivas which is to face the lining curled hair on the under section, as re(|uired, keep- when ai)i)lied: tack the hair to the canvas with a ing it thin at the edges, and tack hair to the under long loose stitch across the hair, catching a short section only, with long loose stitch o\-ei- the litir, stitch into tile canvas. Di-aw tlie hair out so it catching a short stitch into the material. Turn tin' will be thill at the edges and the pad is ready to pad rightside out and liiiish li.\' making an inverted adjust on the lining. ])leat, as deej) as the exti'ii fullness will adnut, at The curled hair used for making ]iads is the same the centre of the Widst line of tlie upper section. as used by ftirniture nitholstercrs. Tu)'n in the edges at the waist line, baste, and stitch Pads are to be sewed onto the lining so that they close to the edge. The skirt pad is to be attached rest Ix'tween the lining and the outside i)art of the to the waist band of the skirt. garment. Pin the pads to position, arranging them exactly where the markings indicate. Then sew Very thin arms may be iinpro\c(l by a layer of them securely to the lining at every inch at the wadding between thi' elbow and slioulder, when

edge of the seam l)in

Finishing Lining Skirt

:\lake and finish the placket. (See How to ]\lake othiM' (>ml to cross the shield of the placket ami an bil- Pla(d

above the tnriung, commencing at centre front and band at the centre front, tlieu ,it the eciiti'e back basting to centre back on each side, with stitches and draw u\) the gathering threads so as to case the

not nn)re than one-half inch in length. With even, skirt at the waist line to the band. It is not to be

fine stitches I'nn a gathering tln-ead on tin' waist line understood that the skir't is to be gathcTed, it is oidy from the centre front to tiie centre baidc of skirt, to be eased and should there be enough fullness to and another gathering at one-eighth inch above. form gathers, the dai-fs are to be taken in more. By Now arrange the lining skirt at the waist line on a easing the skii't to tln' band will obviate any rolling l)an

Making and Adjusting the Outer Portion of the Garment to the Lining

Now that .your lining's iu\' all finislicil aud perfect line of the lining at the centre back, centre front and in every respect, the making of the outside aod fit- underarm seams, then gather between these points ting it over tliem will be very simple and easy. If so that the line of gathering will coincide with the any deeided alterations have been made in the lin- waist line of the lining; run another gathering at ings, the same changes must be made on the outer one-eighth inch above, draAv up the gathering parts. For instance : If you made any change in threads evenly together by drawing both at one time, the waist line of the skirt when fitting the 'ining, adjn.st the fullness to proper position and baste out- make the same change on the pattern for the outside side to lining at waist line. poi tiou of skirt before cutting it. Whatever change Make the outer sleeve and drape and fit to the has been made at the bottom of skirt lining when lining sleeve. Then with short even stitches, baste fitting, make same change on pattern for outer sec- into the armhole at the markings made at the first tion befoie cutting. The same method is to be em- fitting. Do not stitch the sleeve in tight until after ployed with waists and sleeves. This will afford a the second fitting. For making and hanging a fancy great saving in material and will obviate the possi- sleeve without a lining, follow same instructions as bility of any mistake in regard to cutting. for lining sleeve. Turn the sleeve up to the inside at tile bottom. At the marking on the lining for the The remaining steps for putting together the other length of sleeve, oft' allowing one-half inch edge portions of waists, sleeves and skirts involve little above the turning and baste at three-sixteenths of an that is different and nothing that is more difficult inch above the turning. than the instructions given in putting the linings to- I\Iake the collar (See How to Make Collars.), and gi'ther. All seams in outin- ])oi'tions are to be held, carefully baste to position as indicated by the mark- stretched, basted, and stitched in exactly the same ings on tlie lining. Do not sew the collar on tight manner, as were their corresponding seams of the until after the second fitting. lining. Seams are to be pressed and finished in a IMake the outer skirt, adjust it over the lining like manner as were the linings. The making of skirt by attaching them together with short basting tucks, plaits, folds, pipings, hems, shirrings, etc., stitch at the waist line only. Now baste at the waist will be found under their respective headings. line on the outside a band of Prussian binding, the ilake the outer portion of the waist complete (with same as on the under side, turn in ends of band and the exception of sewing in sleeve and attaching col- sew on hooks and eyes temporarily. Do not stitch lar), and slip it over the lining, basting it correctly the band on tight until after the second fitting, so to position round the neck and armhole and at the that if any small change may be needed, it can be underarm seams. Mai'k where it is desired to have readily done. The garment is now ready for the the waist line of tlie outer portion meet the waist second fitting.

Second Fitting

If, at the second fitting any defects are to be ob- garment, to make sure it is the correct length all the served, for their causes and remedies, refer to "IIow way round. Also the bottom of the sleeves to make to Do Fitting." Do not fail to inspect the bottom sure each sleeve is tui-ned up at the exact length it of the skirt the verv last thing before removing the is desired to have them when finished.

After the Second Fitting

If any changes are necessary, make them. Then ways sew in a sleeve with the sleeve on top, or if blind the collar to the waist. Next, sew the sleeves stitched in keep the sleeve next the presser-foot, in tight, preferably by close back stiteh. However, stiteh carefully, keeping a perfect seam. Trim the they may be stitched to the waist by machine. Al- outside material off at tlie waist line. That is, if the 20 IXSTIUCTIOX liOOK I'OK SIIWI.NG AM) I'lTTl.Ni; COIKSI':

waist line is lo 1ii> the bottom of tlic waist. The elntli wliirh will iict MS a sdl'l. clinging weight to waist liniufj shoiiltl extend at least five inelies below h'lid the slurt down aiui in aligniiLenl ; silk or satin the waist line underneath the skirt. Baste and sew is to be used as a facing on heavy skirts. Carefully a stay tape one-fourth iiieh wide around the waist jire.ss the bottom of the skii-t (See Pressing), and at the waist line as a substantial finish, lettinj; it then finish with three-fourths inch wide silk tailors' extend just low enough to eover tlie raw edfje of the braid ; first baste the braid smoothly along the lower outside. Trim the turned edge at the bottom of the edge, allowing it to project one-sixteenth inch below sleeve to within three-eights ineh from tlu' liiriiiiig the bottom of the skirt. Conunence basting the braid and finish with a bias faeing; the faeing nuist meas- at the centre front and baste to centre back at each

ure fully as nnieh in leugth as the sleeve is wide. side ; then baste the ujiper edge of the braid down The width of the faeing will depend upon the style smoothly, again commencing at centre front. Fell of the sleeve. the braid along the upper edge to the facing only, using care not to catch the stitches thi'ough into the eyes Remove the hooks and whicli were only tem- outside matei-ial. The lining or foundation skirt is porarily sewn on the band of the skirt, and stitch to be finished at the bottom in the same manner. the baud to the skirt by stiteliing along both tlu; The joinings of bindings, as well as those of facings, upper and lower edges and by eommeneing in the must be neatly finished, lender no circumstances eentrc front and stiteliing to centre back at both should such ends be lapped. Seam and press them sides. Trim the turned edge of the bottom of the well so they will not be visible. Always seek to skirt to within one-fourth inch of turning. the Cut join on the slant where material is bias. either a shaped facing, or a faeing on the true l)ias, making it from two to three and one-half inches wide, BELT INSIDE OF WAIST. Inside the waist al- as occasion may require. Turn in and liaste one- ways sew a belt. It should be three inches longer fonrth ineh at the lower edge of the faeing, i)inking than the regular waist measure. Turn under each the upper edge as a finish. Then ])aste the facing end of the belt one and one-half inches and sew a smoothly against the inside of the bottom of the hook on the right end and an eye on the left. Turn skirt, allowing tin- skirt to project one-sixteenth indi under the raw ends of the belt and hem them down below the facing; shape the upper edge of the faeing over the ends of the hook and eye. Mark the centre by stretching it so it will lay Hat and smootli on tlie of the belt and sew^ it to the centre back seam of the

skirt. If the facing used is a shaped fac'.ng it will liniug with a large X stitch, keeping the lower edge not require any shaping oi' stretcliing. The facing of the belt one-fourth inch aboA'e the waist line. If of the .skirt may be stitched or blinded at botii edges, the waist opens in the front, then sew the belt to the style of the skirt to determine this. The facing the centre front seam of the waist, keeping the lower for a silk or light weight skirt should be of fine edge of the belt one-half inch above the waist line.

To Make

The making and finisiiing of the placket will gi-eat- edge of turning, tiie other edgi' of binding to extend l.v depend upon the style opening which the placket over and cover the raw edge of the turning; stitch is to occu])y. The first consideration will lie to ar- along both edges, and press. Start at the waist line range for the ])laidvet oi)ening where it will be the and mark at everv one and one-half inidies on the least visible: this will depend u|)on the style of the under side of the right opening, and sew suction but- garment. The right .side of the placket most always tons at the marks, k(>e]iing them one-eighth ineh lajis to tile left. If yon ha\-e followed iiistruetioiis back from the edge, using care not to catch the in putting the skirt together, iiotii sides of the stitches through to the outside material. For the jtlacket opening have a stay tape along the seam to left side cut an extension or shield from the straight protect thein fi-oin stretcliing, -which is one of tlic of the same material as the outer skirt is made of, secrets (if a true si-tting placket. making it one and one-half inches longer tiian the pla<-ket ojiening and two and three-fourths inches MAKING A PLAIN PLACKET AT SEAM OPEN- wide. Baste the shield to the left side of the open- ING. Tnrn and baste the riuJit siile i.f plackd <,\vu- ing, l)y ])lacing the right side of the goods of the ing nndci- at the marking Ini- tiie seam and press. shield to the right side of the goods of the skirt and Trim the edge

seam towai-d the shield aiul jiress firmly. Baste rib- and a three-inch-wide one under the other. Turn the bon binding flat across the surface of the seam, by latter, after hemming it along the placket edge, back keeping one edge along the stitching and the other an inch from the seam ; hem it by the fold, and the edge to extend over and cover the raw edge of the turned-baek part will form a or shield to underlie seam. Stitch both edges of the ribbon binding, and the opening. The fly may need lining with silk, but press. Starting at tlie waist line mark on the out- if sufficiently firm the edge merely requires binding. side of the shield, between tlie stitchings. at every The placket should be pressed when stitched and one and one-half inches and sew suction at again when finished. suction buttons the marks, keeping the edges of the PLACKET UNDER INVERTED PLAIT, Where one-eighth inch back from the edge of the seam. skirts have inverted plaits at the iiack. the placket is Fasten at the waist line with Xo. 2 hooks and eyes. cut at the iinderfold of the right plait, this being Also sew a hook on the end of the band of the shield bound with ribbon seam binding. The waist liand and an eye to correspond on the waist band of the finishes at the end of this top plait, to then close skirt to hold the end of the {)lacket in position at with a hook and eye over to the centre back, another the waist line. If this work is perfectly done the eye having been sewn to the end of the left under placket opening will always set smooth and perfect belt to fasten with hooks sewed correspondingly to in every respect. Sew a No. 2 hook, perpendicular, the inside right top belt. When the placket is made on the underside of the waist band of the skirt at the in this manner, there will be no fear of the placket centre back, and a corresponding eye, loop down- opening being visible at any time. ward, on the outside of the waist band of tlu^ waist at the centre back. "When putting the garment on, PLACKET UNDER BOX PLAIT. Where a skirt hook the skirt to the waist at this point and the skirt lias a box jihiit at the Ijaek. the placket is made at the will always be neat and in proper position at the centre of the liack at the fold of the plait, the plait waist line in the back. When the individual is ex- concealing the opening by being fastened to the left ceedingly broad, then three hooks and eyes are to side and hooking over to the right, it being under- be applied in the same manner as the foregoing, sew- stood that the skirt was previously hooked at the ing one at the centre back and one at each side at centre back. one and one-half inches from the centre back. PLACKETS UNDER PLAITED DRAPERIES, PLACKET IN PLAIN HABIT BACK TO FAST- ETC. Skirts having plaited draperies have the EN WITH HOOKS AND COVERED RINGS. Wh.iv lihicket opening of the foundation skirt at the middle a skirt has a plain haliit hack and tiicrc is no trim- of the back and that of the drapery at one of the un- ming over any of the scams to cover a placket, it der folds of the plaits. Both openings should be may be at any preferred seam, but the back one is faced or hemmed, each separately, and then pressed. the best. If done properly there is no occasion for Extra allowance nnist be made in the belt to permit addpd it to l)e visible, and the thickness, which is un- of the plait being in proper position when closed. avoidable, is more easily disposed of at that seam, ]\lake as follows: First, when stitching the seam PLACKET IN GATHERED SKIRTS. If the gath- stop short of the placket opening, but continue the ers ai-e full enough the placket opening may be made tacking to the top and press the whole of the seam in the centre back. If the gathers are scant, then the placket is to be at one side a open. Next, remove the placket, threads ; lay a strip made under seam. of fine canvas under each edge and turn them back. PLACKET IN ONE PIECE DRESSES. The most Then stitch them down from the right side and mitre satisfaetiii-y ]ihiee for )ilaeket ii]ieir!ng in the one tlie stitching at the lower corner. Sew hooks (that jiiece dress is at the centre Inu-k. will not unfasten themselves) and rings alternately and closely under each edge, so that when fastened LENGTH OF PLACKET OPENING. This will de- the edges meet perfectly. To make the inside neat, pend upon tiie size of the individual, varying from 9 hem an inch wide strip of material under one edge, to 14 inches in length. Finishing Darts in Skirt

Darts must l)e well tajiercd off. Nothing looks shoidd be carefully laid into a tiny box plait, and as worse than a puft'y ending to a dart : it is a sure sign carefully pressed ; then if necessary, a little shrink- of bad workmanship. The edges should be cut down ing of the material round the point will make it as as far as possible, less wide than those of the seams, smooth as desired. Dart seams, to be correct, should and the part toward the jioiut tliat cannot be cut be almost invisil)le. 22 INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR Si:\VIX(; AND IMTTiXC COUUSF.

How to Make Collars

as well as to the setting of Take the t'iinvas oollai' pattern wliicli was iiiailc at and all styles of collais, the first tittiiijr and lay upon iMousscliiu' dc Soic or a collar. neck curve of the waist at ChitVon cloth, placing it on the true bias. Carefully Baste the collar to the the lir.st fitting, mark the Jlousseline all aroimd the edge of the can- the marking which was made at each vas, also the centre front and centre back of collar commencing at the centre of the collar to baste is be slijjped from l)ottoni to top. Cut out the collar three-eighths side. After the last lifting, the collar to waist inch outside the markings. This .Mousseline section stitched to position, and the neck curve of the of slipstitch- of the collar is to be used as an inteilining and sup- trimmed to within one-fourth inch the port for the honing or stays. Now turn in to the ing. Slash the neck curve to within one-eighth inch wrong side and baste the upper and lo\v(>r edge of of the slip stitching, at ever one-half inch. The neck the collar at the marking. Run along both upper curve is then to be finished by applying ribbon bind- and lower edge of collar with fine, even running ing, holding it easy and flat, sewing only at the stitch, keeping one-eighth inch from the edge. So;dv- lower edge (which is to be jilaeed at the slip stitch- edge to iirependieulau whalebone (See How to Bone Wai.sts ), and when ing), and attaching upper soft and pliable cut lengthwise into strips one-six- bone casings only. teenth inch wide. Slip into the one-eighth inch cas- TUB DRESSES AND STOCKS. With tub dresses ing formed by the running stitch on both upper and or with stocks the bones are to i)e slipped rroni their lower edge of the collar. Cut the wliale bone off at casings before laundering same. the proper length, and fasten securely at each end. Sew one-eighth inch wide ribbon from the to]) to the SHIRT WAIST COLLAR BANDS. These bands bottom at the centre back. IMeasure the sjiace Iroin ai'e interlined with one or two thicknesses of butch- centre back to centre front at both top and iiottom ers' linen canvas, instead of using i)one stays. Foun- edges of collar, and divide it into three e(|ual parts. dation and material are all cut one size, i. e., one- autl sew an eighth inch wide ribbon bone casing at fourth of an inch larger all around than the collar is each third from top to bottom edges of collar. The to be when completed. With the machine stitch centre front is not to be boned. Cut the hones the both inter-linings together several times through the proper height for the collar, from tlie one-sixteenth centre ; baste on the outside section, and then the inch wide whalebone, slip them into their respective inside, with the right side of the frabric facing the casings and fasten them securely at top and bottom, outside of the collar. Stitch all together along the and at twice between. All parts of the foundation top and sides, taking a one-foui'th inch seam and nnist he the same color as the outer section. Now leaxing the lower edge open. Trim the corners otf apply the outside section of the collar onto the lounding, and turn right side out. If the coruers do l)oned foundation, either plain or draped as desired. not come out ]ierfectly. push them out with soiiu> Turn all the edges in over the boned foundation, dull instrunu'Ut. Ihning the collar turned right side slash so they will lie flat against the boned founda- out. now baste along th<' etlge to keep in position. At tion and l)aste thoroughly to position, always com- the lower edge tui'n to the inside the outer material mencing at centre front and basting to centi'e back. and the interlining one-fourth inch and baste. Now Cut a facing the size of the collar from the true bias tui'U up the i'dffi' of the lining letting it come be- of the same material as the foundation, baste to the tween the lining and the interlining, making the inside of collar and turn in the edges so they will turning one-fourth inch deep and baste. Baste the come to within one-eighth inch from the edges ol lower edge of the outer section and infer-lining to collar and fell to position. Collars which oi)en in the ne(d< curve of the gai'uu'Ut. holding the neck the back, every part of their eon.struction must be curve of the garment (piile taut to the collar. Stitch executed by commencing at centre front and bast- to position, and fell down the lining section to cover ing or sewing to centre back on each side. Should the .stitching. A row of nuu-hine stitching about one- eighth of an inch tlii> the collar be made by sewing from one end to the from the edge around collar will greatly improve its ,'i|ii)earance. other of it, the result will be a collar which twists

not fit neck at side. and will the the same each SAILOR COLLARS. In .-utting the cloth, be sure When the collar is to open in the front, then every to allow foi- seams. Line and make the collar, and part must be put together by working from centi'c linish the edges complete, except th(> one that sews back to centre front. The same rule a])plies to any to the garment. Where a collar is to be edged with S. T. TAYLOK SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 23

lace or , it is cut tlie width of the trim- when the collar is stitched to the garment. Stitch ming smaUer than it is to be when finished, of course, all three together, following the line of the neck. not forgetting to allow for seamx. The edge of the Turn the seam and the bias strip to the inside of the 'rimming is usually placed between the turned-in f'.arment, and hem the bias strip down over the seam edges of the outside and lining sections. The edges as a facing. are then finished either by slip stitching, or liy CUT ON TRUE BIAS, All sections machine stitching with one, two or more rows of of collars are to lie cut stitching. Then baste the neck curve of the collar on a bias, as far as possible. However, in and the neck curve of the waist together, holding many instances this can not be done, especially in the collar slightl.y full around the neck. Take a bias regard to the outer section of the collar, as much of

strip one and one-half inches wide and lay it on tlie I he beauty of the design of the material would l)e right side, so the inside edge can be stitched in lost.

How to Make Folds

Folds are always to l)e ciit on the true bias of the FOLDS WITH ONE OVERLAPPING THE OTH- material, for, when cut from other than the true bias ER, To make folds with one overlapjiing the other, a perfect fold can not be made, as ripples are sure to eut strips of the material on the true bias, making form across it. Work very lightly and do not handle them double the width the fold is to be, with one the fold more than is absolutely necessary. L^se additional inch to allow for sewing or lapping. Thus, great care not to stretch the edges of the fold. Never if the fold is to show one-half inch when completed, make straight joinings in folds, always make all cut the strips two inches wide. If of flimsy and joinings on the l)ias. This applies to end joinings as tliin material, line with soft crinoline, taffeta, or well, which are to l)e seanunl and pressed in the same satin. Fold over both edges and baste together, be- manner as the other joinings. Under no circum- ing very careful to keep tlie fold perfectly even. stances should folds be lapped where both ends meet, The folds are then basted to the garment, each one unless it is to form a part of the trimming. being fastened by stitching with the machine or slip stitching along the top edge PLAIN FOLDS OF VELVET, SILK. ETC. To before the next one is added. The edge of the last fold is usually finished make a plain fold of velvet, silk, dr., cut tliin crino- with a milliner's fold. line on the true bias the width the fold is to be when finished. Cut the edges perfectly even, for any little MILLINER'S FOLD, To make a milliner's fold, defect will positively show when the fold is com- which is a name given to a fold which forms its own pleted. Now cut out the material, from true bias, , cut the material double the width you wish one inch wider than the crinoline and baste the the fold to be when finished. Next turn down the crinoline on the goods, keeping it in exactly the top edge three-eighths of an inch, and the lower edge centre, leaving the fabric extend equal distances on up one-fourth inch, turning both of these edges to both sides. The edges of the material are then the under side. Now bring up the lower edge to turned over the crinoline and carefully basted. The within one-eighth of an inch from the top edge, edges of the material are then to be cat-stitched to keeping the right side out, and baste the crinoline, using care not to catch through to the both together There are various right side, A la.yer of cotton wadding placed lietween M-ays of finishing this fold, one being the outer material and the crinoline will sonu'times to slip stitch the one edge to the other, and improve the outside appearance and give a pleasing- then adjusting it to the garment by means of the effect. In instances where there is risk of the under- same stitches; or it may be stitched with the ma- side of the fold it is chine showing necessary to face the along its lower top edge and then fastened to fold with some thin material, such as silk, satin, etc., the dress slip with stitches. Then again it may be this entirely depending on where the fold is to be basted right to the garment and stitched with the placed, and the manner in whii-h it is to be applied. machine, however, this method is not satisfactory Folds to be adju.sted with macliine stitching ivquirc with all weaves, and must not be no lining, utilized without tirst trying a sample strip to determine if the ma- NARROW FOLDS, F,.r a very narrow fohl, the tei-ial will work smooth. The dimensions of the fold, material is cut wide enough to lap over on the as well as the edges to lie turned in, may be changed under side. to suit one's taste. 24 INSTIU'CTIOX BOOK VOW Sl'WIXC AM) IMTTIXC COURSE

FOLDS OF CREPE arc uiulcrlincd with silk. such riiuiidins', iiuisl have the lower edfre of the fcild make the upper edge lit smoothly. If a SEWING FOLDS TO GARMENTS. Folds may be stretched to fold is to be applied to a hollow rounding, the upper siipprd stitcliril, iir iii:irliinc stilclicd. as previously be stretched to make the low- referred to iiudi'r ^Milliner's Folds. Folds which arc edge of the fold must to be sewed around the bottom of a skirt or any er edge fit smoothly.

How to Make Piping

(lutside one ovei' the others, so as to Un-rn a hem, A piping is a border formed of any material on a Idlil. the pip- garment by means of the introduction in it of a Whei'c piping is to form the edge of a the fold, then pieee of , cable, or piping cord, for tlu; pur- ing or cording is tii'st adjusted to .sewing between the piji- pose of giving an appeai-ance of greater finish or fastened to the garment by the stitches to be concealed. In some adding to its strength. All jupings must be cut from ing and fold, is preferable! to fold the bias sti'ip over a true liias. instances it the cold and run snudl, even stitches thi-ough the piece oT the TO MAKE CORD PIPING. I'la.-e a bias stri|) close to the coi'd, to hold the cord enclosed cord to be useil along a strip of material—cut on the and then ad.iust the i)iping to the gai'ment. bias—on the wrong side, leaving a depth of two- thirds of the width of the strip whi<-h is to lie upper- FOLD PIPING. Cut a strip of material on the uu)st, when jilaced on the article to be bound. Tack true bias; fold o\'er and baste, bringing the two in the cord lightly, and then lay it on the raw edge edges together, kce])ing the right side out; adjust of the garment or article to be thus finished; the the piping from the inside with invisible stitches. cord side inward, that is, toward the woi'k. Stitch Ordinarily, the fold edge of the piiiing is to extend or backstitch all togethei'. keeping i-lnse to the cord. one-eighth of an inch beyond the fold edge to wliii'h Then turn all the raw edges inward, and turn in the it is being applied.

Matching Stripes and Plaids

The secret of nmtching stripes and iilaids in any ])atteiii of that section on tl:e bias or diagonal of garment lies in having a perfect pattern or founda- the material; if a hoi'izontal ell'ect is desired, the* tion. If there is any doubt as to the pattern being the section of the pattein is to be placed with the correct, the lining should be fitted before cutting out design running horizontal, etc. Diagonal weaves the material. This will be found necessary for gar- should never be matched into Vs, where\er it <-an ments which are to be cut from stock patterns; those be avoided, for, as tin* fabric would hax'c to be taken cut by the S. T. Taylor .system to individual measure- lengthwise and cro.ssM-ise to admit of such matching, ment will not need any changes. Jt is a very im- there would be chances that one .side of the waist portant matter that all scams are cut to one; width, would not fit as snuiothly oi" the sanu> as the op- as otlu^rwise trouble is apt to ai-ise in the joining. jtosite one. It is quite essential, that from wliati'ver Hefore cutting, ascertain which way the plaid or thread of the material the one side of the garment strijjc is to run in a garment. I'sually all plaids is cut, the 0]ijK)site side nuist be cut I'rom the same are so arranged that the darkest sti-ipes I'lni across thread to give sjitisfactory results. the bottom, with the lighter shades going upward; flowers and figures to be taken in the same direction. CUTTING PLAIDS AND STRIPES. Cut out one section from a single thickness of material at a time: ARRANGING PATTERNS ON STRIPES AND then take the portion just cut and place its right PLAIDS, .\rrange the pallcrn onto the mat. 'rial in side on the i-ight surface of the fabric so that the \vha1c\i'r manner it is desired to have the design I'un stri|)cs or plaids will ])erfectly match, and cut out in the garment; if a diagonal oi' V shape effect is the o])posite piece. By this same method all .seams desired in any section, it will be necessary to lay the mav be matched. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 25

Stitches—Tacks—Finishings

THREAD—NEEDLES, Thread 20. 2i and ;U). use Xo. 5 needle. Thread 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle. Thread 50 and 60, use No. 7 needle. Thread 70 and SO, u.se No. 8 needle. Thread 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle. Thread over 100 use No. 10 needle.

Fig. I. Only the best quality of needless are to be era- ployed. Before using, always test a needle to make sure of a sharp and perfect point. Never use a needle which is blunt on the point, or which has be- come l)ent. The size of the thread to be used de- pends upon the quality of the work. Never use other than a good quality, smooth thread.

TO MAKE A KNOT hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, wind the thread once around the end of the finger, twist the end twice into the loop with the thumb. Fig, 2. With th(> middle finger pull the loop to the end.

THIMBLE. Place the thimble on the second finger of the right hand. The thimble must fit perfectly; otherwise, the operator will be unable to do accurate .work.

HOLDING THE NEEDLE. Hold the needle be- tween the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, the eye of the needle on the thimble; press the needle gently betM'een the thumb and forefinger. It is a great fault to hold too firmly to the needle.

BASTING. Always pin carefully before basting (If the materials are silk or velvet, use needless in- stead of pins). For basting use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needles (betweens or tailors' needles). In basting take only one stitch at a time, basting ac- curately and true enough that the basting may be used as a guide when stitching. Careful basting ])reveut.s the seam or goods from puckering.

EVEN BASTING. The term "even l)astiug-' Fig. 4. means to make llie stitcli the same length on Ijotli the

Fig. 6. 26 I.NSTlUCTiON I5()()K l-OK Sl^WlNC AM) FITTIXC COUl^SE

iilipcr and hiwiM- side; this stitch varies in length fi'Dni onc-eigiith to (ine-l'oiii-t h incti, deijending upon where it is to l)e utilized. This way of liastin^- is used for seams of dr(>ss waists and where two or more thicknesses of material is used. See Fig. No. 1. UNEVEN BASTING. The term "uneven hast- ing" mi'aiis to make the stitch one inch long on the upper side and one-l'

No. ;!.

BACK STITCH. Use No. .50 thread and No. 7 needle. Hold the material over the left forefinger, holding it in i)laee with the thumb and second finger. Insert the needle from right to let't. i)iishiiig the lU'eiUe nearly through. Draw the needle out with the thread running between the third and little fin- ger. Repeat, taking up a little of the cloth with the needle, according to the size of the stit<'h desii'ed. Fasten the entl by taking two other stitches over the last stitch.

RUNNING BACK STITCH. Take up two (U- more one-eighth inch stitches on the needle at one time with one-eighth inch space between. Repeat begin- ning in the middle of the last stitch. A running back stitch is used wlu'U the requirement is a strong- ei- seam than foi- a running stitch. See Fig. No. 4.

' OVERHANDING. erhand is to .|i the Iges of cloth together, dge can be scl\i

1 14

'•5 S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 27

crease fold. LTse No. 70 tliread and No. 8 needle. Hold the material along the edge and around the end of the left forefinger, keeping it in place with the thuml) and .second finger. In starting the seam,

Fig. 14. iiold the two ends between the thumb and forefinger, inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and one-fourth inch from the end. Draw the needle through, holding the end of the thread under the thumb. Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to you, the needle point- ing toward you. Draw the needle through and place it through both ends of the goods, taking up two or strong fine twist is used for it. Fig. 5 illustrates the three thread.s of the cloth. Make the stitch close and regular. In overhanding the seamstre-ss works from left to right, passing the needle straight (not slanting) through the two edges of cloth. See Fig.

No. r,.

OVERCASTING. Overcasting is done by taking a slanting stitch over the raw edge of goods to pre- vent ravelling. Use No. 70 thread and No. 8 needle. Trim the edges neatly before overcasting. Begin at the left hand end of the seam. Hold the work over the forefinger of the left hand. Take a slanting stitch one-eighth inch deep and one-fourth incli ajiart for ordinary work. (Both the depth and length of the .stitch is to be regulated according to the require- ment.) Continue in this manner, being careful to make the stitches even. Do not draw the thread tight, as this would cause the material or seam to draw and pucker and loose its spring. In overcasting the .seamstress works from right to left, placing the needle into the material slanting, and holding the thread in position with tlie thumli until the stiti-h is made. See Fig. No. 7.

GATHERING. A gathering stitch is to take up several stitches on tlie needle having the space and stitch equal size, or when occasion requires, the space can be double the size of the stitch. Use No. 40 thread and No. 7 needle. In making a double gathering (two rows), be careful to have the stitches of the second row directly under the first row. Long stitches are to be taken when there is much fullness

riG. VI.—TACK1N( 28 I\ST[UTTIO\ IU)OK FOIl Si:\VIX(i AND I-[TT1X(; COURSI^

only. For most gatherings, a fine stitch is necessary PRICKING Is rnipldved in baek-st itching through for Ix'initil'iil worlc. S("(> Kunning Stitch, Fig. on unusual thickness; the lU'cdle is i)assed straight No. 3.) through and back as in [lutting on a metal button. To i)ick up a stitch with a sufficiently strong needle SHIRRING. Sliii'riiig is (lone by making several for the iturjxise would displace the relative positions i-o\vs (iT Liathi'iings dircftly under each other. Mark (if the textures. the required iiiiiiiher ol" rows at the desired distance from each otiii-r. In soft materials the finer the STOATING. Stoating is used to join two ends or stitches, the more lieautiful the shirring. The gatli- I ilges tiigetliei' when it is desirable to make the join ering can he drawn up on the threads, or by coids Matter than an ordinaiy stitched seam would do. A run between the rows. See Fig. No. 114. \('i-y thick cidlh may sometimes be joined raw edge to raw edge by this stitch in places where there will . This stitch ifj used for fasten- be no strain and an invisible join is desired. (See ing tlie rolled :ii)d invisible hem. to attach folds to Fig. TV.) garments, also milliner's fold, etc. For making blind stitch take up but one thread of the cloth, and DRAWING. Drawing is a stitch worked from the before drawing the needle init. lake uj> one-Fourlli right side, to di'aw two ends ov edges together and

FIG. III. —FELLING. inch of the edge of the fold. In making rolled hem leave an appeai'aiice of an ordinary scam. The cliiel' and attacliing folds to garments, the needle is so characteristic in the working of this stitch is to in- placed that the inside section of the outside is caught sert the needle in the one edge exactly opposite to the inider i)iece. M'here it came out of the other one, to prevent eas- ing the one to the other ov showing the stitches. (See

SLIP STITCH. To slij) stitch two edges together, Fig. V.) pass the needle in between tiu; folds of the two edges, catching first one then the other, using care FINE DRAWING. Fine drawing is applied to not to catch to the outside of cither edge, and not join two raw edges of cloth, usually a tear, so as to drawing the needle out until at the end of the thread render the break as invisible as ])ossil)le. A very fin(! or the material. The less fn'(|nentl.v the needle is needle threaded with finest silk twist must be used, drawn out and started again, the more smooth and and passed backwards and forwards just under the perfect will be the edges which have been slipped surface of th(> Tnaterial, all tlu' stitches being care- stitched. I'ullv made in dill'erent lengths, so as to a\-oid a ridgo ;

S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 29

wliere tlipy ceasp. AVith very thick toxtiires it is strong fine twist is used for it. Fig. VL illustrates often necessary to work on l)()tli sides. The surface the actual tacking stitches and the finished bar. of tlie cloth slionld be scratched up with two fine needles held together, then pressed from the wrong FELLING. AVhat in ordinary dressmaking is un- side with pieces of linen on both the right and derstood as felling is practically to hem down a wrong sides of the eloth. In some cases, the one turning or edge ; but various kinds of felling stitches between the iron and tlie eloth would require to be are to be employed, according to the work in hand. dampened a little. As a rule, the edge to lie felled is turned awaj' from the sewer, the exception being that of an outer edge TACKING— Tacking, as a term, signifies to nin that is turned toward the sewer, and felled from two edges together preparatory to stitching them left to right, instead of from right to left. Of the with the machine; it differs from "basting" in that three specimen stitches illustrated in Fig. III. No. 1 basting generally refers to securing any two flat sur- is used when a very slight seam is required ; the faces together, or running a thread round any part needle is slanted forward, likewise the stitch, enab- of a pattern to define the seam lines, making quite ling the work to be accomplished very quickly ; biit large stitches. there is very little strength in the stitch, and there-

FIG. VII.—BUTTONBOLE STITOH.

Tacking, as a stitch, means staying, to form a fore, when there is the likelihood of any strain at stop or security to corners where an opening occurs all on the seam, as, for instance, to a facing on the or a seam ends, such as pockets, plackets, etc. inside of a garment, say at the armholes or neck, it would not be firm enougJi, and then either No. 2 or TO MAKE TACKING STITCH. Several long 3 must be employed, the last being the strongest of stitches (hegiiuiing and ending at different places the three, as the needle and stitch both slant the for additionjil strength), are worked through the same way, and the needle is put in the fold first, and cloth and interlining crossing the end of the open- so gets a good hold of the goods; it will also be seen ing; they arc then sewn over with slanting stitches that in working this stitch the seam is held perpen- placed as closely as possible, each one going well dicular and worked toward the sewer. through; when it is finished the bar should sink well SERGING. Serging is the tailor name for over- into the goods. Sometimes, instead of this, a mitred casting, which see. design in machine stitching or a fan worked by hand is used; but the bar is the orthodox tailor finish; LOOP STITCH. When an edge is very much iu- .30 INSTIUCTIOX BOOK l-Oli Si:\Vl.\(; AM) F1TTL\(; COLKSl^

ilined to fray a loop stitch, such as is used to finish off the edfjes of blankets, etc., is employed instead of over<'astin

CROSS STITCH AS AN EDGE STAY. Wlien a raw cdijc is not lifiii cnoiiyli Id liold a I'elliny stilch and it is desirahle to secure it to tlie under surface

of cloth a cross stitch is ciii|>]oye(l ; this is also fre- ([uently worked on a narrow turning that is not ^:^ fastened down, as it gives an additional security to the seam, and if an accident should break the seam stitches the turning will not give way because of the

cross stitch, without which it would be very liable to do so. Fig. No. l;5, slu)ws the ordinary cross- stitch, with needle in position to work from right to left. Fig. No. 14 Shows the eross-stiteh used to finish a hem.

FEATHER STITCH. SINGLE. Fig. No. 1.", .shows a single feather stitch. This is also known as a herring bone or lu-iar stitch. This stitch is worked lengthwise. Start from the right, then to the left, keeping an even line. See Fig. No. 15, needle in po- sition. This stitch is used as a finishing stitch on bone casings, hems, etc. AVhen a hem is finished with a fancj' stitch, the hem is turned to the right side of the garment.

FEATHER STITCH, DOUBLE. Fig. No. 17, rep-

resents :i dcMililf I'rathi'r stilrh. This is used when a more elaborate stiti-ii is desired.

KENSINGTON STITCH. Fig. No. 10 shows the kensington stitch with the needle in position. Fig. 2 1

CHAIN STITCH. Fig No. 11 shows th •ha in stitch witii the uccdle in position.

Fig. 22 Fig. 23 S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 31

MACHINE STITCHING. First, soo that the ten- lohl. Ibild tlie hem over the first finger of the left tioii ill the mauhiue is neither to tight nor too loose, hand, holding it in place with the thumb and second with a stitch the proper h'ngth according to the finger. Insert the needle in the edge of fold, ])oint thickness of the material to be stitched, and run the from you, one-fourth inch from the end of the hem, machine with a steady motion (not too fast). Silk taking up two or three threads. Pull the needle tliread should always be employed, for it not only through, holding the end of the tliirad under the wears better, but is more elastic and yields to the tliumb. Now place the needle through the end of the pressing more effectually tlian does cotton. Stitch hem, needle pointing towards the left slioulder; take true and even, as much of the beauty of the gar- up two or three threads of tlie cloth and the same of ment will depend upon the stitching. Always see the fold. Continue taking the desired stitch, being that all basting is strong enough to firmly hold the careful to make the stitches even. In starting a two edges to be stitched, and so prevent one edge new thread, place the end of the previous thread being "pushed" when sewn by machine. under the hem and start as beginning. Always cut, never break the thread. To fasten at the finisli take . A gusset is a piece of cloth cut in the two or three stitches over the last one taken. Fig. shape of a triangle and used to enlarge, and as a No. ") shows the stitch and needle in position. stay in an opening at the end of a seam. It can be cut HEM IN HEAVY TEXTILES. In heavy t(>xtiles any size desired. Take a piece of cloth two by two the edge of tlie hem is not turned in. To make this inches and fold to form a triangle and cut in the neatly, lay the cloth with the right side on a board fold. Always set a gusset into a seam, never into a or table, turn over the hem the depth required and rent made by cutting down, as the hem on edge

baste down ' smoothly with about one inch stitches cannot be Avell finished ready for . Put a one-half inch below the raw edge. Cat or cross row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after stitch (see cross stitch), the hem from left to right, set in. so tliat one stitch will rest on the hem, one-eighth TO MAKE A TRUE OR CORRECT BIAS. To inch back from the raw edge, and the next in the make a correct bias, cut directly along a thread material just below the hem, so on alternately the crosswise of the material ; then fold the corner over full length of the hem. Care must be taken to keep so the straight cross edge wiiich has .iust been cut, the hem straight. When taking the stitch in the ma- will lie directly along a lengthwise thread of the terial, be careful to only catch one stitch of the material. fabric, so that it will not show on the right side. Do not |)ut the stitches very close or draw the thread HEMMING. To form a bciii. turn the edge of the tight, as the latter would cause the outside to show material in one-fourth inch and crease, on woolen dents at every stitch made. Use a very fine needle or soft material baste to position, then fold the width and fine silk thread. Fig. No. 14 shows the cross of desired liaste near the edge of the first hem and stitch used to finish a liem. HEM IN THIN FABRICS. In thin fabrics the hem is seldom left with a raw edge, as all edges which ravel should be concealed. Therefore, the edge of the hem is to be turned in and the hem basted over according to instructions for "Hem- ming." It is then to be felled or cross stitched to position. The cross stitching lieing done as instruc- tions for "Hem in Heavy Textiles." To do the fell- ing properly, and so it will not show on the out- side, use a very fine needle and sewing silk the identical color of the fabric. Pass the needle first Ihi-ough the edge of the hem and then take up one stitch in the material close to the hem, and so on, alternately working right to left. Not more than one top thread of the material is to be taken up when making the above stitch, as otherwise the sew- ing would show on the right side of the material and this must be positively avoided. IMake the stitches as far apart as practical and leave the tlireail quite FIG. IV. —STOATING. loose. I.NSTKL'CTIO.N BOOK FOR SEWING AMU I'lTTlMG COURSE

HEM WITH BOUND EDGE. The raw oilgo of a quarters of an inch, and stitching along the seam hoin may lie tiiiislicd liy adjusting nl>li<)ii hiiuliiig flat one-eighth inch from the edge. Turn over and fell 11."). on the raw (hIko of llie fal)ric. Tlu' i-il)l)on bimling to i)osition. (Sec Fig. No. i must be sewed on a little full. The other edpre is to HEMS IN WASH FABRICS. Arc usually stitched he felled to the material. If this is done neatly it by machine, although in the liner fabrics hand-sew- finish. will make a very pretty ing is better applied, and ever so much more dainty

HEM ON OUTER SIDE OF GARMENT. On ,-, iid pleasing. fahrirs li:i\iii^' doiililf i'^irr. (ir hoi h sides alike, it is CORNERS OF HEMS, TO MITRE. This is one a uuitti'r of individual taste wiietlier tiie iiem is part of garment-making which demantls particular turned to the i-ight or wron»: side of (he material. attention; for if the corners of a hem are not well It frequently making a very pretty finish and trim- made, the result will never be artistic. Ripping and riiinjr in itself. When hems are to ,be turned to the undoing the parts will spoil the smooth appearance outer side of fabrie, the seams are clipped to the of the hem. Turn the hem over and baste to posi- depth required and are tui'ned to the rijjht side as tion along one edge and then along the other edge represented in Fig. No. 24. The hem is then turned of the material. This will let the hem of the one over and blind-stitehed. slipped-stitehod, eros.s- edge rest directly across the hem of the other edge stitched, feathei--stitehed, double feather-stitehed, or at the corner. With tracing wheel or thread, mark machine stitched. diagonally from Avhere the two hems meet at the upper edges out to the point of the corner. Open NARROW HOLLOW OR ROLL HEM. Do not try the corner, and cut at one-fovirth inch outside the to tiu'n in the edges, jdace the edge of the material marking of both the upper and lower hem. Fold in between the tluuub and tiist finger and with the the edge of the mitre of the upper hem at the mark- thumb roll the I'aw edge in, either to the right or ing and fell, slip-stiteh or machine-stitch to posi- wrong side as desired, then fell or blind stitch to tion to the under hem at the mark for the mitre. Or position. Uo this work very lightly and do not the mitre may be stitched on the wrong side, the handle it more than is absolutel.v necessary. "When seam opened and pressed and then turned over and rolling this hem to the outer side, the seams are to sewed to position. Or it may be joined by means of be clijiped to the depth required and are turned the drawing stitch. Under no circumstances should to the right side as represented in Fig. No. 2-t. The extra fullness be left to lie underneath a mitre where roll hi'm is the most dainty and narrow hem made. a flat finish is desired. Tf the work has been care- FRENCH FELL HEMS. Fi-cndi fell hems are fully done there will be a perfect res)dt. All hems frequently used on rutfles, etc., and ai'e made by are to be well pressed when finished. (See Press- turning in the one edge to the depth of about three- ing.) Facings

SHAPED FACINGS. If th.'re is t.... much ol' a turning it in; the pinking being preferable when an curve, either rounding or hollow, to admit of a e.xci'cdingl.v snmoth effect (Ui the outside is desired. smooth hem then a facing is by far preferable. Fac- The edge may then be cross-stitched oi' iiuudiine ings are usually made of the same material, silk, stitched to position. satin, or fine broadcloth. The facing is cut the same BIAS FACING. T.ias l'a<'ings are made and aji- shape as the curved edge, on the same thread of the plied in the same manner as shaped facings (which material, allowing for one-fourth inch s<'am turning see), with the exception, that bias facings nuist be both low(>r and top edge. Then turn in the one- stretched to fit curved edges and are never desirable fourth incdi at both top and bottom and baste to po- when there is very much curve In the edge. When sition inch the with three-c|uai'ter stit<'hes. Turn in fabi'ics are so scant they will mil peiniit oT a hem. bottom e<1ge of the section to be faced one-fourth a bias facing is to be used. inch and baste to jiosition. The facing is now to be In applying facings around the lidllcnn of sleeves, lia.sted to the section, by ])lacing the wi'ong side of waists, skirts etc., or wherever a lacing may be the facing against the wrong side of the section needed, always bear in mind. ni'\cr to Imld a facing keeping the lower edges even. The lower edge is taut when basting it against the inal

S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTI^HN PARLORS 33

Buttonholes

A garment that is perfect in evoi-y other respect about one and one-fourth inches long with tJie may be greatly injured in ai)pearance by liadly cut rounding, unless larger are required and poorly worked buttonholes. then the opening must be made in accordance. The foregoing size may be used for all smaller button- HOW TO CUT BUTTONHOLES. One of the most holes, by laying a piece of metal or cardboard across nutii-calilr iaults seen in hiil toiiholcs is that result- the end of the opening, making the same smaller. If ing from cutting tlie holes so that there is a break the eyelet is not desired in the buttonhole, then in the slash, which jiroduces an uneven or jagged place the cardboard or metal strip across the eye- edge. This is fi'cMiuently caused by the use of dull let end. The plate is placed over the mark for the scissors, or from cutting the buttonhole with two or buttonhole, and a little mucilage or shellac is more clips or movements of the scissors. And again, brushed over the opening, care being taken to press it is sometimes due to the slipping of fabrics which the plate down firndy to avoid the liquid spreading. are soft and elastic, or where there are two or more When dry, the buttonhole is cut and worked in the thicknesses. To prevent this very common accident, usual way, and if properly done, it will be found before cutting the buttonholes have the edges of the there are no fraying of edges or raveling threads to garment finished and the parts well basted together be tucked under. Under no circumstances is the by running a basting along the edge of the garment, mucilage or shellac to be used without the aid of the and another basting at a distance back from the plate, as it must not be allowed to spread farther edge of the length the buttonhole is to be. than the buttonhole stitches are intended to cover. All Inittonholes must be exactly alike, and at Buttonholes on ladies' and children's garments equal distances apart. They are cut large enough ai'c always made on the" right side; men's garments for the button to i)ass easily through without draw- having them on the left side, biittoning to the right. ing. Ascertain the required size on a separate piece of nmterial. To determine how far the buttonholes HOW TO WORK BUTTONHOLES. With fine imI^cs are to be placed apart, mark where the first and silk ovcrcMst tlie of each buttonhole as it is cut, last buttonholes are to be placed and divide the making tlie stitches one-eighth inch apart; great space between in equal distances. For vests and care being taken not to draw the edges out of shape. close fitting waists they are seldom set more than at A thread should then be run round to mark the the most one inch apart, this depending entirely depth which the stitches are to be taken, though an upon the style or button being used and the pre- expert does not require this where the edge is over- vailing fashion. In vests, waists and coats, the but- cast. Now thread two needles with twist: draw the one thi'ougli tlie tonhole is usually cut crosswise, commencing to cut garment at the back end of the directly on the fitting line and at right angle with buttonhole, at the lower side, the needle end is fast- the closing edge. On curved edges it is often neces- ened to the knee, fabric, or some convenient place sary to deviate a little from this rule in order to then work the buttonhole with produce a harmonious effect. In plaid goods always with the second needle (as clearly defined in Fig. No. VII), by inserting the cut on a straight line of th(^ plaids, unless it has been needle into the lower back end taken bias, then the same rule applies as used on of the buttonhole, point towards .you, taking stitch l)lain materials. Buttonhole scissors are to be used the same depth as in overcasting, or just to the outi-r when cutting buttonholes. Set the guage at the de- edge of the thread used to mark the depth which the sired length for buttonhole, fasten firmly and with stitches are to be taken. Draw the needle and thread a steady hand cut. To cut the eyelet buttonhole, through. Insert the needle again, a thread or two first cut out the eyelet with a punch, exactly on the from the first stitch, pushing the needle half way fitting line, and the rest of the buttonhole with the through; now throw the thread under the point of buttonhole scissors, being careful to cut directly needle from right to left. Draw the needle and from the centre of the eyelet. thread out at right angles with the slit, the twist coming at the top edge of the slit. After each stitch TO CUT BUTTONHOLES IN MATERIALS is drawn down the loose twist should be picked up WHICH FEAY. For thin materials, or materials firmly by the thumb and forefinger quite near the such as are apt to fray, use a very tliin plate of tin stitch, and two or three circular twisting movements or brass about one inch wide and three inches long, are to be made so that the loop formed will settle with an opening cut in, as sliowii in Fig. No. 20. This securely and neatly into its proper position. Be opening is about one-sixteenth ol' an inch wide and careful to eoniplete each stitch with uniform move- 34 ixsTiucTiox BOOK I'Oi^ si:wi\(; AM) iMTTfxc corusi':

nients, earryiiijj- the loose thrr.-ul nl' tin' lii-sl iicedlc edges just back of the stilches. Then they arc to be tho whole way romiil uiuIit llic slilc-hcs. kcc|tins' it pi-essed through a dami)ened cloth (the dampened straifrht aiul avoidinir catcliinK it with the needle. cloth is to be used on all buttonholes when the goods When the buttotiliole is worked all i-ouiid fasten olV will permit). Eyelet bultonholes are to be pressed the working stileli just opposite the fust one; hold in the same numner, and before they are dry, a stil- tlie hiittonhole riiiid\- between the liiifi:er and tlniinl) etto or some similar ivory or metalic instrunu'Ut of tlie jelt liand and jreiitly pull the loose thread. should be pushed vigorously up through each eydct niid

across till' end with that thread. l)y passiiii;- the stilches around its edges are regular and distinct. needle u|i and down ihro\it;h the floods, until two oi- Then, when the bastings are renu)\-eil. the button- thi'ee thi'eads cross the end of the buttonhole (|ui1i' holes will Itc syiiii'trical in appc.-iraiicc. dose to tlu' stitches. Then the nee'dle is brousilit np The throufrh the laiu'ic at one siile of these threa is to ROUND EDGE. PLAIN, SINGLE BARRED BOT- be when eom]deted. Cut a bias sti'ip of the fabric TONHOLE. Kiii'. No. 21. illusi rates the roun,l e.l-e. till' buttonhole is to be made of just as long as the plain buttonhole, 'i'liis style buttonhole is usually cord ami wide enough to cover same, allowing used on lit ted di'css fi-onts. underfi'arnu'nts. etc. This enough for felling over each other on the under sid<'. is worked from tin- back eiul around the point of the ("are must be taken to draw the material smoothl.v front end to the back eiul and bai' taid centre where both edges have been qrc to be worked up and down, thus fiivinj"; a side joined togethei'. liuttouholes to be made (d' plain .strain on tlie hole. This buttonhole is bar-tack(>d at or fancy cord ai'c made in this same way, with the both cuds. ex('(q)tion that the covering is omitted. Fiy. Xo. 2.). illustrates EYELET BUTTONHOLE. A very prett.v trimming buttonhole is ibnie in the the eyelet buttonhole. of hea\y For garments doth following manner: Cut a bias piece ol' the chosen Iiodiees stylo is and foi" many this buttonhole the fabric one iiu-h wiile and four and one-half inches best most satisfactory in all respects, il pro- and as long—these dinu'Usious nuiking a buttoiduile of one vides resting jilace for or a the of the liutton and one-half inches in length when completed, -loin the stitches holding the button. To work this imt- both ends of the sti'ip together on the slant and jircss totdiole pi'oceed exactly the sanu' as instructions the sciun o])en. Next turn down the upper edge given. "Ilow to Work HuttonlH)Ies, " with the ex- about one-eighth of an inch and the lower one up ce|)tion, when the eyelet is readieii, the woi-k must three-eights of an inch. Now fold up this lower edge be trille so the twirling adjusted a that movemeni lo w itliin one-sixteenth of an inch from the very top of tlu^ working thi'cad nuiy be nuule in a slightly edge and slip or blind stitch both edges together, difTci-cnt direction, a corner thus forming at the be- being cautious about getting stitches through to the ginning of the eyelet ; these m()v<'nu'nts are to be and outside. This strip is then folded into the shaj)!' of reversed at the o])i)osite side to i)r()d\u'e a similar the butlonhole. (If the buttonh(>le has been nuule coi-n(!r at the end of the eyelet. The ba(d< end of the from nuitei'ial other than silk. ]U-ess it slightly before eyelet l)uttonholc ' be 'Maidced" or may "bar- forming it.) The ends are to be well tacked before stitched," attaching it to the garnu'nt. To fasten, blind or PRESSING BUTTONHOLES. After the l)utton- slip stitch from underneath along each side of the holcs air Worked, their straight edg(>s should lie i)uttonholc. Do this veiy dainty, as ])ressing the but- elosely basted togdiier \ty ,-in over-aiid-ovei' stitch. tonhole too much with the fingers will give it a plast- nuide by pushing the needle up and down over the ered clVc-l. —

S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTEIiX PAHLOI^S 35

To Sew on Buttons

Have all parts stayed with tap<' nv a strii) of canv- close to the garment and not wound. When but- as along the line you wish to sew on Inittons. li' pos- tons with wire shanks are to be ad.justed, pierce a sible, have this stay eoneealed between the lining small hole just where the button is to be placed, and and outside fabric. Make marks to designate the pass the shank of the button through this and fasten place where the centre of the button is to rest on the on the underside with a shank ring; or, if none are garment. at hand, pass a cord or tape through the shank and Shank buttons are to lie sewed on running parallel fasten by sewing it firmly to the lining on each side witii the buttonhole, not lengthwise, unless eyelet of the shank. Where several or more buttons are to buttonholes have l)een nuule, then it will not make be fastened with one cord or tape, leave the latter a any difference. Buttons without shanks, that are to trifle loo.se between them—just enough to ease it be sewed on through holes in them, must be sewed for drawing the same would cause the outside fabric very loosely to permit of winding the threads to to draw and «rink'le. form a thread shank, thus pi-eventing a drawn and THREAD FOR SEWING ON BUTTONS. Silk gapped appearance on the buttonhole, when but- twist or cotton thread, the latter in number from 8 toned, and at the same time it iiiereases the dura- to 40, according to the size of the button, are to be bility of the work. used. Always use doid)le thread to sew on buttons. SEWING BUTTONS TRIMMING EF- The knot of the thread must be invisible place it ON FOR ; FECTS. Whei-e buttons arc to lie used \\>v triiii- between the button and fabric, or between the stay mina-, those with holes and flat sli.-inks are sewed and outside fabric.

Harmonizing and Becoming Colors

A gown should never be anything but the fi'ame both blonds and brunettes. Turquoise-blue is par- for a picture—elegant and costly, li you will, but ticularly becoming to women having dark hair and still a frame; and it may be observed, as a general blue eyes. The paler shades of blue and yellow and rule, that while a gleam of lich color suggests in- the most delicate greens are especially adapted to finite possibilities, the same coloi- coxering a large blondes; so also are the darker tones of blue and area suggests nothing but monotony, and this is to gi-cen, together with the whole range of tans and be avoided where colors are to be used for triuuning. golden browns. Grays are also very becoming to In the selection of colors it is imiierati\e that one blondes. Violet can be woi'ii by brunettes having should know just what shades harmonize best with very fair complexions and by women w'ith chestnut the hair and complexion, ('ontrasts are full of artis- brown hair and hazel eyes. Pale pink and pale blue tic possibilities, but the.y nuist never be glaring. It can be safel.y worn by both blondes and bnuiettes. is always an evidence of bad taste to wear any color Golden brown i.s very becoming to a titian blonde, that by reason of its brilliancy attracts attention to in whose reddish gold or golden bronze hair are rich itself. The hndsomest garment will ajipear ugly lights and shadows that accord well with similar where the color is not becoming. tints in the gown. After these may be mentioned pale or very dark greens, pale yellow and black, un- BLACK IS A STAND-BY. It harmonizes with all relieved by colors, for this type of blonde. times and occasions and suits almost every com- If one has a very pale complexion, the most trying plexion. It is the leading favorite with all classes tones are the light grays and tans which impart a and conditions of women, and can be depended upon yellow tinge to the face. Heliotropes as .well as reds in any emergency. Even a sallow bruni'tte loolvs of all shades must, on general principals, be avoided, well in it. and a dazling blonde in a handsome black or at least carefully selected by women with auburn costume is a feast for the eyes. There are various hair, although, some shades of red are becoming to shades of black—the dull deep blacks being chosen the purest blonde types. Certain shades of red, such for mourning, tin' othei' lilncl

l)rowii iuc Jilsii hccominfr to a hruiiottc. Roso red, if avoided by ]ji'unett(>s. In gi'ays, choose blue gray worn uc'xt tlu- skin, will eansc the most lirilliaiit for the l)londe, and a pink gray for the brunette. tH)nii)li'xiou to lose some of its freshness. Military Lavender shades are also bcrdiniiig to lii-unettes of blue, as well as yellow, ai-e always beeoming to bru- fair complexion. nettes. Navy blue ean i)e worn by ail types, with In the selection ol' tones, haniKUiy is the secret the exei'|)tioii (if the pnrple navy, whii-h must be of success.

To Improve the Figure—Becoming Lines

The artist finds in the lines of a- gown or suit as age size can wear almost any style, wherea.s, the great a field for the display of judgment and talent slim woiium must ado|)t the full wai.st to give her a as in the coloring, oi'namentation and texture of the broad effect. Plain wiiists ;ire to be entirely disre- material. The study of three things is necessary in garded by the slim woman. order to secure a style of dress which will conform Loose fitting conceals and tightness emi)hasizes the to a certain extent to the dictates of fashion, and l)e good or bad qualities of the lines beneatli. For this artistic anil i)ee()ming. The three essentials ai-e reason it is .just as imi)ortant to gown the large figure form, coloi' and fabric. A woman who has an ele- loosely as the small one, hut unfortunately, the aver- gant figure nnist make the most of it, and each one age large person does not realize this fact as keenly nnist study the style of dress wlii<'h will bring out as the vei'v slight individual does. Of eoui'se, the her gooil points and cover up her defects, .\o gown tri'atiiumt of the two figures is i|uit(> dilferent, but or suit can possibly be stylish unless it is becoming the prineijile involved is the same, nanndy, that of to the individual. concealing the undesirable lines, and when this is Stout women should avoid lough. hea\y falirics. not accomplished, the sight is a sad reflection on the These are to be left to the tall, angular woman, while woman's gown-maker, whose; duty' it is to save her those who are petite may revel in light diaiihanous fr(nu such exhibition. If any of the nnsightliness is nuiterials, with plenty of laces and ribbons. due to poor corsettiug, this fact will not excuse the Another jioint worth consideration is, that while gown-maker, as she should not be foolish enough to many women have short waists and long limbs, oth- attemjit to build a gown on such a foundation, foi- I'rs have extreme length of body coujiled with short- the I'orset bears the same relati(ni to the modern ness of limb. Tn the first instance long wjiist eifeels gown that the foundation of a huihling does to and full skirts with horizontal trimmings will bi' ai'chitecture. Insist on your customer being well found mt)st becoming; while in the sei-ond. round corsetted if .you have any' hope of your work show- waists and straight sweeping skirts will add ap])ai- ing qualily. (This does not mean that she must part ent length to the Iind)s and heighth to the ligure. with a fancy i)riee for a custom-made corset.) If a On the princijjle that vertical strii)es tend to (li|)lomatic explanation to your eustomei- of the ne- (dongate. and horizontal stripes to widen, stout wom- cessity of projH'r stays does not convince her of the en always look best in the former, while the latter reasonableness of your recpu'st, you shoidd, in jus- are ada])tcd only to the tall, slender women. This tice to yourself and your work, refuse to aeci>pt her mil- also ai)plies to plaids. Narrow stripes ai'e to lie order. It is a mistake for the stout woman to cling avoidetl. when a pronounciMl effect is sought, as only to the old-fashioned stays, that permits, and helps broad stri])es hav(> character. These as well as to increase the size and quantity of fatty tissues of plaids, nuist he accurately matched in making. Quiet the abdomen; that destroys all "poise" and "car- coloi's and designs ai'e essential both in textiles and riage;'' that eb^vates the bust to a horrible line in garnitures, when the wearer's avoirdujjois is ex- which shoi'fens the length of the neck (in effect, if i-essive. No nuitter how strong the temptation may not in I'cality), and which does not i)oss(>ss a single be to choose glowing colors and bold ])attei'ns, it ]ioint in its favoi'. A sei'ions and common error is cannot be yielded to if really tasteful dress is de- often made in lacing tiie slay to tight, causing the sired. llesh to protrude above oi' lielow. This difHculty is For bodices, any decoration that tends to give the easily overcome by using three lacei-s, each one lac- waist a tajtering effect may be safely ado|)ted by ing about one-third of the stay. The centi'c laeer llie woman of more than average rotundity —all hij) is used to take the great(>r ])art of the strain, while triiiindngs to be avoid<'d. A waist pointed front and the lop and bottom ones are drawn only sul'lieient ly liack. and short ovi-i' the hips, will adcl very much tighl to make the stay lie smoothly ;igainst the lo giving Ol- making a gond figure. Women of aver- liirure. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS 37

The hartlest of all the aliiidiiiiMl lines to eoueeal is in the liack shiudd be avoided in sucii i-ases, unless the large abilomen. Tlie best remed.y available is the figure is very slight; the short-waisted or Empire tirst to make sui-e the skirt does not poke out in etifeets are better, but, of course, it is only directly in centre of the that the line is so helpful, front at the bottom, l See Filtinj;- Skirts.) Seeondly, the back the bust should be liuilt mit. \\

Helpful Facts

Velvets, plush and astrachans should l)e made with The warp threads of a cloth run lengthwise. The the nap or pile running up. filling or wool runs crosswise. Paste velvet with smving silk, never with cotton Folds and creases in fabrics must be remov(Nl be- thread. fore the material is made up. Folds down the fi-ont Hold velvet lightly when sewing. I'se an extra 01 a skirt is very bad form. piece of velvet both piles together. All selveges are to be cut off entirely before Always interline velvet with fine crinoline. .shrinking or sewing. Cloths and all wool fabrics are to lie made with Always cut, never tear goods. the nap or pile running doAvn. When taking out stitches pick one out at a tinu\ Sponge and shrink all woolen cloths liefore cutting being careful not to mar or soil the work. and making. "When basting or tacking skirt seams, where one S])onge and shriids ;dl wool biaids and triiumings edge is straight and the other sloped, the sloped Ix'fore applying to garment either lor finishing or edge should always be held towards the sewer, oth- trimming purposes. erwise it is likely to become tightened, as being The pile or nap of each piece nuist run the same sloped it will easily stretch. This same rule applies way, else it would appear as if two different ma- to all seams which have a straight and bias edge to terials had been used. join together. Satin should always be made witli the nap running In tacking shields care should be taken to catch in down. the binding, not through the rubber. "When cutting changeable goods, be careful to cut Loops made of ribbon binding are sewed to the the pieces to run one way. This rule also applies to armhole, at the end of the side form seams, to be colored cashmeres and Henrietta weaves; for. though used as hangers. not changeable in eifect, they often show a different Never juece a skii-t at the top 1o h'ngthen it. un- shade when taken up and down. less a yoke is used. 38 IXSTKLCTION BOOK FOR Si:\\"l.\(; AM) IITTINC COlKSi:

Select tlireail or silk a sliade darker tliau the ma- Long stra'ght seams aie to be liasted together, terial, as it will woi k liarhtei-. then marked for stiteiiing liy placing a long I'lde on llii'm and making a fine chalk iiiai-k directly along Only the best i|uality of eanvas is ever to be used, where they are to be stitcheil. and every thread of it must be thoroughly shrunk before entering the garment. Attention to small details proves that a seamstress tiikes ]iride in her work, and that she undei-stands Ends of threads should always be fastened. Muili tile ait thoroughly. time can often he saved by stitidiing fiom a little Aecurarv in every deliul is absolutely necessary, way in the goods to the edge on a line where the not oidy because the result will l)e pleasing to the stitching is to be, then raise the , turn eye. but as well that no garment can be perfect in Ihe goods and stich the .seam where wanted and at tit and finish without it. the other end turn and retrace a short distance. The slightest deviation from a measni'ement, any In sewing gathers on a band. theV should always neglect to fasten threads properly, will often spoil a be placed next to the feed with the band on top. as garment. The operator is not to allow herself to the feed will h<'lp to crowd the gather.s in place. think that a little more or a little less here or there, When possible, keep the l)ulk of tlie goods to the or a hasty finish, will make no difference in the gen- left of the needle, as it is hard to keep the goods in eral effecl of the gai-ment. It certainly Avill, as she I)laee when forcing a great amount under the arm of will find to her sorrow. the machine, and the feed has a tendency to push the Absolute correct measurements and neatness of goods to one side. finish are essential to good workmanship.

A Few Facts Concerning Dress Cutting and the System to Use

There are many devices and methods used, nearly The S. T. Taylor .system of dress-cutting is the all of them having some good points, even the ma- only .system not a chart. It is the great and original chine and charts: but in no in.stance is either a ma- Taylor s^-steui. It was invented in 1848. Since that chine or chart used in designing or cutting for high- date, a great many have tried to infringe upon and grade manufacturing jiurprtses. You need not take immitate both the name and the system, but so far our word, but go and sec the manufacturers and none have equaled it in any respect, nor have they satisfy yourself. ever l)een able to displace it from any of the large establishments who take pride in the fact that the As to ladies tailors and first-class dressmakers the name S. T. Taylor Co.. is upon every part of the machine and chart systems can nowhere be found in .system used in their cutting and work rooms. use in th<'ir establishments. Go to Redfern, Haas The great success of the S. T. Taylor .system is due Bros., Donovan's, ^frs. Osbourn's, iMcC'reery's. Alt- to its sim]>licity and accuracy, and to the fact that it man's, Lord & Taylor's, Green's, in fact, a.sk any can be adapted to every change in fasiiion. It is first-class dressmaker or ladies' tailor, and invariably used by the S. T. Taylor Co., in designing and cut- they will say, they use a srpiare measure sj'stem. ting every one of their celebi-ated Le Bon Ton pat- Then liy all means learn the s

Definitions and Pronunciation of Some Technical Terms Used in Dressmaking and Tailoring

Accordion Plaiting (Ak-kor-dion IMat-ing i —Singh All)atross (Al-ba-ti-ossi —A soft, fine wool ma- jilaits to staml back and forward, as the bellows on terial. an ai'cordion; can only be doiii' by machine. Antiijue (Au-teek) —Generally used to designate Ajour (Ah-shuri — .\n openwork in embroidery. of former centuries. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AM) PATTLHN PARLORS 39

Albert Cloth— Xamcnl for JiJnglands Prince, is a Border (Bor-der) —A garniture at the edge or just reversible all-wool material, each side of different above it. colors and so iinished that no liiiino; is required. It Boucle (Boo-clay) —Tiny locks of hair scattered is used chiefly for coats and cloaks and is better over the surface of a avooI material. known as "golf cloth." "plaid nack," etc. Bouffant (Boo-fon)—A very full effect. Bouillounce (Bul-yon-nay) A [)uffing. Appliiiue (Ap-plce-kay ) —To apply one material to — threads or knots in another, as lace ornaments are sewed to silk and the Bourette (Boo-ret) —Kongh straight or uneven stripes. like ; also used to designate a certain embroidery Box-plait (Box-plate) liaek and forward laid and lace. —A plait. Ajtron (A-pron) —A drajied or flat skirt front. re\er-band, Ai-abesque (Ar-a-besk) — Scroll figures. Bretclle (BraytelD—A or the like, from shoulder to the waist line, front Armure (Ah-moor) —A fancy weave having a extending the ; often as suspender trimming. birds-eye or diaper effect. and back known Brilliantine (Brill-yan-teen) —A coarsely woveu Astrakhan (As-tra-can i —Fur of the astrakan goat, very wavy and short. moliair with a glossy surface. Astrakhan Cloth—An imitaticm of astrakhan made Broche (Bro-sha) or Brocade (Bro-cade) —An em- with a glossy, curly fur. broidered effect obtained by . Haby. or Persian Lamb (Per-sheu) —Fur skin of Broadcloth—A fine woolen cloth with a glossy the stillborn lamb. finished surface. It takes its name from its width. It is used for women's wear. Basque (Bask) —A tiglit-titting waist extending men's and beloM- the waist line in different shapes. Buckram—A coarse, plain woven linen or cotton Batiste (Ba-test) —The French word for lawn, fine material used for stiffening. white cotton or linen fabrics, sometimes printed. Buckskin—A stout dooskiu with a more defined Batting or Padding—Cotton or wool prepared in twill. sheets for quilting or interlining. Brode (liro-day) —Eml)roitlcred effects. Battlements (Bat-tle-ments) —Square cut tabs. Cabuclions (Ca-boo-shon) —Large, usually round, Beaver (Be-ver) —Similar to kersey, but Avith a ornaments of jet, inetal, glass, pearl, etc., used as a long nap ; soft, thick nap inside. trimming. Bayadere (By-a-dare) —Uucvi'n stripes runuing Cambric (kam-brie) —Fine white linen, also made crosswise of the material. in cotton in imitation. Bedford Cord—A closely woveu woolen or cotton Camels ILnir—A beautiful, soft, silky fabric, usu- cloth having a raised corded surface similar to ally woven like du'viot of hair of the eanud or goat. pique. Canvas—A closely woven linen or cotton material Bengaline (Beu-ja-leen) —A material with a heavy used for stiffening. filled cord covered with silk or wool. Canton Flannel—A stout, twilled cotton cloth with Bertha (Bertha) —Any kind of a trimming such as a nap on one or both sides, used for clothing or deco- a ruft'Ie or shaped rever following tln' outline of a rative purpo.ses. The cheaper grades are used for low-necked or yoke waist. interlining silks, etc., to give them extra weight. Beurre (Bu-ray) —Butter color. Caracule (Ca-ra-cool) —Fine astrakhan fur, with a Bias (By-as) —The diagonal edge of matt'rial. moire or watered appearance. Bishop Form (Bc-shuj)) —A shape, like sleeves Carreau (Car-ro) —Cross-bar, square or checked Avorn on the robes of the Episcopal Church, either figure. plain or gathered at the top, the fullness at the lower Cashmere (Cash-mere) —A soft wool material \\ith part being caught to a liand over which the fullness a diagonal ril) on the right side. dro])s to form a puff'. Cascade (Cas-eade) —ilaterial eut slant and Blazer (Blaseri —A cutaway .iaeket, generally un- plaited over each other to form shells. buttoned in front, and extending below the waist Cliangenant (Shan-sluin'i— or Chameleon (Car- line. may-le-on") —Two or more colors woveu together to Blouse—Loose round waist, or in other words, a produce changeable effects. full waist to drop over the waist belt. Chenille (She-neel) —A soft, hairy cord. Boa (Bo-ah) —A long or short Huffy ariicle for tlie Cheviot (Siia-vi-ot) —A wixd material with a diag- neck ; made of feathers, fur, lace, etc. onal cord. Bodice (Bod-is) —A close-fitting waist. Chitt'on (She-fon)—A very soft, flimsy, thin silk Bolero (Bo-leer-ro) —A small, i-ouml sleeveless material. jacket. Chine (She-nay 1 —An effect produced by printing 40 LNSTKLCTION HOOK [•OK Si:\\I.N(i AM) I'lTTlNCJ COURSI>:

weave, the warp Ix'foiv wraviiiu- iind tln'ii tilliiiu with plain which the yai-n is but slightly Iwisti'd, plain colors. or twilled. Clunix (Shoe) —A huy:e rosette. Flannellette—A cotton imitation of llannel. C'oHarette (Col-lar-et)—or Collet (Col-lay )— Vari- Kohl— Is made by doubling oni' part of the ma- ous shaped collar covering the shoiildcis. terial over the other. Corduroy (Cor-de-roy) —A heavy rilthed vilvctei'ii. Foulard (Ku-lardi— A soft silk with a tin- diagonal Crash (Crash) —Coarse kitchen toweliiiij-liki' ma- twill or cord. terial, in colors ranging from crru to Inowii. French Hack—The usual thi'ce seamed hack with Cravattc (Cra-vat) —A how or (he like worn al Hie ciiivcd seams terminating at the aiaaholc. neck. Kranch (iather.s—( lathers made with one long stitch Crepe Lisse (Crape-lease) — A rrapc-liiiislic(i silk on the outside and a shoi1 cr one uiulcrneath, or vice fahric. very thin and trans])ai-eiit. versa.

Creponette (Cre-pon-net t — A cri-nklcMl crcpr dr Ki'ench Seam —French seams are scams lirst chine. stitched on the I'ight side of the garment near the Crushed or Drajx-d Relt —A bias pii>ec o1' material edge of the , and then turned to the laid in folds. inside and stitched on the sewing lines, thus hiding Cuir (Queer) —Leather colored. the seams. Cuirass (Queer-ass) —A perfectly plain rhise-littini:' F'ringe—Strands of beads, silk, chenilU\ or the waist. like, fastened to a wide or narr'ow band. P''i-ogs ^Military braid ornaments, generally used Deheifrc ( Day-haysh) —A sol'l wool material -woven — in niixed colors of j;rays and browns. on the fi'ont of waists or coats.

Decollette ( l)ay-col-t ay )—Low-necked. P'ull Back—The l)ack breadths of a skirt gathered Denim (Dc-nini) —A lieavy cotton matei-ial with at the top. a smooth finish on the up])er side. (Ga-loon) or Pasementerie (Pass-a-men- Doeskin (Doe-skin) —A coni])aet twilled woolen, tree) —T?ead, si)angles, braid, etc., dress trimmings. soft and i)lia])le. Gathering (Gath-er-ing) or Gauging (Gorge-ing) — Di-illintc. terial, that the later mav be drawn together oxer the Dresden (Drcs-den) —Pi-intcd tifrnres reseiidilini,' thread. Dresden china. Gautfre (Gof-fray) —Silk material pi-<'ssed into Drop Skirt— A skii't of dress material made separ- forTns or pattern.s. ate from the lining, hut joined in one belt. Gauntlet Cuff (Gaant-let)—Ts shaped like the Dutch Neck—The waist cut scpiare or round two gauntlet on a lading glove, modeled al'tei' tlie an- inches below the throat. cient glo\es of knights. Empiecement (Em-])iece-ment) —A piece set in Gauze (Goiv.e) — A wiry, transparent, \'ery lini' silk where outer material is cut away. iriater'ial. Epaulette (Eh-|)aw-let) —A shoulder trimming to Gigot (.Tig-o) — Tvarge putt" s|ee\'e at top tcnninat- extend o\'er top of sleeve. inu' close below. Etamine (Eh-ta-nieen) —A transparent \\d\-en Girdle (Gir-del)—A shape

Grosgrain (Gro-grain) and Gros do Londrcs (Gro- Slirror (Mir-ror) or iliroir (Mir-o-ar) —Veiy glos- day-Lon-dray) —Finely ribbed silk material. sy mirror effect, easy obtained by ironing over the Guimpe (Gamp) —A loose waist, with yoke and top surface of velvet or satin. sleeves, to be worn with low-necked sleeveless dress Mohair (ilo-hair) —A wiry, finely woven wool waists. material. Habit (Ha-beet) —Pertaining to riding eoustume. Mervellieux (Mer-vel-yay) —An entirely silk satin. Habit iBack Skirt—Is a skirt without the regular Moreen (Mor-een) —A corded, M'iry, mixed ma- inverted plait or any extra fullness at the back. terial, with a watered effect surface. Haircloth—A cloth woven of horse hair one way, Motif (Mo-tif)—Part of a design. from which it takes its name, and cotton or linen Mousselin(^ de Sole (IMus-lin-day-swa) —A trans- threads the other. parent silk, or silk and cotton, with more body than Harlequin (Ilar-la-keen) —Of different colors. chift'on. Hem—A fold, made by twice turning over the edge Nap—The shaggy substance on the surface of of the material, and then sewing it down. cloth, velvet or silk materials. Home Spun—A cloth woven on hand looms or Nacre (Na-eray) —Mother-of-pearl effect. made in imitation of such cloth for both men's and Notte (Nut) —Basket weave. women 's wear. Oriental (0-ri-en-tal), Persian (Per-shan) or In- Imprimie (Im-pri-may) —Printed. dienne (Tn-di-en-na) —Mixed patterns such as are Incrusted or Incrustration—A piece set in. found in Pei'sian shawls, etc. Irridescent (Ir-ri-des-eent) —Changeable rainbow Ottonum (Ot-to-man) —Heavy rep, rib or corded effects. nmterial. Jabot (Sha-bo) —Generally a full gathered lace or Overcasting—Is done by taking loose stitches over the like arranged to fall in shells. the raw edge of material, to keep them from ravel- Jardiniere (Sha-di-nehr) —Color effects resembling ing, the operator working from right to left. a bo

Polonaise (,Pol-oii-nay.s) — Waist and ovorskirt or Stock Collar—A full or draped piece of material tunic cut in one. drawn over a j)lain foundation collar. Pompadour (Pom-pa-dur) —Flowered effects as Stole—Pieces of material worn down each side of worn at the time of Louis XV. the front the same as a Catholic Priest wears over Postillion (Pos-till-yon)—Waist back, with exten- his gown. tion below waist line. Strass—Paste or artilicial diamonds, commonly Princess Wrapper—Waist and skirt jiarts cut in known as rhinestones. one. Slip or Blind Stitch—Invisible stitches. Quadrille (Kwad-rill) —Small scpiare checks. Suede Kid (Swede) —Dull kid, or a skin from (^uilliufj; (Kwill-ing) —Narrow plaited effects. which the gloss has been nd^bed of¥. Kaye (Ra-yea) —Stri])ed, rays. Sun-plaiting—Graduated aceordeon plaiting. Kedingote (Red-ing-otej —An outside gai'inent in Surah (Soo-rah) —A soft silk with a fine diagnoal polonaise style. cord or twill. (Re-veers) Turned l)ack pieces I'orniing a — Swansdowne (Swans-down) —A soft feather fur trimming. the same as used for powder puffs. Ruche (Rooehe) A strii) of material finely i>laiti'd — Taffeta (Ta-fet-ta)—A smooth, thin silk with i|uite or sewed or gathered through the centre. some body to it. Running Stitches Are doiu' by passing the needle — Tabs—Loose hanging pieces. in and out of the matei'ial at regular intervals. Taut (Tort)—Stretch. Sateen (Sa-teen) —A cotton satin finished material (Tex-tile)—A material. Satin de Lyon (Sa-tin-day-Li-yon) —A fine (|uality Tunic (Tu-nie) An overskirt. of silk manufactured at Lyons, France. — \'andyke (Van-dike) Cut in itoints. Scintillaute (Sin-till-yant) or Changeant (Shahn — Velour (Vel-oor) —An extra heavy \'elvet with a shalin) —Changcidile. deep pile. Selvedge (Selv-edge) —A finished edge ol' the ma- terial that cannot unravel. Velveteen (Vel-ve-teen) —A cotton vehet. Serge (Serj) —A wool material with a diagonal Vest—An extra piece or trimming set in the front cord or twill. of a waist or coat. Serge—To overcast. Voile (Voil) —Nuns veiling or a fine wool material. Serpentine (Ser-pen-teen) —Spiral or twisting Volant (Voo-lahn) —A plain gath(>red strip of ma- shape. terial commonly knowTi as . out in the letter form. Sha])ed Belt —A wide belt cut to fit the figure and V-Shaped —Cut V kept in shape with whalelxmes. Warp—The lengthwise running threads of n nui- Shirring (Shii'r-ing) or Gott'ering ((iof-fer-ing) — terial. Is done by making several rows of running stitches Watteau (Wat-to)—A box-plait at the back of a parallel with oiu- another, and the material drawn long garment, caught at the upper i)arf of the waist. together over these. To fall loose below. Sicilian (See-sil-yan) —A wiry glossy silk and woul Whipping—Forming gathei's by over-casting a materials nuudi reseml)ling brilliantine. rolled edge of fine material and drawing uji the Spanish Flounce—A deep gathered lloutice Joined threads. to the edge of a short skirt. Yoke—A s([uare or round piece ol' niatci'ial across

Shoddy—Waste thrown otY in s|iinniiig, slii-eddeil I he chest and shoulders. rags, and hits of cloth nuinipulalcd into new cloth. Zouave (Zoo-of) —A bolero .jacket. Silesia (Se-li.s-ha) —A light close woven, fine Zibeline (Si-ba-leen) —A wool material wifli long twilled-cotton fabric used for dress linings, etc. hairs. .

INDEX

Adjusting Outer Portions of Garment to Linings. 19 Collar, To Correct Errors in 12 After the First Fitting 1-i Collars, How to Make for Fancy Dresses 22 After the Second Fitting lH Collars, How to Make for Tub Dresses and Allowing for Seams (J Stocks 22 Arranging Patterns on Material 5-37 Collars, How to Make Shirt Waist Collar Band 22 Arranging Patterns on StriiK's and Plads 24 Collars, How to Make Sailor Collars 22 Back Stitch 20 Collar, To Fit 12 Basting, as a Stitch 25 Corners, To .Mitre 32 " Uneven as a Stitch 22 Closing Edges. How to Finish 6 Even as a Stitch 25 Cross Stitch, How to Make and Its Uses 16-30 Basting, IIow to Do 7-25 Colors Harmonizing with the Conii)lexioa. Color Basting AYaist Lining Together 7 of Eyes and Hair 35 Basting Sleeve Lining Together 8 Correcting Errors in Sleeves 12 '• " Basting Skirt Lining or Foundation Together. .8-37 ' " Skirts 13-18 " Basting Collars 22 Waists 10-11 " Basting to Draw Out 3(i Lines 36-37 Becoming Lines and Colors (See Lines, Becom- Cutting Out .Matciial 6 ing) 36 Cutting Plaiils and Stripes 24 Belt Inside of Waist, llow to Make and Ad.just. 20 Cutting the System to Use. Facts Concerning. .. 38 Belt or Band on Skirt, llow to .Make and Adjust in-20 Darts in Waists 7-14-21 Bias, to Cut on True 23-31 Darts in Skirts 21 Blind Stitch 28 Definitions and Pronunciations of Technical Boning 16 Terms 38 Boning With Whalelione 16 Drawing 28 Fine 28 How to Bone Waists l(i Drawing. and Apply 32-20 How to Bone Collars. Belts and Girdles 17 Facings, How to ilake 32 Bone Casings to Apply 17 Facings, Shaped Bones, Springing in Casings 17 Facings. Bias 32 Boning Tub Dresses 17 Feather Stitch 30 Boning with Featherbone 17 Feather Boning 17 29 Buttonholes 33 Felling French Fell Seam 16 How to Cut Buttonholes 33 Figure, To Improve 36 To Cut Buttonholes in Materials which Fray. . 33 Fitting. How to Do 9 llow to Work Buttonholes 33 Fitting Collar 12 Various Styles of Buttonholes 34 ' Waist 9-10 Round Edge. Plain. Single Bari-ed Buttonhole. 34 " 13 Double Barred Buttonhole 34 Skirt '• 11-12 Eyelet Buttonhole 34 Sleeve 9-11-13 Pressing Bottonholes 34 Fitting. First Fitting. Second 19 To ]\[ake Imitation Buttonholes 34 Finishings 1 5-25 Buttons. To Sew on 35 Finishing Seams 15 Buttons, Sewing on for Trimming Effects 35 Waist 15 on 35 Buttons, Thread for Sewing Lining Skirt 18 30 Skirt 19-20-21 Chalk for Marking 3 Sleeve and Collar 22 Collar Canvas for First Fitting 9 Darts 7-14-21 Collars, How to Make 22 " Closing Edges 6 44 INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR SEWING AND FITTING COURSE

Folds, How to Cut Make and Apply 23-24 Making and Adjusting Fancy Sections of Gar- Folds, Plain of Silk, Velvet, etc 2:5 ments to Their Respective Linings 19 ' Mitre, How to JMake 32 ' Narrow 23 Mirror 4 " One Over-Ijapi)ing- the Otliei- 23 Needles 3-25 " Milliner's 23

' Needle, How to Hold 25 ' of Crepe 24 Outer Sections of Garments, How to Make and Gathering 27-38 Adjust to Linings 19 Gusset 31 Over-Casting 16-27 llarmouizino; and Becuming Colors 3;") Over-Handing 26 ll.'lpful Facts 37-38 Padding. How to Make and Apply 18 llemmiug 31 " Padding for Waists IS in Textiles 31 Hem Heavy 18 ' Padding for Skirts ' In Thin Fabrics 31 Patterns 5 " With Bound Edge 32 " " Laying of, on Material 5 On Outerside of Garineut 32 ." Pins 3 " In Wash Fabrics 32 Piping, How to Make and Apply 24 " French Fell 32 Piping, How to Make Cord Piping 24 " Narrow Hollow, or Roll 32 " Fold, How to Make 24 " Co'rners of to Turn or ]\ntre 32 Plaids (See Stripes and Plaids) 24 1 looks and Eyes, How to Sew on 6 Placket, How to Make Plain, at Seam Opening. . 20 Irons 3 Placket, In Plain Habit Back 21 Kensington Stitch 30 Under Inverted Plait 21 Knot, How to Make 2.") Under Box Plait 21 Laying Patterns on Material 5-37 " Under Plaited Draperies, etc 21 Loop Stitch 29 In Gathered Skirts 21 Lines, Becoming To Improve the Figure 3(1 " In One Piece Dress 21 Colors, Styles, Lines and Fabrics Suitable for " Opening, Length of 21 the Stout Lady 3fi Pressing Boards 3 Colors, Styles, Lines and Fabrics Suitable for Pressing 15 the Slender Lady 36 Pressing in General 15 Correct Lines for the Short Individual 36 ' " ' Armhole Seams 15 " Tall Individual 36 " " " Hems 15 " " Short Waisted Individual . 36 " Velvets, Silks 15 " " " Long AVaisted Individual. 36 " Pricking 28 " " " ^Vonian with ]\rore Than Preparing Waist Lining for Basting 7 Average; Rotundity 36 Pronunciation of Technical Terms 38 How to Conceal an Abnormally Large Abdomen 37 Running Stitch 26 How to Improve the Lines of the Short Neck Running Back Stitch 26 and Make it Appear Longer 37

Raising the Pile and RencM-ing Crushed Velvets. . 15 How to C'onceal a Large Bust 37 IIoAV to Ini])rove the Lines and ('onceal Large Seams, How to Make Allowance for 6

Hips 37 Seams, How to Baste : 7-8-22-37-38 How to Improve tlie Lines and Conceal Round Waist, How to Baste 7 Shoulders 37 Sleeve, How to Baste 8 How to Improve the Lines for Sloping Shoul- Skirt, How to Baste ^ 8 ders 37 Collar, How to Baste T 22 How to Conceal I'rolruding Shoulders, or Un- Seams, How to Stitch 14-37-38 even Shoulders 37 Stitching Waist Seams 14

' How to Improve and C!onceal Uneven Ilijis. ... 37 ' Sleeve Seams 14

' How to Improve and Conciuil Hollows and De- ' Skirt Seams 14 fects in the Back Just Below the Waist Line 37 Collars 22 Marking Cotton 3 Seam Edges, To Trim 14 .Marking Goods 5 Seams, How to Press 15 .Matching Stripes and Plaids 24 Seams, How to Finish 15 .Machine Stitcliing 31 Seam Binding 15 '' —

45 S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTi: liX PARLORS

Over-casting, Running Stitch, Ovcr-Casting- I'j Over-handing, Stitch, Sergiug. Gathering, Imitation Strap Kiiiisli 1<) Ruimiug Back Sliirriug, Tacking, etc. . .25-26-27-28-20-30-31-32 liapiH'd Spams 1« Plaids 24 French Fell Seam ItJ Stripes and Arrangement of Patterns on 24 Seam Finish for Laees 16 Stripes and Plaids, Cutting of 24 ( 'ross Stitch Finish I'i Matching of 24 '.'inking T; l-J Soams, How and Where to Slash 8 Steaming Velvet 15 Second Fitting 1-) Steaming Seams Open Dress Cutting and ija

' 3(>37 Canvas 4 To Lni)rovi' the Figure, Becoming Ijines ' 14 Haircloth 4 To Draw Out Basting " .-4-37 Tools Necessary 3 Braids and Finishing Materials. . . Edges 14 Shears 3 Trimming Seam Skirt ]\Larker 3 Velvets:— Correct Direction of Pile 37 Skirt Ruler 4 How to Make. 37 Skirt Foundation or Fjiinng. How to Baste 8 To Baste Press 15 Skirt, To Fit 13 To 15 Skirt. Wrinkles Across Fi'ont or Back near To Steam 15 Waist Line 13 To Raise Pile on Crushed Velvets Lining to Prepare for Basting 7 Skirt, Caps or Fullness at Ends of Darts 13 Waist " Falling Toward Front 13 Waist Lining, Basting Together 7 Seams. Stitch 14 " Poke in Front at Bottom 13 Waist To Waist Belt, Inside of 20 Too Tight or Too Lose at Hip Line 13 Fit & " ILirking Waist Line of 13 Waist, How to Errors in: " To Pad 18 Waist, Correcting Wrinkles in ITnderarm Piece 10 " To Finish 18 Crosswise Wrinkles the Last Dai't and TTndcM-arm Slip Stitch 28 Between Piece 10 Sleeve, How to Bast(> Together 8 Wrinkles in Seams 10 Sleeve, How to Fit 11 Wi-inkles at the Waist Line 10 Sleeve, Hanging of 11 Wrinkles at the Back Near the Xeck 10 " Cori-eeting Errors in 12 Wrinkles Extending Downwai-d in Front of " Wrinkles Across Toj) of 12 Shoulder and Armhole 10 " Twisted at Hand 12 Wrinkles Around Xeck Curve 11 Slashing of Seams 8 Waist Drawing to One Side 11 Sponging and Shrinking of Cloth (See Shrinking) 4 Waist Binding Across Bu.st 11

Stoating ^ . 28 Fullness Between Top of Dart and Shoulder. . 11 Stitches :— Drawing or Short From Top of Dart to Shoid- liasting Stitch. Back Stitch, Blind Stitch, der 11 Drawing, Fine Drawing, Cross Stitch, Feath- Waists to Pad 18 er Stitch. Loop Stitch, Kensington Stitch, AVhale Bone 16 Chain Stitch, Hemming, Felling, Pricking, W(n'kroom X^ecessities 3

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