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Instruction Book ... to Be Used Only As a Guide and Partial Study in The TT 518 .V3 Copy 1 INSTRUCTION BOOK With Illustrations To be used only as a Guide and Partial Study in the Expert Course in Dressmaking TAUGHT BY MRS. W. E. VAN AME IN the'' S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL of SARTORIAL ARTS EDITION 1915-lG Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 191o, by Mrs, Emma W. V'an Aine in tlic office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. PUBLISHED BY Mrs. \\'. E. Van Ame, Cleveland, Ohio INSTRUCTION BOOK with Illustrations FOR Sewing and Fitting Course S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL AND PATTERN PARLORS EDITION 191 I Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 191 1, by Mrs. Emma \V. Van Ame, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. PUBLISHED BY MRS. W. E. VAN AME, Mgr. S. T. TAYLOR SCHOOL FORT WAYNE, INDIANA S. T. TAYLOR School of Garment Cutting, Dress Making, % Ladies' Tailoring and Designing ><''o^ PUBLISHERS OF LE BON TON and LE MONITEUR DE LA MODE United The Most Exclusive Magazine Published Established in 1851 announcp:ment FORT WAYNE, IND. We take pleasure in announcing Ihat Mrs. W. E. Van Anie, of 720 Calhoun vStreet, Fort Wayne, Ind., has again been pre- vailed upon, through her past success and the many requests from patrons and jnipils. to extend her slay in Fort Wayne. Therefore, we beg to announce that she will continue to conduct personally and superintend the school for teaching the S. T. TAYLOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING, FITTING, DE- SIGNING, DRESS MAKING and LADIES' TAILORING at the above address for another six months. We can Ihoroughly recommend Mrs. Van Ame as an efficient teacher of our System in training pupils either for businesss or home use. Those desiring to become teachers of our system, or to do independent work, will be specially trained by her to do so. She is also prepared to furnish terms and locations for teachers' agencies upon application. Mrs. Van Ame Tdls orders for pinned paper models, kccjMng on display an elegant line of them. Order for subscriptions to our fashion journal, Lii Hon Ton .\nu Lk MoNiTEUR DE LA MouE I.IniTEd are filled by Mrs. \'an Ame. S. T. TAYLOR CO., Publishers Le Bon Ton and Le Moniteur De La Mode United 1J-15 West _^,4th St., New York ©GI,A4J7170 ((^-,7^1 DEC 13 1915 Workroom Necessities THE TOOLS NECESSARY in the dn'ss-maker's he h;id, at very reasonable prices, in stock sizes, to adjustable. The ad- shop, i)v l'<ii- those who do their own dress-making, individual measurements, or are eomi)aralively few, and the eost very slight. juslalde form can be adjusted to any and all sizes. But sueli as they are, they should be of the best SKIRT MARKER. A good and practical skirt (luality and kept in good repair, otherwise one can- nuirker is another great time and labor saver, as the not expect to get the best results. bottom of a skirt can be perfectly marked in two There is one thing never to be despised in any minutes with the proper skirt marker. But with work room, and that is, a good, accurate and re- tliis, as with all other dress-making conveniences, do lial)le pattern or system of dress-cutting. When Ihis not l)e inveigled into purchasing something which is is not at hand, see to it that yon have good patterns not |iractical. to the individual measurement, madt' l)y some re- liable pattern company. PRESSING BOARDS. One good flat pressing TABLES FOR CUTTING AND BASTING. A lioard. Ou'^ curved ])ressing board. And one roll. good sized even table for cutting and liasting large ,\ padded bi-nom Imndle makes an e.\eellent roll for pieces. A table covered with cotton duck or can- pi'cssing use. vas will prevent the goods from slipping when cut- IRONS. Two good irons for pressing. One ting out. A table covered with inlaid linoleum is shouhl weigh from 5 to 7 lb.s., for pressing seams, bj' far ])referable for tracing upon. The worker 'i'he other from 8 to 14 lbs., for pressing the bottom may sit, when liandliug smaller iiarls, using an ad- of skirts, coats, etc. justal)le tab! • l:i|i lioard. NEEDLES—THREAD. Only the best quality of SHEARS. A pair of good quality beut handle needles should be employed. Before using, always shrais aliout 10 inches long for cutting purposes. test a needle to make sure of a sharp point. Never The large opening is for the fingers and the small use a needle which is blunt on the point, or which is for the thumb. The advantage of the lient shears lias become bent. Employ Nos. 5 to 7 for ordinary is, that the.v lay closer to the table, raising the ma- w(n-k and 8 to 10 for fine hemmming and shirring. terial but very little from the cutting surface and prevent any slipping of the under material. A pair Foi- thread 20, 24 and 30, use No. 5 needle. of plain scissors, which must be in perfect condi- Thread 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle. tion, sharp and even blades, and not joined loo tight- Thread 50 and 60, use No. 7 needle. ly, are to lie nsed for all light work, sucli as cutting Thread 70 and 80, use No. 8 needle. off threads, slashing of seams, etc., etc., wliei'e the Thread 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle. large ones would be too heavy. Thread over 100. iise No. 10 needle. TRACING WHEELS A best quality steel tracing The size of the thread to be used depends upon wheel witii deep shar]) points, is quite essential for tiii> quality of the work. Never use other than a marking purposes. good quality, snuio'th thread. CHALK, MARKING COTTON. TRACING PINS. Avoid using an infei'ior (]uality of pins, CLOTH, ilcsiih's the tracing wlieel, it is necessary as they will leave an obvious hole on removing them, to keep (in liand, for nuu-king purposes, white, pink and besides will not penetrate the material smoothly. and blue tailors' chalk, several colors of thread For pinning silks, velvets and daint.y fabrics use called mai'king cotton. Also a sheet of tracing fine needles, as they leave no mark after being re- cloth will be found a great convenience as well as a moved. time and labor saver. SEWING MACHINE. The sewing ma.'hine DRESS FORM. A good dress form or draping should receive much consideration. Always keeji it stand is a most desirable adjunct. 'I'hese forms can in good working order, with a perfect stitch. INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR SEWING AND FITTING COURSE TAPE MEASURE. The tnpe measure should be rule and a perfect tailors' square should find a of stroniT liiKU and tested as to aceuraey. An in- plaee in every work room. tape measure ^vill eause mueh trouble and ai'curate MIRROR. The fitting mirror should be sufficient- niauy mistakes. 1\ huge to reflect a view of the figui-e from the crown of the head to the tips of the shoes. THIMBLE. The thimble must be good fitting. toil small and is to be worn ou Xcilhcr large nor too SEWING CHAIR. The seAving chair should be the seeond finger of the right hand. free from arms. It should be low to avoid the use SKIRT RULE AND SQUARE. A 4S-ineh skirt of foot stools. Sponging and Shrinking Great care and attention should be directed to- ably dry, but if it is thick and heavy, do not wring ward the careful shrinking of all Avoolens and linens mueh. Spread the goods out smooth on a long table and such weaves and materials as are inclined to with the right sides folded in. then lay the wet shrink when coming in contact with dampness. For cloth on it. straightening out all wrinkles. The end if this part of the work is not properly done much of tiie wet cloth should extend two or three feet trouble results later on in the construction and be- beyond the goods. Take a board as long as the sides there is the risk of the garment losing its goods is wide folded, and about ten inches wide shape, should it be worn on a damp day or be and roll the goods on it, first wrapping the end of caught in the rain. the wet cloth around it. Care must be taken that Different materials should be treated according folds or plaits are not prevalent when rolling up the to their various needs. Remove all selvedges before material, as they will be quite difficult to remove putting the cloth to the process of shrinking. when they are once in. Leave the material on the board from 2 to 4 hours according to the thickness BROADCLOTH must be shrunk by steam. On a of it, as it must be thoroughly dampened all the way well ]>a(lded talde. the larger the better, spread through, after which it should be pressed until it is over two thicknesses of the broadcloth and this lay dry. Use irons that are only moderatelj' hot, for a thick cotton cloth that is quite wet. With a rather the shrinking yaW be more complete if the pressing hot iron, press this wet cloth, forcing the steam is done slowly. This process of shrinking uuist down and through the broadcloth, and continue this never be used for materials with a glossy finish.
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