THE www.perfumesociety.org

NO.scented 44 AUTUMN 2020 LETTER SUSTAINABILITY inclusivity+ + SCENT SHOPPING’S ‘NEW NORMAL’

(Beyond) fashion & fragrance

editor’s LETTER

This is the issue in which, each year, we like to focus on the enduringly close relationship between fashion and fragrance. But while that remains incredibly important – and this season heralds launches from all the big names – there are shifts in the perfume world that we felt it was important to reflect on, in these extraordinary times.

The world around us is changing – so fragrance is changing, too. Because, of course, the scented world is a microcosm, even a mirror of what’s going on in the wider world. So in this edition of The Scented Letter, we’re tackling some really big subjects. We focus on sustainability, in Viola Levy’s feature ‘Scents & Sustainability’; it’s not always shouted from the rooftops, but actually, the fragrance world has a very positive story to tell, when it comes to sustainable sourcing and (increasingly) recycling – as Viola explores, on p.22.

Another buzzword, all around, is ‘inclusivity’. Nobody can have escaped 2020’s axis shift, here. The impact of Black Lives Matter is still rippling around the globe. It is fair to say that on this front, the fragrance world still doesn’t have the most positive story to tell, in terms of inclusivity and diversity. Not enough people of African or Indian or Chinese heritage, either in advertising or being given opportunities in the industry. Not enough mature ‘faces’ for new fragrance launches, yet. But we asked Persolaise to report on this very important subject – and while his article on p.13 acknowledges there’s still a problem, he reports on encouraging steps forward.

Shopping for perfume is certainly different, for the moment. Intrepid reporter Amanda Carr – winner of this year’s Jasmine Literary Award – is always up for a challenge, however, so we asked her to don her mask and venture forth to report back from retail’s front line on the reality of ‘Scent Shopping in the New Normal’, on p.40. The good news? It feels safe. It’s exciting. It’s just a little different – and alongside the more traditional shopportunities in stores, Amanda reveals that we can look forward to exciting, dynamic ways to discover, explore and enjoy fragrance, in future.

Unsurprisingly, COVID-19 has also impacted on the scents we want to wear. We’ve seen two trends, at The Perfume Society: individuals who want to wear intimate, cocooning fragrances that make them feel safe and comforted. And others, who are all but reviving the 80s fashion for ‘room- rockers’ – this time, worn almost as a warning: ‘Don’t Stand So Close to Me.’ Suzy Nightingale’s brilliant feature on p.30 looks at these two polar perfume opposites – and shares beautiful examples of both the understated and the bold.

There’s an old Chinese proverb: ‘May you live in interesting times.’ We hope you enjoy reading about the ways in which the fragrant world that we all love is being impacted, by the certainly very ‘interesting’ 2020...

www.perfumesociety.org The Perfume Society @Perfume_Society ThePerfumeSociety

THE scented LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS

scentedTHE LETTER

Nafia Guljar Persolaise Nafia is a cancer research scientist and A multi-award-winning perfume critic self-taught illustrator from London who and author of the Le Snob Perfume EDITOR explores fragrances through mixed guide, Persolaise has also written Josephine Fairley media illustrations and watercolour. for Sunday Times Style, Business [email protected] She has been commissioned to Traveller, Grazia and Sight & Sound, illustrate projects for Tauer Perfumes, among others. He recently took part DESIGNER Jenny Semple FL Parfums, Maison Incens, in an extended series on BBC Radio enquiries@jenny CaFleureBon and Aspects Beauty. 4’s Film Programme about ‘reading’ sempledesign.co.uk Nafia can also be found wandering movies through the scents they might around art galleries or meeting up with conjure. His YouTube videos (including ADVERTISING other fragrance enthusiasts to explore ‘Love at First Scent’ unveilings) are MANAGER Lorna McKay all the fragrant wares London has to becoming hugely popular. Follow him [email protected] offer. Her illustrations can be found on Instagram @persolaise and read his over on Instagram @anillustratednose reviews on persolaise.blogspot.com SENIOR WRITER Suzy Nightingale [email protected]

MARKETING/BRAND RELATIONSHIPS Victoria Evans [email protected]

BUYING/EVENTS & SOCIAL MEDIA Hettie Jones [email protected]

EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Georgia Wellard [email protected] Amanda Carr Viola Levy Amanda Carr is a retail trend Viola is an award-winning beauty CONTRIBUTING EDITOR forecaster, Jasmine Award-winning journalist, copywriter and consultant. Maggie Alderson freelance journalist and co-founder She began her career selling of the influential blog The Women’s perfumes as a Saturday girl in her CONTACT US Room. Having long been a fragrance local chemist (managing to spray a [email protected] c/o 106 High Street fan and chief reviewer for The few customers in the eye), later Hastings Women’s Room, she set up the discovering she was better at writing East Sussex TN34 3ES perfume site We Wear Perfume about fragrances than gift-wrapping 07748-653288 in 2015, to help people find stylish them. Last year she won the new fragrances by asking real people Fragrance Foundation Jasmine The Scented Letter is a what they wore. Amanda is London- Award for Best Short Piece, reporting free online/downloadable based and can be found hanging on how urban life is damaging our magazine for subscribers to The Perfume Society about most days on Instagram as sense of smell. Follow her @wewearperfume @scentsandthecitylondon

The Scented Letter is produced for The Perfume Society by Perfume Discovery Ltd. All information and prices are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication. © 2020 The Perfume Society. All text, graphics and illustrations in The Scented Letter are protected by UK and International Copyright Laws, and may not be copied, reprinted, published, translated, hosted or otherwise distributed by any means without explicit permission.

4 THE scented LETTER contents

13 22 awareness, positivity, action perfume, people, planet THE CHANGING FACE SCENTS & OF FRAGRANCE SUSTAINABILITY Persolaise looks at diversity and With the environment on everyone’s inclusivity – and asks whether our minds, Viola Levy asks: how is industry is changing fast enough fragrance rising to the eco-challenge?

PERFUME’S POLARISATION DON’T STAND SO CLOSE TO ME In these continuing strange days, people have turned to fragrance more than ever – but will social distancing change the way we wear scent? Senior Writer, SUZY NIGHTINGALE, peels back the mask to explore personal space and post-pandemic perfumes 30 THE scented LETTER 31 36 perfume’s polarisation a manifesto for change DON’T STAND SO MAVERICK AND CLOSE TO ME MAGICIAN Suzy Nightingale explores personal Jo Fairley talks to Christophe space and pandemic perfumes, Laudamiel, perfumer and author of a focusing on two very different trends controversial fragrance manifesto

40 46 let’s spritz again an aromatic life SCENT SHOPPING IN MEMORIES, DREAMS, THE NEW NORMAL REFLECTIONS The intrepid Amanda Carr ventures Former French Vogue editor turned out to report from the retail front on fragrance entrepreneur Carine perfume purchasing, mid-COVID Roitfeld shares her scent memories

regulars EDITOR’S LETTER 3 NOSING AROUND 6 LATEST LAUNCHES 48 IT TAKES ME RIGHT BACK 62

THE scented LETTER 5 ON THE SCENT OF NEWS nosing around Wildflower-powered skincare, heavenly handcare, stunning home scents – and exciting new retail destinations to tempt you back into perfume’s ‘real world’

TREATS IN STORE

WE hope you’ll be inspired after reading Amanda Carr’s ‘Scent Shopping in the New Normal’ (p.40) to venture out for perfumed pilgrimages, once again. Harrods’s first H Beauty store (right) at Thurrock Lakeside is the first of several planned, showcasing many fab scent brands – and we have to admit a keenness for any beauty hall with its own Champagne Bar.

And if you’ve not yet experienced the perfume paradise that is The Fragrance Room at Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge (left and below), get set to be wowed. Bigger, better, bolder than ever before – DOUBLE the size it was – the new scent space features over 100 fragrance houses, with in-store boutiques from Creed, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Serge Lutens, Kilian and many UK niche exclusives. We’re dusting off the debit cards.

H Beauty Unit 116, Intu Lakeside Shopping Centre, West Thurrock, Grays, Essex, RM20 2ZP Harvey Nichols 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ

6 THE scented LETTER +

Bigger and bolder Yes, BIG news from Floral Street, who’ve super-sized their scents with the launch of 100ml bottles, joining travel-friendly 10ml and regular 50ml sizes, all adorned with photographer Matthew Donaldson’s brazen flower images. Spritz with abandon £98 for 100ml floralstreet.com

2020 is the year of nature… … and aren’t we all looking to introduce it to our lives, however we can…? Seilich is the first Wildlife Friendly® certified EAUX, YES! company in the U.K. – using ingredients Didn’t we all get to ace grown and harvested in their Scottish home hairdressing, during wildflower meadow, and a traditional copper #lockdown? We’re keeping still to extract essential oils and floral waters. up the good work with Percy & Meanwhile, Rhug Estate Wild Beauty is a luxury Reed’s gloriously floral-swagged skincare line inspired by the landscape of an idyllic part Eau My Goodness Collection, scented of North Wales, with COSMOS Organic certification from The by rose petals, peonies and a woody Soil Association. Beautiful textures, calming natural smells – and another way amber base with rhubarb twist. It’s like to bring the outdoors into your beauty routine. you’ve been for a quick dew-sprinkled Seilich from £24-60 seilich.co.uk roll in the garden (but with much Rhug Estate Wild Beauty from £24-120 rhugwildbeauty.com better hair!) £35 percyandreed.com

SMELL ME AT THE MUSEUM

Perfumer Caroline Sabas created a 1950s-style fragrance named Pink Jungle to scent the exhibition space of the new Makeup Museum in New York. Emily Bond, head of Fine Fragrance North America at Givaudan, explains they’re making this a multi-sensory space because ‘Perfume has always been an integral part of beauty.’ Exiting via the gift shop has never been more enticing. 94 Gansevoort St, New York, NY 10014, USA makeupmuseum.com

THE scented LETTER 7 ON THE SCENT OF NEWS Home, sweet-scented home With many of us still #WFH, we want it to smell wonderful. Unsurprisingly, home fragrance is booming – but here’s a round-up of some of our favourite innovations

The graphic vessels for Nomad Noé candles deserve to be upcycled as make-up or pen holders after these candles have flickered their last. Created in the perfume capital of Grasse, they whisk us around the world via seven scents and seven nomadic ‘types’. Whether you’re feeling VISIONARY or more like a REBEL, worth sniffing out at Selfridges, where they’ve landed. £55 selfridges.com

We’re spoiled for choice with the new Jo Malone London Townhouse Candle Collection: six scents in elegant ceramic pots which are different for each creation – spanning summery Fresh Fig & Cassis (pictured here) to seasonally-perfect Glowing Embers. £90 each jomalone.co.uk

Just launched at London’s fashion mecca Browns, Saint Fragrance London seek to improve your Inspired by a legendary Irish love A welcome shaft of sunlight for the emotional state via six scented story that spanned a thousand greyer days from Floral Street: their candles. Snuggle up with the milky years, the Cloon Keen Étaín candle Sunshine Bloom scented candle musk of Sunday Papers, sigh into the flickers beguilingly with fleshy keeps the summer vibe alive with spicy saffron/leather of Old Fashioned, tuberose and narcotic Egyptian notes of jasmine, fig leaf, wild or evoke a bohemian sunset with jasmine absolute on a smouldering orchid, black pepper, incense and coconut, tuberose and cardamom in amber-infused base of loamy salted musks, a vibrant solar scent Balearic Isle. patchouli and Virginian cedarwood. that sparkles and recalibrates. £42 for 200g brownsfashion.com £40 for 280g lessenteurs.com £28 floralstreet.com

8 THE scented LETTER +

SCENTED SNIFFS An elegant solution to not being able to smell scented candles online, 7 Over 7 are offering free fragrant wax seals, to ‘help bridge the sense-deprivation gap.’ Request your complimentary samples, ‘to experience the candle scents before committing to buy.’ live7over7.com Meanwhile La Montaña have put together a collection showcasing their When in Rome… nine Scents of Spain candles via sample vials to spray into the air or onto … do, do, DO visit the stunning new Acqua di Parma boutique, in the famous fabrics. Let no cushion go un-spritzed. Piazza di Spagna, where you’ll find in-store barber services, onyx counters, La Montaña Home Fragrance custom engraving, a special 300-piece Colonia Special Edition Rome and an Discovery Set/£25 lamontana.co.uk atmosphere that’s even more warm in its Italian welcome, after the trials and tribulations of the past few months. (But then, Rome’s used to those…) Piazza di Spagna, 27, 00187 Rome, Italy

Feeling Gloved-up Tom Daxon has unveiled the most stunning handcare duo, in the form of Gloved – ‘hand care with heart’ – that is gentle but effective, all- natural, vegan, pH balanced and (this matters to us!) infused with a HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, grounding cedarwood-y scent. The finishing eco-touch: bottles and caps FRÉDÉRIC are recyclable, and the pumps can be The man who changed the used time and again (you’ll save £1 SUSTAINABILITY whole direction of fragrance – on every bottle you buy without one). WITH STYLE by putting perfumers’ names Active-Hydrate Hand Wash/£20 Taking inspiration from 18th Century on the front of his bottles – is for 375ml Instant-Absorb Hand perfume fountains and antique celebrating two decades since Lotion/£28 for 376ml gloved.co.uk fragrance flaçons, Potion Paris have he first launched his ground- created a sculpted amulet to be worn breaking perfume house. on a necklace or as a bag charm. Slip We’ll be celebrating by taking any of seven vials inside for on-the- a sensorial journey through go spritzing – and when you post 10 Éditions de Parfums Frédéric empty refills back, they’ll send you Malle: The First Twenty Years back two, on the house. (Rizzoli New York) – a must-read The Collection Set/£79.99 book for any perfumista. The Iconic Vial/£29.99 £57.50 fredericmalle.com potionparis.com

THE scented LETTER 9 THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS 2020

This year’s Fragrance Foundation Awards and The Jasmine Awards were (like many events) banjaxed by the pandemic, taking place online. But we congratulate all this year’s winners (and look forward to dusting off our sequins in 2021)

BEST NEW FRAGRANCE BEST NEW FRAGRANCE READERS’ CHOICE ★(MEN) (WOMEN)★ & ULTIMATE LAUNCH Chanel★ Gabrielle Le Labo Baie 19 Yves Saint Laurent Libre Essense Eau de Parfum

BEST NEW FRAGRANCE IN BEST NEW FRAGRANCE IN PEOPLE’S CHOICE LIMITED★ DISTRIBUTION LIMITED★ DISTRIBUTION (VOTED FOR (MEN) (WOMEN) ON★ BOOTS.COM) Armani Privé Floral Street Dior Joy Orangerie Venise Electric Rhubarb Eau de Parfum Intense

BEST NEW INDEPENDENT INNOVATION AWARD FRAGRANCE PARFUM EXTRAORDINAIRE Lancôme ★ ★ Floris Vert Fougère Marc-Antoine★ Barras Idôle Eau de Parfum Paris Ganymede

10 THE scented LETTER THE JASMINE RETAILER OF THE YEAR AWARDS Harrods ★ We were delighted to be shortlisted in several categories – but though we didn’t walk away with a Lalique statuette in 2020, we’re utterly thrilled that several of our contributors and friends did so well, in the final winners’ line- up. Congrats to all…

CREATIVITY BEST NEWCOMER HARVEY★ NICHOLS ‘In Sous Le Manteau the Air’ collaboration ★ with RAKESPROGRESS Rakessense

ONLINE RETAILER OF THE YEAR Harrods★ & The Perfume Shop

BEST NEW INTERIOR FRAGRANCE ★ Cire Trudon Ernesto LITERARY PIECE AMANDA CARR in Rakesprogress for ‘Fragrant New World’ BEST NEW DESIGN & PACKAGING Gucci The Luxury Collection: The Alchemist’s Garden PRACTICAL GUIDE ★ ALICE DU PARCQ in Glamour Magazine for ‘Message in Bottle’

RISING STAR SOPHIE ELKAN in OX Magazine for ‘The Scents of Britain: Penhaligons’

SHORT PIECE FIONA EMBLETON on marieclaire.co.uk ‘Cancer Stole My Mother’s Scent’ Read all the Jasmine Award-winning entries on perfumesociety.org – type ‘Jasmine Awards 2020’ in our SEARCH box

THE scented LETTER 11 VINES HOUSE PARFUM FINE FRAGRANCE WEAR - LOVE - REPEAT FIND THE RIGHT PERFUME STORY

With every original order you receive a FREE 2ml TRIAL spray to sample BEFORE opening your perfume box.

After trial use if you decide the perfume is not for you, simply return your UNOPENED bottle in the ribbon SEALED wooden box to us. Try another!

*One free trial sample per fragrance per customer.

10% DISCOUNT CODE PSV1 VHPARFUM.COM AWARENESS. POSITIVITY. ACTION

Perfume has always been a mirror of everything happening in the wider world. But there’s some way to go in terms of diversity and inclusivity, writes PERSOLAISE CHANGING THE FACE OF FRAGRANCE AWARENESS. POSITIVITY. ACTION.

MAY WELL BE the hardest balanced and as comprehensive a industry? Does your brand/company THIS perfume article I’ve ever picture of the subject as the word see it as a problem that needs to be had to write. I knew the assignment count will allow. addressed? If so, what steps have you would be tough as soon as I agreed to Normally, the number of replies I taken to address it, etc. etc. All fairly take it on: after all, the issue of diversity receive from the industry is extremely standard stuff. is complex and multi-layered, sure to healthy. I get a flood of insights and I fired off the emails. stir emotions and spark extreme views. quotes from people more than happy And – with just a few exceptions But I had no idea quite how challenging – the response I got was a great big the job would turn out to be. nothing. Here’s a brief insight into how I work So as you’d expect, I sent off on pieces like this, which probably isn’t several chasing messages. ‘I was just dissimilar to how other journalists go Our world is now full wondering if you got my last email. It about it. I have an initial think about the would be great to hear from you on issue at hand – consider my own ideas, “ this important topic etc. etc.’ of people who are of see if I can express them in a coherent And then quite a few more replies form. I start doing some research – mixed race and mixed started coming in – but almost all of reading around the subject, finding out them with the proviso that they were to what others have had to say about it. culture. Their stories be treated as strictly ‘off the record’. And then I reach out to my network of are more interesting People certainly had a few things industry contacts to ask them for their to say on this subject. Plenty to say, views on the matter, and find out where than anything to me in fact! But in a huge number of their brands and companies stand on cases – certainly many more than I’ve the issue in question. This last step is DANA EL MASRI experienced when writing an article crucial, because it adds weight and before – they didn’t want their views to legitimacy to the work. You need to be directly attributed to them. support an argument with statements The reason? from experts and industry insiders, to be mentioned in the final article. I Well, most commonly, it was fear. because otherwise all you end up expected a similar” outcome this time. Fear of saying the wrong thing, in an writing is a personal opinion piece. I went through my usual procedure, environment where Call-Out Culture is When I get the responses, I try to putting together a first set of waiting to pounce on the slightest mis- find a clear path through them and questions. What are your views on step. Fear of being accused of jumping formulate an article that presents as the issue of diversity in the perfume on a bandwagon. Fear of being told

14 THE scented LETTER that the work they’re doing is hollow and tokenistic. For a few other brands, the reason stemmed from a sort of humility. Yes, diversity is extremely important to them, and yes they’re doing what they can to make the scope of their operations more inclusive – perhaps by employing people from ethnic minority backgrounds or people with disabilities – but they don’t wish to draw attention to such activities. They prefer just to get on with it quietly, and not make any statements that would seem to be fishing for praise or kudos. That, in itself, tells us much of what we need to know about how diversity is perceived and tackled in the west’s perfume industry. It’s the hot potato that can’t be avoided, but which few people want to pick up. Because of the impact of movements like #MeToo and Black Lives Matter, and the wider questioning of societal norms, it has made its way into the fragrance world, and many are now uncertain about how Angelica Huston, to deal with it. So they’d rather stay Susie Cave and quiet, and perhaps allow others to be Jodie Turner-Smith the first to raise their heads above feature in Gucci’s the parapet. latest ad campaign It’s a shame, because if we accept for Bloom, bottom left that no system is perfect, that we can’t expect radical transformations to take place within a day and that change is an ongoing process, then I’d say that the perfume industry has much to be proud of, in all aspects of its operations. All you need to do is compare glossy magazines from today with those from twenty or so years ago to see evidence of this. We now have a far more diverse range of faces and bodies in advertisements. We have articles taking the time to reach out to people with all sorts of differing life experiences. We have products that try to cater to disparate cultural tastes. Yes, of course, much work remains to be done – just Google ‘John Boyega Jo Malone’ – but the progress is undeniable. Here are some specifics. The latest Gucci perfume campaign features one actress – the preternaturally elegant Anjelica Houston – who would almost certainly have been considered too old for such an assignment a few years

THE scented LETTER 15 AWARENESS. POSITIVITY. ACTION

Singer- songwriter and actor Lenny Kravitz, the new ambassador for YSL’s Y Eau de Parfum

24 THE scented LETTER ago. (Her campaign-mates include 54-year-old Susie Cave and black model Jodie Turner-Smith.) Very recently, The World of Chris Collins became the first scent brand owned by a black person to be stocked at Bergdorf Goodman. Multi- national ingredient manufacturers and training providers, including Givaudan and ISIPCA, are making efforts to draw talent from a wider pool of people, and to pour the benefits of their work back into the communities from which they draw resources. YSL’s latest ‘face’ is Lenny Kravitz (yes, he’s one of the hippest guys on the planet, but it’s a bold choice, as well as a brilliant one). You need more examples? How about these. Avon recently launched a perfume to provide public support for

Above: perfume brand founder Chris Collins. Left: a ‘face’ of Avon’s HerStrory. Below: Perfumers of Kristen Stewart, “ chosen to front the colour are very Chanel Gabrielle rarely given a campaign

platform — they ensuring that those in the initial stages of perfume production – quite often are out there, the individuals and communities who but they are not benefit the least from sales at high street stores – reap greater rewards for often visible their efforts. Change is unquestionably taking MAYA NJIE place. Yet many people still seem reluctant to talk about it. But what of those who did write back to me? What did they have to Changing Faces, a charity founded to say on this contentious issue? Well, support people ”with ‘a scar, mark or thankfully, they were pretty vocal. condition on their face or body that Simon Constantine, formerly at makes them look different.’ Chanel Lush and now founder of Ånd, is clear made the decision to use bisexual about the extent of the problems in the actress Kristen Stewart as the face industry. ‘Perfumery is just racist, isn’t of their Gabrielle scent. And the it?’, he says. ‘How many big African fragrance brand Sana Jardin, which schools of perfumery are there? Where has aimed to redress social imbalances do most perfumers live versus the since its inception, recently announced origin of their materials? If we look a mentoring programme designed to through the old masters of perfumery, support innovative start-ups; first on how many aren’t white men? Perfumery their books is A Complexion Company, is steeped in the same problems that an African wellness and beauty brand the rest of western society shares, and created by Nomshado Michelle Baca. there isn’t much point trying to deny it.’ Indeed, with ‘Beyond Sustainability’ He hopes his new brand will go as their motto, Sana Jardin have set some way to helping the situation. themselves the challenging task of ‘We want to prove that it’s possible

THE scented LETTER 17 AWARENESS. POSITIVITY. ACTION.

to design our lives so that they are the coronavirus pandemic due to a work with our partners to distribute empowering and regenerative. complete disregard by the Brazilian our profits more equitably, and involve Just making a few jobs available for state for the impact on them of them in our decision-making.’ people of colour in cosy marketing COVID-19. It ripped through their Constantine is well aware that he departments is lovely, but to truly villages with the same ferocity of the could be seen as yet another white shake up the world, we need to colonial plagues of old. So if we are European man, travelling around the take the resources of the profitable to build ourselves a new world that world, ‘doing good’. ‘I have been marketplace and push those benefits addresses true inequity, we have to called out several times for white back to those who receive the least.’ break cycles like these that began 500 saviour-ism, and I think that’s fair ‘The Kayapo of the Brazilian years ago. We have donated our first enough. For me, I have made peace Amazon, who supply much of the sales in total to support the Kayapo. with the fact that it’s there, and I try to world’s tonka beans, had to race But it can’t stop there. Our plan is to answer with a positive response, not a back to their communities ahead of reach commercial stability and then brick wall of cancel culture. I have tried

We now have a far “more diverse range of faces and bodies in adverts. We have articles reaching out to people with all sorts of differing life experiences”

The models for Avon’s HerStory, which sets out to raise the profile of the charity Changing Faces

18 THE scented LETTER to take two forms of action where I can to driving ideas on how to make real real opportunity to take them on the spot my privilege. One, I try to use that and positive changes in the way we journey with us. We listened to their privilege for good, listening to criticism work together. When we introduced thoughts and opinions, while also but not allowing it to cause inaction. our Geranium Nefertum fragrance informing them on the subjects that are Two, I try to dispose of the privilege in 2019, we worked with British GQ closely connected to our core values.’ or offer to share it with others, finding and three young artists — singer- Few would doubt that all of the ways to remedy where it arose.’ songwriter George Shelley, performer above are commendable steps. And Molton Brown appear to have taken Travis Alabanza and drag queen yet, always hovering in the background, a similarly pro-active approach. Their Jacob Mallinson Bird — to kick off there’s a sense of frustration that such global vice-president of marketing, conversations about gender expression actions somehow continue to reinforce Beatrice Descorps, says they’ve and identity. Some of our customers the divisions between people. That’s ‘recently created an Inclusivity & were surprised by the direction of the the paradox that lies at the heart of this Diversity committee purely dedicated campaign. But this provided us with a entire issue: you can’t provide help

THE scented LETTER 25 AWARENESS. POSITIVITY. ACTION

Jacob Mallinson Bird, in Molton Brown’s campaign for Geranium Nefertum

to certain groups of people without in our industry, dedicated to uplifting defining them as a distinct group... under-represented BIPOC members of and as soon as you define them as a the fragrance community,’ she says. distinct group, you’re implicitly Perfumery is For Dana, as for Salmon, sensitivity setting them apart from the very “ is key. ‘I was once asked to recreate ‘mainstream’ into which you’d love steeped in the same scents found in Mohawk culture in them to be integrated. Canada. So I asked who the scent What’s more, as several individuals problems that the is being made for and why. What were at pains to point out to me, rest of western kind of research had been done on defining people within groups is the traditional use of materials? Was becoming increasingly difficult, society shares, and anyone from the culture involved because the realities of modern life in the project? Most importantly, mean that we don’t slot into categories there isn’t much considering the blatant disrespect and quite as neatly as perhaps we did a few mistreatment of Native people and decades ago. point trying to their communities, would they benefit Dana El-Masri is a prime example. deny it from the project in any way? These are She’s of Egyptian-Lebanese ethnicity. important things to think about.’ She spent many years of her life in SIMON CONSTANTINE Awareness. Positivity. And definite Dubai. She trained as a perfumer in action. From my many ‘off the record’ Grasse. And she’s currently based in conversations on this issue, I’d say Canada, where she founded her well- these are the three main factors on regarded brand, Jazmin Saraï. which brands should focus, and in ‘Our world is now full of people of ” which we should find hope for the mixed race and mixed culture,’ she future. And I firmly believe that we says. ‘Their stories are more interesting have every reason to be hopeful, than anything to me, because they thanks to the efforts of people like can shift perspective, and have the Constantine, El Masri and Salmon. privilege of being able to experience I just wish that we’ll soon get to different colours, smells, languages, the point where more people will be and find a way to blend these worlds, willing to discuss all these issues, to all of which inform our art.’ the extent that we simply won’t need One of El-Masri’s latest projects has to discuss them any more, because been to create Future Olfactives with they’ll have become non-issues. As the perfumer Yosh Han. ‘It’s a collective El Masri says, ‘We don’t need to stay working towards further diversity, within the parameters the industry has accurate representation and inclusion given us. It is time to evolve.’

20 THE scented LETTER MIXING IT UP

her perfumery qualifications through the Grasse Institute Of Perfumery. She says: ‘The west often makes many assumptions about the east. There are just a handful of international brands who have taken the trouble to understand the cultural nuances of the Gulf and have tried doing ad campaigns targeting a Gulf audience.’

ÅND Recently set-up by Simon Constantine, formerly of Lush and Gorilla Perfume, this brand aims to address some of the injustices inherent in the industry. ‘I see nothing but positivity from the MAYA NJIE opportunities diversity brings. I think see the same thing. Beauty has been UK-based, part-Swedish, part-Gambian there is a strong, vocal component of defined by standards we mostly see Njie set up her eponymous brand four on our phones and in ads, but that years ago, creating scents inspired by doesn’t mean this is our reality. They her heritage. ‘As a woman of colour, don’t reflect who we are.’ it’s important for me to support other women of colour where I can. I hope DANA EL MASRI that companies open their eyes to how Grasse-trained, Canada-based El Masri they play their part and what they can brings her multi-cultural heritage to do to be more inclusive. Perfumers of the fore in her brand, Jazmin Saraï. ‘I colour are very rarely given a platform believe my background was a barrier – they are out there, but they are not at times — at other times, I was often visible.’ tokenised. I often felt overlooked because I didn’t fit certain criteria, MARYAM AJMAL I wasn’t related to anyone in the The family-run brand Ajmal has been field. I dealt with many things that amongst the most successful and men just wouldn’t. I felt the need to beloved scent creators in the Middle “legitimise”and get proper training if East and India for several decades. I wanted to become a perfumer. I felt One of the youngest members of the I had something to prove so people dynasty, Maryam, is currently obtaining customers now that is refusing would take me seriously.’ to allow this conversation to be muffled, and brands are frightened, so I think now is the time to seize on the momentum and make real change. It’s a big journey and we don’t plan to be alone in it. Come help us unstink the world!’

REEM MUTHANNA Partly trained by Julien Rasquinet of IFF, this young perfumer is now based at the extremely popular Saudi brand, Almusbah, which targets both those living in the country as well as tourists. ‘With social media and the internet, I feel we’re living in one big

world. There are no boundaries. We © AHMAD NASER ELDEIN

THE scented LETTER 21 PERFUME FOR PLANET AND PEOPLE

scentsSUSTAINABILITY &With consumers thinking more and more about the impact of all their purchasing decisions, VIOLA LEVY looks at how the fragrance world is embracing a future in which people, planet and perfume matter equally

THERE’S A SNOOTY yet common – in a way that doesn’t always make misconception that those who tend to for easy reading. According to Zero be more interested in the outwardly Waste Week, more than 120 billion superficial world of beauty products units of packaging are produced every – including fragrance – perhaps don’t year by the global beauty industry, appreciate or value the unadorned with the cardboard alone contributing beauty of the natural world itself. to loss of 18 million acres of forest But in my experience, this couldn’t annually. Then there’s the plastic be further from the truth. Indeed, wrapping, which forms part of the nature may have inspired your new eight billion tonnes of plastic that gets favourite fragrance find, because while dumped into the oceans each year, you’re quarantining in your one-bed potentially destroying marine life in flat, you can – via a few spritzes of the process and even ending up in perfume – find yourself on an idyllic the food we eat. And that’s before we beach in Calabria, a tranquil rose come to the carbon footprint involved garden in Grasse, or walking among in transporting everything to the sandalwood trees in Southwestern manufacturers, to shops and onward Australia. Most of us are intrigued by to our doors. ingredients from the natural world; it Beyond that, there are questions all adds to fragrance’s fascination. about how sustainably ingredients are Nevertheless, our consumption produced – are crops replanted, or is of fragrance and beauty impacts the land stripped or depleted? – and how planet – whose beauty these products fairly those farming and picking the are supposed to be paying tribute to plants that are transformed into

Recycling is good, but if you reuse perfume bottles, you “ don’t have to keep destroying and reproducing them JEAN-BAPTISTE ROUX, J.U.S.

22 THE scented LETTER ” THE scented LETTER 31 the precious essences we spritz onto from scrap dust from marble quarries. Indeed, water-waste is another key our skin are paid, for their work. It plans to roll out this approach across sustainability issue, with L’Oréal The good news is that in common the rest of its range too. pledging that by 2030, 100% of the with pretty much every industry in this One of the beauty world’s giants, water used in their industrial processes fast-changing world, sustainability L’Oréal (who own Viktor & Rolf, will be recycled and reused in a loop. is very much on the fragrance Mugler, Diesel and Ralph Lauren At retail level, high street chain The agenda. The International Fragrance fragrances, among others), recently Perfume Shop unveiled a recycling Association (IFRA) has recently released new guidelines pledging scheme last year, which collects released the IFRA-IOFI Sustainability that by 2030, 100% of the plastics customers’ unwanted bottles and Charter (ifra-iofi.org), providing a used in their packaging will be either sends them to a specialist recycling framework to encourage and help from recycled or bio-based sources, expert to ensure all elements of companies to become more eco- together with a pledge that will ensure the bottle – from glass to metal – friendly. In doing so, it highlights all of their formulas are respectful of are repurposed in the right way. five main focus areas: responsible aquatic eco-systems – meaning fewer (The bonus: you bag 10% off your sourcing; environmental footprint; toxic chemicals polluting the oceans. purchase, when you buy a new bottle wellbeing of employees; product of fragrance there and then). safety and transparency. However, while recycling is better ‘While sustainability has always than consigning your fragrance been important, our understanding bottle to landfill, it isn’t always the of the issues has increased Sustainability most sustainable solution. When you greatly over the last 10 years, and “ consider all the processes involved this has allowed us to develop has another in recycling (collecting, washing, a more structured focus,’ says IFRA disinfecting, sorting, re-processing, Director Lisa Hipgrave. ‘This IFRA- meaning for a and redistribution), it’s not always easy IOFI Sustainability Charter is a joint or cheap – and incurs its own carbon project with the flavour industry, brand; being footprint. Reusing more – or more which enables members to benchmark precisely, refilling – is a smarter long- their progress to date and provides a able to source the term approach, and it’s something flexible toolkit to encourage further quality ingredients fragrance companies are starting to development of sustainability goals.’ take on board. Many brands are already trying to ensures the Mugler fragrances were actually move things in a sustainable direction. ahead of the eco-curve here. Acqua di Parma’s latest launch, sustainability of Launched several years ago, their ‘The Colonia Futura, gives the original Source’ has now been rebranded ‘The packaging an eco-friendly upgrade, our business, too Fountain’, but the deal’s the same: with a bottle cap made from recycled take along your empty Alien, Angel or and recyclable plastic, together with Angel, for a top-up in-store (or order a a removable fragrance dispenser (for refill bottle from their website, and do easier recycling) and a label created THIERRY WASSER,” GUERLAIN it yourself). Disruptive brands like The AdP’s packaging has been updated to eco standards

24 THE scented LETTER PERFUME FOR PLANET AND PEOPLE

Left: Mugler’s Fountain refill station. Here: At J.U.S fragrances, refilling is also part of the niche brand’s DNA

Experimental Perfume Club and Floral Elsewhere, niche independent houses all have their own highly Street, as well as Molton Brown, also perfumeries are getting creative impressive sustainability initiatives (see offer in-store refill options. And several in their attempts to reduce waste over) – and it benefits both farmers luxury names – including Armani, packaging. Floral Street offer and the companies who buy from Chanel and Hermès – now sell refills compostable fragrance cartons for all them. As Guerlain’s Thierry Wasser in plainer bottles (in Chanel’s case, to their fragrances, held together with a explains: ‘Sustainability is vital in our replenish their atomisers). Because (reusable) elastic band – eliminating industry. It is important because we doesn’t it just feel so, so wrong to the need for cellophane. Another need to source ingredients in a way throw away a beautiful flacon…? advocate of what you could call a that is respectful to the planet and to Refilling is something that French ‘slow perfume’ movement is Thibaud farmers, protecting biodiversity. But niche brand J.U.S also strongly Crivellli, founder of Maison Crivelli, sustainability has another meaning advocate. ‘Recycling is good, but if you whose fragrances are packaged using for a brand; being able to source reuse perfume bottles, you don’t have Forestry Stewardship Council-certified the quality ingredients ensures the to keep destroying and reproducing paper, with zero plastics. And though sustainability of our business, too.’ them,’ explains J.U.S co-founder J.U.S still use cellophane, it’s from In other words: farmers (and indeed Jean-Baptiste Roux. ‘We offer refills compostable wood-cellulose. their descendants) must be healthily on all J.U.S perfumes as we think this The sustainability of perfume incentivised to stay on the land, to is better than recycling. Our motto is ingredients is its own minefield, keep growing that vetiver, that vanilla, “produce less and use a lot!”’ however. The large fragrance supply that ylang ylang we so love.

From left: The Experimental Perfume Club’s refill station. Maison Crivelli scents come in FSC-certifed cartons. Floral Street’s compostable cartons

THE scented LETTER 25 Meanwhile, how can the ordinary formulas, including country of origin Shoemack. ‘While I’d like to see full perfume-lover in the street figure out – highlighting those that have been transparency from brands, there which ingredients are sustainable, Fair Traded or organically farmed. are also ways to meet half-way. A without taking a degree in ecology? They also donate 1% of revenue to simple solution might be for all non- Certification from organisations such environmental causes, such as SOIL, biodegradable and non-renewable as the Soil Association and the FSC which works to improve sanitation in ingredients to be regulated in the is a good signpost. ‘Preservation of Haiti (where the company’s vetiver same way that allergens are [i.e. listed biodiversity and sustainability are oil is sourced). But the profile of all on packaging]. It’s about committing important factors considered when these initiatives definitely deserves to looking at the full product lifecycle. we select materials to be used in Soil to be raised even further – because Sustainability is a 360-degree, ever- Association-certified products and evolving journey and brands need to ingredients,’ explains their Technical understand that and get on board Specialist Emma Dawes. ‘Ingredients in a genuine way.’ And the same, of must be non-genetically modified, course, applies to perfume-wearers. from certified sustainable palm oil and Sustainability is a Arguably, fragrance is one of not from petrochemicals, in “ the few pleasures we have left at most cases.’ 360-degree, ever- the moment, given that many of us It’s also well worth exploring the haven’t been able to hug our loved websites of fragrance supply houses evolving journey ones in months. So, after the year such as IFF, Givaudan, Firmenich, we’ve had, nobody wants to read yet Symrise and Mane, etc., where you and brands need another End of Days-style article about will find their sustainability reports and the environment – especially not if the statements on issues like slavery and to understand that result was to make us feel guilty about human trafficking. If you’re prepared FRANCES SHOEMACK, ABEL our love of perfume. to go digging, there are some very But happily, when it comes to heartening initiatives indeed. perfume, being more sustainable And where perfume brands – as doesn’t mean giving up the things opposed to these supply houses – in the same way that consumers are we love. And if we can support have good news stories in terms of asking questions of food and fashion those brands and fragrance houses sustainability, you’ll generally find companies about” their environmental leading the eco-charge, the rest of them shouting about them in the policies, those questions are starting the industry will follow. Enabling us to ‘About Us’ or ‘Our Story’ section to be asked of fragrance companies. enjoy our perfume, its feel-good factor of their websites. 100% natural ‘Without access to this kind of ramped up still further by knowing New Zealand perfumery Abel, for information there is no accountability that it’s kind both to the planet and instance, transparently lists every and therefore no impetus for change,’ to the people who help magic it from single ingredient in each of their notes Abel co-founder Frances field to flacon.

FROM FIELD TO FLACON Vetiver s Just five of the fragrance Guerlain has revived the projects transforming lives in the sustainable harvesting of developing world, while ensuring vetiver in Tamil Nadu, India. we will have continued access to There, Thierry Wasser has the naturals we love overseen the establishment and development of vetiver

s farming, helping educate Rose the farmers to produce In Turkey, Robertet Group – the world this earthily-scented grass, leader in the supply of sustainable which offers surprising raw materials – have been financing ‘eco-benefits’, as well as rose plantations for more than 60 income. Vetiver flourishes years, securing an income for the in hostile areas where other 20,000 producer families who harvest crops may fail, surviving the rose petals every year, as well as on very little water while financing waste water pipelines. limiting soil erosion.

26 THE scented LETTER PERFUME FOR PLANET AND PEOPLE

s Patchouli IFF works to support patchouli- Ylang ylang farming communities in Indonesia In Madagascar, Robertet through the Ecocert For Life have also helped local certification, to encourage strong farmers purchase environmental and social practices stainless steel distillation throughout the supply chain. For equipment, to reduce the example, to support the local environmental impact community in Sulawesi, they helped and increase the quality develop a program to address key of the ylang ylang oil challenges related to agroforestry, produced. With more than women’s empowerment, 60 people employed in resources management and the project, it also offers plastic waste management. training and education.

Sandalwood s Givaudan have been working with the Australian sandalwood industry, one of the most sustainable sources of the ingredient. Harvested by local Aboriginal farmers, Dutjahn sandalwood oil has a 50% ‘indigenous financial benefit’ – all royalties are controlled by the local Aboriginal farmers, as part of Givaudan’s pioneering programme of ‘Sourcing for Shared Value’.

THE scented LETTER 25 PERFUMED PROMOTION

You can go your own way We live in the age of the individual. Our music playlist isn’t the same as anyone else’s. We want our wardrobe to make a unique fashion statement. And when it comes to fragrance, we’re also looking for something that says: this is me. I’m doing it my way...

28 THE scented LETTER Which is exactly why – with their Bruno Jovanovic: Carlos had a vision quality, as each step of their finger on the pulse-point as ever for MY WAY that I helped to production is scrutinised with care. – you’ll find these words on Armani’s materialise. We were inspired by latest, beautiful unveiling: MY WAY. gorgeous white flowers: tuberose, What makes the crafting of the As you’ll learn from every single jasmine, orange flower. A specifically tuberose and orange blossom page of this edition of The Scented developed heart of tuberose was also blended in the scent unique? Letter, there are huge changes incorporated in order to make it even BJ: It took a whole R&D department to happening in the world of fragrance. more exclusive. We wanted to come up with olfactory solutions that Yes, it’s still the case that what we maximise and extend this floral would help materialise our vision of spritz on our skins and perhaps onto centrepiece beyond its boundaries, this Armani fragrance. Via a molecular our hair must first and foremost smell from top to bottom. distillation method, we developed a sublime – and MY WAY certainly does very specific fraction of tuberose: the that, swirling with a huge bouquet of Would you say MY WAY’s richness of Tuberose Absolute Heart 5. This exquisite, intriguing (and even ingredients is an olfactory encounter crafting allowed us to chisel the finest ground-breaking) white florals, with the world? grade of tuberose to select and including tuberose (pictured in the BJ & CB: Yes, because we are beautify the facet of the ingredient we hands of MY WAY’s beautiful ‘face’, combining the most beautiful white wanted: a concentration of creamy, actress Adria Arjona, opposite). flowers from all over the world. Indian velvety facets from the tuberose. It But today, we’re also looking to jasmine sambac absolute and jasmine creates a unique modern and tread more lightly on the planet in grandiflorum Super Infusion, which is addictive sillage. every aspect of our lives. Sensitive to exclusively crafted for Armani. Orange CB: For MY WAY, we have also revived that, MY WAY’s ingredients have been flower from Egypt and tuberose heart the enfleurage method, an ancestral consciously sourced – more of which process of extraction to extract a its perfumers will share in a moment. specific quality. By dipping bitter Beyond that, when you’ve spritzed orange flowers in orange essence, the the last from your beautiful MY WAY result is a unique and natural sparkling flacon (right), you can top it up it via a floralcy, which infuses the top notes generous 125ml refill. ‘Refill, recycle, with youthful radiance and naturality. reuse’ looks set to become fragrance’s new mantra, actually. It’s the way we You used a process called ‘molecular want things to be, now. Yet in fact, division’ for the tuberose: what does Giorgio Armani Beauty’s eco- it involve, and what olfactory quality consciousness reflects the designer’s did it allow you to achieve? own long-term philosophy: ‘I love BJ: Imagine the tuberose absolute like things that stand the test of time.’ a rough diamond, which you can cut With that in mind, MY WAY’s into a clear-cut gem. We are refining renowned perfumers set out to create what nature gave us, making it a gem. a juice that will transcend fragrance CB: When you smell it, it gives you the fashion to become a contemporary MY WAY’s stunning ‘bottle for life’ effect of diving into a fresh petal, still classic. And we’re delighted to share in the field. We took the absolute best with you what the venerable Carlos from the region of Mysore in the facets the flower could offer and Benaïm and his colleague Bruno village of Tirumakudal Narsipur, India, ‘isolated’ the perfect heart for the Jovanovic have to say, about this but crafted in Grasse. We also have creation. The Tuberose Absolute Heart inspiring MY WAY collaboration. Italian citrus, Virginia cedarwood from 5 brings a modern twist to the note and USA, and vanilla from Madagascar, enhances the perception of naturality. How does MY WAY tell a new sourced through Giorgio Armani’s olfactory story within the concept of responsible and inclusive sourcing And how would you describe in a Armani femininity? program that promotes social few words the MY WAY woman who Carlos Benaïm: MY WAY is a great inclusion. It is an olfactory journey the fragrance is inspired by? floral fragrance with a unique through some of the world’s most BJ: Elegant, free-spirited, with a naturalness, very much in phase with exotic locations. positive energy, beautiful with today’s mindset. It highlights a effortless, natural femininity. contemporary floral structure infused How does it feel to work with natural CB: Independent, sophisticated and with naturality and with sustainability ingredients? alluring, a lover of travel, curious to at its heart. It connects Armani fashion BJ: It makes you feel responsible and explore the world and its most to Armani scent in a new, spiritual way. in step with the current climate. coveted natural treasures. Sustainability is a must-do today; it’s How complementary have your the right thing to do. But it doesn’t Giorgio Armani MY WAY is priced from respective areas of expertise hurt that the materials obtained from a £55 for 30ml eau de parfum; £125 for been in creating this fragrance? sustainable source are also of a higher 150ml refill armanibeauty.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 29

PERFUME’S POLARISATION DON’T STAND SO CLOSE TO ME In these continuing strange days, people have turned to fragrance more than ever – but will social distancing change the way we wear scent? Senior Writer, SUZY NIGHTINGALE, peels back the mask to explore personal space and post-pandemic perfumes

THE scented LETTER 31 PERFUME’S POLARISATION

DON’T WANT YOU to think that I used to It’s a subject much discussed on the many internet randomly gad about sniffing strangers’ necks. forums dedicated to perfume parley. So I posted a Not often, anyway. But when hugging a friend question in one Facebook group, asking if people’s or meeting someone at a fragrance launch, I fragrance habits had changed since #lockdown – and if so, would automatically lean in and get a whiff of why? Many who replied explained they’d been craving the what they were wearing. more soothing among their scents. ‘There is great comfort Currently, however, the thought of such in wearing something familiar wrapped up in cherished innocent exchanges – thrusting your wrist memories,’ related one fragrant fan. Another agreed that at someone or demanding to know what perfumes helped her feel better, so although she was perfume that person you brushed past on awaiting surgery, ‘While I lie in bed… I'm at least smelling Ithe Tube was wearing – makes me shudder. Because, awesome! I've even laid a little table with all my favourite thanks to the outbreak of COVID-19, we have suddenly scents – it makes me happy just having them around.’ been made horrifically aware of our physical proximity Wearing a plethora of perfumes – sometimes to other people. The distance between us has become several in one day – rather than sticking to one scent, an emotionally weaponised topic of debate on 24-hour definitely seems to be a trend, with a huge number of rolling news channels, online, in households worldwide. correspondents clarifying the specific, COVID-related And it’s changed us. For how long we have no idea. But reason for this: ‘I changed fragrances every day so when your natural instinct to spontaneously throw your that there wouldn't be a single "lockdown" perfume arms around a friend you’ve not seen for ages – to have in my memory,’ one woman related. Another agreed much-needed physical contact of any kind if you live alone that ‘I’ve been forcing myself to wear something or are sheltering someone vulnerable – different everyday’, even going so far now makes you recoil with regret, well, as to put away the recent purchase that literally stops you in your tracks, of a new favourite ‘…because I don't doesn’t it? For as Sarah Knott, author of want to associate this year with one Mother: An Unconventional History, puts We have split particular juice. I'd never wear it again!’ it: ‘Smell is a language of airborne shouts “ Acknowledging a transition of taste and whispers that travels across rooms.’ into camps of variations, another forum member And now, this is even leading to the declared, ‘During the initial lockdown, creation of scents specifically to repel, wallflower I didn’t wear anything much at all, but rather than attract. For instance, are you generally now I’m either wearing my cosy ready for a Marmite-infused fragrance? fragrances and comfort favourites or bombastic don’t- Yes, really. Lynx Africa x Marmite has give-a-damn strong stuff.’ declared itself to be ‘the world’s first social stand-offish On balance, most of the perfume-lovers distancing deodorant.’ As it develops, said they were deliberately choosing those in your vicinity are apparently scents bold, characterful fragrances that shook ‘…unexpectedly met with a salty punch them out of their daily woes, and actively of Marmite.’ enjoying the fact they could wear what Yet at the opposite end of the scent they liked in the most generous of doses. spectrum, we see an equally strong trend for fragrance One forum member declared: ‘I over-spray massively if I becoming more intimate and personal. Fragrances that ”have to venture to the supermarket. I figure people have whisper, rather than shout. Although it’s a spoof, a scent to stay away, so let's take advantage and get the big ad on YouTube sums this up, seeking humour in the hitters out!’ ‘I’m wearing stronger and more “challenging” current situation, with the strapline: ‘Introvert: the only fragrances, and using more sprays,’ another forumite fragrance that smells as good as cancelling plans feels.’ agreed, ‘on the assumption that I won't be getting We seem to have split into camps of wallflower especially physically close to other people.’ fragrances and stand-offish scents. It all makes me wonder, The fascinating revelations from the Facebook group rather longer than usual of a morning, what fragrance are borne out in a recent report by trends and market to wear that day and – more specifically – how strong data analysts, the NDP Group, who announced that it should be; how much I should spray. Previously, I’ve post-lockdown, perfume sales are outperforming every never exactly been what you might call a shy spritzer. But sector and leading the recovery of the UK beauty industry. venturing outside the house for my Government-approved But people are desperately missing getting to try new stroll this spring, I found myself rather nervously selecting perfumes on their skin. A busy nurse told me ‘I SO miss quieter scents in my collection, at first. If my fragrance going to sniff new things and try them on.’ Others transgressed into a stranger’s face, even if I were standing chimed in, expressing frustration: ‘The virus has affected at arm’s length, would they feel invaded, as though I’d my ability to travel and to “go sniffing” – I think that’s reached out and touched them? where I’ve felt the biggest impact.’

32 THE scented LETTER IN THE BUBBLE: Fragrances for Quiet Contemplation

JULIETTE HAS A GUN Not A Perfume Composed of D.S. & DURGA Crystal Pistil Petal-soft ‘your skin but a single element called Cetalox, this allergen-free better’ musk, this fragrant dew is composed to layer fragrance is a wispy kiss from Casper the Friendly Ghost with any fragrance you own – or simply enjoy it, solo

VINES HOUSE PARFUM Natural Story Radiantly clean CLEAN RESERVE Warm Cotton Solar-filled comfort cucumber, pear and neroli feel like wrapping yourself in brushed with ginger, mint, and leafy green notes; spray the pearly embrace of a sun-dappled morning mist when you need lazy Sundays and lie-ins, bottled

SARAH BAKER PERFUMES Far From the Madding Crowd BENTLEY BEYOND THE COLLECTION Mellow Evoking romantic picnics in wildflower meadows; Heliotrope Proving mellow needn’t mean meek; clouds tender fruits frolic with myrtle and fresh eucalyptus of billowing vanilla cuddle crisp blackcurrant fruitiness THE scented LETTER 25 the master of modern femininity SOCIAL DISTANCING: Fragrances for Marking Your Territory

ORTO PARISI Megamare Ambergris Ambergris, JOVOY Psychédélique A smoky swagger of patchouli seaweed and sea cucumber sound innocuous, but this engulfs a thorny rose, while boozy vanilla makes merry salty beast is a tempting tempest, a scented leviathan with a twist of amber. Suggestively substantial

MORESQUE Al Andalus Blast imbeciles from your BEAUFORT LONDON Terror & Magnificence Cold path with a sizzle of saffron, black pepper and ginger, flagstones echo incense-laden shadows, dark wooden exploding into oudh and labdanum lashed by birch church pews and a seductively sinister glint of a smile

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Musc Ravageur Seriously animalic, this MOSCHINO Toy Boy Having proffered a bouquet of spicy snarls with improper intentions; lashings of warm vanilla roses, he’s only gone and set them on fire. A handsomely stridently woven with bergamot and lavender seductive room-filler, it’s throbbingly good fun 24 THE scented LETTER PERFUME’S POLARISATION

Retail, of course, is still struggling to find new ways to A HISTORY OF HOW MUCH tempt us back in store (see Amanda Carr’s exploration of IS ‘TOO MUCH’? the new high street scent rules, on p.40), with most shops having swept their counters of tester bottles. As a result, The issue of not wishing to ‘offend’ others via sales have massively moved online (a trend we’ve definitely our perfume habits has become something of seen, as sales of our Perfume Society Discovery Boxes and a perfumed hot potato the past few years – but brands’ own sample sets have soared.) it’s nothing new. The politicisation of scenting But the bottom line is that in troubling times, we ourselves, and particularly, the judgement of desperately need something lovely, a treat, a daily ritual ‘women who wear too much perfume’, is an to soothe our nerves or bolster our confidence with some argument that has perturbed prudish men backbone-in-a-bottle. Firmenich – the world’s largest for aeons. privately-owned fragrance and flavour company – recently Ever since women first adorned their bodies published a report, Reimagine: Generation C is Calling, with fragrant oils, certain sections of society on how the fragrance industry itself needs to cling on (usually men) have had a little perfumed panic. to the positive. From March to April 2020, their Social They either assumed women were setting Media Insights team ran a worldwide study on how people olfactory snares to lure unwary lovers, or were feeling. In order of pretending to be clean while masking their ranking, the emotionally ‘noxious’ feminine body odours with scent. descriptive words used According to an 1880 edition of the popular were: Isolated, Protected, etiquette book, The Manners That Win, ‘It is in Safe, Positive, Sick and There is great bad taste for a lady to use strong perfumes. Clean. ‘During this time,’ “ A hint of a delicate perfume is quite enough.’ Firmenich note, ‘two comfort in wearing This was a major shift from previous eras, when other emotions grew emanating great gusts of elegant fragrance significantly – Frustration something familiar distinguished the aristocracy from the rather and Inspiration – in pongier poor. what seems like an odd wrapped up in Rachel S. Herz traces this change of attitude in pairing. But do we need her book, Neurobiology of Sensation and Reward to reconcile them? Or cherished (CRC Press/Taylor & Francis). As soon as perfume can we reimagine a co- became an ‘affordable luxury’ – available at existence: frustration memories prices within the means of the working classes to leading to inspiration?’ purchase, wearing ‘the once-prestigious heavy Based on countless and animalic scents of earlier generations’ soon trend reports and went from being a desirable sign of one’s wealth observations of consumer and social status, to something ‘only prostitutes behaviour, I personally predict the future of ”fragrance and the déclassé dared wear.’ will consist of polarised, scented ‘splinter groups’ – a In his excellent historiography of smell from split between those who only feel comfortable wearing ancient to modern times, Past Scents: Historical ‘inoffensive’ or ‘clean’ fragrances; and those who react Perspectives on Smell (University of Illinois against this by flagrantly flaunting brasher, weaponised, Press), Jonathan Reinarz observes: ‘Doubts more solipsistic scents, such as the recently ramped up and fears about the benefits of an increasingly Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum, YSL Libre Intense or Paco fragrant society have not dissipated… increasing Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (see our Latest Launches round- numbers of individuals and groups have tried to up on p.48 for more on this). ban perfumes in public spaces with what could But whatever happens, to paraphrase Mark Twain, be described as religious zeal.’ reports of the death of fragrance have been greatly But the move towards working from home exaggerated. Sampled from our sofas or sent across the has surely put paid to any threat of that. Several miles to socially distanced, perfume-loving pals, worn as members of the fragrance forum who answered an invisible armour, or to increase the feelings of amour: my query replied they were relishing wearing fragrance bonds us. ‘…more fragrance than ever, because I don’t Whichever olfactory camp you’re in, this fact unites have to worry about workplace no-scent rules.’ us: fragrance sales are up because we need the power Another shared her utter joy at fragrant freedom: of perfume more than ever. For many of us, spraying on ‘I had nearly stopped wearing fragrance before the right scent can be that instant hit of happiness which lockdown because my workplace regularly sends – when we’ve come to the end of or metaphorical rope – out e-mails warning against it. Now that I’m helps us tie a knot in it and hang on; because better days staying home, I wear it every day and enjoy it.’ WILL come again. Which is at least one silver lining, to the Until then? At least we’re smelling awesome. COVID cloud.

THE scented LETTER 35 A MANIFESTO FOR CHANGE

CHRISTOPHE LAUDAMIEL

But if ever this industry was ready for a shake-up, it’s surely right now. In 2020, all bets are off: how we work, where we do it, how fragrances are created and sold and enjoyed. And whether or not you agree with all his IT’S NEVER EASY chatting disruptive ideas, one thing is certain: with Christophe Laudamiel. First off, here’s a man who seeks to hold up I swear he has some kind of electric a mirror to the perfume world, and MAVERICKlife-force thatAND crashes Zoom calls, MAGICIAN question everything done in homage jinxes Instagram Lives and generally to Perfumery (‘with a capital P’, as makes transatlantic communication he puts it). He’s also on a mission to between The Perfume Society HQ get everyone outside the perfume and this perfumer’s New York lab business – the man, woman and child JO FAIRLEY technologically challenging. (For this in the street – to focus more on scents conversation alone, we had about and smells, in order to get greater Zooms with a seven attempts. During some of them, pleasure out of the world and out Christophe’s phone was angled so of life itself. Which, in that respect, talented perfumer, that all I could see was a glimpse of puts us shoulder-to-shoulder with his Mohican.) Christophe on the soapbox. ‘scent sculptor’ Secondly, for anyone who’s been Master perfumer Christophe trained to think about fragrance Laudamiel’s Wikipedia page scrolls on and author of in a conventional way, the ideas for days. Here’s a man who, before he Christophe has for shaking up became a perfumer, won the French a controversial the perfume world take a while to National Chemistry Olympiads, in sediment down, into the brain. For 1986. Who completely shook up the fragrance instance: his proposal that perfume laundry market with his innovation of companies be more transparent about Lenor Cherry Blossom, Ariel and Gain, manifesto, who is a bottle’s fragrance ingredients, on delivering new patented freshness; in their websites – as some fashion and 1999 he received Procter & Gamble’s out to change the candle companies have started to be Special Recognition Awards for his in the past few years. Or the notion innovative work with fabric softeners, perfume world that we should always buy perfume as well as his discoveries of new from perfumers, not from fashion fragrance molecules and technologies. for good or clothing brands – ‘in the same Christophe then went on to study way you buy fashion from fashion fine fragrance with master perfumers designers, music from musicians.’ Pierre Bourdon, Carlos Benaïm, Sophia

36 THE scented LETTER protection of all communities.’ And if you don’t agree, I’d respectfully suggest you go elsewhere – though you’ll miss out on the excellent info on how to improve your sense of smell, as well as how to ‘read’ a perfume label. On the Zoo website, you’ll also find his open ‘Dear Santa’ to Leonard Lauder, with a wishlist that includes an Estée Lauder Building at Columbia University as ‘a centre for olfactory education and excellence to promote academic scent education across disciplines’ (he points out that the public and Nobel Prize winners alike know more about coffee, wine, golf and cheese than they know about their own nose). And a Leonard Lauder Building of Olfactory Technology and Electronics for Motion Pictures, Theatre and Publishing’, pointing out that these fields are all ‘at an olfactory kindergarten level’. Beyond that, he’d like to see The Jane Lauder Department of Smell Vocabulary, Theory & Ethics at Radcliffe College (named after another senior Estée Lauder corporation executive/family member): ‘Scientists and theoreticians are desperate to develop a vocabulary specific to olfaction. Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do; blue, orange, green, yellow; Pantone codes – no such system exists in perfumery, to date,’ he says. And so it goes on; I can thoroughly recommend taking a few minutes of your life to read to the end. Christophe has also published ‘A Fragrance Manifesto’ – the gloriously named ‘Liberté, Egalité, Fragrancité’, its title a play on the French national motto. With passion infused into every single line, it strives for greater inclusivity, transparency, opportunity. Lots of blue-sky thinking, for sure. Lots Grojsman and Pierre Wargnye, winning of cage-rattling suggestions. (Read 2003’s FIFI for ‘Fragrance Star of the ‘AT THE END OF THE DAY, elements of it, overleaf.) Year’ – one of so many awards, over I’D LIKE US TO HAVE AS But mostly, the manifesto embodies the years. Several of his creations Christophe’s dream of a world that – Polo Blue and Abercrombie & MANY PERFUMERS AS pays more attention to our precious Fitch Fierce (co-created with Carlos sense of smell, rescuing it from the Benaïm) – remained top 10 sellers WE HAVE MUSICIANS’ status, so perfectly expressed by for more than a decade. Describing Helen Keller, as ‘the fallen angel of our himself as a ‘scent sculptor’, one of senses.’ (It is surely no coincidence Christophe’s most fascinating projects two niche ventures: Strangelove that his company is called DreamAir.) was the creation of smells inspired by (with Elizabeth Gaynes and Helena ‘I’ve had a lot of positive feedback Patrick Süskind’s novel-turned-movie, Christensen), and his own perfume from other perfumers and niche Perfume, which included ‘the stench of house, The Zoo. On The Zoo website, brands,’ he says, about the manifesto, streets in 18th Century Paris.’ visitors are asked to agree with this adding that there are groups in certain Today, as well as working his scent statement before entering the site: ‘I institutions now pondering how some wizardry for big commercial clients align myself 100% in support of human aspects could be implemented. through his lab – which is equipped rights and am committed to speaking On one level, he’s clearly hugely by IFF – Christophe is involved in out: for justice, for freedom, for equal proud of the industry. In terms of

THE scented LETTER 37 sustainability, Christophe explains: ‘Perfume has been sustainable since the 80s. Safe ingredients, no more child THE MANIFESTO labour, respect for women, no pollution, no exploitation of the land. In fact, he We don’t have room to publish all of this says, ‘Perfumery has now entered the age here. But with Christophe Laudamiel’s of super-sustainability – patchouli crops kind permission, we bring you some monitored by GPS, water pumps in villages thought-provoking elements from where they plant vanilla or patchouli, ‘Liberté, Egalité, Fragrancité’. Read chemical engineering techniques exported it in full at thezoonyc.com from Grasse transparently, to farmers around the world.’ On the subject of inclusivity, meanwhile, he was very outspoken at the time of Black Lives Matter, grasping the opportunity FIRST, THE PUBLIC SHALL HAVE to help bring about change on a societal level. ‘Even at school I was the person ACCESS TO REAL INFORMATION in class who would defend the person 1 who was less fortunate. I’m someone n Children shall be given olfactory education at home who comes from a lower middle class and in schools to awaken the senses, communication background myself, but when something and intelligence. isn’t fair, I have to do something.’ Within the fragrance industry, n Universities shall open real Perfume Studies departments. Christophe does see signs of change, University courses shall use smells, fragrance compositions in terms of increased opportunity. ‘The or olfactory science to illustrate their points. programmes at the leading fragrances

houses – IFF, Givaudan, Robertet, n Top students at top universities shall routinely join the Mane, Firmenich and Symrise – have fragrance industry as much as joining the aerospace industry been opened up to Asian and Hispanic/ or Wall Street, be it to become perfume diffusion engineers, Brazilian students for many years, now. The perfume managers, perfumers, or anything perfume… industry is very well aware that the Black American and African populations are not n well-represented at all; two years ago, The public shall be made aware that most of us smell well Givaudan and IFF have started to focus enough, and smell better once we train and start putting our specifically on Africa and Black America, noses everywhere. and The Institute of Art & Olfaction in LA now offers classes to become perfumers, n Blind people around the world shall be offered extra specifically for people who have trouble olfactory stimuli and enrichment. entering other institutions.’ On a personal level, Christophe has n The public shall be taught that the brain gets as much himself been training future perfumers in information, pleasure, intelligence and decision power via Nigeria since February this year, donating our noses as via our eyes. By smelling, one doesn’t damage his fee to Paris’s Osmothèque (the world’s one’s nose, lungs or brain, as they are made just for that: custodian of fragrances) to further the to smell. Perfumers are not known to have rotten lungs or dreams of young Africans to work in worn-out noses. Human beings get fresh olfactory cells fragrance. But one of the fundamental every 4-6 weeks like sharks get regularly fresh sets of teeth. problems, Christophe observes, is that Smelling doesn’t provoke much more allergies than music ‘many people out there don’t even know provokes epilepsy crises. Let’s stop the drama coming the job of a perfumer exists – not just in from ignorance. fine fragrance, but also in candles and

Downy/Lenor, etc. At the end of the day, n Teachers and psychologists, as well as doctors and nurses, I’d like us to have as many perfumers as we shall walk around with a scent kit. Via smelling sessions, they have musicians.’ shall obtain stories patients won’t recall by oral or visual As our Zoom call crashes for the questioning. In return patients shall enjoy the healthy brain umpteenth time, I can’t help but agree. aerobic called smelling. Although of one thing I am also certain: it doesn’t matter how many thousands of n perfumers there are in the world: there’ll People shall understand that a perfume piano, also only ever be one Christophe Laudamiel. called perfumery organ, has about 1,500 keys, also called ingredients or notes, compared to only 88 keys for a musical piano. thezoo.nyc strangelove.com

38 THE scented LETTER A MANIFESTO FOR CHANGE SECOND, LET’S JUMP 2 TO THE NEXT LEVEL n Perfumes shall be considered more than accessories. Perfumers shall become again the authority in fragrance design and decisions. Music is not considered an accessory, painting is not considered an accessory.

n The fragrance industry shall recruit, dress, talk and perfume itself in much more colourful and hip ways…

n We shall publicly recognise scent heroes: scientists, botanists and authors who contribute to the development of perfumes, general olfactory knowledge and expansion.

THIRD, LET THE 3 EXCITEMENT BEGIN n It shall be further exposed that perfumers are not just n ‘Girls’ shall know thier vanillas and inspired by flowers and the smells of their grandmothers. patchoulis as much as their lipsticks. Smelling can be quirky, punky, sexy, intellectual and ‘Guys’ shall know their oudhs and vetiver much more. distillates as much as their wines and whiskies. And exchange ‘girls’ and ‘guys’. n Publishers shall routinely beef up their paper stories with scented pages and smell inserts. Scent tracks n Buildings shall in future get several 3 and cartridges shall be provided prior to TV or movie rotating scents over the course of a day, like programmes, to accompany them. giving them a soul. n Children shall bring home a scented present, or hide n A TV show shall be staged to reveal the a scented object in their parents’ suitcase as a travel backstage of perfume sourcing of precious amulet. Parents shall hold scent bars and surprises, bring ingredients in remote inaccessible places back an unknown scent from an unknown place. These – because fragrance ingrdients don’t grow will be unforgettable experiences which mark for life. in downtown Manhattan or inside good They enrich culture and diversity, and stretch old Paris – to show the drama of perfume the imagination. composition as well as the drama of perfume criticism. n The public shall appreciate the sustainable spirit of fragrance. By using fragrances we effectively help 40,000 n Chefs and perfumers shall work farmers in Haiti grow vetiver plants. By loving jasmine together in the same labs, chefs using and violet leaves coming from Egypt as well as orange molecules and patchouli and tuberose flowers from Tunisia and Somalia, we help bring children and green mandarin essence and to school and give women jobs. By enjoying vanilla much more complex mixtures than extracts we allow villages in Uganda to afford basic water just a spice mix, and perfumers using equipment, whilst using bergamot from Calabria helps to the art of heating, cooking and aging provide jobs to young generations in one of the poorest on rose oils, sandalwood, oudh and Italian regions. other immortelle absolutes.

n Scents and scenting shall become again core religious These dreams are actually easy to and spiritual practices. People shall attend celebrations in materialise in the age of today. churches, mosques, synagogues and temples, as well as Let’s open our nostrils and go for it. practicing yoga, around smelling experiences. It nurtures memory, the sense of togetherness, the sense of whole, and promote extra internal and external communication. LET’S SPRITZ AGAIN SCENT SHOPPING ...in the new normal

The future of fragrance THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC has turned fragrance shopping upside-down: social distancing, liquid sanitisers, safety shopping is bright – but just screens, the non-sharing of tester bottles and absolutely no double-handling of those absorbent scent blotters are just a little different from what we some of the challenges for fragrance shops and customers alike in this weird new normal. have been used to. AMANDA Government guidelines are clear about everyone needing to wear masks while shopping to keep safe, but how do CARR, of We Wear Perfume, you tempt a customer to inhale a delicious new fragrance through layers of mask material? As I anxiously ventured ventures out to experience out onto the almost deserted pavements of central London for the first time in nearly five months, I felt like a fragrant scent shopping in real life version of Indiana Jones, were he ever to embark on a scent safari. wearing her futurist hat, to see The first #newnormal point to take on board is: patience is a virtue. There are many new behaviours to learn and we what the #NewNormal looks will all undoubtedly experience queuing at some point. My first stop was Les Senteurs in stylish Belgravia, where there like for perfume-lovers is a polite notice on the door explaining the ‘two guest’ policy for socially distanced shopping. Using the hand sanitiser as you enter is a must and masks must be worn, but – thankfully – your nose can peek out to allow you to inhale when needed. Once safely inside, though, it was such a joy to be back in a shop. Les Senteurs twinkles like a jewel box, with rows of enticing fragrance bottles lined up like old friends on its glass and chrome shelves, welcoming me back. Though closed during the pandemic, Les Senteurs remained busy with website sales, manager Clair Wills told me, thanks partly to the weekly e-newsletter that the store continued to send out. ‘I think people slowed down a lot during lockdown and had time to read properly about the fragrances we featured,’ she continued. ‘We offer a good tester service so customers had time to order samples and consider them at home.’ And this slowed-down shopping experience is the second of the #newnormal shopping points. Quite simply, post- pandemic shopping cannot be rushed. I had Les Senteurs to myself as foot traffic is still low, but everything takes a little Amanda paid longer when you are not allowed to touch the bottles or a visit to spray the testers yourself. Selfridges, Helped by Clair, I took my time, immersing myself in the where there’s selection. I sampled Cloon Keen, a charming Irish brand very much a exclusive to Les Senteurs, plus Andy Tauer’s Phtaloblue, ‘hands-off’ policy in place launched during lockdown, which is like a cool, sea

40 THE scented LETTER

Far left and left: Belgravia’s Les Senteurs, where expert help is to be had – once you’ve sanitised, of course. Below: a masked assistant at Floral Street; Diptyque’s Liberty store within a store, where Amanda found it a welcome relief to be helped by visor-wearing sales consultants whose lips she could read

Left and right: Penhaligon’s pandemic retail management is carried off with their usual wit, on the stylish signage LET’S SPRITZ AGAIN

Virtual engagements have given us the opportunity“ to focus on a more personalised, intimate approach with individuals or groups of people MICHELLE FEENEY OF FLORAL STREET FRAGRANCES ” breeze, lightly tinged with orange blossom and geranium. to catch customers who were spending more time online It all felt safe and cosy, and at the end of my dwell-time during lockdown. This saw it become Floral Street’s most (the professional name given to hanging about the shop) I successful fragrance launch to date.. almost didn’t want to leave. Let’s take a moment here to mention home testing, But there were more perfume stores to visit, so off I the fourth of our #newnormal shopping habits. Stores strode to Covent Garden, normally a bustling haven of have upped their sampling game. Independent shops are fragrance-testing opportunities but a more subdued place excellent at this, decanting from tester bottles into 1ml or on the day of my visit, with very few tourists. The lovely 2ml sample sized vials for you to try at home (which can Floral Street Fragrances shop was its usual colourful self also be ordered online). Most brands do discovery boxes, and staff – known as Floralistas – wore cheerful floral masks which you try at your leisure – and it’s worth mentioning that coordinated with their flower-printed aprons, which the here that The Perfume Society was there first with its store should definitely consider selling. excellent Discovery Box collections, so useful for anyone I caught up with founder Michelle Feeney to ask how super shielding, with a terrific assortment of brands and she’s coping with the new normal, ‘What is normal?’, she styles to choose from; the site now also stocks many exclaimed. ‘We are a small British fragrance brand in a perfume houses’ own discovery sets. sea of big players and are constantly being challenged. To get a bigger view on how sampling might look in the Because we are small, however, we are agile and I am future, I spoke to Jill Hill, co-founder of Aspects Beauty, extremely optimistic.’ Part of that nimbleness can be seen distributor of luxury fragrances to some of the UK’s top in how Floral Street has moved swiftly to connect with its stores. Aspects Beauty recently launched their own direct- customers online. It has upgraded its excellent discovery to-consumer website with an exciting array of beautiful sets – which are small enough to fit through a letter box – fragrances, possibly putting it in direct competition with for you to try at home while talking via Zoom to a Floralista, the very stores it supplies. But Jill is not worried. ‘Engaged and its hugely popular Scent School, where you can deep customers will be shopping across many different dive into learning about scent, has now become a fully channels,’ she says. ‘They will be engaging with social virtual experience. media platforms, and the communities that each retailer – And this brings us to the third of the #newnormal online or bricks and mortar – tries to establish.’ shopping rules, the morphing of store and online services, So as a consequence of shopping more digitally, expect where travel and health restrictions are motivating stores to your first ‘touch points’ with a new fragrance to shift from improve their connection to customers with better online the shop counter, or Duty Free aisle, to an Instagram post services. Floral Street is a good example of how it can be or a store website chat-bot. Digital conversations are seamlessly meshed together, because Michelle realises number five in the #newnormal rules, and our advice is start we will all be learning about, sampling and experiencing following your favourite brands and stores (and of course fragrance more from home via an online connection. @theperfumesociety), to ensure your finger is on the pulse- She points out the additional benefit of connecting point of all that’s new and exciting. digitally. ‘These virtual engagements have given us the For those who miss visiting department store fragrance opportunity to focus on a more personalised, intimate halls, with their theatrical windows and bewitching displays approach with individuals or groups of people. Our redolent of scent – well, things have definitely changed. At Floralistas guide customers through our eau de parfums Liberty, all fragrance bottles for sampling are held behind so they can become true connoisseurs of scent.’ The a perspex screen, requiring you to wait patiently for a delayed launch of the new Arizona Bloom, a deliciously masked-up staff member to spritz a sample on your skin sunny, salted musk, necessarily had a strong digital focus, (thankfully still allowed). I found the clear Perspex visor

THE scented LETTER 43 LET’S SPRITZ AGAIN

Shoppers will be engaging with social media platforms,“ and the communities that each retailer – online or bricks and mortar – tries to establish JILL HILL OF ASPECTS BEAUTY ” masks worn by Diptyque staff in Liberty a welcome change Kate Evans. ‘Here,’ Kate told me, ‘most customers are used from the fabric ones, as it’s much easier to understand to the new routine of shopping, and more confident about what’s being said. (Am I the only one who’s just discovering going into shops. It’s definitely a challenge, with customers how much I lip-read?) wearing face masks and restricted access to tester bottles. At Selfridges, their ongoing Project Earth campaign But finding new ways to experience scent will become perfectly demonstrates another aspect of the #newnormal increasingly important to us.’ – the opportunity to shop more sustainably for scent. The To delight customers who do visit, Kate’s experimenting store’s beauty halls – with strict one-way systems and very with her first lifestyle exhibition, Blue de Chîne, little product touching allowed – are, however, full of brands a collaboration with textile expert Bleu Anglais, via a pop- showing off their sustainable credentials, including the up shop inside her Spitalfields store this autumn. Vintage, delightful Skandinavisk pop-up shop, constructed entirely Chinese, blue and white, hand-made textiles sets are from reusable and natural Danish materials, to promote displayed alongside the Angela Flanders fragrances they its New Generation body care collection. Fully transparent inspired, to offer customers a new way to appreciate scent. about its origins, unusually it lists what percentage of This lifestyle crossover will see fragrance move outside fragrance is included in its body care lotions (high, at 2%). of the beauty hall environment and into unexpected Thankfully, there is still theatre to be had at Harvey shops, often as a collaboration or pop-up. It’s the seventh Nichols, where I caught up with new releases from #newnormal rule and is likely to see fragrance ‘go local’, Hermetica, another brand that is proudly ecological and on a high street near you. According to Deloitte Digital made via sustainable ‘green’ chemistry. I sank my nose research, three in five of us bought more locally during into a blotter doused in just-launched, verdantly soft lockdown and want to continue to do so in the future. IvyMe, a captivating green-tinged rose which felt fresh and Jill Hill of Aspects Beauty agrees it’s an important trend. comforting, ideal to wear for these unsettled times. And ‘At Aspects, we’re predicting a return to more localised Hermetica’s animated Heath-Robinson style scent-sampling shopping and we have launched an initiative to work with contraption can’t help but make you smile. This is why we more indie retailers to help them optimise this shift and come to department stores, for the out-of-the-ordinary give them opportunities to revive their offering to better experience, and Harvey Nichols excels at this. survive the current downturn.’ This is great news for local I asked Shannon Monteith, Harvey Nichols’ beauty stores who might want to experiment with selling fragrance buyer, what the store was doing to replace this type of – and excellent news for customers, who will enjoy finding experience for customers reluctant to visit, ‘We have scent sold in more convenient places. Jill continues: ‘This collaborated closely with our brands on new ways to trial will be a very different experience for fragrance customers products,’ she told us, ‘including enhanced sampling and – one that is more curated and edited and perhaps more beautiful luxury discovery boxes.’ (Heads-up: there’s a new easily refreshed with newness and seasonal relevance.’ exclusive Perfume Society x Harvey Nichols Discovery Box At this point in my journey I’m wondering if fragrance on the horizon, after last year’s collaboration sold out in might perhaps become the new fashion, since so many of record time.) Shannon adds: ‘Customers are also using Ask us aren’t shopping for fashion. Or perhaps the new art? HN, our online tool which connects customers directly to Either way, it sounds exciting. a beauty expert in-store, so customers receive impartial, But at the end of my whirlwind tour around my favourite real-time advice directly from our experienced team. London scent stores, I can confirm that it’s safe and indeed It’s easy to use, with a video function to allow for a store still fun to shop for fragrance and I’d encourage you to experience at home, which our customers are responding do so, because the stores will be delighted to see you. well to. Innovation is going to be key.’ And if you are unable to venture out because you are Over in the heart of East London, meanwhile, Columbia still shielding, be cheered that stores are innovating and Road is home to the charming Angela Flanders, a fragrant improving their online offers to make better connections to but tiny store, run by the late perfumer-founder’s daughter you – because rest assured, they really miss you.

44 THE scented LETTER As we’ve seen ourselves, home sampling is becoming hugely important – so look out for our second THE NEW RULES FOR FRAGRANCE Perfume Society box SHOPPING: A QUICK GUIDE collaboration with Harvey Nichols, coming soon #1 BE PATIENT Plan ahead, ring the store to find out what their policy around visiting is and book a time slot if it helps. Remember there may be queues, so be patient and download a couple of good fragrance podcasts (check out our recent recommendations on the website) to listen to while waiting in line.

#2 SHOP SLOW You may find yourself the only person in the store and the staff are very likely to be thrilled to see you, but testing is a more laborious, with staff in charge of spraying, so take it slow and relish the extended experience.

#3 ONLINE AND OFFLINE ARE MERGING The future of fragrance service is online, even if it’s taking brands a while to realise this. Do Last year’s remember that The Perfume Society’s Find-a- The Perfume Fragrance online tool can also help you find Society x Harvey Nichols’ your next perfume, without leaving home. collaboration box #4 YOU’RE SAMPLING AT HOME Independent stores often offer great sampling services for you to try at home. Discovery boxes are nothing new for regular readers of The Perfume Society, but stores and brands are offering increasingly innovative versions.

#5 YOUR CONVERSATIONS WILL BE VIRTUAL Social media is where you are likely to encounter your next new fragrance, so make sure you are following your favourites.

#6 SUSTAINABLE STILL COUNTS Of course it does, possibly even more so after the pandemic has made us realise how fragile the world can be. Check your labels, check the packaging, check what’s inside the bottle and check their websites to see what brands are doing to improve sustainability.

#7 EXPECT ‘LIFESTYLE AND LOCAL’ Fragrance is coming to a local store near you, as fragrance brands take their product to where customers are. That means your local lifestyle or fashion boutique, possibly even your local art Angela Flanders gallery. Good news for everyone. Bleu de Chîne pop-up

THE scented LETTER 45 AN AROMATIC LIFE

MEMORIES, DREAMS, REFLECTIONS CARINE ROITFELD is a fashion world legend. After 10 years as the rule-breaking editor of French Vogue, she left to start her own brand, which debuted with a collection of fragrances

What’s the very first thing you What was the first fragrance you The smell that always makes me remember smelling? bought for yourself? feel a bit sad is… Borscht (a Russian beetroot soup), in my Raspberry extract from an Indian shop. L’Heure Bleue, because it reminds grandmother’s kitchen. The smell was me of all the losses in my life. so strong, although my grandmother’s Have you had different fragrances for fragrance, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, was different phases of your life…? The scent that I love on a man is… even stronger. I also remember the I started with that raspberry extract, vetiver. smell of the hairspray in my mother’s then Eau Vive. Depending on the hair – most probably Ellnett. boyfriend at the time, I wore Dior Eau The scent I love to smell on a Sauvage and Guerlain Habit Rouge. woman is… orange blossom. When did you realise that scent was My next scent was Fracas, by Piguet; it really important to you? was hard to find at that point, and I The fragrance from the past that Very early on, when I realised it was used to get it in the US. Then I moved I’ve always wanted to smell is… closely linked to memory. Later, I onto YSL Opium for Men, and for still with us: it’s Chanel No.5, became aware of the importance of almost 20 years, YSL Opium layered because it’s a fantasy, and also sillage, or the trail you leave behind with Serge Lutens Fleur d’Oranger. because of all the stories and you. I like the idea that people That was my first fragrance ‘creation’. advertising that have been linked recognise me by my scent, in the Nowadays I wear my own with it, through the years – from elevator, in the office, so they know I fragrances, of course, which are Mademoiselle Chanel to Catherine was there, and left. named after real and fictional men: Deneuve and Marilyn Monroe. Aurélien when I am in Paris, George in What’s your favourite scented flower? the summer, and Sebastian when I am What is your favourite book about Lily of the valley, traditionally given in with my photographer friend fragrance? France on 1st May for good luck. Sebastian Fanea. Le Parfum by Patrick Süskind.

What was the first fragrance you The smell that always makes me feel Find Carine Roitfeld’s fragrances at were given? happy is… the aroma of coffee first net-a-porter.com and harrods.com; Carven Eau Vive. thing in the morning. read more at perfumesociety.org

Carine Roitfeld’s first venture, after French Vogue: fragrances named after men she’s known or admires

46 THE scented LETTER Carine’s five favourite smells

1 INCENSE IN A RUSSIAN

CHURCH

2 PARSOL PINES They are such

a unique smell of the South of France.

Top: Carine’s favourite 3 CASABLANCA LILIES In the scent book. Above: her fresh first scent. Right: hallway of the Carlyle Hotel in Carine’s grandma wore New York. L’Heure Bleue

Catherine Deneuve in an vintage ad. for Chanel No.5, such an enduring icon of the scent world

4 LEATHER I love the smell

of the leather interior of an English car, because it’s like an invitation to a great party.

5 SKIN The scent of a

body after bathing in the Mediterranean. It just captures the sense of summer.

Carine’s first smell memory – beetroot soup – and her favourite flower, lily of the valley

THE scented LETTER 47 FIRST WHIFFS latest launches Dozens of scents that have been unleashed in recent weeks, after ‘perfume’s great NEW pause’. Here’s the low-down ✶

The Sharing Collection offers fabulous scents that can be worn and enjoyed by everyone, plus two fab ‘unisex’ body treats. Find it at perfumesociety.org/SHOP, price £23 (£19 to our VIPs). Among others, you'll enjoy... ● ATELIER DES ORS LUNE FÉLINE ● BDK PARFUMS SEL D'ARGENT ● EIGHT & BOB EGYPT ● GOLDFIELD & BANKS BOHEMIAN LIME ● GOUTAL EAU D'HADRIEN ● INITIO REHAB ● ROOK PARFUMS UNDERGROWTH

THE FRAGRANCE FAMILIES

As scentophiles know, fragrances fall into different ‘families’. So we’ve used the same classification system for launches as on our perfumesociety.org website. Just look for the coloured strip above the name of the perfume, which is your visual clue to the families. These are listed below. Most of us are drawn to a specific family/families: once you know which you fall into, that colour can act as a cue – and help you take a short-cut to the ones you may want to try first.

ORIENTAL

FLORIENTAL

CHYPRE WOODY

FLORAL

GOURMAND

FRESH FOUGERE

48 THE scented LETTER AESOP AMOUROUD ÅND FRAGRANCE Rõzu Sunset Oud Sånd

You can wait a long time for a new The shimmering succulence of yuzu A new venture by Simon Constantine Aesop fragrance – but in the case of infused with camphoraceous rosemary (formerly of Lush), who has created Barnabé Filllion’s play on rose, this was feels like a welcome mist of droplets fragrances with sustainability and definitely worth it. Designed to spritzed on tobacco flower’s petals. ethical sourcing to the fore. Sånd ‘articulate the full lifecycle of the rose’, Forget all notions of oudh being a celebrates sandalwood, working with inspired by the outdoorsy life and heavy cloak: this is a gauzy veil of the producer Dutjahn (winner of the work of modernist designer Charlotte white vetiver that swirls intriguingly to UN Equator prize), using distilled Perriand, this very shareable green lavender, layered with gently smoked ‘deadwood’ so no living trees are woody-floral creation does indeed amber, a nuzzle of that oudh and a depleted. Cardamom-flecked banana, take you from a rose’s dew-drenched white leather that begs to be stroked. rich labdanum and benzoin feel like a unfurling through to its almost dusty Cleverly captivating and beautifully warm hug, infused with smokiness and fading moments, enshrouded in a nuanced, it’s yet another reason to a touch of black pepper. Memorable, bonfire smokiness. explore this house. long-lasting and very, very comforting. £130 for 50ml eau de parfum £166 for 100ml eau de parfum £35 for 10ml eau de parfum libertylondon.com ab-presents.co.uk andfragrance.com

ANINE BING AQUA DOS AÇORES ART DE PARFUM Pure Noir Azul Le Joker

In a take on rose that feels laced with If Turner could have bottled one of his What a multifaceted character this one mystery yet still exudes a lightness, tempestuous seascapes, this would is! There’s a sense of a traditional black Baccarat rose is entwined with surely be it. Storm-tossed seas and fougère about the opening – timur papyrus atop the deeper mahogany wind-whipped, salty strolls are pepper’s bouquet of bitter herbs sheen of spicy saffron and guaiac thrillingly evoked by this new ultra- among a lemony, frost-tinged wood in the base. Perfumer Rodrigo niche fragrance house (and vineyard), freshness. A backstage pass to a Flores-Roux has created a fragrance now exclusively stocked in the UK by dressing room brings illicit love letters that’s unapologetically sensual but Roullier White. Billowing with natural and lipstick kisses; motes of face carries itself with subtlety. Designer extracts of sap-laden cryptomeria (a powder caught in the curls of a Anine Bing was inspired by that conifer in the cypress family), geranium cigarette’s smoke, the effervescence moment when you book into a hotel Bourbon, clary sage and lentisl, it feels of passionfruit touched by salty tears somewhere new and feel the world is jauntily adventurous and head- of ambergris. You’ll be ready for your ‘…ripe with possibility.’ clearingly fresh. close-up wearing this, for sure. 169 euros for 75ml eau de parfum £75 for 50ml eau de parfum £114 for 50ml extrait de parfum

ALL STOCKISTS CHECKED AT TIME OF PRESS BUT DUE TO COVID-19 CHALLENGES THESE MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE TO BE SUBJECT THESE MAY CHALLENGES COVID-19 TO DUE TIME OF PRESS BUT AT CHECKED STOCKISTS ALL aninebing.com roullierwhite.com artdeparfum.com

THE scented LETTER 49 ATELIER COLOGNE ATELIER MATERI BERDOUES Love Osmanthus Santal Blond Guaria Morada

The gender lines are well and truly After 12 years working in fragrance for A welcome dose of chicly rendered blurred here, with a fragrance swirled other brands, Véronique Le Bihan has exoticism from this consistently with narcotic ssmanthus that is pitched poured her passion for sustainability brilliant house via Brazilian orange, by Atelier Cologne as being ‘unisex’, into Atelier Materi, which is ‘committed ylang ylang, amyris, pear and and composed of 93% natural to empowering women’, with an patchouli (and how extra-cheering materials. (We’ve noted more and emphasis on fair trade and environmental are the ingredient-illustrated bottles more that perfume houses are sharing wellbeing. What this means for us is a to look at, right now?) Perfumer with us the percentage of naturals in quintet of scents, each showcasing a Mylene Alran conjures blue skies and their blends.) Alongside peachy- specific star ingredient – in this case, a sun-warmed skin at the time we need creamy osmanthus, you’ll have your smooth, caressing, smoky play on it most. Even if we can’t gasp at olfactory interest piqued first by sandalwood, cardamom, jasmine and painterly sunsets and shake the sand lemon, before the new-pencil-case tonka, tapping into the wood’s from our toes, wearing this is akin to woodsiness of American cedarwood. famously spiritual powers. drowsy dreams of better days. £55 for 30ml Cologne Absolue £195 for 100ml eau de parfum £80 for 100ml eau de parfum feelunique.com lessenteurs.com ab-presents.co.uk

BJORK & BERRIES CALVIN KLEIN CAROLINA HERRERA September Eternity So Fresh Good Girl Suprême

For many of us, autumn is our Christy Turlington reprises her role as If you’re anything like us you’ll have favourite season: mists, mellow the face of Eternity – and this time, been living in slippers of late, so how fruitfulness, bonfires, crisp mornings. her co-star is real-life actor husband glamorous to reach for a spangled Deftly, the nature-focused Swedish Edward Burns. (Handy to have the stiletto – even if only in perfume flacon brand’s latest captures all of that, via two models in a ‘bubble’ of their form! Tonka bean really is having a bright fruits of pomelo and kumquat, own, at a time when on-set moment (no wonder, being sweetly aromatic lavender and eucalyptus, smooching breaks social distancing addictive and creamily comforting) petals of apple blossom and jasmine, rules.) Bestselling Eternity is breezily and the self-confidence abounds from woven through with the smokiness of uplifted by pear, bergamot and the first spritz when it’s generously vetiver, papyrus, guaiac wood and blackcurrant, rendered smouldering swagged by delicate posies of jasmine the sweetness of pink praline. We’re via skin musks and amber. Do watch and tuberose. We know many dreaming of toffee apples round a the commercial, too, to rekindle your collectors of these bottles who’ll be crackling fire, all snuggled up in this. faith in happy-ever-afters. stepping up. £85 for 50ml eau de parfum From £35 for 30ml eau de toilette £55 for 100ml eau de parfum bjorkandberries.com lookfantastic.com theperfumeshop.com

50 THE scented LETTER CAROLINA HERRERA CARTIER CHANEL CONFIDENTIAL Coco Mademoiselle Saffron Lazuli La Panthère Pure Parfum L’Eau Privée

Showcased in the most stunning The many fans of Mathilde Laurent’s Turn down the lights. Draw the flacon inspired by lapis lazuli – a feline Panthère will rejoice that not curtains. L’Eau Privée is unabashedly stone which is ‘a timeless emblem of only is this contemporary classic designed to be worn at night – success, sophistication and luxury’ – Chypre now available in its most ‘sprayed in an enveloping gesture those are all words which could intense form yet, as an exquisitely before bed’, as Chanel put it, though equally apply to this gem of a juice. skin-lingering parfum (above), but we don’t think an evening slumped Showcasing saffron and blackcurrant, it’s also now layerable, via a solid in front of Netflix was quite what rose and orris on an exquisitely perfume and a fragrant hand cream. Olivier Polge had in mind. The structured foundation of guaiac Radiant as ever, the sensual floral woods have been downplayed, wood, vanilla and leather, Saffron star note of gardenia billows even allowing both the freshness of Lazuli has us longing to cast off our more sexily here, amplified by mandarin and the pillow-y softness PJs and zip ourselves into a proper osmanthus. Apply to pulse-points of jasmine, rose and white musks to frock, at last. and perfect your prowl. take centre stage. Just dreamy. £235 for 100ml eau de parfum £125 for 75ml parfum From £67 for 50ml eau de parfum harrods.com harrods.com chanel.com

CHLOE DIOR DIPTYQUE Rose Tangerine J’adore Eau de Parfum Othoniel Rosa Infinissime

Close your eyes and imagine François Demachy puts an exquisite So here’s the story behind the limited bending toward a rose bathed in spin on Dior’s iconic white floral edition Othoniel Rosa’s unusual name: sunshine, reaching out and bringing masterpiece, with its bouquet of Jean-Michel Othoniel is a French artist, the bloom close, taking a deep Centifolia rose, ylang ylang, lily of the author of The Secret Language of breath… Ahhh, yes, that’s better – valley and tuberose – here, amplifying Flowers about the hidden meanings of now we sense fruity, freshly unfurled that most sensual and suggestive of the Louvre museum’s flower paintings. petals (no heavy dustiness, here) and Grasse-grown flowers, a stem of which In tribute, a rose breeder named a new the tangy brightness of blackcurrant. can perfume a whole room. Honeyed, introduction ‘the Othoniel rose’, a Dry, woody cedar and white amber creamy, addictive, this is J’adore’s spicy bloom now incarnated in scent fluff a featherbed landing for your most intense, dance-till dawn version form by Diptyque, its petals shot reverie, and while we snuggle, let’s yet, refreshed by a twist of pink through with pink peppercorn, gaze at the so-pretty blush of peppercorn and blood orange, softened ambrette, vetiver and Akigalawood (an tangerine ribbon adorning the bottle. by sandalwood. Femininity, bottled. airier patchouli note). Très belle. £65 for 50ml eau de toilette From £84 for 50ml eau de parfum £120 for 100ml eau de toilette johnlewis.com dior.com diptyqueparis.com

THE scented LETTER 51 ÉDITIONS DE PARFUMS DUSITA ERIS PARFUM FRÉDÉRIC MALLE La Pavillion d’Or Portrait of a Lady Green Spell

Self-taught perfumer Pissara Umavijani Of course this isn’t ‘new’, exactly. Antoine Lie worked for two years on is proof that you don’t always have to POAL has been stopping strangers in ERIS’s sixth fragrance, launched via have attended ISIPCA to confect their tracks for two decades, sparking online crowd-sourcing platform scents that are very special – in thousands of ‘What are you wearing?’ Indiegogo. Living up to its green Dusita’s case, inspired by Pissara’s conversations. For a limited time, it’s promise, vibrant Italian mandarin is father’s philosophical poetry, and her available in this special edition bottle squeezed over succulent blackcurrant Thai heritage. Honeysuckle garlands – one of seven Frédéric Malle absolute, with Iranian galbanum and citrus mints, boronia, green fragrances whose 20th birthdays are Egyptian violet leaf absolute evoking frankincense and white thyme, celebrated this autumn. Its rosiness is florist’s shop snapped stalks and mellowing to an almost lickable base accented by berries, sandalwood, sap-drenched blooms. Dusky narcissus of vanilla, spicy rum, oak and patchouli, musk, amber and benzoin and fig leaf drape the shadowy base, sandalwood. We’d happy take up – unchanged, unmistakeable and and tomato leaf shines with residence in this ‘golden pavillion’. utterly unforgettable. photorealistic phosphorescence. £218 for 100ml eau de parfum £245 for 100ml eau de parfum £150 for 50ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com fredericmalle.com erisparfums.com

GIORGIO ARMANI GOUTAL GUERLAIN My Way Les Temps des Rêves Iris Torréfié

Carlos Benaïm and Bruno Jovanovic As we daydream of pre-quarantine Guerlain’s L’Art & La Matière series gathered armfuls of exquisite white travel, Goutal’s latest effortlessly spotlights especially precious raw flowers for Armani’s biggest launch in whisks us to the sun-drenched Med on materials – in this case, Iris pallida, years: light-filled, radiant, modern. But a breeze of orange blossom absolute, already a cornerstone of Guerlain it isn’t just the free-spirited, so- neroli, bergamot and myrtle. Annick creations from L’Heure Bleue to feminine fragrance itself that is of Goutal herself began her training in Shalimar. As they put it: ‘A symbol of note, but the way it reflects Giorgio Grasse; now, Camille Goutal and protection and wisdom, in perfumery, Armani’s sustainability commitment, Isabelle Doyen revisit the landscape of iris remains one of the most delicate through an innovative refillable and a thousand bitter orange trees and and precious scents in existence.’ Here, recyclable flacon and the sourcing of Provence’s characteristic aromatic Guerlain’s virtuoso perfumers temper vanilla through a programme that trees and scrubland, introducing iris’s signature powderiness with a jolt benefits local communities. We sandalwood and a bran absolute note of coffee that renders it contemporary, believe we’ve smelled the future. for a pashmina-like, cocooning finale. exciting and very, very chic. From £55 for 30ml eau de parfum From £75 for 50ml eau de toilette £185 for 75ml eau de parfum armanibeauty.co.uk harveynichols.com guerlain.com

52 THE scented LETTER HEELEY JACK JO MALONE LONDON Zest de Gingembre Richmond Fig & Lotus Flower

Whoosh! If you’re having a sluggish Of the many and varied Instagram Live Part of the ‘Lost in Wonder’ collection day, here’s a scent to make you feel Q+As we filmed over the summer and inspired by ancient hanging supernaturally refreshed from the very (which can be viewed on our YouTube gardens, get ready to be beguiled by first spritz. A mélange of mouth- channel), the hour spent with Richard the milky plumpness of figs, beautifully watering lemon and lime is grated E. Grant was probably the most enlivened by the sunshine-in-a-bottle onto a cocktail of natural ginger joyous. His irrepressible exuberance is happiness of neroli. The green accord – not the fiery dryness we captured once again in his fourth Jack juiciness and brightness afforded by sometimes encounter in fragrances, fragrance, with Alienor Massenet that neroli cuts through any notes that but a less aggressive, aquatic take that conjuring up the actor’s verdant might have otherwise become too warms the cockles, nonetheless. With Thames-side stomping ground via creamy to feel refreshing, and make the heat enhanced by a tingle of pink ginger, clary sage, moss, labdanum, this a pleasure to wear in any season. pepper, then tempered by cooling cedarwood and cade oil. Once Wonderfully unisex, too, we feel, and cardamom, joy abounds. spritzed, you’ll be back for an encore. of course, so layerable. £125 for 100ml eau de parfum £95 for 100ml eau de parfum £100 for 100ml eau de Cologne lessenteurs.com jackperfume.co.uk jomalone.co.uk

JULIETTE HAS A GUN L’ORCHESTRE PARFUM LALIQUE Lipstick Fever Bouquet Encore Les Compositions Parfumées Glorious Indigo

Is there anyone who doesn’t love the Continuing their series of ‘fragrances As part of their series celebrating the ‘Mummy’s handbag’ smell of a luxe to smell and listen to’, L’Orchestre mastery of synthetic notes (the lipstick? We’ve yet to meet them. Parfum’s inspirational music this time is backbone of modern fragrance since Capturing precisely that in liquid form techno-inspired. Perfumer Pierre- the 1800s), Lalique are ‘inspired by the is Romano Ricci’s latest, with a slash of Constantin Guéros weaves an alchemy of perfumery, jewellery and iris, violet absolute and raspberry ultraviolet bouquet of glowing white crystal-making’, with perfumer softening to the woodsiness of flowers that throb with a mellow Clément Marx creating a cool burn patchouli and cedarwood, chosen to undertone of Madagascan vanilla, airy (because ‘blue can be the hottest echo the leather interior of a handbag, Ambroxan, spicy pepper and euphoric colour’) of cinnamon and ginger before the comforting sweetness of musk. The effortless harmony floats juxtaposed against the creamy vanilla slowly emerges as it warms on around you – the kind of fragrance to rosiness of Javanol, papyrus and the skin. As for the suitably scarlet reach for when you want to feel patchouli, with soft woods in the base flacon? Mwah, mwah! fragrantly supported, held aloft. and an overall air of quiet confidence. From £85 for 50ml eau de parfum £129 for 100ml eau de parfum £190 for 100ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com ab-presents.co.uk lalique.com

THE scented LETTER 53 LANCÔME LANCÔME La Vie Est Belle En Rose MAISON CRIVELLI Idôle L’Intense Happiness Drops Iris Malikhan

A stellar trio of Shyamala Maisondieu, Couldn’t we use some bottled An exploration of innocence unfurling Nadège le Garlantezec and Adriana happiness right now? Lancôme are into something altogether more sinful, Medina combined talents for this doing their best with a trio of darling, the opening lulls us with a gentle ‘tribute to the innate beauty of downsized, be-ribboned La Vie Est stroke of freshness via galbanum and inspiring women’. (We suggest they Belle flacons, filled either with the cypress, followed by a tickle of incense hold up a mirror, for inspiration.) Rose original fragrance, or La Vie Est Belle and pink pepper and just a hint of hot, and jasmine star in the ‘white Chypre’, Intensément or this rosiest variation musky skin in the coriander. The heart which fuses two patchouli elements, of the three, with its ramped-up purrs of powdery, woody, strawberry- one extraction of this earthy note rosepetal power, peony and iris. As tinged facets of iris – a surprising revealing accents of cocoa and they put it: ‘Sometimes a single fruitiness amplified by blackcurrant leather. Smoothed by a balsamic smile, a single drop of perfume can absolute, licked with lentisque, softly vanilla, the result’s surprisingly airy, illuminate your day’. (But we’ve snarling into an animalic base of while lingering smoochily on skin. always known that, haven’t we?) mimosa-infused leather. From £54 for 25ml eau de parfum £28 for 15ml eau de toilette £175 for 100ml eau de parfum lancome.co.uk lancome.co.uk harveynichols.com

MARC JACOBS MEMOIZE LONDON MEMOIZE LONDON Perfect Ghzalh Isla Rose

Marc Jacobs’s mantra: ‘I am perfect The result of a twelve-month From the all-natural house that as I am’ is expressed in one word collaboration between Memoize celebrates deeply-held scent tattooed on his wrist: ‘Perfect’. London and Middle Eastern travel memories, here’s an invitation to Now here’s a way to wear it on influencer, Ghzalh Wedhawia, this reflect on the purity of ‘unconditional yours via an unexpected clash of limited edition gets pulses racing by love’, as they put it. Kick off your shoes rhubarb and daffodil smoothed by contrasting warm maple and crisp and wander a garden path strewn with almond milk in the heart. A bergamot, a delicious opening that bushes of ripe, red berries into the snuggle-soft base of Cashmeran trickles into tart, almost leathery welcoming warmth of the floral heart, and cedar swathe you in comfort, liquorice and the sophistication of in which exuberant jasmine is and during the online launch party, shady vetiver. Smoky guiacwood, entwined with creamy magnolia. Marc told us he adores the idea of swirled into an amber-rippled creamy Wrapped in the amber-rich trail, all genders wearing this ‘as a tonka base creates a fragrant trail we’d supple leather and silky vanilla swathe scented hug of self-care.’ be happy to follow around the world. oudh’s throbbing base. £69 for 50ml eau de parfum £197 for 100ml eau de parfum £197 for 100ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com selfridges.com selfridges.com

54 THE scented LETTER MIHAN AROMATICS MORESQUE MUGLER Munlark Ash Secret Collection Tubereuse Angel Nova

Nothing seems so bad after a good Taking inspiration from the notorious A sheer, fresh floral take on the iconic walk, and if you don’t happen to live courtesan, spy and exotic dancer, classic, this iteration twists ripe near a breathtaking landscape, Mihan Mata Hari, you might have just walked raspberry and succulent lychee with Aromatics will transport you there, into her dressing room – thick velvet petal-soft damask rose atop a darker fragrantly. Travelling to Australia, we curtains obscuring the daylight, a huge base of Akigalawood and resinous experience crushed leaves and fir vase of voluptuous tuberose on the benzoin. Definitely one to try if you needles, loamy earth and cypress tree table, exuding its carnal delights. The clutched your pearls and backed sap – a concoction created to feel like narcotic allure is ramped up even slowly away from the original scent ‘a remedy of morning air inhaled further with heady lily and heavenly – it’s a very pretty fragrance that feels deeply.’ Spaciousness, a sense of ylang ylang on a smouldering, perfect to wear when you want quietude and time to just ‘be’ is incense-laden base. Whatever your something characterful yet transparent buoyed by verdant botanicals, precious secrets, you’d spill them for a enough to let your own personality rendered magnificently. bottle of this perfume… shine through. AUD $220 for 100ml eau de parfum £115 for 75ml eau de parfum £53 for 30ml eau de parfum mihanaromatics.com harrods.com theperfumeshop.com

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NOÈME PARIS PERFUMER H Patchouli Musc Kalahari Cucumber

Perfumer Jordi Fernandez weaves a Named after the African desert, the Cucumbers don’t come any cooler new spell from the modern classic, opulence of this creation from an than this: an airy Cologne which has at that instantly recognisable signature exciting new Parisian fragrance house its heart a perfectly balanced accord of white musk accord drifting through the more precisely evokes the opulence of cucumber sap and green woods, dappled shade of Indonesian a bustling spice market, to us, hazy composed with Lyn Harris’s minimalist patchouli and patches of sunlit with saffron, cardamom, incense. flair. This haiku of a scent also features jasmine. The season of drowsy, Labdanum delivers aromatic, resinous bergamot, watermelon and lemon rind, honeyed sunshine and distant drifts of warmth, while cedar and musk tether cedarwood, vetiver and musk – clean, woodsmoke is welcomed with the fragrance. If you imagine yourself outdoorsy and honestly mouthwatering, tempting russet tones of cider apple staring out over the sand dunes as from Lyn Harris’s latest collection, and vanilla atop the rustling dried bright stars fade into dawn, this will which recreates in olfactory form some patchouli leaves in the base, in the still be making its presence deliciously of her favourite epicurean delicacies. most mellow yet addictive version yet. known, on skin. Utterly delicious, all of them. £140 for 100ml eau de parfum £180 for 100ml eau de parfum From £110 for 50ml eau de parfum At Harrods (from 1st October) harrods.com perfumerh.com

THE scented LETTER 55 PERFUMER H SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SARAH BAKER PERFUMES Pear Tuscan Creations Cupola Flame & Fortune

This feels like a nod to the finest The magnificent dome dominating A soft opening for such a strident tradition of French perfumery, harking the skyline of Florence inspires an name, a petitgrain piquancy sashays back to when women made olfactory ode by perfumers Antoine into the room with an air of pilgrimages to perfumeries, wearing Lie and Luca Maffei. Softly nuanced insouciance and apricot lip gloss. But their finery, with the intention of tangerine and green angelica are lit wait; there’s something sizzling, and finding a new scent. (You could do by golden saffron – a reference to the soon a ginger-spiked tuberose begins worse than plan exactly that around a first rays of sunshine that bathe the to bloom, a hip-swinging confidence trip to Lyn Harris’s Marylebone cupola. Dusty orris and amber invite that grows exponentially and feels boutique, actually.) In other words, us inside, the echoing majesty of the subtly sinister in the best of ways. bottled sophistication, via mandarin, cathedral itself, while labdanum, a Amber flames lick the insatiably bergamot, white pear, white iris and rich trickle of patchouli and sacred smouldering mezcal base with hints of rosewood, with a sprinkling of sugared woods evoke the chilled splendour of sweetly burned rubber. The getaway musk and vanilla. Just so, so pretty. the contemplative space. car after a bank heist, perhaps? From £140 for 50ml eau de parfum £195 for 100ml eau de parfum £80 for 50ml eau de parfum perfumerh.com harrods.com sarahbakerperfumes.com

STRADA PARFUMERIE TOM FORD VALENTINO Via Veneto Black Orchid Parfum Voce Viva

A capsule collection of four unisex There are going to be some super- Celebrating unique femininity fragrances marks the launch of this excited perfumistas at news that Tom expressed through individualism, this new house. Their mission? To capture Ford’s bestselling signature fragrance evanescent bouquet is radiant with some of the world’s most famous is now available as a parfum. ‘To me, it white flowers. A burst of instant locations in olfactory form. Here, the is the perfect flower… luxurious, happiness with the golden orange spirit of Rome is spritzed in a cloud elegant, pure and sophisticated,’ Mr. blossom borne aloft on a fresh breeze of jasmine, iris, tuberose, neroli and Ford says of the bloom which inspired of bergamot and mandarin, the gilded rose – refined, standing slightly aloof this narcotic blend of ylang ylang, gardenia beckoning us further to a perhaps, but definitely a scent your bergamot, black truffle, dark florals, mossy base that’s redolent of soft nose wants to know; and the dry- rich fruits, patchouli, incense and woods, transparent musk and a feeling down of ginger-tinged woods and sandalwood. Check out the gilded, that you can accomplish anything. amber-swathed cypriol is quite limited edition purse-sized travel One to spritz when the doldrums hit simply bellissimo! spray, too. Double-swoon. hard and you need prettiness, pronto! £90.62 for 30ml eau de parfum £98 for 50ml parfum £110 for 100ml eau de parfum stradaparfumerie.com tomford.co.uk valentino.com

56 THE scented LETTER VINES HOUSE PARFUMS WORLD OF WIMSETT YARDLEY Voyage Circe 250 For Her

Instilling a spirit of adventure Gifted artist Frederick Wimsett has Celebrating 250 years of their wherever you may travel (even if it’s unveiled his first, gender-free heritage, this fragrance is part of a only in your imagination currently), fragrance, a floral-woody-Oriental limited-edition duo, and here ‘the this is will give the courage to face creation intended to conjure up ‘a strength and empowerment of the anything with aplomb. Pineapple and stroll on a sun-baked Greek island.’ contemporary woman’ is recognised Earl Grey tea hint at exotic Hand-blended with hyacinth absolute with English lavender – a nod to destinations, while apple and jasmine alongside 100% natural essential oils tradition – in the top notes, resting hum harmoniously in the heart. A that include cedar, vetiver, coriander, on a tart cassis and citrus accord and dusting of luxurious orris with the sandalwood and patchouli, it’s named a generous bouquet of lily, jasmine, comfort blanket softness of oakmoss, after Circe, Homer’s sorceress/ neroli and rose. Donating 1.5% from oudh and ambergris in the dry-down goddess, who used her magic to this fragrance to cancer support make this all but indispensable in the transform the world around her. If only charity, Look Good Feel Better, it current unsettled clime, we reckon. we had Circe’s powers, right now. smells great while doing good, too. £75 for 50ml eau de parfum £30 for 30ml eau de parfum £25 for 100ml eau de parfum vhparfum.com frederickwimsett.com yardleylondon.com

YVES SAINT LAURENT YVES SAINT LAURENT YVES SAINT LAURENT Capeline Jumpsuit Libre Intense

Not a strange name at all for a Another new introduction to what is The original Libre intentionally fragrance, once you understand Yves literally ‘a designer fragrance ‘retailored’ for women a traditionally Saint Laurent’s Le Vestiaire des wardrobe’, this pays homage to a masculine family, the fougère – just as Parfums collection sets out to short evening jumpsuit which first Yves Saint Laurent tore up the gender interpret iconic designs from the appeared in 1968, a dashing spin on a rulebook with his couture. For this designer’s oeuvre – here, the groovily utilitarian design whose femininity is tawny-hued new spin, Master wide-brimmed hats of which the echoed here via mandarin, bergamot, Perfumers Anne Flipo and Carlos couturier was so fond. Bergamot and peony, magnolia, jasmine, mandarin, Benaïm return, intensifying the mandarin make for a bright with sandalwood and a peach accord fragrance’s orange blossom and introduction to sweet yet elegant also elegantly strutting their stuff. The lavender facets via an orchid accord floral notes of lily, neroli and ylang black caps of Le Vestiaire flacons, which now blooms at its pulsing ylang, with musk and vetiver meanwhile, mirror the grain de poudre heart, adding a drift of smoky vetiver sashaying in, for the end of the show. texture of YSL’s famous tuxedo fabric. in the base. Cool yet hot, all at once. From £155 for 75ml eau de parfum From £155 for 75ml eau de parfum £84 for 50ml eau de parfum harrods.com harrods.com yslbeauty.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 57 THE MEN’S ROOM

ACQUA DI PARMA AMOUAGE AMOUROUD Colonia Futura Black Iris Man Himilayan Woods

Adding weight to the sustainable Pierre Negrin brings his olfactory A fresh fall of snow blankets the earth, scent movement is AdP’s newest: the talents to this complex reinterpretation smothering sounds and making first of their Colonia line to be created of Amouage’s original Interlude. The everything seem new. A whisper of with 99% natural ingredients, with clue is in the Black Iris name: it’s dark, cool cardamom presages the unfurling every aspect of the packaging it smoulders, it’s shot through with of soft spices – black pepper, juniper reassessed and rethought. But what intrigue, fusing bergamot, rosemary berry and clary sage freshened with a clinches any conversion to ‘eco’ and cool violet leaf with amber, sprig of lemon blossom. Melting into a products is that they’re as good as frankincense and cistus labdanum in heart of luxurious vanilla flower and anything customers bought before – in orbit around the fragrance’s real star, jasmine, the layers reveal themselves this case, a herbaceous fusion of orris. The dry-down of agarwood further – crystal clear guaiacwood and lavender, clary sage and vetiver, with smoke, patchouli, sandalwood and sheer incense with droplets of tonka sunlit shafts of grapefruit, bergamot, cedarwood beckon you deeper into bean, white amber, oudh, patchouli pink pepper and lemon. the shadows, lingering seductively. and musk. Transcendentally delightful. From £80 for 50ml eau de Cologne £260 for 100ml eau de parfum £175 for 100ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com amouage.com ab-presents.co.uk

BDK BRUNO FAZZOLARI BVLGARI Sel d’Argent Zdravetz Man Glacial Essence

Showcased in our box The Sharing Visual artist and perfumer Fazzolari All the exhilaration of climbing to the Collection, Sel d’Argent is from BDK’s showcases rare and expensive top of a mountain but with zero effort Collection Azur, capturing the zdravetz essential oil – sometimes (or crampons) required, Bulgari always shimmering coastal magic of the compared to rose or geranium, but far know how to awaken our senses in Med, with its clear blue waters – greener and woodier. (Imagine the scented form. Following their fragrant echoed in the flacon and a salty prince slicing his way through the exploration of the elements Wood and accord, further freshened by thorns to reach Sleeping Beauty’s Fire, this crackles in the form of an airy, grapefruit and bergamot. This is castle.) It balances the fizz of grapefruit frosted fougère. Piquant juniper more enduring than you’d expect and bergamot with leafy galbanum, berries make for a fairly traditional from that initial freshness, warmed in spicy Bulgarian rose oil, creamy leather opening, before a welcoming nuzzle its sunset moments by come-closer and passion fruit, with a veritable from the smoothness of sandalwood elements of Timebrsilk, Cashmeran, thicket of that zdravetz note weaving a and a transparent woody patchouli via Ambroxan and white musk. fascinating scented spell. crystalline Clearwood. £150 for 100ml eau de parfum £113 for 30ml eau de parfum £91 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com roullierwhite.com bulgari.com

58 THE scented LETTER CALVIN KLEIN DAVID BECKHAM GALLIVANT Eternity Fresh Bold Instinct Bukhara

The bottle is cool and green. Its face, Powerful, elegant, self-assured, Founder Nick Steward was inspired by Edward Burns, is cool and ‘green’ (he charismatic – those words could as the historic Silk Road and his travels and his Eternity campaign co-star wife equally be applied to the legendary around Uzbekistan – a vision translated Christy Turlington are long-term David Beckham as to his latest scent, by Ralf Schwieger in swaggeringly supporters of the sustainability which swirls with earthy, spicy power. elegant, charming manner, with movement). And the juice for this new Juicy pineapple and herbaceous laurel caraway and spiced pear evaporating interpretation of classic Eternity is notes deliver the first hint of boldness, into an orris-filled heart tho evoke the distinctively cool and green, too, before the spicy warmth of nutmeg, chalk pale, sun-bleached colours of its outdoorsily breezy with aromatic notes cinnamon and cardamom is unveiled houses. Jasmine and clove nestle of lentisk (an evergreen shrub which in the heart. Bold Instinct’s conclusion alongside salty apricot and saffron- grows on the Greek archipelago), is seriously masculine, an interplay of speckled wood as cotton-soft musk Bourbon geranium, mosses and musk, amber and deep, dark fluffs the base; there’s an irresistible woods, revved up by ginger. patchouli. We’re hoping for extra time. stillness amidst the shimmering layers. £59 for 100ml eau de toilette From £19.95 for 30ml eau de toilette £65 for 30ml eau de parfum feelunique.com superdrug.com gallivant-perfumes.com

GIVENCHY JO MALONE LONDON JUSBOX Gentleman Boisé Cypress & Grapevine Night Flow

As anyone with even the rudiments of The inspiration behind JML’s Lost in Continuing their clever series of French will glean, this is a woodier Wonder collection is just so musically-inspired fragrances, with interpretation of Gentleman, designed seductively romantic, with a nod to the perfumer Julien Rasquinet as their to ‘heighten the sensuality of any ancient Hanging Gardens of Babylon, ‘master of ceremonies’, JUSBOX offers gentleman’. A supremely elegant ‘a place of fabled beauty lovingly a vibrant cocktail of saffron, raspberry blend of black pepper, coriander, created by a gallant king for his wistful and pink pepper that seamlessly moreish cocoa and sophisticated iris queen under the blazing sun…’ So segues into the darker floral heart of smoothly segues into the here we have towering notes of fruity osmanthus, smouldering davana sandalwoodiness of the base, to be cypress, garlanded by trailing and hypnotic jasmine sambac. When wrapped in an Oriental accord. grapevine, with amber for warmth and the base kicks in with a salty lick of Warning: only to be worn around smoochiness. The more masculine of ambergris atop patchouli, leather and those from whom you don’t need to the two new Cologne Intense tolu balm, you’ll be lost in the rhythm socially distance. launches – but awfully borrowable. of this fragrantly alluring flow. From £59 for 50ml eau de parfum From £82 for 50ml Cologne Intense £140 for 78ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com jomalone.co.uk selfridges.com

THE scented LETTER 59 THE MEN’S ROOM

LALIQUE LALIQUE L’ORCHESTRE PARFUMS Les Compositions Parfumées Les Compositions Parfumées Electro Limonade Imperial Green Woody Gold

Close your eyes and inhale, letting Verdant greenery rendered luxurious Asked to ‘imagine yourself in a Nathalie Feisthauer’s fragrance take in Lalique’s inimitable style, here’s palace,’ perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui you ‘to a terrace overlooking the another celebration of modern, melded the burnished warmth of Mediterranean Sea at sunset, with a man-made perfumery notes. Ambramone to the smooth leather of “chill out” cocktail in hand.’ Mixing Perfumers Nathalie Lorson and Julien Lorenox, choosing ‘a palette of fizzing citrus and mint, capricious Plos ‘explore orange blossom from golden notes, from sunny citrus fruit rhubarb and orange blossom sway to every angle’, co-distilled with a secret to creamy vanilla, along with a blend a groove along with amber wood, molecule to amplify its fresh facets. of potent amber woods that smell as incense and Haitian vetiver. Aromatic Meanwhile, Ambrox adds the warmth radiant as sunlight.’ Touched with electronica can be heard in the of skin, sun-dried hay and long tonka bean and swirled with vanilla, accompanying musical track (accessed shadows in flower meadows, anchored the world itself seems gilded as via a QR code), with laidback vibes by rooty vetiver essence and pared- Woody Gold warms and you radiate resonating into the early hours. back Patchouli Heart. its liquid lustre. £129 for 100ml eau de parfum £190 for 100ml eau de parfum £190 for 100ml eau de parfum ab-presents.co.uk lalique.com lalique.com

LOUIS VUITTON MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN PACO RABANNE Météore Homme À La Rose 1 Million Parfum

To quote creator Jacques Cavallier A rose by any other name, perfumer Fans of the blockbuster original are Belletrud: ‘Here, freshness is not only Francis Kurkdjian has done it again: bound to like this, but don’t expect a a starting point; it becomes a major interpreting a classic note in repeat performance; this is a stunning vector, a backbone around which all streamlined, contemporary yet still evocation of soft leather infused with a other elements orchestrate and romantic form. A whoosh of surprisingly salty tuberose. Naysayers interlace.’ A definite get-your-mojo- grapefruit accord bursts forth the of that narcotic note, please unclench back introduction, with Tunisian neroli, birth of the Damask rose, like your teeth: it’s creamily rendered, but the zing of several citruses rendered watching a sped-up scientific film of perfumers Quentin Bisch and even more nose-tingling by a cocktail the bloom unfurling. Fuzzy sage and Christophe Raynaud have leaned of spices and a trio of peppers, plus a amber woods awaken the Centifolia handsomely into the savoury aspect. specially-distilled vetiver that exhales now, a honeyed sigh of cistus drying Smoky, sensual, sophisticated, with a ‘fresh, zesty notes of grapefruit and to a base that evokes soft leather – or sillage that lasts all day. We’re stealing damp soil.’ Completely magnetic. perhaps the memory of a kiss. this for our own collection. From £200 for 100ml eau de parfum £180 for 70ml eau de parfum £54 for 50ml parfum louisvuitton.com johnlewis.com escentual.com

60 THE scented LETTER PENHALIGON’S SARAH BAKER STRADA PARFUMERIE Brilliantly British Bascule Sloane Street

‘As if swaying lavender had been If ever a fragrance were going to With a tagline of ‘from the streets to plucked from a sleepy English garden, lead you astray, this could be it. the world’ these fragrances invite and frozen on the spot,’ is This is ruthless seduction travel via your nose. Here, we’re Penhaligon’s description here. But executed in the most refined sauntering along London’s Sloane here’s the twist: frozen lavender – manner, as succulent peach juice Street, a fuzzy cloud of soft oudh evoked by lavender oil, together with drips onto hot leather and rich countered by the sense of a freshly its olfactive near-relation lavandin – tobacco strokes warm hay. There’s starched, immaculate white shirt. Hot has been dipped in sweetness, via a enough cleanliness to render it fit tarmac sweetness swirls with motes of toffee accord which is further mellowed for wear beyond the bedroom, dust borne on a cool breeze, turning by resinous cistus labdanum and but only just: lily of the valley and the corner from warm stone into benzoin. Dapper as it gets – and we’re cut grass evoke the cleanliness of sudden shady depths. The base is completely seduced by the Brilliantly a bath, following a torrid tumble beautifully leathery – supple, British flag adorning the neck. in the stables. strokeable, nonchalantly expensive. £144 for 100ml eau de parfum £80 for 50ml eau de parfum £140.73 for 30ml eau de parfum penhaligons.com sarahbakerperfumes.com stradaparfumerie.com

TAUER TOMMY HILFIGER YARDLEY Phtaloblue Tommy Impact 250 For Him

Daydreaming of stretching on a ‘For those who dare to dream and Via a duo of limited edition fragrances Mediterranean sun-lounger? Yes, us those who strive to do so’, setting out celebrating their 250 year history, too. Happily, maverick perfumer Andy to empower ‘the next generation of Yardley tip their hats to Cologne- Tauer is going to take us there via his visionaries.’ Ergo the halls of every uni inspired citrus notes and a hint of their latest fragrance. Phtaloblue is a brisk in the country ought to be filled with iconic English Lavender, shot through walk beside the sea that mellows into the scent of this woody-aromatic, with with the piquancy of tart cassis and an elegant aquatic citrus that has fruity red apple, grapefruit, bitter pimento berries. The woody base none of the brashness and over- orange, bergamot, pink peppercorn lends a contemporary air that feels developed muscles we might and coca leaf fading to an aromatic effortlessly classy, a laid-back associate with the 90s iterations of this fusion of clary sage, labdanum, insouciance that doesn’t try too hard. much-maligned genre. Think photo- cypress and elemi, before a strong, For everyday, pocket-friendly realistic blue skies, bright white linen woodsy dry-down of cedarwood, pleasures, this new duo deserves to suits and a salty, herbaceous breeze. amber, musks and Akigalawood. become everyone’s go-to. £105 for 50ml eau de parfum From £41 for 50ml eau de toilette £25 for 100ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com theperfumeshop.com yardleylondon.com

THE scented LETTER 61 IT TAKES ME RIGHT BACK Nafia, aged two, wearing a sari in her dadu’s garden I LOST MY FATHER in April this dadu’s garden. The air becomes heavy, year to Covid-19, suddenly and humid and electric, the promise of a unexpectedly. He was my anchor in this heavy storm in the air. Once the rain world and without him, I feel totally comes, the air becomes alive with the unmoored and bereft. One thing that scent of lush greenery, earthy soil going “grounded me in the aftermath was from parched to wet and muddy. We my nose. I adore nostalgic smells; would run to the roof to dance in the I love how with one giant sniff, the pouring rain or sit on her barindah dusty cobwebs that drape the surfaces (porch) and watch the rain lashing down. and crevices of our scent memories The scent of flowers always lingered, are blown away and the unearthed especially after rain where bruised petals memories can stop us would scatter the dead in our tracks. ground, mixing with I buried my face the smell of petrichor. into the collar of the The scent of the huge jacket he last wore, his jasmine bush would scarf and woolly hat. Night-blooming make itself known when I can close my eyes the sun went down. and instantly conjure After eating nashta up his scent, a mix of jasmine (afternoon tea), my the hair pomade he cousins, siblings and wore and Astral cream. Cancer research scientist and fragrance illustrator I would retire for Other smells acted NAFIA GULJAR shares poignant memories the evening to the as a painful reminder barindah where we of my loss: crisp, triggered by an exotic flower would bring out all refreshing watermelon, the board games, ripe, fragrant mangoes usually Ludo and and the soothing mint tea we both liked to drink before bed. Carrom [a tabletop game like snooker]. My dad would The smell that has pervaded my memories however, one that often join us and regale us with tales of his younger years threads its way through my past, present and future, is the of being a formidable Carrom player. The night-blooming gloriously heady scent of white flowers, jasmine in particular. jasmine would unfurl and release its treasured fragrance, Having come to the UK aged four, I don’t have many weaving through the window slats and impregnating the air memories of my early years in Bangladesh. We revisited in around the house with its heavenly scent. Jasmine became 2005, 11 years after leaving, for an emotional reunion with my synonymous with times that were more relaxed and easier, grandparents and family. As our car weaved through dense a little slice of paradise, playing board games in my dadu’s Dhaka traffic, I marvelled at how familiar the air smelled. house surrounded by my loved ones. Nothing prepared me for the déjà vu I experienced walking Years later, standing in Fenwick, Tom Ford’s Jasmin into my dadu’s (paternal grandmother) garden, the jasmine, Rouge managed to transport me straight to that barindah, tuberose, hibiscus, the sugar cane and so many other fruits as I deliriously lapped up its notes of jasmine, tuberose and flowers I had no name for yet but instinctively and buttery ylang ylang. There are so many elements in remembered the smell of. Jasmin Rouge which remind me of my beloved I read a poem titled ‘A Portable Paradise’ father, of my four grandparents, of my by Roger Robinson recently which started dadu’s barindah, of borsha (monsoon), ‘And if I speak of Paradise, then I’m of rajani gandha (tuberose), korobi speaking of my grandmother’, and for phul (frangipani), joba phul (hibiscus), me, the smell of paradise is my dadu’s ghandaraj phul (gardenia). And above garden. We stayed for eight weeks all, sheuli phul – that night-blooming and I greedily absorbed every bit of jasmine. Following my father’s death, my motherland I could, from happily and having lost all my remaining wearing salwar kameez every day to grandparents over the years, smelling speaking Bangla to my family, even Jasmin Rouge now is equal parts when my cousins wanted to practice painful and pleasurable; it fills my their English with us. heart to the brim with both Visiting during the monsoon season happiness and sadness. I wouldn’t heightened the sensory experience of my have it any other way. “ The jasmine would release its treasured fragrance, weaving through” the window slats and impregnating the air with its heavenly scent.” MISHRA/DREAMSTIME © MANORANJAN

62 THE scented LETTER Tonkade by Laboratorio Olfattivo

The new fragrance available exclusively in store and online at pulseofperfumery.com