PORTOVENERE ITALY he ancient town of Portovenere looks T as if a brilliant impressionist painting has come to life. This romantic sentiment may not have been shared by those defending or assaulting the town over the past 1,000 years. However, today it can be said with relative cer- tainty that there is little chance of an attack by the Republic of Pisa, Saracen pirates, barbaric hordes or French Emperors. In other words, relax, have fun and enjoy your day in lovely, peaceful Portovenere. HISTORY With a population a little over 4,000, Portovenere is a small, Portovenere was founded by the Romans in the 1st century medieval town. It was built and defended by the Republic of Ge- BC. Known as Portus Veneris, it was built upon a promon- noa for nearly 800 years. This hilly point of land stretches north tory which juts out into the sea. As the empire slowly disinte- along the coast of the famous “Cinque Terre”. The town’s near- grated, Portovenere came under the eventual control of the est neighbor is the city of La Spezia, just east, around the cor- Byzantines. King Rothari of the Germanic Lombards took ner of the “Gulf of Poets”. So named for the great writers who the town, along with much of rest of Italy, the in the mid- praised, loved, lived and died in this beautiful region of Liguria, 600s. if they are somehow lost in time, Petrarch and Dante, Percy The struggle between the great Maritime Republics of Ge- Shelley and Lord Byron will forever be remembered here. noa and Pisa often caught little Portovenere in the middle. The historic center of Portovenere is a UNESCO World Heri- From the mid-1100s through the late-1200s Genoa expand- tage Site. The narrow streets and alleys are closed to traffic ed the town’s fortifications and defenses while Pisa contin- and perfect for exploring on foot. As visitors come ashore they ued to attack them. Saracen pirates were also a constant will see the tall, colorful houses which line the waterfront. The threat. pedestrian promenade is relatively new because in centuries A short distance across the water from Portovenere are the past the homes along the harbor were built to the water’s edge three small islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. During and formed the town’s first line of defense against attack from the Middle Ages a number of monasteries were built on the the sea. Today the expanded waterfront has many shops and islands. During times of peace the Catholic cloisters helped cafés which cater to visitors from around the world. to attract pilgrims to Portovenere. Before you step through the ancient gate of the city and be- Over the centuries the Italian Republics, France, Spain gin your exploration of Portovenere … look up, just above the and the Catholic Popes were continually at odds with each keystone of the arch. Nearly one thousand years ago, on the other. Portovenere came under heavy bombardment from orders of the great Maritime Republic’s magistrate, a humble, a mighty Aragonese fleet in 1494. Though the town did Italian mason picked up his hammer and sharpened his chisel. not fall, Portovenere suffered heavy damage. Warfare had He carved Latin script in stone; “Colonia Januensis 1113”. You changed and what the town now lacked in terms of military will see the words when you reach the city gate of beautiful value it began to make up for in commercial shipping. Portovenere, “Colony of Genoa since 1113”. With the coming of Napoleon, in the early 1800s the nearby port of La Spezia began to overshadow little Portovenere. Perhaps that was a good thing because the town retained much of its medieval charm and flavor. The barbarians, Byz- 2 1 Tourist i Information 5 4 6 antines, Saracen pirates, Pisans and Genoese of yesteryear The Church of St Peter was dedicated in 1198. Another would easily recognize, be warmly welcomed and feel right 4 church had been there for the previous 500 years. This at home in today’s beautiful Portovenere … as long as they is the site from whence Portovenere gets its name. Located behave themselves. at the end of a short, rocky peninsula, the church is believed to stand on the foundation of an ancient Roman temple dedi- PLACES OF INTEREST cated to the Venus. The church was a gift from the Republic Calata Doria is the town’s waterfront. With a perfect view of Genoa to the citizens of Portovenere for their vigorous de- 1 of nearby Palmaria Island and all the boats bobbing in the fense of the town. The view from the church is spectacular. harbor, this is a wonderful promenade lined with tall, colorful Lord Byron’s Grotto (Grotta dell’Arpaia) is near the houses, restaurants, shops and cafés. It is a great place to 5 Church of St Peter, at the end of the peninsula which take a stroll, browse for souvenirs, enjoy a meal or relax with leads out from Portovenere. Though most of the ancient grot- a cappuccino. to is now in ruins, with jagged cliffs and the turquoise Ligurian Doria Castle looms over Portovenere like a dark and Sea, it remains a beautiful site. The grotto took on the name 2 dangerous storm cloud. That was exactly what the Geno- of the famed English poet who loved to swim and relax here ese had in mind when they began construction in 1161. From in the 1820s. high upon the hill, the walls of the castle form the town’s de- Palmaria Island is just across the water from Portove- fense. The view of the town and surrounding sea are fantastic 6 nere. It is easily accessible by small boats which take and have changed little from when soldiers and local people visitors back and forth from the waterfront. A number of hik- sought the protection of its mighty bastions. The castle and ing trails and narrow roads make their way around the island. small museum are open to the public. There are wonderful views of Portovenere, the Gulf of Poets St. Lawrence is a Romanesque style church built by the and the surrounding sea. There are a few little restaurants 3 Genoese beginning in 1098. The church is believed to and some nice, small beaches on the island. rest upon the foundation of a Roman temple dedicated to Ju- piter. Damaged by fire and cannon balls, the church has been repaired and restored numerous times over the centuries. Beyond Portovenere a great deal of hard work over the centuries to terrace the hillsides. Gathering the harvest has always been labor inten- Lerici is a beautiful town, about an hour’s drive around the coast, on the far side of the Gulf of Poets. The town is a sive and challenging. One of the region’s most popular wines beach-lover’s playground and has one of the most interesting is Sciacchetrà. It is a sweet, golden-colored, desert wine, castles in the region. Lerici became the village of choice for pressed from sun dried grapes. This particular wine has been many 19th century English writers. a favorite since the days of the Roman Empire. Cinque Terre, the “Five Lands”, is justifiably famous as one SHOPPING FACILITIES of the most stunningly beautiful coastal regions in all of Italy. There are nice little shops and street vendors along the har- The “Five Lands” actually refer to the five little villages which bor front and scattered throughout Portovenere. The town is are sprinkled like jewels along the steep, rugged coast from safe, compact and it’s virtually impossible to get lost. Explore Portovenere to Monterosso al Mare. Hiking trails stretch the the narrow streets which date to the Middle Ages. You will dis- length of the coast and the views are unsurpassed. Ferries cover hidden gems around every corner. Hand-painted glass depart from Portovenere and make round trips to the towns and ceramics are among the beautiful, locally produced prod- of Cinque Terre. ucts. Well-made Italian clothes and the region’s famous olive oil are also popular. SHORE EXCURSIONS To make the most of your visit to Portovenere and the sur- LOCAL CURRENCY rounding area we suggest you take one of our organized The unit of currency in Italy is the euro (€). Most stores accept Shore Excursions. For information concerning tour content major credit cards. and pricing, consult your Shore Excursion Brochure or con- tact the Shore Excursion Desk. When going ashore, be ad- TOURIST INFORMATION vised to take only necessary items and secure any valuables A Tourist Information Office is located in the Piazza Bastreri. onboard. A Post Office is located at #133 Via Capellini. LOCAL CUSTOMS TRANSPORTATION Attire: Shorts and tank-tops are not recommended, especially It is easy to walk around in Portovenere. Cars and taxis are when visiting local churches. restricted from much of the historic town. Taxis and busses Bargaining: Most items have fixed prices, but it may be pos- are available if you wish to travel to La Spezia. The ferries are sible to get a discount on a large purchase. Some vendors very popular and the ride provides a wonderful view of the may bargain, except for food items. coast. The ferries connect Portovenere with La Spezia, Lerici, Tipping: Generally a 10% service charge is added to restau- the Gulf Islands and the villages of Cinque Terre. rant bills, however, as this amount does not all go to the wait- USEFUL WORDS AND PHRASES er, it is normal to offer them a 5% tip in addition to any service charge.