Holly Richardson [email protected] www.journeysofdreams.com 480-447-9977

HAVANA DESTINATION GUIDE

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Havana is one of the world's most beguiling cities, one seemingly caught in colonial and 1950s time-warps. Old Havana, or Habana Vieja, is an amalgam of historic structures, cobbled plazas, castles, cathedrals and classical mansions that date back centuries from the height of Spanish international power. In fact, Havana's core is unrivaled in the Americas for its legacy of historic buildings, although many buildings are now in various states of dereliction; others have been renovated and serve as museums, hotels and restaurants.

Beyond the old city core in Havana, the mid-20th-century enclave of Vedado teems with hotels and nightclubs that still maintain their 1950s atmosphere. They are set alongside gracious, century-old mansions of the long-departed well-to-do of Havana. Plaza de la Revolucion hosts Cuba's government buildings. Farther afield, visitors to Havana will find the Museo Hemingway and the glorious beaches of Playas del Este.

Although Havana's physical attractions are reason enough to visit, travelers often go to Havana to experience the unique, almost surreal, amalgam of socialism and sensuality unique to Cuba. Five decades of communism have not been kind to the city of Havana, much of which is dilapidated. At times, the lives of Havana's inhabitants can be truly depressing. But the graciousness and joie de vivre of the Havanans shine through—especially their vivacious love of music and dance, which adds to the city's enigmatic travel appeal.

The city is now in the midst of a reawakening thanks to President Raul Castro's economic reforms and the presence of more and more U.S. travelers.

Note: Havana sustained serious damage during Hurricane Irma in September 2017. Recovery will take months or even years. Travelers should investigate current conditions prior to planning a visit.

Sights—Cobbled Plaza de la Catedral, with its exquisite cathedral; the Capitolio Nacional, Havana's former Congress building; the forts of Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana; the colonial buildings on Plaza de Armas and Plaza Vieja; the fascinating tombs of Cementerio Colon.

Museums—The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, showcasing Cuban and international art; the Museo de la Revolucion, telling the events of the Cuban Revolution; the Museo de la Ciudad, full of precious antiquities from Havana's past; Hemingway Museum, preserving the novelist's former home.

Memorable Meals—Divine pizza at La Chucheria; anything off the nouvelle Latino menu at La Guarida; delicious roast chicken in orange sauce at El Aljibe; splendid ice cream at Coppelia; the spectacular view from the rooftop La Torre.

Late Night—The Tropicana nightclub's Las Vegas-style cabaret; joining Havana's intelligentsia at the Gran Teatro for a performance of Ballet Nacional de Cuba; salsa dancing at Salon Rojo.

Walks—Explore the cobbled plazas of Habana Vieja; walk the length of the Malecon; stroll along the Prado or the tree-shaded streets of Vedado.

Especially for Kids—Dolphin and sea lion shows at the Acuario Nacional; a steam-train ride around Parque Lenin; beautiful sands and warm waters at Playas del Este. Havana is located on the northwest coast of Cuba, just 90 mi/145 km south of Key West, Florida. Most tourist attractions are in Old Havana (Habana Vieja), the colonial city laid out during the 16th and 17th centuries in a grid on the west bank of Bahia de la Habana. Old Havana extends west from the bay to the Prado, a broad, tree-lined esplanade beyond which lies the 19th-century residential area of Centro Habana, inland of the seafront boulevard called the Malecon.

Farther west is Vedado, a former middle-class zone that still functions as the center of business and nightlife. Fading hotels from the 1950s still stand there, rising over grandiose art-nouveau mansions and art-deco apartment complexes. The neoclassical university is there, as is the Cementerio Colon, full of flamboyant mausoleums. Vedado's tree-lined boulevards extend beyond the Rio Almanderes to Miramar—a 20th-century grid of once-noble mansions and modernist homes, many now occupied by foreign embassies. Ritzy modern hotels also have risen there in recent years, alongside the Miramar Trade Center. Miramar extends into the upscale residential areas of Cubanacan and Siboney, location for the city's convention center and biogenetic engineering industries, respectively, plus the hidden-away homes of Cuba's government elite.

Sprawling and tumbledown working-class regions extend for miles/kilometers south of the city. To the east lie the historic areas of Regla and Guanabacoa, both centers of the Afro-Cuban Santeria religion. Beyond lies Alamar, a region of post-revolutionary high- rise apartments separating the city from the pleasant beach area of Playas del Este.

Founded in 1519 by Spanish conquistadores on the shores of a flask-shaped bay, San Cristobal de la Habana was ideally situated for growth. Spain's Treasure Fleet of the Americas assembled there for the twice-annual journey to Spain, and the city grew wealthy from shipbuilding and provisioning. Vast profits from sugar production and the slave trade added to the economy. Great castles were built to protect Havana from pirates and foreign invaders.

Nonetheless, the English seized Havana in 1762, opening the city to international trade, although they held it for only one year. Havana remained Spain's "Pearl of the Antilles" until 1898, when the U.S. intervened in the Cuban wars of independence by declaring war on Spain and thus gained possession of the island under the Treaty of Paris. Cuban nationalist Jose Marti led the independence cause and is today considered Cuba's national hero.

In 1902, the U.S. granted Cuba independence—but it also wrote Cuba's constitution and controlled a string of presidents in ensuing decades. Havana witnessed phenomenal growth as U.S. investment poured in, and Havana became a playground for U.S. tourists. Corrupt government, the presence of U.S. mobsters, and epidemic poverty fostered revolutionary movements that culminated on New Year's Eve 1958, when Gen. Fulgencio Batista fled Cuba and Fidel Castro seized power.

After Castro gained control, the city experienced an economic decline. In 1961, U.S. President John F. Kennedy enacted a trade embargo that is still in place. By 1967, the Cuban government had seized or closed all private businesses. Despite massive amounts of aid from what was then the Soviet Union, Havana's infrastructure began to crumble, and Eastern Bloc vehicles replaced U.S. autos. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, residents were forced to endure severe food shortages and electricity blackouts. Most citizens bought and sold on the black market to survive, and many still do.

In 2014 President Barack Obama re-opened diplomatic ties with Cuba, while also loosening restrictions on travel to the country. The subsequent spike in tourism has saved much of Havana from dereliction. The city's architectural legacy spanning early Spanish Colonial to 1950s modernism has been preserved thanks to a remarkable restoration project that has given much of Old Havana a facelift. Historic sites, plazas and hotels have been restored and a world-class convention center built. However, parts of Havana beyond the central districts remain largely dilapidated, with crumbling infrastructure and pot-holed streets.

In June 2017, President Donald Trump signed an executive order reversing a number of Obama-era reforms. However, embassies will remain open and direct commercial flights and cruises from the U.S. to Havana will continue to operate. For U.S. travelers, the order suspends self-certification under the people-to-people exchange program, meaning U.S. citizens will be required to travel with a licensed tour company in the company of a guide. Travelers who qualify under the existing 12 categories permitting travel to Cuba are likely to face tighter scrutiny of their activities. It remains to be seen what effect, if any, these changes will have on local tourism.

Location

Since 2015, Cuba has featured as a destination for most major U.S.-based cruise companies. In 2016, Fathom became the first American-owned cruise line to sail between Miami and Havana, opening the door to a host of others, including Royal Caribbean, Norwegian, Oceana and Carnival. Sailings are offered to Americans under a people-to-people license designed to encourage cultural exchanges. It remains to be seen whether President Donald Trump's June 2017 executive order, which limits such travel, will have an impact on demand. The modern Terminal Sierra Maestra cruise port has two piers opening onto Plaza San Francisco, on Avenida Carlos de Cespedes, and modernization of adjacent piers to accommodate more cruise ships continues. Passengers disembark onto the cobbled streets of Old Havana, with all the main sights within a short stroll. There's a tourist-information booth nearby, on the corner of Calle Obispo and San Ignacio. Taxis are readily available. Passengers can also rent cars there, although they may need to take a cab to the nearest pickup point. However, sometimes no cars are available because of short supply.

Guided city tours give a sense of Havana's history while taking in the main sights. Walking tours of Old Havana are recommended. Popular excursions include visits to Ernest Hemingway's former home, the Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana, an open-top sightseeing tour of Vedado and Plaza de la Revolucion, the canonazo ceremony and the Tropicana nightclub for late-night stopovers.

Potpourri

In 1957, Mafia boss John Traficante reportedly set up a "honey trap" for then-U.S. Sen. John F. Kennedy with three girls in a special suite of the Hotel Comodoro, which had a two-way-mirror—but then forgot to film the scene, and the blackmail scheme fell flat.

Che Guevara was president of the National Bank of Cuba 1960-61. The no-longer-circulating banknotes that bear his signature are popular souvenirs and sell very well on eBay. Ironically, Guevara wanted to eliminate money entirely.

Tapping two fingers on the opposite shoulder or the nose is a coded warning that a state informant is present.

Around 1950, Havana had no fewer than 270 brothels, most notably La Marina, frequented by Graham Greene (author of Our Man in Havana). All were closed after the Revolution.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

Visitors should concentrate their time in Old Havana. Its narrow, congested, delightfully intriguing cobbled streets are best explored on foot. Begin your tour in Plaza de Armas, where the main sites include the Castillo de la Real Fuerza and the Palacio de los Capitanes-Generales. Walk south along Calle Oficios to Plaza San Francisco and follow Calle Muralla west to Plaza Vieja, lined with restored colonial buildings. Continue north along Calle Mercaderes, making a stop at the Maqueta de la Habana (a scale model of the old city). At Empedrado, turn left into Plaza de la Catedral, which is dominated by the antique cathedral.

After sipping a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio, just off the plaza, retrace your steps to Calle Obispo. Following this bustling thoroughfare west, you arrive at Parque Central. At the end of Obispo is El Floridita, where Ernest Hemingway formerly enjoyed his daiquiris. Don't miss the Capitolio and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes before strolling north along the Prado. Turn east at Calle Refugio for the Museo de la Revolucion. After learning about the Cuban Revolution, continue east along Calle Cuarteles and turn right at Calle Tacon, which leads past the Seminario San Pablo y San Ambrosio and returns you to Plaza de Armas.

A stroll along the length of the Malecon by day or night also will give you a taste for the range of Cuban life. You'll want to tour Vedado, including the Plaza de la Revolucion and Cementerio Colon—full of fascinating tombs and mausoleums. To explore farther afield, you'll need a car. To the southeast of the city lies San Francisco de Paula, where Ernest Hemingway's former home —Finca la Vigia—is preserved as a museum. A visit to the Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana is also a must. The best time is early evening; you can then dine in or near the restored castle before witnessing the canonazo—the firing of a cannon, performed every evening at 9 pm by soldiers in period uniform.

Note that opening times in Cuba are generally unreliable and subject to frequent and unannounced changes.

Historic Sites

Capitolio Nacional Paseo de Marti Note: The Capitolio Nacional is closed for restoration; it will reopen as the venue for the Cuban National Assembly. Commissioned by dictator Havana, Cuba Gerardo Merchado and modeled on the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C.—but slightly taller—this late-1920s edifice of luminous white limestone and granite served as Cuba's Congress building until the revolution. Imposing marble steps lead up to a series of columns flanked by elaborate bronze statues. Since 1959, it has housed the Cuban Academy of Sciences and the National Library of Science and Technology. Once re-opened, tours of the building will no longer be permitted. Paseo de Marti (between Martin and Dragones), Centro Habana, Havana.

Castillo de la Real Fuerza Plaza de Armas Built between 1558 and 1577 and now the oldest existing fort in the Havana, Cuba Americas, this small bastion opens onto the harbor channel to the north and Plaza de Armas to the southeast. Spanish governors lived there Phone: 7-864-4488 until 1762, protected by cannons and the glistening moat. The bell tower contains a bronze weather vane—La Giraldilla de la Habana—that is the symbol of the city. The original dates from 1632 and is now in the Museo de la Ciudad. The figure, which appears on the Havana Club rum label, is believed to represent Dona Ines de Bobadilla, the wife of gold explorer Hernando de Soto, who never returned from his excursion to the Mississippi River. The building now houses the Museo de Navegacion—an excellent naval museum recalling the era of treasure fleets and piracy. This must-see venue glitters with gold doubloons and silver artifacts recovered from the sea, plus early colonial weaponry and scale-model ships. Daily except Monday 9:30 am-5 pm. CUC3. CUC5 for camera use, CUC5 for video use. Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-864-4488.

Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana Commanding the tip of the headland at the entrance to Havana's harbor, this medieval-style fortress dates from 1589 and was built to Havana, Cuba protect the city from pirates and foreign invaders. Its impressive location Phone: 7-863-7941 offers fine views of Havana and the Atlantic. Cannons are still in place atop the multitiered batteries, but they couldn't prevent the British from capturing El Morro from the landward side in 1762. You can climb to the top of a lighthouse (erected in 1844) for an extra CUC2, and there's a museum on Cuban lighthouses and castles. Daily 8 am-8 pm. CUC6 adults. Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana, Morro-Cabana, Havana. Phone 7-863-7941.

Catedral de la Habana Plaza de la Catedral Boasting an exquisite baroque facade, this stone structure framed by asymmetrical bell towers dominates the intimate, cobbled Plaza de la Havana, Cuba Catedral. It was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini and Phone: 7-861-7771 begun in 1748 by Jesuits, but their expulsion from Cuba in 1767 delayed completion until 1787. The fairly simple interior features several faded frescoes and noteworthy statues. The remains of Columbus were interred there 1795-1898 before they were shipped to Seville. Monday- Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-2 pm. Free. Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-7771.

Cementerio Colon Calzada de Zapata Dating from the 1870s, this cemetery spans 140 acres/55 hectares. It features one of the world's pre-eminent collections of embellished Havana, Cuba mausoleums, tombs and gravestones. The list of Cubans buried there Phone: 7-830-4517 ranges from chess masters and baseball legends to politicians and revolutionary heroes. La Milagrosa, to which miracles are attributed, is not to be missed (at the corner of Calle 1 and Calle F). Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm. CUC5 (includes a guided tour conducted in English; tips welcome). A guidebook with a detailed map (CUC5) can be purchased at the entrance. Calzada de Zapata (corner of Calle 12), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-830-4517.

Edificio Bacardi 261 Monserrate A remarkable example of art-deco architecture, this multitiered high-rise (completed in 1929) was once headquarters of the Bacardi rum Havana, Cuba company. The pink granite edifice is trimmed with terra-cotta tiles and is topped by the Bacardi bat. Visitors can pop up to the mezzanine to admire—and eat at—an elaborate bar (Cafe Barrita) adorned with fine authentic art-deco detailing. The best view of the building is from the azotea (rooftop) of the nearby Hotel Plaza. 261 Monserrate (corner of San Juan de Dios), Habana Vieja, Havana.

Fabrica de Tabacos H. Upmann and Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas Calle Belascoain 852 The world-renowned Partagas cigar factory is tucked behind the Capitolio and has been making cigars since 1845. Montecristos and Havana, Cuba Partagas are among the well-known brands made inside the four-story Phone: 7-878-1059 colonial structure arranged around an atrium courtyard. The building was closed in 2012 and production was moved to a 1950s industrial building in Centro Habana, in the immediate vicinity of the former Fabrica Romeo y Julieta, where the workers of the equally closed Fabrica de Tabacos H. Upmann have also found refuge. You can now visit both factories on a guided tour. The more spacious Fabrica de Tabacos H. Upmann is by far the best facility, as visitors can walk amongst the rollers. Tickets are available from any tour agency in major hotels. Guided tours Monday-Friday 9 am-1 pm. CUC10. Photography is strictly forbidden. Calle Belascoain 852 (Fabrica de Tabacos H. Upmann; between Penalver and Desague), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-878-1059.

Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana The largest Spanish colonial fortress in the Americas was built between 1763 and 1774 on the east side of Havana harbor to guard against land Havana, Cuba attacks. It measures 2,300 ft/700 m from end to end, across and area Phone: 7-862-4095 spanning 24 acres/10 hectares. Nobody ever dared to attack it, but nevertheless a lot of blood was spilled there. In the 19th century, Cuban patriots were imprisoned and executed there, then dictators Machado and Batista used the fortress as a grim prison, and shortly after the revolution Che Guevara used La Cabana as his headquarters and presided over firing squads that killed Batista's henchmen and many counter-revolutionaries. Fully restored, it is chock-full of attractions— watchtowers, a chapel, parade grounds, several museums and cannon batteries offering dramatic vistas of Old Havana. It also has restaurants, a cigar store and gift shops. Soldiers in period costume patrol by day. There is nightly firing of a cannon at 9 pm, known as the canonazo. Daily 10 am-10 pm. CUC6 (CUC8 after 6 pm, CUC1 for a guide). Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana, Morro-Cabana, Havana. Phone 7-862-4095.

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla Calle Santuario Nestled on the harborfront of Regla, on the eastern side of the bay, this Havana, Cuba intimate church features a gilt altar and saintly figurines. Residents go there in a steady stream to pray and to light votive candles to the Black Phone: 7-797-6228 Virgin of Regla, who in the Santer'a religion is associated with Yemaya, the orisha (spirit god) of the ocean and the patron of sailors (always represented in blue). Daily 7:30 am-5 pm. Free. Calle Santuario (between Maximo Gomez and Litoral), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- 797-6228.

Iglesia Parroquial de Espiritu Santo Calle Cuba 702 Dating from 1638 and rebuilt in 1674, the oldest of Havana's churches boasts an exquisite interior featuring murals. The re-constructed exterior Havana, Cuba dates from the mid-19th century and incorporates classical, Moorish, Phone: 7-862-3410 Gothic and Spanish styles. Be sure to descend into the vaults. Monday- Saturday 8 am-noon and 3-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-noon. Free. Calle Cuba 702 (corner of Acosta), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-3410.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis y Convento de Santa Clara Calle Oficios Venture into this former church and convent, rising over the Plaza de Havana, Cuba San Francisco, to admire the crypt, and the silverwork and other religious artifacts in the Museo de Arte Religioso. The church ceased to Phone: 7-862-9683 hold services in 1762 and today functions as a concert hall with great acoustics. You can climb the tower (allegedly the highest bell tower of Cuba) for a great view of Old Havana and the bay. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-6 pm. Coral and chamber music concerts are held Thursday-Saturday from 6 pm. CUC2 admission; CUC2 for camera use. Concert tickets range CUC3-CUC8. Calle Oficios (between Plaza de San Francisco and Muralla), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- 862-9683.

Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de Belen Compostela Taking up an entire block, this massive complex opened in 1718 as a Jesuit convent. It now functions as a community center and care home, Havana, Cuba as well as being host to a museum of astronomy and climatology that Phone: 7-860-3150 spans five floors. Monday-Saturday 8 am-5 pm. Free. Compostela (between Luz and Acosta), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-860-3150.

Malecon Centro Habana and Vedado This sinuous, 5-mi-/8-km-long boulevard fronts the Atlantic shoreline, connecting Old Havana to the Vedado district. Lively by day and night, it Havana, Cuba is a major gathering spot for residents, and most romantic at sunset. During bad weather, waves crash over the seawall—the cause of distressing deterioration of many buildings (notably in Centro Habana), at least one of which collapses every year. Monuments to Wars of Independence heroes Antonio Maceo and Calixto Garcia stand at the foot of Belascoin and Avenida de los Presidentes, respectively. Centro Habana and Vedado, Havana.

Monumento a Maximo Gomez Avenida del Puerto at Monaserrante Dominating the south side of the harbor channel is this huge monument Havana, Cuba to the Dominican-born general who led the Cuban Army of Independence in the late 19th century. The bronze figure of Maximo Gomez shown riding his horse stands atop a massive plinth featuring bronze bas-reliefs depicting important scenes in his life. Avenida del Puerto at Monaserrante, Havana.

Monument to the Victims of the Maine Malecon This dramatic structure (Monumento a las Victimas del Maine) erected Havana, Cuba in 1926 recalls the mysterious explosion of the battleship USS Maine in Havana harbor in 1898, which was used as a cause for the Spanish- American War. The American eagle that graced its top was knocked off after the Revolution. Malecon (between calles 17 and 19), Vedado, Havana.

Palacio de Capitanes Generales Dominating the west side of the Plaza de Armas, this somber three-story Plaza de Armas building dates from 1791 and was the residence of Spanish governors for 107 years. Later it served as the U.S. governor's residence and as Havana, Cuba Havana's city hall. The east-facing facade features a broad portico and Phone: 7-861-5001 lavish baroque engravings. The lush courtyard—roamed by peacocks— features several tombs of important nobles, as well as a white marble 1862 statue of Christopher Columbus. The rooms on the upper levels, sumptuously appointed with marble and gold leaf, contain important works of art, lavish antiquities and military costumes and armaments that comprise the not-to-be-missed Museo de la Ciudad (Museum of the City). Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm. CUC3, guided tour (also in English) CUC5. CUC5 for camera use, CUC5 for video use. Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-5001.

Paseo de Marti Habana Vieja Colloquially called the Prado, this broad tree-lined boulevard with a Havana, Cuba raised pedestrian central median was originally laid out in 1772 and was Havana's pre-eminent thoroughfare. Its present guise includes ornate marble benches and metal lampposts. Imposing buildings in a potpourri of eclectic styles—from neoclassical to art deco—rise on each side: the Hotel Sevilla (at Calle Trocadero) and the Palacio de Matrimonio (at Calle Animas) are two of the most prominent. The Prado is a favorite spot for skateboarders, local artists and for strolling residents. Habana Vieja, Havana.

Plaza de la Revolucion Paseo This vast square is surrounded by government ministries. It was built in the mid-1950s in monumentalist style and today serves as Cuba's main Havana, Cuba seat of government. Towering over the plaza, on the south side, is the 58-ft-/18-m-tall marble Monumento Jose Marti—its huge plinth houses a museum to the national hero. Mostly hidden from view on the south side of the monument complex is the Palacio de la Revolucion, the seat of the Cuban government and headquarters to the Council of State and Communist Party. On the north side, the facade of the Ministry of the Interior features a massive metal likeness of Che Guevara. Next door, the Ministry of Communications features a similar visage of revolutionary hero Camilo Cienfuegos, and below hosts a philatelic museum. Other structures of note include the 1957 National Library to the east and the National Theater (completed in 1960) to the west. Paseo (between Avenida Carlos de Cespedes and Avenida Rancho Boyeros), Nuevo Vedado, Havana.

Sanctuario de San Lazaro Carretera de San Antonio de los This 18th-century church and religious shrine is on the southwest Banos outskirts of Havana in the rustic village of Rincon. It is the nation's most important pilgrimage site: Weekends are the best time to visit, as is 17 Havana, Cuba December, when believers gather to honor San Lazaro. The sanctuary Phone: 7-683-2396 is also famous for its AIDS sanatorium. Daily 7 am-6 pm. Free. Carretera de San Antonio de los Banos, Rincon (22 mi/35 km southwest of downtown), Havana. Phone 7-683-2396.

Universidad de la Habana Calle L The classical-style University of Havana, loosely modeled on New York's Havana, Cuba Columbia University, is accessed by a broad flight of stairs—La Escalanita—that was the setting for violent clashes between students Phone: 7-878-3231 and police prior to the revolution. A dramatic statue of a seated student http://www.uh.cu is at the top of the steps. Visitors can, by request, see the Great Hall (Aula Magna) for the mural by Armando Menocal, as well as the Anthropological Museum and Museum of Natural Sciences. Monday- Friday 8 am-6 pm. The university is off-limits during July and August. Calle L (at San Lazaro), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-878-3231. http://www.uh.cu.

Fragua Martiana Calle Principe This small museum is set near the quarry where national hero Jose Marti labored in chains prior to being sent into exile in the late 19th Havana, Cuba century. He is there in bronze, wearing shackles, in a garden beside the Phone: 7-870-7338 rock face. The museum features documents, clothing and shackles. Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. Free. Calle Principe, Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-870-7338.

Hemingway Museum Calle Vigia and Steinhart Ernest Hemingway wrote several of his novels at Finca Vigia, his home for 21 years (1939-60). It is located on a hilltop on the southeast Havana, Cuba outskirts of Havana. The home and its contents have been painstakingly Phone: 7-691-0809 preserved with the author's collection of books, paintings (including http://www.hemingwaycuba.com several from Picasso) and furnishings. Guided tours are offered, although no one is allowed inside the house. Hemingway's sportfishing vessel, Pilar, can be seen on the grounds. Monday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Occasional closures for renovations; call ahead to confirm. CUC5 entry, CUC1 for guided tour in English. Calle Vigia and Steinhart, Havana. Phone 7-691-0809. http://www.hemingwaycuba.com.

Maqueta de la Habana 113 Calle 28 This 1:1,000-scale model of Havana shows every district, street and Havana, Cuba building, color-coded by age of construction. It gives a tremendous perspective of the city, which is enhanced by lectures. Tuesday- Phone: 7-206-1268 Saturday 9:30 am-5 pm. CUC3. Use of telescopes CUC1, guided tours CUC5. CUC2 for camera use, CUC5 for video use. 113 Calle 28 (between avenidas Primera and Tercera), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7- 206-1268.

Maqueta de la Habana Vieja 116 Calle Mercaderes Housed in a renovated 18th-century mansion, this 1:500-scale model of Havana, Cuba the colonial city shows every building in surprising detail, providing a splendid perspective of Old Havana. State-of-the-art lighting is used to Phone: 7-866-4425 highlight specific areas as guides give a historical review of the city's development. Daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm. CUC1 entry, CUC2 for guided tour. 116 Calle Mercaderes (between Obispo and Obrapia), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-4425.

Museo Casa Natal de Jose Marti Calle Leonor Perez 314 This charming, well-maintained colonial home is preserved as a national Havana, Cuba shrine. Jose Marti, leader of Cuba's movement for independence from Spain, was born there in 1853. A miscellany of memorabilia recalls Phone: 7-861-3778 Marti's life and ranges from a lock of his childhood hair to many of his original texts. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. CUC1 entry, CUC2 guided tour. Calle Leonor Perez 314 (corner of Avenida de Belgica), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-3778.

Museo de Artes Decorativas 502 Calle 17 Housed in a sumptuous beaux arts villa completed in 1927, the Havana, Cuba collection of colonial and early-20th-century antique furnishings in the Decorative Arts Museum is a testament to the wealth and ostentation of Phone: 7-861-0241 the prerevolutionary era, with fine furniture, select Persian rugs and French china from Sevres and Limoges. A highlight is the Oriental- themed bedroom featuring mother-of-pearl. Guided tours are included in the entry price. Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm, Sunday 9:30 am- 12:30 pm. CUC2 entry. 502 Calle 17 (between D and E), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-861-0241.

Museo de Jose Marti Plaza de la Revolucion This excellent museum is dedicated to the life of Cuba's foremost Havana, Cuba national hero. A separate gallery displays portraits of Marti. Other exhibits show the development of the Plaza de la Revolucion, most of Phone: 7-859-2351 which was laid out in the 1950s. A multitiered tower rises 360 ft/110 m above the museum—you can take an elevator to the observation platform for a panoramic view over the city. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. CUC3 entry, CUC2 for the observation platform. Plaza de la Revolucion, Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-859-2351.

Museo de la Campana de Alfabetizacion Ciudad Escolar Libertad, Avenida 29-E One of the few great achievements of the revolution—the Literacy Havana, Cuba Campaign—was initiated in 1961, resulting in the virtual elimination of illiteracy in Cuba. This small museum, on the grounds of the former Phone: 7-260-8054 Camp Columbia military facility, honors the accomplishment, when more than 120,600 students and teachers worked to achieve the goal. The tower in the form of a syringe in the center of the traffic circle honors Carlos Juan Finlay, who discovered the cause of yellow fever in 1881. Tuesday-Friday 8 am-3 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon. Free. Ciudad Escolar Libertad, Avenida 29-E (the entrance is at the junction of avenidas 41 and 100), Marianao, Havana. Phone 7-260-8054.

Museo de la Ciudad Tacon No. 1, Plaza de Armas Housed in the architecturally imposing Palacio de los Capitanes- Havana, Cuba Generales, the Museum of the City of Havana only loosely follows its namesake theme. Exhibits range from colonial calezas (horse-drawn Phone: 7-861-5001 carriages) to a miscellany of anti-Americana. Go for the regal antiques, the colonial armaments, sumptuous Throne Room (first visited by a Spanish king in 1999) and the mammoth-scale art pieces by Armando Garcia Menocal. Daily 9 am-6 pm. CUC3 entry, CUC5 for guided tour, CUC5 for camera use, CUC10 for video use. Tacon No. 1, Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-5001.

Museo de la Danza 365 Calle Linea Celebrating the history and evolution of dance, this museum in an art- Havana, Cuba nouveau mansion focuses on ballet and, in particular, the accomplishments of Cuba's Ballet Nacional. Many exhibits were donated Phone: 7-831-2198 by Alicia Alonso, the founder of the dance corps. Also remembered are many other dance celebrities, including Anna Pavlova and Isadora Duncan. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-6:30 pm. CUC2 entry. 365 Calle Linea (corner Avenida de los Presidentes), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7- 831-2198.

Museo de la Revolucion Calle Refugio When Batista was ousted, the lavish Palacio Presidencial was turned Havana, Cuba into a museum to honor the revolution, both prior to and after Batista's fall. The displays include armaments and blood-stained clothing. A Phone: 7-862-4091 separate room downstairs honors Che Guevara with a plethora of exhibits. The top floor is dedicated to the colonial history of Cuba and the independence wars, so it may be wise to start your visit there. The eclectic-style building, completed in 1920 with interior decoration from Tiffany, New York, features fabulous murals and paintings. The former garden displays warplanes, Soviet tanks and other relics of the revolution and Bay of Pigs, as well as the glass-enshrined Granma (the vessel aboard which Fidel Castro and followers arrived from Mexico in 1956 to launch the revolution). Daily 9:30 am-4 pm. CUC8 entry, CUC2 for guided tour, CUC2 for camera use. Calle Refugio (between Agramonte and Monserrate), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862- 4091.

Museo del Automovil 13 Calle Oficios This museum, one block east of Plaza de Armas, preserves more than Havana, Cuba two dozen antique and classic automobiles, from the oldest car in Cuba —a 1905 Cadillac—to the Rolls-Royce used by former president Phone: 7-863-4492 Gerardo Machado, and Revolutionary comandante Camillo Cienfuegos' 1959 Oldsmobile. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4:30 pm. CUC1 entry, CUC2 for guided tour. 13 Calle Oficios, Havana. Phone 7-863-4492.

Museo de Ron Avenida del Puerto 262 Telling the tale of rum production, from both historical and contemporary perspectives, this splendid museum enthralls visitors. Copper stills and Havana, Cuba vats bubble away within a real, albeit small, production unit, and a scale Phone: 7-861-8051 model of a sugar plantation (complete with miniature electric railway) https://havana-club.com/en- adds to the fascination. At the end of your visit, you are served a glass gb/content/museo-del-ron-cubano- of anejo (seven-year-old rum). The Havana Club Bar, on-site, has excellent mojitos. Museum daily 9:30 am-5:30 pm, bar daily 9:30 am- cuban-rum-museum midnight. CUC7 entry (includes a guided tour in English). Avenida del Puerto 262 (corner of Sol), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-8051. https://havana-club.com/en-gb/content/museo-del-ron-cubano-cuban- rum-museum.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: Cuban Section Calle Trocadero Astonishing works by Cuban artists spanning four centuries are Havana, Cuba displayed in a gracious 1954 modernist structure—the Palace of Fine Arts. Highlights include works by such modern masters as Wilfredo Lam Phone: 7-863-9484 and Raul Martinez, as well as those by leading painters and sculptors at http://www.bellasartes.cult.cu the forefront of contemporary art. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. CUC5; CUC8 for both the Cuban and international sections. Guided tours are offered for CUC2. Calle Trocadero (between Agramonte and Monserrate), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-863- 9484. http://www.bellasartes.cult.cu.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: International Section Calle San Rafael Housed in a beautiful, 1927 renaissance-style building (the former Havana, Cuba Centro Asturiano) on the east side of Parque Central, Cuba's preeminent art collection is displayed on five floors, each dedicated to a Phone: 7-863-9484 theme. Dutch, English, French and Italian masters can be seen, as can http://www.bellasartes.cult.cu classical antiquities from throughout the Mediterranean and Latin America. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. CUC5 entry, CUC8 for both the Cuban and international sections. Guided tours cost CUC2. Calle San Rafael (between Agramonte and Monserrate), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-863-9484. http://www.bellasartes.cult.cu.

Museo Napoleonico 1159 Calle San Miguel The memory of Napoleon Bonaparte lives on in this fabulous museum, housed in a 1920s mansion that copies the style of Florentine Havana, Cuba Renaissance. In addition to portraits of the 19th-century French Phone: 7-879-1412 emperor, the eclectic collection of multimillionaire Julio Lobo Olavarria https://www.napoleon.org/en/magazine/places/museo- features Napoleon's pistols and even his toothbrush and authentic death napoleonico-cuba-2 mask. The top-floor library has more than 4,000 books on Napoleon, some very rare. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-5 pm, Sunday 9:30 am- 12:30 pm. CUC3 entry, CUC2 for guided tours. 1159 Calle San Miguel (between Ronday and Maso), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-879-1412. https://www.napoleon.org/en/magazine/places/museo-napoleonico- cuba-2.

Museo Numismatico 305 Calle Obispo Cuba's entire range of coins and notes is there, dating from the first Havana, Cuba notes issued by the Republic of Cuba at Arms in the 1860s and banknotes signed by Che Guevara when he was president of the Cuban Phone: 7-861-5811 Nacional Bank. Other displays include a gold US$20 piece, as well as medals, Spanish escudos and reales, and ancient coins from Greece, Rome and Phoenicia. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. CUC1. 305 Calle Obispo (between Habana and Aguiar), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- 861-5811.

Museo y Farmacia Taquechel 155 Calle Obispo Operating much as it did when it first opened in 1898, this apothecary retains its original French cabinets stocked with colorful jars of traditional Havana, Cuba potions and herbs. It also sells a homespun line of cosmetics and Phone: 7-862-9286 treatments. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. Free. 155 Calle Obispo (between San Ignacio and Mercaderes), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-9286.

10 de Octubre/Cotorro Havana, Cuba The hilly southeast quarter of metropolitan Havana is mostly residential and run-down, with few tourist sites. However, the Ernest Hemingway museum, in the author's former home at San Francisco de Paula, is a must-see. Farther out, the village of Santa Maria del Rosario preserves its colonial heritage, including one of Cuba's finest churches. Public transportation is virtually nonexistent.

Arroyo Naranjo and Boyeros Havana, Cuba This district, on the southern outskirts of the city, hosts Jose Marti International Airport, as well as four sites of modest appeal: the National Zoo, Lenin Park, the National Botanical Garden and ExpoCuba (a permanent exhibition of Cuba's technological and other achievements). Cuba's main religious pilgrimage takes place each 17 December at Sanctuario de San Lazaro, near the colonial village of Santiago de las Vegas, where the nationalist hero Gen. Antonio Maceo is buried in a grandiloquent hilltop mausoleum. A suburban rail service connects the main sites to Havana. Bus service is minimal.

Barrio Chino Havana, Cuba More a curiosity for what it once was, Havana's faded Chinatown has lost its vitality (along with its Chinese population) since the revolution, but it is slowly making a comeback. A Dragon Gate stands at the eastern entrance, on appropriately named Calle Dragones. Decades-old signs in Cantonese swing on rusty hinges. Several Chinese community associations have shrines catering to the Sino-Cuban population of whom fewer than 2,000 who remain. Between San Martin and Salud, and Lealtad and Avenida de Italia. Centro Habana.

Centro Habana Havana, Cuba Immediately west of Habana Vieja and extending inland from the seafront Malecon, this mostly residential and densely-packed region was laid out in the mid-19th century. It hosts only a few sites of interest. Barrio Chino, the once-vibrant Chinatown, has a jaded Chinese motif, though most Chinese inhabitants fled the island following the Revolution. Much of the region is run down: Many streets are strewn with rubble, and street crime is a potential problem, particularly at night. Nonetheless, several of the city's top private restaurants are there.

Ciudad Panamericano/Cojimar/Alamar Havana, Cuba The Atlantic foreshore east of Havana was mostly developed since the revolution. Dreary Ciudad Panamericano is centered on a sports complex built for the Pan-American Games in 1991. Ciudad Panamericano adjoins the colonial-era fishing village of Cojimar, which has Hemingway associations. Beyond Cojimar is the sprawling and ugly modern enclave of Alamar, a center for Cuba's evolving hip-hop culture.

Habana Vieja (Old Havana) Havana, Cuba Defined as the original colonial city that stood within the old walls (completed in 1697 but since demolished), Old Havana extends east of Paseo de Marti and south of Avenida Maximo Gomez. Laid out in a regular grid west of the harbor, the UNESCO World Heritage site contains almost 1,000 buildings of historic importance (144 structures date from the 16th and 17th centuries). It teems with museums and sites of interest. It is pedestrian-friendly, and walking is the ideal mode of exploring.

Miramar and Playa Havana, Cuba Separated from Vedado by the Rio Almendares is a sprawling region that evolved in the early 20th century for the monied class. Today, it is a center for foreign embassies and for business development, with the Miramar Trade Center and several deluxe hotels. Tourist sites are limited to the National Aquarium, the Maqueta (a scale model of the city) and the Museum of the Ministry of Interior. Farther west, in Jaimanitas, is Marina Hemingway. South of Miramar, in the slightly forlorn residential district of Marianao, is the famed Tropicana nightclub, with the Superior Arts Institute and Ciudad Cientifico (a center for biogenetic research) to the west in Siboney and Cubanacan districts, where the deluxe homes of the long-departed wealthy are now occupied by foreign diplomats and Cuba's own government elite. Together these districts comprise the municipal area of Playa. Hotels are too far out for sightseeing, although several of Havana's best restaurants are there. You'll need a car for touring.

Regla and Guanabacoa Havana, Cuba On the east side of Havana Bay, these contiguous low-income districts date from the 16th and 17th centuries. Hilly and slightly dilapidated, they are a center for petro-chemical and electricity-generating industries. Regla's main site is the small, charming Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla. Guanabacoa also has plenty of religious sites, though most await restoration, as do two Jewish cemeteries of historic importance. Together, the towns are centers of the Santeria religion and are most interesting for their Afro-Cuban music and dance. Small, crowded ferries link Regla to Habana Vieja.

Vedado Havana, Cuba Prior to the revolution, this region west of Centro Habana was a thriving, middle-class district graced by tree-lined streets of mansions and art- deco and modernist apartment blocks, which went up in the mid-20th century. Havana's leading nightclubs were there, alongside the city's top hotels and offices—concentrated along a sloping stretch of Calle 23 known as La Rampa. Such is still the case, although the houses and other buildings are somewhat deteriorated. Vedado stretches about 3 mi/5 km east to west, connecting Centro Habana to the district of Miramar. It slopes gently uphill from the sinuous Malecon and rises south into Nuevo Nevado, a more recent addition centered on the Plaza de la Revolucion (the seat of government). Vedado's highlights include the university, 1950s hotels, Parque Lennon (with a statue of the late Beatle sitting benignly on a park bench), Cementerio Colon and the mansions along Calle 17 and Avenida de los Presidentes. Although the core (the district bordering La Rampa) can be explored on foot, Vedado otherwise requires transportation.

Bosque de la Habana Calle 49-C Stretching along a section of the Rio Almendares, this rare tract of inner- Havana, Cuba city woodland has been rehabilitated as an ecological park equipped with minigolf, pony rides, an open-air snack bar and a children's playground. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Calle 49-C, Kohly, Havana.

Jardin Botanico Nacional Carretera del Rocio Km 3.5 This sprawling garden is divided by themes such as bamboo and palms. Havana, Cuba The Japanese Garden—created by Yoshikuni Araki, one of Japan's best landscape architects—is a highlight, as is the greenhouse containing Phone: 7-697-9364 cactus, epiphytes and mountain plants. A tractor-train departs four times daily on a circuit of the garden. Daily 8 am-4 pm. CUC1. Carretera del Rocio Km 3.5, Arroyo Naranjo, Havana. Phone 7-697-9364.

Jardin Diana de Gales Calle Baratillo This tiny garden, hidden one block north of Plaza San Francisco, is dedicated to the late Diana, Princess of Wales, and features a striking Havana, Cuba totemic monument by Cuban artist Alfredo Sosabravo. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Free. Calle Baratillo, Habana Vieja, Havana.

Parque Central Havana, Cuba The main social center for residents and the unofficial heart of the city, this palm-shaded square is anchored by a statue of national hero Jose Marti. Baseball fanatics gather at the statue's south side to debate the fine points of the sport. Buildings of note include the late-19th-century Hotel Telegrafo and Hotel Inglaterra, as well as the Hotel Plaza (1909), Gran Teatro (1915) and Centro Asturio (1927), which houses the National Museum of Fine Arts. Between Paseo de Marti and Agramonte, and Neptuno and San Jose. Habana Vieja.

Parque de la Fraternidad Paseo de Marti The Friendship Park, immediately south of the Capitolio, was laid out in Havana, Cuba 1892 on the site of the original railway station, which had previously been a military parade ground. Its current layout dates from 1928, when French designer Jean-Claude Forestier redesigned the Paseo de Marti. At its center stands a large ceiba tree—the Tree of Friendship. Paseo de Marti (between Dragones and Avenida Maximo Gomez), Havana.

Parque Lenin Calle 100 This mammoth park on the southern outskirts of Havana features Havana, Cuba various attractions for the Cuban masses. A huge bust of Lenin, created by Soviet sculptor L. E. Kerbel, is the focal point. Public access is by bus or taxi. Free. Calle 100 (at Carretera de la Presa), Boyeros, Havana.

Plaza de Armas Havana, Cuba Originally a military parade ground and the center of Spanish-Colonial government, this cobbled plaza located between the harbor entrance and the cathedral is centered on a small landscaped park pinned by a statue of national hero Manuel de Cespedes ("the father of Cuba" and leader in the fight for independence from Spain). The plaza is surrounded by important buildings: El Templete, on the east side, recalls the founding of the city here in 1519; the Palacio de Capitanes Generales, on the west side, was the residence of Spanish governors for 107 years. Between Obispo and O'Reilly, and Baratillo and Tacon. Habana Vieja.

Plaza de la Catedral Calles Empredado and San Ignacio Havana's most intimate plaza was originally the site of a swamp. It was Havana, Cuba drained and the cobbled plaza gradually laid out in the 17th century. Exquisite mansions arose on three sides, and the baroque cathedral was erected to the north. Key buildings include the Casa de los Condes de Bayona, now housing the Museo de Arte Colonial, the Casa del Marques de Arcos and the Casa de los Marqueses de Aguas Claras, which functions as a restaurant and popular cafe, with tables spilling onto the plaza. Calles Empredado and San Ignacio, Habana Vieja, Havana.

Plaza del Cristo Havana, Cuba This small plaza is a gateway to the ecclesiastical core of southern Old Havana. On its north side, the small Iglesia de Santo Cristo Bien Viaje (Church of Saint Christopher), completed in 1732, has a well-preserved interior with various altars. However, the real draw is the charming cafes, bars and shops that have set themselves up in the gorgeous surrounding buildings. Between Lamparilla and Teniente Rey (Brasil), and Bernaza and Villegas. Habana Vieja.

Plaza San Francisco Havana, Cuba Originally a waterfront marketplace in early colonial days, this gracious cobbled plaza is lined on its west side by exquisitely restored buildings and, on the north, by the Lonja del Comercio—a former commodities exchange. Rising over the square to the south is the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco, a baroque church and convent completed in the 1730s. The English worshiped there after they briefly captured Havana in 1762. Thereafter, the Spanish refused to use the church for religious purposes, and today it functions as a concert hall; the nave houses a museum of religious art. On its east side is a garden dedicated to Mother Teresa and containing a Greek Orthodox church. Between Avenida San Pedro and Calle Oficios, and Calles Lamparilla and Teniente Rey (Brasil). Habana Vieja.

Plaza Vieja Havana, Cuba This ancient plaza originally hosted a market and bullring, and it has been carefully restored. Water now gurgles forth from a fountain (a replica of the original) in its middle. Sights include the Casa de los Condes de Jaruco, a notable 18th-century mansion, and the Casa del Conde de San Esteban de Canongo, now housing an English-style brewpub—Factoria Plaza Vieja, serving chilled beers brewed on-site. Both are on the southwest corner. The facade of the 1906 Hotel Palacio Vienna, on the southeast corner, is a stunning example of art nouveau. Do not miss the Camara Oscura on the eighth floor of the Edificio Gomez Vila on Calle Mercaderes (corner of Teniente Rey): You can watch the daily life going on in the small streets of Old Havana with a 360-degree telescope. Also on the east side is the Planetario—a planetarium projecting the universe onto a domed screen. Between Mercaderes and San Ignacio, and Teniente Rey (Brasil) and Muralla. Habana Vieja. Acuario Nacional Avenida 3 at Calle 62 Sea lion and dolphin shows are the highlights at this aquarium, which Havana, Cuba also displays sharks, marine turtles and other tropical marine species. Many of the exhibits are depressingly austere, but children particularly Phone: 7-203-6401 will enjoy the shows. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6:0 pm. CUC10 adults. http://www.acuarionacional.cu Avenida 3 at Calle 62, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-203-6401. http://www.acuarionacional.cu.

Jardin Zoologico de la Habana Avenida 26 Although the inadequate and outdated facilities are depressing, the city Havana, Cuba zoo has an impressive collection of birds and animals from around the globe. Services are minimal. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5:30 pm. Free. Phone: 7-881-8915 Avenida 26 (at Avenida Zoologico), Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7- 881-8915.

Parque Zoologico Nacional Avenida Zoo-Lenin Displaying animals and birds from around the world, Cuba's national zoo Havana, Cuba appeals to visitors who can see beyond the dismal facilities. An exception is the splendid Pradera Africano—African Wildlife Park— Phone: 7-644-8063 featuring hippos, elephants, rhinos and zebras. It can be explored by a sightseeing bus at the park. Wednesday-Sunday 9:30 am-3:15 pm. CUC3 adults. Avenida Zoo-Lenin (off Calzada de Bejucal), Boyeros, Havana. Phone 7-644-8063.

Callejon de Hamel Located between Espada and Enlivened by avant-garde murals in primary colors, a Santeria shrine and totemic sculptures, this small alley is renowned for its rumbas (Afro- Amrumburu Cuban music and dance parties) on Sunday, when it is packed. Local Havana, Cuba artist Salvador Gonzalez Escalon acts as patriarch and sells his eclectic Phone: 7-878-1661 works at Estudio-Galeria Famba. Located between Espada and Amrumburu, Havana. Phone 7-878-1661.

Casa-Estudio Jose Fuster Calle 226 at Avenida Tercera This is the home and studio of the world-renowned painter, sculptor and Havana, Cuba ceramic artist; it is a shrine for art-lovers, who flock to marvel at the Gaudi-inspired weirdness of Fuster's ebullient sculptures, which adorn Phone: 7-281-5421 every part of the house. It's on the western outskirts of the city, just east of Marina Hemingway. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Calle 226 at Avenida Tercera, Havana. Phone 7-281-5421.

Centro Estudios de Che Guevara 772 Calle 47 Housed in a purpose-built contemporary structure opposite Che Havana, Cuba Guevara's former home, this center is dedicated to studies of the Argentinian-born Marxist revolutionary. It doubles as a museum, with Phone: 7-814-1013 separate rooms dedicated to Che and to fellow revolutionaries Camilo https://www.cheguevara.com Cienfuegos and Haydee Santamaria. 772 Calle 47, Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-814-1013. https://www.cheguevara.com.

ExpoCuba Carretera del Rocio Km 3.5 Combining the roles of trade fair and exhibition hall, this facility on the outskirts of Havana showcases Cuba's accomplishments in culture, Havana, Cuba sports and technology. More than 25 pavilions are arranged by theme Phone: 7-697-4269 and province. You can also hire a rowboat for an excursion on an artificial lake, or enjoy the excellent view from the Bar Mirador, a small revolving restaurant on top of a tower near the main entrance. January- August Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-5:30 pm; September-December daily 9 am-5 pm. CUC1. Carretera del Rocio Km 3.5, Arroyo Naranjo, Havana. Phone 7-697-4269. Fabrica de Tabaco El Laguito 2302 Ave. 146 Housed in what was originally a lavish 1910 beaux arts mansion, this cigar factory produces Cuba's top smoke—the Cohiba. Monday-Friday 9 Havana, Cuba am-5 pm by reservation only. CUC10. 2302 Ave. 146 (between 21 and Phone: 7-208-4654 21A), Havana. Phone 7-208-4654.

Recreation

Most golf, tennis and other recreational facilities are run-down or may otherwise not be up to Western standards. Havana is blessed with fine beaches, most of them located east of the city. Sportfishing is well-developed and offered at Marina Hemingway (in Jaimanitas) and at Marina Tarara (in Playas del Este).

The major sports arenas are the Palacio de Deportes (in Nuevo Vedado) and the Complejo Panamericano (in Ciudad Panamericano), with bicycling, swimming and tennis facilities.

Beaches

Havana's splendid beaches run for about 10 mi/15 km along the Atlantic shores east of the city. The best beaches—Playas del Este—are a 30-minute drive from town. Locals flock to these golden sands on weekends, usually by crowded buses that operate from Habana Vieja; tourists can get there more comfortably aboard the HabanaBusTour, which departs Parque Central daily on a frequent basis.

The Miramar district is mostly rocky. A series of public balnearios (bathing areas) feature swimming pools and stalls serving beer, rum and snacks. The balnearios are crowded on sunny days, and loud music is usually blaring.

Farther west, a series of small beaches—the Playas del Oeste—stud the shores of Havana's Nautico and Flores districts, famous in prerevolutionary days for upscale private clubs such as the Havana Yacht Club. Today, most clubs are run down (some to the point of dereliction) and are operated as bathing resorts for Cuban workers. An exception is the Club Habana (Avenida Quinta between 188 and 192; phone 204-5700), Cuba's most exclusive beach resort. It operates as a private club for Havana's foreign business and diplomatic elite. Visitors can use the facilities for a fee. It offers watersports, including yacht rental, as well as volleyball and a swimming pool.

Playas del Este Havana, Cuba Beyond Alamar, the shore is lined with fine beaches that make up http://playasdeleste.com Playas del Este (Eastern Beaches). These sands are populated on weekends by residents. Tarara, the westernmost beach, has a marina and rental apartments. To its east, El Megano and Santa Maria beaches are the prettiest and have plentiful tourist facilities, including hotels and car rental. Tourists can rent casas particulares (private rooms) in the village of Guanabo, farther east. The area is best for day visits from Havana. Public transport is minimal, and visitors would be wise to rent a car or scooter, or to take the HabanaBusTour. http://playasdeleste.com.

Few residents bicycle and the streets are extremely dangerous—potholes, wayward drivers and obstacles in the road are ubiquitous. Theft is a major problem. Always park your bicycle in a dedicated bicycle lot with a custodio (guard); a chain and lock are essential.

Owners of casas particulares will often rent out heavy, no-gear Chinese bicycles for about CUC3 per day. Another possibility is to take advantage of your airline's offer to transport your own bicycle to Cuba for a modest surcharge. Bicycles are great gifts in Cuba.

Ciclocuba Havana, Cuba Based in Old Havana, this company rents daily and offers pick up and 7-866-2559 drop off services. Bikes are modern and well maintained. From CUC18 Phone: for three hours. Phone 7-866-2559. http://www.ciclocuba.com. http://www.ciclocuba.com

WowCuba San Pedro 258 This company rents bicycles in addition to offering a comprehensive selection of cycling tours around Cuba. Three-hour minimum on all Havana, Cuba C1A 4E8 rentals. Rates from CUC20. San Pedro 258, Havana. Phone 7-866- Phone: 7-866-2559 2559. http://www.ciclocuba.com. http://www.ciclocuba.com Be aware that Cubans are not permitted aboard boats as passengers. Club Habana Avenida Quinta You can rent yachts, dinghies and motorboats by the hour at Club Havana, Cuba Habana. Avenida Quinta (between calles 188 and 192), Havana. Phone 7-204-5700. Phone: 7-204-5700

Marina Tarara Playas del Este This company rents boats and other watersports equipment. Playas del Havana, Cuba Este, Havana. Phone 7-796-0242. Phone: 7-796-0242 Ernest Hemingway first battled marlin off the Cuban coast in 1932—the beginning of a lifelong love affair that established those waters as an unparalleled sportfishing paradise. Dorado, tuna, swordfish and blue marlin are the most sought-after trophies. Marina Hemingway Avenida Quinta Charter boats are available at this marina. Take sunscreen and a hat. Havana, Cuba Daily. CUC320 for four hours. Avenida Quinta, Santa Fe, Havana. Phone 7-204-1150, ext. 735. Phone: 7-204-1150,

Club de Golf Habana Off Avenida Independencia The Havana Country Club golf course was closed following the Havana, Cuba revolution, though it was maintained by the British Embassy. Today, as the Club de Golf Habana, it is open to public play. With only nine holes, Phone: 7-649-8918, it is more a curiosity than a challenge—but it's one of only two courses on the island. A minimally stocked pro shop sometimes runs out of balls. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Off Avenida Independencia (a 30-minute drive south of downtown to Carretera de Vento, Km 8), Boyeros, Havana. Phone 7- 649-8918, ext. 11.

Centro Ecuestre Havana, Cuba Located in Parque Lenin, the Centro Ecuestre (also known as Club 7-647-2436 Hipico) is a well-equipped stable that rents horses and offers riding Phone: lessons and dressage. June-August daily 9 am-5 pm; September-May Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. CUC12 per hour. Phone 7-647-2436.

The city is not hospitable to casual joggers—potholes in roads, open sewers, tilted and unstable sidewalks are among the obstacles. An exception is the broad central median along Avenida Quinta, in Miramar, and the Malecon is popular as well. Otherwise, head to Parque Lenin, with many miles/kilometers of open track, or the stadium of Complejo Deportivo (Via Blanca and Avenida Independencia; phone 7-854-5022). The shallows offshore of Havana are renowned for splendid diving—there are ancient wrecks, as well as astounding coral formations to explore. Centro de Buceo la Aguja Marina Hemingway, Avenida Quinta This company offers guided dives. Marina Hemingway, Avenida Quinta, Havana, Cuba Santa Fe, Havana. Phone 7-204-5088. Phone: 7-204-5088 Club de Habana Avenida Quinta This club offers guided dives and gear rental. Avenida Quinta (between Havana, Cuba calles 188 and 192), Havana. Phone 7-204-5700. Phone: 7-204-5700 Most deluxe hotels have gyms and permit nonguests to have access for a fee. Most gyms to which Cubans have access are poorly equipped and maintained. Private spas and health clubs have proliferated in recent years. Club Habana Avenida Quinta The club maintains a well-equipped gym. Nonmembers can pay a fee to Havana, Cuba use the facilities. Avenida Quinta (between calles 188 and 192), Phone: 7-204-5700 Havana. Phone 7-204-5700.

Spa O2 Calle 26 and Calle 26B This small, privately owned club offers spa treatments and has a well- equipped gym. Calle 26 and Calle 26B, Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone Havana, Cuba 7-883-1663. http://www.o2habana.com. Phone: 7-883-1663 http://www.o2habana.com Rooftop pools and bars are the rage in modern Havana. Try the roof terraces of the hotels Parque Nacional, Saratoga and Raquel. Pools can be used by nonguests for a (hefty) fee.

Other pools are to be found in the major hotels—such as the Melia Cohiba, Melia Habana, Nacional, Copacabana and Sevilla— and also can be used by nonguests for a fee.

Nightlife

While Havana's nocturnal heyday may be consigned to the past, a number of worthy nightspots have appeared, as entrepreneurs are opening private bars and nightclubs in response to Raul Castro's reforms. There is something for everyone, whether your interests bend to movies and rumbas or jazz and cabarets. Many venues are expensive, and thus virtually off-limits to most Cubans, although this is changing as more and more Cubans have at least a modest income of hard currency. Many places are relatively quiet midweek but packed on weekends. Many nightclubs charge a consumo minimo (minimum consumption) fee, often in addition to entry.

If folkloric music and earthy Afro-Cuban rumbas are your thing, concentrate your time in Habana Vieja. As in prerevolutionary days, Vedado is edgier, contemporary and more local. Many of the best clubs and cabarets are associated with the upscale hotels, where foreigners usually far outnumber Havanans.

Every district has a Casa de la Trova, where traditional music is performed. Havana even has hip-hop and reggae venues. Las Vegas-style cabarets, referred to as cabarets espectaculos, are extremely popular.

Cubans aren't shy, and men and women alike are unusually bold in their invitations to dance.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Bar Pico Blanco Calle O No. 206 The bar on the top floor of the Hotel St. John's is better known under its Havana, Cuba popular name "Rincon del Feeling" (corner for smooching). Expect lots of romantic classics of the 1940s, but also disco music and traditional Phone: 7-836-4072 sounds of Cuba. The hotel reception has the actual program. Tuesday- Sunday 9 pm-2 am. Cover charge from CUC5. Calle O No. 206 (between calles 23 and 25), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-836-4072.

Bohemio Bar 1065 Calle 21 Sophisticates will appreciate the lounge club feel of this private bar, Havana, Cuba opened by former professional ballerinas in a converted century-old Vedado mansion. It serves tapas and has hip music and plenty of Phone: 7-833-6918 antique sofas. 1065 Calle 21 (between calles 12 and 14), Havana. Phone 7-833-6918.

Cafe Opera Paseo de Marti Elegant concert-bar located in the magnificent building of the Gran Teatro on Paseo de Marti. Starting around 10 pm, you can see well- Havana, Cuba known artists performing there. It may be jazz, opera or live piano, but Phone: 7-861-6575 it's usually high-quality. Excellent drinks, an impressive wine list and tasty tidbits, all at affordable prices. Daily 2 pm–2 am. Paseo de Marti (corner of San Rafael), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-6575. Dos Hermanos Ave. San Pedro 304 Recently restored to its pre-revolutionary glory, this harborfront bar is off Havana, Cuba the beaten track and is among Havana's bars once frequented by Ernest Hemingway. It has live bands. The mojitos there are cheaper Phone: 7-861-3514 (and tastier) than those sold at the more famous and crowded La Bodeguita del Medio. Daily 24 hours. Ave. San Pedro 304 (corner of Sol), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-3514.

El Floridita Calle Obispo 557 This famous 1940s-era bar was immortalized by Ernest Hemingway in Havana, Cuba Islands in the Stream. Hemingway drank daiquiris there. His stool is roped off, like a shrine, and there's a life-size bronze statue of the Phone: 7-867-1299 author leaning on the bar. Go once for the ambience, only to be http://www.floridita-cuba.com charged CUC6 for a frozen daiquiri, often of a quality Hemingway would have punched the waiter for. ("Papa" was known to punch guests who asked him annoying questions or sat at his stool.) The adjoining restaurant serves overpriced seafood. Daily 11:30 am-midnight. Calle Obispo 557 (corner of Monserrate), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- 867-1299. http://www.floridita-cuba.com.

Escencia Habana 153 Calle B With foreign money and know-how, this privately owned bar in a converted early-20th-century building is as close as you'll get to an Havana, Cuba English pub in Havana. It serves tapas. Daily 1 pm-3 am. 153 Calle B, Phone: 7-836-3031 Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-836-3031.

Factoria Plaza Vieja Calle San Ignacio 368 This bar (formerly Taberna de la Muralla), housed in a magnificently Havana, Cuba restored colonial house on Plaza Vieja, is the best place in Havana to sip draft beer—which is made on the premises with the help of an Phone: 7-866-4453 Austrian brewery and served in half-liter glass jugs for CUC2 along with some tasty snacks. It also serves charcoal-grilled shrimp, pork and chicken, or try the lobster slices in beer sauce. Daily 11 am-1 am. Calle San Ignacio 368, Plaza Vieja (corner of Muralla), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-4453.

Hanoi Calle Brasil This tiny bar facing the Plaza del Cristo serves super strong mojitos, Havana, Cuba along with a food and snack menu. Waiters buzz around the few—but always packed—tables, while regular musicians add to the ambience. There is a small, pleasant garden out back. Daily noon-1 am. Calle Brasil (between Berraza and Cristo), Habana Vieja, Havana.

La Bodeguita del Medio Calle Empredado This colonial-era drinking hole and restaurant is where Ernest Havana, Cuba Hemingway, Errol Flynn and other glitterati drank their mojitos, and the venue still serves up some of the best in town. Walls are covered with Phone: 7-862-6121 thousands of signatures and other scrawlings, although the originals that dated from more than a century ago have been deleted. Troubadours add to the always-lively atmosphere. Daily 10:30 am- midnight. Calle Empredado (between San Ignacio and Cuba), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-6121.

Milano Lounge Club 2404 Avenida 3R Opened by a Cuban fashion designer and her Italian partner (a former Havana, Cuba model), this chic and minimalist lounge club doubles as a fine-dining restaurant. It exudes a South Beach, Miami vibe. A DJ sometimes spins Phone: 7-203-4641 late at night in the rear garden lounge. Daily noon-3 am. 2404 Avenida http://www.milanoloungeclub.com 3R, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-203-4641. http://www.milanoloungeclub.com.

Plaza de Armas Calle Obispo 153 This great rooftop patio-bar of Hotel Ambos Mundos offers a fabulous Havana, Cuba view of Old Havana and is just perfect for a sundowner. Most nights, a Cuban combo plays live. Daily noon-11 pm. Calle Obispo 153 (corner of Phone: 7-860-9530 Mercaderes), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-860-9530.

Sloppy Joe's Calle Animas Remember that bar in the movie Our Man in Havana (1959) where Havana, Cuba Wormold (Alec Guinness) and fat Dr. Hasselbacher would order daiquiris and play dice? This arch-famous Havana saloon bar finally Phone: 7-866-7157 reopened in 2013. Its authentically replicated original interior, including the famously long dark mahogany bar, where excellent cocktails are served, is definitely worth a visit. Daily noon-midnight. Calle Animas (corner of Zulueta), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-7157.

Sport Bar Avenida 3R at Calle 78 Opening onto Avenida 3R, this hip alfresco neon-lit lounge bar at the Hotel Melia Habana features wide-screen live sports events, plus music Havana, Cuba videos. Live bands occasionally perform and a DJ spins the hottest Phone: 7-205-8500 sounds. Avenida 3R at Calle 78, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-205-8500.

Cafe Cantante Mi Habana and Salon Piano Bar Delirio Habanero Teatro Nacional, Paseo One of Havana's major salsa temples, in the Teatro Nacional, right on the vast Plaza de la Revolucion, Cafe Cantante is more a dance club than a cafe: People go there Havana, Cuba for the hot music and hotter dancing. On Friday night, it's packed to capacity, Phone: 7-878-4273 including lots of tourists and jineteras. If you like a quieter, more intimate place (with dark-red plush sofas) to listen to wonderful Cuban bolero, filin, trova, guanguanco and son guajiro, head upstairs to the Delirio Habanero (elevator to the third floor, then climb another two flights of stairs). Daily 8 pm-3 am, groups usually perform 11 pm-1 am, followed by disco until dawn. Matinee Saturday and Sunday (cheaper entry and drink prices) 4-8 pm. CUC5- CUC10. Teatro Nacional, Paseo, Vedado (corner of Calle 39), Havana. Phone 7-878- 4273 or 7-878-4275 (Delirio Habanero).

Casa de la Musica Habana Calle Galiano Known for its famous salsa bands, this club (located in the former cinema El Jigue) pulls in a young local crowd, especially to the less- Havana, Cuba expensive matinee performances. When there's a big group playing, a Phone: 7-860-8296 huge crowd that cannot afford the tickets gathers outside and parties http://promociones.egrem.co.cu nonetheless. There are plenty of hustlers and prostitutes, so watch your wallet. Piano Bar Habaneciendo above Casa de la Musica is a smarter venue under the same management, and many famous groups also perform there. Tuesday-Sunday 5-9 pm and 11 pm-4:30 am. Cover CUC5-CUC15. Calle Galiano (between Corcordia and Neptuno), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-860-8296. http://promociones.egrem.co.cu.

Casa de la Musica Miramar and El Diablo Tun Tun Avenida 35 at Avenida 20, Miramar Like its (bigger) second venue in Centro Habana, the Casa de la Musica Havana, Cuba in Miramar regularly hosts some of the best salseros in Cuba. After the night concerts, the place turns into a hot disco. Open Wednesday- Phone: 7-204-0447 Sunday 5-9 pm and 11 pm-3:30 am. Cover CUC10-CUC25 for night http://promociones.egrem.co.cu concerts, CUC2-CUC4 for afternoon concerts. If you prefer Cuban music in a quieter setting, go upstairs to the charming piano bar, El Diablo Tun Tun. There's a little dance floor, but you can just sit there, enjoy your drink and listen to the excellent performances. Daily 11 pm-6 am. Cover CUC5-CUC15. Avenida 35 at Avenida 20, Miramar, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-0447. http://promociones.egrem.co.cu.

Club Imagenes Calzada 602 Don't be put off by the unsightly exterior: This is a lovely, romantic piano Havana, Cuba bar in the vicinity of the Teatro Amadeo Roldan. It sees an interesting Cuban-artsy crowd, as well as a fair share of tourists, who listen to Phone: 7-833-3606 excellent jazz pianists and bolero singers while sipping the local crema catalana cocktail and occasionally trying their karaoke skills. Later in the night, the club turns into a disco. On Saturday evening, it throws in some humorous shows as well. Monday-Thursday 10 pm-1:30 am. Cover CUC5. Calzada 602, Vedado (between B and C), Havana. Phone 7-833- 3606.

Club Salseando Chevere Margenes del Rio Almendares, Calle One of the best venues for serious salsa dancing in Havana. Many salsa 49C, Kohly schools go there to party at this friendly roofed open-air place, and a strict door policy quite successfully turns jineteras away. Check out the Havana, Cuba 101000 schedule ahead of time, as opening days and hours vary. Daily 11 pm-3 Phone: 7-204-4990 am. Cover CUC2. Margenes del Rio Almendares, Calle 49C, Kohly (at http://www.salseandochevere.com corner of 28A), Havana. Phone 7-204-4990. http://www.salseandochevere.com.

Copa Room Paseo and Malecon In the foyer of the Hotel Habana Riviera, this popular disco is the trendy Havana, Cuba place for salsa following the cabaret espectaculo. Despite faded decor, the venue still attracts some headline acts and heats up on weekends. Phone: 7-833-4051 Cabaret Monday-Saturday 10:30 pm-midnight; disco midnight-4 am. CUC20 (including a cocktail). If you only go to dance after the show, entry is CUC7 from 11:30 pm. Paseo and Malecon, Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-833-4051.

Discoteca Escaleras al Cielo 658 Zulueta Popular with the LGBT crowd, this private disco raised the night temperature several degrees upon opening. It features scantily-clad Havana, Cuba male and female go-go dancers, a stripper pole, and a neon-lit 1970s Phone: 7-863-3009 retro vibe. It can get infernally hot inside the club, and heterosexuals may feel out of place. Friday and Saturday 10 pm-4 am. 658 Zulueta, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-863-3009.

Don Cangrejo Havana, Cuba The open-air terrace of this private restaurant is an unlikely venue for 7-204-3837 the city's hottest Friday night scene, drawing the moneyed young elite Phone: and a smattering of in-the-know expatriates. DJs spin the hottest fusion tunes, and live bands often perform. It gets insanely packed. Unfortunately, the owners have not stopped men from using the seafront side of the venue as a toilet. Friday 11 pm-3 am. Phone 7-204- 3837.

El Gato Tuerto 14 Calle O This smoke-filled, cramped, intimate bohemian bar has a 1950s vibe. Havana, Cuba Top Cuban artists perform bolero and musica filin (feeling music), as well as poetry readings and the occasional rap. The music doesn't begin Phone: 7-838-2696 until after 11 pm, and the bar is dead until then. Take a sweater for the chilly air-conditioning. Daily 10 pm-4 am. CUC3, plus CUC2 minimum purchase. 14 Calle O (between 17 and 19), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7- 838-2696.

Habana Cafe This fun cabaret bar has tremendous decor: prerevolutionary icons Paseo (including old yanqui autos), a vintage Harley-Davidson and an old airplane suspended from the ceiling. Top live bands are featured Havana, Cuba several nights per week. Cuban patrons are few (except young women, Phone: 7-833-3636 many discreetly searching for foreign benefactors), and the staff http://cohiba-habanacafe.com occasionally has been known to scam tourists. A disco is featured on Friday night, starting at midnight. Daily from 8 pm. CUC10 entry. CUC15-CUC25 for special concerts. Paseo, Vedado (between avenidas Primera and Tercera), Havana. Phone 7-833-3636. http://cohiba- habanacafe.com.

Salon Rojo Calle 21 This cabaret is one of the city's most stylish clubs, as well as its most popular nightspot for those with money to burn. It attracts a well-heeled Havana, Cuba crowd of people who dress to the nines as much as their budgets allow. Phone: 7-833-3747 Top salsa bands perform. The performance schedule is posted at the door. Daily 10 pm-4 am. Cover ranges CUC10-CUC25. Calle 21 (between calles N and O), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-833-3747.

Salon Rosado de la Tropical Benny More Avenida 41 Only a few tourists find their way to Marianao, which is an authentic Havana, Cuba residential neighborhood of Havana. This outdoor disco is a great place to hang out and dance with young Cubans who have a few convertible Phone: 7-203-5322 pesos to burn. Only relatively few jineteras ply their trade there, but foreigners need to be on guard against petty theft. Entry is CUC5— foreigners are sometimes quoted a higher price, which they should refuse to pay. Live bands usually perform, from salsa to rap and reggaeton. Tourists are welcome to join the fun but are not (yet) the focus of attention, a welcome change of pace. Thursday-Sunday 7 pm-2 am and matinees. Avenida 41 (at Calle 48), Havana. Phone 7-203- 5322.

Shangri-La Avenida 42 at Calle 21 A private lounge club in the basement of a mansion in an offbeat part of Havana, Cuba Miramar, this neon-lit place is one of the most popular late-night venues for Havana's farandula (in-the-know hipsters). Waiter service and a long Phone: 7-264-8343 list of cocktails and a congenial, if noisy, ambience make this a must- visit for night owls. Flat-screen TVs pump out music videos. Daily noon- 5 am. Avenida 42 at Calle 21, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-264-8343.

Cabaret Parisien Calles 21 y O Always second to the famous Tropicana but a lot cheaper (and almost as good). Many people prefer it because of its central location in the Havana, Cuba 10400 Hotel Nacional. Colorful shows with up to 90 dancers and singers daily Phone: 7-836-3564 at 10 pm (dinner starts at 9 pm). Dance lessons after midnight. CUC35; http://www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com CUC65 with dinner. Calles 21 y O (corner of Calle 21), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-836-3564. http://www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com.

Cabaret Turquino Calle L A visit to this nightspot on the 26th floor of the Habana Libre hotel is a Havana, Cuba must, for the spectacular view of Havana's city lights alone. When the electric roof above the dance floor opens, you'll dance right under the Phone: 7-838-4011 stars. The Turquino regularly hosts stars of the Cuban music scene, and after the show, the cabaret turns into a discotheque. Daily 10:30 pm- 4:30 am. Cover charge CUC10 (more when famous artists are performing). Tickets are sold at a small desk near the elevators on the ground floor. Calle L (between calles 23 and 25), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-838-4011. Cafe Taberna Calles Brasil and Mercaderes Popular with tourist groups, who are usually packed in to the gills, this Havana, Cuba venue hosts the "Buena Vista Social Club"—not the real ones of the hit movie fame, but old-time crooners who play tunes of that ilk and era. Phone: 7-861-1367 The acoustics are a bit over-the-top, but it's a fun and full-on 90-minute performance, enlivened by a pair of professional dancers who occasionally drag audience members onto the dance floor. Daily 9:30- 11 pm. Calles Brasil and Mercaderes, Havana. Phone 7-861-1367.

Jazz Cafe Avenida Primera at Avenida del Prado Considered the foremost jazz club in town, this contemporary supper Havana, Cuba club on the second floor of a shopping mall hosts Cuba's top names, including resident maestro Chucho Valdes. Get there early for a prime Phone: 7-838-3302 seat. Daily noon-2 am. Avenida Primera at Avenida del Prado, Havana. Phone 7-838-3302.

La Zorra y El Cuervo Calle 23 With a name that translates to "the Fox and the Crow," this cramped, Havana, Cuba smoke-filled basement bar that was ground zero for the Cuban jazz scene. It's still a great place but now faces stiff competition from newer Phone: 7-833-2402 jazz venues. The island's top and up-and-coming performers jam there, but check the schedule before going: On normal days, it's not much more than a music pub. Blues plays on Thursday. The music doesn't get going until 10 pm, sometimes much later. Daily 10 pm-2 am. CUC10. Calle 23 (between N and O), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-833-2402.

Submarino Amarillo Calle 17 This bar is a paean to The Beatles, whose music was banned in Cuba during the 1960s-80s. The club is in the former Atelier Club, dating from Havana, Cuba the 1950s, and is gaily painted in blues and yellows, with nautical decor Phone: 7-830-6808 inspired by the Yellow Submarine album cover. Live bands perform Beatles hits. Monday 9 pm-2 am, Tuesday-Sunday 1 pm-2 am. CUC5 cover. Calle 17 (corner of Avenida Sexta), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7- 830-6808.

Tropicana Calle 72 This is the top Cuban cabaret—self-labeled "paradise under the stars"— Havana, Cuba with a lineage dating from 1939. Josephine Baker, Nat King Cole, Maurice Chevalier and Benny More have all graced the stage. Phone: 7-267-1717 International performers occasionally highlight the show—a razzmatazz http://www.cabaret-tropicana.com of fast-paced music, flashing lights and high-kicking showgirls clad in scanty attire. It is still the hottest performance in town, though a lot more politically correct than it used to be. Avoid the half-price mitad (half- show), which doesn't allow entry until 11 pm. Two-hour shows nightly at 10 pm. A dress code applies (no shorts allowed). CUC75. Calle 72 (at Linea de Ferrocarril), Marianao, Havana. Phone 7-267-1717. http://www.cabaret-tropicana.com.

La Maison Calle 16 No. 701 You can eat there, you can dance there, but the real reason most visitors go to this fashion house is to watch the catwalk of Cuba's most Havana, Cuba beautiful models. The fashion shows in the garden usually start at 10 Phone: 7-204-1543 pm. CUC5. After the show, you can dance to Cuban music (alas, not with the models) and enjoy some karaoke. Thursday-Sunday 10 pm till late. CUC10. Calle 16 No. 701 (corner of Avenida Septima), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-1543.

Obini Bata 615 Prado The cultural center of the Asociacion Yoruba de Cuba is a fascinating Havana, Cuba place to visit. You can learn a lot about the Santeria religion and its 401 Phone: 7-863-5953 orisha deities during a guided tour (daily 9 am-5 pm, CUC10), but do not miss the performance of Obini Bata on Friday at 9 pm. These six women are the only ones in the world who master all Afro-Cuban percussion styles. They sing Afro-Cuban and Haitian songs and know all the dances honoring the orishas, deliver a hellish rumba performance and explode into maddening descargas. A connoisseur public joins in. It's one of the best and most authentic cultural experiences you will have in Cuba. CUC5, but if you eat in the center before the performance starts (good Creole cuisine at low prices), the cover charge is waived. 615 Prado (between Monte and Dragones), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-863-5953.

Performing Arts

Cubans are accomplished in performance arts, with many renowned dance companies. In contrast, the National Symphony can't compare to its international peers, principally for lack of quality instruments. Nonetheless, there is no shortage of accomplished classical musicians, who play at a broad array of venues, including the Basilica de San Francisco de Asis (phone 862-9683). Baroque and chamber music are specialties of the Iglesia de San Francisco de Paula (phone 860-4210).

The world of theater is relatively undeveloped and has suffered during the five decades of revolution. The genre was lassoed to promote the socialist ethic, and many classics and avant-garde interpretations have been banned. Although the tethers have been loosened in recent years and private companies have performed more controversial fare, most theater still operates under the state. Most theater is comedy and requires fluency in colloquial Cuban Spanish.

Many venues have not been kept up. The slightly worn Teatro Nacional de Cuba is Havana's prime venue.

There are no ticket brokers in Havana. You must buy your tickets from the host theater. Unless there is special tourist interest, the price will be in national pesos (and perhaps only a few cents in hard currency), but a foreigner will often be required to pay in convertible pesos, so let a Cuban buy your ticket.

Dance

Ballet Nacional de Cuba 458 Paseo de Marti Cuba's National Ballet Company, which ranks with the Bolshoi for its creativity and excellence, enjoys world fame because of founding Cuban Havana, Cuba prima ballerina Alicia Alonso (born in 1920). In 1948 she teamed up with Phone: 7-832-4625 her then-husband Fernando and his brother Alberto to open a company http://www.balletcuba.cult.cu in Havana, which in 1961 became the Ballet Nacional de Cuba. Alicia's style is admired for her tropical fervor, physical strength and Soviet-style discipline. Some of her best students have become renowned dancers and directors in U.S. and European ballet companies. Even though she is now in her early 90s and almost blind, she continues to direct her troupe. Performances are held at the Teatro Nacional and Gran Teatro. You can also watch rehearsals during the week, but be aware that the troupe is often on tour abroad. 458 Paseo de Marti (Gran Teatro), Havana. Phone 7-832-4625. http://www.balletcuba.cult.cu.

Conjunto Folklorico Nacional de Cuba Linea No. 657 This dance company founded in 1962 is world-famous for its Havana, Cuba performances of traditional Afro-Cuban dance productions, notably dances representing the Yoruba deities. It performs at Teatro Mella. Phone: 7-833-8696 Linea No. 657 (between Calzada and Avenida Quinta), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-833-8696.

DanzAbierta DanzAbierta (the name means "open dance") is Cuba's best-known Havana, Cuba contemporary dance ensemble on the international stage. Director Marianela Boan now lives abroad, but still maintains control of her Phone: 7-833-8696 troupe through her partner, Guido Gali. Inquire with Conjunto Folklorico about performances, a must-see. Phone 7-833-8696.

Danza Contemporanea de Cuba Teatro Nacional de Cuba Fans of Cuban contemporary dance should not miss a performance of this acclaimed company. Founded in 1959 and directed by former Havana, Cuba 10400 dancer Miguel Iglesias, its style draws on Afro-Cuban dance movement Phone: 7-879-2728 and rhythm, as well as popular Cuban dance forms. The company is http://www.dccuba.com based at the Teatro Nacional, but also holds performances at the Gran Teatro, among others. Teatro Nacional de Cuba, Avenida Paseo, Vedado (corner of 39, Plaza de la Revolucion), Havana. Phone 7-879- 2728. http://www.dccuba.com.

Habana Compas 11805 Avenida 51 An avant-garde music and dance company inspired by Spanish Havana, Cuba flamenco and traditional African percussion, it performs a unique blend of both. The mostly female ensemble even uses rustic cowhide chairs to Phone: 7-272-4643 perform percussion during scintillating, high-energy performances. http://www.habanacompasdance.cult.cu 11805 Avenida 51, Marianao, Havana. Phone 7-272-4643. http://www.habanacompasdance.cult.cu.

Rumba de Salvador's Alley Callejon de Hamel The place to be on Sunday afternoon is Callejon de Hamel, where an Havana, Cuba extrovert artist, santero and self-promoter named Salvador Escalon Gonzalez promotes Afro-Cuban music and dance sessions called Phone: 7-878-1661 rumbas. It gets crowded, and tourists face a barrage of hustlers touting CDs and trinkets for sale. Sunday noon-3 pm. Free. Callejon de Hamel (between Aramburu and Hospital), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7- 878-1661.

Gran Teatro de la Habana Alicia Alonso Paseo de Marti 458 This theater dates from 1915 and displays neo-baroque architecture at its most flamboyant. The facade is adorned with caryatids and angels. Havana, Cuba Great international stars have performed there—Sarah Bernhardt, http://www.balletcuba.cult.cu Eleonora Duse, Enrico Caruso, Arthur Rubinstein and Sergei Rachmaninov. Following extensive renovations in 2016, the theater was renamed after the prima ballerina who founded and directed the National Ballet of Cuba. The theater hosts performances of Ballet Nacional, Teatro Lirico Nacional de Cuba and Danza Contemporanea de Cuba. The major performances are staged in the Sala Garcia Lorca (1,500 seats). Paseo de Marti 458 (between San Rafael and Neptuno), Habana Vieja, Havana. http://www.balletcuba.cult.cu.

Teatro Mella Linea 657 This eclectic 1,500-seat theater was refurbished at the turn of this Havana, Cuba century and is used for dance, comedy, folklore, circus and variety shows. The Conjunto Folklorico Nacional de Cuba is based there. Phone: 7-833-8696 Performances usually start Friday and Saturday at 8:30 pm, Sunday at 5 pm. Tickets cost CUC5-CUC10 and can be purchased at the box office Tuesday-Sunday 2-6 pm. Linea 657, Vedado (between A and B), Havana. Phone 7-833-8696.

Teatro Nacional de Cuba Paseo, Plaza de la Revolucion This Modernist building opened as Havana's main theater in 1959, just before the revolution changed Cuba's government, and is still in use as an important venue for Havana, Cuba large-scale theater and dance performances. Its Sala Avellaneda seats 2,500 people, Phone: 7-785-590 and the Sala Covarrubias seats 800. Avant-garde productions are staged on the http://www.teatronacional.cult.cu noveno piso (ninth floor), but the derelict and dark staircase has been labeled a death trap. The theater also houses the Cafe Cantante in the basement and the Salon Piano Bar Delirio Habanero on the third floor overlooking the Plaza de la Revolucion. Performances usually take place Friday and Saturday at 8:30 pm, Sunday at 5:30 pm. Tickets cost CUC5-CUC10 and can be purchased at the box office Tuesday- Sunday 9 am-5 pm. Paseo, Plaza de la Revolucion, Vedado (corner of Avenida 39), Havana. Phone 7-785-590. http://www.teatronacional.cult.cu.

Spectator Sports

Cubans love their sports, and Havana hosts many international competitions throughout the year. Finding out about events may be difficult; there are few, if any, public announcements, so it's best to ask at Infotur.

The main indoor venue is Coliseo de Deportes, in Nuevo Vedado; it is the main venue for boxing, volleyball and martial arts—three sports at which Cuba excels. Outdoor events are hosted at Complejo Panamericano, in Ciudad Panamericano.

The main spectator sport, by far, is baseball. Havana has two teams: the Industriales (the guys born with the silver spoon) and the Metropolitanos (the eternal underdogs). Both play at the Estadio Latinoamericano.

Boxing is also popular in Cuba. Try to catch an event at the Ramon Fonst Arena, where you can also see good volleyball and basketball matches.

Baseball

Estadio Latinoamericano 312 Calle Zequeira Baseball fans absolutely must attend a match in the Estadio Latinoamericano. The Havana, Cuba atmosphere is great when the "enemy" team of Santiago rolls into town to face the local rivals Industriales or Metropolitanos (whose fans will fraternize for a few hours Phone: 7-870-6526 during that event); 55,000 spectators fit into the stadium. Facilities are fairly basic, but http://www.baseballdecuba.com the experience is always fun. You can only buy tickets at the stadium; the entrance fee is around CUC3. The games usually start at 8 pm. If you want to know the day and the team, ask any hotel concierge. If you know the game and speak fluent Spanish, join the hot debate about baseball at the Esquina Caliente (hot corner) of the Parque Central. 312 Calle Zequeira, Havana. Phone 7-870-6526. http://www.baseballdecuba.com.

Shopping

Habana Vieja is a trove of bargains: handcrafted straw hats, papier-mache dolls, hammocks, wooden statues, ceramics and paintings. Much of it is kitsch, but items of surprising quality and creativity can be found at street crafts markets and at dozens of private galleries lining the streets. Bargaining is permitted, except at state-run stores. The higher-grade crafts, including locally produced jewelry of silver (much of it made from recycled silverware) and black coral (protected in many countries), are usually sold in state-run stores and galleries, where works of art by Cuba's prized artists, such as Nelson Mendive, Aldo Soler and Lester Campa are displayed. Where possible, try to buy direct from the artist or craftsperson.

Cuba's homegrown Latin music is widely available. Two of the best outlets are Longina, on Calle Obispo, and Egrem, the recording studio on Calle 18, in Miramar.

The best deals are in Cuban cigars, which U.S. visitors are now allowed to take home (the limit is 100 cigars). Stick with export- quality smokes sold in Casa del Habanos stores throughout the city and at the cigar factories. Avoid apparent deals (usually illicit) on the street, as the cigars in question are invariably fake or faulty (and, at worst, floor-sweepings from a factory wrapped in second-rate leaves). Cuba allows the export of only 20 bulk cigars without any form of receipt. If you exceed that amount, you may be obliged to present purchase receipts to officials when leaving the country. Cigars must be contained in the original box with official seals. Boxes without a seal and a proper receipt from a licensed store may be confiscated at Cuban customs (all baggage is X-rayed at departure).

Rum is another bargain, with Havana Club acclaimed as the best. The duty-free shops at Jose Marti International Airport have a great selection, so it's wise to save your rum purchase until the last moment.

Other than that, shopaholics will be disappointed. International boutiques are few and far between, and most items of imported clothing are outrageously priced. Cuba has a proscription on antiques, including valuable art, leaving the country.

Most stores in Cuba are government-owned: Everything comes to a halt during shift changes, and patrons are often left standing in the heat outside for ages while an inventory is run.

Important: Many items more than 40 years old, as well as recent artwork by well-known artists, may require an export license. It's usually forbidden to take old paintings out of the country. State shops and private galleries selling "quality" art will provide an export certificate if needed (if in doubt, insist on it). To be sure your quality artwork is not confiscated at the airport, get the certificate from the artist or at the Registro Nacional del Fondo de Bienes Culturales (National Heritage Office). Monday-Friday 9 am-noon. Calle 17, No. 1009 (between Calle 10 and 12), Vedado, Havana. Phone 831-3362. http://www.cnpc.cult.cu.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm. Many stores in the tourist areas are open until around 10 pm.

Bookstores

Fayad Jamis Calle Obispo Named for a famed Cuban artist, this clean, functional bookstore has a fantastic selection of art books from the Cuban masters, as well as a Havana, Cuba selection of new edition fiction and nonfiction. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Phone: 7-862-8091 Calle Obispo (between Cuba and Aguijar), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-8091.

Libreria Anticuaria El Navio Calle Obispo 119 Old and contemporary books, magazines and postcards. Daily 9 am-7 Havana, Cuba pm. Calle Obispo 119 (between Mercaderes and Oficio), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-3187. Phone: 7-861-3187

Libreria La Internacional 528 Calle Obispo English-language texts are limited, as are any texts critical of Cuba, Havana, Cuba socialism or the government. However, Cuba has produced superb novelists whose works are sold, although usually in Spanish only. This Phone: 7-861-3238 store has a selection of novels and nonfiction works in English. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 528 Calle Obispo, Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861- 3238.

Libreria Venecia Calle Obispo 502 This secondhand bookstore has a good selection of old propaganda and Cuban film posters. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Calle Obispo 502, Habana Havana, Cuba Vieja, Havana.

Plaza de Armas Havana, Cuba A second-hand book market is hosted in the plaza daily, with about two dozen stalls operated by self-employed booksellers. The entire stock is second-hand, and most books (which heavily favor revolutionary texts, notably written by Fidel) are in tatterdermalion condition. Nonetheless, the prices are sticker-shock high.

Harris Brothers Monserrate The best big store in downtown Havana is Harris Brothers, with four floors of stores selling imported items—from shampoos and sports Havana, Cuba shoes to stereo systems and TVs. Prices, as with all imported goods, Phone: 7-861-1644 are exorbitant, and the range of products is limited. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Monserrate (between O'Reilly and San Juan de Dios), Havana. Phone 7-861-1644.

Supermercado 70 Avenida Tercera at Calle 70 Originally serving foreign diplomats only, this supermarket has the most Havana, Cuba diverse offering of imported canned, bottled and packaged foodstuffs and household items. You can even buy imported magazines there. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Avenida Tercera at Calle 70, Havana.

Galeria Galiano Calle Galiano 256-Ea Top Cuban artists display and sell their work at this well-lit gallery in a browbeaten part of town. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am- Havana, Cuba 2 pm. Calle Galiano 256-Ea (between Concordia and Neptuno), Centro Phone: 7-860-0224 Habana, Havana. Phone 7-860-0224. http://www.arteinformado.com/guia/o/galeria- http://www.arteinformado.com/guia/o/galeria-galiano-119194. galiano-119194

Galeria Victor Manuel San Ignacio 56, Callejon del Chorro Occupying the Casa De Banos, the former public bath house on Plaza Havana, Cuba de la Catedral, this gallery offers up an interesting selection of sculpture, jewelry and decorative paintings. Given the superior location, high prices Phone: 7-861-2955 are to be expected. Daily 9 am-9 pm. San Ignacio 56, Callejon del Chorro (off Plaza de la Catedral), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861- 2955.

Taller Experimental de Grafica Callejon del Chorro This experimental graphics workshop produces some dramatic and creative lithographic prints produced on antique presses. Prices are a bit Havana, Cuba stiff, but most pieces are of superior quality. The main air-conditioned Phone: 7-864-6013 gallery is upstairs, above the entrance. Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. http://www.cnap.cult.cu/instituciones/taller- Callejon del Chorro (off Plaza de la Catedral), Habana Vieja, Havana. experimental-de-grafica-de-la-habana Phone 7-864-6013. http://www.cnap.cult.cu/instituciones/taller- experimental-de-grafica-de-la-habana.

Centro Cultural Almacenes de San Jose Avenida Desamparados Cuba's eclectic wealth of arts and crafts is found at more than a dozen Havana, Cuba street markets. By far the largest is the feria de artesania, in a former wharf-front warehouse, with a vast array of arts and crafts spanning the Phone: 7-864-7793 spectrum from hand-crocheted cotton clothing to erotic paintings and statues. Beware of pickpockets. Daily 10 am-6 pm. Avenida Desamparados (corner of San Ignacio), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-864-7793.

Mercado Agropecuario Calle Egido This is the largest market for fruits and vegetables in Old Havana. Havana, Cuba Tuesday-Sunday 8 am-6 pm. Calle Egido (between Corrales and Apodaca), Habana Vieja, Havana.

Centro Comercial Comodoro Avenida Tercera at Calle 84 This modern shopping mall on the large grounds of Hotel Comodoro Havana, Cuba and in the vicinity of Hotel Melia Habana is considered by many to be the best in Havana. Its shops sell everything from food to perfumes to Phone: 7-204-5551 clothing and footwear from major U.S. and European brands. Daily 8 am-7 pm. Avenida Tercera at Calle 84, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204- 5551.

Complejo Comercial Plaza Carlos III Avenida Salvador Allende at Retiro This huge shopping mall in Centro Habana has several floors and is the place where Cubans with hard currency go to shop for things they Havana, Cuba cannot get in peso shops, or just to look around and show their kids the Phone: 7-873-6556 escalators. The mall has several bars, cafeterias and fast-food http://www.carlostercero.ca restaurants. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Avenida Salvador Allende at Retiro, Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-873-6556. http://www.carlostercero.ca.

Casa del Abanico Calle Obrapia 107 Pretty fans, some made of unique materials. You can order one hand- Havana, Cuba painted for you. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Calle Obrapia 107 (between Mercaderes and Oficios), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- Phone: 7-863-4452 863-4452.

Egrem - Casa de la Musica Calle Galliano and Neptuno Havana has two main "music houses" with a second location of this Havana, Cuba national music-recording company at Avenida 35 (corner of Calle 20) in Miramar (phone 204-0447). There are more outlets, but these two are Phone: 7-862-4165 preferred. They stock a great selection of Cuban music, and both sell http://www.egrem.com musical instruments. Some titles are hard to get outside of Cuba. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm, and also when musical and other cultural events take place on-site, which is often. Calle Galliano and Neptuno, Havana. Phone 7-862-4165. http://www.egrem.com.

El Reloj Cuervo y Sobrinos Calle Oficios Expensive watches, high-class cigars and 15-year-old rum: This is Havana, Cuba Havana's idea of luxury. This elegant store also has a small bar. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Calle Oficios (corner of Muralla), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone: 7-864-9515 Phone 7-864-9515. http://www.cuervoysobrinos.com. http://www.cuervoysobrinos.com

Galeria Roberto Salas 3709 Calle 30 The world-famous photographer to Fidel Castro sells iconic prints of Cuba spanning the entire revolution. By appointment. 3709 Calle 30, Havana, Cuba Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-206-5213. Phone: 7-206-5213

Habana 1791 156 Calle Mercaderes You can have colonial fragrances made to order in engraved bottles at Havana, Cuba this tiny boutique. The fragrances include violet, rose and even tobacco. Imported French perfumes are also sold, and it can copy most Phone: 7-861-3525 international brands. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm. 156 Calle Mercaderes (corner of Obrapia), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-3525.

Joyeria La Habanera Calle 12, No. 505 Cuba's most elegant jewelry shop is in the posh Miramar district and offers exclusive creations. Unfortunately, modern Cuban jewelry uses a Havana, Cuba lot of black coral, which is protected in many countries. You may prefer Phone: 7-204-2546 the beautiful old pieces that are for sale: lots of 19th-century pieces, authentic art nouveau and art deco, and beautiful silverware—cutlery, plates and candle holders. You may even find some rare Swiss watches from prerevolutionary times. Each object comes with an official export license. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Calle 12, No. 505 (between Quinta and Septima), Havana. Phone 7-204-2546.

La Casa del Habano Avenida Quinta This chain has almost a dozen shops in Havana where you can buy cigars, but this location is considered the best place to obtain the finest Havana, Cuba Cohibas, Romeo and Julietas and other premium smokes. Not only is Phone: 7-204-5975 the selection great, but you will also get competent service and advice— http://www.habanos.com/en/tag/la- the shop is run by Carlos Robaina, son of the legendary tobacco grower Alejandro Robaina. There is a smokers' room, too. Cigar prices do not casa-del-habano vary much from shop to shop, nor are they cheaper at the factories. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Avenida Quinta (at the corner of Calle 16), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-5975. http://www.habanos.com/en/tag/la-casa-del-habano.

La Casa del Ron y del Tabaco Calle Obispo One of the best liquor stores in Cuba, located above the famous El Floridita bar. Don't buy the regular Havana Club there, as you will find Havana, Cuba plenty of it at the airport. Select the Matusalem Anejo, a delicious smoky Phone: 7-866-0911 rum that has ripened for at least 15 years in old oak casks. Also recommended is the Havana Club Gran Reserva. Other rarities are a lot cheaper. A Paticruzado or a Guayabita de Pinar may only cost CUC5, but their thin glass bottles break easily. Never, ever buy rum from street vendors, as it has likely been adulterated or watered down. Daily 10 am- 6 pm. Calle Obispo (corner of Montserrate), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-0911.

Longina Musica Calle Obispo 360 Beautiful art-nouveau shop in the very center of old Havana. It stocks an Havana, Cuba excellent choice of musical and percussion instruments, Cuban music and Cuban movies. Excellent service. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Phone: 7-862-8371 Sunday 10 am-1 pm. Calle Obispo 360 (between Habana and Aguiar), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-8371.

Munecos de Leyendas Calle Mercederes 26 This store close to Plaza de la Catedral sells a wide selection of beautiful handmade dolls and plush toys. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5:30 Havana, Cuba pm, Sunday 9 am-noon. Calle Mercederes 26 (between O'Reilly and Phone: 7-864-9301 Empredado), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-864-9301.

Palacio de la Artesania Calle Cuba Beautifully renovated colonial building with more than 20 shops catering to tourists. It sells souvenirs, clothes, leatherware, jewelry, CDs and, of Havana, Cuba course, arts and crafts. There's a small restaurant and a bar, too. Phone: 7-866-0078 Monday-Saturday 8:45 am-6:15 pm. Calle Cuba (between Pena Pobre and Cartel), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-0078.

Paul & Shark 105 Calle Muralla The finest of imported designer Italian clothing, much of it on a nautical Havana, Cuba theme, is found at this store housed in a restored colonial mansion on the south side of Plaza Vieja. Women's silk blouses and slacks, as well Phone: 7-866-4326 as blazers and sportswear for men, are sold at surprisingly fair prices. http://www.paulshark.it Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm. 105 Calle Muralla (between San Ignacio and Mercaderes), Havana. Phone 7-866-4326. http://www.paulshark.it.

Quitrin 163 Calle Obispo If you've been searching for a quality guayabera shirt (and prefer cotton), make a beeline for this small boutique store. It also sells Havana, Cuba embroidered skirts and blouses for women, as well as lace items. The Phone: 7-862-0810 selection is fairly small, but the quality is good. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 163 Calle Obispo (between San Ignacio and Mercaderes), Havana. Phone 7-862-0810.

Sombreros Jipi Japa Calle Obispo 365 Small shop in Old Havana that sells only handmade hats for women and Havana, Cuba men. Best buys are Cuban straw hats (called jipijapa hats). Quite affordable. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. Calle Obispo 365 (corner of Phone: 7-861-5292 Compostela), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-5292.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Las Terrazas. Surrounded by pine-clad slopes in the Sierra del Rosario Mountains, a 90-minute drive west of Havana, Las Terrazas provides a bucolic contrast to the capital city. Centered on a lake, this rural community and UNESCO biosphere reserve was created following the revolution and today boasts a charming hotel geared to ecotourism. Trails lead deep into the forests and along riverbanks to natural hot springs. An adjacent coffee finca has been restored and transformed into a rustic restaurant offering fine dishes, although better meals are to be had at La Fondiat de Mercedes. Several artists and artisans welcome visitors, including world-renowned artist Lester Campa. Excursions are offered from Havana. Las Terrazas can be accessed via the Autopista, although a far more scenic route is via the Costa Norte. The Viazul tourist bus from Havana to Vinales makes a stop at Las Terrazas. A taxi excursion will cost you around CUC75.

To Vinales. Dramatic physical formations await in the Valle de Vinales, which lies within three hours of the capital city via the Autopista. The valley (actually a series of valleys) comprises great gorges surrounded by soaring limestone formations called mogotes. Cuba's finest tobacco is grown in the valley, which retains a quaint charm, with ox-drawn plows tilling the rust-red fields. The village of Vinales has an innocent, picture-book quality, with magic sunrises and sunsets. If you overnight (recommended), there is a wide selection of casas particulares in town (many rent out bicycles and arrange excursions on horseback), and two adequate state-run hotels offer tremendous views from atop the mogotes south of town. Day excursions can be booked in Havana's tourist hotels. Vinales is also served by the Viazul tourist bus from Havana (CUC26 round-trip). If you are a small group, consider hiring a taxi in Havana for a day excursion (around CUC100).

To Cayo Levisa. This magnificent cay studs the turquoise inshore waters off the north coast of Pinar del Rio within a three-hour drive along the north shore from Havana. The quality hotel has various types of accommodations, including deluxe cabins. You can spend the day sunning, but Hobie Cats, kayaks and pedal-boats are available for rent. A ferry runs to the island at 10 am and 5 pm.

HabanaBusTour Havana, Cuba Operated by Transtur, this tour by open double-decker bus makes a circuit of the key sites around Habana Vieja and Vedado, including the Phone: 7-835-0000 Plaza de la Revolucion. Your ticket is good for 24 hours and lets you hop on or off the bus at any of 44 stops en route. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Phone 7-835-0000.

Havanatur Calle Paseo 606 Take a guided walking tour or a motorcoach excursion of Havana, including to Museo Hemingway. Calle Paseo 606, Vedado, Plaza Havana, Cuba (between 25 and 27), Havana. Phone 7-838-4884. Phone: 7-838-4884 http://www.havanatur.cu. http://www.havanatur.cu

San Cristobal Agencia de Viajes 110 Calle Oficios This company offers guided walking tours of Habana Vieja. CUC15. 110 Havana, Cuba Calle Oficios (Plaza de San Francisco), Havana. Phone 7-861-9171. http://www.viajessancristobal.cu. Phone: 537-861-9171 http://www.viajessancristobal.cu

Day 1—Get a feel for the city layout and highlights by touring aboard a double-decker HabanaBusTour bus, which begins and ends at Parque Central and circles the main sites all day long, allowing you to hop off and hop on at more than 40 stops. Be sure to alight at Plaza de la Revolucion to photograph the sights and to visit the Museo de Jose Marti; then visit Cemeterio Colon (hire a guide to make the most of your visit).

Day 2—Spend the day exploring Habana Vieja on foot. Start at Plaza de Armas, where the city was founded, before moving on to the Plaza de la Catedral. Then stroll down Calle Mercaderes to Plaza Vieja before following Calle Brasil to Plaza de San Francisco. Mercaderes has dozens of museums and sites of interest. After dinner at a paladar (private restaurant), visit the main plazas again to admire them when floodlit. Day 3—Roam the sites that surround Parque Central, including the Gran Teatro and Capitolio. Then enjoy a leisurely stroll down the Prado and head east one block to the Museo de la Revolucion. End your morning by admiring the Cuban collection in the Museo de Bellas Artes. In the afternoon, take a taxi across the harbor to visit Parque Historico-Militar Morro-Cabana. Dine here and linger for the 9 pm firing of the cannon.

Day 4—Explore the 20th-century Vedado district. Sites not to miss include the Universidad de la Habana, the Hotel Habana Libre and Hotel Nacional. Refresh yourself with lunch at a local paladar. Then walk along Calle 17 to admire its astonishing architecture. In the evening, ride a classic car taxi to the Tropicana cabaret for an exciting show beneath the stars.

PLAN A

If your ship is scheduled to stay late in port, or overnight, make reservations to dine at Dona Eutimia. Then don your walking shoes to explore Habana Vieja, beginning with Plaza San Francisco, beside the cruise dock. Be sure to step inside the Basilica San Francisco to admire this concert hall.

Now follow Calle Oficios north to Plaza de Armas, with stops at the Museo de Navegacion (in Castillo de la Real Fuerza) and Museo de la Ciudad (inside the Palacio de los Capitanes-Generales). Head northeast one block to the Plaza de la Catedral, with a stop at Bodeguita del Medio for a mojito and a traditional Cuban lunch. Spend the afternoon walking south along Calle Mercaderes to Plaza Vieja, stopping at Habana 1781 to buy perfumes made to order.

After dinner, enjoy listening to old crooners playing jazz and singing traditional son music, of Buena Vista Social Club fame, at Cafe Taberna; or enjoy a homebrew at Factoria Plaza Vieja brewpub. Both are on Plaza Vieja, just two blocks southeast of the cruise dock.

PLAN B

Hire a chauffeured classic 1950s convertible on Avenida del Puerto, just north of the cruise dock, for the day. Then set out for a retro-themed tour of Havana. Follow the Malecon for a quick stop at the Hotel Nacional and Hotel Riviera. Continue west through the Miramar district to Casa-Estudio Jose Fuster to marvel at the world-famous artist's flamboyant ceramic sculptures adorning the community of Jaimanitas.

Now head back to Miramar for lunch at El Aljibe. Have your driver take you to Cementerio Colon for a walking tour of this amazing cemetery (hire a guide to show you the most important tombs); and to Plaza de la Revolucion.

Have your driver take you to visit Museo Ernest Hemingway—the author's former home on the city outskirts. Then return to Habana Vieja via the Parque Historico-Militar Morro Cabana. If your ship stays late in port, dine at Mama Ines, where Fidel Castro's former private chef dishes out delicious nouvelle Cuban cuisine.

DINING

Dining Overview

Numerous paladares (private restaurants) of note have opened in recent years, adding spice to what was for many years a lackluster epicurean scene. There is now plenty to choose from, with something of international standard for every taste.

Be sure to sample Cuba's typical criollo cuisine—roast chicken or pork served with rice, black beans, yams and fried plantains. Private restaurants are by far the best places to try local fare, such as corvina al ajillo (sea bass with garlic); a few offer creative dishes that could rival fine dining restaurants beyond Cuba.

Many state-run restaurants have few items on the menu actually available. Be prepared for barely palatable food, and sometimes service to match. And green vegetables are virtually unknown. Be aware that there are virtually no vegetarian restaurants in Havana.

Cuba's state-run restaurants are often vastly overpriced. Check your bill and count your change carefully, as scams are frequent. Dining hours are typically 11 am-midnight (several restaurants stay open 24 hours). Few, however, are open for breakfast: You will need to rely on hotel breakfasts.

Note: Few restaurants outside of major hotels accept credit cards, and U.S.-based credit cards are not accepted anywhere. Expect to pay within the following guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than CUC10; $$ = CUC11-CUC15; $$$ = CUC16-CUC25; and $$$$ = more than CUC25

Cafe Laurent Calle M No. 257 Excellent family-run restaurant on the fifth floor of an otherwise unattractive Vedado apartment block, with a great view from the open- Havana, Cuba air terrace. The elegant interior matches the tasty food served there: Phone: 7-831-2090 creative and beautifully presented meat and seafood dishes. Try the http://cafelaurent.ueuo.com grilled lobster, which is a lot cheaper there than in state restaurants, and so much better. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations highly recommended. $$$. Cash only. Calle M No. 257 (between calles 19 and 21), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-831-2090. http://cafelaurent.ueuo.com.

Casa Miglis 120 Calle Lealtad Run by a Swedish expat and cinematographer, this exciting private Havana, Cuba restaurant makes the most of a beaten-up early-20th-century apartment block in rubble-strewn Centro Habana. The avant-garde bar, with its Phone: 7-864-1486 neon lighting and creative seating, is worth the visit alone, but the main http://www.casamiglis.com draw is the superb nouvelle cuisine blending Cuban ingredients with European touches, such as pork in bean sauce with herb-fried potatoes. Daily noon-1 am. $$$$. Cash only. 120 Calle Lealtad, Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-864-1486. http://www.casamiglis.com.

Cocina de Lilliam Calle 48 No. 1311 Noted for its pleasing and lushly shaded outdoor patio—a perfect venue on warm evenings—this paladar draws Havana's elite. Enjoy the unique Havana, Cuba setting of this mid-20th-century home and savor the tantalizingly tasty Phone: 7-209-6514 creations of host Lilliam Dominguez. We recommend the tuna-and- http://www.lacocinadelilliam.com onion tartlet and the deliciously seasoned ropa vieja. Dine early to avoid disappointment. Tuesday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Cash only. Calle 48 No. 1311 (between 13 and 15), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-209-6514. http://www.lacocinadelilliam.com.

Dona Eutimia Callejon del Chorro 60 Since the early 1990s, this paladar located in a colonial house has managed to serve up consistently good Cuban fare in the old town, Havana, Cuba which means it's always packed. The house is crammed with antiques, Phone: 7-861-1332 and tables spill out into the cobbled alley. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$. Cash only. Callejon del Chorro 60 (close to Plaza de la Catedral), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-861-1332.

El Aljibe Avenida Septima This is the place to sample criollo fare at its finest. The state-run Havana, Cuba restaurant is popular with tour groups, so expect guests to arrive by the busload. The ambience of thatch and polished tree trunks is pleasing. Phone: 7-204-1583 Service is swift, and the restaurant's trademark pollo asado (roast chicken) in orange sauce is consistently delicious. It is served with heaps of rice, black beans and plantains. El Aljibe also has the best selection of wines in Cuba: 15,000 bottles stored in a cave, which is the perfect temperature for wine storage. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Septima (between 24 and 26), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-1583.

El Cocinero Calle 26 A former cooking oil factory is the unlikely venue for this hip private restaurant reached via a spiral staircase inside the former chimney. Havana, Cuba Choose the chic indoor restaurant, serving a full menu; or opt for the Phone: 7-832-2355 open-air terrace lounge, serving tapas such as gazpacho and grilled http://www.elcocinerocuba.com shrimp. Havana's youthful in-crowd flocks for live music and fine cocktails. $$$$. Calle 26 (between calles 11 and 13), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-832-2355. http://www.elcocinerocuba.com.

La Casa 865 Calle 30 Housed in a 1950s modernist mansion in Nuevo Vedado, this paladar Havana, Cuba combines retro decor with superbly executed continental and Cuban dishes, served in huge portions. Items to savor include fish carpaccio, Phone: 7-881-7000 rabbit stew and chicken curry; try the chocolate souffle for dessert. Daily http://www.restaurantelacasacuba.com for lunch and dinner. $$$. Cash only. 865 Calle 30, Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-881-7000. http://www.restaurantelacasacuba.com.

La Fontana Avenida Tercera A, No. 305 On a lush green patio with a fountain and little streams, this hidden Havana, Cuba paladar in Miramar serves excellent Cuban- and Mediterranean-style food. The lounge bar plays chilly tunes until the early morning. Daily Phone: 7-202-8337 noon-midnight. $$$. Avenida Tercera A, No. 305 (border of Calle 46), http://www.lafontanahavana.info Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-202-8337. http://www.lafontanahavana.info.

La Guarida 418 Calle Concordia Havana's most renowned paladar is as appealing for its remarkable setting as for its creative cuisine. Patrons ascend the dilapidated marble Havana, Cuba staircase of an equally tumbledown five-story tenement town house. Phone: 7-866-9047 The restaurant is chicly antique and always crammed to the creaking http://www.laguarida.com rafters with diplomats, foreign businesspeople and Havana's equivalent of the Hollywood set. The nouvelle Cuban menu includes a superb caimanero with orange sauce and pork medallions in mango sauce. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations required. $$$$. Cash only. 418 Calle Concordia (between Gervasio and Escobar), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-866-9047. http://www.laguarida.com.

Los Nardos 563 Paseo de Marti Semiprivate restaurant run by the Sociedad Juventud Asturiana. It is located on the first floor of an old building opposite the Capitolio and Havana, Cuba serves delicious Cuban-Spanish food in huge portions, including an Phone: 7-863-2985 excellent paella, at cheap prices (but with a 10% service charge added). Seafood and lobster are affordable, too. Be sure to dine in the cavernous main room, not the smaller and soulless upper or lower levels. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Cash only. 563 Paseo de Marti (between Dragones and Teniente Rey), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-863-2985.

Mama Ines Calle Obrapia 60 This rather hidden paladar, owned and operated by Erasmo Hernandez —a former chef to Fidel Castro—is located off Plaza San Francisco in Havana, Cuba the heart of the old city. Dishes are creative, so try the garlic octopus Phone: 7-862-2669 appetizer, the chicken in sweet-and-sour sauce and the seafood. Even burgers taste like the real deal there. Service is excellent and Erasmo often appears to chat up patrons. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Cash only. Calle Obrapia 60 (between Oficios and Baratillo), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-862-2669.

Paladar La Mulata del Sabor 153 Sol Lovely, small and hospitable paladar with tasty creole food for decent prices close to Plaza Vieja. Try the pollo a la mulata (chicken), the Havana, Cuba house specialty. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$. Cash only. Phone: 7-867-5984 153 Sol (between Cuba and San Ignacio), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-867-5984.

Tocororo 302 Calle 18 A staple of Cuba's favored political and business elite, this state-run restaurant is housed in a rambling mansion festooned with eclectic Havana, Cuba decor. The equally broad-ranging menu includes many European Phone: 7-204-2209 favorites, although it focuses on local fare, and quality is not on a par with private restaurants. The adjoining bar is a popular nightspot, and the restaurant also has a resident jazz ensemble. Monday-Saturday noon-midnight. No shorts. $$$. 302 Calle 18 (corner of Avenida Tercera), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-2209.

Waoo Calle L No. 414 This place opposite the hotel Habana Libre modestly calls itself a "snack bar," but in reality, the food served there puts most hotel restaurants to Havana, Cuba shame—and the service is outstanding, too. Try the fillet steak, beef Phone: 7-832-8424 Carpaccio and the fabulous tapas. Great selection of cocktails and international spirits. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Cash only. Calle L No. 414 (corner of Calle 25), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-832-8424.

Asian

La Torre de Marfil 115 Calle Mercaderes Given Cuba's general paucity of spices and typically Asiatic ingredients, Havana, Cuba this state-run restaurant in the heart of Old Havana does an acceptable job of producing such Chinese staples as spring rolls and chow mein. Phone: 7-867-1038 Service can be disorganized, which is hard to understand, as the restaurant is usually almost empty. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Cash only. 115 Calle Mercaderes (near Obrapia), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-867-1038.

Restaurante Tien-Tan Callejon Cuchillo 17 This is the best choice in town for Chinese fare, but don't expect too much. The Shanghai-born chef manages to whip up imaginative dishes Havana, Cuba with considerable flair. You can dine outside on the narrow pedestrian- Phone: 7-861-5478 only alley abuzz with colorful street life. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Callejon Cuchillo 17 (between Rayo and San Nicolas), Centro Habana, Havana. Phone 7-861-5478.

La Torre 155 Calle 17 Atop the Focsa building, this dramatically positioned restaurant is worth Havana, Cuba a visit for the bird's-eye view of the city. The French-inspired menu is fairly ambitious, but the Cuban chef does a noteworthy job. Stick to the Phone: 7-832-2451 simpler dishes. You can also opt for a drink at the bar and enjoy the terrific sunset and the twinkling lights of Havana. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 155 Calle 17, Vedado (between M and N), Havana. Phone 7-832-2451.

Le Chansonier Calle J No. 257 A French-style paladar in Havana sounds almost too hard to believe, but there it is, and a well-kept secret, too. No sign at the door, so without the Havana, Cuba exact address, nobody ever finds it. Walk up the stairs and ring at the Phone: 7-832-1576 grilled gate of a beautiful colonial mansion. The interior is beautifully http://www.lechansonnierhabana.com designed, and the French-inspired menu is amazing, from duck terrine to rack of lamb, although both quality and service are inconsistent. It even serves French wines. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. Cash only. Calle J No. 257 (between calles 15 and Linea), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-832-1576. http://www.lechansonnierhabana.com.

Monseigneur Calle O This wonderful kitschy, but still elegant, state-run restaurant opposite Havana, Cuba the entrance to the Hotel Nacional was the place to dine in the 1950s. Mafioso "Lucky" Luciano was a regular guest, and one of Cuba's most Phone: 7-832-9884 famous pianists, Bola de Nieva (Snowball), entertained the rich and famous of Havana. Somehow the Monseigneur has survived half a century of revolution, and the servers' worn-out don't look any younger. Go there for the atmosphere, although the shrimp cocktail and the filet mignon are excellent and more affordable than in the overpriced luxury restaurants in Miramar. The pianist plays beautifully, and the bar serves good daiquiris and mojitos. Take a jacket—the air-conditioning is chilly. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Calle O (corner of 21), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-832-9884.

Anacaona Hotel Saratoga, Paseo de Marti 603 One of the finest restaurants in town, this elegant venue in the Hotel Saratoga has had a checkered past, but it now shines under the Havana, Cuba creative direction of Italian-born executive chef Mario Verutti. Execution Phone: 7-868-1000 is accomplished by Cuban standards, with rich flavors and refreshingly http://www.hotel-saratoga.com creative dishes at bargain prices. We greatly enjoyed a fish fillet with balsamic reduction, garlic potatoes and grilled tomatoes; and a T-bone steak with spinach, olive oil and garlic. Daily 7 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Hotel Saratoga, Paseo de Marti 603 (corner of Dragones), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-868-1000. http://www.hotel- saratoga.com.

Corte de Principe Calle Noveno at 74 Without a doubt the best Italian restaurant in town, this unpretentious Havana, Cuba and off-the-beaten-path restaurant is beloved by Havana's expat community. Sergio, the Italian owner, has created a piece of home away Phone: 7-5255-9091 from home, down to the red-and-white checkered tablecloths. The fare depends on Sergio's daily whim; the server will tell you what's on offer. Every dish is divine. Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Cash only. Calle Noveno at 74, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-5255-9091.

Decameron Linea 753 Don't be fooled by the unsightly outside: This is an intimate Italian restaurant close to hotel Melia Cohiba that serves large, excellent Havana, Cuba pizzas; a great lasagna Bolognese; and a tasty fish soup. Vegetarian Phone: 7-832-2444 options are also on the menu. Good wine selection. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Cash only. Linea 753, Vedado (between Paseo and Calle 2), Havana. Phone 7-832-2444.

La Carboncita Calle Tercera No. 3804 In a magnificent colonial mansion with a charming patio, this restaurant Havana, Cuba serves excellent—but surprisingly cheap—wood-fired pizzas, pastas and antipasti, all prepared by Italian chef Don Ciccio. Daily 9 am-midnight. Phone: 7-203-0261 $$. Calle Tercera No. 3804 (between calles 38 and 40), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-203-0261.

La Chucheria Avenida Primera For the best pizza in town, head to this small private restaurant, offering air-conditioned or breezy patio dining and a hip South Beach, Miami- Havana, Cuba style chic. The huge thin-crust pizza is world-class, with a dozen or so Phone: 7-830-7908 toppings to choose from. Combine it with an ice cream batido (shake). Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Cash only. Avenida Primera (between C and D), Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-830-7908.

La Piazza Ristorante Paseo With an open-fire oven, this modish eatery on the mezzanine level of the Hotel Cohiba offers a long list of Italian staples. Stick with the simpler Havana, Cuba fare, such as gnocchi and pastas. It can be smoky. Daily for lunch and Phone: 7-833-3636 dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Paseo, Vedado (between avenidas Primera and Tercera), Havana. Phone 7-833-3636.

Mediterraneo Havana 406 Calle 13 The Italian-Cuban owners of this private restaurant have done a fine job of rehabbing a 1940s mansion in Mediterranean style. Take a sweater Havana, Cuba for the air-conditioned interior, or opt for the small upstairs patio. Pizza Phone: 7-832-4894 is served, but the spinach ravioli and lobster pasta are the best dishes. http://www.medhavana.com Daily noon-midnight. $$$. 406 Calle 13, Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-832- 4894. http://www.medhavana.com.

Bodegon Onda Calle Obrapia Tucked into a quiet corner of Old Havana, this genuine tapas bar has all the quaint colonial ambience one could desire. Try the piquillos (fried Havana, Cuba green peppers) washed down with hearty sangria. Monday-Saturday for Phone: 7-867-1037 lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Calle Obrapia (corner Baratillo), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-867-1037.

La Paella Hostal Valencia, 53 Calle Oficios Steeped in colonial ambience, this airy bodega is graced by wrought- Havana, Cuba iron chandeliers, a well-trodden terra-cotta floor and posters of Spanish bullfights. The paella is splendid, although served for two people only; Phone: 7-867-1037 we recommend the seafood version, although it is often short on actual seafood ingredients. Start with the filling caldo soup. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Hostal Valencia, 53 Calle Oficios (corner Obrapia), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-867-1037.

La Terraza de Cojimar Calle 152 No. 161, Cojimar This was Hemingway's favorite restaurant. The dining room provides Havana, Cuba spectacular views of the bay, and the food, especially the seafood, is surprisingly good for a tourist trap. Daily noon-11 pm. $$. Calle 152 No. Phone: 7-763-9486 161, Cojimar, Havana. Phone 7-763-9486.

Cafes & Tearooms

Al Pirata Heladeria San Ignacio No. 76 One of Habana Vieja's burgeoning crop of artisanal outlets serves up homemade ice cream. It's pricier than local alternatives, but there's Havana, Cuba nothing quite like wandering the old town's cobbled streets with an ice Phone: 5-511-9351 cream in hand. Daily 11 am-9 pm. $$. San Ignacio No. 76, Havana. Phone 5-511-9351.

Bianchini 12 Calle Sol A tiny cafe run by a savvy Swiss-Italian lady and her Cuban partner, this Havana, Cuba delightful place can barely squeeze in a half dozen patrons at a time. Delicious pastries and quiches, plus frothy cappuccinos and other coffee http://www.dulceriabianchini.com drinks, make this the cafe of choice in Havana. It's hidden away south of Plaza San Francisco. Daily 9 am-8:30 pm. $. 12 Calle Sol, Habana Vieja, Havana. http://www.dulceriabianchini.com. Cafe Infanta La Rampa Small cafeteria and ice cream parlor in Vedado with several additional Havana, Cuba branches. The ice cream is actually even better than Coppelia but less famous. You can also eat pizza and sandwiches there. Daily 11 am- 11:45 pm. La Rampa, Vedado (corner of Infanta), Havana.

Coppelia Calle 23 Serving up ice cream in a space age structure in Vedado, this Havana Havana, Cuba intuition is wildly popular with locals. If you can face braving the queues, the ice cream is excellent. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-9:30 pm. $. Cash Phone: 7-832-6149 only. Calle 23, Vedado (corner of Calle O), Havana. Phone 7-832-6149.

Cafe del Oriente Oficios 112 Elegant state-run restaurant in fin de siecle style, with a long bar where Havana, Cuba you can sample a glass of 15-year-old rum, nibble delicious appetizers and listen to a wonderful jazz pianist. Upstairs, you'll find the dining Phone: 7-860-6686 room, with chandeliers, antiques, thick curtains, silver cutlery and servers wearing tuxedos; however, this room is mostly reserved for tour groups. Queen Sophia of Spain has dined there. The cuisine is French- inspired, with salmon, smoked ham and duck pate as appetizers. Try the lobster thermidor or filete a la pimienta. Good service (for Cuba), and some dishes are less expensive than expected, but food quality varies. Excellent wines. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Oficios 112 (corner of Amargura), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-860-6686.

El Paseo Calle Neptuno Parque Central hotel's second restaurant (the other one is the Mediterraneo, which serves Italian cuisine) has been rated one of the Havana, Cuba best in the country by the Cuban tourist ministry (though its ratings Phone: 7-860-6627 should be taken with a grain of salt). It's definitely expensive, but the http://www.hotelparquecentral- steaks are truly excellent. Even so, do order them rare to get them cuba.com/restaurants.asp served medium, as Cubans love their beef well (over)done. Extensive but, of course, very pricey wine list. Daily 1-4 pm and 7 pm-midnight. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Neptuno (between Prado and Zulueta), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-860-6627. http://www.hotelparquecentral-cuba.com/restaurants.asp.

Roof Garden Hotel Sevilla Most people go there for the setting: a large elegant dining room located on the top floor of the Hotel Sevilla, with high ceilings, open panoramic Havana, Cuba windows and a riot of marble and chandeliers. The view of Old Havana Phone: 7-860-8560 is fantastic. The kitchen whips up creative international and Creole food, although it is not of the same standard of private restaurants. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Hotel Sevilla, 55 Calle Trocadero (corner of Prado), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7- 860-8560.

Don Cangrejo Avenida Primera Suitably suspended over the sea, this seafood restaurant run by the Ministry of Fisheries gets first choice from the day's catch. The eclectic Havana, Cuba menu shows influences from around the world. Try the crab-filled Phone: 7-204-3837 wontons and the shrimp al ajillo (in garlic). On Friday and Saturday nights, it hosts a late-night outdoor nightclub. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Primera (between 16 and 18), Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-3837.

Restaurante El Templete Avenida del Puerto This delightful harborfront seafood restaurant is located in a restored Havana, Cuba colonial mansion. The zesty grilled sea bass with garlic is great served Phone: 7-866-8807 on the shaded patio, but you can opt for the cozy interior cooled by ceiling fans. The menu is diverse and includes octopus and oyster appetizers, although, as with most of Havana's government restaurants, the food quality there falls short of that of private restaurants. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida del Puerto (corner of Narsico Lopez), Habana Vieja, Havana. Phone 7-866-8807.

SECURITY

Etiquette

Cubans are extremely gracious and are always willing to help others. The elderly and infirm are treated with great respect—locals give up their seats and open doors for others.

Visitors should be aware that Cubans of both genders are extremely forward with romantic advances. Although women often show plenty of flesh, this does not extend to topless bathing, which is restricted to a few tourist-only beaches far from Havana.

Men greet each other with a handshake, or a hug if they know each other well. Women, even strangers meeting for the first time, greet by kissing each other on the cheek. Cubans are extremely informal with one another to the point of immediate familiarity. The use of the more respectful Spanish address, senor or senora, is not as commonly used as in other Spanish-speaking countries, although tourists are likely to be addressed this way. Cubans tend to use companero or companera (comrade). Locals often adopt references to a person's physical characteristics to refer to him or her, even in their presence. This is not considered impolite. Expect lots of gesturing and joking in regular conversations.

Cubans are generally fearful of being overheard by government spies and tattletales, for which reason they may be hesitant to engage in political discourse in public. Only in private and with trusted individuals will locals offer commentary about Fidel or Raul Castro (their names are rarely used; the reference is usually made by a tug on the chin) or the communist system. Avoid attempting to draw a Cuban into such a discourse, especially in the company of other Cubans they do not know. But also be wary if a stranger tries to drag you into a political discussion; he's likely to work for the seguridad, which is ever vigilant of U.S. visitors.

Cubans constantly make reference to the difficulties they face in life. Most manage to survive by taking advantage of the illegal black market in some form or another. You may encounter a disproportionate number of beggars and destitute, especially, elderly people, while walking the streets.

Cubans put great stock in cleanliness and in dressing to the best that their meager budgets allow.

Most Cubans are materially poor, and the recent tourist boom has fostered a significant amount of petty thievery, such as camera snatching and pickpocketing, aimed at tourists. Muggings and even murders have also been reported, although they are never reported in the state-controlled media. Travelers should avoid wearing expensive watches, jewelry and other valuables, especially in Centro Habana and other run-down parts of the city. Carry money in a money belt hidden beneath clothing. Calle Obispo and other congested areas where tourists gather require special caution against pickpockets and snatch-and-run theft, and they are heavily policed. Avoid walking in the decrepit Centro and Cerro districts, and in southern Habana Vieja at night, as violent robberies are a possibility. If you need to report a crime and speak no Spanish, take a local person to act as an interpreter; almost no police officer will speak any English (or other foreign languages).

Travelers should note that it is illegal to take GPS systems or satellite phones to Cuba.

U.S. tourists without a U.S. travel license who run into serious legal trouble in Cuba should not be afraid to contact the U.S. Interests Section: The staff is known to handle these situations with pragmatism. Citizens of other nations should always contact their embassies when arrested in Cuba. Note that if you have a car accident with a fatality you will usually be arrested and often stay in jail for a prolonged time, even if you are totally innocent. The best you can hope for is to be allowed to stay in a hotel until your trial begins, which may be months away. Visitors should also be cautious of scams involving car rentals and restaurant billing, and even when changing money at state-run bureaus de change. The Cuban government can be the worst offender. State car rentals, for example, employ several unethical practices. Restaurant bills often charge for items not served—count change carefully.

Jineteras (prostitutes) and jineteros (street hustlers) are the source of many scams. Never buy cigars or rum from street-sellers, however respectable they may appear. Guard your possessions carefully, and keep them locked in your suitcase in hotels, as housekeeping staff has been known to steal.

Car break-ins are common, and even tires are frequently stolen during the night. Never leave your car unlocked. Never leave any valuables in your car unattended. At night, always park your car in a guarded or secure parking lot and remove all items.

There are usually police stationed every few blocks throughout areas with tourists.

No vaccinations are required to enter Cuba unless you are arriving from or have recently visited Africa. Although the food in most restaurants is generally safe to eat, we recommend you stick with bottled water and prepackaged drinks. Sanitation in the city is fairly decent, but it's wise to carry hand sanitizer with you and to use it frequently. Housing is often dilapidated and damp; mold and mildew are common in private houses, so those who suffer from breathing problems will want to take a mask; this is rarely a problem in private room rentals, which are inspected and licensed by the government.

Outbreaks of dengue fever have occurred in recent years in Havana, and health authorities have classified Cuba as at risk of Zika virus. Mosquito eradication campaigns are ongoing; no warnings are given before fumigation occurs, and buildings should be vacated during fumigation, even when Cubans themselves do not do so.

Take care when ordering tropical fish in restaurants, especially grouper or snapper. Ciguatera poisoning occurs from time to time, and Cuban authorities are likely to cover up outbreaks.

In general, the Cuban health system is suffering from the fact that so many doctors and nurses are sent to Venezuela and other Latin American countries. The physician who is treating you may be alarmingly young, and doctors' knowledge is often not up to Western standards. Hygiene in public health facilities is sometimes shockingly poor. Cubans often need to take their own clean bedsheets and soap when they are admitted to clinical treatment. For Cubans, health services may be nominally free of charge, but many drugs they might need are not available in local currency and hence unaffordable.

The best health facilities in Cuba are reserved for tourists, who are directed to the Clinica Internacional Cira Garcia (4101 Calle 20 at Avenida 41, Miramar; phone 7-204-1633; http://www.cirag.cu). Service is of acceptable quality, although privacy and standards may be inferior to what most Western tourists are used to. Most doctors speak some English. Travelers who require medical services are generally required to pay in cash. Supplemental travel insurance to cover medical evacuation is recommended.

Cubans only have access to these facilities, including the well-stocked pharmacy, if they have convertible pesos and need a special drug available only there. The Hospital Hermanos Almeijanes (Avenida Padre Varela, corner of San Lazaro, Centro Habana; phone 896-1000) also has a special section for foreigners, but it is still best avoided in favor of Clinica Internacional Cira Garcia.

Local pharmacies are poorly stocked. Several pharmacies catering exclusively to foreigners have imported medicines adequate for most needs. The pharmacy in the Clinica Internacional Cira Garcia is open 24 hours and is the best.

Infrastructure in Havana makes little allowance for people with disabilities. Only a few hotels and restaurants built in recent years have wheelchair-accessible facilities. Many sidewalks are broken or potholed, and trees and other obstacles extend across sidewalks, causing additional hazards. Street corners are not equipped with audio signals for the blind, and relatively few have special ramps for wheelchairs. Nonetheless, residents go to great lengths to assist the disabled and others in need.

A good resource for help is the Asociacion Cubana de Limitados Fisicas y Motores (Cuban Association for Physically and Motor Disabled People), Calle 6 No. 106 (between avenidas Primera and Tercera), Miramar. Phone 7-202-5045. http://www.aclifim.sld.cu.

Do take baseball caps and balls to Cuba; they make great gifts, as do pencils and pens, which are in short supply and far too expensive for many Cubans to afford.

Don't buy cigars in the street: They are likely to be fake, and you are not allowed to take more than 20 cigars out of the country without showing proper shop receipts.

Do be sure if you stay in a casa particular (similar to a bed-and-breakfast) that it is licensed. If you invite a Cuban partner, be sure that the landlord is aware and records details of the Cuban (as required by law). Otherwise the landlord will face a hefty fine and, ultimately, the potential loss of his or her house; and be aware that state inspectors can enter the house at any time to check on foreigners and their Cuban partners.

Don't expect your credit card to work in upmarket state restaurants accepting it, as lines may be busy or broken down. It's highly recommended to be able to settle your bill in cash.

Don't bribe officials even when they make the first move; it could land you in serious trouble.

Don't ever buy rum from street vendors, as it has likely been adulterated or watered down.

Do check every restaurant bill carefully since items you never consumed may have been added, even at renowned places. And count your change carefully whenever you make any purchase.

Don't give begging children any money. Instead offer a pen or pencil, or some other useful item.

Do carry your passport (or a photocopy of it) at all times, especially if you have darker skin or may be taken for a Cuban—you may be refused entry to tourist installations by an overzealous watchman.

Don't try to take out of the country anything more than 40 years old or looking even vaguely like art unless you have an export license; your buys may be confiscated upon departure.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports and tourist visas are needed by all visitors to Cuba. It is not possible for U.S. citizens or residents to travel to Cuba for tourism. Anyone traveling to Cuba from the U.S., regardless of nationality, must comply with the regulations put forward by the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). Visitors to Cuba must obtain a license from OFAC, unless their travel is covered under the 12 categories of a general license that permits independent travel. This general license includes professional activities such as journalism and research, educational programs and cultural exchange.

In June 2017, President Donald Trump announced that an increasing level of scrutiny will be applied to travelers visiting Cuba under the general license. In addition, the administration announced that U.S. citizens would no longer be permitted to travel freely under the "people-to-people" group exchange program. U.S. citizens traveling to Cuba are now required to book their travel through a licensed tour operator. For more information, see https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/cuba.html.

Tourist visas (and specialist visas for journalists and professional research) can be obtained in advance from Cuban consulates, but most airlines also issue the visas upon check-in for your flight to Cuba. To renew and extend tourist cards and visas, go to the office at Calle 17 (between calles I and K) in Vedado Monday-Wednesday and Friday 8:30 am-4 pm or Thursday and Saturday 8:30-11 am, but expect long waits. Phone 836-7832.

All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America, and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.

Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda.

Population: 2,125,000.

Languages: Spanish.

Predominant Religions: Catholic, Protestant, Santeria.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 53, country code; 7,city code;

Currency Exchange The convertible peso (CUC) is the official Cuban currency for all transactions involving tourists. Those exchanging U.S. dollars are charged a 10% surcharge (called gravamen). Other currencies accepted for exchange (with no surcharge) are the Canadian dollar, the euro, the British pound and the Swiss franc. Banks and Cadeca exchange bureaus are located throughout Havana.

Euros are sometimes accepted for direct payment in major beach resorts, but not in Havana. Take only crisp new bills of your local currency to Cuba, as even bills with minimal faults may be refused. Cash is usually called efectivo in Cuba. Convertible pesos are called divisa, chavito, verde, fula or guano.

There is also a national currency (moneda nacional), used by local residents and useful for tourists to purchase small items such as stamps or bus tickets. In 2013, the Cuban government announced its plans to merge the two currencies, but as of yet, nobody knows how and when this will happen. Do not change money in the street: The rate will not be any better, and you are likely to be a victim of fraud.

U.S.-issued traveler's checks are not accepted, nor are credit or debit cards issued by U.S.-owned or operated banks. Credit cards and traveler's checks issued outside the U.S. are accepted but are subject to a varying surcharge on all purchases, but cashing traveler's checks can be extremely problematic.

There are ATMs linked to international systems at major banks and at a few select locations around Havana, but they are prone to technical issues and often run out of cash.

All banks are state-run. Most are open Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm (banks close at noon on the last working day of the month). Banks normally stay open during lunch. Avoid banking on Monday morning as banks may still be short on cash and refuse exchange transactions.

The Banco Financiero Internacional, at Calle Brasil (corner of Oficios) and the Banco Popular de Ahorro (La Rampa, corner of Calle J, Vedado) allow cash withdrawals with Visa and MasterCard (Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm). Take your passport. In all cases, count the cash you receive very carefully, as some bills may be missing. Refuse torn or tattered bills. Note that the casa de cambio at Calle Oficios and Lamparilla is notorious for shortchanging tourists, as are the numerous Cadeca bureaus.

Most international hotels offer money changing services, and unlike banks and Cadeca exchange bureaus, rates are not subject to government regulation. Rates may vary dramatically, but hotels don't always implement the 10 percent surcharge on US currency. Regardless, it's often still (much) cheaper to exchange money at banks and Cadeca exchange bureaus.

In financial emergencies, Asistur (208 Paseo Marti, Habana Vieja; phone 866-4499; http://www.asistur.cu) will help you arrange money transfers from your (non-American) bank to Cuba. It charges a commission of 10% plus CUC17 per CUC1,000 sent. Maximum delay is two days.

You can change back your remaining convertible pesos at the airport (they are worthless outside of Cuba).

There is no hotel or sales tax nor VAT system in Cuba, although a variable sales tax (impuesto al valor agregado) is added to a number of imported goods and services. If applicable, it's always included in the price. Many Cubans who work in the tourist industry rely on tips to survive. Be discreet when tipping in public and always place the money into hands.

Tip 10%-15% in restaurants. A 15% service charge is automatically added to your bill in many hotels and restaurants—don't assume that the waitstaff and other workers actually receive this. Private restaurants (paladares) also often include a service charge. Feel free to dispute this charge, especially where the service is lackluster.

Tip housekeepers generously and on the first day: The room service will improve enormously. Housekeepers often make only the equivalent of US$10 a month without tips. A CUC1 per day tip will suffice.

Weather

Havana's tropical climate is marked by warm winters and by hot summers, which can be insufferable. Cold spells occasionally strike Cuba in winter months, which for the most part are otherwise pleasant. The heaviest rainfall also occurs in summer months (May-October), when an umbrella is a good idea; summer rains typically occur in midafternoon, although prolonged downpours can last several days. Winter rains are usually associated with cold fronts and can be heavy and prolonged. Howling winter storms are not uncommon. Summer months also coincide with hurricane season (June-November). Cuba's western provinces have been struck by several hurricanes in recent years. Havana is prone to flooding and disruption of electricity. Late November, December and springtime are by far the best times to visit, with March and April the most pleasant months.

Pack hats and sunscreen to avoid sunburn. A sweater or light jacket is necessary for overly air-conditioned offices and restaurants, as well as for chilly nights (a cold-weather jacket is advisable for winter months).

Business suits are not required for business meetings, where a guayabera or other collared shirt will suffice for men, but high rollers might still prefer slightly more formal attire. Women can wear skirts and blouses.

Telephone

Public phones are everywhere. Most utilize tarjetas (phone card), sold at major stores and at centros telefonicos—international phone booths, found in major tourist areas. Phone cards for international calls are available in denominations of CUC5, CUC10 and CUC20. Overseas calls usually cost CUC4 per minute, while hotels often charge at least CUC6.

Cuba's formerly dilapidated phone system has been extensively upgraded and is now relatively reliable. In Havana, local numbers have seven digits. Outside Havana, local numbers have six or seven digits. Note that because of the digitization of the network, numbers are changing frequently. Seven-digit numbers in Habana Vieja and Centro Habana usually begin with 86, those in Vedado with 83, and those in Miramar with 202 or 204.

Direct outbound international calls can be made by dialing 119 and then the country code and number. Dial 0 and then, after a pause, dial 9 for the international operator. Dial 113 or 119 for operator-assisted calls to the U.S.

Cuba has no toll-free numbers. For emergencies, the Havana police number is 106 or 867-7777; countrywide, the emergency number is 116.

Any cellular phone with a SIM card from a U.S. provider will not work in Cuba. Cellular phone services in Cuba are provided by Cubacel, which has offices in Miramar and at Jose Marti International airport. (Cubacel, Avenida 5 and Calle 76, Edifico Barcelona, Centro de Negocios, Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-1640). SIM cards cost CUC3 per day. Pre-paid calling cards are available in denominations of CUC10, CUC20 and CUC40. Rates can run from CUC0.10 to CUC0.60 per minute depending on the time of day or package purchased. SMS messages are free to receive, but can cost between CUC0.16 and CUC1 to send.

Many Cubans have cell phones now, but few make outgoing calls on them so as to avoid the charge; instead, they text.

Havana has several internet outlets, including at many of the phone company Etecsa's centros telefonicos and at major post offices and libraries. Service in Etecsa's telepunto centers costs CUC6 per hour for dial-up internet service. For hotel computers, you must buy your card in the same hotel (even if they operate with Etecsa cards). In Habana Vieja, the cybercafes in hotels Inglaterra, Florida, Saratoga and Parque Central are recommended; in Vedado, check out the business centers of the Habana Libre and Nacional hotels. Jose Marti International Airport has internet access as well.

Connections are often painfully slow: It may take up to 15 minutes just to retrieve your email. Some websites may be blocked—for example, the Miami Herald or web publications of Cuban Americans. A few deluxe hotels have modem outlets in the rooms.

Wi-Fi access is readily available throughout international hotels in Havana, as well as in an increasing number of restaurants and bars. Wi-Fi is granted through Etecsa access cards, sold for CUC1.50 at the Etecsa office in Habana Vieja (Etecsa, 353 Calle Obispo between Habana and Compostela, Habana Vieja; phone 5-264-2266) and for considerably more in most hotels. Scratch off the rear panel on the card to reveal a password. Hotels such as Nacional, Parque Central and Ingleterra offer cards to nonguests, however a minimum purchase from the hotel bar is typically required.

You may be required to show your passport when booking an internet session in the hotel lobby or at an Etecsa outlet.

Facilities intended for use by Cubans are limited to intranet access within Cuba and do not permit broader internet access, other than national email service. Some Cubans working for foreign companies and select state institutions may have a workplace with full internet access and rent it out at night for a fee. Some owners of casas particulares have managed to get full internet access and usually charge CUC1 per hour to use it.

Visitors may take laptops into Cuba. They are no longer required to be registered upon arrival, but their content is subject to search. "Risky" material, including pornography (which is banned), may lead to the confiscation of your laptop, so it's best to wipe your hard drive before entering Cuba. Be sure your laptop has a traditional dial-up modem built in (the newer models won't), or take one including the connection kit and a phone cord or a spare Ethernet network cable.

Avoid sending any messages with derogatory comments about Cuba, since email content may be monitored by state security agents. Correos de Cuba Avenida Rancho Boyeros The Cuban postal service is notoriously unreliable and slow. The only mail that Havana, Cuba arrives in time are greeting cards sent for Mother's Day. (You don't mess with Cuban mothers.) All mail might be read by censors and is subject to confiscation, but Phone: 7-879-6824 postcards and letters (CUC0.75-CUC0.90, depending on the destination country) usually do arrive a few weeks later. If you buy stamps at tourist outlets, you will be charged in convertible pesos; if you go to a post office, you can pay in national pesos. Parcels should never be sent by correo. Monday-Saturday 8 am-6 pm. Avenida Rancho Boyeros, Vedado (on the north side of Plaza de la Revolucion), Havana. Phone 7-879-6824.

DHL Calle 26 DHL offers both domestic and international service. All packages must be presented unwrapped for inspection prior to mailing. Monday-Friday Havana, Cuba 8:30 am-6 pm, Saturday 8 am-2 pm. Calle 26 (corner Avenida Primera), Phone: 7-204-1378 Miramar, Havana. Phone 7-204-1378.

There are few newsstands or newsagents in Cuba and international consumer publications are not available.

The Cuban state controls all publications, which are focused primarily on praising the accomplishments of the Cuban system and offering derogatory comments of the U.S. and European nations, though this is not as prevalent since Raul Castro took office. The leading daily newspaper is Granma (http://granma.co.cu), a thin tabloid of the Cuban Communist Party. Other newspapers, such as Juventud Rebelde (http://www.juventudrebelde.cu) and Trabajadores (http://www.trabajadores.cu) are virtual political mirror copies but sometimes do offer mildly interesting articles. These publications list major events, including cinema programming.

Cultural publications, such as Bohemia (http://www.bohemia.cu) and Habanera, focus on city life. It may be difficult to find an outlet selling these publications. Cuban Review is published monthly in English and has lots of useful information for tourists. Lahabana is the best source for cultural events and listings. http://www.lahabana.com.

Transportation

Havana is a sprawling city. Fortunately, the main sights are concentrated in Habana Vieja, which is best explored on foot. Beyond Habana Vieja, distances are such that taxis are advisable in most situations. Under most circumstances, other public transportation is to be avoided, as service is uncomfortable and unpredictable. Air

The modern Jose Marti International Airport (HAV; phone 7-266-4644) is about 15 mi/24 km southwest of central Havana in Boyeros. Most international flights arrive and depart Terminal 3, which has an English-speaking tourist information booth, although it's not always staffed. Domestic flights of Cubana de Aviacion arrive and depart Terminal 1. U.S. charters are handled from Terminal 2, and flights of Aerocaribbean are handled by Terminal 5.

The terminals are a considerable distance from one another and are not connected by a bus service. Taxis are available outside the arrivals lounge of Terminals 2 and 3. Ask the fare before getting into the taxi, which will charge about CUC30-CUC35 for the 35-minute trip to the major hotels in the center of Havana. Only use official taxis, as robberies by private drivers posing as taxi operators have been reported. No bus or train service connects the airport to downtown Havana.

Car rentals are available from Cubacar, Rex and Via at Terminals 2 and 3. Visitors are advised against renting at the airport, where the fleet of vehicles is badly maintained and service is notoriously poor.

Omnibus Nacional Terminal de Omnibus Nacionales, This company operates regular public bus service to towns throughout Cuba. Tourists are no longer allowed to use these buses, except for Avenida Rancho Boyeros students registered for courses at Cuban institutions. Buses are always Havana, Cuba crowded, they are not well-maintained, and breakdowns are common. Phone: 7-870-3397 Terminal de Omnibus Nacionales, Avenida Rancho Boyeros (near Plaza de la Revolucion), Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-870-3397. Viazul Avenida 26 and Avenida Zoologico This company uses modern buses and offers superior service for foreigners, connecting Havana with key tourist destinations islandwide. Havana, Cuba Fares range CUC10-CUC51. Take a sweater or jacket to combat the Phone: 7-881-1413 air-conditioning. They are punctual on departures and are used almost http://www.viazul.com exclusively by tourists. Advance reservations are required via the company website or in person at the office. Avenida 26 and Avenida Zoologico, Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-881-1413. http://www.viazul.com.

A rental car can come in handy if you're staying in Miramar or if you plan on sightseeing in the suburbs or making excursions farther afield.

Driving around Havana is straightforward, although a map is essential. Most streets are well-marked, and newer Chinese traffic lights function efficiently, although many older lights may not. Hazards include potholes, stalled vehicles, meandering bicycles and lack of street lighting at night. Havana's traffic police are ubiquitous and overzealous to the point of abusing motorists; attempts to extort on-the-spot fines are uncommon and illegal, as all fines are added to your bill when you return the car. Keep your speed at the posted limits (usually 30 mph/50 kph within city limits) at all times. Seat belts must be worn by drivers and front-seat passengers. Cell phone use is not permitted.

State-run car rental outlets are located in all major hotels and at dozens of other locations throughout the city, although in the winter high season, demand far exceeds supply. Reservations, although highly recommended, are frequently not honored. Prices don't vary much and begin at CUC80 per day. Vehicles are poorly maintained; quite a few—even new imports—have no seatbelts. An exception is Rex (phone 7-733-9160; http://www.rexcarrental.com), which maintains its vehicles to a higher standard than competing agencies. You must be at least 21 to rent a car, but a fee will be added for any drivers younger than 25.

Be on the lookout for scams by the Cuban state-run rental car agencies. Typical scams include charging for year-old car damage, and charging you for not servicing the car if it passes a specific mileage (the contract states that the renter must take the vehicle to an authorized service center). Always inspect your car very closely before you drive off and make sure even the most innocent scratches are noted by the company to avoid trouble when you return it. Even if you do follow all the rules, you might never see your deposit again. You must pay in advance in cash for a full tank of gas (it might not be full, however), don't expect any credit for gas left in the tank when you return the car (gas will be siphoned off by employees), as your contract also states that you must return the vehicle with an empty tank. Gasoline (especial) costs CUC1.60 per liter. Note that your insurance company usually will not cover the theft of tires, which happens quite frequently to cars left unattended during the night.

Small, decrepit ferries link Habana Vieja to Casablanca and Regla, on the northern and eastern shores of Havana harbor. They are standing room only. You can take a bicycle onboard. Departures are ongoing, 24 hours, from the wharf at Avenida San Pedro (corner Santa Clara), in Habana Vieja. Bus Havana, Cuba Buses (also called guaguas) run to most parts of the city from Parque de la Fraternidad. There is no central bus station. Bus stops (paradas) display the bus route and number. No maps of bus routes are issued, and schedules are only loosely adhered to. Destinations are displayed above the front window. Although very cheap (flat fee of 40 centavos), Havana's extremely crowded buses are recommended only for well- seasoned travelers. Watch out for pickpockets. Female travelers are almost guaranteed to be inappropriately grabbed. The smaller Omnibuses Ruteros are comfortable and cost 110 centavos, paid upon boarding. There is usually a long line.

Servicio ExpoCuba Calle Tulipan and Hidalgo Small electric commuter trains operate from Estacion 19 de Noviembre to San Antonio de los Banos. Departures Wednesday-Sunday from 9:35 Havana, Cuba am. Calle Tulipan and Hidalgo, Nuevo Vedado, Havana. Phone 7-881- Phone: 7-881-4431 4431.

Havana is a port of call for several U.S. and non-U.S. cruise companies. Ships berth at Terminal Sierra Maestra, on Avenida del Puerto. It opens onto Plaza de San Francisco in Habana Vieja. Facilities include car rental and a cafe, and taxis are available. Havana has a fairly efficient taxi system (although many vehicles are not in the best shape, and few have seatbelts). Expect to pay CUC3-CUC5 for trips between Habana Vieja and Centro, CUC10 between Habana Vieja and Vedado, and CUC10-CUC15 between Habana Vieja and Miramar.

There are official metered Cubataxis (operating yellow Ladas and more modern and slightly more expensive turistaxis); and informal taxis (unmetered vintage automobiles) called colectivos that are also allowed to pick up tourists. The price for the latter is 10 pesos (CUC0.50). Most people who own an old battered Lada will offer clandestine taxi services (taxi particular) and will often stop if waved down. All taxi drivers are self-employed: Cubataxi drivers lease their vehicles from the state. Hence, few taxis have meters and you are expected to negotiate the fare before setting off. If you don't do so, expect the driver to inflate the fare when you arrive at your destination. To hail an informal taxi, just raise your hand and seconds later a car will stop to take your convertible pesos.

Cubataxis (phone 7-855-5555) are radio-dispatched, but can also be hailed outside almost any hotel and on the street. Grancar (phone 7-855-5567) offers trips with vintage American cars. They are chauffeur-driven and cost CUC35-CUC50 per hour or CUC225 per day. Convertibles are CUC50 per hour and CUC250 per day.

The open-air yellow cocotaxis on three wheels (shaped like eggs) are fun to use, although not in the rain. They charge the same as regular taxis. However, they're uncomfortable for longer distances, and you really don't want to risk an accident with them.

Another form of taxi service is the bicycle-drawn carriage (bicitaxi). You can use them to tour Habana Vieja or ride between Habana Vieja and Vedado, but they aren't convenient for traveling greater distances. Note that (in theory) you can use only bicitaxis that have a hard-currency license. Short trips will set you back CUC3, longer ones (from Habana Vieja to Vedado) about CUC5. Be sure to agree on a fare beforehand, as many bicitaxi drivers will try to extort money at the end of your trip.

Trains to destinations throughout Cuba depart the Estacion Central de Ferrocarril, but some can no longer be used by tourists. An exception is the main service that links Havana to Santiago de Cuba. First- and second- class cabins are available (CUC62 and CUC30, respectively), but your carriage is guaranteed to be filthy and air-conditioned to the point of inducing hypothermia. FerroCuba handles reservations and ticket sales for foreigners. Trying to identify the correct place to purchase your ticket can be an exercise in frustration; check with the Terminal La Coubre. Avenida Belgica, Havana. Phone 7-861-1959.

For More Information

Additional Reading

Cuba Classics: A Celebration of Vintage American Automobiles by Christopher P. Baker (Interlink).

Cuba Diaries: An American Housewife in Havana by Isadora Tatlin (Algonquin).

Cuban Revelations: Behind the Scenes in Havana by Marc Frank (University of Florida Press).

Havana: Autobiography of a City by Alfredo Jose Estrada (Palgrave Macmillan).

The Other Side of Paradise: Life in the New Cuba by Julia Cooke (Seal Press).

Infotur Calle 28 No. 303, between Third and The state-run tourist information bureau operates booths throughout Fifth avenues Havana, including at Jose Marti International Airport. The main office serving tourists is on Calle Obispo (corner of Bernaza), in Habana Vieja. Havana, Cuba Daily 8:30 am-8:30 pm. Calle 28 No. 303, between Third and Fifth Phone: 7-204-0624 avenues, Havana. Phone 7-204-0624 or 7-204-0624. http://www.infotur.cu http://www.infotur.cu.

EVENTS

Calendar Havana celebrates several large festivals throughout the year, including the Cigar Festival (February) and Carnaval de la Habana (August). Performing-arts festivals such as the International Ballet Festival (October), the International Festival of New Latin American Cinema (November and December) and International Jazz Festival (December) are popular with tourists and locals.

For more information on events in Havana, contact the Oficina de Turismo de La Habana. Phone 7-537-866-333. http://www.infotur.cu.

May

1 May—May Day Parade Crowds of around 100,000 gather in the Plaza de la Revolucion for this annual parade and rally, the biggest political holiday in Cuba. Events take place in Havana in the week leading up to May 1.

Late October—Havana International Ballet Festival This biannual festival puts the Cuban International Ballet on display at the Gran Teatro de la Habana. Continues through early November

Early November—Havana International Ballet Festival This biannual festival puts the Cuban International Ballet on display at the Gran Teatro de la Habana. Concludes early November