KATE INPERSON EXPECTATIONS AERIN LAUDER BUILDS AS HER BABY BUMP GROWS, HER OWN BRAND. DESIGNERS SUGGEST IDEAS SECTION II FOR WHAT THE EXPECTING DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE MIGHT WEAR. PAGES 6 AND 7

BOWING TO PRESSURE Bangladesh, Retailers In Key Safety Steps

By KRISTI ELLIS and MAYU SAINI

IN A MAJOR VICTORY for labor rights activists, the Bangladesh government on Monday granted the right of workers to form trade unions in the core textile and apparel industry. The move came in a day of dramatic developments TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY as fi ve of Europe’s largest retailers — H&M, Inditex, C&A, Primark and Tesco — agreed to sign a binding, WWD fi ve-year fi re and building safety agreement covering hundreds of factories and thousands of garment work- ers in Bangladesh. The decision came in the wake of one of the worst industrial accidents in history as the collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory building in Savar, Bangladesh, has now claimed the lives of 1,127 people. The companies said Monday they will sign on to a new agreement called the “Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh” with labor unions that requires that companies mandate and pay for reno- vation and repairs to ensure factories in Bangladesh are made safe, among other provisions. Noticeably missing from the new group of com- Q’s panies agreeing to sign the accord on Monday were U.S. retailers and brands. PVH Corp., owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfi ger, which signed the origi- nal agreement last year along with German retailer Tchibo, is the only American company to date that has signed the accord. PVH said Monday it has agreed in principle to sign the revised agreement and will com- mit up to $2.5 million to underwrite the program. That The agreement is a legally enforceable pact with unions, including IndustriALL Global Union, UNI Global Union and numerous Bangaldeshi apparel unions. Nongovernmental organizations including the Worker Rights Consortium, Clean Clothes Campaign, International Labor Rights Forum and Maquila Solidarity Network will sign the accord as witnesses. Girl? The new agreement is a legally enforceable con- tract between brands and retailers and unions, which QMack, The Jones Group Inc.’s new will go to binding arbitration to resolve disputes. It homegrown brand for Millennial stipulates that companies will agree to independent shoppers at Macy’s Impulse SEE PAGE 3 departments, launches in August with a charming mix of items meant to be IPO Fever Heightens combined in multiple ways. Here, one look from the collection: a polyester and By VICKI M. YOUNG rayon faux-leather bomber over a cotton GET READY for IPO fever. sweater and polyester and wool skirt. According to IPO Boutique, which tracks initial For more on QMack and other new public offerings, there were 143 active IPOs in the pipeline as of Monday, covering all sectors. Macy’s exclusives, see pages 4 and 5. The fashion world is right in the mix, and one of the fi rst out of the gate could be a $700 million IPO for Coty Inc., which could hit the market as early as next month. Coty fi rst fi led to go public last May but then pulled those plans. An updated fi ling of its plans, an S-1/A with the Securities and Exchange Commission, appears imminent. Also in the pipeline is Claire’s Inc., the teen acces- sories retailer acquired in 2007 for $3.1 billion by pri- vate equity fi rm Apollo Management. Claire’s on May 3 fi led to raise $100 million in an IPO. The fi ling said proceeds will be used to repay debt. Others are said to be eyeing the stock market for fashion companies, although they haven’t fi led their shelf registrations. As reported, private equity firms TPG Capital and Warburg Pincus are studying an IPO option for Neiman Marcus Inc. as they seek to cash in on their investment. Credit analysts have been saying that Bain Capital is also considering an IPO as an exit strategy for Burlington Coat Factory. Kellwood Co., which is owned by private equity fi rm Sun Capital Partners, is said to be mulling a par- tial spin-off of its Vince unit. Vince has selected Goldman Sachs Group Inc. and Robert W. Baird & Co. to lead an IPO that could PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013

Ferragamo Q1 Profits Rise THE BRIEFING BOX month to the next, but the luxury market is showing By LUISA ZARGANI resilience,” said Norsa. “We definitely see a general IN TODAY’S WWD slowdown, especially versus very strong quarters in MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo SpA saw net prof- the past.” However, Norsa touted the U.S. and Latin its more than double in the first quarter, driven by a American markets as “overperforming,” and cited solid performance worldwide and continued growth the fact that, in Brazil, the company bought back in its core footwear and leather goods categories. three retail stores and distribution. In the three months ended March 31, the International tourists helped lift sales in Europe Florence-based fashion house reported net profits by 10 percent. Norsa said there is “still good traffic” of 24.3 million euros, or $32 million, compared with in Europe, “sustained by travelers, who are still in- 12 million euros, or $15.7 million, in the same pe- creasing at a 4 to 5 percent rate.” riod last year. Including minority interests of 2 mil- Norsa also cited future developments in lion euros, or $2.6 million, as a consequence of the travel retail through hefty investments by air- buy-back of stakes in the distribution companies in lines in new airports in China, Thailand, Dubai, Greater China, Korea and South East Asia, profits Indonesia and Istanbul.

rose 57 percent to 27 million euros, or $35.6 million, The unfavorable impact of fluctuations of the ODELS M compared with 17 million euros, or $22.2 million, in Japanese yen versus the euro contributed to an 8 per- Xxxxx. Xxxxx. PAGE X the same period last year. cent decrease in sales in Japan. At constant exchange,

Hannah Noble, the RUMP T

Revenues increased 9 percent to 282 million euros, sales would have been up 4 percent in that country. latest subject of or $372.2 million, compared with 260 million euros, or At the end of March, Ferragamo had 339 directly “Model Call.” For OF Xxxxx. Xxxxx. PAGE X $340.6 million, in the first quarter of last year. operated stores, while the wholesale and travel more, see WWD.com. The Asia-Pacific area continued to be the retail channel included 261 third-party operated COURTESY group’s main market, accounting for 36 percent of stores, as well as a presence in department stores sales, and totaling 102 million euros, or $134.6 mil- and high-level multibrand specialty stores. lion, up 6 percent compared with the same period The group’s footwear category grew 8 percent, last year. A major contribution came once again and handbags and leather accessories rose 13 per- Among the 143 active initial public offerings in the pipeline, from the retail channel in China, which posted 20 cent, together accounting for more than 74 percent Coty Inc. is expected to be the first out of gate for the fashion percent growth. of total sales. “Small leather goods showed a very and beauty world. PAGE 1 “China is still growing, in a different way. good contribution to profitability,” said Norsa. Second- and third-tier cities are showing stronger Fragrances rose 14 percent. Five of Europe’s largest retailers and brands have agreed to growth through local shoppers and travelers from Operating costs grew 3 percent, reaching 136 sign a fire and building safety agreement covering hundreds other regions in the country,” said chief executive million euros, or $179.5 million. of factories in Bangladesh. PAGE 1 officer Michele Norsa in a conference call with ana- Investments rose 20 percent to 10 million lysts. “Hong Kong, Macao and Australia are over- euros, or $13.2 million, mainly driven by new Macy’s has taken another leap forward in its quest to performing, while Korea and Singapore are show- stores and the enlargement and refurbishment of attract the Millennial male, launching a new private label for ing a mixed performance.” existing key locations. fall called the Bar III Carnaby Collection. PAGE 4 Sales increased 19 percent in North America and As of March 31, net debt stood at 33 million more than 13 percent in Central and South America. euros, or $43.5 million, compared with 22 million QMack, The Jones Group Inc.’s new brand centered around “We are doing business in a mixed scenario, euros, or $28.8 million, at the end of March of last 13 key items with the Millennial customer at Macy’s in mind, with an uncertain political situation in Southern year, as a consequence of the purchase of the mi- will launch on Aug. 1. PAGE 5 Europe, and the U.S. and Japan uneven from one nority stakes in Asia.

The Duchess of Cambridge represents a growing set of pregnant women choosing to dress their bumps in nonmaternity wares. PAGE 8 Ck Calvin Klein Line to Be Re-branded Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. provided investors with a disappointing glimpse at its first-quarter results, prompting a By LISA LOCKWOOD 7 percent decline in its stock. PAGE 9

FAREWELL, ck Calvin Klein. Condé-nologists have been wondering when Anna Wintour’s Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of name and new title, artistic director, would start appearing on PVH Corp., said Monday that it will re-brand the com- the mastheads of the company’s magazines. PAGE 9 pany’s women’s and men’s bridge apparel and acces- sories simply as Calvin Klein featured on a platinum The Frieze Art Fair in New York gave those scenesters with label. The global rollout of the name change will start even the slightest connection to the art world reason enough this fall with watches and jewelry. The global bridge for a party over the weekend. PAGE 10 apparel and accessories business is currently con- ducted under the brand name ck Calvin Klein, and Performance-related stock and option awards boosted the the change will begin phasing in over the next year. compensation of PVH Corp. chief executive officer Emanuel The fragrances will remain ck and CK One. Chirico more than 45 percent last year. According to the company, the Calvin Klein PAGE 11 platinum label re-branding is part of a strategy to strengthen the global growth strategies for Calvin Rarely could a funeral be more colorful than Ottavio Missoni’s, as attendees wore multihued zigzagged, twirly and Klein across product categories and geographies. Ck Calvin Klein will be re-branded. Last fall, when PVH Corp. said it was acquiring patterned scarves, lightweight knits and shirts. PAGE 12 Warnaco Group Inc., which is the worldwide li- In Asia and Japan, in coordination with licens- censee of Calvin Klein Jeans and the owner of the ing partners Club21 and Onward Kashiyama, ON WWD.COM Calvin Klein trademarks for underwear, sleepwear respectively, the Calvin Klein platinum label and loungewear, it spoke about the reunification of re-branding of men’s and women’s apparel and ac- MODEL CALL: At 16 years old, Hannah Noble was discovered “The House of Calvin Klein,” positioned to capture cessories will be introduced in the spring 2014 sea- while hanging out at a local mall near her hometown in England, the growth potential of the Calvin Klein brand and son. Freestanding stores opening this year in Asia and six months later, she was a Prada runway exclusive. have one brand steward with one global vision. will have the new branding, and existing stores will For more, see WWD.com. “I believe that this re-branding, and the efforts be transitioned on a rolling basis, beginning this we are taking to enhance our own bridge apparel summer. The re-branding in Europe of the women’s and accessory offerings, will benefit the brand and men’s bridge apparel lines is expected to fol- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS image and result in the enhancement and expan- low the Asian introduction in a phased manner. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. sion of the Calvin Klein lifestyle,” said Tom Murry, Calvin Klein’s line of women’s and men’s watch- COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. chief executive officer of Calvin Klein. es and jewelry, produced with licensing partner VOLUME 205, NO. 99. TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Calvin Klein’s bridge apparel and accessories busi- Swatch Group, was introduced at Baselworld 2013 additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance ness in Europe was integrated into PVH’s existing in Basel, Switzerland, with the new branding. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, European organization and commercial infrastructure Calvin Klein’s business will now be comprised Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, last year. That operation is headed by Daniel Grieder, of three distinct brand tiers, each with its own mar- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver ceo of Tommy Hilfiger Europe and PVH Europe, who keting identity and position, and differentiated Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North reports to Fred Gehring, ceo of Tommy Hilfiger and through brand-specific advertising, channels of dis- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. PVH International Operations. Michael Arts is head of tribution and product design. The three tiers are: Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or sales, merchandising and brand management of Calvin Q Calvin Klein Collection, the “halo” brand that inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Klein Europe BV, also reporting to Gehring. There is sets the tone for the company’s other designer is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. no ck Calvin Klein bridge apparel business in the U.S. brands. Shown on the runways in New York and You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt At the end of 2011, the ck Calvin Klein brand Milan, Calvin Klein Collection is designed by cre- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request generated about $1 billion in global retail sales, ative directors Francisco Costa for women’s and for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at achieved primarily in Asia and Europe. Italo Zucchelli for men’s. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Kevin Carrigan, Calvin Klein brands’ global cre- Q Calvin Klein platinum label is the “bridge” we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at ative director, will continue to oversee the creative sportswear and accessories tier. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED direction for bridge apparel, while Ulrich Grimm, Q Calvin Klein white label represents the base of the ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER creative director for all of the Calvin Klein brands’ company’s brand pyramid and is the “better” tier of UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR footwear and accessories lines, will continue to over- sportswear and accessories, and includes the Calvin DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A see the design of handbags and small leather goods. Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear brands. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ZDDLQGG 30  WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 3 WWD.COM Four European Firms Sign Bangladesh Accord {Continued from page one} main, but the inspections, commitment, prove the standards for workers across the factory owners, associations like the safety inspections with public reports; expertise and accountability that big the industry. This is why Wal-Mart has Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer and mandatory repairs and renovations, en- multinational brands bring would go.” been advocating for improved worker Exporter Association [BGMEA] and the suring factories have the money to pay for Groups hailed the steps taken by five safety with the Bangladeshi government, government. As the workers do not have all repairs, renovations and retrofitting by major European firms and stepped up with industry groups and with suppliers. elected representatives, the movements raising prices or paying for renovations the pressure on U.S. retailers and brands We know that continued engagement is sometimes become anarchic.” directly; require factory owners that are to join. critical to ensure that reliable, proac- The government approval of trade considered top-tier suppliers to a brand “We are talking about the largest tive measures are in place and we are unions comes on the heels of an an- or retailer to allow union representatives fashion retailer, Inditex, and the larg- continuing to work with the industry as- nouncement on Sunday that a wage to have regular access to their factories, est buyer in Bangladesh, H&M, plus two sociation, suppliers, brands and other in- board would be constituted to look at rec- and terminate business with any factory other major companies and the original terested parties to come to an appropri- ommendations to increase the minimum that refuses to make necessary safety up- two, PVH and German retailer Tchibo,” ate resolution on this matter and develop wage for workers and would be consid- grades. It also requires “a vital role” for said Scott Nova, executive director of broad-based solutions for the industry.” ered retroactively as of May 1. workers and their unions, requiring the the Worker Rights Consortium. “We have Eva Sage-Gavin, executive vice The minimum wage for garment establishment of health and safety com- heard nothing from Gap, nothing from president of global human resources workers is 3,000 takas, or $38.55. It was mittees in all covered factories with work- Wal-Mart on this, in terms of a public and corporate affairs at Gap Inc., said last increased in 2010, from 1662.50 er representatives comprising at least 50 commitment. The clock is ticking. Monday the retailer is ready to sign the takas, or $21.36. percent of the membership. “There are now hundreds of factories Bangladesh agreement if the labor groups “It is as if the deaths have not been The signatory companies are required in Bangladesh covered by this agreement,” are willing to make one modification. absolutely in vain,” said Mohammed to develop a full implementation plan Nova added. “That in and of itself is enor- “For the past two years, we have sat at Altaf, a worker from the Savar district, a within 30 to 45 days. mous. There are many other major brands the table with key stakeholders with the suburb of Dhaka. “It is a sad way to make “Fire and building safety are ex- and retailers producing there and we would intention of creating a sustainable, multi- things change, and it comes at a very tremely important issues for us, and we like to see all of them sign on. We are sure retailer and multistakeholder agreement,” high cost, but at least we are seeing the

put a lot of effort and resources within government react.” this area,” said Helena Helmersson, Farah Kabir, country director, H&M’s head of sustainability. “H&M has ActionAid International, said that trade for many years taken the lead to improve The Rana Plaza garment factory unions needed to be given the freedom and secure the safety of the workers in tragedy has now claimed the lives to represent workers and manufactur- the garment industry. With this commit- of 1,127 people. ers needed to consult them to better the

ment, we can now influence even more in lot of the 3.6 million garment workers in this issue. We hope for a broad coalition Bangladesh. “The Savar tragedy should of signatures in order for the agreement not have happened. I was very angry to work effectively on ground.” and upset because it was something that Helmersson called the accord a “prag- was avoidable. When workers were told matic step toward addressing improved they had to go in, they could not bargain fire and building safety” in the apparel ·· for themselves when they were told they industry in Bangladesh, adding that it would lose their wages or their jobs if they will add to H&M’s existing and extensive did not go in,” she said, while explaining S

strict requirements on its suppliers. She E that trade unions could help ensure better said in order to make an impact, the ac- AG working conditions for workers. cord will need the signatures of a broad While the cabinet agreed to trade coalition of brands and retailers to align unions, a section of the Labour Act which with government, industry associations addresses the payment for laborers was R/AFP/GETTY IM

and trade unions on the Bangladesh T also amended. government’s “National Action Plan” to The proposed change would ensure reach the industry’s 5,000 factories. that workers’ benefits increase. Under

C&A called the agreement a “mile- S PHOTO BY the plan, if a worker has worked for stone,” building on a series of steps the more than 15 years for a company, he retailer has taken to improve working or she would get one month’s salary for conditions and fire safety in Bangladesh each year employed by the company as a after the tragic fire at Tazreen Fashions in bonus. If workers have worked for a com- November that killed 112 garment workers. It is as if the deaths have not been absolutely pany for at least one year, they would get “Alongside the strong commitments to one month’s equivalent salary as gratuity. fire safety measures, the promised support in vain. It is a sad way to make things change, In addition, group insurance for em- for people impacted by the fire is also in ployees would be stressed, with the stipu- progress,” C&A said. “With the committed and it comes at a very high cost, but at least lation that any garment factory with more financial backing of the C&A Foundation, than 100 laborers would have to ensure more than 1 million euros [$1.3 million] group insurance, which would also cover has been budgeted for programs to sup- we are seeing the government react. death and similar unforeseen circum- port the longer term needs of various stances, and for more than 5,000 employ- groups of victims of the Tazreen fire.” — BANGLADESH WORKER MOHAMMED ALTAF ees, the factory must have a health clinic. Tesco confirmed late in the day The announcement was made even on Monday that it also had joined in as in Savar, the rescue mission that has the agreement. there will be major companies holding out. Sage-Gavin said. “Our view continues to been going on since April 24 was halted. “Tesco did not use factories in the We also expect a number of additional com- be that the right multisector partnership Having retrieved 1,127 dead from Rana Plaza building, but we are all re- panies to sign in the days ahead.” is the best way to lead to systemic, lasting the debris of the building, Maj. Gen. sponsible for ensuring we prevent an- Rep. George Miller (D., Calif.), who with change in the country. We’re pleased that Chowdhury Hasan Sarwardy, command- other tragedy,” Tesco Group commercial Rep. Sander Levin (D., Mich.), has called an accord is within reach, and Gap Inc. ing officer of the Ninth Infantry Division director Kevin Grace wrote on the com- on the Obama administration to con- is ready to sign on today with a modifica- of the Bangladesh Army, said that the op- pany’s blog Monday. “For the multina- vene a meeting of major apparel brands tion to a single area — how disputes are eration was now over. tional retailers like Tesco who source and retailers, applauded the action by resolved in the courts. This proposal is “We have ended the rescue operation from Bangladesh, we must help it to the European retailers on Monday and on the table right now with the parties in- as there is no possibility of any persons change in a positive way, a way which pressed U.S. companies to sign the accord. volved. With this single ch··ange, this glob- or bodies being trapped under the rub- sustains and improves the livelihoods of “They made the correct decision for al, historic agreement can move forward ble,” he said, adding that 2,438 people all those who work in the industry.” their brand’s reputation and, more impor- with a group of all retailers, not just those had been rescued and 282 were still Grace said Tesco has 54 people in tantly, for the lives and safety of workers based in Europe.” being treated in hospital. Dhaka working on improving standards in Bangladesh,” Miller said. “Now, it is Gap said its own four-point plan in The heavy equipment that the army at the 100 garment factories Tesco works time for other retailers and brands, in- October that includes a commitment of brought in was removed from the site on with in Bangladesh. cluding Wal-Mart, J.C. Penney, the Gap, financial support of up to $22 million Monday and the building would officially “Some argue that by staying in the the Children’s Place and others, to become so that improvements are made in the be handed over to the local area manage- meantime we are complicit in the exploi- signatories of a strong building and fire Bangladesh garment industry. The com- ment on Tuesday, Sarwardy said. tation of poor workers to satisfy demand safety plan for their workers. These com- pany currently contracts with 78 facto- However, unrest among garment work- for affordable clothing. The right thing to panies’ continued absence in joining this ries in Bangladesh, she said. ers has been continuing, and in Ashulia, do, they say, is to leave and only return agreement is inexcusable. Their absence Unions are seen as key to the devel- an industrial area where clusters of gar- when standards have improved,” Grace from this agreement shows a callous in- opment of improved safety standards ment factories are located, there were said. “We don’t see it that way, and never difference to the death and suffering of and better working conditions in the protests by workers on Monday. Police offi- have, nor do the unions who represent their de facto employees in Bangladesh Bangladeshi sector. Under the govern- cials said that the protesters grew violent, workers globally and others who fight for who make the products that are placed on ment’s action Monday, workers can now attacking vehicles as well as factories. their rights every day. They tell us to stay, store shelves around the world.” form unions without a company’s prior Local press reports said that the pro- but stay and share the responsibility for A Wal-Mart Stores Inc. spokeswom- approval, according to Mohammad test was in reaction to the death of a fe- making the lives of people in our supply an said: “We’ve nothing to announce Mosharraf Hossain, cabinet secretary. male worker inside a garment factory. chain — who work for us — better and right now,” when asked about the new “Labor unions are important for a sus- Fearing a more widespread reaction, safer. If multinational retailers left, it Bangladesh labor agreement. “At Wal- tainable development of the industry,” Roy BGMEA on Sunday said that factories in would damage the industry, the economy Mart, our goal is to positively impact Ramesh, secretary general, IndustriALL Ashulia would stay closed on Tuesday and ultimately the people who rely on it. global supply chain practices both by Bangladesh, told WWD. “These would for an indefinite period. According to Clothing may still be made because the raising our own standards and by part- help ensure a meaningful social dialogue police officials, BGMEA later retracted demand for affordable clothing would re- nering with other stakeholders to im- between the stakeholders, including the statement.

ZDDLQGG 30  4 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 Macy’s Looks to Broaden Appeal Macy's continues to court a younger customer with its new offerings. QMack by the Jones Group has its eye on Millennials, and the Bar III Carnaby Collection channels Savile Row with superslim silhouettes. The retailer is also beefing up its contemporary area by bringing a taste of Paris Stateside with Maison Jules.

Maison Jules Bar III Carnaby Collection PARIS — Macy’s is bringing Paris style MACY’S HAS TAKEN another leap to the masses with the launch of Maison forward in its quest to attract the Jules, a new private label inspired by the Millennial male, launching a new pri- Stateside success of French contempo- vate label for fall called the Bar III rary brands. Carnaby Collection. The department store will launch the “It’s very contemporary,” said Nancy women’s wear line in August in 151 of its Slavin, senior vice president of market- top doors. The fall collection, featuring ing for Macy’s Merchandising Group. everything from striped knit tops to flirty Billed as “a modern and sophisti- polka dot dresses, will retail from $17.50 cated spin on traditional British hab- for basics, with dresses and woven tops erdashery,” the Carnaby Collection beginning at $59, and pants costing up- features suit separates, sport coats, wards of $44. vests, trousers, dress shirts and neck- Nancy Slavin, senior vice president wear with superslim silhouettes. of marketing, Macy’s Merchandising Inspired by London’s Savile Row, the Group, said the line was part of Macy’s offering includes tweed, herringbone ongoing push to expand its contempo- and corduroy fabrics, checks and flo- rary business under the Impulse um- ral patterns and a rich color palette. brella. Maison Jules will sit alongside Macy’s will unveil the line at a press brands such as Bar III, Kensie and preview in New York today. Rachel Rachel Roy. “Bar III is a brand we launched “We have been looking at the influence two years ago,” Slavin said, “[to ap- of the invasion of all these French brands peal] to the Millennial Impulse cus- that are coming and making an important tomer.” The retailer was “aggres- appearance in the States, whether it’s sive” about its introduction into the AITRE

Sandro, Maje, Zadig & Voltaire or Comptoir M women’s arena and expanded into

des Cotonniers,” Slavin told WWD. men’s sportswear “and a little tai- “And while they are still limited [in] lored clothing” about 18 months ago. distribution, they are influencing and “The tailored clothing piece took off DOMINIQUE Garance Doré

bringing the Parisian street style to the BY on location with incredibly well.” United States. And I think our young con- Jeanne Damas. She said Macy’s historically has

PHOTOS had a more traditional tailored cloth- ing bent, “but now with Bar III, we brand, in addition to organizing a launch see a huge opportunity and void we event during New York Fashion Week. can fill in the assortment for slim and the men’s Impulse marketing and ad- “We also know that we need to be pros- extra-slim fit.” vertising initiatives. In stores, it will pecting and we need to be public, so using Slavin added that Macy’s also “has be presented as a lifestyle collection, the social media outlets of Jeanne Damas a very developed collections business, with all pieces of the line merchan- and Garance Doré will be important, be- but this is faster. It provides us more of dised together. “It will have very spe- cause they have followers and they have a footprint for the younger customer.” cial visuals,” she said, noting that she devotees that are not Macy’s shoppers,” Retail prices for the Carnaby believes it will sell best when “a guy Slavin noted. Collection, which will hit stores and sees it all pulled together.” Doré shot the campaign in Paris last online on Sept. 1, include shirts for She said that the Bar III brand week, against backdrops including the $57.50, pants for $150, sport coats for will continue to be the primary focus Eiffel Tower, the Palais Royal and the $295 and vests for $90. “That falls for the store, since “that’s the brand bookstalls along the Seine River. Taking within the price points of much of our we’re trying to build.” And while a lunch break on the Place des Vosges, men’s tailored clothing,” she said. trend collections tend to come and go, she noted that Damas was very much Slavin said that depending upon the master brands remain. like the girls she regularly approaches the consumer reaction, the line will Interestingly, Macy’s sister com- for her blog. continue beyond the fall season. “We pany, Bloomingdale’s, is also jump- “I know that girl. She’s, like, my young- will do it in a step-out way and see ing on the British bandwagon for fall. er sister,” Doré said. “If you look at my how the customer votes,” she said. Last week, Bloomingdale’s revealed blog, it’s really the type of people that “We would love to see some longev- that it was planning a major British I like to shoot. I think the little dress is ity with this, and if it’s successful, it promotion which will include a large really like what the Parisian girl would could continue in spring 2014.” assortment of exclusive products and wear every day, because it’s easy.” The collection will be marketed in designer additions. Doré, who lives in New York with magazine advertising, online and in — JEAN E. PALMIERI her partner Scott Schuman, aka The Sartorialist, noted that French women tend to be less polished than their U.S. The Carnaby Collection counterparts. is billed as “a modern “I think that what fascinates American and sophisticated spin women is the easiness of the French on traditional British temporary girl is very, very aware of these style,” she mused. “We’re less into the haberdashery.” brands,” she added. “So we’re building trends. We’re more into what really looks a collection that really sort of emulates good on us.” what this classically French chic ingenue The diminutive Damas, who is study- has in her wardrobe, and we’re bringing ing to be an actor, got her modeling start it to Macy’s.” alongside her mother in a Comptoir des Styles include tops with a vintage bike Cotonniers campaign and has since ap- print, floral skirts and animal-print dress- peared in ads and short films for Lacoste, es, with a color palette including burgun- Petit Bateau and Costume National, dy, peach, navy and yellow. among others. The line is aimed at women aged 18 She confessed that modeling the to 30, a group that Slavin described as Maison Jules outfits was not much of a increasingly nomadic and sophisticated. stretch. “It’s very Parisian, very fresh, so I She hopes Maison Jules, which will also could easily picture myself wearing these be sold online, will eventually be avail- kinds of clothes,” Damas noted. able nationwide. Macy’s plans to eventually extend “When we launch brands, we go slow the line from women’s to other catego- to go fast. So this is going to be an all-door ries, such as men’s wear, accessories or brand at some point,” Slavin predicted. home wares. With an eye turned to social media, “The name Jules is sort of dual gen- Macy’s has enlisted blogger Garance der,” Slavin explained. “We’re always Doré to shoot the visuals for the Maison thinking about a master brand strategy Jules campaign, starring French “It” girl as being all-encompassing to all the pos- Jeanne Damas. The retailer plans to cre- sibilities of the lifestyle.” ate a dedicated micro Web site for the — JOELLE DIDERICH

ZD  DLQGG 30  WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14 , 2013 5 WWD.COM

Looks from QMack, The Jones Group’s new brand, centered Macy’s Looks to Broaden Appeal around 13 key items. QUINO A

JOHN BY PHOTOS

QMack From Jones would wear during the day, in a profes- It’s the first sportswear brand Jones tional flair. Everything has a handle. sional environment…that was really a developed for its portfolio from scratch She has a ‘Quinterest’ wall. She is NEW YORK — “You could throw it up in gap for us.” (its denim division frequently creates on ‘Quinstagram.’ She is a walking the air, and it could land on the floor and Enter QMack, based on the name new brands). omnichannel.” still all go together.” Quincey Mack, a fictional charac- “If we look back at Jones Group’s his- The hangtags also come with catchy That’s how Stefani Greenfield de- ter serving as the muse of the brand. tory, we have incredibly well-known and slogans, including “I wear anywhere scribed the lineup of QMack, The Jones Greenfield had a specific set of inspira- well-regarded legacy brands, and we and everywhere” for outerwear; “Great Group Inc.’s new brand centered around tions. “It was Blake Lively-meets-Zoe have new brands that are driving a new pants never go out of style” for pants; 13 key items with the Millennial cus- Saldana,” she said. “She was sorority- customer to the portfolio with Rachel “The journey is always better in a tomer at Macy’s in mind. The executive, sister-meets-best-friend. She was a mix Roy, Brian Atwood, Robert Rodriguez dress” for dresses; “Skirts are my first until last month Jones’ chief creative of- between Charlotte and Carrie in ‘Sex and Kurt Geiger,” said Richard Dickson, love” for wovens, and “I layer and live ficer and now serving as its global cre- and the City.’ We thought maybe we’d president and chief executive officer of in” for sweaters. ative consultant, spearheaded the collec- give her the last name Mackintosh, but Jones’ branded businesses. “Quincey Jones is expected to name a head of tion from original concept to production that is too many letters. I said, ‘How is a homegrown, internally developed the division soon. Greenfield is likely to after Macy’s approached Jones — al- about Mack?’ We became obsessed with brand that shows our ability from a cre- continue consulting on QMack’s evolu- ready strong partners in the Millennial Q….We thought of all American names ative and design perspective to create a tion. “Quincey is my girl,” she said. “She Rachel Rachel Roy brand — to develop and did research on Q names. I said, brand. It’s not just acquiring brands and will always be a part of my life on some an exclusive line. ‘Her name is Quincey.’ Then we short- talent, but now we’re leveraging that to level, but I feel very confident that my “We have been really public about the ened her to Q. Quincey Mack was too create new businesses and new brands involvement has been so focused and fact that we’re very interested in pursu- much about a person, QMack is about in the portfolio.” specific on bringing her to life that, with ing the Millennial customer, and mak- a spirit.” Dickson didn’t elaborate on further the team, she is going to have a good ing sure that we have the right product That sentiment is all-American via brands that could be in the pipeline. journey. She has a complete point of for her,” said Jeff Gennette, Macy’s chief Notting Hill and St. Germain, with “We’re going to be very methodical on view. I will give whatever guidance and merchandising officer. “We evaluated all shrunken blazers, soft bomber jackets, how we approach and execute product,” help they need.” the brands we had in our brand portfolio gathered dresses, prep school skater he offered. “[QMack is] a milestone brand Each store will be outfitted with ele- and we saw some gaps. One of the life- skirts and little cardigans. The line, for the company. We’re concentrating on ments of the QMack in-store concept, in- styles that we thought we had opportu- which will launch at 150 Macy’s doors making sure it’s as successful as we want cluding a green carpet, a table and a Q nity with was ‘the girl next door.’ and on macys.com Aug. 1, retails from it to be. That practice and experience wallpaper backdrop. “We talked about this girl, and they $29 to $299. Among the key pieces is an will help guide us for the future new “We are prepared to really develop immediately got it,” he added. “When “Admiral Spencer” jacket, $99, which brand-development process.” this customer and this line for years to you walk our Millennial floors, and spe- Greenfield styled with a floral sleeveless As for QMack’s marketing, Greenfield come,” said Macy’s Gennette, who de- cifically Impulse, you don’t see a lot of blouse, $69, and a cargo pant, $89; a tex- and her team developed a playful clined to disclose sales projections. “We [clothes] she would wear to work. We tured gray heather shirt, $79, is shown strategy. “We love the color green,” are starting out at 150 doors, and see it had a lot of casual and evening, a lot of with a black leather jacket, $299, and she said. “We feel that it’s something going to more doors.” going-out-at-night clothes, but what she blue camouflage pants, $79. relatable, and it’s got an interna- — MARC KARIMZADEH

ZD  DLQGG 30  6 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 ··

Kate Middleton is elegant, sensual, timeless. This is a dress she could wear forever, at any age, at any stage, during and after her pregnancy.

— DONNA KARAN L

LORRY NEWHOUSE ·· NICOLE MILLER

CHLOE Kate Expectations

NOW THAT KATE MIDDLETON’S BABY BUMP IS GROWING, CUSTOM MATERNITY CLOTHES MIGHT BE IN THE OFFING. HERE, DESIGNERS GIVE THEIR IDEAS FOR THE EXPECTANT DUCHESS.

NINA RICCI

LELA ROSE NANETTE LEPORE

DONNA KARAN

ZDD  LQGG 30  WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 7 WWD.COM

NICOLE MILLER

Kate Expectations ··

CHANEL

VERA WANG I think this dress is very much in her taste. NINA RICCI — KARL LAGERFELD, CHANEL L

“This evening “...A softly draped cocktail look is in fine dress from velvet textured our spring collection,·· with Dutch satin.… but in an exclusive The bottom made-to-order mallard and the back are green, a shade that I think embroidered with would be amazing on eyelet in a Chinese her coloring....It is flower shape.” youthful yet demure with a beautiful embellished — HUISHAN ZHANG L shoulder.” L — AMANDA WAKELEY ANDREW GN ALEXIS MABILLE HUISHAN ZHANG AMANDA WAKELEY

ZDD  LQGG 30  8 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 WWD.COM Maternity Clothes: Yea or Nay? said styles today reflect pregnancy as being a “normal” part of By SAMANTHA CONTI a woman’s life. “You can go on being yourself, which includes maintaining your fashion sense — whatever it is — while you

THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE, whose baby is due in mid- have your baby,” said Epstein. “It doesn’t mean striving to fit July, has worn exactly one maternity outfit in public since her into skinny jeans for six months, but maintaining your iden- pregnancy was announced in December. The look: a black-and- tity. As we all know, fashion is a way to express your identity white polka-dot dress from Topshop’s maternity line, which she and sense of self.” paired with a black Ralph Lauren jacket (nonmaternity) for a Epstein went on to compare and contrast the “I’m preg- visit to Warner Bros. Studios outside London. (She repeated nant” style of Princess Diana in the Eighties to Middleton’s the same combo this past weekend, to a private wedding in sleek and youthful look today. “Diana was going through that Oxfordshire, England.) Otherwise, Kate Middleton has been re- sort of cutesy stage, whereas Kate is obviously not hiding her cycling bits of her wardrobe and wearing nonmaternity designs pregnancy from the entire planet, but is definitely not trying from labels including Erdem, Mulberry and Tara Jarmon. to make [a big deal out of it].” Meanwhile, celebrities ranging from Jessica Alba and Marian Gloria, head buyer at Olive & Bette’s, which has Halle Berry to Beyoncé and Reese Witherspoon have taken a THE MANY NONMATERNITY four shops in Manhattan, said Middleton’s attitude is common similar tack, tweaking·· their wardrobes to accommodate their LOOKS OF KATE MIDDLETON (AND among the stores’ clientele. “What we are hearing is that a changing figures or buying the sort of clothes they would have lot of women do not want maternity clothes,” she said, add- opted for, pre-bump. ONE EXCEPTION). ing that pregnant shoppers at Olive & Bette’s will often veer Few department and specialty stores offer maternity cloth- toward maxidresses, Joie silk blouses and Splendid tanks. ing anymore, because even those women who are not living “They still want to look like themselves.” in palaces — or penthouses — are shopping their closets, Style-conscious Londoners take a similar approach. Jane adapting their existing wardrobes and choosing to spend their Monnington Boddy, senior director of trend forecasting at money on pieces that will last long after they have a baby. Dec. 16: Feb. 20: Stylesight.com, had her second child six months ago. She “We do not carry maternitywear anymore at Bloomingdale’s, In Alexander McQueen... …in Max Mara... bought maternity jeans and four nonmaternity dresses from but we have a young customer base — mothers who shop here Cos, H&M’s sister company. “The maternitywear out there regularly for maternity clothes,” said Stephanie Solomon, the was not fashion-aware, and was very frumpy and disappoint- store’s fashion director. “Emily Gerne, our manager of business ing. I think Asos [Maternity] had the best offer at that [mass] development, has never once bought maternitywear. She is on price point. I’m ·· demanding when it comes to fashion; maybe her second child, and is currently in her eighth month of preg- if you’re less demanding you have an easier time,” Boddy said. nancy,” she said. Aesthetics aside, there’s a host of other reasons why some IMAGES fashion lovers are shunning maternitywear, including new attitudes to exercise and fitness; cost; concerns about waste, and advances in fabric technology. Jeans are stretchier than

Some of our customers just IMAGES ASSOCIATION ever before, and versatile knitwear is already a staple in many women’s wardrobes. buy a size or two up, and Epstein points out that no one eats “for two” anymore:

ASSOCIATION “People are concerned, especially here in America, about WIRE/PRESS then alter the gown to fit in things that are going to make your kid more likely to have al- lergies or increase their risk. It’s a healthy diet. In the past, MAIL/PA doctors were worried about the stress of work, the stress of other areas of their body. WIRE/PRESS exercise and any extra energy they thought should go to the — GEORGINA CHAPMAN, MARCHESA baby. And now we know exercise is fine during pregnancy.” PARKER/DAILY HARRIS/PA According to Solomon, Gerne’s bump solutions include DAVID Diane von Furstenberg silk jersey wrap dresses (one size big- OLIVIA BY ger than usual), J Brand leggings (worn below the waist) and BY We have a dedicated garment 29 layers of Splendid T-shirts (they have a long torso). Not to 21 April 5: April 21:

…in Giorgio Armani... …in Mulberry... APRIL mention, Solomon added, “a great blazer...and borrowing your APRIL technologist working on the husband’s jeans and rolling up the hem.” Harrods, meanwhile, is catering to the fashionable pregnant IMAGES; [maternity] collection. The shopper in an alternative way. It has two maternitywear con- cessions — Blossom Mother & Child and 9 London by Emily Evans — on its fourth floor near the babywear and nursery de- ENTERTAINMENT; clothes have inside seams, and are partments. Marigay McKee, Harrods’ chief merchant, described ASSOCIATION Blossom Mother & Child’s offering as a “maternity·· edit,” i.e., a adjustable so you can wear them mix of versatile looks from nonmaternity brands, including M HUSSEIN/EMPICS Missoni, See by Chloé and Issa, alongside specialist maternity WIRE/PRESS after your pregnancy, too. labels such as Paulina and Attesa. The boutique also features a denim bar where designer labels such as J Brand, Seven For ANWAR — HAYLEY MOORE, ASOS All Mankind and AG Jeans can be customized with the trade- BY 26 mark Blossom belly band at the waist. Harrods’ other boutique, JACKSON/PA Cost — even when one has a healthy disposable income — APRIL

9 London, carries maternitywear exclusively, yet with creative CHRIS is also a consideration. Take it from fashion stylist Elizabeth solutions such as one-off vintage pieces and the “Bump in a BY Saltzman, who frequently works with Gwyneth Paltrow and Box” set by Jenny Rose, which contains a stretch capsule of 5 is a contributing editor at Vanity Fair. “Given the choice be- IMAGES;

four must-have items. McKee said both boutiques have seen APRIL tween buying a jacket from Tom Ford, Lanvin, Chanel — or double-digit growth compared with last year. insert designer label of your choice here — that you will have Georgina Chapman, designer and co-founder of Marchesa, for life, and spending a couple of thousand dollars on mater- had her second child in April. She said that, except for jeans, ASSOCIATION nity clothes that you will most likely want to burn when you she didn’t buy any maternity clothes for either of her pregnan- are done with them?” she asked. Women, Saltzman said, are cies. “I tried to wear as many pieces from my current wardrobe ENTERTAINMENT; clearly opting for the former. April 23: April 24: as possible. Of course, I did make some new purchases, but WIRE/PRESS However, a market does remain for maternitywear — es- they were all pieces that I could continue wearing post-preg- …in Erdem... …in Emilia Wickstead... pecially at the mass end — with brands rooted in fast fash- nancy,” said the designer. “While I was at the office, I opted for ion, such as Topshop and Asos, grabbing much·· of the atten- PETERS/EMPICS ballet flats and sneakers, but for evening events I finished my WHITBY/PA tion with their maternity collections. Hayley Moore, maternity P.

look off with a great heel. I think it’s important to stay true to DOUG buyer at Asos, said the value of the average shopping basket TIM your personal style, even while your body is changing.” BY for an Asos maternity customer is higher — 71.50 pounds, BY 19

Same goes for the London-based ready-to-wear and bespoke 24 or $110 — than that of the regular customer, who spends 57

designer Emilia Wickstead, whose clients include the Duchess FEB. pounds, or $88. of Cambridge and Britain’s First Lady Samantha Cameron. She APRIL Moore added that the first thing Asos’ maternity custom- gave birth to her first child in December and rather than ma- ers (who are mainly in their late 20s and early 30s) buy is IMAGES; ternity clothes, “used existing styles out of my own collection, IMAGES; jeans, although traditional officewear makes up half of the things I would have normally worn belted I wore loose.” firm’s overall maternity business. “We do woven dresses, not Wickstead noted that she’s no different from her custom- stretchy ones, that look smart in an office environment, as well ers. “I think modern women want quality, investment pieces ASSOCIATION as occasion wear,” Moore said. “We have a dedicated garment that they can wear again and again.” She added that her alter- ASSOCIATION technologist working on the collection. The clothes have in- ations for mothers-to-be are minimal — she’ll raise a waistline side seams, and are adjustable so you can wear them after

and level a hem to accommodate a growing belly, if needed. WIRE/PRESS your pregnancy, too.” “It’s pretty straightforward,” she said. WIRE/PRESS Social media, Moore noted, has given Asos Maternity Chapman takes a similar approach at Marchesa. “Some of a boost as well. Most recently, Rochelle Humes, from the our customers just buy a size or two up, and then alter the DAVIES/PA British-Irish girl group the Saturdays, was snapped walking gown to fit in other areas of their body,” she explained. “Other out of the Knightsbridge restaurant Zuma in a black Asos ma- DAVID THOMPSON/PA women like to have pieces more custom-made for their bod- BY April 26: April 29: ternity dress with a snazzy white collar. ies while pregnant, especially if it’s an evening gown for an …in a Topshop …and in a Tara DAVE Could moves like that of Humes, along with a little help BY important occasion and you want to look and feel your best.” PHOTO from the Duchess of Cambridge, make maternitywear fashion-

(maternity!) dress and Jamon coat and 23 Dr. Randi Hutter Epstein, author of “Get Me Out: A History 16 Ralph Lauren jacket... bespoke dress. able again? All it takes is baby steps. APRIL of Childbirth from the Garden of Eden to the Sperm Bank,” DEC. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LORELEI MARFIL WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 9 WWD.COM IPO Fever Gaining Speed Michele Scannavini {Continued from page one} raise $200 million, according to a Reuters Celebrity scents, report Monday. A spokeswoman for including those Kellwood declined comment. by Madonna and With the Dow Jones Industrial Lady Gaga, Average above the 15,000 level for a week are mainstays now, there’s hope in the markets that the of Coty’s economy is showing signs of sustained portfolio. improvement, not to mention a more vi- able place for parking one’s investment. Steve Davis, managing director at Intrepid Investment Bankers LLC, said, “Ultimately, the stock market reflects two things: confidence in the economy and where it is headed, and a place where they can put capital [to work].” Noting that other alternative invest- ments such as bonds and U.S. treasury securities aren’t as attractive yieldwise, Davis added, “Certainly, unemployment and housing are more positive today than they’ve been over the last five years. Part of that is reflective of why the stock mar- ket is doing well.” For now, all eyes are on Coty. If suc- cessful, it would be the largest IPO in the fashion and beauty space since Michael ships and a key understanding of the dy- firm, a powerhouse in fragrances, also in the beauty-care sector, said, “The di- Kors Holdings Ltd. raised $944 million in namics of the emerging markets, was seen has been moving on to greener pastures rect consequences of Coty going public its December 2011 offering in Hong Kong. as a move by Coty to bolster its bench such as color cosmetics, the red-hot nail- are that there will be more pressure on In the time between the initial filing strength as it prepared for the IPO. care and enamel category and skin care. Coty to grow post its IPO. Historically, of its prospectus last May and now, Coty Mortier has played a key part in Coty’s That’s a good move as one financial beauty firms grow through acquisitions.” has seen some changes. It has a new chief global management structure as senior observer said Wall Street analysts and in- Davis emphasized that anytime there’s executive officer in Michele Scannavini, vice president, commercial, since 2005. vestors will want to know how Coty plans a successful capital event such as an IPO, who took over from Bernd Beetz in July. He joined the company in July 2005, to grow the business and how the com- it draws attention to the market the firm Instead of going public last October as when Coty purchased Unilever Cosmetics pany can leverage its current product is in. In this case, a Coty IPO will provide expected, it is believed that the company International, where he worked as senior category portfolio and geographies over a clear set of valuation data points for the elected to hold off so Scannavini could vice president and chief financial officer the long term. They’ll also want to get a marketplace, which in turn brings addi- have some months under his belt as ceo of Unilever’s Calvin Klein Cosmetics divi- handle on Coty’s strategy and its take on tional sets of eyes — whether private equi- before facing Wall Street. sion. Mortier also played a strong role in future acquisitions, the observer said. ty or venture capital — to the beauty space, With Scannavini as ceo, Jean Mortier the crucial travel retail business. There are other implications for the which is a positive because it could bring was tapped to head up Coty Prestige, Prior to exploring an IPO, Coty, while beauty sector as well. additional capital into the marketplace. based in Paris. The appointment of under Beetz, had a failed $10.7 billion Intrepid’s Davis, who specializes in — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Mortier, who has strong retailer partner- bid for Avon Products Inc. The beauty mergers and acquisitions with expertise FROM MOLLY PRIOR Jos. A. Bank Expects Q1 Net Dip JOS. A. BANK CLOTHIERS INC. $201.4 million recorded during the pany had prepared investors on Monday prepared Wall Street first quarter of last year. well after the markets closed for its second consecutive quar- R. Neal Black, Jos. A. Bank’s on Friday, Jan. 25, as the three- terly earnings disappointment, president and chief executive of- month period drew to a close. sending its shares down more ficer, said the worst of the sales Shares Monday closed at than 7 percent. decline was in April. $42.90, down $3.31 or 7.2 per- The Hampstead, Md.-based The company previously cent. They had recovered some men’s specialty retailer fore- hadn’t provided guidance for of the territory lost following the cast earnings of between 27 and the quarter. fourth-quarter earnings warn- 30 cents a diluted share for the The first-quarter perfor- ing in January, which prompted three months ended May 4. That mance follows a letdown in a $6.99, or 15.1 percent, slide to comes against year-ago earnings fourth-quarter results, reported $39.28 on Jan. 28. per share of 53 cents and the in April, when holiday promo- Weather figured prominently Shares of Jos. A. Bank current analyst consensus esti- tions of seasonal sportswear in Bank’s problems in the more fell 7.2 percent Monday. mate of 46 cents. failed to excite consumers and recent quarter, just as it did at Despite double-digit improve- earnings fell 35.7 percent to the end of 2012. ment in its e-commerce and other $28.4 million, or $1.01 a diluted Black said gross margin was Like other retailers pre- viewed as a worst-case scenario, direct-to-consumer business, share, despite a 2.4 percent in- down “primarily due to higher in- paring to report first-quarter chilly temperatures lingered overall sales for the quarter de- crease in sales to $354.8 mil- ventory sourcing costs and lower results, Bank suffered dur- long enough for stores to be de- clined about 3 percent, the com- lion. Last year’s final quarter average selling prices due mostly ing the February-to-April pe- prived of meaningful markup on pany said, which would put them was somewhat better than the to increased percentage of sales of riod because of unseasonably cold-weather merchandise. at about $195.3 million versus the 95-cent EPS for which the com- winter clearance products.” cool weather. In what could be — ARNOLD J. KARR

An image from Donna Karan’s directors Alexander Liberman and fall Collection campaign. James Truman, below the editorial and MEMO PAD business staffs and Condé executives show, I thought, ‘Oh my officers, and to the left of editorial God, he did with clay and DECODING A MASTHEAD: Condé-nologists director Thomas J. Wallace. I do it with fabric.’” at 4 Times Square have been wondering — ERIK MAZA Karan added these when Anna Wintour’s name and new title, images aimed to capture artistic director, would start appearing ARTIST AFFAIR: For her fall Collection the “soul and spirit on the mastheads of the company’s campaign, Donna Karan ventured of Donna Karan. It’s magazines. It’s June for some, July for to a place she knows well — the important right now that others. Vanity Fair, Lucky and W are artist’s studio. The images, shot you stay true to your some of the titles that have listed her by Mikael Jansson, capture models brand and yet always in the June issues, while a handful — Catherine McNeil and Andres Velencoso take it to the next step. like Glamour, Allure and Vogue itself in a steamy, sensual tryst in an I think the response to — have left her out. A Condé Nast artist’s environment. The setting the collection by so many spokeswoman attributed the disparity made sense. After staging a show people was exactly that.” to each title’s production schedule but of her late husband Stephan Weiss’ The campaign will break said that by July everyone should be work recently, Karan became more in the August issue of caught up. For those interested in such acutely aware of her connection to art told WWD. “Stephan did my fragrance American Vogue and roll out to fashion things, Wintour’s name appears in the than ever before. “I never realized the bottles. He was my partner in business. and lifestyle publications in September same bottom bunk as former editorial similarity between how we thought,” she He was everything. When I put on the and October. — MARC KARIMZADEH

ZDDLQGG 30  10 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013

Tracey Frieze Frames Emin THE FRIEZE ART FAIR, which for a the graffiti was still tame. Aran seemed second straight year set up shop on New dismayed. “I was just talking to my Yo r k ’ s Randall’s Island, gave scenesters dealer, and we were saying that someone with even the slightest connection to should…,” the artist said when asked why the art world (fashion types seemingly no one had worked blue. About 15 minutes foremost) reason enough for a party over later, just before the call for dinner, Tracey the weekend. Burberry and W magazine Emin stepped up and sketched out a nude got in on the action on Thursday night with figure with a hand in its lap. a dinner at the Park Avenue Armory for On Friday night, Bergdorf Goodman Hans-Ulrich Obrist’s “do it: the compendium,” and Dries Van Noten celebrated Frieze and copublished by Independent Curators a wholly different sort of art instruction International and Distributed Art manual, “Collecting Art for Love, Money Publishers. The book compiles works in and More” by the art advisers Ethan Wagner Obrist’s long-running project that solicits and Thea Westreich Wagner, published by eye Tali Lennox instructional “scores” for on-the-spot art. Phaidon Press. Guests, who included in Burberry. Yoko Ono’s 1996 “Wish Piece,” which asks Christopher Wool, Elizabeth Peyton, Nan Goldin, guests to hang wishes from a tree, had Lawrence Weiner and Maria Cornejo, sipped been recreated for the party. Pharrell Williams cocktails on the third floor of Bergdorf ’s and girlfriend Helen Lasichanh were eagerly men’s store before settling into a long stringing theirs up. Tali Lennox declined to banquette table for dinner. “For me, I like say what hers was. Artist Uri Aran whose to see things; I like to meet people. That contribution to “do it” was the instruction for me is the most important thing,” Van to “doodle” and a page to do so, presided Noten said when asked about fashion’s at a blank white backdrop where staffers always increasing role on the periphery EICHNER were handing out Sharpies. of events like Frieze. “It’s not really that STEVE

The party had been on for a while and I follow everything of contemporary art. BY It has to speak to me and that’s the most important thing.” OTHERS At the fair itself, the tent under which about 180 galleries displayed their artists’ ALL work provided an expansive walkabout

through the contemporary art market; an ERICKSEN; asteroid belt’s worth of attendee street style to navigate, and the occasional KYLE notable collector to pass by. James Franco, BY Emilia Clarke, Valentino, Michael Stipe and John McEnroe were all among the crowd at Pharrell various points over the fair. ATTENDEES Williams — MATTHEW LYNCH Dries Van Noten (center) and guests. FRIEZE LOZOVSKY/BFANYC.COM; BENJAMIN BY EMIN SCHILDHORN/BFANYC.COM; JOE BY

Maria Frieze PHOTO Cornejo attendees. LENNOX

THE CLOCK TOWER inspired by indestructible Champagne flutes in hand, Helena FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE office building in Lower metals. For the party, the to take in the view but Christensen Manhattan is best known gallery’s two floors were were stopped by a pair of WWD.com/eye. as one of the locations of wrapped floor to ceiling sentinel waiters watching the New York City Criminal in silver aluminum foil so the door. Glasses aren’t Court. On Saturday night, that certain rooms looked allowed outside for liability Visionaire threw a party like very fashionable reasons. “It’s very lame,” there for its 63rd edition, toaster ovens. said Tiësto, who isn’t told which is produced on The theme carried over “no” often, especially at embossed metal plates to the clothing as many dance parties. “Well, you instead of paper stock. guests were dressed in know, it’s a precaution.” Admission required silver or sported metallic It was a rare sight seeing hardened fashionistas like motifs. Other guests the Dutch DJ out of his Helena Christensen, Hilary Rhoda included Leigh Lezark, the usual booth commanding and Richard Chai to go through model Heidi Mount and Allan hordes of dancing ravers. a metal detector and put up Kent, a young man who, He said he had just with casual pat-downs from with Angel Kent, also in relocated to Chelsea bemused security guards attendance, was once in after years of living in accustomed to rougher a Mexican boy band and Stockholm. “I just moved trade. The building’s 19th is now, as these careers to New York. I’d like to floor, which has a spiral tend to evolve, a fashion see some different scenes, staircase that leads to assistant at Visionaire. that’s how I came here,” he the namesake clock and The Kents were dressed said. Reluctant to part with balconies overlooking lower in midriff- and side-chest- their Champagne, he and Foiled Manhattan flanked by 12 baring golden Jeremy Stroble walked downstairs PRANDONI/BFANYC.COM stone eagles, has long been Scott ensembles. On the to the dance floor, where a Hilary Rhoda

the site of the alternative gallery’s second floor, the DJ presided over a much MATTEO

and Danielle Clocktower Gallery. superstar DJ Tiësto and his smaller crowd than those BY Plans Snyder The magazine’s new stylist, Christian Stroble, tried Tiësto is accustomed to. Tiësto

edition, titled “Forever,” is to sneak onto the balcony, — ERIK MAZA PHOTOS [ ULJKW

WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Line, the Dior Garden, the Dior Ateliers, the 18th Century, From FOR MORE Pink to Red and the Dior Ball. SCOOPS, SEE FASHION SCOOPS In a short film running at the exhibit covering Demarchelier’s WWD.com. approach to images of couture, PVH PAYDAY: Performance-related will select the winners. A party at the the photographer summed it up by stock and option awards boosted the Chopard Lounge on the top floor of saying, “I like to show its modernity.” The compensation of PVH Corp. chief the Martinez hotel, featuring a live exhibit also features two couture pieces executive officer Emanuel Chirico performance by Solange Knowles, will encased in glass, a Bar ensemble from more than 45 percent last year, to cap off the ceremony on Thursday. Christian Dior’s first couture show and $12.4 million, while the cash portion Previous winners of the award, an interpretation of that early signature of his pay package was virtually now in its 13th edition, include Marion look created by Raf Simons for his couture unchanged at $5.2 million. Chirico’s Cotillard, Jonathan Rhys-Meyers and Diane debut at Dior. “It’s to die for,” gushed event base salary rose 5.3 percent to $1.3 Kruger. Chopard also makes the Palme host Elizabeth Segerstrom about Simons’ million, and his cash bonus was off d’Or award bestowed on the winning red coatdress. As for the rest of the John C. Reilly 2.8 percent to $3.6 million while film at Cannes. exhibit, she continued, “The quality of the and Diane “other” compensation rose 1.8 percent For the 66th edition of the festival, photographs is incredible. They make you Keaton

to $192,000. But his stock awards Caroline Scheufele, copresident and feel so elegant.” The exhibit made stops KEENAN STEFANIE PHOTO BY essentially doubled, to $4 million artistic director of the Geneva-based in Shanghai, Beijing and Moscow before from $2 million, and he received jewelry and watch firm, has designed landing at South Coast Plaza, where it will during Art Basel and two were donated for $1.9 million in option awards be housed in the shopping center’s Jewel charity auctions.) versus none in 2011. Because of Court through May 28. — RACHEL BROWN None of the hosts knew that Rolston vesting schedules and fluctuating had been working on the project for the stock prices, Chirico, who’s TALKING HEADS: Matthew Rolston is the last four years. Keaton was given the also chairman of PVH, won’t latest celebrity photographer to cross book for her birthday by makeup artist necessarily receive the over into fine art, much to the delight of Collier Strong, a mutual friend of hers and awards, but, as required Hollywood’s art insiders. On Friday, Rolston’s. The usually press-shy actress by the Securities and Diane Keaton, Kay Saatchi and Joel Chen and art writer was effusive about the work, Exchange Commission, they hosted a hometown book party for saying, “I mean, I was shocked. They are were included at grant date the L.A. native and his first fine art tome, astonishing. I knew Matthew, but not well, fair market value in the company’s “Talking Heads: The Vent Haven Portraits.” and I called him up and said, ‘I have to see definite proxy, filed Monday. The book of portraits of ventriloquist more.’” Added Rolston: “She just called The second-highest pay among dummies and memorabilia from the Vent my cell. I picked up the phone, and she PVH executives was reported for Fred Chopard diamond necklace from the Haven museum debuted during Art Basel was like, ‘Hi, it’s Diane Keaton.’ Oh, Diane Gehring, ceo of Tommy Hilfiger and 2013 Red Carpet Collection. Miami, but Friday’s event marked the Keaton. No big deal.” PVH International, who earned $6 opening of a three-week pop-up exhibition Art collector and former curator million, down 11.1 percent from 2011. 66 one-of-a-kind creations to be at JF Chen gallery in Hollywood. “I’ve Saatchi, who also met Rolston through — ARNOLD J. KARR worn by celebrities. Inspired by the known Matthew about 25 years and had no friends shortly after moving to Los Angeles theme of love, they feature gems in idea he was doing this project, but when from London two years ago, said, “I see a ILINCIC JUST DREAMY: Having helped heart cuts and floral motifs, though I saw the book and the work at his studio, lot of art and go a long time without seeing design her own London home, diamonds remain the central focus. I jumped to host a signing and preview,” anything that does something for me, but Roksanda Ilincic is now using her Chopard is also cohosting a photo said Chen. “So far, only Diane Keaton and with these I had no hesitation. And it’s not collegiate architecture studies to exhibition, “In Love With Cinema,” I own it.” (Rolston gifted Chen and Keaton about liking Matthew as a friend, because modernize Barbie’s new Dreamhouse. featuring the most beautiful onscreen with the five-foot-by-five-foot prints, but a I like a lot of artists as friends but I don’t Before she attended Central Saint kisses. The images will be displayed couple of collectors also snapped them up always love their work.” — MARCY MEDINA Martins, the Serbian-born designer at the Chopard Lounge and the patio honed up on architecture at Belgrade space of pay-television channel Canal University. She and Barbie aren’t Plus near the Palais des Festivals. complete strangers. The designer — JOELLE DIDERICH reimagined the statuesque Mattel doll’s style by creating a more cutting- PRIZE FIGHT: A purchase order from edge look for her 50th anniversary. Canadian department store Hudson’s This time around, Ilincic teamed Bay and two seasons of mentoring by up with Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio to Italian fashion honcho Renzo Rosso create a virtual Dreamhouse that await the winner of the 24th Andam will make its debut in the months Fashion Award — along with the ahead. There is a twist, though: main cash prize of 250,000 euros, or The sun-kissed blonde is looking to $324,645 at current exchange. unload the three-floor, 8,500-square- The judges have named seven SMALL SPACE foot beachfront Malibu home she finalists — Olympia Le-Tan, Yang Li, Pedro has “lived” in since 1971 for $25 Lourenço, Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, Iris million. Through a partnership with van Herpen and Alexandre Mattiussi of the Trulia, Mattel created this fictitious, men’s label Ami — and are scheduled publicity-seeking listing to plug to meet on July 4 to select a winner. Barbie’s worldwide search to find a Past Andam winners include Giles new home. Ilincic’s creation will no Deacon, Gareth Pugh and, most recently, doubt be partial to pink. Julien David. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG In addition, there are three finalists vying for the First Collections CHECK PLEASE: In the wake of Award, valued at 75,000 euros, or Mother’s Day, Carolee will mark its $97,395. They are Aganovich, Calla 20th year of partnership with the Haynes and Christine Phung. That prize Breast Cancer Research Foundation bundle also includes exposure at with a series of initiatives. The Galeries Lafayette’s Paris flagship. brand will bestow $125,000 to the Andam’s sponsors include Fashion foundation — its largest-ever annual GPS, Hudson’s Bay Company, donation — funded largely by sales Longchamp, LVMH Moët Hennessy BIG from the fashion jewelry brand’s Louis Vuitton, Galeries Lafayette, 40th-anniversary Legacy Collection. the Pierre-Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Acting chairman Leonard Lauder, whose Foundation, Rosso’s group OTB, late wife Evelyn established the Swarovski, Thecorner.com and Yves foundation in 1993, will accept the Saint Laurent. check on May 14 at The Estée Lauder Judges include Sarah Andelman, BUSINESS Cos. Inc. headquarters in New York. purchasing manager and creative Additionally, in honor of Evelyn, the director of Colette; Angelica Cheung, jewelry brand will unveil a multirow editor in chief of Vogue China, and pearl torsade “Evelyn” necklace from Pamela Golbin, head curator at Les Arts its fall Mirror Image collection, with Décoratifs. — MILES SOCHA WWD Marketplace is the premier destination $5 from the sale of each piece of the collection benefitting the BCRF. ON SHOW: South Coast Plaza for the industry’s classified and career listings. — KRISTI GARCED celebrated the arrival of the “Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier” exhibit THE KING’S SPEECH: Chopard has Friday evening with a cocktail enlisted Oscar winner Colin Firth as reception at the Dior store benefiting patron of its annual Chopard Trophy the Orange County Museum of Art. 800.423.3314 award, which will be handed to Between shopping and sipping two promising young talents on the glasses of Champagne, guests toured sidelines of the Cannes Film Festival. the exhibit of some 45 photographs Producer Harvey Weinstein, actress that capture Dior Couture pieces WWD.COM/MARKETPLACE Olivia Munn and director Taylor Hackford from 1947 to the present and are are among members of the jury that separated into six themes: the Dior

ZDDLQGG 30  12 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 WWD.COM Bell’s Designs Off to Brisk Start

“It’s doing really well,” said which in addition to macys. By LISA LOCKWOOD a spokeswoman for Express, com, is also available in 50 which is carrying the collec- Macy’s stores.” NEW YORK — Hunter Bell won tion in 15 stores, as well as on Bell dropped by Macy’s NBC’s “Fashion Star” Friday express.com. “Our buyer, Erika Herald Square on Sunday to night — and sales of her win- [DeSalvatore] really pressed chat with customers about the ning designs at leading retailers Hunter to go for her personal reality competition and the got off to a brisk start as a result. style, which she felt reflected clothing she designed. As the winning designer, Bell the Express style.” She said that Saks, which sent out an e-mail received $3 million worth of or- Bell’s look is “very put together blast about Bell’s win early ders from Saks Fifth Avenue, and has a really sexy aesthetic.” Saturday morning, is offering Macy’s and Express. Bell also Express’s offering includes a a variety of Hunter Bell looks designed some additional piec- moto vest for $59.90 and a black on saks.com, such as a white es that are being featured at moto dress for $69.90. sheath dress for $206, a white Macy’s and saks.com. Macy’s took out a full-page maxidress for $280, red pala- ad in Sunday’s New York Times zzo pants for $220 and a red Hunter Bell at recognizing Bell’s victory and in- blouse for $179. saks.com. troducing the collection. Macys. Bell, 32, still was dealing com features such looks as a with the excitement of her lace peplum top and lace pen- win on Monday. “It’s quite her favorite part on to study at Parsons The New cil skirt, selling for $69 and $79, a feeling,” said the de- of being on the School for Design. respectively; a mesh top and signer, who was reached show was being Jessica Simpson, Nicole printed shorts for $59 and $49, at her New York showroom. able to grow as Richie and John Varvatos served respectively, and a lace peplum “I’ve been holding it in since a designer and as celebrity mentors on the top and lace cigarette pants for November [when the finale learn about herself. show. In addition to DeSalvatore $69 and $79, respectively. was taped]. I just hope and She said she tried at Express, the buyers were Holly Thomas, vice presi- pray that this opens doors to stay consistent Caprice Willard for Macy’s and dent, national media rela- for stores to recognize me. week after week so Terron Schaefer for Saks. tions and cause marketing at Hopefully they will give her look would be Plans are for Bell’s collec- Macy’s, said, “The customer me a second look, and recognizable. “I’m a tion, Hunter Dixon by Hunter reception has been very posi- the consumer will rec- contemporary wom- Bell, to get a name change to tive. Throughout season two ognize me as a designer en’s designer who ap- Hunter Bell next spring. Her IANNACCONE of ‘Fashion Star,’ many of our who they can look up to preciates femininity line is carried in 100 bou- Macy’s purchases have sold and support by buying and edgy details,” said tiques nationwide, including THOMAS Hunter out online in a matter of hours. the clothes.” Bell, who graduated Anthropologie. The company BY Bell Likewise, we are seeing strong Bell, a native of A Hunter Bell look from University of produces 100 percent of its col- interest in Hunter’s collection, Florence, S.C., said Alabama and went lection in New York City.

PHOTO from Express.

sumer base,” Zouhairi said, citing the glass and precious Lalique Looks to the Air gemstone jewelry that René Lalique began designing Pieces from Soulmates range in price in the 1880s. Currently the By RACHEL STRUGATZ from $1,200 to $75,600, but the majority business is almost evenly of the product retails from about $8,700 split among Europe (25 per- NEW YORK — Lalique will today unveil to $42,000, according to Zouhairi. A cent) and the brand’s native its second fine jewelry collection and re- delicate white gold and diamond Eros’ France, with the U.S. and Asia lease a limited-edition clock in partner- Arrow ring is the entry point at $1,200, (the fastest-growing market) at ship with Parmigiani Fleurier. while a rose gold Egyptian Serpent ring 20 percent each. “The story is the continuation of the with yellow sapphires, diamonds, yellow He revealed that locations are being first one, but it’s totally different because gold and eight lacquer serpents encir- scouted in Paris for a stand-alone fine Items from last year was Lalique’s rebirth [of fine cling the center stone, a 4.95-carat bril- jewelry boutique slated to open in late Lalique. jewelry]. This year it’s our flight with liant-cut mandarin garnet, costs $75,000. 2013 or early next year. the element air. This is a love story,” the A butterfly brooch-pendant necklace Also on display today will be pieces brand’s jewelry head designer, Quentin in rose gold with 62 pink sapphires, 23 from the “Clock 15 Days” col- Obadia, said, seated in the company’s new brilliant-cut diamonds, a triangle-cut or- lection — where Interiors showroom on Fifth Avenue in the ange sapphire and a detachable pompom only 15 clocks Flatiron District here. He explained that is $50,400, and a white gold ring paved were produced the inspiration for the nearly 100-piece with 64 blue sapphires, 64 aquamarines, in clear, blue Soulmates collection came from the story eight brilliant-cut diamonds and a sap- and red crystal. of Ethos and the Greek goddess Psyche, phire central stone is $11,760. These will cost who was half woman and half butterfly. In addition to the brand’s freestand- $98,000 each, and Lalique last spring launched the first ing flagships in New York, London, Paris, a one-of-a-kind collection in a four-part series based Beverly Hills, Russia and Dubai, the line black crystal ver- on Nature’s four elements: fire, earth, will be carried at Harrods in London in sion will retail for air and water. The initial offerings, June, at Lane Crawford in September and $196,000. Because “The Sacred Fire Odyssey,” were based in select Neiman Marcus doors in the U.S. of the handiwork in-

on fire. Maz Zouhairi, president and for the first time. volved in creating each AQUINO chief executive officer of Lalique North “This is a lifestyle brand, and the pillar clock, introduced by JOHN

America, revealed that collections based of jewelry is a significant part because of Parmigiani Fleurier in BY on “earth” and “water” will come out in the fact that it appeals to a different range 2012, only eight to 10 can 2014 and 2015, respectively. of customers, [as well as] a younger con- be made each year. PHOTOS

sons in style from a man of style.” Lavinia Biagiotti, Alberto Della Vite had the audi- Aspesi, Valentino’s chief execu- Remembering Ottavio Missoni ence giggling as he recounted tive officer Stefano Sassi, Mario a conversation last June with Boselli, Beppe Modenese, trickled through the words of the for the designer, entrepreneur, Missoni, who said: “‘If God ex- Carla and Franca Sozzani, By LUISA ZARGANI minister, Don Giulio Della Vite; prisoner of war and former ath- ists, he is an artist; actually he Maria Luisa Trussardi, the reminiscences of his daugh- lete who died last week at age 92. is a designer. But God is not how Joyce Ma, Joan and Caroline GALLARATE, Italy — Rarely ter Angela and his granddaugh- “He challenged God by you priests tell us, because ei- Burstein, and luxury consul- could a funeral be more color- ter Margherita, among others, kneading colors, and he once ther we turned out badly or he tant Armando Branchini. ful than Ottavio Missoni’s, as his and in music that wafted through asked me what kind of a de- is not that good at drawing.’” “I was very proud as a child family, friends, several members the 19th century frescoed vaults. signer God would be, ” said Missoni’s son Vittorio, who to have him as a father, but as of the fashion industry, employ- Ludwig Van Beethoven’s “Ode Della Vite of Missoni, whom he went missing in January, was an adolescent not as much, as I ees and the city’s well-wishers to Joy” — the European an- praised for his vision and tal- also referenced during the cer- perceived him as absent,” said filled Gallarate’s Basilica and them and a soundtrack of the ent, describing him as taking emony. “At times in life, soft Angela Missoni. “But then, with its facing square on Monday, Olympics — and Giuseppe “dreams’ designs to make them threads can become intricate my brothers, we realized that he wearing multihued zigzagged, Verdi’s “Va, Pensiero” chorus into clothes.” knots,” said the priest. was there for us and that he had twirly and patterned scarves, on the Jews in exile filled the Della Vite continued: Among those assembled in enlightening words for us: He lightweight knits and shirts. church — Missoni’s own exile “Fashion passes but style re- the Basilica were Brunello was a free man and he left us Missoni’s strong personality from Dalmatia a painful memory mains. We are here to take les- Cucinelli, Roberta Armani, free, he never judged us.” WWDINPERSONSECTION II

Aerin’s World Growing up in her family’s storied cosmetics empire paved the way for Aerin Lauder to build her own lifestyle brand. Inside, she explains the origins and inspirations of her expanding business as it gathers momentum.

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO

2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013 SECTION II ·· WWD.COM

WWD IN PERSON Building on a Family’s Legacy Aerin Lauder takes a cue from her grandmother Estée’s storied life. By Pete Born

FOLLOWING IN the footsteps of her images and sometimes there wasn’t larger-than-life grandmother, Aerin even product in the ads. One of her Lauder has become a brand. most famous ads was a woman standing That has become obvious in the last by a piano in a beautiful living room nine months as the 43-year-old grand- Beauty was always for Private Collection. daughter of Estée Lauder crisscrossed We’re creating these lifestyle images North America with side trips to the my heritage, but my for a new generation. If you go to the U.K. to make a half-dozen in-store Web site, it’s the tabletop, it’s a birth- appearances and press the flesh at passion really was day cake with glasses, it’s things on beauty adviser breakfasts. All of this your vanity. There is something really was driven by a need to support and interesting about lifestyle. People of all promote the first installments of what lifestyle and home ages are drawn to that. will be a sprawling array of merchan- dise, comprising a lifestyle brand em- and accessories. WWD: Was there a moment where all blazoned with the name Aerin, with this crystallized — when you said to different product categories licensed — AERIN LAUDER yourself, Enough with the lipsticks, I’m to different companies, ranging from going to pursue my real passion? cosmetics to jewelry to shoes to lamps, A.L.: After being creative director for furniture and rugs. many years at Estée Lauder, I felt I was The Aerin Beauty collection and watching consumers, watching their the home fragrance candles were the buying trends, understanding what they first categories launched last fall, fol- were looking for and how women shop lowed by the home object collection multicategory. There was such a success during the holidays. Footwear, fashion with all these different Web sites where jewelry and sunglasses were unveiled you could shop cross-category that was this spring. This fall the brand will be the brand, its accessibility and ease of WWD: You’ve spent your life in basically fascinating. When I focus-grouped the expanded to include furniture, inte- use or, as she put it, “weekend aspect.” the narrow confines of prestige beauty. concept in the U.S. and China, I was rior lighting, fabrics, trimmings and Wyatt said the lipsticks are popular What gave you the idea to launch such excited and blown away by the results. area rugs, tabletop wear and home and the customers “love, love, love” the a multifaceted brand? We saw 82 percent and higher purchase and decorative accessories. For good hand cream. Aerin Lauder: Beauty was always my heri- intent across all three categories. China measure, Lauder will also come out in “The fresh and modern approach tage, but my passion really was lifestyle was 98 percent. People really loved the the fall with a book, “Beauty at Home,” to makeup” is the way the brand was and home and accessories. When I go idea of buying home elements, accesso- published by the Potter Style division described by Deborah Walters, senior back to the editorial that I’ve done, a lot ries and beauty. of Random House. vice president and general merchandise of it was about my homes·· and about liv- It was very credible because there Lauder and her Aerin LLC organi- manager for cosmetics, fragrances and ing and style and entertaining and the was a person behind it, a story, authen- zation declined to break out financial intimates at Saks Fifth Avenue. She gave five items I want for fall accessorywise. ticity. I’m 43 years old, I have two young figures, but industry sources speculate Lauder high marks for taking a fresh and So really, it completes that next chapter boys, I live a busy life, I have a career. that the entire array of product cat- classic approach. “I’m pleased with the in the sense that I love beauty and the I do like to entertain and design my egories could generate more than $100 way it is performing,” Walters said. idea of effortless, edited beauty. There homes and at the same time incorpo- million combined in retail sales in the Marigay McKee, chief merchant at is something really modern, really femi- rate the other elements into it. When third year after the inception of the Harrods in London, said, “When cos- nine, really appealing about what we’re I went to High Point and presented brand. The breadth of the collection metics are designed by the granddaugh- is startling, since it spans continents ter of a world-renowned beauty pow- of merchandising experience from the erhouse, you know they’re going to be Assorted Aerin-branded items. classic beauty business model with up- something special; and Aerin Lauder’s scale specialty stores to home objects much-anticipated collection lives up to being marketed to interior decorators. the highest of expectations. A pick-me- The idea seems to be to decorate up in a palette, the new Aerin Holiday the consumer from head to toe and Style Collection is a carefully edited her house from floor to ceiling. It all line of soft pastel must-haves in pretty adds up to roughly 300 stockkeeping shades to create fresh, glowing looks units for fall. Many of the merchandise that exude the signature elegant, under- ideas have sprung from Lauder’s life: stated beauty that has so quickly become her lifestyle, her houses (in New York, the brand’s synonymous style. Wainscott in the Hamptons and Aspen, At Bergdorf Goodman, sales of the Colo.) and her travels. That includes Aerin Beauty collection have exceed- a golden deer antler decorative ob- ed expectations after Lauder ject that sprang from made an in-store appear- her memories of liv- ance and talked to custom- ing in Vienna during ers about her vision for the 11th grade, when her brand. According to Pat father, Ronald, was Saxby, vice president and named U.S. ambassa- divisional merchandise man- dor to Austria. Despite ager for cosmetics and fra- how it looked at the time, grances, “Our customers find

his daughter now admits it the line appealing due to its JOHN AQUINO AND COMPOSED PRODUCT PHOTOS BY PORTRAIT was a great experience. simplicity. Aerin created modern Whatever the inspiration, products for women on the go, doing in the world of beauty, but then all of our furniture, lighting and fab- her ideas seem to have struck with everything easy to taking that concept and translating it to rics, the response was extraordinary a chord with the buying wear and apply.” the other categories. because there is that element of ar- public, at least judg- Wyatt at Neiman’s Even though beauty was my day job, tistic sensibility and global influence. ing from early returns. said Lauder’s in-store traveling, art, culture, entertaining, I’ve lived in Europe, I have traveled “It has done extreme- appearance and mer- decorating was very much my life. And quite a bit. Estée was such a wonder- ly well,” said Hazel chandise debut has if you think about what I did at Estée ful icon because she lived in London a Wyatt, vice president drawn a mixed audience Lauder, it was designing a counter, few months of the year, and the south of and divisional merchan- of different ages, includ- picking fabrics, picking the lighting. France, and she really encouraged her dise manager of cosmetics and ing a lot of younger, stylishly When we would go to shoots, I would family to live that way as well. fragrances at Neiman Marcus. dressed women in their 20s and pick all the furniture, the clothing, the Of course, I went kicking and Speaking of the Aerin beauty 30s. Wyatt noted how Lauder environment, the location. screaming in 11th grade to Vienna, but and home candle collection, has immersed herself in the now I look back and it was a wonderful she observed, “Customers product development. “It’s a WWD: In your role at Lauder, you became experience. We traveled every week- love the products, they love beautiful brand,” she said. “She an expert on the history of advertising end together as a family. We experi- the packaging and love the has great style. She is creative the brand, which in the Seventies and enced a completely different life and lifestyle.” She added that A brass flower pot and talented.” Eighties was extremely aspirational. I’m thankful for that because it really they also love the makeup from the Home Here is an in-depth interview A.L.: And lifestyle. Estée was one of the opened up my eyes in a different way. palette, the simplicity of Objet collection. with the creator of the brand: first to create these wonderful lifestyle {Continued on page 4}

© 2013 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2013

Congratulations, Aerin. 4 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD IN PERSON {Continued from page 2} nesswoman. This is not a vanity busi- cused. It’s that element of muted gold WWD: Was there some kind of event or ness, not a hobby. for your home, burled wood, amazing Lauder’s Licensees: anniversary or birthday that made the A.L.: No, this is a real business. I do vases, objects, juxtaposed with color light go on? have a very strong business sense. I that’s kind of urban and understated Interpreting a Vision A.L.: Probably my 40th birthday. My come from a very business-oriented mixed with the shoes and the jewelry AERIN LAUDER attributes children were getting older and my life family and I understand the impor- and it all becomes one story. much of her success in putting was changing a little bit. I had been at tance of the cost of goods and sampling together her new brand to the Estée Lauder for many years and I had and the return on your investment. We WWD: What kind of furniture are you doing? high caliber of her licensees, always had this side passion for home. make decisions all day long based on A.L.: We’re doing a wide array — sofas, who produce and distribute the what we should and shouldn’t do. chairs, coffee tables, bookshelves, desks. merchandise. The feeling ap- WWD: You’re continuing the entrepre- Furniture is interesting, because it’s very pears to be mutual, judging from neurial history of the family. WWD: Let’s talk about the categories much to the trade and showrooms, and a cross section of comments. A.L.: Yes. It’s wonderful because we’re you’ve launched so far, starting with then certain stores, more internationally. “She has created a vision for doing it as licensing. That’s a perfect sce- beauty. How did the launch go? new modern sensibility,” said Jane nario, because something I’ve learned A.L.: It went very, very well. We launched WWD: What is the distribution strategy? Hertzmark Hudis, global brand from my uncle [Leonard A. Lauder] is beauty last August with an interesting A.L.: The beauty is distributed in spe- president for Estée Lauder. She finding the right partners with the right concept based on the idea of edited, ef- cialty stores and the accessories are praised Lauder for “possessing an product and the right management. Our fortless beauty. People loved the idea of also in that world. The shoes are in Saks eye for impeccable quality and ex- partners are extraordinary. beauty made a bit more simple, of not and Nordstrom and home objects are traordinary taste.” Lauder is the so much choice but the right choice. We in specialty stores like Neiman Marcus, licensee of the beauty line, which WWD: How did you pick the categories? had [Beauty] Essentials, which are still Bergdorf’s and Saks. The furniture and was launched last fall along with A.L.: We wanted to go into home — light- in the lineup today, and four [seasonal] lighting is a different business model. It the home fragrance candles from ing, fabric, furniture. From there, we collections a year, either based on a goes more to the trade and is more inter- Nest Fragrances. started meeting different partners, lifestyle trend or a fashion trend. Right national. The beauty and accessories are Hudis said the brand, which is understanding the distribution, the now, we’re in beach mode so it’s all sea- in about 100 stores in the U.S., U.K. and distributed in about 100 specialty quality, their management. I have an shell, beach-inspired color. What’s excit- Canada. The furniture and lighting is not store doors, is attracting a young- extraordinary team here who’ve had a ing is that the beach-inspired color also being sold until the fall and that’s going to er consumer and is running ahead tremendous amount of experience in corresponds with the Amalfi Coast tur- be in stores internationally and domesti- of plan. those categories. And accessories, in quoise necklace as well as the sunglass- cally. We’re still finalizing those doors. Laura Slatkin, chief executive of- the sense of jewelry and shoes and sun- es. The makeup bag is in a yellow and ficer of Nest, said Lauder was “inti- glasses, because they are the finishing white ikat so it becomes a very cohesive WWD: Two sides of yourself. mately involved” in product design, touches of a look, similar to a lipstick. beach shell-inspired story, even down A.L.: It is two sides, but it’s two com- down to packaging decor and notes It’s the necklace, it’s the lipstick, it’s to the point that the objects we’re sell- plete sides because the Estée Lauder of the fragrance. She noted that the the shoe. It’s that idea of head to toe. ing are gold-dipped shells. The beauty consumer is very much this consumer candle collection is centered around corresponds to the home which corre- as well. It’s about style and luxury and Lauder’s “deep affection for tra- WWD: Everybody wants to know when sponds to the accessories. edit and quality and storytelling. ditional white florals and unusual ready-to-wear is coming. woody fragrances.” Of the 75 brands A.L.: Not for a long time. We have WWD: Who runs the [Aerin] brand the firm handles, outside of the Nest a lot going on. I really do love fo- Aerin having tea with at Lauder? line, the Aerin collection is selling cusing on the accessories and the grandmother Estée A.L.: Jane [Hertzmark Hudis] and the best, said Slatkin. home. The home idea is kind of in- at The Plaza hotel’s Francesca [DiMotta], who is head The Aerin home object collec- teresting. It is like accessories for Palm Court. of the beauty and marketing and tion, produced in-house, arrived your home. It’s those beautiful ob- reports to Jane. during the holidays. Footwear, pro- jects, picture frames, gold-dipped duced by Jimlar; fashion jewelry, birds, sea urchins. WWD: How does it work? done by Erickson Beamon, and A.L.: I am very involved with ev- sunglasses, by Oliver Peoples, were WWD: How do the partnerships erything. I just was e-mailing Jane launched this spring. work? Who does the designing and two days ago, we were all in L.A. Coming in the fall are furni- the creating? for an Estée Lauder meeting. She ture from E.J. Victor, interior A.L.: I do the designing and creat- took a red-eye home, I took a late lighting from Visual Comfort, ing with someone from their team. flight home and the next day I was fabrics, trimmings and area rugs We conceptualize based on trend, e-mailing her about a tester unit for from Lee Jofa and tabletop and color trend, lifestyle trend, ideas. It something that we were doing. I am home and decorative accessories can be inspired by anything from a very, very involved with everything. from Lenox Corp. While the fall piece of art to a picnic basket. We merchandise appears not to have have a wonderful team of design- WWD: You launched the candles for been finalized yet, Cary Kravet, ers on our side and their side and holiday, and they’ve already won a president of Kravet Inc., which working together. FiFi Award. Did they sell well? owns Lee Jofa, said in an e-mail A.L.: They did. They’re all flower- that Lauder brought a “thorough- WWD: This is pretty brave, to go off and spice-inspired, and we used ly feminine approach to design, and start your own company. Do Lee Jofa fabric. We did it with based on classic principles of bal- you ever worry? Nest, who has been a wonderful ance and simplicity — an effort- A.L.: I do. Of course, I worry. But it’s ex- WWD: What were the bestsellers? partner. The packaging is beautiful. It’s less style that makes everything citing. I was ready for another adven- A.L.: The nude lipsticks. People love the a wonderful presentation. It’s the ulti- feel modern and unpretentious. ture and this has always been a dream. nude lipstick and the lip conditioner, and mate hostess gift or birthday gift. I love That’s her signature.” It’s kind of a dream come true. they also love the hand-and-body cream. the glass because it’s so simple, mod- — PETE BORN It’s this interesting modern, feminine ern and feminine. Even when you’re WWD: You’re going off on your own and ba- take on beauty. There’s a lot of modern finished with them, you can use them sically doing what your grandmother did. out there and there’s a lot of feminine, for flowers or pencils. They’re really WWD: Switching gears to the home ob- A.L.: I am basically doing what she did. but the combination of modern and femi- pretty, you want to keep them. jects category — when did that launch? She had a dream, she followed it, she nine makes it unique and very appealing A.L.: The Objet Collection we did for holi- thought outside the box. This is a new to a certain type of consumer. WWD: Are you thinking about expand- day. We did very well with that, which was way of distributing product, the idea of ing the line or are you going to do the exciting. It was a focus on gold and gold going across categories and going into a WWD: You’re going to do additions each same with this and come out with sea- elements for the home. For spring, our woman’s vanity or bookshelf and all the season across the categories? sonal candles? color story is all about a garden in bloom. elements that make her smile. A.L.: Correct. So the woman who is A.L.: We’re going to do a holiday candle for shopping in our concept store in next year, changing the packaging. I’ve WWD: How is the pricing structure for WWD: Do you feel the pressure of hav- Southampton, for example, can buy been trained by Estée Lauder and I have a the brand overall? ing to prove something? the beach cream, the nude lip gloss, holiday wrap coming out for Aerin Beauty A.L.: In terms of beauty, it’s a little higher A.L.: It’s not easy. The day is completely the shell clutch, the makeup bag that and Aerin the brand and then the candle than Estée Lauder but not as high as full. It’s your name on it, it has to be the looks supersummery and beautiful, a then will be incorporated into that. Tom Ford. Some of the home is a little bit best it can possibly be. I have a tremen- shell object maybe to give to a friend higher, but we have a variety. Everything dous amount of pressure, but I do well as a hostess gift and a really pretty gold WWD: Do you think you might add an- we do has different price points, so we under pressure. I love what I do. I love bracelet that can be worn day or night. other fragrance? have these wonderful wine stoppers that coming to the office every day, I love It all becomes very much a cohesive A.L.: You’ll see. We are going to add to are $75 and a wonderful entry level into the team that I’ve put together, I love lifestyle point of view. our Essentials Collection. We’re going the world of home. And then a bowl that the product. I keep e-mailing [jewelry For fall, we’re doing New York City to do a lipstick and tinted moisturizer. is a couple thousand dollars. We have producer] Erickson Beamon — I want color. We’re doing uptown, downtown. something for everyone. those gold bangles desperately. There’s The shades are named after streets or WWD: Sort of ease into it. something really exciting about that. I museums or buildings. So once again it A.L.: Yes. What’s extraordinary is that WWD: In looking through the various lev- love that friends are calling me saying becomes this cohesive story. the challenge that we had was how do els of inspiration and aspiration, are we they purchased the shoes or they just you grow the Estée Lauder business and talking about the same customer? saw something in a magazine. WWD: Across all the categories it’s the same how do you bring a new consumer in. A.L.: I think it is the same customer, be- idea, it’s things you need for that season? The numbers show that at the counters cause the way women shop today is high WWD: There is also the pressure of A.L.: Yes, and at the same time, with the where Aerin Beauty is, sales have in- and low. People buy something from proving that you’re a bona-fide busi- home element, it all becomes very fo- creased and brought in a new consumer. {Continued on page 6} CONGRATULATIONS

Nobody does effortless style better. 6 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013

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{Continued from page 4} A.L.: It’s all different ages. It’s not long. I do. I used to always focus just Target and they buy something from necessarily about an age group, it’s on beauty and now I am focusing on so Bergdorf Goodman. That’s the way a about a state of mind. It’s an interest- many different things. modern woman lives and shops, wheth- ing brand because it’s very mother- er it’s for her home, her fashion, her daughter. There’s neutrals for some- WWD: When do you think it will be that beauty. There is something very real one who doesn’t want a lot of color you can say to yourself that you suc- about that. There is always an element but at the same time there’s a very ceeded, that you’ve finally made it, that to a brand that you wish for. There’s grown-up point of view about it. you can sleep a little more? always something you can dream for Aerin jewelry and A.L.: Success comes with happiness. If and there is something very appealing WWD: What have you discovered so far home accessories. you feel that you love the product and about that. in launching these categories? Were you’re proud of what you’ve created and you surprised by anything? especially a busy woman. No one has you’ve made people happy and you’ve WWD: So you’re going to have women A.L.: Probably the success of the neu- enough hours in their day and there changed their lives, to me, that’s success. from head to toe and the house from tral lipsticks. They were sold out that is something nice about going to a ceiling to floor? Sunday morning in that perfect nude. counter or a Web site and seeing a col- WWD: The more prosaic thing is when A.L.: When you see it all together, don’t Women love nude lipsticks. They really lection of a few pieces that are really you get into the black? you see how it feels very much like one do. They want to feel like they’re wear- beautiful and really special, whether it A.L.: Yes, of course that defines success point of view? ing a lipstick and they want to have a is beauty, home or accessories. as well. But for right now, just the anni- finished, polished look, but at the same versary of the first year — when some- WWD: When are we going to see ev- time they want a very neutral color. WWD: Has this experience changed thing is sold out and a friend e-mails erything with this huge sign that says your life at all? me that she went on our Web site to buy Aerin hanging from the ceiling? WWD: How are you going to expand that A.L.: It’s made it fuller and it’s made a shoe and they were sold out and she A.L.: Our first “world of ” store is going part of the line? it better. I love what I do and I’m so went to Nordstrom and they were sold to be in Southampton. We’re opening it A.L.: You can have different tones of proud of the product that we’re creat- out and can I please try to find her a Memorial Day Weekend. It’s this won- nude. If you get a lot of women to look ing. I love when I see someone wearing pair, that to me is success, that you cre- derful jewel box on Main Street, where at nude lipsticks, everyone has a dif- our shoes or our lipstick or carrying ate something that people want. you’re going to have lighting and fur- ferent point of view. There’s something our bag. It makes me smile. I think if it niture and beauty and accessories and that’s very that “no makeup makeup,” can make people happy and make them WWD: The licensees all seem to come the whole experience. We’re going to understated sensibility. It’s that phi- feel good about themselves then I have from different cultures. do a seasonal concept store and losophy that people are al- done a good job. A.L.: They are, but they are the best of keep it up through Christmas ways looking for. People the best and that’s something that I and change it for the season. also love the luxurious WWD: What’s the best thing it’s done for you? think is really important, that I have al- Right now, that’s keeping packaging. It’s the jux- A.L.: It’s probably made me happier. I ways been looking for excellence. And us quite busy. We have just taposition of the simple loved being at Estée Lauder and I loved I think that’s something that my grand- completed a book with gold lipstick case with my job there and I was there for many, mother always taught me — the most ex- Random House about the perfect nude lip- many years. It’s still such a part of me. cellent photographer, quality of product. style and beauty stick inside. Estée was my grandmother, I loved Jimlar is extraordinary at what they that’s coming her to death and I still think about her do [shoes]. EJ Victor is extraordinary out in October- WWD: Is that and her role and her presence and her at what they do [furniture]. The Lee November, whole na- dream. But this is a wonderful next Jofa people [fabrics, trimmings and in time for keds look chapter and great for the Estée Lauder area rugs], Stephen Elrod [executive the holidays. c o m i n g brand because it means truly the ulti- vice president and chief creative direc- Simon Upton did back? mate beauty story. People love storytell- tor at Lee Jofa], Lisa Kravet [executive the photography, who I worked Flats from the A.L.: Nakeds ing. You’re brought up on storytelling as vice president at Lee Jofa], who I’ve with [on a story for] Elle Decor. fall shoe line. are interesting. a little child and it continues as you get worked very closely with, they are all He’s got an amazing sensibility. There is nothing older and there is something wonderful extraordinary. They are proud of their I love more than a fabulous red lip and inspired by living in Europe. There’s product; they care about the quality WWD: Are there going to be more what you saw for fall with that touch of a fragrance that we’re doing that’s in- and distribution and execution. concept stores? color in deep rose — drama is always amaz- spired by a lilac bush that Estée planted A.L.: We’ll see. We have a couple of ing. But you need that contrast with the per- that I still have in my house. People WWD: Do you find yourself dealing with ideas that we’re thinking of for the an- fect nude. That’s why they call the lipstick love authenticity. They’re aware when a different cultures from one merchan- niversary for the following year. Our shade Perfect Nude, because it really brand is authentic or not. dise category to another? dream would be to do a shop within a is perfect. Women like both. What I also A.L.: Definitely a retailer meeting with shop with one retailer to create a world was very intrigued by and excited to WWD: Does this inspire you to travel a shoe buyer is very different than a of [Aerin]. see is that other people responded so more to find more things? cosmetic buyer or a home buyer. It’s a positively to the idea of edit. There’s so A.L.: I need to travel more. I do. I have complete learning experience for me WWD: Do you plan to continue doing many choices in your life. Everything is to find the time, but definitely that is but I always like it. personal appearances? too much and there’s something really my next New Year’s resolution. I would A.L.: I love personal appearances and nice about edit. There’s something very love to go to Istanbul and Mexico. WWD: What markets are you rolling out to? I’ve done quite a few. I’ll continue to do luxurious and special about it. What’s coming out of Mexico is fasci- A.L.: [For beauty] it’s the U.S., the U.K. them with the book launch. When I was little, I had, like, one nating — the architecture, the unex- and Canada for right now. In the world or two Barbie dolls. I didn’t have 20 pected color combinations. of home and accessories, we’re going WWD: When you do these in-store ap- Barbie dolls. Everything has changed into Asia in the spring; probably the fall pearances, who comes? Are they and everything has gotten so much. WWD: What’s the worst thing this has for home and spring for accessories. young women like you or older, with There’s something about edit and focus done to you? — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Estée stories? that is really appealing to a woman, A.L.: I check my Blackberry all night FROM JENNY B. FINE

furniture, and I’ve incorporated that into our furniture line,” said Lauder. The shop will also At Home With Aerin spotlight contemporary art, and A QUAINT STORE on Main swimwear from Brazilian de- works from the artist Donald Street in Southampton, N.Y., signer Jo de Mer. These items Sultan will be on view there. The aims to offers a glimpse into will mix seamlessly with Aerin vibe of the store, where goods the world of Aerin Lauder. beach bags, evening clutches, are accessible for shoppers to The beauty executive-turned- jewelry, shoes and sunglasses. touch and feel, is inspired in brand-creator will open the “It’s going to be a great place part by some of Lauder’s favor- doors to her first stand-alone for us to house beauty, acces- ite shopping haunts, including store, Aerin Southampton, sories and home items, as well Roberta Freymann, John Derian over Memorial Day weekend. as some curated pieces,” said Co. Inc. and William Wayne Lauder said the jewel box-sized Lauder. She has employed three & Co. She also counts depart- shop, located at 83 Main Street, long farm tables and wooden ment stores such as Bergdorf is designed to change its assort- bookcases to display a wide Goodman and Barneys New ment with the seasons — in this array of items, including pillows, York among her favorites. case summer, autumn and win- lanterns and picture frames. As to whether Lauder plans ter — before closing its doors Straw hats will hang from the to open year-round stand- after Christmas. grasscloth-covered walls, she A rendering of the Aerin Southampton store, slated to open later this month. alone stores, she said, “We’re It will feature Lauder’s added. “The store is a wonder- always exploring that. This is growing product collection ful mix of old and new. It has a of her office on Madison Avenue. at the same time there are ele- a wonderful first step. After under her namesake Aerin, wonderful, summery, beachy “It should feel almost as if you ments of home incorporated into the holidays we can re-look at as well as a smattering of her feel to it,” said Lauder, who are exploring someone’s closet, it.” Certain elements of the store [the idea] and decide where we beloved brands. For instance, collaborated with interior de- or home,” Lauder said of the are borrowed from Lauder’s want to do the next one or how the summer assortment in- signer Jacques Grange, who also store. “The shoes will be lined home in Wainscott, Long Island. we want to do it.” cludes Parasol swim shirts and helped Lauder with the design up, as well as the jewelry. And “I’ve got a ton of wonderful straw — MOLLY PRIOR

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A Founder’s Creative Path By Belisa Silva

I April 1970: Aerin ite white flowers. Two collection, includes her favorite, Lauder is born in New Aerin more scents, Private Pink Climbing Rose. Yo r k C i t y. Lauder as Collection Amber Ylang a toddler. Ylang and Private I November 2012: Aerin. A rendering of I May 1992: Lauder Collection com is established Lauder’s upcoming graduates from University Jasmine White with e-commerce. A lighting and of Pennsylvania’s Moss, follow in site update with op- furniture lines. Annenberg School for subsequent months. timized features will be Communication with a introduced in June. major in communications. I April 2011: Lauder I Aerin Home Accessories becomes the style is introduced with the I September 1992: and image director Home Objet collection, Lauder begins her for Estée Lauder, a a range of home accents, beauty career at Estée post she still holds. priced from $60 to $1,350, Lauder as a member of I Aerin LLC, a inspired by different mo- the Prescriptives mar- multicategory ments in Lauder’s life. keting team. luxury goods busi- ness, is formed I December 2012: Lauder I January 1995: She is appointed direc- with the goal of offering acces- wins the WWD Beauty Inc tor of creative product development at sories, jewelry, eyewear, home Award for Launch of the Estée Lauder. products and beauty items that Year in Prestige for the reflect Lauder’s vision of clas- Aerin Beauty line. sic American beauty. Her first licenses include a partnership I January 2013: with the Lenox Corporation and Lauder, who takes a Estée Lauder Inc. hands-on approach to all her social media A gold vase from I December 2011: Aerin LLC outlets, launches the Home Objet launches social media chan- on Instagram as collection. nels, beginning with Tumblr and a way to share Twitter, to help communicate her day-to-day more directly with consumers. inspirations. To keep it as personal as possible, I June 2012: Facebook and Pinterest she takes all her own pages are created to share Lauder’s Instagram photos. inspiration and brand DNA with consumers. I March 2013: Aerin The summer wedding. fashion accessories I August 2012: The World of Aerin blog begin to roll out is established, featuring interviews with Aerin with various tastemakers and posts Erickson I June 1996: Lauder marries Eric about Lauder’s personal passions like Beamon Zinterhofer in Wainscott, N.Y. family, travel and art. jewelry, A style from the Aerin foot- fall shoe collection. I December I September 2012: Aerin Beauty wear (created with 1999: Lauder launches with eight perma- Jimlar) and Oliver Peoples for Aerin Thirties and Seventies, in both decora- cochairs the sunglasses. Priced tive and minimal styles. The collec- Metropolitan between $150 and tions will be available in consumers in Museum’s $1,000, the spring col- September 2013. Costume lections from Aerin Institute Gala Erickson Beamon I Aerin Home Fragrance wins the & Exhibit. and the shoe line, Fragrance Foundation Award for which ranges between Interior Scent Collection of the Year. I April 2001: $148 and $368, were She is named inspired by interna- vice president tional beach destina- of global ad- tions. Oliver Peoples vertising for for Aerin launches Estée Lauder. with three oversize tortoise-shell frames, I July 2004: Lauder and Tommy $340 each, in colors Lauder rises Hilfiger in 1999. inspired by the Aerin to senior vice Beauty line. president and An Aerin creative director for Estée Lauder. Beauty I April 2013: Aerin’s palette. lighting, furniture and I August 2007: Lauder presents — and fabrics lines, created appears in the ad campaign for — the in conjunction with Estée Lauder Private Collection, a Visual Comfort & Co., Lauder visits the Aerin lighting showroom range of three scents designed to nent products designed to create E.J. Victor and Lee Jofa, respectively, at High Point Market. evoke the founder’s spirit in a mod- natural, stylish looks. Prices range make their debut at High Point Market. ern way. The debut scent, Private from $28 for a Rose Lip Conditioner These lines interpret French, Italian Collection Tuberose Gardenia, is to $148 for a brush set in soft pink and Austrian design between the I May 2013: Lauder begins a partner- a “sensual floral” that features a packaging. ship with philanthropic organiza- blend of her grandmother’s favor- tion First Book. Her initial donation I October 2012: An Aerin candle by Nest. provides 100,000 books to children in An ad for the Estée Lauder Private Collection. Aerin Home need in the Los Angeles area. Moving Fragrance is in- forward, Lauder will donate a portion troduced, in col- of the proceeds from special products laboration with to First Book. Nest Fragrances. I Lauder opens her first retail loca- The range, which tion in Southampton, a seasonal con- pays homage to cept store open through holiday 2013. flowers and is housed in hand- I November 2013: “Beauty at Home,” blown glass her first book, $60, will be introduced. vessels that re- It will incorporate tips on entertaining semble Lauder’s and interior design, and is published Venetian glass by Potter Style. CONGRATULATIONS

AERIN HOME FRAGRANCE BY NEST FRAGRANCES IS THE PROUD RECIPIENT OF THIS YEAR’S THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION INTERIOR SCENT COLLECTION OF THE YEAR AWARD 10 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2013

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Mood boards for the fall accessories collection.

FROM LIFE Aerin Lauder with sister Jane TO LAUNCH at Walt Disney World in 1979.

FOR AERIN LAUDER, A MEMORY IS A “The Aerin Home Fragrance collection is a group of floral SPRINGBOARD TO PRODUCT CREATION. scents for different times of the year, ranging from woodsy florals to light, refreshing bouquets that add depth and personality to any interior space,” said Lauder. “I love the Aerin “Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to visit signature scent Sky so many beautiful beach destinations around the Flower, which has world. Each location is so unique, each with its gardenia and magnolia own culture and style,” said Lauder. “I wanted to mixed with a touch of capture those individual elements from exotic Bourbon vanilla that locations such as the Côte d’Azur and Patmos and makes it a perfect incorporate that into my accessories collection.” scent for spring.” The debut Nest candle collection. Pondering the waves on Long Island in 1972.

“Aspen is so special to my family and has given us so many memories over the years,” said Lauder. “Aspen’s style is sophisticated yet rustic and a touch relaxed. I wanted styles in our fall collection to embody a sense of country elegance.”

Visiting Aspen in 2012. Boots from the fall collection.

Assorted beach-inspired Aerin offerings. OLIVER PEOPLES CELEBRATES AERIN LAUDER

AND HER EFFORTLESS STYLE

THANKS FOR AN AMAZING PARTNERSHIP BEAUTY AT HOME BY AERIN LAUDER AN INTIMATE LOOK INTO THE ICON’S HOMES AND LIFESTYLE WITH EVOCATIVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON UPTON AVA IL ABLE FA LL 2013

potter style