EAU DE JEWEL EVERYTHING’S RESORT BIDDING ROSY 2015 FOR TEENS MAX MARA VERA WANG, SYCAMORE ACQUIRES HONORED ROSE REEM ACRA, ELIE 9.9 PERCENT OF EXPRESS BYRNE AT THE KILIAN HENNESSY IS LAUNCHING INC. AND SEEKS TO CRYSTAL + LUCY SAAB AND MORE. BUY THE REST OF THE A LINE OF SCENTED NECKLACES PAGES 4 AND 5 AWARDS IN L.A. AND BRACELETS. PAGE 6 RETAILER. PAGE 2 PAGE 10

FIVE-YEAR PLAN Neiman’s Sets Overhaul Of Bergdorf Goodman

By DAVID MOIN

BERGDORF GOODMAN wants a sharper edge and will build a “lab” for emerging designers on its sixth fl oor, as parent Neiman Marcus Group sustains in- vestments in brick and mortar. The designer lab is part of “BG/2020,” a compre- FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY hensive, fi ve-year overhaul of the Bergdorf Goodman WWD women’s fl agship in Manhattan, commencing in a matter of weeks. “This is the fi rst major renovation of Bergdorf Goodman in the last 15 years. We are starting on the sixth fl oor and will come back down to the fi rst fl oor,” Karen Katz, president and chief ex- ecutive offi cer of Neiman Marcus Group Ltd. LLC, told WWD on Thursday. “I do think part of what Josh and the team will be doing is really to make sure we are balancing the assortments between all the wonderful designers we do great busi- ness with, with an ability to nurture new, young talent,” Katz said, referring to Joshua Schulman, BG’s president. On the sixth fl oor, which currently houses sports- wear, coats, eveningwear, lingerie and swimwear, the vision is for the lab for emerging designers, as well as modern designer sportswear and “salons” for eve- ning, outerwear and lingerie, Katz said. She has been touting NMG’s new owners, Ares Management LLC and the Canada Pension Plan Investment Board, which together bought Neiman’s for $6 billion last October, as eager to invest in the stores. On Thursday, Neiman’s disclosed results for its third quarter ended May 3, including a net loss of $2.7 million, compared to net earnings of $70.8 million in the year-ago period. Excluding purchase accounting and certain transaction-related and other expenses, adjusted net earnings for the third quarter came to $45.1 million, a 42.7 percent decline compared to $78.7 million in the prior year. Other expenses driving the net down stemmed from a former investment in Glamour Sales in China; SEE PAGE 9 Galeries Lafayette To Expand Into Italy

By WWD STAFF

PARIS — Italy’s biggest shopping attraction is taking shape — with a marquee French retailer as an anchor. Galeries Lafayette is to open a 194,000-square-foot fl agship in Westfi eld Milan, a future mall billed as Italy’s largest and viewed as something of a gamble, LoveWith her newest fragrance, DKNY MySong NY, Donna Karan is penning given the country’s downbeat economy. The fi rst phase of the development, covering al- an ode to her favorite city — and has recruited songstress most 1.9 million square feet, is slated to open at the Rita Ora to help her. The fragrance, which will be launched end of 2017 on a site in Segrate, 3.7 miles from central Milan and will contain about 300 stores. The second globally in August, will be sold in about 2,885 department and phase is to be completed in two to four years. specialty stores in the U.S. and could do upward of $50 million Galeries Lafayette said it reached an agreement with at retail in its fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 6. mall specialists Westfi eld and Arcus Real Estate, con- trolled by Stilo Immobiliare Finanziaria, to open the four-level, 194,400-square-foot unit, part of an acceler- ated international push and signaling that Europe’s de- partment stores are stretching into new frontiers. “It is the combination of a promising market and a commercial operator that is very active worldwide that has convinced us to sign this opening in Milan,” Nicolas Houzé, chief executive offi cer of Galeries Lafayette’s department store division, told WWD. “We expect to draw a clientele from all nationalities, European and international, from North and South America, Asia and China.” While acknowledging that few European countries have been spared economic woes and a drop in con- sumer spending, he held out hope the economic situ- PHOTO BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN ation on the continent will have improved by the time SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 WWD.COM Sycamore Seeks to Buy Express THE BRIEFING BOX

By VICKI M. YOUNG IN TODAY’S WWD

PRIVATE EQUITY FIRM Sycamore Partners has a new acquisition target in mind: teen retailer Express Inc. The New York-based private equity firm on Thursday sent a letter to the board of Express in- dicating that it has taken a 9.9 percent stake in the retailer and would like to acquire the balance of the shares it does not already own.

Sycamore, through its managing director Stefan Express shares climbed 19.9 percent JOHN AQUINO Kaluzny, said it would like to conduct due diligence in after-hours trading on Thursday. on the retailer to “determine a definitive valuation of the company,” and then within 30 days after get- PHOTO BY ting the OK to do the review, submit a binding, fully fell 2.6 percent to $13.55, but then climbed 19.9 per- financed proposal for the balance of the shares. cent to $16.25 after the SEC filing became public. Sycamore also noted that it has access to avail- In a Schedule 13-D filing with the Securities and able funds and manages over $3.5 billion in assets. Exchange Commission on Thursday, Sycamore said Kiernan Shipka at the party Sycamore earlier this week said it just closed on it had invested through affiliates $106.2 million, in- honoring Rose Byrne. AMY GRAVES commitments of $2.5 billion for its second fund. The clusive of brokerage commissions, to acquire the For more, see WWD.com. first fund closed in 2012 with $1 billion in commit- 8.3 million shares of common stock of Express, to- PHOTO BY ments from investors. taling a 9.9 percent stake, in a number of transac- Express confirmed receipt of the letter from tions on the open market. Sycamore and said it has established a special Express was once part of the portfolio of Leslie Galeries Lafayette is to open a 194,000-square-foot flagship committee of the board to determine a course of ac- Wexner’s Limited Brands. Private equity firm in Westfield Milan, a future mall billed as Italy’s largest. PAGE 1 tion. The company also noted that it has adopted a Golden Gate Capital acquired a partial stake in Stockholder Rights Plan to allow the board time to the company. The teen retailer went public in Bergdorf Goodman wants a sharper edge and will build a “lab” consider its options. 2010. Both Golden Gate and Limited no long own for emerging designers. PAGE 1 At the close of trading Thursday, Express shares stakes in Express. Lands’ End’s net was up 48.1 percent in its first quarter since

being spun off by Sears Holdings Corp. PAGE 3

Lululemon Stock Hit on Forecast Mulberry’s road to recovery will be long — but a new beginning is in sight, according to its executive chairman. PAGE 3 LULULEMON ATHLETICA INC.’S a three-month average volume Potdevin spoke during a con- issues are far from over. of 3.1 million, as the stock on ference call with Wall Street Donna Karan has enlisted Rita Ora to give her a hand with her Shares of the yogawear retail- Thursday closed’’ at $37.25. analysts about Lululemon imple- newest fragrance, DKNY My NY. PAGE 6 er slumped 15.9 percent in over- For the three months ended menting a social platform that the-counter trading Thursday May 4, net income was $19 mil- would allow it to “leverage the Kilian Jewelry will introduce a line of scented necklaces and after the company said first-quar- lion, or 13 cents a diluted share, power of our investor communi- bracelets that are due out later this month. PAGE 6 ter profits fell 59.9 percent and from $47.3 million, or 32 cents, ty,” as well as an in-store technol- lowered guidance for the year. in the year-ago quarter. The drop ogy rollout to enable shoppers to was mostly due to a tax expense buy from the larger online inven- Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million fragrance is gearing up for the Laurent Potdevin, chief execu- PAGE 7 tive officer, noted three key priori- related to planned repatriation tory that’s more encompassing launch of a new counterpart, Lady Million Eau My Gold. ties to turn the company around of foreign earnings that will be than what’s in the stores. While — build the product engine to used to fund the company’s $450 he spoke about how the digital Nails Inc. is celebrating its 15th anniversary with new consistently push new offerings million share buyback program. project allows the company to packaging and other brand enhancements. PAGE 7 in men’s and women’s, implement Net revenue rose 11.2 percent to target new “guests” and drive a new branding and communica- $384.6 million from $345.8 million. additional sales, he didn’t elabo- Paris-based Cifonelli, whose roots go back to 1880, will tions strategy and international The company, which said its rate on what would be new to launch its first ready-to-wear collection in September. PAGE 8 growth. Investors didn’t seem board has approved the share the social platform. Executives impressed, at least concerning Printemps has given over its windows, central atrium and even Lululemon’s short-term fortunes. a pop-up Alain Ducasse café to crystal-maker Baccarat. PAGE 9 That’s in part because Potdevin [Second-quarter] sales have also said, “We knew heading into The Young Friends of ACRIA summer dinner Wednesday night 2014 that driving sales in the first in New York raised $300,000. PAGE 10 half of the year would be impacted started off behind plan and by the suboptimal product assort- Versace’s Versus and Superga have partnered on a colorful ment combined with the traffic comps are more impacted than new collection of shoes. PAGE 11 trend. [Second-quarter] sales have started off behind plan and comps DuJour magazine are more impacted than we had we had originally anticipated. founder and publisher Jason Binn discusses the past, present and future of his publication. PAGE 11 originally anticipated.” — LAURENT POTDEVIN, LULULEMON ATHLETICA INC. He noted that while there’s ON WWD.COM been progress on the product development front and the re- buyback program, also lowered on the call said it will go live in EYE: On Tuesday night, Rose Byrne was the guest of honor design of the retailer’s go-to- guidance for the second quarter September to “gather up real- at a party at the Chateau Marmont hosted by Max Mara’s market calendar that will start and full year. time, all of the work that’s hap- Nicola Maramotti. For more, see WWD.com. to reap benefits in the second For the second quarter, the pening in our communities and quarter of 2015, it won’t be until firm expects net revenue of be- sort of be able to share that in a the first quarter of 2016 that the tween $375 million and $380 mil- much more efficient way.” company will have a “fully opera- lion, and diluted earnings per Separately, the company FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA tional world-class product engine share of 28 cents to 30 cents. said chief financial officer John @ WWD.com/social to support a global omnichannel For full fiscal year 2014, net Currie intends to retire by the multibrand business with local- revenue is forecasted in the end of the fiscal year. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ized assortment capability.” range of $1.77 billion to $1.80 bil- Analysts remained cautious WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. 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WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR tomer loyalty, quality control DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TIM JENKINS First-quarter profits fell infrastructure investments may TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING 59.9 percent at Lululemon. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, take longer than anticipated and UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND

PHOTO BY drag on returns.” — V.M.Y. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 3 WWD.COM Mulberry Sees Slow Recovery Lands’ End Profit Up in Qtr. Andretta is currently ceo of the Italian $276 million while the retail segment By SAMANTHA CONTI jewelry brand Buccellati, and has worked By DAVID MOIN slipped 2.3 percent to $54.4 million. at Lanvin, Moschino, the former Gucci Same-store sales increased 3.4 percent. LONDON — Mulberry’s road to recovery Group, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis IT WAS CLEAR sailing for Lands’ End Huber suggested that Lands’ End will be long — but a new beginning is in Vuitton, Céline and Emanuel Ungaro. in its first quarter since being spun off was able to transcend the generally sight, the company’s executive chairman One of Davis’ first efforts has been to by Sears Holdings Corp. and going pub- poor retail climate because it sells Godfrey Davis told WWD Thursday. reintroduce a more accessible price range. lic in April. more products direct-to-consumer, In the year to March 31, Mulberry “We have listened to our customers Merchandise improvements, target- rather than through brick-and-mortar, Group saw its profits fall more than 50 and are introducing attractive new prod- ed marketing and better inventory and which was impacted by the harsh win- percent to 8.6 million pounds, or $13.7 ucts in the key 500 [pounds] to 800 pounds expense controls drove the net up 48.1 ter in the first quarter. He said Lands’ million, due to a series of one-off costs price range,” said Davis. At current ex- percent to $10.9 million compared with and a dip in sales, which the company change, the bags cost $840 to $1,340. $7.3 million in the year-ago period. had warned about in the spring. “As a first step, we introduced the new Investors were impressed and A hot-selling look The drop came in part from a deci- Tessie collection two weeks ago, which pushed the stock up 8.2 percent, or at Lands’ End. sion to write down the net carrying value is proving popular,” said Davis, adding $2.18, to $28.81 on the Nasdaq. of two U.S. stores, creating a non-cash that the bags have been on the shop floor “We were very pleased with the results, charge of 2.7 million pounds, or $4.4 mil- for the past two weeks, and have already especially in the U.S. We see the strong lion. The company had also warned that joined the ranks of Mulberry’s bestsellers. trend continuing,” Edgar Huber, presi- costs related to the exit of former chief He said one of the big mistakes that dent and chief executive officer of the executive officer Bruno Guillon earlier Mulberry had made over the past 18 months Dodgeville, Wis.-based brand, told WWD. this year would also dent profits. was to take its eyes off the entry price level, Huber said there was a “positive Sales in the 12 months dipped about 1 and put too big a focus on the stockkeeping customer response to our merchandis- percent to 163.5 million pounds, or $260 mil- units at the top. Now, he said, Mulberry is ing and marketing strategies” and the lion, dented by a 6 percent fall in wholesale seeking a more balanced product offer. company remains focused on “improv- sales. As reported, Mulberry’s South Korean “Things did go wrong in the past, but ing the contemporary relevance of the clients abruptly canceled their orders earli- some things went right,” he said, pointing Lands’ End brand.” er this year. The country represented about to the success of the Willow bag, which is Huber’s strategy revolves around 20 percent of the wholesale business. priced at 1,500 pounds, or $2,500. growing Lands’ End into a global “life- Dollar figures have been calculated at The current fiscal year is off to a sluggish style” brand and some steps have been average exchange rates for the periods to start, with total retail sales 9 percent below taken. In February, the Lands’ End which they refer. the corresponding period last year, and like- Coastal Living body-care line, including It’s been a turbulent 12 months for the for-like sales down 15 percent in the 10 weeks hand creams, body lotions and shower British brand, which lost both Guillon and to June 7. A double-digit decline in wholesale gels, was launched. Huber said it was too its creative director Emma Hill. Mulberry sales is expected for the 2014-15 year. early to reach a verdict on Coastal Living. End, with its lower dependence on issued multiple profit warnings after its at- Davis clarified the first-quarter figures. Nevertheless, it’s expected that within brick-and-mortar, doesn’t have the floor tempts to move upmarket too rapidly, a move He said they were distorted by major the next few months, Lands’ End will set constraints of most retailers and the that left its core British customer behind. clearance activity in the corresponding pe- reveal additional brand extensions to company was able to sell fall-winter Davis, who had helped steer Mulberry to riod last year for the Alexa and Bayswater further project a lifestyle approach. The products longer than other retailers. success as ceo before Guillon’s arrival, is now bags, and added that none of the compa- company has also expanded its range of Lands’ End continues to be sold inside running day-to-day operations as executive ny’s recent changes had come into effect sizes and fits in several categories. Sears stores. Sears store closings had chairman. He said during an interview that for the first eight of those 10 weeks. Adjusted earnings before interest, an impact on Lands’ End’s total sales, growth is once again within Mulberry’s grasp. Davis said a backpack designed by taxes, depreciation and amortization though Huber noted there were com- “I think the first six months of this year will Cara Delevingne would hit shelves in increased 35.2 percent to $23.8 million parable-store sales gains. Lands’ End be difficult, but there will be green shoots,” September and will continue into spring in the quarter ended May 2, compared manages its shops-in-shop at Sears. David said. “The second half will see im- 2015. Mulberry has added pouches and with $17.6 million in the year-ago pe- Swim, dresses and boys and girls provement, and we’ll see the full benefit of small leather goods to the Delevingne offer. riod. Merchandise sales and services products were the strongest categories the changes we’re making in the 2015-16 year.” Asked about succession plans, he said increased 3.6 percent to $330.5 mil- last quarter, specifically Beach Living Davis said the brand would remain a the company’s priority was to lock in a lion from $319 million a year ago. The swim products, girls dresses and boys luxury player, but one that sells product new creative director before beginning a direct segment rose 4.8 percent to graphic T-shirts. suited to modern lives and real people. hunt for a new ceo. With regard to store Indeed, earlier this week, Mulberry re- openings, the brand plans to open five vealed that Thierry Andretta had joined new units this year, in Las Vegas, Dallas, its board as an independent non-execu- Germany and France. It will open its Paris tive director, with immediate effect. flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré next year. Strong Growth for Boohoo.com LONDON — Investors cheered All Boohoo figures have been con- Boohoo.com, the British fast-fashion verted at average exchange rates for site that saw its full-year profits near- the period to which they refer. ly quadruple to 8.4 million pounds, Boohoo has local-language sites Bebe CEO Steve Birkhold Exits or $13.4 million, sending the stock in French and Spanish, while a ing net and same-store sales. Comparable price up 9.8 percent to 50 pence, or 85 Scandinavian one is planned for later By ARNOLD J. KARR sales, including e-commerce and catalogue, cents, on Thursday. this year. During the 12-month pe- declined 8.6 and 7.1 percent, respectively, Boohoo, a pure-play e-tailer whose riod, the U.S. market trebled in size STEVE BIRKHOLD resigned Thursday as in the third and fourth quarters of fiscal core market is 14- to 35-year-olds and and a local office in New York is being chief executive officer of Brisbane, Calif.- 2013, his first two quarters at the firm, as focus is on value fashion, said sales were planned. The intention is to recruit a based Bebe Stores Inc. after 17 months losses for the six months totaled $70 mil- up 63 percent to 109.8 million pounds, or small team to push local marketing, on the job, a tenure marked by declining lion. In the first nine months of the current $174.6 million, in the year to Feb. 28. Boohoo said. sales and persistent losses. fiscal year, through April 5, the net loss fell The results were Boohoo’s first “The past year has been an excit- Jim Wiggett, ceo of the Jackson Hole to $38.9 million from $56.7 million, while since it was listed on the London Stock ing one, and we are very proud of the Group consulting firm and a longtime ad- net sales dropped 7.6 percent to $365.5 Exchange in mid-March. growth we have seen in both our U.K. viser to Bebe, has been appointed interim million and comps fell 3.3 percent with 19 The company’s largest market re- and international markets,” Mahmud ceo as the firm begin its search for a per- fewer stores than in the previous year’s mains the U.K., where revenue grew by Kamani and Carol Kane, joint chief manent successor. Manny Mashouf, found- quarter. Although net sales were down 60 percent. Europe was up by 78 percent executive officers said Thursday. “The er and non-executive chairman of Bebe, 17.2 percent, to $93.5 million, in the third and the rest of the world by 65 percent. launch of new product categories, in- called Wiggett “a highly accomplished ex- quarter, as the company’s net loss was cut Sales continue to grow, albeit at vestment in our warehouse and IT in- ecutive with proven leadership capabili- in half, Birkhold said upon the release of a slower pace: Revenue in the three frastructure and, of course, the invest- ties, retail and merchandising expertise quarterly results on May 8 that he was en- months to May 31 was up 24 percent to ment and development of our teams all and a wealth of strategic business knowl- couraged by “improved sales and margin 30.7 million pounds, or $51.5 million, support our future growth.” edge, and we look forward to his insights performance in both our e-commerce and according to the company, while at con- Boohoo said it carries about 9,000 into the strategic direction of the company.” catalogue businesses” during the period. stant exchange rates it rose 28 percent. styles, with dresses representing more Wiggett is a former LVMH Moët Reacting to those results last month, than 30 percent of the product range. Hennessy Louis Vuitton executive who Janney Capital Markets analyst Adrienne The main line dresses are priced be- served as president and ceo of sephora.com Tennant noted that comps during the quar- tween 12 pounds and 25 pounds, or $20 and in senior positions with Macy’s Inc. ter ended in April were flat in the West, and $42, and are developed to be both Several sources said Birkhold’s de- where weather exacted a smaller toll on re- high fashion and low cost. parture came as no surprise considering tailers than it did in the East and Midwest. The company designs, sources, mar- Bebe’s recent financial performance and “We continue to believe that the product kets and sells its own-brand clothing, the sale, on May 29, of his entire stake of has consistently improved with each suc- shoes and accessories. 141,000 shares of company stock for $4.07 cessive flow,” she wrote in a research note BoohooMan was introduced in fall a share. Shares dropped 16.7 percent, to in which she maintained her “buy” rating. 2013 and comprises “a mix of high fash- $3.39 from $4.07, on June 2, as investors However, she noted that the company ion and style steals,” according to the learned of the liquidation of his posi- was on a pace to burn through $60 million company. Men’s wear grew by 117 per- tion. They were down 1.8 percent to $3.30 in cash this year. It had $116.9 million in cent compared with the previous year. Thursday following Birkhold’s resignation. cash and cash equivalents at the end of its The plus-size range, Boohoo plus, Calls to Bebe seeking comment weren’t third quarter. was introduced earlier this year, and returned. Birkhold, former ceo of Diesel USA, the company said it plans to expand Despite some recent signs of nominal resigned as ceo of Devanlay U.S., opera- that offering to satisfy demand. A petite improvement, Birkhold had been unable tors of the Lacoste business in the U.S., to range is set for later this year. — S.C. to reverse the company’s losses and declin- take the Bebe post, succeeding Mashouf. The Boohoo.com homepage Thursday.

w13a003a;7.indd 3 6/12/14 7:21 PM 06122014192207 4 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 Resort 2015 Vera Wang Reem Acra Elie Saab Vera Wang: Gypsy tomboys, resort,” thinking about how a flower girls and downtown girl would wear her bourgeois cowboys were the archetypes mother’s clothes. That listed in Vera Wang’s resort translated into a collection notes. The trio came together with an almost exaggerated in a dark, beautiful lineup femininity — and lots of with a modern take on grunge edge. There were soft wool at its core. It was particularly gabardine trenches with strong in the layered looks, rough seams, bow-tie blouses such as the slightly sheer rose- featuring dramatic capelike printed habotai shirt gown, sleeves and cotton bustiers which, unbuttoned from waist with delicate sleeves. down, was layered over pebble Anderson also collaborated Lurex shorts. with textile designer Jessica The duality of mannish and Mort, a recent graduate of feminine also played into the Central Saint Martins, on grungy notion, i.e., a shiny 3-D three pieces in the collection, floral-sequined dress that Wang including a skirt resembling a showed under an elongated, sarong. Crafted from ruched tuxedo-tailed wool cardigan. In net fabric, it seemed more a continuation on her charming suited to urban landscapes word play from fall, “Stop It” than seaside ones. was worked in intarsia on the cardigan’s back. Opening Ceremony: Talk about street savvy. For Humberto Reem Acra: Reem Acra said that Leon and Carol Lim’s Opening travel inspires her more than Ceremony show (women’s anything, be it her business resort and men’s spring), trips to the Middle East, the models paraded the four dressage horse competitions Manhattan blocks from the or excursions just for fun. brand’s office to store. Her most recent vacation The women’s clothes in Sardinia — and its light featured a more demonstrative and bright colors — showed dose of femininity than in up in resort’s shimmering seasons past. Strips of raffia embellishments with gold, added a pretty decorative Preen by silver and turquoise on the detail as tuxedo stripes on Thornton bodices of white ballgowns pants and as an accent on Bregazzi and sequined twinsets over a netted skirt. Leon said fluid white crepe pants. “I they imagined a futuristic like embroidery to look like tropical island for the prints, jewelry,” said Acra, who also thus an anemone floral came featured simple and sexy on a tunic and pencil skirt sheer stretch lace columns that and cabana stripes on tops, were lined only to the thighs skirts and slim pants. The — a favorite reveal for many men’s looks were done in a evening designers this season. similar vein, with filtered and distorted florals combined Elie Saab: A study of with athletic references. Impressionist paintings yielded a light palette of strawberry Organic by John Patrick: John pink, mint green, blush and Patrick started his Organic yellow, and at least one print resort collection by thinking for Elie Saab’s resort lineup. about the contrast between Eveningwear remains the urban and country living. He label’s core, and the designer showed refreshingly simple FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE evolved with a few unexpected clothes that “one can live in,” combinations, including a knit he said, such as a loose-cut WWD.com/ halter gown with a filmy silk trench over a striped T-shirt runway. skirt, another gown done in and fluid blue cropped pants. stripes of embroidered lace A tough-girl aesthetic came and blouses over long skirts. through subtly in gold lamé Saab is keen to develop his separates that were grounded separates business for cocktail by T-shirts and knits. and daytime, which is never casual for his clientele. Thus, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: his version of a tracksuit was Justin Thornton and Thea done in pink stretch cady with Bregazzi disrupted classically lace insets. ladylike shapes with sporty pops of color, graphic prints Giambattista Valli: Giambattista and athletic accents, giving Valli filed his mix of floral wearable silhouettes fresh prints under “Flower Power,” details and a modern attitude. working them in a “happy” Some looks were an overt palette of brights on white, study in contrast, such as a pink and blurry lavender and cornflower blue strapless lace collection. Lace continued to be line — embroidered sneakers, including colorblocking, yellow. It was an upbeat, playful dress styled with a fluorescent a focal point for the designer: flat sandals and Mongolian fur prints and fantastical lineup — red lips trimmed the yellow nylon Windbreaker She used a French version that tote bags. woven treatments. Ilincic necks and waists of minidresses around the waist, and a range looked like jacquard for short embraced sportif with — that covered cocktail, Valli’s of amply cut silk devoré dresses black dresses with pleated Roksanda: Just off a flight from some lightweight jacquard bread and butter, with an array that came in photographic panels, and a lace pattern gave London, where she opened sweatshirts and used of laces, fil coupes, structured prints. Others were more visual texture to silk dresses and her first store, Roksanda bonded fabrics in pop hues satins and ethereal silks. There subtle, such as the very cool, tops. Looking to the Twenties as Ilincic had her multitasking like turquoise and bright were also some nifty sporty oversize trench in traditional inspiration, Wauchob worked hat on. Her newly re-branded yellow, turning a simple separates, such as the killer khaki and navy with bright PVC lingerie dresses that veered Roksanda collection kept pantsuit and oversize coat pair of flared pants that are strips at the wrist. flapper and paired them with pace, full of everything from into major statements. But guaranteed to turn legs into tweed coats that looked as sporty separates to elegant the real wow factor came long, lean stems. Sharon Wauchob: “Now that the comfortable as robes. Easy eveningwear. with a series of cocktail brand’s codes are getting well and playful, her silhouettes She said the season was dresses, their fronts done J.W. Anderson: Jonathan known, it’s time to push a little balanced refined femininity a celebration of color and in a panel of woven PVC Anderson said he set out to bit,” Sharon Wauchob said with boyish casualness and were made that point with lots strings that, while molded, work with the “clichés of as she explained her resort worn with her new accessories of different combinations still moved with the body.

w13a004a(5).indd 1 6/12/14 7:02 PM 06122014190713 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Elie Saab Sharon Ohne Titel Opening Organic by Wauchob Ceremony John Patrick

Giambattista Roksanda Naeem J.W. Paule Ka Rosetta Valli Khan Anderson Getty ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

Naeem Khan: At the request of his end, there were Bermudas straight and diagonal striped cropped black trousers. The options. She offered many retailers, Naeem Khan created and pleated shorts in white panels looked great under an graphic Sixties came through of her key pieces in dual a 95-piece resort collection — silk crepe shown with beaded anorak in a winding zebra print. via micro-mini A-line dresses fabrics for day or evening twice the size of last year’s. T-shirts and pullovers, some A cool effect came via a foil- in everything from multicolor options, function or fashion. His slender gowns, sheaths in stripes and others in a printed chiffon skirt meant to stripes to a yellow, black and Her trenchcoat, for example, and kaftans (the latter done geometric pattern. When it look like “wet leather,” said white color-blocked version. came in waterproof cotton especially for his Middle East came to these summery looks, Adams. “We wanted to give the The dressier looks were also or chic Japanese twill, while clientele) were rich as always Khan said it’s Palm Beach, Fla., idea of coming out of the pool.” given the casual treatment to a twisted-back gown was with allover hand-embroidered that he had in mind. refreshing results — a bicolor offered in the same twill embellishment. Khan also Paule Ka: Sporty-meets- dress featured a white cotton top or a heavy satin. Getty said added fresh surface interest Ohne Titel: Graphics met scuba at graphic-Sixties sums up Serge and stretch cotton jersey skirt her goal was to create “a via laser-cut leather flowers on Ohne Titel for resort. Designers Cajfinger’s resort collection with pleated detail at the waist. collection you can collect,” strapless tulle gowns. Alexa Adams and Flora Gill for Paule Ka. The former was and the sheared mink hi-low Still, the designer noted worked their optic aesthetic via best expressed in the casual Rosetta Getty: There was a quiet vest, pleated-back T-shirt, that his goal this season was to a curvy-versus-linear concept daywear looks, such as a white elegance to Rosetta Getty’s slouchy crepe pull-on pants “make sportswear that is both to refreshing results. A knitted tricotine coat with black piping beautiful sophomore effort, and fold-front skirt all hit casual and glamorous.” To that two-piece bathing suit done in paired with a white shirt and which focused on versatile the mark. 6 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 McCluskey Tapped beauty For Avon Board HELEN MCCLUSKEY is joining the board of Avon Products Inc., effective July 1. McCluskey, former president and chief executive officer of The Warnaco DKNY: Singing a New Tune Group Inc., was elected by the Avon board, increasing its total members to 11. who can,” Karan said with a chuckle. ing for Aramis & Designer Fragrances. She is currently on PVH Corp.’s board By JULIE NAUGHTON “You’ve got a young, hip woman of New Kim added that the digital campaign, until June 19, when her tenure ends. PVH York speaking about it, a woman who goes which includes a dedicated microsite, acquired Warnaco in February 2013. WITH HER newest fragrance, DKNY My from day to night. I think Rita’s a great will “break the mold of the traditional Sheri McCoy, Avon’s ceo, said of N Y, Donna Karan is aiming to express representative of DKNY. She’s full of life, fragrance launch” by unveiling the print McCluskey, “She has an incredibly the modern urban spirit of her beloved she’s about what everyone wants to feel — campaign online before it begins running strong background in women’s brands city — and has enlisted Rita Ora to give energy. And I find her ageless. She’s like in print. Users are able to share their own globally and rich merchandising ex- her a hand. this Energizer bunny who can wear any- New York stories by creating a pixelated pertise. I know she will contribute Ora — a singer, songwriter and actress thing from track shoes to stilettos, DKNY heart, similar to what’s in the campaign, valuable insight as a director.” who will appear in the upcoming movie to Donna Karan. I love the girl as a per- with photos of iconic New York City lo- Avon’s chairman Doug Conant “Shades of Grey” — stars in the advertis- son, too. She walks the talk.” cations and share it on their social plat- said, “Helen has a valuable blend of ing for the new scent, which she forms, she said. A quiz will allow branding, marketing and international calls “energy in a bottle.” Ora users to determine what type of experience. Having led a public com- has also done print campaigns New Yorker they are. pany previously, she brings a wealth of for DKNY ready-to-wear and for The juice, developed by Trudi knowledge to Avon’s board.” Rimmel, although this is her first Loren, senior vice president of McCluskey has held a succession of fragrance campaign. corporate fragrance development roles at Warnaco during her decade at “Donna’s a very powerful and for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in the company. She joined in 2004, serv- confident woman,” Ora told WWD partnership with International ing as group president of intimate ap- in an exclusive phone interview. Flavors & Fragrances, has top parel. In June 2007, she also assumed “She comes across as very strong, notes of raspberries, galbanum global responsibility for Warnaco’s and that’s what I love about her and pink pepper, a heart of swimwear brands. In 2010, she was line. It’s a very confident, ener- Egyptian jasmine, freesia and named chief operating officer, adding getic line and it’s about women orris root, and a drydown of to her responsibilities oversight of the who speak their minds. The fra- Patchouli Heart LMR, vanilla ab- Calvin Klein Jeans brand, in addition grance celebrates New York City, solute, musk and ambergris. to Warnaco’s international business which is unlike anyplace else in Eaux de parfum in three and the global supply chain and sourc- the world. I love the idea of being sizes — 1 oz. for $48, 1.7 oz. for ing operations. part of a campaign that captures $68 and 3.4 oz. for $88 — will be She is credited with expanding the the spirit of New York and the The DKNY My NY ad. offered, as will a shower gel, Calvin Klein underwear business, dou- stories of women here, passionate $30; body lotion, $40, and a roll- bling revenues in a four-year period, about their dreams.” The ad campaign, which includes TV erball, $24. The scent’s heart-shaped and had a key role in product launches, Ora said she finds “great inspiration in and print, was shot in Times Square by bottle has a silver metallic skyline cap; such as Calvin Klein Steel, Calvin Klein New York City and its people. It’s so artistic Francesco Carrozzini. TV is planned at the juice is tinted pale pink. X and CK One. She was named presi- and vibrant. I moved to NYC [she was born launch and for the holidays and print In North America, the scent will be in dent and ceo of the company in 2012. in Kosovo and raised in the U.K.] when I ads will begin breaking in August fash- 2,885 department and specialty store doors Prior to joining Warnaco, she held was 17 and began this new chapter in my ion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, in the U.S. and in 1,400 doors in Canada. posts at Liz Claiborne Corp. and life. I’m never going to forget New York, said Diane Kim, senior vice president of While executives declined comment on Sara Lee Corp. She began her ca- because my career started in the city. New global marketing for Aramis & Designer projected sales, industry sources estimated reer at Firestone Tire & Rubber Co. York has always been a fairy tale to me.” Fragrances. A digital campaign will that DKNY My N Y, which is another pillar McCluskey also serves as a director Ora’s enthusiasm was a hit with the de- break on Aug. 19, added Dena Nilsen, in the DKNY stable, could do upward of $50 at Signet Jewelers Ltd. signer. “If Rita can’t sell it, I don’t know vice president of North America market- million at retail in its first year on counter. — VICKI M. YOUNG Kilian Hennessy Launches Scented Jewelry tasseled models and one with a locket. Seoul, and Dubai — By JENNIFER WEIL Each involves a cage system made of per- through yearend. forated metal that holds a ceramic piece Hennessy would PARIS — A beauty conundrum Kilian onto which fragrance can be applied. not discuss sales Hennessy set to solve is how to make per- The Leathers of l’Oeuvre Noire are goals, but industry Fragrant fume visible. four bracelets — in a selection of five sources estimate the necklaces. “We are living in a world where things scents — for men in either brown-and- jewelry could gener- that are invisible don’t exist,” said the gold or black-and-silver finishes. Their ate $1 million in re- executive, referring to the plethora of fragrance is said to last up to one year. tail revenues during images on everything from Instagram to Hennessy designed them all. Tassels its first six months. Facebook. “Perfume is an accessory in have appeared on By Kilian fragrances’ And the line won’t the same way shoes and handbags are. boxes, and the metal shield design, an- stop there; he plans to But it’s an accessory that is not visible.” other leitmotif on the brand’s packaging, launch fragranced rings and That’s set to change, however, with Kilian is on some of the jewelry, as well. “It’s al- earrings for the holiday period. Jewelry — a line of scented necklaces and ways essential shapes,” he said. Hennessy is also gearing up for a bracelets — due out starting midmonth. Prices for the women’s line range fall introduction of a new collection It marks a break from the well-trod- from $245 for the locket necklace to $465 of fragrances targeting men, called Sidonie Lancesseur, its den business strategies involving for the onyx piece. The bracelets Addictive State of Mind. notes involve cumin, tedded either a fragrance brand branching run from $195 to $325. “I wanted to work on the theme of ad- hay, patchouli, vetiver, honey out with makeup and skin care or The jewelry is set to launch dictions,” he said, adding it’s a counter- and vanilla, among others. with ancillary products. Sunday in the By Kilian part to By Kilian’s Garden of Good and Smoke for the Soul gives a nod to “The question for me was: boutiques in New York and Evil collection. “I thought it would be cannabis, with notes of eucalyptus, Can I invent my own business Moscow, plus online through great to work around three smokes.” grapefruit, cardamom and mate tea, model?” he said, reiterating bykilian.com. Its rollout will Intoxicated takes its cue from the plus accords of tobacco, birch and cash- his brand’s tag line, “Perfume include London’s Harrods scent of Turkish coffee. Created with mere woods. It was concocted with as an Art.” and Bergdorf Goodman in Givaudan’s Calice Becker, it includes Firmenich’s Fabrice Pellegrin. “I want to bring excite- September and the upcom- notes of green cardamom, nutmeg and The scents come in black and silver ment into the world of per- ing Kilian boutiques — in powdered cinnamon. refillable bottles. fume,” he said. “So I had this Paris; Lugano, Switzerland; Monte Cristo cigars inspired Light My The new line is due out Oct. 15 in the crazy idea two years ago.” Doha, Qatar; Fire. Done with Robertet’s U.S., U.K., France and Russia, before Dream became reality being introduced in the rest of the world. with The Jewels of l’Oeuvre Scented bracelets. Each 50-ml. spray will retail for $270. Noire, a capsule line Reminiscent of a vintage cigar holder, of four necklaces for the scent’s outer box is of wood and women, each one com- bronze-finished metal. ing in 18-karat-gold Industry sources estimate plate and pure rho- Addictive State of Mind should dium. There’s an onyx make $10 million in retail bead tassel necklace sales during its first three (whose cord is micro- months on the market. encapsulated with In 2015, Hennessy one of six By Kilian Smoke for the Soul plans to launch a scented scents), plus two other home collection. WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 7 WWD.COM Paco Rabanne’s Golden Lady PARIS — Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million fragrance International Flavors & Fragrances’ Anne is gearing up for the launch next week of a new Flipo created the new fragrance that’s fresher counterpart — Lady Million Eau My Gold. and more sparkling than Lady Million, whose THE “Lady Million is today one of the pillars of the juice is an opulent floral bouquet, although Rabanne brand,” said Vincent Thilloy, vice presi- both scents share orange blossom absolute in dent of prestige designers at Puig, the label’s their heart. owner. “We therefore decided to launch this ex- Specifically, Eau My Gold has notes of green tension of the Lady Million universe.” mango and grapefruit in the top; violet leaf Eau My Gold comes four years after and orange blossom absolutes in the mid- Lady Million eau de parfum, whose dle, and cedar heart and amber musks bottle is shaped like a diamond and in the base. advertising campaign centers on The fragrance’s name is meant the fantasy of obtaining things — to be like an exclamation, and its NEW like new shoes — in a snap. bottle recalls an extruded ver- “We wanted to express the sion of Lady Million’s (“almost more mischievous side of fem- like a glass of Champagne,” ininity,” continued Thilloy, de- said Holtzmann). scribing it also as joyous. In France, the 50- and 80-ml. “When we started to think Eau My Gold bottles will retail about a new universe, we for 59.70 euros and 77 euros, or thought about how does this $81 and $104.45 at current ex- dream of changing your life by change, respectively. a snap of the fingers translate While Puig executives FACE today,” said Jean Holtzmann, in- would not divulge projections, ternational marketing director of industry sources estimate Eau Paco Rabanne Parfums. “Maybe to- My Gold could generate $75 mil- day’s ultimate dream is of happiness, lion in retail sales during its first which is something more personal year worldwide. and completely disconnected from The fragrance will be launched OF CEW something that is more materialistic.” first in the Netherlands on Monday, It’s about a freedom of self and followed quickly by Belgium, personal pleasure, as well. France, the U.K. and Hungary. Model Hana Jirickova succeeds Subsequent introductions include Dree Hemingway as the face of the Lady the travel-retail channel in the Asia- Million franchise. In the new film ad di- Paco Pacific, European and Latin American rected by Alexandre Cortès, Jirickova — Rabanne’s zones in July; Canada and Russia in looking like a Fifties showgirl — sits in an Lady Million August; North American travel retail in oversize cocktail glass and lures the view- Eau My Gold. September, and Indonesia in October. er with seductive snaps. To up the retail-tainment quotient and “It’s something very playful,” said Holtzmann, party spirit, Rabanne enlisted Flipo and mixolo- explaining it’s like a moment of fun. gist Gwladys Gublin to create a cocktail intend- The spot will come in numerous formats, in- ed to be a sensory iteration of the fragrance. Its cluding 20- and 30-second versions, destined ingredients include half a passion fruit and four for T V, movie theaters and online. Santiago and drops of Spanish bitters. The in-store version, Mauricio Sierra shot the print visual. however, is nonalcoholic. — J.W. Nails Inc. Expands U.S. Presence

count for 71 percent, or $25 mil- That sighting inspired NailKale, By JAYME CYK lion, of Nails Inc.’s global turn- a collection of nine shades in- over of $35 million. U.S. sales fused with the leafy green. FOR THEA GREEN, founder are $6 million and other areas, “I always look to the health and managing director of Nails like Mexico and Southeast Asia, and food trend in America,” said Inc., her line of polish and treat- account for $4 million. Business Green. “Kale lends itself well to ment is as much of a fashion in Southeast Asia is up by 46 per- our ingredients and it contains brand as it is a beauty collection. cent from last year and collec- vitamins A, C and K.” Nails Inc. is celebrating its tions are starting to roll out into Launching in August at 15th anniversary with new pack- other Asian territories. Sales in Sephora and Sephora inside J.C. aging and a number of other Mexico are up by 76 percent. Penney, NailKale, $14, also in- brand enhancements. While Green declined to cludes the NailKale Superfood With sales increasing more comment on sales figures, in- Base Coat, which contains aloe than double digits in the U.S., dustry sources estimated that vera, lemon, ginseng, pomegran- Green told WWD she is look- the Manhattan nail bar could do ate and grape, and an illumina- ing to open a stand-alone New $2 million at retail. tor called Bright Street that in- York nail bar called the Paint Nails Inc. has also signed cludes ingredients like vitamin Worxshop late this fall. Alexa Chung as its global am- E, seaweed extract and a pat- “We want to come and do bassador. She will team with the ented complex of minerals. The manis in the U.S., how we do it U.K.-based brand on a six-piece formulation is said to boost the production of keratin for harder, stronger WILL BE and healthier nails. In June, Nails Inc. entered Ulta and in July, will add Nordstrom to its list of distributors. KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE REVEALED “From the Leather Effect Nail

PHOTO BY Polish to the Gel Effect Plumping Top Nails Inc.’s NailKale collection. Coat, the brand’s range of polishes [in the U.K.],” said Green, who collection of fabric-inspired pol- and treatments offer the latest brought the brand to the U.S. in ishes ranging in textures from trends,” said Janet Taake, chief 2011. “We want the nail bar to an- cashmere to lace. merchandising officer at Ulta, chor the brand and bring it alive. Chung will continue to roll adding, “We believe the line will 06.23.14 It’s hard to do that on a shelf. ” out collaborations with Nails be of great interest to our cus- The Nails Inc. business in Inc. and will launch a holiday tomer and have high expecta- the U.K. is 50 percent service. gift set in October. tions for the brand’s growth.” Green is also looking at launch- Meanwhile, Nails Inc. will em- With more than 200 stockkeep- ing another nail bar location in bark on a technology that utilizes ing units, the full Nails Inc. lineup Hong Kong. the power of kale. When Green includes nail lacquer, priced be- According to industry sourc- visited Manhattan on holiday, tween $9.50 and $25 for nail kits, CEW.ORG es, international sales, which she was enamored by a young as well as treatment and accesso- mostly come from the U.K., ac- girl who sent back her kale salad. ries, priced between $10 and $18. 8 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 Galeries Lafayette to Open in Milan

{Continued from page one} highway that will allow customers to the mall opens in a few years. drive from the center of Milan in less “Milan is an attractive city, it has been than 20 minutes. one of the factors,” he said. “Westfield’s global strategy is to de- The French department store op- velop iconic centers in key world cities erator has opened locations in Berlin; and the inclusion of Italy’s first full-line Casablanca, Morocco; Dubai; Jakarta, Galeries Lafayette department store in Indonesia, and Beijing in recent years, and this location will be a key attraction for is plotting future units in Doha, Qatar, and consumers seeking a real point of differ- Istanbul. It has 58 locations in France, in- ence,” said Michael Gutman, managing di- cluding the Boulevard Haussmann flagship rector Europe at Westfield. “For our first here that sprawls over 648,000 square feet mall on mainland Europe, we will bring and carries 2,500 brands in fashion, food all our experience from London and other and home decoration. international centers as we believe the Asked about the performance of its for- Milan region is dramatically underserved eign units, Houzé said: “Berlin and Dubai by a quality retail and leisure attraction.” are two stores that are seeing a significant “The center is located in a key area of growth. Results are in line with our goals A rendering of Westfield Milan. Italy with an attractive domestic and tour- in Beijing. As for the Casablanca store, ist catchment for retailers,” added Antonio performances still need to improve.” retail signing for Westfield Milan and, ac- [702,000 square feet] in Milan.” He con- Percassi, chairman of Stilo Immobiliare Galeries Lafayette is increasingly adopt- cording to a Westfield spokeswoman in ceded the project is “a big gamble, but Finanziaria. “The per capita income in the ing an international view, and earlier this Australia, there is strong interest in the one that has been very much studied. region exceeds the European average by year held talks to acquire Britain’s House of project from “major international and Italy is culturally based on fashion and 35 percent and attracts over 13 million an- Fraser. Nanjing Cenbest, a Chinese depart- Italian retailers.” shopping. This will not be a regional nual tourists. We are extremely proud that ment store chain and a subsidiary of the Representing an investment of about mall, but a national shopping center.” Westfield Milan will also create thousands Chinese conglomerate Sanpower Group, 1.3 billion euros, or $1.7 billion at current He underscored that Milan’s region, of new jobs for Italy.” prevailed and acquired 89 percent of the exchange, Westfield Milan is to include a Lombardy, is the country’s richest, one Armando Branchini, deputy chairman U.K. department store group, as reported. luxury village, 50 restaurants, advanced that attracts 33 million tourists annu- of Milan-based InterCorporate consul- The wholly owned Milan unit is to digital technology, tourist and leisure ally. The executive said the project has tancy, said the project is “a big gamble,” showcase what Galeries touted as “its services — such as cinemas — as well as met with “huge interest,” and that the given the current economy, but that “the unique know-how in fashion, from acces- a parking lot accommodating 10,000 cars. group is speaking to all main luxury group likely has hopes everything will sible to luxury.” The mall has a target market of more brands. He declined to provide specific change in three or four years.” He said “It will be a true department store than 7 million consumers with a poten- names at the moment. Galeries Lafayette is a name synonymous with fashion, accessories, beauty, shoes, tial spending power of 4.9 billion euros, “We are negotiating with top brands to with expertise and that it is a brand well- etc.,” Houzé said, noting the retailer is or $6.6 billion, according to Westfield. anchor the luxury village and start active known to Italians and tourists alike, one studying if it might also incorporate food Milan has one of the highest per capita leasing,” he said, adding that youth and that will convey “a boost in reputation,” and design objects. retail spends in Europe but counts few high-street labels will also be present. and help draw customers to a mall that In entering Italy, Galeries Lafayette is major malls. Capitalizing on this potential, According to a business overview by is not positioned in the center of the city. going up against Italian department store Westfield Milan is expected to reach sales Global Blue, which offers international “It is likely that such a mall will nega- operator La Rinascente — whose Milan in excess of 1 billion euros, or $1.3 billion, tax-free shopping services for tourists, tively affect wholesalers in cities nearby, flagship spans about 250,000 square feet comparable with both Westfield London in the January to April 2014 period, top such as Bergamo or Brescia, more than of selling space and who has plans of its and Westfield Stratford City in the U.K., at spenders in Milan were shoppers from in Milan,” said Branchini. own to expand outside national borders. 1.2 billion pounds, or $1.6 billion, each. the Russian Federation, accounting for 32 The Westfield shopping center group Last year, on the heels of bids and coun- “This is an amazing project,” en- percent of the total, followed by custom- employs about 4,000 people worldwide. terbids launched to secure Printemps in thused Victor Busser Casas, general man- ers from China, representing 22 percent. It counts investments in 87 shopping France, the retailer said it was acquiring ager of Arcus Real Estate. “Imagine the Regarding the agreement with centers across Australia, the U.S., U.K. the Copenhagen-based department store Westfield project outside London — we Galeries Lafayette, Busser Casas said the and New Zealand, comprising more Illum. At the time, La Rinascente ceo want to do it bigger and better.” idea is to “bring something different and than 20,012 retail outlets and total assets Alberto Baldan said the plan was “to create Asked about the timing of the project, new to the Italian market on the highest under management of $68.3 billion. a collection of luxury stores, not a chain.” in light of the lackluster economy in Italy, end. It’s a win-win.” Stilo Immobiliare Finanziaria special- In fact, Illum is to maintain its name. Busser Casas said the group was “con- He underscored that the mall will be izes in large shopping centers and fac- Baldan said then there were plans for vinced the worst of the crisis in Italy is unique “in terms of quality, management, tory outlets. The first Stilo project with additional such ventures in the near fu- over. We are at the bottom of the cycle and design, brands and luxury. There is noth- the Percassi name was the Oriocenter, ture in other major capitals. The acquisi- we will see increments in the next months. ing of this quality, and it will show the a shopping mall opposite the airport in tion was in line with strategies mapped out The second half of the year will be better. newest, best and most modern architec- Bergamo, Italy. Arcus Real Estate devel- by La Rinascente’s owner, Thailand-based We know it’s been a difficult period, but it ture with an Italian flair.” ops high-end retail real estate projects, Central Retail Corp., which took control of is also a moment of opportunities.” Westfield Milan will be strategi- mainly in the luxury segment, and man- the Italian department store chain in May Busser Casas marveled that, despite cally positioned near the international ages a surface area of more than 2.1 mil- 2011 with plans to expand globally. Milan’s standing in fashion, “There are Linate Airport, accessible to high-speed lion square feet nationally, including the Galeries Lafayette is the first anchor no stores over 65,000 square meters railway connections, and a new planned Sicilia Outlet Village.

A sketch from Cifonelli to Launch Ready-to-Wear Collection Cifonelli’s first fall roped piece. “In fact, our entire from a cashmere-cotton blend, house brought a new “head of collection. By PAULINA SZMYDKE atelier contributed to the pro- along with the house’s signature style” on board: John Vizzone, cess,” he said, noting that the travel jacket. the former senior vice presi- PARIS — In September, Paris- rtw line would carry “many of Targeting a younger cus- dent of Ralph Lauren’s Purple based Cifonelli, whose roots the couture features of our be- tomer, aged between 25 and 40 and Black Labels, to oversee go back to 1880, will launch its spoke work.” years old with a cosmopolitan the rtw collection. Lorenzo and first ready-to-wear collection, A sharp, fitted silhouette, background, hues for spring riff Massimo Cifonelli remain cre- combining the house’s know- generous lapels and extra-high off the house’s Italian roots via ative directors. how — a mix of English, French armholes for maximum move- shades of light gray that evoke The rtw line will also feature and Italian influences — and a ment are all part of the picture. Portofino stones, along with a small range of accessories, in- flurry of newly designed pre- The suits will retail from 2,900 coral and lavender contrasted cluding shoes made in Italy and measured cuts. euros, or $3,947 at current ex- with deep blues and ice white leather goods such as a week- “My cousin and I have been change, to 3,900 euros, or $5,308. harkening back to Capri’s col- ender and a portfolio, hand- creating bespoke for the past 20 Cifonelli said a “quest for orful landscape. Exclusive col- crafted in mostly Spanish work- years, and we want to give new excellence in the cut and fit laborations with Japanese and shops. For this task, Cifonelli impetus to our house,” Lorenzo has been favored over seeking Tibetan textile makers are ex- tapped accessories designer Cifonelli, who runs the family- a specific fashion standpoint. pected to enrich the collection. Eric Gallais, previously with owned workshop with his cous- We have no intention of ever To oversee the house’s new Loewe and Yves Saint Laurent. in Massimo as part of the fourth becoming a brand, but to stay strategy, the Cifonellis hired The new line, which the mas- generation, told WWD. But he a family with a passion for the a team of nine executives ter tailor is slated to reveal in a said: “Our aim is not to copy product and its quality.” and consultants coming from private presentation at its be- other fashion brands, it’s to give The spring collection’s 16 Ermenegildo Zegna, Yves spoke atelier on June 28 to co- a new, more modern vision to looks, which will be shown Saint Laurent, Loewe and incide with Paris Fashion Week, our savoir faire.” alongside a fall lineup for im- Inditex to lend their commer- will initially be available in the Cifonelli said he spent six mediate sale, will feature three- cial and creative experience two Cifonelli-owned stores — to ensure exclusivity, the whole- months researching the right piece suits with double-breast- to the company. on Rue Marbeuf and another sale accounts could grow to craftsmen and personally taught ed vests, which, according to Backed by two anonymous Parisian location due to open by a maximum number of in the a small Italian factory how to Cifonelli, are seeing a come- French family funds, which ac- year-end — as well as no more long-term, while the store count construct the “Cifonelli shoul- back, as well as some casual cording to Cifonelli provided than 10 wholesale partners. is ultimately expected to in- der,” a distinct, inward, slightly pieces including jeans made “substantial investment,” the Cifonelli said that, in order crease to 10.

WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 9 WWD.COM Neiman’s Posts Q3’’ Net Loss, Comp-Sales Gain

{Continued from page one} Chicago, and Bal Harbour, Fla., stores. that way for the last 12 to 18 months. the criminal cyber attack during the last Neiman’s might invest on Manhattan’s Customers are definitely buying very ex- holiday season that breached Neiman’s West Side, where it is negotiating with pensive items if they have a ‘wow’ factor payment systems, and $15 million in Hudson’s Yard to possibly open a full- or some intrinsic value,” such as exotic markdowns from a clearance sale that line store there. The retailer remains skins, she said. “If there is something to happened in the third quarter this year mum on the subject, though one insider the item that makes it very luxurious or due to a calendar shift, instead of its said, “Anything can happen.” fashionable, they’re not hesitating. At the usual placement in the fourth. Typically, Looking ahead, Katz told WWD there same time, a number of businesses con- Neiman’s first and third quarters are are signs that fall luxury selling is off to tinue to perform well at opening price predominantly full-price periods, while a good start but that it’s too soon to make points, found a pretty good balance of the second and fourth are mainly mark- what we are selling.” down periods. Neiman’s total revenues were $1.16 bil- Neiman’s was also impacted by the lion compared to $1.1 billion in the prior weather, like the rest of the retail industry. We felt really good year. Earnings before interest, taxes, de- With greater resources being allo- preciation and amortization for the third cated for “highly productive stores in about our sales quarter were $149.1 million compared gateway cities,” as Katz said, the Dallas- to $196 million in last year’s quarter. based NMG has a big capital expenditure increases…It feels Adjusted EBITDA was $188.1 million com- budget, seen at $165 million to $175 mil- pared to $206.6 million a year ago. lion for fiscal 2014, including store, new Stores had a 4.2 percent comp in- technology and omnichannel initiatives. like our customer crease in sales last quarter, led by units That compares to $147 million last year. in the West and Texas. Store upgrades are justified considering is out shopping. The best-selling categories were how productive Neiman’s stores are, gen- shoes, designer handbags and men’s. erating $575 in sales per square foot last — KAREN KATZ, NEIMAN Online sales rose 11.7 percent and year, compared to $545 the year before. MARCUS GROUP LTD. LLC were led by women’s shoes, handbags In other projects, Neiman Marcus in and beauty. While the stores were down, Beverly Hills will bring its beauty floor Katz said “there is no actual data to indi- down to the lower level, enabling an a fuller judgment. She singled out fall cate a shift from customers shopping in- expansion of accessories and jewelry shoes as being an early strong performer store to online. Intuitively, you would be- on the main floor, as part of a top-to- and added that overall “deliveries have lieve it. But the number of those shifting bottom overhaul of that location. Gifts been good.” Ye t traffic in the stores is their shopping online is very, very low. and children’s on the lower level will running down slightly, Katz said, marking There is nothing to indicate a big shift, at be removed while the restaurant re- a continuation of the kind of trends seen least with our customers.” Bergdorf’s is planning to add a “lab” for mains and gets remodeled. Years ago, over the last year. During the call, Katz emphasized ini- emerging designers on its sixth floor. Bergdorf ’s raised eyebrows when it re- Neiman’s reported a 5.9 percent com- tiatives on the omni front, in addition to located its beauty business to the lower parable-sales gain for the quarter ended brick and mortar. “Customers no longer Gold. “I have been with Neiman Marcus level. Subsequently, Barneys New York May 3 despite the tough retail climate differentiate between the channels,” Katz for 29 years and this is the biggest orga- on Madison Avenue did the same. which has been dragging’’ down most re- said. “We have been relentless in our pur- nizational change we made in all those Other Neiman Marcus renovations tailers. “We felt really good about our suit of a seamless shopping experience.” years. It allows us to grow both channels and remodels are set for the Palo Alto, sales increases, especially relative to the As reported in April, NMG merged at a faster pace.…Now we can develop Calif., and Oak Brook, Ill., units, follow- market. It feels like our customer is out its stores and online merchandising and one perspective that is consistent across ing recent redos at the Michigan Avenue, shopping,” Katz told WWD. “It has been planning teams into one team, led by Jim channels,” said Katz.

De Cesare acknowledged department store bills itself as a Printemps windows that crystal and tableware high-end fashion destination. showcasing have weathered a tough period “I wanted to put Baccarat Baccarat crystal. since the late Nineties, as ca- back into the modern environ- sual lifestyles and a dwindling ment,” she said. “I want to cre- wedding-list business dented ate that glamorous connection.” demand. However, the tables Among limited-edition prod- turned over the past four years ucts developed for Printemps as a new generation of local and is a printed silk scarf festooned foreign consumers has started with engraving patterns from the buying luxury home objects Baccarat archives, which “might for themselves, with de Cesare become another area of the busi- citing single purchases in the ness,” Riccardi noted. range of 10,000 to 30,000 euros, De Cesare said Printemps or $13,610 to $40,840 at current has carried Baccarat for most exchange. It dovetails with a of its 149-year history, show- “huge” trend toward “food and ing an 1884 catalogue touting a luxury food,” he added. set of crystal toiletry decanters Pointing to a display of tall priced at 12.75 French francs. Baccarat vases, he said: “If Its limited-edition items, all in- you think one is the cost of a corporating red crystal, range bag that lasts maybe two sea- from 75 euros, or $103, for a Baccarat Takes Over Printemps Windows sons, here you have the savoir- key chain up to 61,200 euros, or faire of 250 years,” he said. $83,310, for a chandelier with seumlike displays of Baccarat’s sure in its fashion building for “Customers are returning to au- deer heads. By MILES SOCHA history — and a range of crystal jewelry and accessories. thenticity, to quality.” items exclusive to the French “We felt that [Baccarat] has “Luxury with a story at- PARIS — Printemps, the retailer — are dis- an amazing story, and tached,” Riccardi added. French department store fa- played in high-traf- more importantly, an The transporting windows mous for large-scale partner- fic passageways. amazing future, so we depict dinner tables in settings ships with fashion brands like While luxury wanted to be a part evoking Asia, Russia, Brazil or Dior and Prada, has given over homewares rep- of its celebrations,” Arabia, the latter featuring a its windows, central atrium and resent perhaps 3 de Cesare said. sand dune, a stuffed falcon and even a pop-up Alain Ducasse to 4 percent of the The executive a sprinkling of fashion accesso- café to crystal-maker Baccarat, French retailer’s argued that educat- ries. This “takes the brand out which is marking its 250th an- total business, they ing and delighting of its environment,” de Cesare niversary this year. now account for shoppers about life- explained, something “only a The invasion, which runs more than 20 per- style trends and rare department store can do, to ex- through Aug. 23, trumpets the cent of its total home savoir-faire helps pand the brand outside its natu- two companies’ belief that high- business, and that “build a long-term ral language.” end table and homewares are number is rising. relationship with our The Printemps tie-up is on the rebound as consumers Baccarat has a customers.” They in- among a slew of anniversary fes- return to entertaining and dis- shop-in-shop on clude streams of elite tivities for Baccarat, which will cover what Baccarat chief ex- the second floor of Chinese tourists, who culminate with an exhibition at ecutive officer Daniela Riccardi Printemps’ home store are increasingly enam- the Petit Palais museum here in calls “shared luxury.” amid a clutch of high- ored with French wines mid-October. “It’s an area where we are end home brands — in- and are gravitating to- Riccardi, who joined Baccarat investing,” Printemps chair- cluding Saint-Louis, ward Baccarat’s glasses last year from Diesel, said the man and ceo Paolo de Cesare Hermès and designed for Printemps showcase offers a said, leading a tour of the re- Lalique — A crystal vase exclusive to the store specific va- “window to the world,” given The central atrium, which is used for tailer’s sprawling Boulevard and a main that French President François Hollande rieties like that Paris attracts tourists from rotating brand spotlights, includes a Haussmann flagship, where mu- floor expo- offered to First Lady Michelle Obama. Bordeaux. all over the world, and that the Baccarat café by Alain Ducasse. 10 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014

Atlanta de Karen Elson in Jason Wu and the designer Adriana Lima Cadenet in with Elizabeth Gilpin and Hilary Rhoda. in Jason Wu. Jason Wu.

They Like picture up for auction, a topless portrait, said, “This is clearly the best one.” How did Shining’s own compare with all the other Big Bucks callipygian goods? “Mine would be a negative-2 compared to Eian’s,” he said, misunderstanding the question. “WIENER SHADOW!” they giggled like school girls. So Shining shot the photograph That was the line Stewart did everyone else who passed in Los Angeles in March when Shining used on everyone who by. This was a fund-raiser for the model was coincidentally in dropped by to check out a an AIDS research organization, town. Estimated value: $2,000. Sofía Sanchez colorful portrait of his up for so everyone was looking for Eventually, it sold for $3,500. Stewart Barrenechea auction at the The Young Friends those moments of levity. ACRIA’s Overall, the charity raised some Shining in Jason Wu. of ACRIA summer dinner photography auctions always big bucks in one night, $300,000. Wednesday night in New York. feature provocative images, and Shining, who has been In the image, a young at this one in particular ACRIA’s board president for five people in mind when he man standing with his there was lots of skin on years, recently saw the AIDS decided to start hosting the prodigious back to the view — Inez van Lamsweerde drama “The Normal Heart,” summer dinner last year. camera just happens to eye and Vinoodh Matadin which chronicles the onset of “I wanted to become more be casting against a wall donated a full-body the epidemic in New York City, involved and I wanted to get a certain, well, “wiener nude, their “Guinevere and it struck him that the movie people of my generation more shadow,” as Shining so Descending a Staircase.” and the organization serve a involved,” he said. eloquently put it. Vogue’s Hamish Bowles wore only similar mission. The designer, who himself “This is a dear friend of a corset in a 1993 portrait by “There’s a whole generation was eyeing some of the pieces mine. His name is Eian Scully, Steven Meisel. Giampaolo Sgura shot that ACRIA tries to serve and up for auction — the Meisel and and I was pointing out the a young model looking out of a address that does not know the Inez and Vinoodh — had just photograph of his, um, junk, window at The Standard with a world without AIDS, so for presented his Hugo Boss resort Jaime is I think what the young nothing on but weights at her them to be informed of what collection the day before. But kids call it these days,” the hips and a pair of high heels. those days were like, I think he was to fly back to Germany

King in STEVE EICHNER Jason photographer elaborated. Pointing to Shining’s it’s an incredibly important on Thursday. What was he doing Wu. When Adriana Lima and Karen portrait, the photographer historical piece, too,” he said. with the rest of his summer? — ERIK MAZA PHOTOS BY Elson finally noticed the detail, Jack Pierson, who had his own Jason Wu also had young “Spring.”

network that’s more powerful in Television. “I’m just sad that than an individual. I applaud all of the honorees have to be at Women in Film — not only their own tables.” Still, Coming Up Roses for celebrating the successes the “Scandal” star FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE of women, but for providing found herself in good “IT’S REALLY nerve-racking. creation. “I have to get fitted for a safety network to mentor company — seated WWD.com/eye. I’m not even one to throw a everything because I’m short,” women and to discuss the next to her husband birthday party,” Rose Byrne she said. Krysten Ritter was particular issues that arise in a Nnamdi Asomugha. giggled on Tuesday night, beside the young actress: “Did very male-dominated industry.” During their rare public surveying the scene at Chateau you get taller?” Zehetner asked, Washington — who made her appearance together, Asomugha Marmont where a gaggle of noting Ritter’s towering stature. first public appearance since kept close to his wife and her best Hollywood gal pals “Everyone says that,” Ritter giving birth to daughter Isabelle clapped proudly as producer had gathered to toast the replied. “I’m wearing seven weeks ago — said she Rhimes sang her praises. “I’m actress. She was receiving heels, so I’m like six feet was in awe of her peers. “It’s out in public,” said Washington the Women in Film Max tall. I’m like a dude.” surreal to be honored alongside as she took a deep breath and Erin Mara Face of the Future The following night, Cate Blanchett for anything,” accepted the award. — JENNY SUNDEL AND Wasson in Award the following many of the same faces she gushed, before receiving Sportmax. evening at the Crystal — Tracee Ellis Ross, Byrne, the Lucy Award for Excellence LINDZI SCHARF + Lucy Awards, also Longoria, etc. — turned sponsored by the luxury up at the Hyatt Regency brand, and the Chateau Century Plaza to walk Cate Marmont fete, hosted by the award show’s black Blanchett Nicole Maramotti, served carpet. “I’m insanely in Chloé. as a precursor. nervous because I’m in “She’s just a funny, a room with my genuine excellent human heroines,” Cate Blanchett said being,” fellow Aussie shortly after arriving. Much Bella Heathcote said like the previous evening, of Byrne, whom the event pulsed with girl she counts as one power as Blanchett joined of her first “really fellow honorees Kerry good friends” in Los Washington, Byrne, Longoria Angeles. The room was and “Frozen” director brimming with fellow Jennifer Lee; host Ellis Ross, “really good friends” of and presenters Kristen Bell, Byrne’s — Eva Longoria, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Laura Dern, Christina Hendricks, Shonda Rhimes and Lake Bell. Jordana Brewster, Sophia “It’s an extraordinary Bush, Nora Zehetner and network of people,” continued Erin Wasson to name Rose Blanchett. “I don’t live in a few. While most of Byrne Los Angeles, so this is a them stuck to the Max in Max singular pleasure for me. Mara dress code, Mara at Everyone is incredibly Kerry AMY GRAVES Jordana Zehetner wore a the Hyatt busy, but there are so many Washington in Brewster in cropped two-piece Regency. people here tonight because Max Mara. Max Mara.

Eliza Faulkner they believe it’s often a PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2014 11 WWD.COM

run by fashion industry veterans Ali Kavoussi, Reed and Alison Embrey Medina, executive Christiana Tran, Louie Chaban and Madisyn Ritland, editor of Design:Retail magazine, which has already signed Anne Vyalitsyna, Irina partnered with Saks for the event. FASHION SCOOPS Shayk, Agyness Deyn, Karen Elson and Cameron “My name is on a Saks window,” Russell among its 30-strong roster. An said winner Meredith Christensen Jennings, example of a multitasking model, Russell who worked with Linda Gjolaj to create SHOE TIMES: A new Italian Pinco Pallino at Pitti Bimbo to celebrate not only fronted French Vogue recently a spectacle of double-height white design collaboration is the return of the brand on Pitti’s catwalk. but also gave a Ted Talk explaining to fringe and a fringe canopy to set off the launching this month On June 26, the company will showcase young girls why looks aren’t everything. clothes. “We knew from the get-go what — Versace’s Versus and its spring 2015 collection with a “It’s about going outside of the box we wanted to do. We bartered with other Superga. The two brands runway show in Florence during of the normal way of managing a girl,” people to get the right materials.” have partnered on a colorful the children’s wear trade show. said Kavoussi, who previously logged “One of the things about a great new collection of shoes, The Italian company will also seven years as an agent at Women. “Our window is it doesn’t have to mean labeled Superga x Versus launch a new “daily” collection: girls’ modeling careers give us the fuel anything,” said Reed, surveying the work. Versace and starting with a Identified with a green label, to develop their authentic brand and to — SHARON EDELSON special edition of the classic it has the romantic inspiration be able to go out and do a Superga 2750 style in one of of I Pinco Pallino style with jewelry or lingerie line. FRENCH LESSONS: When the key motifs from Versus’ maxi bows, floral prints, denim Or some of our models are Alain-Charles Perrot was fall collection. The shoe is embroidered with beads musicians.” — SARAH TOOKER inducted into the French marked by clashing colors, and children portraits, but Académie des Beaux- WINDOW DRESSING: baroque visuals and the The new elaborated in fabrics and fit of Saks Arts this week, he did

— ALESSIA BANI LANVIN Greek key, and comes in Superga x everyday usage. Fifth Avenue’s 49th Street so wearing Lanvin. The cotton with a vulcanized Versus Versace windows look fashion house created a BRANDING BEAUTIES: FOR MORE natural rubber sole. The collaboration. professional, but version of the academician signature Superga label is in With their legions SCOOPS, SEE they’re the work uniform just for him: a its usual spot on the side of the shoe, while of followers on Twitter and of students. Six shirt, trousers and jacket the Versus logo is at the heel. The pieces Instagram, beauty lines and WWD.com. teams studying BORT/COPYRIGHT embroidered with an olive are available starting this month in select even cookie recipes, models merchandising The Lanvin outfit for branch. The embroidery Versace’s Versus boutiques, Superga stores like Coco Rocha, Cindy Crawford display from JAMES itself required 600 hours BY French academician and at shop.versace.com and superga.com. and Karlie Kloss have proven that the the Fashion Institute Alain-Charles Perrot. of work.

— MARC KARIMZADEH modeling world has grown to represent of Technology and the PHOTO Perrot is the architect more than just a collection of pretty Laboratory Institute of in chief of the French SIGNING ON: Italian luxury children’s faces. In keeping up with the times, The Merchandising competed for bragging Historical Monuments, whose works wear manufacturer I Pinco Pallino has Lion’s Brand, a New York-based talent rights for best window design. include the renovation of the Opéra appointed Julia Restoin Roitfeld as new management company, has relaunched First-place winners received a one- Garnier and the Château de Versailles. global brand ambassador. with a new digital platform, designed by day mentorship with the Saks visual He is currently involved in the renovation The daughter of former Vogue France Steven Meisel Studio, that promotes the display team, watching and assisting of the Hôtel Lutetia and the Ritz. editor in chief Carine Roitfeld will join I individuality of each model. Lion’s Brand, in the making and breakdown of store Lanvin is thus renewing a 113-year-old windows. The groups had several hours tradition of designing bespoke clothing fit to complete their installations, which for the “Immortals” of the elite institution. with another 250,000 copies distributed were made with materials donated by the In 1901, Jeanne Lanvin designed clothes there, where it sells for $7 an issue. store’s suppliers. The only caveats: all the for her first academician customer, the MEMO PAD His model predates that of print props and fixtures had to be white and famous writer and playwright Edmond magazines by many other e-tailers, such windows had to feature contemporary Rostand, author of “Cyrano de Bergerac.” CATCHING UP WITH JASON: Before you even as Net-a-porter, and allows DuJour to fashion from the store’s fifth floor. Others then followed such as Paul Valéry, see the founder and publisher of DuJour use consumer data for localized digital The contest was judged by Saks’ vice Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí. magazine, Jason Binn, you’ve likely heard advertising. This makes ads shoppable president of visual merchandising Matt — LAURE GUILBAULT his voice. and targeted based on prior purchases Booming and loud, his words tumble of Gilt consumers. out, vigorously at an uneven clip, leaving While he would not disclose revenues, fragmented thoughts and sometimes Binn said about 30 percent of the magazine’s unfinished sentences. That quirk, combined business comes from digital revenue. with his seemingly endless energy, habit “Everything in the magazine is of casual name-dropping of his plethora shoppable,” he emphasized, “even the of rich and powerful acquaintances and fashion spreads.” his references to his personal Instagram DuJour said its quarterly group account, which is stocked with guileless package ad rates, which include print selfies with celebrities, and it’s easy to and digital, total $65,000 a page net. dismiss the publisher as a mere party guy. It is also in the process of an audit by Over time, it becomes apparent that BPA for the distribution of the 250,000 there’s more to Binn, as those incomplete print and two million digital circulation. thoughts are slowly pieced together to “Newsstand is more for our image,” Binn form a larger narrative. It said, offering: “I’d like to begins with Binn’s talent print more but 50 percent to connect with just about of our overhead is from anyone — all to serve the printing and production.” cause of his magazine. His ability to become Two big news breaks a connector has lured — he sometimes dips into in talent like Inez van reporting — in which Binn Lamsweerde and Vinoodh got disgraced Los Angeles Matadin, who shot DuJour’s top Clippers owner Don Sterling latest cover of Sylvester on the record admitting he Stallone, as well as Patrick wished he paid off his ex- Demarchelier, among others. 10 0 girlfriend, as well as Dennis And costs aside, when asked Rodman talking about North if all the digital advertising Korea, got him media and fancy shoppable attention as well as a spot DuJour’s summer 2014 Issue technology detracts from on CNN with Wolf Blitzer featuring Sylvester Stallone. the editorial objectivity of talking about his scoops. the magazine, Binn quickly Both drove traffic to DuJour’s Web site, underscored the importance of reporting. which is as integral to Binn’s project as “Our editorial team is big and growing. It’s the quarterly glossy magazine. 30 to 40 people,” he said, flipping through While Binn is still seen by many the fall 2013 issue, featuring a profile on as the hustling never-stop-selling-ads Kim Kardashian. “Everything’s got layers.” founder of Niche Media — which he Looking at the black-and-white built to encompass Hamptons, Ocean spread, which depicted a Gauguin- Drive, Gotham and more by shamelessly esque Kardashian — shot by Bruce Weber focusing on wealthy local residents eager — Binn stopped at the profile on the to see their photos in the magazines — reality star, who has become a friend. he long ago sold that and reinvented (Binn was at Kardashian’s wedding to himself as a hustling never-stop-selling- Kanye West, and he even snapped a few ads digital maven by linking up with Kevin selfies with Kris Jenner in a plane to the THE BEST IN BEAUTY Ryan, founder of Gilt Groupe, first as an wedding in Paris from Florence). Advertise among the industry’s most infl uential brands and leading power players adviser and then by getting Ryan and “It’s got a bite to it,” Binn insisted, Gilt to invest in DuJour. That took care thumbing through the Kardashian CLOSE DATE: 7/18 ISSUE DATE: 8/8 | BONUS DISTRIBUTION: TFWA CANNES of the online part of DuJour and gave profile to the next feature. it an immediate readership since the “It’s like a mini-Madoff story,” he magazine goes to Gilt’s top two million said, sounding rather editorlike, before clients. Binn then convinced Hudson pausing. “Whoever thought I’d go back News and its parent Dufry to invest as into magazines. I never thought I’d go FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: [email protected], 212.630.3778 well, giving him instant newsstand reach back into print.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD The agency that makes us smile.

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Source: AC Nielsen period ending 4/12/2014, XAOC.