CHILLING WITH COCO: OFF DUTY WITH A CATWALK QUEEN HOT FLASH INSIDE THE INSULAR WORLD OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY FRESH! SPRING’S MOST DIRECTIONAL HAIR AND MAKEUP TRENDS STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNWAY

TOP MODEL COCO ROCHA Charlize Theron

AVAILABLE AT MACY’S WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS

21 30 42 THIS MONTH: KEY BEAUTY TRENDS FOR SPRING ’09, STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNWAY, PLUS INSIDE THE WORLD OF ELITE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE 14 MOST SOUGHT-AFTER HAIRSTYLISTS AND MAKEUP ARTISTS.

8 PEOPLE, PLACES & LIPSTICKS 21 SPRING 2009: 34 COCO IN MOTION Hair crosses the threshold from head flair to THE BEAUTY REPORT Coco Rocha, the outdoor-loving, Irish-dancing bodywear, scent cocktails lift spirits and a bright Ready, set, spring! From stick-straight hair to glam supermodel, proves the most beautiful thing a idea from a society makeup artist and hairstylist. Goth eyes, a first look at key hair and makeup woman can be is herself. trends for spring, straight from the runways of New 12 WHAT’S IN STORE York, London, Milan and Paris. 40 DOCTOR DOLCE VITA This month’s key launches include scents that Milan-based dermatologist to the fashion evoke memories and protective skin care to brave 28 FOLLOW THE LEADERS cognoscenti, Bruno Mandalari keeps his elite the elements. When it comes to beauty, what happens on the clientele molto bellissimo with cutting-edge runway sets the stage for what sells at retail. Here, skin-saving techniques. 16 WORLD WIDE WATCH: INDIA meet the 14 most influential hairstylists and makeup Despite the global economic slowdown, India’s artists responsible for creating the trends each season. 42 LA GRANDE DAME middle class continues to grow. While that’s good The ultraglamorous Dame Edna Everage teams up news for beauty brands looking to increase sales 30 HOT SHOTS with MAC for a bold new makeup line every bit as and awareness in this vast country, overregulation A small handful of photographers help form our vivacious and colorful as she is. and an aging infrastructure present serious hurdles. prevailing notions of beauty by lensing the most cutting-edge editorial and advertising campaigns. WWD Beauty Biz takes an inside look at their exclusive world.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription ON THE COVER FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 196, NO. 103, Nov. will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production cor- Coco Rocha photographed for 14, 2008. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one respondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint WWD Beauty Biz by Guy Aroch. additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To Makeup by Angie Parker for and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, Dior/angieparker.com; hair is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that by Bok-Hee for TRESemmé; 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please manicure by Tatyana Molot; Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR styled by Priscilla Polley; set Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, styling by Stephen Caputo at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, Michele Filomeno; produced Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING by Heather Robbins at Photo Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT Department. Blouse by Givenchy. ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 3 MASTHEAD

A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY ADVERTISING PRODUCTION JENNY B. FINE EDITOR CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE PUBLISHER GENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, ED HECHT ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR DEBRA GOLDBERG ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, BEAUTY CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ELIZABETH DETMER BEAUTY DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET AHMED PRUITT PRODUCTION COORDINATOR BEAUTY EDITOR RON TROXELL WEST COAST DIRECTOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS CIRCULATION MATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR MICHELE SUTTON EXECUTIVE BEAUTY ASSISTANT AP DUFFY CIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR MICHELLE EDGAR ASSOCIATE BEAUTY RICHARD CHERICHELLA BUSINESS DIRECTOR, RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITOR FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP JOHN CROSS FULFILLMENT DIRECTOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR KAREN CHIU BUSINESS MANAGER, JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP VIVIAN DONATH EDITORIAL INTERN JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD DANIEL LAGANI PRESIDENT, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP LISA KELLY SENIOR COPY EDITOR COLLEEN COMPSTON EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE PRESIDENT CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI, BRID COSTELLO AND NINA MARKETING/PROMOTION JONES (LONDON), STEPHANIE EPIRO (MILAN), MILES JODI MARCHISOTTA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING SOCHA (PARIS), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN DANIELLE MCMURRAY CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR (LOS ANGELES), KATHERINE BOWERS (BOSTON), EVENTS MANAGER MELISSA DRIER (BERLIN), GEORGIA LEE (ATLANTA), KATIE MCKENNA BRAND DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR HOLLY HABER AND RUSTY WILLIAMSON (DALLAS), JAIME HOLLANDER SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER KOJI HIRANO (TOKYO) BRIDGIT KEARNS MARKETING MANAGER KATHLEEN CALLAHAN CLASSIFIED MARKETING MANAGER ART HILLARY TOWNSEND ONLINE MARKETING MANAGER DANILO MATZ ART DIRECTOR TING WANG PROMOTION MANAGER ANITA BETHEL PHOTO AND IMAGING DIRECTOR BENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR MARK RAMEL DESIGN MANAGER DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CARA CLINTON PROMOTIONS EDITOR JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, JULIE GU MARKETING COORDINATOR STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, STEPHANIE BROWN PROMOTIONS ASSISTANT ROBERT MITRA

4 WWD BEAUTY BIZ Shown: Red-y to Wear © Clinique Laboratories, LLC High colour,on comfort. on long Protect from UVA /UVB, too. Have it all. all. it Have too. clinique.com /UVB, UVA from Protect minute.every In 20 highlymoisturizing shades that continually smooth, soften, comfort. New HighImpact ™ LipColourSPF 15 wears beautifully for 8hours. lipsenjoy And EDITOR’S LETTER

Fashion shows are, by nature, a celebration away much of the world’s wealth? And what role of unfettered creativity mixed in with a dash of beauty, a category conventional wisdom considers commercial viability. But the spring 2009 season was recession proof? SURVIVAL different—the global economy was in free fall during Whether it remains so is a different matter, but the the collections, imparting the proceedings with an air world’s top hairstylists and makeup artists are certainly of surreality. As we were putting together this issue, doing their part to help boost the industry. At many our annual look at the interconnection between the shows, rather than being constrained creatively by the MODE fashion and beauty worlds, we asked, how relevant dire goings-on, they unleashed their imaginations is high fashion when a fi nancial tsunami is washing in a riot of color, shape and texture, resulting in a season full of strong hair and makeup trends. We’ve collated the most directional runway looks from the New York, London, Milan and Paris collections into “The Beauty Report,” starting on page 21, followed by a roundup of the 14 most infl uential artists who are largely responsible for originating them in “The Creative Coalition” on page 28. Another very small but powerful group that has an oversize impact on the prevailing notions of beauty are fashion photographers. In “Hot Shots” on page 30, Molly Prior peels back the curtains on this insular world, with a look at who the most infl uential photographers are, how the world of high-stakes editorial and advertising shoots works and what the perks of power are (to wit: a day rate of between $70,000 to $130,000 is not uncommon).

AT MANY SHOWS, RATHER THAN BEING CONSTRAINED BY THE ECONOMIC GOINGS-ON, HAIR STYLISTS AND MAKEUP ARTISTS UNLEASHED THEIR IMAGINATIONS IN A RIOT OF COLOR, SHAPE AND TEXTURE.

Though each of the top photographers has a different style, one thing they no doubt share in common is the desire to get WWD Beauty Biz cover model Coco Rocha in front of their cameras. As Rocha says in “Coco in Motion” on page 34: “Don’t book me if you want plain Jane!” Her oversize personality—this is a woman known to dance down the runway—has won her kudos from both the fashion and beauty worlds, placing her fi rmly in an elite group of models who deliver bankable results. And, as the economy’s tumultuous times continue, we could all use a sure bet. —JENNY B. FINE PHOTO BY BLAINE FRANGER BLAINE BY PHOTO

6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ saks fi fth avenue www.verawang.com bloomingdale’s nordstrom © 2008 Coty US LLC/VERA WANG™ owned by V.E.W., Ltd. owned by V.E.W., © 2008 Coty US LLC/VERA WANG™ People, Places & Lipsticks FIONA PHOTO BY GILLIAN HARO; RUNWAYGIANNONI BY GIOVANNI

Michelle Fiona backstage at Catherine Holstein…

…and one of the finished MAKING THE CUT lookslooks onon thethe runway.runway. MORE AND MORE YOUNG Any one of a dozen personality types can be found creating embellished frocks. To compliment them, she wanted to FEMALE STYLISTS ARE hairstyles backstage during fashion week. There’s the too- create disheveled hair to impart a realistic edge. The fi nished STARTING TO BREAK INTO busy-for-you stylist, who can’t spare a moment to talk about look had a center part with soft-looking locks, “like they just THE RANKS OF ELITE HAIR- a trend. There’s the overly descriptive stylist, who gives so got off a bicycle,” Fiona says, “wearing pretty clothes.” DRESSING. HERE, MEET ONE many points of reference that one ends up confused. Then Howard McLaren, vice president and senior artistic OF FASHION WEEK’S BRIGHT there’s someone like Michelle Fiona, one of Bumble and director for Bumble, says Fiona’s unfl appable, professional YOUNG STARS. bumble’s rising stars, who, in 3-inch heels, can maneuver demeanor is what makes her so in-demand. “Michelle has from one head to another, all while wearing a smile, cracking a distinct style and vision, but she’s also a great collaborator jojokes and betraying not the barest hint of nerves. and listener,” he says. Her entry into the frenetic world of hairstyling mirrors her Fiona is also proof that, in a recent turn, Bumble is pepersonality: easy and breezy, lucky and adaptable. Perhaps churning out a crew of talented female stylists in an industry ththat’s why, at only 31, she’s become the go-to stylist for many that is largely dominated by male superstars. Bumble’s own MManhattan hipsters, such as Zooey Deschanel and Sara Jimmy Paul, Dennis Lanni and Laurent Philippon usually SSophieo Flicker, and just wrapped keying her fi rst show— receive the crux of oohs and ahhs backstage, but a fresh crop CCatherine Holstein—during New York Fashion Week. of names is emerging, including Fiona, Sabrina Michals TThough well on her way to being a big-shot hairstylist in and Ramona, who goes by one name only. According to a ththe fashion world, Fiona has no problems staying grounded. Bumble spokesperson, for spring 2009, 14 of Bumble’s 37 “I don’t want to get a big head. Whatever comes my way fashion week shows, or 37 percent, were keyed by women, iiss cool,” she says, after the frenzy of fashion week has died compared with the prior season, when just six Bumble dodown. Looking back, she says the whole process—from being shows, or 17 percent, were. Much of the credit toward the papaired with Holstein to coming up with a style to translating new focus on women is attributed to McLaren, who serves heher vision to the Bumble team—went very smoothly. “I never as the fi rm’s mentor for raw talent and is its driving creative geget nervous because I just like what I do. People are nice and force. “What makes female hairdressers great is that their iit’st’ a group effort. You see the clothes and makeup and then skill set is infused with intuition. Many have an ability to yoyou get into the creative process,” she says. fi lter a client’s/designer’s/photographer’s vision through At Holstein, Fiona was inspired by the designer’s their own unique fi lter. Who wouldn’t want to work with ulultrafeminine designs, such as her lace jumpers and someone who can do that?” he asks. —ANDREA NAGEL 8 WWDWWD BEAUTYBEAUTY BIBIZZ ’tis the season to... GIFT PRETTY Beauty experts in every store. Gorgeous gift wrapping—for free. New exclusives for everyone on your list! People, Places & Lipsticks HAIR APPARENT The Paris collections were downright hair raising as wigs became clothes. Martin Margiela transformed glossy, blonde locks into a swishing jacket and turned shapely, brunette coifs into strong shoulder pads. At Sonia Rykiel’s 40th anniversary show, where every model sported an imitation of the designer’s signature frizz, tributes included a dress with Rykiel’s face peering out beneath fake tresses, while another look took its inspiration from her red mane and multiplied it into a voluminous coat. “In fake hair, there’s this kind of very bizarre surrealism,” says Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, whose runway bride was hidden under a veil of platinum blonde wigs. Created with hairdresser Peter Gray, the pieces had to be shipped to London to be combed before appearing on the catwalk. Exaggerated Marie Antoinette updos ruled the runway at Comme des Garçons and Jeremy Scott. “When things get dismal and gloomy, that’s all the more reason to dress up and put on more makeup and make your hair bigger, to have a little fun where we can still have it,” says Scott. Indeed, backstage at John Galliano, makeup artists, hairstylists and photographers had bushels of fun as they battled for space amid bouffant wigs, oversize bonnets and giant cotton-candy clouds of curls created by hairstylist Julien d’Ys. D’Ys also supplemented tresses at Yves Saint Laurent with hair extensions that were custom-dyed in Japan to match each outfi t. —ELLEN GROVES

Jeremy Scott Martin Margiela Sonia Rykiel

John Galliano

ANAIS ON THE ROCKS Talk about a drink with a twist: Inspired by the molecular cooking movement, Dario Comini dreamt up “Scent” cocktails as a way for his SAKIS LAKIS customers to sample their favorite fragrances in a new way. At his eclectic Milanese bar, Comme des Jean-Charles de Nottingham Forest, Comini pours a concoction Garçons Castelbajac of liquor, spices and juices—often using notes of a particular fragrance—into a white glass goblet, and serves it with a few spritzes of the same scent. Comini claims the goblet’s form PUTTING ON AIRS allows the cocktail to mix with the fragrance’s vapors for a multisensorial experience. “Taste SCENT IS KEY TO CREATING A GREAT MOOD, BELIEVES ALEXA RODULFO, THE is 60 percent infl uenced by smell,” he says. “If GO-TO HAIRSTYLIST AND MAKEUP ARTIST FOR MANHATTAN’S you put a peg on your nose and tasted a slice SOCIAL SET. SO IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT SHE OPTED FOR of apple and potato, you won’t be able to tell SCENTED CANDLES RATHER THAN LIP GLOSS FOR HER them apart.” This winter, Nottingham Forest’s FIRST FORAY INTO BEAUTY BRANDING. “I WANTED menu carries three “Scent” cocktails inspired by best-selling fragrances: Anaïs Anaïs by TO CREATE A GREAT AMBIANCE,” SAYS RODULFO, Cacharel, a favorite of female customers, is WHO COUNTS IVANKA TRUMP, CAROLINA HERRERA made with a fl ower-based liqueur. Sicily by AND TINSLEY MORTIMER AS CLIENTS. HER DEBUT Dolce & Gabbana (the drink) features lime, CANDLE, CALLED BOIS D’ALEXA, FEATURES vanilla and vodka as its key ingredients, and NOTES OF ORANGE, FRESH NUTMEG, CLOVE Jean Paul Gaultier 2, a hit with the bar’s gay male clientele, is a potent rum and bitters LEAVES, CINNAMON BLOSSOM, CEDARWOOD drink laced with port. The lineup changes each AND GUAIAC WOOD. “FOR ME, WOOD MAKES season. Stuffed with paraphernalia from around A PLACE FEEL COZY,” SHE SAYS. PRICED AT the world, the bar itself is considered one of ABOUT $73, THE CANDLE WILL LAUNCH IN Milan’s most intimate and kooky, and boasts DECEMBER AT AIDA IN QATAR. RODULFO more than 500 drinks on its list. The “Scent” cocktails are among the most ordered. Notes HOPES TO SECURE U.S. DISTRIBUTION SOON. Comini: “They’re very popular with clients who —BRID COSTELLO

are fragrance lovers.” —ALESSANDRA TURRA COMINI BY GIANNONI; AND GIOVANNI MAITRE DOMINIQUE ACHARD, BY DELPHINE RUNWAY DRENDEL; AND KATE BY BRIAN SHABAGLIAN ILLUSTRATION

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ PUMP, PAINT & GO!

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The connection between 01 KARL LAGERFELD KAPSULE LIGHT fragrance and THE MIND This blend of water- IS EXPLORED IN THIS drenched jasmine, bitter SEASON’S NEWEST orange, nutmeg and clove PAST is one in a trio of minimal- SCENTS, WHICH ist scents in which the CONVEY MEMORIES famed fashion designer has interpreted different AND RECALL JOUR- fragrance families. ($110; NEYS TAKEN AND PRESENT Neiman Marcus) PLACES TRAVELED. 02 CRABTREE & BY BELISA SILVA EVELYN INDIA HICKS PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE ISLAND NIGHT Model, designer, author and fragrance muse, India Hicks combined night-blooming fl owers, musks and island palm as a nod to her laid-back life in the Bahamas. ($50; Crabtree & Evelyn)

03 CAROL’S DAUGHTER PEARLS The fi rst fi ne fragrance from Carol’s Daughter uses a comforting palette of anise, violet leaves, apricot and vanilla to con- jure up soothing memories of family and heirloom jewelry. ($40; Carol’s Daughter, Dillard’s, Macy’s, Sephora)

04 LILLY PULITZER BEACHY Lilly Pulitzer’s new scent trio offers an olfactive spin on her namesake Palm Beach–inspired clothing brand. Beachy has notes of sliced watermelon, marine air accord, citrus, salt crystals and sweet vanilla. The collection also includes Wink and Squeeze. ($68; Bloomingdale’s, Sephora)

05 SPACE NK JASAMBER To mark her store’s 15th anniversary, Space NK founder Nikki Kinnaird teamed up with art director Fabien Baron to create new bottles for a scent collection inspired by memorable destinations. Jasamber, inspired by the Northern Lights, contains green top notes laced with precious woods and frozen musk. ($70; Bloomingdale’s, Space NK) STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO BY STYLED

12 WWD BEAUTY BIZ rimmellondon.com

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The newest treatment 01 CLINIQUE COMFORT ON CALL items PUMP UP SKIN’S Packed with natural NATURAL DEFENSES protectants and a water- AND STOP ENEMY binding protein, this SERVE AND enhances the skin’s ability FORCES LIKE POL- to guard against damaging LUTION, WEATHER airborne particles. The Japanese-grown jabara CHANGES AND fruit, known to natives as RADIATION DEAD IN PROTECT the “magic fruit,” adds THEIR TRACKS. antiallergy benefi ts. ($39.50; Clinique counters, clinique.com) BY BELISA SILVA PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE 02 BIOTHERM BAUME CORPS ULTRA RICHE BODY BALM The healing powers of apricot kernel oil and apri- cot pulp extract work with nourishing shea butter to help guard against winter’s harsh drying effects on skin. Muscat rose oil and thermal plankton further beef up defenses. ($30; biotherm-usa.com)

03 PREVAGE BODY TOTAL TRANSFORMING ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER Following in the footsteps of Prevage’s well-received facial line, this body treatment uses the same antioxidant, idebenone, to help prevent oxidation, a cause of skin aging. For- mulated to protect against free radicals, it also claims to fi rm up skin and target stretch marks and minor scars. ($135; Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, elizabetharden.com)

04 MD SKINCARE BEAUTY IN: TOXINS OUT DETOX DUO This duo claims to combat environmental aggressors and irritants while boosting defenses. The Purifying Bath Crystals contain toxin-defeating botanical extracts, while the Antioxi- dant Enzyme Buff creates a protective barrier on skin to shield against pollution and the elements alike. ($55; Nordstrom, mdskincare.com)

05 NATURA BISSE C+C VITAMIN COMPLEX Three different forms of concentrated vitamin C work in tandem purportedly to accelerate cell regenera- tion, rebuild collagen fi bers and fortify skin against stress, UV rays and other forms of cellular damage. ($170; Barneys New York, Berg- dorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus) STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO BY STYLED

14 WWD BEAUTY BIZ Helps You Take Care of Your Beauty

SKINCARE HAIRCARE NUTRITIONISTE FRUCTIS Refreshing caffeine gel formula in a stimulating roller massage. - Fastest growing hair care brand over the last 4 years -Puffy bags defl ate - #2 overall brand in the category -Dark circles diminish -Eyes look brighter SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER No one makes your hair stronger*

*Fructis shampoos vs. other market-leading shampoos.

InStyle is a registered trademark of Time Inc. used with permission. InStyle Insiders Most Wanted Awards were selected and presented by InStyle Insiders during the 2008 NACDS Marketplace event in San Diego, CA, during June 2008. InStyle Insiders are select InStyle readers living in the San Diego area. They are not affi liated with InStyle editorial or publishing staff. STYLING Unleash your style! vitamin B55 caffeinec HAIRCOLOR Garnier hair color continues to drive growth in the category

*Based on IRI data for curl styling products exclusive skin sold in US food, drug, and mass market nutrients† merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) for 12 months ending 2/24/08.

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by 2010—and beauty’s potential for growth is clear. International brands have long been mindful of this vast opportunity. Anglo-Dutch consumer giant Unilever snapped up the Indian cosmetics company Lakme in 1998. Today, its Indian subsidiary, Hindustan Lever, is the market leader, competing with cheap domestic brands by selling a wide and affordable range of products. Other leaders include L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Revlon, as well as more recent entries, such as the Estée Lauder care, with 59 percent. Estimates of Cos. and Chanel. future growth vary, but most analysts While Western brands entering expect that the market will grow 15 to the market have sought to encourage 20 percent in the next few years. Indian consumers to upgrade their Though India’s economy will be beauty habits, marketers quickly INDIA affected by the global downturn, the have learned that understanding the DESPITE THE GLOBAL ECONOMIC DOWNTURN, country is still expected to maintain nuances of this vast country is key to INDIA’S MIDDLE CLASS IS STILL EXPANDING AT gross domestic product growth of success. Didier Picard, vice president between 7 and 8 percent in the next few and general manager of Estée Lauder, A BRISK CLIP. BUT TO TRULY CAPITALIZE ON years. The management consultancy Middle East and India, which entered THE COUNTRY’S CENTURIES-OLD TRADITION fi rm McKinsey expects this to India in 2005, says that operating in OF BEAUTIFICATION, BEAUTY COMPANIES transform India into the world’s fi fth- a nation as vast and diverse as India,

STILL HAVE TO OVERCOME THE COUNTRY’S biggest consumer economy by 2025 and “which is not really one country, but 29 ES/GETTY IMAGES; MODEL BY SAJJAD HUSSAIN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES infl ate its middle class from 40 million states,” requires careful planning. REGULATORY HURDLES. people to 583 million, quadrupling In the south, for example, people consumer spending from about $354 have darker skin and women are BY MIAN RIDGE billion to $1.5 trillion in 2025. more conservative than their northern NEW DELHI—From principal consultant at Technopak India’s economic boom is counterparts, especially when it comes body scrubs to eyebrow Advisors. centered on the service sector, to color cosmetics. But when it threading, many products Euromonitor puts India’s cosmetics where personal grooming is comes to fragrance, light, fl owery and practices popular in the West and toiletries market at about important. Combine this with notes appeal to women across the hail from India. Unlike in the West, $4.45 billion in 2007, a 47 percent increasing numbers of women country, says Picard. however, beauty here tends to come increase over 2002. Hair care is the joining the workforce—the Many Indian consumers, he cheaply—most remedies cost less than a biggest segment, accounting for National Association of adds, have little idea of the range dollar. Now, as India’s economy booms, about $1 billion in sales, followed by Software and Services of skin care products available, international brands hope to turn the skin care, with $514 million; color Cos. expects women to or their function. “The level country’s centuries-old tradition of cosmetics, with $174.3 million, and constitute nearly half of brand awareness is good, beautifi cation to their advantage. fragrance, with $88.1 million. of the employees but people have little idea “India is among the top markets Cosmetics saw the biggest in the what to actually do with the in the world for beauty products, growth between 2002 burgeoning products,” Picard says. despite having among the lowest and 2007, increasing 332 IT sector He cites a recent levels of per capita spending on percent, followed by promotion for personal care products, fragrance, with 140 Clinique’s averaging $4.90 percent; hair care, three-step per person,” says with 62.5 percent, skin care Rohit Bhattiani, and skin program in Delhi. Nearly 3,000 women turned TAJ MAHAL BY STEVE ALLEN/BRAND X/CORBIS; DYE MARKET BY FRANCK GUIZIOU/HEMIS/CORBIS; MOHANDAS GANDHI BY MANSELL/TIME LIFE PICTUR

16 WWD BEAUTY BIZ The definitive skincare is born

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also are seeing a mushrooming of THE GREEN SCENE department stores. But the headache caused At the Biotique store in Delhi’s crowded Khan by high rental prices in such Market, marketing executive Neera Sodhi locations is worsened by high sniffs at jars of lotion with names like Saffron import tariffs—although Youth Dew and Red Sandalwood Cream. “I an increasing number of prefer to wear natural products on my skin,” companies are getting around she says. “Most people here do.” this by manufacturing in That preference means natural products India. Modi Revlon, a joint are big business in India; many leading brands venture between Revlon label skin care “herbal” or “ayurvedic.” and India’s Modi Group, Ayurveda, a 5,000-year-old system of manufactures here “to allow holistic medicine, has potent associations, us a healthy bottom line,” taken as it is from Hinduism’s Scriptures. Capital New Delhi water (%): 9.56 says chairman Umesh Modi. Adapting it to skin care means, broadly, Largest city Mumbai Population 1,132,446,000 Orifl ame manufactures 25 using herbs, plants and minerals commonly prescribed by ayurvedic doctors, including Offi cial languages Hindi, and there Currency Indian rupee (R$) (INR) percent of its products sold in India domestically, while neem, a leaf that is described as a toxin are 14 other offi cial languages. Time zone IST (UTC+5:30) Mary Kay plans to use a fl usher, cleanser and blood purifi er, and Area 1,269,346 square miles; Internet TLD .in chunk of its initial $20 million turmeric, said to be an antiseptic and skin investment in India to set up softening agent. up, “and few of them had any idea work ethic and place a high value on manufacturing units. Ayurvedic beauty brands are careful about facial exfoliation. You need family,” she says. The beauty business is to emphasise their spiritual and historical to explain everything from scratch,” Fredrik Widell, managing director also victim to the other perils origins. Vinita Jain, founder of Biotique, he says. “Foundation is another of India operations for Orifl ame, of doing business in India, describes how she learned the practice of interesting case. Ask 10 women if which launched here in 1995, agrees. foremost among them its ayurveda from the yogis—holy men—who they want to use it and they all say “Today, we have 100,000 sellers talking ropey infrastructure, from lived on her grandfather’s tea estate. Shahnaz no. Show them how it looks when about our products every day,” he says. congested roads to frequent Hussain, founder of the eponymous beauty applied, and they all say yes.” Orifl ame is experiencing sales growth power cuts. “The pitiful state of empire, says India “holds an answer to the One makes discoveries during years of 50 percent year-on-year. infrastructure, overregulation synthetic cosmetic ills of the West in the form of working in India, says Dinesh Dayal, As enticing as the numbers sound, and corruption…are the main of ayurvedic medical science.” L’Oréal India’s chief operating offi cer. not all is rosy for international brands. obstacles to growth,” says Kai Even politicians have dabbled in ayurvedic Most Indian women have long, straight Despite an ongoing program of Boris Bendix, managing director beauty. In 2005, India’s main opposition, the hair, which they wear in simple, neat mall building—which, most agree, of Nivea India. “While there Bharatiya Janata Party, set up an ayurvedic styles. “The gray shows quicker, so we has reduced the power of the gray are solutions to all of these, the stall in Delhi selling lotions made from the have developed products that allow market—high-quality retail space Indian economy could grow urine and dung of cows, under the name quick touch-ups,” he says. remains limited and overpriced. at double its current speed by Goratna or “jewel of the cow.” A growing number of companies “There are, what? Six, seven really seriously addressing these topics have found that direct selling is an good malls in India?” asks Picard. within the political framework.” effective way to educate consumers. When one of them, Select Citywalk, Despite the diffi culties, selling in are increasingly taking on global brands. Hina Nagarajan, India manager of opened in South Delhi in October India is a no-brainer. “We’d be crazy to Earlier this year, Lauder bought Mary Kay, says that culturally, India is 2007, Estée Lauder snapped up ignore it,” says Picard. And should it a stake in Forest Essentials, a high- particularly suited to the direct-sales stand-alone stores for Clinique be required, there are constant end, ayurvedic treatment line that model. “Flexible direct selling…is and MAC. “The space squeeze is reminders of India’s potential has doubled its sales annually since very desirable in India, where women defi nitely slowing growth,” he says. in the form of homegrown it launched in 2001 and expects to respect a A few doors down, Lancôme, brands that have 14 freestanding stores by the strong Elizabeth Arden, Shiseido and other end of the year. “We’ve decided to prestige brands have counters make the brand stronger in India at Shoppers Stop, a before launching it globally,” fast-expanding says managing director Mira department Kulkarni. “We’re working on store. Outside doing this within the next the big cities, two years.” small towns Though the timeline is conservative, the company clearly recognizes the potential, both domestically and globally. Said chief executive offi cer William Lauder at the time of the acquisition: “[This] gives us a stronger presence in the rapidly expanding prestige beauty business in India.” He added, “We have seen how consumers around the world are interested in beauty products with natural heritage.” ELEPHANT BY MARTIN HARVEY/CORBIS; BANGALORE BY JON HICKS/CORBIS; BOLLYWOOD ACTRESS BY SAJJAD HUSSAIN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES

18 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

EYE CATCHING You see it coming. The sideways glances. Faraway stares. Full, up-and-down passes. Your gorgeous eyes are turning heads. And it’s only natural. You’re a catch.

See the jane iredale Fall Collection, with Smoke Gets in Your Eyes, a sexy, smoky eye palette.

The #1 choice of skin care professionals See all that jane iredale has to offer at: www.janeiredaledirect.com NEW YORK LONDON MILAN PARIS SSPRINGPRING 22009009 THE GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY REPORT Talk about surreal: This year the global economy was in free fall during the spring 2009 collections, but rather than being cowered by

grim news, the world’s leading hairstylists and GIORGIO ARMANI makeup artists unleashed their imaginations in DOO.RI a riot of color, shape and texture. The result is a season strong in trends, from the resurgence of superstraight hair to the new glam-Goth eye ringed in layers of black and charcoal. If, as in past eras, beauty remains recession proof and women actively seek affordable indulgences, there should be more than enough to inspire them in the months to come. Here, spring’s key JAMES COVIELLO beauty trends from the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris.

Reported by Brid Costello, Stephanie Epiro, Matthew DONNA KARAN Evans, Andrea Nagel, Julie Naughton and Molly Prior Photographed by Delphine Achard, John Aquino, Pasha Antonov, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Mauricio Miranda and Robert Mitra RODARTE CYNTHIA ROWLEY TORY BURCH

KARL LAGERFELD VERA WANG GIORGIO ARMANI BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR

MAKEUP SSILVERILVER SSTREAK:TREAK: Shine emerged as a key trend on spring runways, with silver being the universal go-to choice for achieving a luminous, iridescent effect. At Vera Wang, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni took as her inspiration Wang’s artful jeweled necklaces and belts, brushing delicate arcs of silver on the eye, offset by a touch of lip gloss and black mascara. At Giorgio Armani, Linda Cantello was after a “hot, steamy feeling,” highlighting charcoal eyes with silver accents. Silver took on a more rock ’n’ roll vibe at Doo.Ri and Karl Lagerfeld, with deep silver extending out into smoky eyes at the former and rimmed in black liner for a feline look at the latter.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 21 CHLOE HERMES DKNY

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

GIVENCHY

BCBG MAX AZRIA

HAIR TTHEHE STRAIGHT AND NARRNARROW:OW: For spring, the fl atiron reemerged with a vengeance. Gone were the long layers of socialite waves as popularized by Tinsley Mortimer et al. Superstraight, supershiny MICHAEL NAEEM JIL SANDER locks dominated in their stead. KORS KHAN “Hair is less precious and glam this season,” said Eugene Souleiman at the DKNY show, where he blew hair straight then fl at ironed it. “The idea is to keep the girls as realistic as possible, but fi ne-tuned,” said Luigi Murenu at Givenchy. “We’re blow-drying hair with the ends out, which gives an airy and luscious look. It’s simple, modern minimalism.”

PRADA HAIR THE SSHAPEHAPE OFOF THINTHINGSGS TTOO COCOME:ME: At some shows, hair wasn’t just styled, it was whipped into a veritable work of art. At Dior, inspired by a Nefertiti hat in the collection, Orlando Pita inverted cone shaped head- pieces onto the models’ heads, then crimped 3-inch sections of hair and wrapped them around the structure before adding choppy bangs. “It’s a tribal look that we’ve kept young and fresh by adding a fringe,” he explained. Over at Yves Saint Laurent, Julien d’Ys created dual-toned coifs with exten- sions specially dyed (in Japan, natch) to match each outfi t, while at Prada, Guido Palau gave each model her own primevally ridged updo.

PRADA YVES SAINT LAURENT

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

22 WWD BEAUTY BIZ DIOR DIOR CAROLINA BASSO & NATASCHA JONATHAN HERRERA BROOKE STOLLE SAUNDERS

CATHERINE MALANDRINO

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAKEUP RED RESURGENT:RESURGENT: When it A.F. VANDEVORST comes to strong lips, red is the new red. “This is the fi rst time in 27 years I’ve done TODD LYNN a red lip,” said designer Michael Kors, of the crimson pout created for his show by Dick Page. He wasn’t alone—designers on both sides of the Atlantic opted for the classic glamour of a cherry mouth. What did change was the texture: matte at Luella; shiny at Kors, Thakoon and Proenza Schouler; glossy at Natascha Stolle, and glittery at Gaspard Yurkievich.

PROENZA SCHOULER

LUELLA

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

GIANFRANCO FERRE NINA RICCI SUE STEMP ROKSANDA ILLINIC JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC HAIR ROLLROLL WITH THE FLOW:FLOW: Twists and rolls were all the rage this season. Many used the style to impart a LOEWE Forties vibe, including Isaac Mizrahi, with soft rolls in the

front; Catherine Malandrino, with swirled chignons on GASPARD the top of the head, and Vivienne Westwood Red Label, YURKIEVICH where Malcolm Edwards described his inspiration as MICHAEL “demented Forties Flintstones.” “They’re bad girls who go KORS to church for sex,” he elaborated. Twists took an elegant turn at Carolina Herrera, where Orlando Pita created an off-center part and then twisted the hair upward and in to complement the designer’s chic gowns. ISAAC MIZRAHI ASHISH LOUISE GRAY PAUL SMITH

JUST CAVALLI

DRIES VAN NOTEN

LANVIN

JASON WU GILES GARETH PUGH YVES SAINT MAKEUP DRAMATISDRAMATIS PERPERSONAE:SONAE: Makeup took a LAURENT decided turn for the dramatic on the runway, with strong black PUCCI eyes emerging as a key trend. “For spring, makeup was all about making an impact, and eyes were the major focus,” said makeup artist Val Garland, who dubbed the look “glamour Goth.” At some shows, eyes were heavily shadowed on the upper and lower lids; at others, the emphasis was on the top only. Shapes ranged from the round at Ashish and Louise Gray to the feline at Yves Saint Laurent. With eyes this strong, the most common choice for lips? A swipe of concealer and little else.

FERRAGAMO

GILES 24 WWD BEAUTY BIZ GIORGIO ARMANI NICOLE FARHI BALMAIN

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

RALPH LAUREN MARC BY MARC JACOBS

MAKEUP MINIMALIMINIMALISMSM TOTO THE MAX:MAX: “It’s fresh, it’s SINHA-STANIC beautiful, it’s healthy,” said Pat McGrath of the barely-there look she created at Stella McCartney. Also referred to as natural, minimalist, healthy or clean—the nearly nude ALEXANDER MCQUEEN look has long been a staple on New York runways, and this season was equally as prevalent in Paris, as well.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

VERONIQUE DOLCE & GABBANA LEROY

HAIR WWATERLOGGED:ATERLOGGED: MOSCHINO “Wet hair always looks sexy, as you can imagine someone getting out of the shower,” said Eugene Souleiman backstage at Stella McCartney. “It’s hammam chic,” said Peter Gray at Paul Smith. Call it what you will—slicked-back tresses also steamed up the runways at Gareth Pugh, Pucci, Giorgio Armani and Sinha-Stanic, where stylist Malcolm Edwards described the rockabilly look as “a bully who gets good grades.” WWD BEAUTY BIZ 25 CALVIN KLEIN PORTS 1961 GUCCI MAKEUP POPPOP GOES THE PALETTE: While no single color dominated the spring collections, bright hues were seen in all four cities. At John Galliano, Pat McGrath dipped into a rainbow palette, drenching faces in various shades highlighted by exquisite detail—such as gold meticulously placed above the bow of a cherry red lip. Others used brights more MARC JACOBS sparingly: At Rodarte, orange highlighted eyes and lips; at Shipley & Halmos, frosted fuchsia dusted eyes, cheeks and lips, and at Gucci, McGrath created a turquoise oasis for eyes, offset by rich black lashes.

RODARTE

DKNY

MARCHESA

ZAC POSEN

BETSEY JOHNSON MAX MARA

CHANEL MAKEUP SHIPLEY & HALMOS JUSTJUST BRBROWSING:OWSING: “From no brows to strong brows to colored eyebrows, the eyebrow is a big trend this sea- son,” said Tom Pecheux backstage at Givenchy. At many shows, brows were exaggerated and prominently penciled in—Marni, Marchesa

MARNI and DKNY among them. At Marc Jacobs, though, Dick Page bucked the trend by bleaching brows altogether, drawing his JOHN GALLIANO inspiration from a faded black-and-white photo- graph of a woman with no brows, shiny lids, a superthin lash line, black mascara and no lips.

26 WWD BEAUTY BIZ KOI SUWANNAGATE AQUASCUTUM SONIA RYKIEL LOUIS VUITTON MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

FENDI

REBECCA TAYLOR

HAIR ROUGROUGHH AND TTUMBLE:UMBLE: Textured and tousled were backstage buzz- words for hairstyles. “The diffuser is the big thing,” said Samantha Hillerby at Julien Macdonald. “Drying naturally, scrunching and creating texture are back in a big way.” At some shows, the texture was soft, as in poufs of frizz at Sonia Rykiel and Louis Vuitton; at others, rough and choppy. There is a common point, though, said stylist Paul Hanlon: “It’s all about dry texture.” MARIELLA BURANI

REEM ACRA NANETTE LEPORE HAIR A TWISTTWIST ONON BRAIDS:BRAIDS: Braids took on a decorative element this season. Hanlon created ropy coils at Alexander McQueen, to give back interest to his netted, treelike styles, while at TAO Marios Schwab, Duffy used them to refl ect the jewelry ALEXANDER MCQUEEN worn in the collection. Nanette Lepore and Reem Acra both opted for more traditional interpretations— Seventies inspired and parted in the center at the former, Sixties and teased high at the crown at the latter. MARIOS SCHWAB

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 27 Straight hair or wavy. A strong eye or a statement-making lip. Each season, key beauty FOLLOW trends are created for the catwalk by a handful of elite makeup artists THE LEADERS and hairstylists. Here, meet 14 of the most GORDON ESPINET VAL GARLAND PAT MCGRATH infl uential. They not only AGENCY: N/A AGENCY: Streeters London AGENCY: Streeters London SHOWS: Six, including Vivienne Westwood, SHOWS: 15, including Nicole Farhi, SHOWS: 29, including Dior, Versace, Dolce & enhance a designer’s Threeasfour, Elie Saab, Rosa Chá, Willow. Monique Lhuillier, Diesel, Costello Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta, Prada, Gucci. individual vision, but COMPANY AFFILIATION: Vice president, global Tagliapietra, Iceberg, Hervé Léger. COMPANY AFFILIATION: Global creative collectively create new makeup artistry, MAC COMPANY AFFILIATION: Artistic adviser, design director, P&G Beauty CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Beauty has many YSL Beauté CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Enjoy life and take directions in beauty faces and is no longer measured by a specifi c CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Build a bridge and inspiration from everything you see. Never that are translated from standard. Beauty is as unique as each get over it. fear the unconventional and thinking the runway to retail and individual who has existed on this planet. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: She’s somewhere over outside the box, especially when it comes SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: “The Cool Factor.” the rainbow—gorgeously groomed, soft to makeup. Some of my favorite looks have inspire consumers for It’s more important to look cool than to and sexy. come from taking risks. seasons to come. look cute! The Nineties grunge trend has SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: High glamour and been reborn, but it’s cleaned up. Skin has the chic, dressed-up face. Contrasts in a sheen that looks like it’s made of plastic; textures; intense shine to accent eyes and liner is smudged and has a “lived-in” look. lips; a sculpted, monochromatic face. Be it MAKEUP ARTISTS natural or bold, the look is polished.

DICK PAGE TOM PECHEUX LUCIA PIERONI CHARLOTTE TILBURY AGENCY: Jed Root AGENCY: The Collective Shift (New York); AGENCY: Streeters New York AGENCY: Management Artists SHOWS: Nine, including Marc Jacobs, Mi- Calliste (Paris) SHOWS: Five, including Vera Wang, SHOWS: 31, including Chloé, Missoni, Zac chael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez, Thakoon. SHOWS: 17, including Ralph Lauren, L’Wren Scott, Christopher Kane, Posen, Donna Karan, Pucci, Sonia Rykiel. COMPANY AFFILIATION: Artistic director, Yves Saint Laurent, Balmain, Givenchy, Alberta Ferretti, Ferragamo. COMPANY AFFILIATION: N/A Shiseido The Makeup Hermès, Derek Lam, Doo.Ri, Badgley COMPANY AFFILIATION: Color creator, Clé de CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: I take inspiration CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Makeup is fun. I Mischka, Isaac Mizrahi. Peau Beauté from all aspects of my life and passions, such love it when women use it to play with COMPANY AFFILIATION: N/A CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Natural beauty with as fi lm, art and nature. their looks…enhance, decorate, disguise— CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Chic and playful. an edge. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Sculpting; monochro- if you must!—but most of all, enjoy. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Youthful glamour. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Super-natural, light- matic makeup, created by using contours SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Heat, energy and Women always like to add glamour to refl ecting minerals and African deserts. and highlights. Thick, lush, “Brooke various versions of “sexing up” your look, be it their makeup look, and we’re seeing in the Shields” eyebrows are a must and have a as at Kors with superglossy red lips or a more upcoming season a play on glamour with a youthful feel…or a sexy, lived-in, rock-chic formal bluish-red lip, as at Thakoon. Alexan- fresh, youthful twist. look with slightly smudged eyes in navy blues, silvers, blacks and purples. der Wang was scruffy and sexy….They’re all STILL LIFE PHOTOS TALAYA BY CENTENO cool and the elements are interchangeable.

28 WWD BEAUTY BIZ ODILE GILBERT PAUL HANLON LUIGI MURENU AGENCY: Exposure NY AGENCY: Julian Watson Agency, London AGENCY: Streeters New York SHOWS: 16, including Christian Lacroix, SHOWS: 11, including Matthew SHOWS: Nine, including Gianfranco Ferré, Baby Phat, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Sonia Rykiel, Williamson, Christopher Kane, Gucci, Chloé, Viktor & Rolf, Givenchy. Bottega Veneta, Karl Lagerfeld, Rodarte. Burberry, Pucci, Costume National, COMPANY AFFILIATION: Artistic consultant, COMPANY AFFILIATION: She works with Alexander McQueen. Kérastase USA a variety of brands on different shows, COMPANY AFFILIATION: N/A CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Spontaneity. I including Redken, Aveda and L’Oréal CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: I take inspiration from believe in the creative subconscious as the Professionnel. everything around me—from a person who driving force that informs and defi nes each CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: I stand by the Nike walks past me in the street to someone I see of my looks. slogan, “Just Do It.” Specifi cally, I believe in a fi lm. My philosophy is to be open and SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Texture and the quality in not overthinking things. experiment and never to be afraid. Nothing is of the hair, rather than styles per season. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Interesting and wrong as long as you feel comfortable. innovative ways to put your hair up. For SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Dry texture and practical reasons, women want to wear their unkempt hair. Kate Moss is the perfect hair up. It’s always a challenge and exciting example. She’s very iconic and all the girls to fi nd ways to reinvent the chignon or in London want to look like her. People are ponytail, etcetera. moving away from the very done, beautiful, jet-set hair. It’s more about individuality. HAIRSTYLISTS

GUIDO PALAU LAURENT PHILIPPON ORLANDO PITA EUGENE SOULEIMAN AGENCY: Art + Commerce AGENCY: Tim Howard Management (New AGENCY: Art + Commerce AGENCY: Streeters London SHOWS: 27, including Marc Jacobs, Ralph York); Calliste (Paris) SHOWS: Eight, including Carolina Herrera, SHOWS: 28, including Marchesa, Isaac Lauren, Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, SHOWS: 14, including BCBG, Chado Ralph Halston, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, Mizrahi, Donna Karan, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luella, Rucci, Blugirl, Moschino, Rick Owens. Vera Wang, Bottega Veneta, Marni, Dior. Hussein Chalayan, Stella McCartney, Issa, Prada. COMPANY AFFILIATION: Editorial stylist, COMPANY AFFILIATION: T3 Valentino. COMPANY AFFILIATION: Creative consultant, Bumble and bumble CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: A haircut or style is COMPANY AFFILIATION: Varies each season. Redken CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Hairdressing is about what suits you, your lifestyle, your CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Learn the rules, CREATIVE PHILOSOPHY: Being aware of about taking what inspires you from hair type and your face shape. Hair should make the rules, break the rules. trends, both current and past, and applying various disciplines and synthesizing these never be treated as one thing for everybody. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Celebrating this knowledge within the areas that infl uences into your own unique elegant SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Well-groomed diversity in terms of hair. Designers designers, photographers and stylists are vision. It’s important to have a point of looks, whether it’s an updo or down with wanted to do what they wanted to do—it aiming for. view, but one that’s open to collaboration accessories for a chic look. Lengths that are wasn’t about trends this season—and the SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Minimal and and adaptation and is generous enough to between the chin and collarbone. Women beauty about this is women of all shapes, simplistic with a lightness and certain taste accommodate another artist’s vision. are shedding that long hair….It started sizes, colors and textures of hair can be of romanticism. SPRING IS ALL ABOUT: Easy hair, nothing with Gwyneth [Paltrow]. fashionable. It felt like hair had been painful-looking. Could be a fl attering loose done more than in previous seasons and ponytail or a soft wavy texture or a little the craft of hair was back! more rock ’n’ roll, like the heavy texture for Diesel. For the more sophisticated fashionistas, a revisited Fifties updo.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 29 MEET THE SMALL BUT POWERFUL GROUP OF PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO SHAPE SOCIETY’S PREVAILING NOTIONS OF BEAUTY BY FILTERING WHAT WE SEE THROUGH THEIR LENSES. HHOTOT SHOTS

BY MOLLY PRIOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY PLAMEN PETKOV

For most of us, the world can appear small while peering through a camera’s Alek Wek. The issue generated so much buzz, publisher Condé Nast (par- viewfi nder. ent company of WWD Beauty Biz) increased newsstand distribution of the But when top fashion photographers stare through their lenses, they see special issue by 40 percent in the U.S. All have impacted not only the worlds unlimited opportunity to elevate their subjects—and themselves—to larger- of fashion and beauty, but popular culture overall. than-life status. “It is very diffi cult to make an image that stands out in today’s society Such enviable power is wielded by an insular group of global photog- and that, at the same time, is relevant and sells,” says Giovanni Testino, raphers who have shaped beauty’s collective visual vocabulary by lensing founder and chief executive offi cer of Art Partner, an agency that represents nearly all of the high-profi le images on which we’ve laid eyes during the last such notable photographers as Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino and the duo decade—from infl uential magazine covers and editorial spreads to ad visuals Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. “Real creativity starts with the artist, not the and TV commercials. magazine they’re working for.” Their images have defi ned current notions of beauty and created a com- In addition to Testino’s stable at Art Partner, photography’s estab- mon aesthetic. Recall Mario Sorrenti’s black-and-white Calvin Klein ads lished guard is dominated by the likes of Meisel, Peter Lindbergh, Patrick with Kate Moss. Or Juergen Teller’s ironic and stark images—like the ad Demarchelier, Irving Penn, Bruce Weber and Nick Knight. In the last campaign he photographed for Marc Jacobs last spring, featuring Victoria decade, their ranks have expanded to include Michael Thompson, Craig Beckham collapsed inside a giant shopping bag, her legs sprawled clum- McDean, Terry Richardson and Steven Klein, among others. sily over the sides. The July issue of Italian Vogue rocked the fashion in- Their ranks are limited. But in an industry where the competitive stakes dustry with its “Black Issue,” in which Steven Meisel photographed only are high and ad budgets stratospheric, this small group of veterans is known black models, including Naomi Campbell, Veronica Webb, Liya Kebede and to deliver. “They’re holding their place in that world by delivering results

30 WWD BEAUTY BIZ WWD BEAUTY BIZ 31 VIEW MASTERS for companies with global dimensions and so much at has worked with a magazine for awhile, I may push to stake,” says Doug Lloyd, creative director of Lloyd & THE LIST OF ELITE solidify the relationship before another magazine tries Co., a creative agency that counts Jil Sander, Oscar de la SHUTTERBUGS to snatch the photographer away. Or, if another maga- Renta and Estée Lauder among its clients. Lloyd notes IS A SHORT ONE. zine does attempt to snatch up the photographer, it the top guard has changed little over the past decade. may precipitate contract talks.” “For the most part, it’s been the same names,” he says. HERE, FASHION’S Getting to that level is far from easy. It’s not that When Lloyd’s company does decide to mix things TOP 12. —M.P. the industry doesn’t want to catapult an emerging up, chances are he’ll enlist a different photographer photographer to stardom. Rather, it’s been diffi cult to within the select group, rather than go outside of it al- match the talent at the top, which most agree keeps The go-to together. For example, McDean has shot nearly all of STEVEN MEISEL: getting better and more versatile. “It’s rare to fi nd a photographer for Vogue and Estée Lauder’s ads for the past three years. “We tend photographer who has developed his or her own voice,” Italian Vogue. Lauded for slick, to use the same team for two or three years so we have says Freedman. “That takes time and experience—and high-fashion imagery. consistent imagery,” explains Aerin Lauder, senior vice not just experience taking pictures, but a way of seeing president and creative director of the brand. the world. A fi xture Last year, though, Weber photographed Lauder PETER LINDBERGH: “It’s easy to copy or imitate technically profi cient in major glossies, best known for for French Vogue and a trust was formed—and in the work,” he continues, “but to develop a voice is much black-and-white images with an sharp-edged fashion and beauty business, trust is cur- harder. It’s not that we’re not looking. We always are.” honest quality. rency. When the brand decided to create new imagery Assisting a famous photographer is the most com- for its Pleasures and Beautiful fragrance franchises, mon way to rise through the ranks. McDean appren- Weber was tapped. PATRICK DEMARCHELIER: ticed with British photographer Knight; Sims assisted Frequently referred to as a Pleasures new ad features spokeswoman Gwyneth Robert Erdmann and Norman Watson; Thompson legend. His charm disarms his Paltrow laying on emerald green grass, a guitar aside worked with Penn, and Mikael Jansson apprenticed for subjects, including the late her in lieu of the puppies traditionally used for the Richard Avedon. “Rarely does someone just appear,” Princess Diana of Wales. brand, while model Hilary Rhoda was photographed says Freedman. “You can’t learn without being exposed for Beautiful. “We’re always looking at ways to keep the to all the people involved in a shoot—hairstylists, Highly brand fresh,” says Lloyd. “Bruce Weber is amazing with MARIO TESTINO: makeup artists, models and stylists. Unless you’re ex- polished, exotically bright natural, lifestyle photos.” posed to the best, you’re just never going to learn.” photos. A celebrity favorite. Like most in fashion and beauty, Lauder monitors The top fashion magazines serve as a portfolio, of select domestic and international magazines as one sorts, for a photographer’s work, and photo credits are A master of source of inspiration when mulling a creative direction. BRUCE WEBER: assiduously noted by creative directors and marketing lifestyle shoots. Also known for Among the most infl uential are Vogue, French Vogue and executives on the hunt for a hot name or a sure bet. having a sensual approach. Italian Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar and V and Visionaire. Editorial work establishes their worth, but a steady In turn, each magazine has its own stable of go-to stream of commercial work is what catapults photog- Seeks to lensmen who help defi ne its look and feel. For example, NICK KNIGHT: raphers into jaw-dropping tax brackets. challenge conventional notions Annie Leibovitz, Testino, Meisel, McDean and Klein Creative agencies often rely on magazine spreads and of beauty; known for his shoot for Vogue; McDean, Alas and Piggott, Klein, photographic agencies to unearth developing talent, and versatility and experimentation Sorrenti, Teller, David Sims and Inez van Lamsweerde fashion and beauty fi rms, in turn, look to creative agen- with complex technologies. and Vinoodh Matadin for W, and Leibovitz and Testino cies to help select the best photographer for a campaign. for Vanity Fair. In the fashion world, the most coveted include Versace, Got “The key is to develop a juxtaposition of different MARIO SORRENTI: Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Giorgio Armani; in his big break in his early 20s, points of view, so in each issue there is enough of a beauty, they include Lancôme, Lauder, L’Oréal and shooting Kate Moss for Calvin dialogue between different photographs,” says Dennis Coty, among others. The reward of landing such a cam- Klein. Uses the camera as a tool Freedman, creative director of W, which is often cred- paign is rich, indeed: The upper-echelon photographers to experiment. ited with making photographers. “It’s about putting charge a day rate of between $70,000 and $130,000 (not together a synergy of work, a rhythm.” including royalties, mind you). Smaller, independent magazines, such as Dazed MICHAEL THOMPSON: In the fashion industry, familiarity breeds content- Pristine photos of celebrities. and Confused, Another Magazine, Purple and Pop, are ment. “I’ve been working with the same people for 15 Known for amping up the beauty also key outlets for many. “In Europe or small circu- years,” says Olivier Van Doorne, president and world- in his subjects. lation magazines, you can sometimes push creativity wide creative director for SelectNY, a leading creative a bit more, due to the fact that their economic reali- agency. “I believe in experience and maturity. There’s a Has a very ties and their respective number of readers is smaller,” CRAIG MCDEAN: time in life where you have both experience and a spark. styled, hip aesthetic. Celebrated says Giovanni Testino. “However, perhaps for those I get unexpected results with the expected culprits,” he for his striking fashion imagery same reasons, one could argue that it’s in the big- continues, naming Knight, who shot Lancôme’s 2008 and portraiture. ger U.S. magazines that more creativity is required campaigns; Lindbergh, with whom he worked while he in order to deal with so many commercial parameters was creative director for Lancôme in the Nineties, and and still make a lasting image.” MERT ALAS AND MARCUS Sims as frequent collaborators. Images have a Contracts with such magazines are highly sought PIGGOTT: Van Doorne has recently worked with two young- staged and quirky quality, with after. The details of these agreements range widely in er photographers—Carter Smith for an upcoming stark contrasts and rich color. terms of level of exclusivity required, years covered and, JLO scent and Alexi Lubomirski for Wella hair care. of course, compensation. Industry experts estimate that Lubomirski, who used to assist Testino, is perhaps best Known primarily annual editorial contracts can range from eight to 24 DAVID SIMS: known for shooting the nude and pregnant Britney for his strong fashion images. stories, and pay from $100,000 to several million dol- Spears for the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, prior to her lars, depending on the photographer. precipitous fall from grace last year. Still, Van Doorne A known Jed Root, founder of Jed Root Inc., an agency that JUERGEN TELLER: quickly adds that the current climate, where the indus- rule breaker. His raw, unstyled represents leading fashion photographers, stylists and try is focused on return on investment and profi t, is not images are a Marc Jacobs hair and makeup artists, explains, “If a photographer the most opportune time to develop new talent. favorite.

32 WWD BEAUTY BIZ For his part, Trey Laird, president and executive creative director of Laird few is increasingly awe inspiring. This summer, within the same week she + Partners, a New York–based creative agency that works with Coty, Gap, worked with Meisel for the steamy Calvin Klein Secret Obsession shoot, Donna Karan and Juicy Couture, has his eye on a notable crop of photogra- featuring a nude Eva Mendes, and the “superstyled” ad for the fragrance phers emerging from the fi ne art world, Ryan McGinley in particular. “He’s Vera Wang Look, which began appearing this month. coming from an art point of view, and his pictures and models don’t look like “[Meisel] might not seem like a new name, but he’s so versatile that he anyone else’s,” Laird says. constantly surprises,” says Walsh. Turning to the Secret Obsession shot, she Be that as it may, though, Laird, continues: “The campaign is com- too, tends to work with the same pletely modernizing the franchise. group. “The top photographers It’s gone from the sex in a bottle of are getting better and their view- the Eighties to a sensual and relat- point is getting stronger,” he says. able image of Eva Mendes.” Referring to advertising images, The fi nely crafted point of view he adds: “These are very powerful of a photographer can intrinsically tools that defi ne a brand. They be- link him or her to a brand. Take come part of popular culture.” Marc Jacobs’ work with Teller, Laird notes that, before Juicy whose images for the designer and Couture’s fragrance launch in 2006, in his editorial work display a raw- the brand hadn’t defi ned itself with ness, reality and a sense of irony a particular image. Evocative of a that at times can make the viewer punkifi ed Marie Antoinette–esque feel slightly uneasy. “Juergen has tableau, the scent’s ad visual fea- created the house image for Marc tured fi ve models, elegantly dressed Jacobs,” says Walsh, “but his imag- in softly colored gowns of pink, es tell a story, as the most memo- yellow, blue and green in a parlor rable photos do.” setting, replete with a crystal chan- Brands pay dearly for that tal- delier and a large, regal-looking ent—and expectations are equally fragrance bottle. high. Though all declined to speci- “Now, the [fragrance ad] image fy numbers on the record, multiple has infl uenced all the brand’s cam- sources agree that the cost of an paigns,” says Laird. “Calvin Klein advertising shoot can range from was the king of this strategy. His $500,000 to more than $1 million. fragrance ads were the brand. “There is limited room for error…. That’s why the stakes are high, es- You get one shot,” says Neil Kraft, pecially for global launches.” founder of advertising agency Laird has worked with Coty KraftWorks, which has devel- on the relaunch of CK One and oped campaigns for Calvin Klein, its growing portfolio of celeb- Barneys New York and Ralph rity fragrances, including those by Lauren, among others. Vera Wang, Sarah Jessica Parker, “The top dozen do amazing Halle Berry and Gwen Stefani. advertising work, and the stakes In the case of Stefani, Alas and on the advertising side are much Piggott—lauded for their use of higher. They understand market- stark contrasts—shot the ad cam- ing,” Kraft continues. Such hefty paign for her first scent, while budgets weigh heavily on creative McDean was chosen for her lat- directors’ shoulders. Kraft still re- est fragrance, Harajuku Lovers, a YOU OFTEN HEAR, ‘OH, IT’S THE calls when years ago Calvin Klein quartet of whimsical doll-shaped killed an advertising shoot by bottles. The ad features a model SAME PEOPLE.’ BUT I’M NOT EVEN Meisel. “You remember it because with soft pink cheeks, wearing a it’s quite scarring if a designer kills subtle doll-like expression and an REMOTELY TIRED OF THE PHOTO- a shoot,” he says. elaborate arrangement of fragrance “Making an image is not just bottles in her hair. GRAPHERS I’M WORKING WITH, SAYS pushing a button,” says Laird, not- “Craig shot it almost as if it ing that behind the scenes are set were a high-end shoot for Vogue. It COTY’S CATHERINE WALSH. designers, casting directors, a creative was very mature,” says Catherine director or editor, hair and makeup Walsh, senior vice president of artists and a stylist, all working under American fragrances for Coty Prestige, who says the aim of the campaign the aegis of the photographer. “A great team works together like a machine.” was to avoid an unwanted Hello Kitty aesthetic. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert, a fashion week fi xture who often works with Walsh juggles seven celebrity and designer brands—Sarah Jessica Parker, Lindbergh, is one such team member. “You have to love photography to Jennifer Lopez, Gwen Stefani, Calvin Klein, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs understand what makes a great picture,” she says. Her personal collection and Vera Wang—and uses a host of creative agencies and photographers. of photographs and books includes works by Avedon and Penn; her recent “You often hear, ‘Oh, it’s the same people.’ But I’m not even remotely tired shoots include a TV commercial directed by Sofi a Coppola for Miss Dior of the photographers I’m working with,” says the executive, who studied Chérie and a spot for Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle with Keira Knightley. photography in the master’s program at Ithaca College. “When you work in the fi eld of photography, you need years of experi- Walsh, who says asking her to name her favorite photographers is akin to ence,” says Gilbert, who started styling hair at 17 years old and emerged as a HAIR BY AMY FARID AT SEE MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY ITSUKI AT THE WALL GROUP; NAILS BY BETHANYasking NEWELL AT MAGNET a parent to name a favorite child, says the work done by the seasoned notable name at 33. “In fashion, everything takes a long time.”

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 33 CATWALK SUPERSTAR COCO ROCHA HAS A FLAIR FOR THE DRAMATIC ON THE RUNWAY—AND OFF.

WORDS BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY GUY AROCH CARDIGAN BY RODARTE. TANK BY VPL. SOCKS BY HUE. Whoever said girls can have either killer looks or Wintour, photographer Steven Meisel and de- Council of Fashion Designers of America forum a great personality never met Coco Rocha. signer Jean Paul Gaultier. regarding models and weight. “I had been opening Not so long ago, Rocha was just your average “I love women with personality, and she’s a per- the subject more and more in interviews, and Anna Irish-dancing, nature-loving Canadian teenager. fect example,” says Gaultier, whose runway Rocha Wintour got wind of it and asked me to be part But after being scouted at a dance competition— can often be found—literally—dancing down. of this,” Rocha says. “Every girl has a story. My an event seemingly so preposterous it provoked “She can project something special when she’s do- speech was my own experiences and what people uncontrollable mirth in Rocha and her friends at ing a show—the clothes are given another dimen- have told me, and ideas and options that people the time—the 20-year-old now dominates model- sion. She can adapt and change, but at the same could work on.” Some of her suggestions included ing’s upper echelons. time, she always stays Coco.” convincing designers to hire larger fi t models and No wonder. In addition to a striking face that Bringing her personality to bear on her work provide healthier food backstage. the camera adores, Rocha thrums with energy. has been a conscious decision for Rocha. “There During her speech, Rocha also related being She doesn’t walk down a runway. She dances. She are enough models out there who are gorgeous and told once that “the look this year is anorexia, and doesn’t pose for a picture. She creates characters. good looking, but have nothing to bring,” she says. even though we don’t want you to be anorexic, we Her versatility and carefree individualism have “They can take good pictures, but after that, when want you to look it,” a quote that has become al- enabled her to cross from the catwalk to fash- you take the pictures, what do you have to say for most as famous as that of another Canadian su- ion editorial to beauty advertising seemingly ef- yourself?” permodel, Linda Evangelista, who quipped in her fortlessly and become a darling of fashion-world Rocha herself has a lot to say—and she’s not heyday that she and her sister supes didn’t get out ringleaders such as Vogue editor in chief Anna afraid to say it, as she proved when she spoke at a of bed for less than $10,000 a day.

“SHE CAN ADAPT AND CHANGE, BUT AT THE SAME TIME, SHE ALWAYS STAYS COCO,” SAYS DESIGNER JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, WHOSE RUNWAY ROCHA CAN OFT BE FOUND DANCING DOWN.

36 WWD BEAUTY BIZ SILK SHIRT BY MALO. SHORTS BY SONIA RYKIEL. SOCKS BY HUE. BRACELET BY TOM BINNS. WWD BEAUTY BIZ 37 SILK TOP BY LANVIN. BRACELET BY PHILIPPE AUDIBERT.

38 WWD BEAUTY BIZ “I LIKE SHOWS THAT But whereas Evangelista was speaking from ego, Rocha’s motives are anything but. “I’m inter- HAVE ATTITUDE, THAT ested in teaching girls about being aware of their ASK US TO GIVE IT OUR health and portraying a good role model to show them that, even though modeling—or any indus- ALL,” SAYS ROCHA. try—can be hard, you can defi nitely strive to it,” “DON’T BOOK ME IF YOU she says. Her interest in positively impacting the lives WANT PLAIN JANE.” of young women is personal. Rocha’s mother is a fl ight attendant, and as a child, she spent a lot of time in the company of babysitters and day care centers, she says. “I always appreciated when our big buddies came in and we really looked up to them,” she remembers. “Now I want to be a big buddy.” To that end, Rocha, who now lives in New York City, is involved with the Children’s Aid Society, giving speeches and dance demonstrations for the kids. She’s equally guileless in her approach to work. Despite the time-honored tradition of models beating down a path to Hollywood, Rocha insists she has no master plan to transition from the cat- walk to the red carpet. “I don’t plan my future very far off. I don’t plan tomorrow, because I don’t even know what today holds,” she says. “Acting? We’ll see. Modeling is taking up my plate right now, so we’ll see if there’s room for dessert.” Rocha speaks in a clipped tone punctuated with frequent giggles. When asked to describe her personality, she knits her brow. “I don’t know,” she trills, then pauses before continuing. “I like to have fun. There’s no point in working if you don’t like it.” Her favorite kind of shoot or fashion show is one that lets Coco be Coco. “I like shows that have attitude, that ask us to give it our all. Really, all we do is walk, so why not let us do something unique?” she says. Quotidian shoots are equally as boring. “Don’t book me if you want plain Jane. I seem to overpose sometimes, which can be a little bad,” she laughs, “but that’s just the nature of the game.” Thus far, she’s appeared in ad campaigns for Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Phi, Nicole Farhi and Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, for whom she serves as the face. A stellar roster like that has enabled Rocha to scale back on her show schedule for fashion week. Though in season’s past she’s done as many as 36 shows in New York alone, she did about 14 this go-around, two in Milan (Dolce & Gabbana and Versace) and four in Paris, includ- ing Chanel and Gaultier. “I don’t need to overdo it,” she shrugs. “I like to work with the [designers] who I have a good relationship with. You believe in what they’re doing and they respect having you.” At heart, Rocha remains unaffected by her glam environs. A tomboy at heart, she jumps at the opportunity to hike, bike or climb whenever she has a couple of days off. A teetotaler, her favorite way to unwind is with a swirl of frozen yogurt, her maltipoo, Peek-a-Boo, tucked in her lap. Gaultier credits her dance background with enabling Rocha to keep her feet planted on terra fi rma. “She’s a dancer and she has the dancer’s discipline,” he says. “Dancers are always ready to MAKEUP BY ANGIE PARKER FOR DIOR/ push themselves to the limit. Nothing is too com- ANGIEPARKER.COM. HAIR BY BOK-HEE plicated for Coco, and she’s always ready to try FOR TRESEMME. MANICURE BY TATYANA MOLOT. STYLED BY PRISCILLA POLLEY. SET something special.” STYLING BY STEPHEN CAPUTO AT MICHELE FILOMENO. PRODUCED BY HEATHER ROBBINS AT PHOTO DEPARTMENT. WWD BEAUTY BIZ 39 MILAN-BASED DERMATOLOGIST BRUNO MANDALARI’S NON- INVASIVE TECHNIQUES HAVE DOCTOR WON HIM A CULT FOLLOWING AMONG ITALY’S FASHION AND SHOWBIZ SETS. DOLCE VITA

BY STEPHANIE EPIRO his celebrity clients, he’s happy to divulge in-depth about $270, while the DNA test is $400. PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID YODER details of his work. Through a customized blend of Afterward, Mandalari’s treatment options typically Late on a Milanese fall evening, dermatologist treatments, Mandalari’s aim is to regenerate collagen include his preferred tools: an ultrafast pulsating laser Bruno Mandalari is zipping about his sparse white and the extracellular matrix, which he describes and a high-pressure pump that transmits vitamins and clinic, prepping his tools for his last appointment as the material part of skin tissue that provides minerals into the skin. The dual approach treatment of the day, TV presenter Simona Ventura—Italy’s structural support to the cells. Mandalari says that, costs about $270, and Mandalari recommends three equivalent to Kelly Ripa. if stimulated, extra collagen can fade scarring, sittings in the space of a month. With a half hour to spare before she arrives, discoloration and fi ne lines, and plump up the skin “The machinery is the same as [that which] a lot of Mandalari throws on a rumpled lab coat over his with a fresh, softer, more radiant texture. dermatologists use; it’s the way that I use them together casual uniform of jeans and T-shirt and settles When a client visits Mandalari’s clinic for to make the treatments more effective,” he says. behind his desk, which is illuminated by a Kartell the fi rst time, he begins with a multitiered study Mandalari refers to the high-speed Erbium laser lamp. Opposite is a view of the leafy street below, of her skin. The analysis includes UV photos to as a “scrub” because the pulsating red light works where dolled-up ragazze are striding toward the pinpoint sun damage, a DNA test—with the client’s by removing the top layer of the skin. “The laser’s neighboring restaurant and bar complex Gold, permission—to indicate genetic-specifi c aging, and heat puts the skin into shock, forcing it to create Dolce & Gabbana’s eatery. urine and blood tests to reveal what minerals and more collagen,” he says. Immediately after the laser, Mandalari’s stylish surroundings are no vitamins are lacking. His initial consultancy fee is Mandalari follows up with a procedure he’s dubbed accident: He’s the go-to skin guru among Italy’s fashion designer and showbiz set, all of whom clamor for his noninvasive antiaging treatments. Unlike many celebrity derms, Mandalari shuns fi llers and surgery. Instead, his arsenal of skin- saving procedures includes vitamin infusions and laser resurfacing. Add to that Mandalari’s tailor- made therapy approach and his methods ensure a monthlong waiting list for an appointment. “Here, no client just walks in, undergoes a procedure and walks out,” says Mandalari, of those lucky enough to score an appointment. “There’s a methodology to how I treat skin aging, and it’s not just about one magic tool that can fi x everything.” He adds, “It’s not about miracles, but simple science.” At 48, Mandalari is his own unoffi cial advertisement—his wholesome, glowing face is deep set with dark brown eyes. He’s slightly tanned from a recent sailing trip, but in Mandalari’s book, the sun is the devil and sunbeds are molto dangerous. He admits his opinions are harsh for some clients, who live in a country where regular sunbed sessions are part of a beauty regime and many of Italy’s biggest fashion designers sport year-round tans—where Valentino bronzes himself on top of his yacht cruising the Mediterranean coast and Donatella Versace has a tanning bed installed at home. But Mandalari makes a convincing antisun case, and other clients are quick to sign on to every element of his skin-saving doctrine. For example, Dan and Dean Caten, identical twin brothers and designers behind the label Dsquared2, booked regular visits to Mandalari’s clinic after a summer spent on the beaches of Mykonos, followed by a stressful lead-up to their spring 2009 fashion show. “We destroy ourselves through hard work and play,” confesses Dan, “and it takes it out of your skin. What Bruno does is so great because it’s nothing foreign or weird he’s putting into your skin. It’s like he’s giving you a deep facial, freshening it up and renourishing it. After I’ve done one of his treatments, everyone asks what I’ve done to my face.” Though Mandalari won’t reveal the name of

40 WWD BEAUTY BIZ “biorevitalization,” which infuses active principles Tuscany’s coastal region of Maremma, between the into the skin, either via a needle or a mechanical cities of Siena and Grosseto. pump that blasts a concoction of vitamins, minerals At the hotel’s spa, Mandalari has duplicated and amino acids at high velocity. “Because the the treatments his Milan clinics offer, adapting pump has extraordinarily high pressure, it is the procedures into short weekend and longer stretching the skin, allowing the minerals to weeklong therapies. Guests book a dermatological penetrate deep into the layers of the epidermis, and treatment program with a specifi ed diet and exercise Everything stimulating it to rehydrate and improve volume and plan, devised by a dietician and personal trainer in elasticity,” he says. collaboration with Mandalari. The spa also boasts According to Mandalari, the treatments take another jewel: centuries-old thermal waters integrated no more than 30 minutes, aren’t painful and have into its pools. Between appointments, guests can soak to Gain minimal side effects. In addition to the face, he also their respiratory, muscular and skin ails away in the focuses on the hands, neck and décolleté. sulfur-rich 90-degree Fahrenheit waters. “There’s little redness because I use the laser Mandalari also is working on an eponymous for such short periods. In the days following the skin care line. The products will contain high treatments, patients notice their skin becomes concentrations of the minerals and acids Mandalari clearer and more luminous, but you see the best administers in treatments, but will be available only Become a results after 25 to 28 days, the usual time it takes for for clients, he says, whom he insists are the sole the skin to renew itself,” he says. focus of his work. For particularly damaged and aging skins, “My clients don’t distinguish me because of my CEW Mandalari rounds out the treatments with injections capabilities, but the type of serene beauty I strive for, a of hyaluronic acid (at about $500 a vial). beauty that’s more real,” he says. “It’s not easy to erase a In Milan, Mandalari divides his time between small wrinkle or make the skin more luminous, elastic member two clinics. In September, he inaugurated a medical and have a splendor to it. It’s very diffi cult, but I think spa inside a new fi ve-star resort hotel in the what I am doing is part of the future of dermatology, picturesque Tuscan countryside. The Petriolo Spa because the skin I work with remains natural. It’s and Resort is tucked away in the verdant hills of not full of silicone or Botox—it breathes.” We offer some of the biggest benefits in the beauty industry:

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01 HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY? remember, less is more, particularly with MAC It’s an indefi nable thing. Every morning I look products, which go a long way. You don’t have to in the mirror and there I see it. If you don’t plaster them on. They bond with the enzymes think of yourself as beautiful, you’re always of your epidermis. I’m a bit of a skin guru. Don’t behind the eight ball, as far as personal appear- neglect your gastroesophageal junction, either. It ance is concerned. I have a very high self- is so important for breathing. If you neglect that esteem. I’m not conventionally beautiful, but inner tubing, you’ll get blotchy. I am very, very attractive. I look in the mirror YOU DESCRIBE YOURSELF AS A HOUSE- every morning and I fall in love with myself. WIFE, INVESTIGATIVE JOURNALIST, WHAT’S YOUR BEAUTY REGIMEN? SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGIST, TALK I don’t really have one. Isn’t that naughty? I SHOW HOST, SWAMI, CHILDREN’S don’t overpamper myself. Less is more, as far as BOOK ILLUSTRATOR, SPIN DOCTOR, I’m concerned. Lovely thoughts I entertain. I MEGASTAR AND ICON. HOW DO YOU think about money a lot and I think that’s very, FIND BALANCE IN YOUR LIFE? very good for you. When I go to Switzerland, I don’t. I have no balance at all. I do the fi rst to my other home, I often go to the vault in my thing that amuses me. The secret of my hap- bank and sit very quietly and meditate, looking piness is procrastination. I put things off. If at my wealth. I wouldn’t recommend it for I don’t want to do it, I wait until tomorrow everyone, though, because it might be depress- and sometimes those horrible things go away. ing, particularly for Americans at the moment. Those irksome tasks, those little chores we HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR dread, don’t always wait for us to attend to STYLE? them. I believe in doing what amuses me. If My style is my own. I’ve been around quite a it makes me laugh, guaranteed it will make while, and yet you wouldn’t think it. People my little possums laugh. come up to me on the street and want to touch YOU’VE PERFORMED COUNTLESS my skin. Even people in the back row of the the- TIMES IN FRONT OF THE QUEEN. ater tell me they couldn’t help but notice my legs HOW DOES YOUR PREPARATION and my skin. I let them touch it so long as they FOR A ROYAL APPEARANCE DIFFER don’t touch my erogenous zones, which these FROM THAT OF A REGULAR ONE? days are everywhere. Did you know that the skin The queen accepts me as I am. She’s very LA GRANDE is the largest organ of your body, so generally jealous of my appearance. I have sent her speaking, if there is a large organ in the vicinity, the whole MAC range to try out, and you’re people are pretty keen to get their hands on it. going to notice a big difference. YOU’VE BEEN IN SHOWBIZ FOR 50 YOUR MAKEUP COLLECTION IS DAME YEARS! HOW HAVE YOU MANAGED TO HEAVY ON THE SPARKLES AND STAY SO YOUNG LOOKING? BRIGHT COLORS. CAN EVEN WOMEN Though few entertainers possess a visage as It’s how I think. It’s a youthful attitude. I’m D’UN CERTAIN AGE WEAR SUCH striking as that of Dame Edna Everage, née Barry popular with very young people. If you asked SHADES? Humphries, of Australia, she’s always been excluded the average young person who they prefer, Yes. The more color, the better. The world is Britney, Lindsay, Paris or me, it would be full of dull, drab-looking people. You sit in a from the celebrity beauty bandwagon. No longer. always me, depending on, of course, where car, waiting for the light to change, and all you Dame Edna has teamed up with MAC on a signature you were. There are obviously slummy parts of see is pedestrians slouching past, particularly America, as there are everywhere, where my on Fifth Avenue. They’re all wearing the same makeup collection, launching next month. Here, the name doesn’t mean a great deal. color. Women look like they’ve just come from Dame reveals her secrets for staying forever young. YOU’RE LATE TO THE CELEBRITY a funeral in the cathedral across the road. We BEAUTY BANDWAGON. WHY DID need color, girls. Lots of it. Don’t be afraid. BY JENNY B. FINE YOU WAIT SO LONG TO LAUNCH WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE TO WOMEN YOUR LINE? WHO ARE AFRAID OF COLOR? They’re in a hurry. How long are they going to I have tested all these colors personally, in social 01 Dame Edna in all her glory. last? I believe I have a long shelf life, though and in romantic situations, which can some- 02 Her new beauty line. I’m not on the shelf paradoxically. I’ve been times involve quite a bit of wear and tear. Men waiting for the right cutting-edge cosmetics have thanked me for looking vivid. Whatever company to come along and approach me. I happened to vivid women? I see people who don’t want any old manufacturer of gels and really, quite frankly, look as though they belong 02 emulsions and creams. I was waiting for the in a nunnery, not on the streets of a vibrant city. right modern-thinking, youthful company. YOU HAVE AN ARDUOUS TOURING HOW INVOLVED WERE YOU IN THE SCHEDULE THIS FALL. WHERE DO CREATION OF THE LINE? YOU FIND YOUR INSPIRATION FOR I was in the laboratory from start to fi nish. YOUR SHOWS? I was in the art department designing the I’m inspired by my public. If I stand on that beautiful packaging. It’s been a thrilling stage and look across the footlights and see experience for me. Unlike those other these eager little faces looking up at me—their glamour-pusses, I was in no hurry because I faces like fl owers, the occasional cactus, but on knew I would still be around in 20 years’ time. the whole, faces like fl owers—drinking in my DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE PRODUCT? words, that is my reward, my inspiration. I like the Kanga-Rouge. No kangaroo was hurt DO YOU HAVE A MOTTO? in the making of that product. My motto is, I care, I share. My other motto WHAT’S YOUR BEST BEAUTY ADVICE? is, there’s no such thing as crow’s feet. They

Don’t overdo makeup in the T-zone, and are the dried-up bits of old smiles. DAME EDNA BY GARY MOSS/CORBIS; STILL LIFE BY GEORGE CHINSEE

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