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Spring's Most Directional Hair and Makeup Trends

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Spring's Most Directional Hair and Makeup Trends CHILLING WITH COCO: OFF DUTY WITH A CATWALK QUEEN HOT FLASH INSIDE THE INSULAR WORLD OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY FRESH! SPRING’S MOST DIRECTIONAL HAIR AND MAKEUP TRENDS STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNWAY TOP MODEL COCO ROCHA Charlize Theron AVAILABLE AT MACY’S WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS 21 30 42 THIS MONTH: KEY BEAUTY TRENDS FOR SPRING ’09, STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNWAY, PLUS INSIDE THE WORLD OF ELITE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE 14 MOST SOUGHT-AFTER HAIRSTYLISTS AND MAKEUP ARTISTS. 8 PEOPLE, PLACES & LIPSTICKS 21 SPRING 2009: 34 COCO IN MOTION Hair crosses the threshold from head flair to THE BEAUTY REPORT Coco Rocha, the outdoor-loving, Irish-dancing bodywear, scent cocktails lift spirits and a bright Ready, set, spring! From stick-straight hair to glam supermodel, proves the most beautiful thing a idea from a society makeup artist and hairstylist. Goth eyes, a first look at key hair and makeup woman can be is herself. trends for spring, straight from the runways of New 12 WHAT’S IN STORE York, London, Milan and Paris. 40 DOCTOR DOLCE VITA This month’s key launches include scents that Milan-based dermatologist to the fashion evoke memories and protective skin care to brave 28 FOLLOW THE LEADERS cognoscenti, Bruno Mandalari keeps his elite the elements. When it comes to beauty, what happens on the clientele molto bellissimo with cutting-edge runway sets the stage for what sells at retail. Here, skin-saving techniques. 16 WORLD WIDE WATCH: INDIA meet the 14 most influential hairstylists and makeup Despite the global economic slowdown, India’s artists responsible for creating the trends each season. 42 LA GRANDE DAME middle class continues to grow. While that’s good The ultraglamorous Dame Edna Everage teams up news for beauty brands looking to increase sales 30 HOT SHOTS with MAC for a bold new makeup line every bit as and awareness in this vast country, overregulation A small handful of photographers help form our vivacious and colorful as she is. and an aging infrastructure present serious hurdles. prevailing notions of beauty by lensing the most cutting-edge editorial and advertising campaigns. WWD Beauty Biz takes an inside look at their exclusive world. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription ON THE COVER FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 196, NO. 103, Nov. will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production cor- Coco Rocha photographed for 14, 2008. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one respondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint WWD Beauty Biz by Guy Aroch. additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To Makeup by Angie Parker for and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, Dior/angieparker.com; hair is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that by Bok-Hee for TRESemmé; 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please manicure by Tatyana Molot; Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR styled by Priscilla Polley; set Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, styling by Stephen Caputo at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, Michele Filomeno; produced Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING by Heather Robbins at Photo Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT Department. Blouse by Givenchy. ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A BACKSTAGE RUNWAY PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; MODELP.O. BY PLAMEN PETKOV Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD BEAUTY BIZ 3 MASTHEAD A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY ADVERTISING PRODUCTION JENNY B. FINE EDITOR CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE PUBLISHER GENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, ED HECHT ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR DEBRA GOLDBERG ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, BEAUTY CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ELIZABETH DETMER BEAUTY DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET AHMED PRUITT PRODUCTION COORDINATOR BEAUTY EDITOR RON TROXELL WEST COAST DIRECTOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS CIRCULATION MATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR MICHELE SUTTON EXECUTIVE BEAUTY ASSISTANT AP DUFFY CIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR MICHELLE EDGAR ASSOCIATE BEAUTY RICHARD CHERICHELLA BUSINESS DIRECTOR, RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITOR FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP JOHN CROSS FULFILLMENT DIRECTOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR KAREN CHIU BUSINESS MANAGER, JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP VIVIAN DONATH EDITORIAL INTERN JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD DANIEL LAGANI PRESIDENT, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP LISA KELLY SENIOR COPY EDITOR COLLEEN COMPSTON EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE PRESIDENT CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI, BRID COSTELLO AND NINA MARKETING/PROMOTION JONES (LONDON), STEPHANIE EPIRO (MILAN), MILES JODI MARCHISOTTA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING SOCHA (PARIS), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN DANIELLE MCMURRAY CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR (LOS ANGELES), KATHERINE BOWERS (BOSTON), EVENTS MANAGER MELISSA DRIER (BERLIN), GEORGIA LEE (ATLANTA), KATIE MCKENNA BRAND DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR HOLLY HABER AND RUSTY WILLIAMSON (DALLAS), JAIME HOLLANDER SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER KOJI HIRANO (TOKYO) BRIDGIT KEARNS MARKETING MANAGER KATHLEEN CALLAHAN CLASSIFIED MARKETING MANAGER ART HILLARY TOWNSEND ONLINE MARKETING MANAGER DANILO MATZ ART DIRECTOR TING WANG PROMOTION MANAGER ANITA BETHEL PHOTO AND IMAGING DIRECTOR BENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR MARK RAMEL DESIGN MANAGER DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CARA CLINTON PROMOTIONS EDITOR JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, JULIE GU MARKETING COORDINATOR STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, STEPHANIE BROWN PROMOTIONS ASSISTANT ROBERT MITRA 4 WWD BEAUTY BIZ Shown: Red-y Wear to © Clinique Laboratories, LLC High on colour, long on comfort. New High Impact™ Lip Colour SPF 15 wears beautifully for 8 hours. And lips enjoy every minute. In 20 highly moisturizing shades that continually smooth, soften, comfort. Protect from UVA /UVB, too. Have it all. clinique.com EDITOR’S LETTER Fashion shows are, by nature, a celebration away much of the world’s wealth? And what role of unfettered creativity mixed in with a dash of beauty, a category conventional wisdom considers commercial viability. But the spring 2009 season was recession proof? SURVIVAL different—the global economy was in free fall during Whether it remains so is a different matter, but the the collections, imparting the proceedings with an air world’s top hairstylists and makeup artists are certainly of surreality. As we were putting together this issue, doing their part to help boost the industry. At many our annual look at the interconnection between the shows, rather than being constrained creatively by the MODE fashion and beauty worlds, we asked, how relevant dire goings-on, they unleashed their imaginations is high fashion when a fi nancial tsunami is washing in a riot of color, shape and texture, resulting in a season full of strong hair and makeup trends. We’ve collated the most directional runway looks from the New York, London, Milan and Paris collections into “The Beauty Report,” starting on page 21, followed by a roundup of the 14 most infl uential artists who are largely responsible for originating them in “The Creative Coalition” on page 28. Another very small but powerful group that has an oversize impact on the prevailing notions of beauty are fashion photographers. In “Hot Shots” on page 30, Molly Prior peels back the curtains
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