WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10,2014 ■ WOMEN’SWEAR DAILY “ADVERTISEMENT” 100%K PRINTS ■ $3.00 ADVERTISEMENT

©2014 COACH® FALL 2014 Urban Hiker in black Whiplash Dakotah in black Houndstooth Parka on Harleth Front Cover: Rhyder 24 in gunmetal Shearling Coat on Lexi Coach proudly supports the High Line. coach.com GET SET BIKING LIKE A PREVIEW OF BECKHAM THE UPCOMING COTERIE SHOW, DAVID BECKHAM HELD INCLUDING TRENDS FLIGHT OF FANCY COURT AT BELSTAFF AND NEW FACES. IGGY AZALEA AND RITA ORA PERFORMED AT CALVIN FOR THE LAUNCH OF HIS SECTION II KLEIN’S FRAGRANCE LAUNCH, WHILE RALPH LAUREN CAPSULE COLLECTION PUT ON A WATER SHOW. 22 AND 23 FOR THE BRAND. PAGE 6

SEEN IGNITING SECTOR Launch Boost to Wearables

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

HAS APPLE just supercharged the smartwatch category? After months of anticipation, the tech company’s chief executive officer introduced the Apple Watch to the world Tuesday, along with two WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY new , including the larger-screen iPhone 6 WWD Plus, and a new payment system. Cook de- scribed the smartwatch, which will start at $349 and go on sale early year, as the “most personal de- vice we’ve ever created.” It’s an introduction with a good bit of fashion fl air, one higher-end version features rose gold detailing, that marks Apple’s offi cial arrival on the fashion scene. That makes for another extremely well-funded, de- sign-savvy and logo-oriented competitor in the acces- sories space. The question is whether Apple’s mar- keting savvy and brand reputation will be enough to beat out more accessories-focused brands like Swatch group, which is due to unveil its own smartwatch next year, or even hip celebrities like Will.i.am, who is Light plotting his own smartwatch introduction for 2015. Wall Street certainly seemed to be taking a wait- and-see approach to Apple’s moves Tuesday. After shares initially soared 4.5 percent on the releases, they slid back to close down 0.4 percent at $97.99. Alex Blanter, a partner in A.T. Kearney’s communi- Is Right cations and media and technology practice, said the decline had “more to do with the huge build-up of ex- Oscar de la Renta turned out an pectations around the product’s release rather than enchanting and youthful spring the product itself. Remember, with previous releases collection punctuated by fl oral motifs by Apple, the stock has tended to rise until the day the product is announced, and has fallen on the day and buffalo checks, as in this blue silk of the announcement. This release seems to be fol- and cashmere sweater lowing a similar pattern.” “Apple’s entry into this space is good news — for chicly tucked into now,” Blanter said. “If you look at the wearables mar- a clover guipure- ket — specifi cally smartwatches — it’s been crowded lace skirt. There SPRING 2015 SEE PAGE 8 was much more than just odes NEW YORK to the American COLLECTIONS country, though, Fashion’s New Faves: especially in the exquisitely Korean Celebrities embroidered furs, all in a By CASEY HALL collection that rivaled couture in AS FASHION MONTH continues its inexorable roll its craftsmanship. For more on the around the world, the fresh faces sitting in the front collections, see pages 10 to 15. rows may not necessarily be those of Hollywood star- lets or American pop princesses. In recent years, an increasing number of Korean celebrities — members of the cultural juggernaut known as Korean Wave, K-Wave or Hallyu — are be- coming a visible presence in the fashion world. This hasn’t escaped the attention of the industry’s big players. L Capital Asia, the LVMH Moët Hennessy -backed investment fund, is even rumored to have bought shares in YG Entertainment Corp., the South Korean management agency of Korean star Psy. The fund confi rmed it was looking into the company, but insisted that no deal has been sealed. Already in New York, there have been appear- ances from K-Pop girl group stars, including Hyuna from 4Minute at Rebecca Minkoff, and CL from 2NE1 (pronounced “twennyone”) — also part of the YG Entertainment stable — who attended Gareth Pugh, the Harper’s Bazaar party, Hood by Air and was ex- pected to appear front-row at Jeremy Scott today. Euny Hong, a Korean-American author whose recently released book “The Birth of Korean Cool” charts the journey of Korean culture around the world, expects to see more from the girls of 2NE1 at fashion shows worldwide this season, as well as their counter- parts from Girls Generation and the cast of “My Love From Another Star,” a highly successful TV drama. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 21 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 WWD.COM Rainer Named Coach President THE BRIEFING BOX tioned as a possible succes- a high-touch experiential con- IN TODAY’S WWD By ARNOLD J. KARR sor to Christine Day as ceo of sumer business.” Lululemon Athletica Inc., a post Rainer will have responsibil- COACH INC. is hoping a hotelier that went to Laurent Potdevin. ity for finance, information sys- can help it find its sparkle again. Rainer was most recently ex- tems, logistics, operations and Hyatt Hotels executive ecutive vice president and chief production. Gebhard Rainer will join Coach financial officer of Hyatt Hotels He will need to bring all his on Sept. 29 as president and Corp. and had previously served expertise to bear as Coach rush- chief operating officer. The ap- as managing director of the hotel es to reinvent itself under Luis pointment joins an executive chain’s business in the Europe, and Vevers and seize the mo- with extensive international Africa and Middle East regions. mentum back from fast-growing experience with a company During his tenure with Hyatt, competitor Michael Kors. Net counting on overseas growth as income for the year ended June the brand seeks to give a much- 28 fell 24.5 percent to $781.3 mil- needed jolt to its products under lion, while revenues declined 5.3 new executive creative director percent to $4.81 billion. The com- Stuart Vevers and get back to 36.7% pany expects low-double- digit growth in North America. Last revenue declines in its current

year, North American sales fell fiscal year, when it plans to close ERICKSEN THE CURRENT AMOUNT COACH SHARES 11 percent, sliding 16 percent in about 70 of its full-price stores in the fourth quarter alone. ARE BELOW THE 52-WEEK HIGH. North America, and it has hired Backstage at Vera Wang. KYLE Rainer will succeed Jerry Baron & Baron to handle adver- For more, see WWD.com.

Stritzke, who left Coach 13 tising, ending its relationship PHOTO BY months ago and subsequently Rainer lived in the Caribbean, with Laird + Partners. was named president and chief the Middle East, Eastern and On a day when U.S. equity executive officer of Recreational Western Europe and the U.S. markets drifted downward, Apple Inc. may have supercharged the smartwatch category by Equipment Inc., the Seattle- Luis, to whom Rainer will shares of Coach fell 69 cents, or introducing the Apple Watch Tuesday. PAGE 1 based outdoor gear and apparel report, praised his “strategic 1.9 percent, to close at $36.66. retailer more popularly known focus, team leadership, keen an- That’s 36.7 percent below the An increasing number of Korean celebrities — members of a as REI. Stritzke’s departure was alytical and technical skills and 52-week high of $57.95 reached cultural juggernaut known as Korean Wave, K-Wave or Hallyu — somewhat expected after he exceptional business acumen.” on Nov. 29, although 9.8 percent PAGE 1 lost out on the ceo job at Coach He also pointed to Rainer’s ex- above the corresponding low of are becoming a visible presence in the fashion world. to Victor Luis. He was also men- perience in “brand-building for $33.39 dating back to July 16. This year’s WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit is appropriately themed: “revolution” and how to cope and capitalize on it in the changing retail industry. PAGE 4 Judge Puts Ralph Lauren, USPA Case in Arbitration David Beckham drew a crowd outside the Belstaff store on RALPH HAS BEEN told to negotiate rather than sue. deemed to have been concluded. ’s Madison Avenue for a personal appearance to The 30-year trademark battle between Arvind and Arvind Lifestyle withdrew their suit promote his capsule collection for the brand. PAGE 4 Ralph Lauren Corp. and the United States Polo in Bangalore in October 2013, by which time Ralph Association is headed back to India after Judge Lauren had filed the most recent complaint in the Fresh off her U.S. Open title, Serena Williams presented her Thomas Griesa of the U.S. District Court for the U.S., alleging, among other points, that it has been fashion line on the catwalk Tuesday afternoon. PAGE 6 Southern District of New York this week rejected a cast as “the target of a fraudulently conceived inter- complaint filed last October by Ralph Lauren Corp. national shell game perpetrated by the USPA par- Plush elephants with letters about the threat of elephant against United States Polo Association Inc. and ties and Arvind” and pressing eight specific claims extinction signed by Hillary Rodham Clinton and daughter Arvind, its Indian apparel licensee. The complaint against USPA and Arvind. Chelsea were on each seat at Oscar de la Renta. PAGE 16 alleged unauthorized use of Polo’s single polo play- However, the court rejected Ralph Lauren’s con- tention that the arbitration provisions of the 2003 er mark and failure to provide the required dis- Yahoo’s new Style channel, headed by Joe Zee, has set out claimers indicating that USPA isn’t affiliated with settlement agreement had been negated by USPA’s to make a big splash during New York Fashion Week. PAGE 16 Ralph Lauren, as set forth in a settlement agree- quest for relief in Bangalore, rather than the U.S., ment reached in 2003. and granted USPA’s request to resolve the matter The judge sent the case back for arbitration in through an arbitrator. As the curtain rises on Milan Fashion Week Sept. 17, Italy’s front of a three-judge panel in Bangalore. He cited “The decision does not concern any of USPA’s luxury industry is fueled by exports but is also slowed by a terms of the settlement that called for “any dispute, alleged trademark rights and does not address the sputtering local economy. PAGE 18 action, aim or controversy” between the two parties merits of the violations committed by USPA and its pertaining to apparel to be resolved through arbi- licensees in India,” a spokesman for Ralph Lauren HSBC equity analyst Erwan Rambourg believes a slowdown in tration rather than litigation and, in cases involving Corp. said. “Ralph Lauren has asserted in various Chinese consumption of luxury goods is a tiny fissure in a great a licensee or sublicensee, to be heard in the “prin- court proceedings that the USPA and its licensees wall of future opportunity. PAGE 20 cipal place of business” of the licensee. continue to mislead the public by imitating our brand and capitalizing on the reputation and good- A roundup of New York Fashion Week’s Monday night after will that Ralph Lauren has created over many de- parties, including those for Ralph Lauren and a new cades. Ralph Lauren continues to vigorously pursue fragrance. PAGE 22 The complaint alleged claims against the USPA and its licensees around the world for violation of its intellectual property unauthorized use of Polo’s and its contractual rights and will always defend its ON WWD.COM rights against infringement wherever it appears.” Commenting on the procedural elements of the Backstage at Vera Wang: WWD went behind the scenes at Vera single polo player mark case, the spokesman noted that the company had Wang’s spring show. For more, see WWD.com. begun arbitration proceedings against the defendants and failure to provide in India “claiming violation of its contractual rights. The USPA and its licensees went to court in India in the required disclaimers an attempt to stop the arbitration and Ralph Lauren FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA then brought an action in the United States. The U.S. @ WWD.com/social District Court for the Southern District of New York indicating that USPA isn’t issued a decision this week affirming that the proper TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. forum for the dispute was arbitration in India.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. affiliated with Ralph Lauren. W. David Cummings, president and chief execu- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. tive officer of the USPA Properties Inc., the licens- VOLUME 208, NO. 53. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and ing arm of USPA, said, “We believe Ralph Lauren’s December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance underlying claims are both unnecessary and mer- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Arvind Brands, a division of Arvind Ltd., became itless. We have marketed our merchandise legal- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, a USPA licensee in 2007 and two years later was ly under our preexisting agreement with Ralph NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West spun off into a subsidiary called Arvind Lifestyle Lauren and have strict policies and procedures Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, Brands Ltd., which, according to court papers, was in place to ensure that our international licensees Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. bound by the terms of the 2003 settlement as well. also abide by those parameters. We are confident Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address In July 2013, Ralph Lauren Corp. initiated ar- in our position should Ralph Lauren elect to move changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. bitration proceedings in Bangalore against USPA forward with arbitration.” If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with and Arvind, but not Arvind Lifestyle, alleging Last year, the U.S. Court of Appeals upheld an your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be the misuse of trademarks and failure to provide earlier ruling that USPA could be stopped from mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request proper disclaimers. using the “double horseman” logo on its fragranc- to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse Arvind and Arvind Lifestyle countered with es despite the provisions of the settlement agree- permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. a suit against Ralph Lauren arguing that the ment covering apparel. In 2006, a New York federal Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we designer’s firm lacked standing to enforce its jury found that the double horseman image would believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR Indian subsidiaries’ rights under the agreement. not be deemed to be infringing on Ralph Lauren DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED The Bangalore court in August 2013 agreed with Corp.’s trademarks if it contained text but that a TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Arvind’s contention and, when Ralph Lauren didn’t solid double horseman without text could be count- UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND respond, the Indian arbitration proceeding was ed as constituting infringement. — AJ.K. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ©2014 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 WWD.COM WWD CEO Summit to Focus on ‘Revolution’ brand’s chief executive officer, will con- discuss the retail juggernaut’s challenges. multiuse, livable projects that embrace By DAVID MOIN sider how creative and business teams Technology and how it will impact and support local communities. can collaborate to build a strong brand. fashion in the future will be tackled by Chip Bergh, president and ceo of Levi IN A TURBULENT industry, the wheels On retail innovation, there’s a strong Steven Holmes, vice president, new de- Strauss & Co., will chat with Harold D. of change are spinning faster than ever. lineup including Richard A. Baker, gov- vices group and general manager, smart Reiter, chairman and ceo of Herbert The biggest trends: discounting, digi- ernor and ceo of -based Hudson’s device innovation team, Intel Corp. Mines Associates, and there will be a tal shopping, private equity investment, Bay Co. In a few short years, Baker has Holmes will focus on wearable technol- roundtable discussion on funding cre- outlets, ath-leisure, commercializing so- cobbled together a North American de- ogy and 3-D printing. ativity with Yancey Strickler, ceo of cial media, omni-initiatives and going partment store conglomerate composed Also speaking will be Qing Wu, senior Kickstarter; Maria Pinto, founder and global. While technology spawns new of Saks Fifth Avenue, Hudson’s Bay and economist, Google, who will give a pre- creative director of M2057 by Maria consumer experiences, products and Lord & Taylor, and he is investing to sentation on consumer insights in big Pinto, and Satya Twena, ceo of Satya revenue opportunities, retailers contin- pump up each nameplate. data, as well as Deena Varshavskaya, Twena Fine Millinery. ue their perpetual quest for the next hot Also speaking on innovation is founder and ceo of Wanelo; Trevor Another roundtable on consumer ex- fashion item or trend. Karen Katz, president and ceo of the Edwards, president of Nike Brand, Nike pectations for personalized engagement, Given the frenetic state of the busi- Neiman Marcus Group, which last year Inc.; Tom Kartsotis, founder, Shinola; rapidly changing technology and digital ness, this year’s WWD Apparel & Retail was purchased for $6 billion by Ares Stefano Rosso, ceo, OTB Group; Sarah innovation will include the following CEO Summit is appropriately themed. Management LLC and Canada Pension Quinlan, senior vice president, market chief marketing officers: Mary Beech, se- It’s about “revolution” and how to cope Plan Investment Board. insights, MasterCard Advisors; Nathalie nior vice president of Kate Spade & Co.; with and capitalize on it. The objective More immediately, all eyes are on Remy, partner, McKinsey & Co. Inc. Ara Katz, cofounder of Spring, and Oliver of the summit, to be held Oct. 27 and 28 Alibaba, the giant Chinese Web site, France, and Alexei Agratchev, ceo and Walsh of Aritzia. at The Pierre in Manhattan, is to gauge which, in a few weeks, launches one of cofounder, RetailNext. Short segments on technology, wear- the magnitude of change — the speed the biggest initial public offerings ever. Andy Dunn, founder and ceo of able art and other subjects selected at which brands and retailers must in- John W. Spelich, Alibaba Group’s vice Bonobos, and Jennifer Hyman, ceo and co- by WWD editors will be conducted novate to stay competitive and relevant president of international e-commerce founder of Rent the Runway, will address with Maxine Bédat, cofounder of Zady; — and provide solutions on how to deal business development, will speak at the whether digital retailers require a broad- Francis Bitonti, president and found- with it. Speakers will share insights from summit on Alibaba’s aspirations. er, multichannel approach for success. ing director, Francis Bitonti Studio Inc.; their experiences rather than simply The future of department stores, On the investment side, Ron Frasch, Justin Cooke, founder and ceo, Tunepics; conveying their company stories, on the which looks more bright than dark even operating partner, Castanea Partners, Suzanne Lee, founder of Biocouture Ltd., promise to deliver a content-rich pro- with the advent of the Internet, will and Glen Senk, chairman and ceo of and Christina Mercando, ceo of Ringly. gram with a heavy volume of takeaway. be addressed by Jeff Gennette, presi- Front Row Partners, will discuss how to For more information on the sum- On the designer front, Nicolas dent and chief merchandising officer of unlock a company’s value. mit, contact Kim Mancuso, 212-630-4212 Ghesquière, who late last year was Macy’s Inc.; Marigay McKee, president, The future of brick-and-mortar will or [email protected]. anointed artistic director of women’s Saks Fifth Avenue, and David Walker- be outlined by José de Jesús Legaspi, Sponsors include MasterCard, American collections at Louis Vuitton, following in Smith, managing director, Fenwick of president of The Legaspi Co., which has Express, Berglass + Associates, Herbert the footsteps of , will discuss Bond Street. revitalized properties by converting them Mines Associates, RetailNext, McKinsey striking a balance between art and com- Michelle Gloeckler, executive vice into Hispanic cultural centers, and Rick & Co., Karen Harvey, Phillips Edison merce. Joseph Altuzarra, creative direc- president, consumables and U.S. manufac- J. Caruso, founder and ceo of Caruso & Co., Alliance Data Retail Services, tor of Altuzarra, and Karis Durmer, the turing lead for Wal-Mart Stores Inc., will Affiliated. He had created human-scale, PayPal and First Insight.

Wilhelmina Models to Ring Nasdaq Bell Beckham Hits Belstaff

by licensing the name for consumer products will be DAVID BECKHAM is all revved up for New York By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG a key component to international growth. Apparel, Fashion Week. The former soccer player was in town to accessories and beauty are sectors that will be ex- support his wife, Victoria, as she showed her women’s WHEN WILHELMINA Models’ executive team rings plored. Within five to seven years, the company ex- collection on Sunday, but by Tuesday afternoon, it was the closing bell at Nasdaq today, the aim is to do pects consumer products sales to account for 15 to 20 all about his designs. more than trumpet its status as the only modeling percent of the overall business, Vaickus said. Beckham drew a large, squealing crowd outside the agency to be listed. By taking a more public role in the company, Belstaff store on Madison Avenue for a personal appear- The event will double as a coming-out party for Cooper wants to emulate her mother’s professional ance to promote his motorcycle-inspired capsule col- the founder’s daughter Melissa Wilhelmina Cooper, graciousness and high standards. “I never heard lection for the luxury brand. The event was also a book who has been working behind-the-scenes since late her say these words, but if there was a motto it was, signing for the new coffee-table tome, “Off Road/David last year, but is now taking a more public role as ‘It’s personal — everything is personal,’” Cooper Beckham,” a compilation of the athlete’s ads for the brand brand officer. She will be joined by chairman of the said. “She was gracious, compassionate and dedi- shot by Peter Lindbergh. board Mark Schwarz and chief executive officer cated to doing things right. She also expected a “Belstaff asked me if I’d Alex Vaickus, as well as such models as Coco Rocha very high standard from you and everyone around be interested in designing and Armando Cabral. Leading up to the company’s you — not just the models, the managers and the a capsule collection, and 50th anniversary in 2017, the senior team is broad- staff. But that was done not to be oppressive, but to I said yes,” Beckham said ening its international reach, raise you up and make you feel of the line of leather and delving into consumer prod- lorded upon.” waxed cotton jackets, pants ucts with a signature fragrance Born in Holland, Wilhelmina and T-shirts. “With the his- launch late this year or in early started modeling at age 15 after tory and heritage of the 2015 and rolling out a new logo her family relocated to Chicago brand, it was an easy deci- and branding. in 1954, and in 1961 signed with sion. It’s what I wear and To celebrate its new image, the Ford Agency. Once recog- what I like.” He is also the Rocha, Cabral, Soo Joo, Robyn nized as the highest-earning face of Belstaff ’s 2014 global Lawley, Patti Hansen and model of her time, Wilhelmina ad campaign. Theodora Richards will be among appeared on more than 300 Beckham joked, however, the revelers at a party tonight that magazine covers from 1961 to that he doesn’t expect to in- will include a performance by 1967, including 29 Vogues. At the herit the design mantle from Island Records’ Nick Jonas as a age of 27, she retired to open an his spouse and if they had to preview to the November release agency with her husband Bruce arm-wrestle for the design of his self-titled album. Cooper. Noting how modeling pad, “she would definitely MITRA With three U.S. offices and a has been a gateway to other ca- win.” He added that he’s in- talent base of 1,500, Wilhelmina reers for a number of now well- credibly proud of what she’s David ROBERT considers itself to be one of the known personalities, Melissa “created and achieved in a Beckham

last full-service agencies in that Cooper cited Hansen, Allison few short years, going from PHOTO BY it represents high fashion, fit- Wilhelmina, the Stern, Cindy Horn, B. Smith, a Spice Girl to a respected ness, lifestyle and an assortment company’s founder. Jessica Lange and Pam Dawber fashion designer. It’s really inspiring to see.” of other categories, Vaickus as examples. He said that Victoria’s show was the only one he was said. Through a partnership, With hundreds of thousands able to catch while he was in New York. “There were a Wilhelmina plans to open a Tokyo office within the of fans following their favorite models via the new couple of others I wanted to go to, but I haven’t had the next month. Tumblr blog XOWilhelmina, the company is trying time with her in town,” he said. The agency officially listed on Nasdaq a month to “tell the story of the people that are part of the Gavin Haig, the freshly minted Belstaff chief executive ago and its shares have ranged from a low of $3.20 brand,” Vaickus said. officer — the former Cartier executive has been in the job to a high of $7. On Tuesday, they closed down 0.6 As someone who once launched and ran the for six weeks — said Beckham’s capsule collection has percent at $6.40. Today’s ceremony is meant to health and wellness business Home Simply Yoga in been selling briskly since it hit the brand’s stores. “It’s raise its profile with Wall Street and aspiring mod- Santa Monica, Cooper, who also had her own inte- cross-generational and cross-nationalities,” Haig added, els on Main Street. Last year’s revenues were rior design business for 18 years, said she will be noting that sales are strong in cities as varied as New York, about $64 million and for the first half of this year, particularly mindful of the importance of teaching Tokyo and Shanghai. “It’s working quite well. He really revenues have grown by 22 percent, according to models how to live healthy and balanced lives. She feels the brand.” Vaickus, who joined the company two years ago said her mother understood that models “are young Then he followed Beckham outside the store for a photo from Playboy Enterprises Inc. His aim is to double people who are very impressionable and they are op in front of Beckham’s ad in the Belstaff windows and the size of Wilhelmina within the next four or five at the beginning of their lives, so that anything that his visit with a number of motorcycle enthusiasts who years. Creating a true consumer Wilhelmina brand isn’t done thoughtfully could hurt them.” drove by. — JEAN E. PALMIERI SPRING 2015 RUNWAY SHOW

#ALLACCESSKORS

YOUR TICKET TO GLAMOUR WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10 / 10 AM (ET)

SEE THE SHOW AT LIVE.MICHAELKORS.COM 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 WWD.COM Krakoff Preps Stores, Offerings Hoffman Seen On Kohl’s Radar open, we’ll start looking at secondary locations. By SHARON EDELSON “New York is our home,” Krakoff said. “It’s where we have a strong consumer base. It made sense to leverage that REED KRAKOFF is out on his own and stepping up his retail awareness by opening a second location downtown.” openings. Each store will have its own identity since “many luxury The designer last year bought his namesake brand from consumers shop across different cities,” Krakoff said. The Coach Inc., which had been backing him while he was its SoHo store, with raw oak floors, wood and glass vitrines, felt president and executive creative director. Now the indepen- furniture and gunmetal fixtures, will offer the full assortment dent company is set to open its first two stores: a 750-square- of ready-to-wear, handbags, leather goods, footwear, sunglass- foot boutique at 4 Rue de Marignan in , opening in es, watches and jewelry. Walls with architectural niches and October, and a 2,700-square-foot unit at 93 Green Street in soffits were painted with pops of cobalt. Krakoff called the SoHo, opening in November. environment “luxurious industrial.” In addition, a new handbag design, RK40, is launching The Paris store has lacquered walls, antique marble floor- in November. Krakoff ’s Web site immodestly identifies four ing and Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec’s AIM lights hanging handbag styles as icons, including the RK40, which was being over the shoe area. Fashion shows and Krakoff ’s video collab- sold in limited quantities during New York Fashion Week at orations will be projected on the walls. Both stores will have an online pop-up shop. Krakoff signed all 25 handbags, which a rotating selection of installations and furniture. “The idea ranged in price from $1,990 to $2,400, and sold out in less is to rotate the pieces once a year and bring the store to life,” than a day. Krakoff said. Sottsass Associati has designed a custom fixture Brendan Hoffman

Reed Krakoff’s RK40 bags. By DAVID MOIN

WILL BRENDAN HOFFMAN make a re- turn engagement in the Midwest? Since Hoffman’s departure as chief executive officer of Milwaukee-based Bon-Ton Stores Inc. last month, retailers and headhunters have been pondering his next move. At 45 years old, Hoffman is among the few young rising talents who has already held some high-profile jobs. His name regularly surfaces when major retail slots come vacant, along with some veterans like Roger Farah, for- merly of Ralph Lauren Corp., and Mindy Grossman of HSN. Currently, Hoffman is said to be on “It’s something we worked on for 12 months,” the designer for the SoHo store and the Bouroullecs are creating a custom Kohl’s radar for a top position. Kohl’s, said. “We have new leather qualities, new hardware, new exotic installation for the rear of the store called “The Cloud.” based in Menomonee Falls, Wisc., has its skins and new treatments. It’s something we feel will be part of For today’s presentation of Krakoff ’s collection, “one of two top merchant slots open, following our assortment for a long time.” the things we’ve been thinking about is how do we convey a the departures of chief merchandising of- At the presentation of his spring collection today Krakoff personal and more intimate idea of the brand,” the design- ficer Donald Brennan last April, and Peggy will display a larger selection of RK40s, including one-of-a- er said. An installation at the Hosfelt Gallery on West 36th Eskenasi, senior vice president of prod- kind pieces in hand-dyed alligator and other one-off artisan Street will showcase some of the company’s new digital work. uct development, last month. Earlier this versions. The company will take preorders after the show. “You’ll arrive at a curated gallery space where we’re you’ll year, Hoffman was on J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s “We’ve always had as part of our core strategy a retail roll- see looks we photographed using 3-D technology,” he said. radar, as a possible successor to ceo Myron out,” said Krakoff, whose only store, at 831 Madison Avenue, Live models were photographed in 360 degrees by Steven “Mike” Ullman 3rd, but that didn’t pan out. opened four years ago. Krakoff had opened a unit in Tokyo Sebring and different parts of the four-room gallery are de- “Kohl’s has a future. It just needs to when his brand was owned by Coach, but that store shuttered. voted to different product categories. be fixed,” said one investment banker. “There are somewhere between 10 and 15 key cities “The idea of the collection is about icons,” Krakoff said. “Brendan could take the number-two job where we will begin to open stores,” he said. “As those stores “We wanted to distill the iconic language of the brand.” at Kohl’s under Kevin Mansell [the 61-year old chairman and ceo], and eventually move up. He’s already been a ceo a couple of times, but this would be a bigger job than the one he had at Bon-Ton or Lord & Serena Williams Unveils Fall Line for HSN Taylor with an expectation of moving into the ceo role down the road.” Said one retail ceo: “Brendan is all step of the operation. “It’s my heart and about running large public businesses — By LISA LOCKWOOD soul. Even during the Open, I’m playing that’s what Brendan wants. He’s not so and I’m not only designing the clothes, but much about prestige merchandise.” NEW YORK — Fresh off her 18th Grand the hair and the makeup. I didn’t do all the There’s plenty of logic for Kohl’s tap- Slam title at this year’s U.S. Open, Serena jewelry because I had too many matches to ping Hoffman, principally his years of Williams presented her Serena Williams play. I have a wonderful team I’m working experience as ceo at Bon-Ton, Lord & Signature Statement Collection on the cat- with. I even chose the [for the show]. Taylor and Neiman Marcus Direct and walk Tuesday afternoon. I want to make sure there’s nothing too su- president of bergdorfgoodman.com. He The 22-piece fall collection of ponte leg- perfast but [it has] a little romance and a also ran the Last Call clearance division gings, quilted vests, draped car- little life and youngness to it,” of Neiman Marcus. He’s well-connected digans and quarter-sleeve maxi she said. with brands and designers, which Kohl’s blouses was immediately avail- Williams also cast all the needs to improve its offering, though able on HSN.com following the models, and decided to have a as the investment banker described runway show. Prices ranged from plus-size model end the show. Hoffman, “He’s more of a general busi- $29.90 to $79.90. “A lot of plus-size women are in ness guy than a product guy.” The 32-year-old Williams will love with our collection. It’s dif- With Kohl’s, Hoffman could spend a lot personally present the collec- ficult to find clothes. Yo u don’t of time in New York, where the retailer tion on HSN on Sept. 16. have to be a size zero to be the has its product-development operation, “I went to school for fash- most fabulous person you are. and stay closer to his family more often ion design,” said Williams, I’m not.…Whether you’re thin than he had while working for Bon-Ton. dressed in a leopard-print as can be or a little thicker like It won’t be easy for Hoffman to move jacket and black leather skirt. me, it doesn’t matter. It’s about on. For one, he would have to get out of “For years, I’ve been designing Serena Williams feeling good and looking good,” a non-compete agreement with Bon-Ton all my tennis clothes. I’ve been added Williams. not to work for a competitor until a year doing this particular collec- Separately from HSN, she’s after his departure. Plus, he may not want tion [for HSN] for five years. It isn’t over- working on a dress and eveningwear collec- to settle for a second-in-command slot and night. This is the first time we’re showcas- tion that will retail from $200 to $500. “I’ve instead sit back until the right ceo oppor- ing it in a fashion show.” always wanted to do something with wedding tunity arises, giving him more time with Williams said she had a meeting with one gowns, which is my dream,” said Williams, A look from his family. Hoffman left Bon-Ton saying of her manufacturers, and they decided they who plans to launch that in two years. the Serena he underestimated the toll the commut- needed to take it to a new level. “We sell out As for audience reaction at the show, Williams ing back and forth to New York took on his all the time. We need to bring high fashion at Caroline Wozniacki, whom Williams defeat- Signature wife and children. “I know that he and his great prices to the New York runway fashion ed in the U.S. Open finals 6-3, 6-3, offered up Statement RAMIREZ SANDY family are not big fans of Milwaukee,” said shows,” she said. her opinion: “I thought it was great.” Asked Collection one retailer. Despite her busy tennis schedule, if she’d like to do her own sportswear line, for HSN. Hoffman could not be reached for Williams said she is involved with every Wozniacki said, “Maybe someday. We’ll see.” PHOTOS BY comment.

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 WWD.COM Apple Gets Personal With Wearable Tech The Smart {Continued from page one} Competitors but not penetrated. If you look at total number of smartwatches that have been sold versus iPhones or , there are Apple Watch is just very few people who have them.” the latest to bring high He pointed to Samsung, Motorola tech to the wrist. and Intel getting into the space — but even though Apple’s release of the Apple Motorola’s Watch had such high expectations, there Moto 360. isn’t yet a competitive thread to these de- vices because the market is so immature. And the Samsung Gear range has been seen as somewhat of a disappointment, failing to ignite the excitement that its smartphones have and that caused Apple to introduce a larger-screen version of the iPhone. Blanter argued that more players would lead to more innovation in the space. “Everybody is still trying to figure out how to make a smartwatch a truly must- have device, rather than an interesting and curious novelty,” he noted. Motorola, for instance, revealed its first smartwatch last week, the $250 Moto 360, and it was touted as a modern timepiece where design came before the technology. Like Apple, Motorola took its time in entering the wearable category. “We realized that rather than de- signing the watch around existing technology, we should really take a step back and breathe and figure out what design we think it should be,” Motorola design director Dickon Isaacs told WWD last week.

Or as Will.i.am told WWD last month FELEZ/GETTY IMAGES OSCAR GALVAN on the launch of his eyeglass line ill.i Optics in talking about the wearables Pebble PHOTO BY category, “When you have things you put Smartwatch. on your body that have tech in them, you need to design them the way you would design things that didn’t have technology in them. That’s why we’re starting with the aesthetics, like the glasses. Then we will put the tech in it, but all the while, let’s start building the tech. Yo u have to work in two silos: tech and fashion. All the while you know they are going to marry.” Design was also a key consideration for Apple, as it has been for the brand since the first Mac appeared. Cook said the product will “redefine what people expect from a watch” — technologically and aesthetically. In ad-

dition to the ability to personalize the in- DONALD BOWERS/GETTY IMAGES FOR SAMSUNG terface, the watch comes in six versions JUSTIN SULLIVAN/GETTY IMAGES Samsung’s within three core collections: Apple Apple ceo Tim Cook introduces the Apple Watch. Watch, Apple Watch Sport and Apple Gear 2. PHOTO BY Watch Edition. The watch comes in a PHOTO BY small and large size. The sport version features a sweat- tools to help developers adapt existing share, it’s going to have to become a fash- your screen when the iPhone came out, and chemical-resistant sport band, a apps for the Apple Watch. ionable piece rather than a functional and this will be similar.” leather loop strap with a concealed mag- The company brings a good deal of piece,” Siegel cautioned smartwatches What’s most compelling for Sambar netic closure, a leather strap with a solid tech cred to the quickly growing smart- as a sector. is that Apple has created an entire plat- metal clasp and another leather strap watch arena. The tech firm has been bulking up its form that gives customers new ways to that has a classic timepiece buckle. As reported, a recent Citi Research executive ranks to bolster its fashion cred. interact in a retail environment. The Across the offering, there are styles report projected the smartwatch sector Apple hired former Yves Saint Apple Watch allows a consumer to con- that include a stainless-steel link brace- would balloon to $10 billion in 2018 from Laurent chief Paul Deneve as vice presi- firm a purchase via fingerprint with let option with a deployment clasp and $1.4 billion to $1.8 billion this year. And dent of special projects and former iTouch and now with the release of another version comprised of Milanese that’s just part of the wearable technology Burberry ceo as senior Apple Pay, there is a financial system loops that form a stainless-steel mesh market, which, as a whole, is projected to vice president of retail. Since coming and a platform that allows develop- strap. At the high end, there’s a version hit $30 billion in sales in four year’s time. to Apple, Deneve has brought on other ers and retailers to integrate this into that contains 18-karat yellow or rose “If the market is poised to expand former YSL employees to work on his their payment transactions. Target said gold elements. that rapidly, Apple is the only company team, including Europe president and Tuesday it would begin to use the system “[We’ve been] working on the Apple out there that people inherently trust as retail head Catherine Monier. Ahrendts as the discounter continues to imple- Watch a long time and we assembled it relates to bold new products like that. has made some hires of her own, includ- ment moves to overcome the hacking an amazing team to do so,” Cook said as This is a great first step for them,” said ing Musa Tariq, who joined last month as scandal that hit it last holiday season. he introduced Kevin Lynch, the lead on John Bowden, cofounder of private in- digital marketing director, Apple Retail, Apple Pay will come with every software efforts for the Apple Watch, who vestment network Coalition. leaving his post as Nike’s global direc- iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus and will be performed a demo. He admitted it might be difficult to tor of social media and community. Tariq available in the U.S. next month and He showed how the digital crown change the public’s perception of what was Ahrendts’ first digital marketing work with Apple Watch. works, a new navigation tool designed wearable tech can be, referring to the hire at Burberry, where he spearheaded The system doesn’t store a user’s cred- specifically for the device. He called Casio calculator watch from the Eighties. social media and worked on campaigns it-card number. Instead, a dynamic, de- the clock the watch’s “center of the But Bowden said if anyone can change such as “Art of the Trench.” vice-only account number is issued and universe,” with apps the user frequent- the view that “anything with a screen is Now the market will simply have to wait stored, so if one’s iPhone is lost or stolen ly uses all placed around the clock. inherently a little bit geeky,” it’s Apple. until next year to see whether massive the user can suspend payments. Credit- Rotating the crown will give an overview Simeon Siegel, executive director at lines form outside the Apple stores as they card data isn’t stored on the device. of all the downloaded apps. Wearers can Nomura Securities, looks at the smart- did when the first iPhone was introduced. While pitching the new pay system, choose the design of their watch face — watch category very much through a “It’s dramatic,” Al Sambar, retail strat- Apple executives took care to highlight a classic time stamp to any number of fashion lens. Over the past three years, egist at Kurt Salmon, said of the firm’s the company’s security after a string of themes — by touching the screen and ro- a skyrocketing accessories segment led entry into the smartwatch and wear- recent data breaches ruffled consumers, tating the digital crown. fashion watches to become an “It” item. ables space. “As sexy as the watch may including the posting of nude photos of Apple Watch users will be able to re- That, combined with brands wanting to be be, it’s the implications of the platform celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence. ceive and send text messages, access at the forefront of technology, will result and developer support that are the most “[Apple is] not in the business of photos, monitor activity and fitness, send in partnerships like Fossil and Intel or interesting part of this announcement. collecting your data,” said Eddy , a sketch, get directions and more. Also Google and Luxottica, according to Siegel. It’s going to support developers who are Apple’s senior vice president of Internet introduced was WatchKit, a series of “If it’s going to work for them and grab racing to innovate. It was a land rush for Software and Services Tuesday.

10 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 Vera Wang NewSpring 2015 Yo r k Oscar de la Renta Collections DESIGNERS EXPERIMENTED WITH PATTERN, AND EMBELLISHMENT — WITH DRAMATIC RESULTS — AS FASHION WEEK CONTINUED.

FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Oscar de la Renta: Optimism and light. these looks added to the buoyant spirit. France’s last queen led to a lineup of Rodarte: They’re back! Rodarte’s Kate Oscar de la Renta merged the two The fur trapeze coats were magical, dark romance that, though treading on and Laura Mulleavy burst into fashion with panache in his beautiful spring especially the sheared black mink with familiar Wang territory, was beautiful. with a gloriously peculiar take on collection. At once youthful and white tulip intarsia and the blue version That’s because she demonstrated the romance, as dreamy as it was dark lighthearted, it was packed with odes to stitched with a garden variety, which, right restraint in the way she treated and sometimes dangerous. Since nature and exquisite detail that in some like the rest of the collection, was of the her fabrics and adorned and layered then, they’ve struggled to translate cases — the furs — approached couture. enchanting kind. the clothes. Even the brocades felt their vision commercially, a square- To start, de la Renta used the buffalo appealingly somber. peg-round-hole situation. It has been check boldly, a blown-up version of the Vera Wang: The gravel covering the floor Wang opened the show with strong a challenge, one played out on their gingham that is becoming one of the at her venue reminded Vera Wang of tailored looks, including black wool recent runways as they resisted big trends of the New York season. His the Tuileries Garden. Although Marie blazers and coats that were trimmed revisiting the motifs that made their came in pink, light blue (or “Wedgwood,” Antoinette wasn’t known to frequent with passementerie details. This gave early work so special. as the run-of-show called it) and black; them, the designer was channeling her a regal feel, and bridal details such as However the designing sisters on casual coats, cropped tops, pencil for spring. As inspirations go, everybody tulle, ruffles, tiered ruching and pleats worked through that necessary turmoil, skirts and more. When he tucked one knows how this story plays out, but added to the refined sentiment. The spring played like a sartorial epiphany such blue silk and cashmere sweater the designer explored the theme with languid floral gowns that came with a expressed with clarity and guts. All in a clover guipure skirt, it was young a different viewpoint — “in a more gauze apronlike overlay were gorgeous. designers start from a core premise: the and modern. He accomplished the same abstract way, more her as a person,” The look subtly nodded at grunge, a Mulleavys’ is the creation and delivery effect for evening, with several cocktail she said backstage before the show. “I direction Wang had already explored for of beauty — a beauty that is weird, dresses and dreamy gowns delicately think Marie Antoinette feels a sense resort. If Marie Antoinette had shown unsafe and unmistakably theirs. This embroidered with flower motifs, some of freedom and , of structure such restraint, maybe she would have acceptance left them free to rethink the featuring contrast lining in zesty colors. and control. To me, she was also just a come to a different ending. development of their commercial side The precision and craftsmanship of massive fashion icon.” (relatively speaking), and they made WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 11 Rodarte Tor y Burch WWD.COM

strides in that direction, too. The designers’ starting point was tide pools and all of the glistening, mysterious materials and textures therein. Whether they were referencing the life aquatic of their California youth or of their verdant imaginations, no matter. They mined the waters and came out with dresses mesmerizing in their messiness: elaborate pastiches of hand-painted laces, tulles, netting and embroideries. They were exquisite. But life isn’t lived underwater, or after dark only. The Mulleavys showed an affinity (still nascent) for daywear their way: lovely ruffle-collared blouses that looked plenty sexy atop skintight jeans. They developed outerwear as well, which they envisioned, Laura said, on a girl standing on the pier watching the water. These came in sturdy olive canvas with wide netting on the sleeves, as if some chic flotsam had washed ashore on a wave of inventive practicality.

Tor y Burch: Quick: Name this generation’s Mary McFadden. Tory Burch doesn’t leap to mind? Read Burch’s show notes and think again. Like McFadden, Burch spins fanciful yarns about her seasonal inspirations (though never as Byzantine as McFadden’s) and funnels them through very specific, carefully considered aesthetic parameters. Thus, spring’s muse may have been CHINSEE Françoise Gilot basking in the glow of Provence and Picasso in the Fifties, but

GEORGE on Burch’s watch, Frannie got with the program. Which is not a bad program to join, having made its creator a person of fascination for the fashion and financial worlds — not to mention rich- soon-to-be-richer. Burch’s impermeable focus: Upbeat, appealing clothes that BY MITRA; POLO ROBERT appropriately harness the fashion moment. Right now, that means playing into the intricate-fabric obsession sweeping fashion, particularly at its most luxurious levels. Burch has taken that movement to her customer, via sensible delivery. “I just love easy elegance,” she said during a preview. This centerpiece of the collection BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; RODARTE was Burch’s savvy interpretation of la parisienne bohème. That meant pulled- together casual with abundant surface interest. Every look had something going on — jacquards, engineered prints, basket weaves, often in combination. At her feistiest, Burch went vibrant — multicolor, BY STEVE EICHNER; BURCH

BY fringed crochet top over marigold jacquard skirt; red-and-purple mélange sweater over silk skirt boasting the same knit pattern, but as a print. Subtler renderings subtracted color — a canvas dress with gray bar print. And when she really took a breather, it was with crisp whites — shirts

GIANNONI; WANG GIOVANNI and tunics — worn with fancy pants. And speaking of fancy, Burch embroidered a single huge splash of crystals onto a coat and skirt in humble natural linen for a smart take on razzle- PHOTO BY RENTA dazzle — and on the high-low dichotomy

DE LA she loves.

Polo for Women: Ralph Lauren made a major push for Polo’s women’s line Monday night by showing the spring collection on water, literally. Extending his ownership of 72nd Street to Central Park West, Lauren took over the lake at Cherry Hill to stage a very, very pricy four-dimensional cinematic event. Part water show, part video, it featured models walking through digitally re-created sections of New York, the latter projected against a screen of water shooting into the air, and ended with the moon rising to Frank Sinatra’s “Fly Me to the Moon.” It was quite a spectacle, enjoyed by a crowd that included Ben Stiller, Diane von Furstenberg and Barry Diller, , Ivanka Trump, Karlie Kloss, and the entire Lauren clan. As for the lineup, it was casual and sporty, with clothes that nodded at Lauren’s Americana heritage through a downtown lens. It included flirty white dresses, a yellow top-and-pants combination teamed with a plaid shirt, and a parade of finale dresses in all the colors of the rainbow. For the finale, the man himself, or more precisely, his hydro-holographic image, rose above all and did a little Fred Astaire move, while skimming atop the water. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014

Thom Browne Marc by Marc Jacobs Rag & Bone

SPRING 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Thom Browne: To commit to Thom Mondays, they start out in tailoring; Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge Larry Bell in the late Fifties and Sixties Browne’s level of showmanship is by the weekend, they like to be naked. that people seek out. Young, fierce in . The color and shine to need to tell a story. There was Through the garden came a procession and intense, the powerful attitude lent a sense of lightness, movement intrigue at first sight of his spring of each sister’s stylistic leanings, as established for fall gained momentum and euphoria to the lineup, a contrast set, a manicured sculpture garden — Browne blended his traditional tailoring for spring. It pulsed from the set, a to tough canvas utility gear and the real grass, real hedges — of human with a psychedelic floral motif. Classic triangular light installation in the vast schizophrenic compilations of casual statues wearing Browne’s sartorial silhouettes, such as Browne’s cropped dark openness of Pier 94, which shook staples — sweatshirts and T-shirts with interpretations of flowers, a butterfly men’s suit, tweed jackets and skirts, and with hard-core bass. graphics by Fergus Purcell, spliced with and lawn sports, identifiable by gigantic topcoats over full skirts, appeared in an No raves were actually attended pleated skirts and corsets. It’s a brand in headgear. (One model representing amazing escalation of treatments. in Hillier and Bartley’s research, but motion. badminton wore a hat shaped like a A tweed suit came in a mélange of they liked the idea of the freedom birdie.) At first, the incredible visual artful tatters. A stunning coat came in of that kind of low, EDM culture. Rag & Bone: After several seasons of stimuli projected playful youth and a melting patchwork of psychedelic “Taking something like a filthy, disused loading up their looks with layers, colors innocence. Then a whiff of perversion furs. Ye t another coat was made from warehouse and turning it into this and textures, designers David Neville hit the air as the models started to wilt feathers arranged meticulously in floral church of youth.” “Be who you are” and Marcus Wainwright wanted to give and cramp in their poses (for real) after patterns. It was a wow. One wondered would be the mantra of the spring the Rag & Bone collection a make- a prolonged delay. But there’s always what Browne’s production budget was. Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped under. They stripped down the styling, something twisted to Browne’s creative The techniques were fantastic, and, for T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel- understated the makeup, benched the madness. Whether it’s a turn-on or the most part, realistic when delivered blue polka-dot bandeau and matching and put the focus on the turnoff is the question. in shapes that could be classified as skirt, her hair twisted into a mohawk clothes and fabrics. “Everyone expects Here, surrealistic whimsy won normal. That’s not a word often bandied of mini-buns, she would be the you to do blazers and layering,” said out. Browne spared the audience any about in regard to Browne. confident nonconformist at the party — Wainwright. “I said, f--k it. I’m going to try guesswork regarding plotline by having intimidating but probably a lot of fun. to do something completely different.” the show narrated. “I’m going to tell Marc by Marc Jacobs: Energy — the driving The pastels and plastic treatments As a runway statement, mission you a story,” said a woman’s voice in force of the planet, whether it unites, — on dresses, legwear, molded bags accomplished — it was a deviation from the tone of a mother reading to her divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter and rubber boots — were culled from their recent runways and a fresh, clean child at bedtime. ’Twas the tale of six of three seasons, Katie Hillier and the Ferus Gallery, which represented perspective on the house standards of sisters who prefer to dress alike. On Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Craig Kauffman, Robert Irwin and tailoring and sport. Blazers and anoraks WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 13 WWD.COM

offered a beige cashmere twinset and Badgley Mischka Elie Tahari a full, flirty wool and cotton skirt and a blue silk shirtwaist. They went all out for night with beautiful fairy-tale gowns that mixed hard and soft fabrics — a combo Badgley and Mischka like for their silk organza and gazar gowns — in dusty florals with lavishly embellished torsos. They also showed sheer nude tulle gowns with gently fluttering tiers worn over sequined underpinnings — leotards and briefs — keeping in mind their customers for whom nude is decidedly not an option. The event marked the team’s 25th anniversary; on hand to celebrate was , who walked in the very first Badgley Mischka show.

Zac Posen: This season was going for an “inner Audrey Hepburn through the eyes of Marina Schiano doing Brancusi,” he said backstage. Posen successfully translated the idea into Givenchy-in-the-Fifties cocktail dresses, with a black strapless satin dress and a white cotton bustier look. To give the collection a modern touch, Posen used sculpted Neoprene on various exits. In juxtaposition to the heavy Neoprene, the designer offered several lightweight form-fitting dresses and gowns, often with English embroidery. Though he has left behind some of his theatrics, a Zac show wouldn’t be complete without a grand finale, this one with model Anna Cleveland hamming it up for the photographers in a red strapless mermaid dress, followed by another model in a black Neoprene number that used the female form as a basis for gown as sculpture — with a train that’ll bring out a girl’s inner Brancusi. The scuba fabric may be a tough sell; more successful were Posen’s pant-heavy day looks, with a black fitted jacket among the stronger pieces.

Elie Tahari: “High-tech bohemian shipwreck chic” is how Elie Tahari described his spring collection, which Zac Posen offered a fresh spin on summer staples. Riffing on his theme, the designer used fabrics that were weathered, bleached, Patrik Ervell worn and tattered, all suggesting they’ve been in the sun too long. Case in point: the burnout blue cotton-knit tank teamed with a saronglike skirt in a faded shirting fabric, a casual look shown with

BANICA a washed leather and knit jacket. Tahari also piled on leather fringe to RODIN add a “Pirates of the Caribbean” vibe, BY while ribbon mesh overlays read more futuristic than island castaway. The mesh also played prominently into Tahari’s own take on wearable tech, as on a little black dress adorned with multiple iPhones filming the crowd. It was gimmicky, but punctuated the TAHARI STEPHEN SULLIVAN; lineup with a nice touch of wit.

Cynthia Rowley: The Cynthia Rowley girl plays hard and works out hard — or likes to look like she does. So were cut away from the body in pure in Rowley’s spring collection, she lines and styled with tiny shorts or no presented party outfits galore. She pants at all. Undone belts and straps JOHN AQUINO; ROWLEY BY upped the fun factor by using silhouettes emphasized the easier, looser spirit of that referenced the swinging Sixties and the show. The palette was neutral, indigo, Seventies, including cutesy retro trapeze navy, white and soft green. dresses in graphic florals and flared The thing is, at retail, Rag & Bone is pants with matching tunics. Her athletic- a whole lot of blazers and denim, basic inspired separates had the same sense T-shirts and such. The natural fabrics of exuberance, the standout being a — mostly cotton — and simplicity of the black-and-white, mock-neck wet suit. runway were beautiful elevations of the core product. But it was hard to see Patrik Ervell: Patrik Ervell was clearly how they would infuse excitement into thinking outside the box this season, the commercial offering, which is what using household materials such as the runway is supposed to do. If this polyurethane and vinyl for his spring means that more show pieces, like the collection. sweatshirt dresses in ivory and white POSEN AND BADGLEY MISCHKA BY GIANNONI; GIOVANNI “It’s an excuse to experiment with terry — long, loose and improbably sexy very technical fabrics,” Ervell said — will make it to the stores, then bravo. backstage before the show. While the pieces were familiar — bombers, Badgley Mischka: Mark Badgley and James cropped raincoats and shorts — Mischka delivered plenty of glitz and FOR MORE SPRING the innovative fabrics led to more glamour in their spring collection for COVERAGE, SEE structured silhouettes and a modern Badgley Mischka. Day looks were dressy, look. The effort worked best in hooded like a bandeau with fluid silk pants and WWD.com/ raincoats and traditional mackintoshes. summer tweed jackets in flax and silk runway. The overall feel was very futuristic, but BY PHOTOS JACOBS AND ERVELL BONE, scattered with sequins and worn over Cynthia Rowley & when taken piece by piece, they can

sleek sheaths. For sportier fare, the boys RAG easily become part of the present. 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014

Diesel Black Gold Ovadia & Sons Zero + Maria Cornejo

SPRING 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Diesel Black Gold: “I wanted to take this Ovadia & Sons: Twin brothers Ariel and spring. “Because [the world] is in such from J. Crew’s women’s collections. What’s rockabilly girl and bring her into a New Shimon Ovadia continued to effectively chaos right now, I wanted to do clothes more interesting and unpredictable is Wave era — a late-Seventies, early- blend tailored clothing with athletic that are light and naïve; feminine without seeing which trends, whether emerging or Eighties moment,” said creative director references at Ovadia & Sons’ first being too girly,” she said. The best of widespread — get pulled from the ether Andreas Melbostad on his thought runway show. The sharp tailoring her collection for Zero had exactly that and sent to J. Crew’s stylistic boot camp. process for spring. He focused on the — a hallmark of the brand — was fresh, airy quality. Cornejo used a soft For spring, it was the artisanal touch, waist, which translated into crop and transformed with a variety of innovative palette of pale blue and pink for floaty the rough and nubby textiles of Peru and bra tops galore, starting with the show’s prints, such as a computer-generated asymmetric dresses. When she opted for Mexico, and the slouchy androgyny of opening look — a short, studded top houndstooth and creative floral pattern. navy, delicate layers of white and pale boyish basketball and boy shorts, a look paired with high-waisted trousers — and The same graphics were used on button- blue peeked from under hemlines. that has been on the runways of Marc it continued throughout the lineup with downs, shorts and sweaters. She moved into sportier territory with Jacobs, Public School and Baja East. All a series of belted dresses and skirts. Another highlight was the sleek a gray men’s wear fabric that surfaced of the latter have skewed edgy, while Tuxedo blazers offered a chic technical outerwear, including a in a long, full-cut shirtdress and short Tom Mora’s interpretations for J. Crew update on suiting options, particularly Neoprene-patent-leather jacket, a jumpsuit. The only odd note, a group were mixed with embroideries and bright one with red stripes, which provided nylon-blend trench and a neon-accented in scubalike foam-backed jersey, felt colors for a happy, friendly vibe. Mora’s a nice break from all the black. The raincoat with a silicone hood. “It’s jarringly aggressive given the collection’s lineup was very of-the-moment and he collection oozed sex appeal with a a clean, modern feel with a bit of an prevailing soft touch. gets credit for pushing his customer with hard edge, thanks to loads of leather, edge,” said codesigner Shimon. a stronger street component and maxing studs and lace-up details, though some J. Crew: Barring a total paradigm shift, out the men’s vibe. star-shaped studs and prints added a Zero + Maria Cornejo: For the most part, a mash-up of men’s wear influence and Frank Muytjens, men’s head designer, welcome sense of playfulness. Maria Cornejo took a gentle approach to traditional femininity is to be expected took a bohemian sailing trip for spring. WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 15 WWD.COM

J. Crew Timo Weiland MM6 Maison Martin Margiela

Reem Acra IANNACCONE THOMAS BY SONS & OVADIA BANICA;

FOR MORE SPRING RODIN

COVERAGE, SEE BY

WWD.com/ MM6 runway. AND

J. Crew ZERO CHINSEE;

Inspired by Mediterranean fishing villages, summery patterns, such as sand and white proportions — pieces were either oversize the solid lineup featured striped sweaters, stripes, decorating a textured jersey sporty or shrunken — but somehow it all worked GEORGE chambray pullovers and crushed bucket hats. hoodie, as well as a bright tropical motif, in a very animated way. BY

The color palette was taken from the which peppered a zippered windbreaker. ACRA

washed stucco walls and varying shades Reem Acra: According to her show notes, AND of ocean blue in the region, enhancing the MM6 Maison Martin Margiela: It was an Reem Acra looked at the French couturiers dreamy, relaxed sensibility of the offering. unexpectedly playful mix at MM6 Maison of the Twenties as inspiration for her Martin Margiela, as the design team worked spring collection. But something got lost WEILAND Timo Weiland: Now that their party-girl a culture clash between American pop and in translation. First of all, it’s unlikely customers are growing up, Timo Weiland’s traditional Japanese culture. The team Mesdames Madeleine Vionnet or Jeanne design trio — Weiland, Alan Eckstein and looked to the Old West for inspiration with Lanvin would have approved of the amount GIANNONI; Donna Kang — are embracing a more bandana prints, suede chaps, fringe jackets of skin revealed by Acra’s barely-there mature approach. Though it was less girly and a strong denim line, most noteworthy, a draped chiffon dresses in sorbet colors. GIOVANNI and more sensual, the collection still baggy cropped patchwork pant. The lineup also lacked cohesiveness, BY managed to be fresh and charming. Meanwhile, Obi belts over coats, quilted offering too many eveningwear options,

Elongated, narrow silhouettes took center vests and fluid satin suits and dresses gave from organza frocks that looked rigid PHOTOS stage, including an array of front-slit pencil a nod to Asian motifs. The house played to floral printed dresses that seemed CREW

skirts, which came in both knit and graphic with innerwear-as-outerwear references, of more dated than retro. Acra was more J. eyelet versions, matched with crop tops or note — and true to the Margiela aesthetic — convincing when she went for party languid chiffon pajama blouses. Injecting a was the slipdress worn under a translucent glamour, as with a metallic embroidered AND

beachy vibe, the designers also introduced baglike dress. The collection played with gown with a fun, disco feel. DIESEL 16 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 WWD.COM

Facebook will all be part of the And the Oxford Circus window full Unique collection, and the will also showcase a screen FASHION SCOOPS images are expected to showcase installation by Hellicar & Lewis, the detail of the designs. “I a -based design duo, believe that enabling Topshop’s which will display the show HILLARY’S TRUNK SHOW: Guests at noted that “96 elephants are fans to view key looks… stream and a mosaic Oscar de la Renta’s show Tuesday killed daily by poachers who before our industry FOR MORE of Topshop-centric each found a plush stuffed smuggle tusks to the global insiders is a real SCOOPS, SEE Instagram images. elephant on their seats with black market for use in luxury revolution — and one From Friday, the a letter about the threat of goods and trinkets.” The former that we are proud to WWD.com screens will show The Coach backstage logo. elephant extinction signed by secretary of state was not in the pioneer,” said Topshop a changing grid of Hillary Rodham Clinton and daughter crowd. She is expected to return owner Sir Philip Green. images, both from allow customers on the street Chelsea. The not-so-subtle irony to the pivotal state of Iowa this And in another bid to upturn the Instagram feeds of outside the window to move of one of the country’s leading weekend for outgoing Sen. Tom runway convention, Topshop will five individuals that Topshop and manipulate the mosaic of Democrats giving away Harkin’s annual Steak Fr y, a key offer six pieces from the runway has selected for their own images on the screens, using hundreds of elephants was not event for the Iowa Democratic for customers to buy immediately distinctive Instagram accounts, their arm and hand movements. lost on the crowd. Party. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG after the show — for delivery and from customers around — NINA JONES Taken literally, the Clintons, straight away, rather than the world who use the hashtag who typed their missive on VIVA ITALIANO: Brad Pitt and SWEET MUSIC: Coach is getting Bill, Hillary & Chelsea Clinton Angelina Jolie went full-on Italian into the music game. Less than for their wedding on Aug. 23 at a week after the brand’s spring Chateau Miraval, the vineyard runway show, held Sunday, the estate they own in the south brand is launching its latest of France. As reported, the project, Coach Backstage. The actress wore a custom Atelier global initiative will support Versace gown, while Salvatore emerging music artists through Ferragamo disclosed Tuesday several components, including that Pitt wore a look by the a digital music chart to be Florence-based fashion house featured on coach.com. There, for the occasion. The actor users can access artist bios picked a navy blue, two-button, and selected tracks, updated notch lapel suit with a double weekly. Additionally, Coach will vent. But Ferragamo didn’t sponsor a number of concerts design it just for the occasion: featuring the up-and-coming Pitt picked it out of his own musicians, beginning this closet. — LUISA ZARGANI evening with the initiative’s launch event at New York’s SOCIAL CIRCLE: Topshop has Irving Plaza. For the official a track record of bringing its launch, Coach has tapped both The elephant at Oscar de la Renta. runway shows directly to its Lolawolf, the New York-based customers and now, for its A rendering of the Topshop display. rock band fronted by , Foundation letterhead, Topshop Unique spring show, and fashion week ubiquitor encouraged “friends” to join the the retailer is looking to social preorder — at the Oxford Circus #TopShopWindow. Banks to perform. The brand Wildlife Conservation Society, media. It will showcase a store and on topshop.com. The five Instagram users will will continue to expand the The Nature Conservancy and selection of looks solely on its The show will be live- also have behind the scenes Coach Backstage initiative over Conservation International in page, rather than streamed Sunday at 3 p.m. in access at Topshop in the run the coming year, with details spreading the word by using introducing them on the runway. London on Topshop’s Web site up to the show and the Oxford and specifics still in the works. #SaveElephants. The trio also The looks that appear on and at its Oxford Circus store. Circus screens’ technology will — LAUREN MCCARTHY

shows, Zee has always cultivated the Josh Wolk for entertainment, David Pogue why he jumped from print to digital, and built-in audience that already existed for technology, Matt Bai for news, Sarah specifically why to Yahoo. “What was the MEMO PAD in those places. Now he is faced with McColl for food, Michele Promaulayko for most attractive thing to me coming here — bringing fashion readers to Yahoo, health and Katie Couric as global anchor. yes, was the creative freedom — but also OMEN OR GLITCH?: Yahoo’s new Style which is largely seen as an aggregator Yahoo previously tried and failed at the audience. It’s huge,” he said. “This is channel headed by Joe Zee launched last of disparate newsy tidbits and a search a similar endeavor, Yahoo Shine, the sort of the ultimate in storytelling. Look week and set out to make a big splash engine that lags behind Google. Typical fashion and lifestyle site that it closed and at the audience. It’s free. It’s accessible during New York Fashion Week, which features might include denim stories, repurposed this year. Staffers from Shine to everybody and it’s accessible no Zee termed the site’s “Super Bowl.” If but for every budget and different body are split up among the new magazines, as matter where you are. Yo u can look at my so, there was a fumble Tuesday when the types, as well as a large component of Mayer gives the content game another go. magazine if you just tap on your phone. It’s channel tried to live-stream for six hours original content for sponsors (native Some have put the shelf life of her literally one click away.” from The James Hotel overlooking the advertising, anyone?). During a recent digital magazine project at two years, and Despite his enthusiasm, when asked Hudson River. As Zee chatted with Veronica pitch meeting, Zee and his team talked noted that the company is investing a lot how long he has to turn Yahoo Style Webb and cohost Katharine Zarrella of Style. about doing dating-profile makeovers for into its future, not just with new hires, but into a destination for content, and not com, the sound of wind ruffled the mikes. a partnership with Tinder and OkCupid, also with technology. It’s renovating a new just an aggregator of it, Zee’s seemingly As for the picture — it was fine if someone for example. Rewriting dating profiles space on 43rd Street and 8th Avenue — The permanent grin faded. was viewing the live-stream on a mobile and giving women makeovers is certainly New York Times’ old building — which will “Are they throwing me out?” he said. phone or using the browsers Chrome or a mainstream idea that could hit with a become its headquarters in 2015. “Look, I don’t think we are going to do Firefox. Otherwise? Blackness. broader audience. The investment comes at a time desperate things to get a click. People Some might view it as an ominous Luring readers to Yahoo is exactly when Yahoo’s earnings and revenue are know — Marissa included — that it’s going start — especially for a company out to part of a broader challenge for the tech slipping due to the firm’s struggle with to take a minute.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD prove its chops in both content display advertising sales. In the and tech. second quarter ended June 30, PAPER ROUTE: “Haute Off the Press,” Admittedly, it’s early days yet Yahoo earned $269.7 million, down screams the headline in The Karl Daily, a for Yahoo Style, which Zee said from $331.2 million in the year-ago newspaper Karl Lagerfeld plans to distribute he aims to use to “democratize period. Revenue fell 4.7 percent to on Sept. 20 in the seven European cities fashion.” Over the summer, he left $1.08 billion from $1.14 billion. After where he operates freestanding stores his perch at Hearst Magazines’ commissions to ad partners, Yahoo’s for his signature brand. Distribution is to Elle, where he served as creative revenue slid 3 percent and totaled follow in the following weeks in China, director, to come to Yahoo, where $1.04 billion. Yahoo’s share price with copies also landing in select stores, he was crowned editor in chief probably would have been under hotels and other cool spots. and executive creative officer of immense pressure if it weren’t for Sprinkled amidst articles about the Yahoo Style, as well as editor at the fact that the company has a 22.4 designer’s workaholic nature and far-flung large of Yahoo Beauty. percent stake in Alibaba, which is collaborations are news tidbits about The move has allowed Zee to just about to embark on the road various Lagerfeld product lines — candles, speak to Yahoo’s vast audience show for one of the biggest initial watches, fragrances and leather goods. and give them access to the public offerings in history. Yahoo is A comic strip, street-style photos and a world of fashion that he has reportedly selling 140 million shares, list of hot spots round out the “satirical” inhabited for more than two or about 27 percent of its stake, in broadsheet, which carries four pages of decades. During the live-stream A photo from Yahoo Style’s cover shoot on Jessica Biel. the planned Sept. 18 IPO. advertising for Lagerfeld brands. Tongue- — and in recurring segments on In the second-quarter conference in-cheek elements include fictional Yahoo Style — people were encouraged giant and its chief executive officer call to investors, Mayer insisted digital personals and Choupette, the couturier’s to submit questions via social media and president Marissa Mayer, who has magazines are one of the “driving pet cat, serving as guest editor and reporter. or tweet to the Yahoo team to join the banked a considerable amount of time forces” behind its display business, The newspaper dovetails with conversation. This will actually be a large and money to create content through especially its “native ad inventory.” She Lagerfeld’s fall campaign picturing part of Zee’s overall editorial strategy, he its digital magazines. Case in point: noted: “Our digital magazine verticals model Kati Nescher posing in a mock said, explaining that he hopes to attract a It’s recruited a gaggle of bold-faced are increasingly becoming attractive stuffed with copies of The Karl new audience this way. names, creating a masthead of what placements for brand advertisers eager to Daily. It will also be backed with window That could prove challenging. Coming some have likened to the “Avengers” see themselves next to premium content.” displays, contests and digital components from Elle and the entertainment world, of media. Recent hires include Bobbi This is where Zee comes in. In his on social media and Karl.com. where he has hosted various television Brown for beauty, Paula Froelich for travel, bright but small office, he talked about — MILES SOCHA

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MILAN PREVIEW Shopping arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is being revamped with the help of Prada and Versace, which will unveil its flagship in that location during fashion Cloudy With a Chance of Luxury week. Kicking off with Gucci on Wednesday, the week wraps up on Sept. 21 with Marni, which marks By LUISA ZARGANI its 20th anniversary with a special charity installation of artful proj- MILAN — Chiaroscuro. ects, and Ferragamo, which is also It is a season of “light and launching a fragrance on Sept. 19. dark,” as the curtain rises on As reported, Giorgio Armani, who Milan Fashion Week Sept. 17. for several seasons had been clos- Italy’s luxury industry continues ing fashion week, moved his show to grow, fueled by exports — yet ahead, to Sept. 20. it is also slowed by a sputtering Among the news on the run- local economy. Economic sanc- ways are Jil Sander’s first col- tions against Russia over the lection designed by Rodolfo crisis in Ukraine cast an addi- Paglialunga, and Giambattista tional cloud of uncertainty going Valli unveiling his Giamba line. forward, but industry executives Jane Reeve, ceo of Milan’s remain upbeat about prospects. Chamber of Fashion, ex- “Our business is luxury and it’s pressed satisfaction with the always been subject to geopolitical “well-spread out” schedule tensions, but it continues to grow,” of young designers’ shows said Michele Norsa, chief execu- and the “increased visibility” tive officer of Salvatore Ferragamo they achieved. For example, SpA. “We should not focus on spe- Angelos Bratis, who will pres- cific political situations, but opti- ent at Armani’s theater, as mize business globally.” well as Stella Jean and Andrea “I am not worried about the Incontri, are positioned ahead effect of wars because if you Versace is unveiling its latest flagship of Gucci on Sept. 17, and Marco consider more than 2,000 years at Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle. De Vincenzo has a slot just be- of history, this is one of the most fore Etro the following day. peaceful moments in the world in “Fashion is an exercise in general,” said Brunello Cucinelli. $80 billion at current exchange. with Hong Kong up 9.6 percent, space. In the first half, group reve- stretching and we are work- “Obviously, with seven billion However, the study urged “more as well as the U.S., up 11.6 per- nues rose 6 percent, to 659 million ing on having an international people around the world, there flexibility in the economic poli- cent. Hurt by the growing ten- euros, or $902.8 million, compared perspective, with additional will always be confrontations, cies in Europe,” and a change in sions, sales in Russia dropped with the same period last year. side events and more closely in- but I cannot think that those who the growth rate, as revenues are 11 percent. Japan was also down The executive was also upbeat volved with the city,” Reeve em- write up their companies’ bud- forecast to climb only 1.2 percent 6 percent. The research expects about the agreement between phasized. “We are doing things gets would not take a crisis in in the first half of 2015. Exports improvements in the third quar- airline companies Alitalia and that open up to the city.” some country into account.” in 2014 are expected to gain 4.8 ter and a slowdown in the last Etihad, which is expected to im- Cases in point: short films from As reported, Cucinelli’s percent to 47.4 billion euros, or three months of the year. plement direct flights and “bring the first Fashion Film Festival namesake company posted rev- $61.3 billion, but only 1.8 percent Norsa said he was “still very visitors directly to Italy.” Another Milano will run throughout the enues of 175.8 million euros, or in the first half of 2015. positive about China,” where important element, he said, is the week, and Renzo Rosso will de- $239 million, in the first half of The industry’s performance the company is seeing double- Expo, to be hosted in Italy in the liver a lecture on Sept. 21 at the 2014, up 11.6 percent compared in the second quarter this year digit growth, supported by sec- spring. “We will see a positive Expo Gate to about 70 students on with the same period last year. was defined as “disappointing,” ond- and third-tier cities, and, contribution starting this fall and supporting young talents as part According to the Fashion with sales up 3 percent and while conceding the situation in for the year to come.” of Gateway to Fashion Future. It’s Economic Trends report com- below expectations. Leather Russia is “delicate,” with a do- To wit, Milan is getting a make- open to the public and conceived piled by Italy’s Chamber of goods and apparel performed mestic impact and, even more over gearing up for the Expo — a by Expo Gate in partnership with Fashion, the country’s textile, better than textiles and footwear. on travelers, he was “positive in city-wide international event fo- the Chamber of Fashion, and will clothing, leather goods and foot- In the first four months of the the medium range.” cused on nutrition and promoting showcase collections by designers wear industry is expected to re- year, exports grew 5 percent, The Florence-based com- Italian culture, arts, food, indus- from the most prestigious fashion port a 4.2 percent rise in sales in showing an acceleration in the pany has not stopped investing trial know-how and, of course, schools. “We asked him as he is a 2014, mainly boosted by exports, EU, which was up 7 percent. in Russia, as it just reopened its fashion — with construction sites great speaker and a great entre- for a total of 61.9 billion euros, or China continued to be strong, Moscow boutique, doubling its sprouting throughout the city. preneurial example,” said Reeve.

Callens Piazza multibrand boutiques and department Sempione Ones to Watch stores across Europe and the Middle and Far East starting in February. Then, A new player and the return of the label will launch in the U.S. a veteran. By Alessandra Turra PIAZZA SEMPIONE CALLENS Piazza Sempione is returning to Claire-Anne Stroll, the wife of fashion Milan Fashion Week with an artistic industry tycoon Lawrence Stroll, is partnership, and will present at the gearing up to launch her women’s brand, Spazio Bigli on Sept. 20. Callens, Sept. 19. The fashion label, which last year “A couple of years ago, everyone was acquired by Italian apparel I knew was constantly reaching for manufacturer Sinv SpA, will present their workout clothing in the morning, a spring collection in collaboration regardless of whether or not they were with the Museum of Modern and training, and I did the same,” said Contemporary Art of Trento and Stroll, explaining the concept behind Rovereto. Piazza Sempione’s design the label. “With the Callens collection, team teamed up with the museum to I want to create a wardrobe that can study the works of Italian futuristic be worn all day long, and give women artist Fortunato Depero and translate the opportunity to dress in a balance some of his paintings into prints. between sports and fashion, where Focusing on “Rotations of Ballerina performance meets elegance.” and Parrots,” which Depero painted in In keeping with Stroll’s intention, 1918 for a puppet show in Rome, the creative director Paul Helbers brand created sophisticated pigment designed daywear incorporating prints on feminine, easy-to-wear pieces. activewear influences for a chic, These include a fresh, flared skirt relaxed look. The collection includes matched with a striped top; a canvas a range of polo shirts, biker jackets, summer coat paired with straight-lined sweatshirts, track pants and cashmere pants, as well as a black-and-white apron knits, all worked in high-end fabrics dress worn over a clean white shirt. and manufactured in Italy. Tops and trousers will retail at To complete the offer, Helbers about $700 and $550, respectively, designed accessories such as sneakers while dresses will range between $900 and handbags. and $1,600. Retail prices range from 200 euros, or Piazza Sempione retails in 280 stores $258 at current exchange, for activewear, around the world, including Saks Fifth to 1,200 euros, or $1,550, for the most Avenue and Neiman Marcus in the U.S., elaborate outerwear. The first Callens a market that accounts for 50 percent of collection is expected to hit high-end the label’s total business. Special sets the standard.

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Fuel consumption combined: 11.9–9.4 l/100 km; combined CO₂ emissions: 279–219 g/km. 20 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 Luxury in China: An Analyst’s View your goods. Chinese do not want to buy dominated by Japanese consumption, they is my competitor if I’m Gucci — is far By MILES SOCHA brands they see as being developed are now driven by the Chinese. from the consumer’s reality. So yes, for them — some brands may have Apple, travel, Zara, cosmetic surgery PARIS — Is the recent slowdown in penetrated the Chinese market too WWD: Any fundamental differences and more are competing with luxury. Chinese consumption of luxury goods a quickly or aggressively and will be seen with Japan? Discretionary spending is a small part worrisome omen, or simply a tiny fissure as being “Chinese” brands. Chinese E.R.: Yes. Chinese look at luxury of the consumer’s wallet and luxury in a great wall of future opportunity? consumers tend to not want to purchase purchases as a way to stand out of brands don’t get all of it. HSBC equity analyst Erwan Rambourg Chinese brands if given an alternative. the crowd. Japanese looked at the is definitely of the latter school of space as a way to fit in. Also, Chinese WWD: Do you have any predictions thought, arguing that currency swings and WWD: What other windows of consumption was initially male-driven about which countries or cities are best shifting travel patterns may be behind opportunity do you spy? while Japanese consumption still positioned long-term to benefit from recent trends. He’s also adamant that remains predominantly driven by the Chinese tourist flows? many observers have exaggerated the so-called “office lady” or “pink-collar E.R.: Wealthy Chinese will have impact of the anticorruption campaign worker.” Finally, Japanese purchases been to Europe and Hong Kong. The initiated by the Xi-Li administration are incrementally local, Chinese destinations that can benefit most from in China back in 2012. He does allow, purchases tend to take place more and the incremental Chinese outbound travel though, that corporate gifting has taken a more abroad could be farther destinations, more hit, dampening consumption of high-end ’’ exotic ones, those where regulation has watches and spirits. WWD: Everyone talks about how been easing lately and those presenting “But the fundamentals of growth — sophisticated the Chinese consumer is cultural interests. These include the middle-class expansion, greater access becoming. How do you account for that? U.S., Korea, Taiwan and Macau, with to travel, lack of local substitutes, E.R.: The Chinese are learning fast Dubai, Australia and Thailand among greater female participation in luxury with travel, blogs and forums and their possible new, exotic discoveries. goods purchasing — are intact,” said level of awareness and knowledge are Rambourg, who elaborates on his soaring. I think you don’t hear much WWD: Do Chinese luxury consumers confidence in China in a new book, “The about the other BRIC countries, as they most resemble European consumers, Bling Dynasty,” published by Wiley and are less relevant for many reasons. Americans, Russian or any other due out later this month in Asia and the nationality? following month in Europe. WWD: What are some of those reasons? E.R.: Where Chinese consumers are While organized like a textbook, E.R.: Russia is an extreme market in the different — apart from the fact that they and thoroughly researched, Rambourg sense that elites are very wealthy, but it are increasingly female now, as apposed adopts an engaging, conversational involves very few people. Brazil’s middle to being male-dominated initially — is in tone to explain the complexities of the class may have triggered consumers their age. They will be 10 years younger market and the consumer mind-set. to trade up from cachaça to imported than their European counterparts and A Frenchman who relocated to Hong Chinese still want to vodka or whisky, but Swiss-made high- 15-plus years younger than luxury Kong in 2011 as managing director and end watches or fancy Italian leather consumers in the U.S. co-head of HSBC’s global consumer handbags are still largely out of reach. Chinese are becoming closer to the and retail equity research, Rambourg fit in and display social The way Indian nationals view brands American luxury consumers, looking has witnessed the emergence of a new and Western luxury is unique as there for value for money, starting to embrace luxury Eldorado from close proximity. status, but have moved are homegrown substitutes. Raw material outlets in a small way, and cognizant of According to his estimates, Chinese quality can be seen as a more important what price they should be paying for consumers will drive 35 percent of global away from the more attribute than branding or fancy designs. any given product. At the same time, luxury sales in 2015 and will account for American consumers are becoming more than half of purchases by 2025. WWD: Are European brands still king more like the Chinese, and letting go of In a wide-ranging conversation with ubiquitous, obvious with Chinese luxury consumers? the idea of quiet money. They’re moving WWD, Rambourg shared his insights: E.R.: Obviously French and Italian brands from a culture of value-for-money to brands that initially have often a history, a cachet and a a culture where it’s more acceptable WWD: Your book seems to be targeted storytelling power that set them apart. The to reward yourself, and to trade up to at doubters about China’s long-term shaped the market. preferences are changing quickly though, premium brands and products. potential. Are there still a lot out there? and the market is crowded. British-ness Erwan Rambourg: Some brand managers — ERWAN RAMBOURG, HSBC is associated with music, a rebel attitude, WWD: Is it a real misnomer to talk about have taken the view that future growth a certain coolness associated to London, China as one market? will come with other nationalities which has undoubtedly helped a brand E.R.: Indeed, there is not one China market than the Chinese. Part of this could be E.R.: Via travel, Chinese are discovering like Burberry gain traction. Speaking either as pockets of wealth emerge in wishful thinking as it will be reassuring a broader array of brands and in soft of cool, I am a great believer in the rosy different areas. Who would have thought for them to have the impression they are luxury — handbags, apparel, accessories future of both American and Korean it made sense to open stores in Ürümqi, having eggs in many baskets rather than — they are realizing that there are brands in China. In the book, I mention the whereas some cities are over-retailed, like risking Chinese overdependence. cheaper alternatives to the traditional example of Starbucks as being a surprising Chengdu and Shenyang. French and Italian brands, whether success especially WWD: Is the anticorruption crackdown American or Korean. as there seems to be WWD: Which statistics still a factor, or old news? In my view, imported jewelry is the strong, quasi-scientific did you uncover about E.R.: There was a steep slowdown in 2013, up-and-coming category from the West evidence that Chinese China that made you notably on high-end watch sales and the as Chinese consumption becomes more do not like coffee. look twice? bigger brands. Today, it’s fair to consider female driven and self-pu’’rchasing Being an American E.R.: Only 4 percent of that the bulk of the cleanout is behind us habits develop on top of the traditional brand helps. Outside of Chinese citizens hold a and there are currently signs of a slight consumption for the big life events — the classic definition of passport. That means pick-up in watch demand in China. Now weddings, births, etc. — for which the luxury, Korean brands Chinese outbound travel growth has become the reflection of well-established Hong Kong and China are probably the is in its infancy. People true underlying sales driven by personal jewelers selling gold and jade should ones that trigger the complaining about long gifting and self-purchasing. remain dominant. most excitement from queues outside luxury Chinese consumers and shops in Milan or Paris WWD: Did luxury pioneers in China win WWD: Are there brands that are already the so-called Korean better get used to it. The a clear competitive advantage? at risk of ubiquity in China? And what wave is not at all a fad future of luxury will be E.R.: Omega created the Chinese high- exactly are the risks of ubiquity? in my view. Whether in about service, customization end watch segment. Similarly, Louis E.R.: Louis Vuitton or Gucci have been cosmetics, smartphones, and being nimble. Vuitton created the handbags and seen as too ubiquitous, with consumers autos, leather goods, accessories market. These companies commenting along the lines of “you’re food, sportswear and WWD: How soon do you have thus benefited from the better my mother’s brand; you’re a brand for more, the Koreans think homegrown brands locations, the better rent terms — having secretaries; I’ve seen you too much.” should exert a greater can be a challenge to an anchor-tenant status — and great The issue of weariness weighs on the influence on Chinese foreign brands? recruitment potential with the up-and- brand appeal and its pricing power. It’s consumption. With the The cover of E.R.: Brands of Chinese coming middle class. what I call the French paradox in the exception of Swiss-made “The Bling Dynasty.” origin suffer from Chinese The issue now with more-traveled, book: Wanting to sell what is supposed watches, the importance citizens having a negative knowledgeable Chinese consumers is to be exclusive is a fundamental of the “made in” is waning. perception of products made in China and that pioneers are the victims of a sort of puzzle. There are ways to re-create the feeling that purchasing imported products “first-mover disadvantage.” Chinese still illusion (or even the reality) of scarcity WWD: Do personal luxury goods in China is a status enhancer. Chinese brands want to fit in and display social status, to regain those weary consumers but compete for consumer dollars with other can be successful, but there will need but have moved away from the more it’s a long and painful journey on discretionary categories — travel, home to be time and patience and dedicated ubiquitous, obvious brands that initially which both Louis Vuitton and Gucci furnishings, technology — as they do in management teams to overcome hurdles. shaped the market. have embarked. more-mature markets? One of the insights uncovered while E.R.: The first time I went to Korea, I interviewing Chinese consumers is WWD: Is it too late for brands to enter WWD: In what ways are there similarities asked a luxury brand manager who the threat that Korean-origin brands China now? with Japan’s development? his biggest competitor was and he may eventually pose to the traditional E.R.: It’s not too late. If your brand is E.R.: Chinese have adopted the same brands answered “cosmetic surgery.” I initially Western brands. There is a lot to say legitimate in your home market and that are successful in Japan. Cognac was thought it was a joke, but I very quickly about the origins and the future of this you stay true to your values, Chinese big in Japan, it then became big in China. realized that budget competition is a phenomenon…but that would probably could well have an interest to purchase Louis Vuitton’s sales just 10 years ago were reality and thinking in silos — Vuitton take another book.

WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 21 WWD.COM

Fashion’s New Favorites: The K-Wave {Continued from page one} government keeps throwing money at it, of K-Wave stars to fashion’s front rows. “[Being affiliated with Korean celebri- “Particularly look out for the singer the Korean Wave will continue.” With fashion and luxury brands com- ties is] a way for fashion houses to show G-Dragon, the way’’ that he dresses is al- The K-Wave, which first hit Korea’s peting for big-spending Asian — and par- they are in touch with the Asian mar- ready influential and will only become neighbors in China, Japan, Hong Kong ticularly Chinese — consumers, many are ket, and the diverse faces of Asia — with more influential. He’s like an Elton John and Taiwan a decade ago, saw the export looking for any advantage they can get. Chinese models fronting brands, and or Ziggy Stardust figure,” Hong said. of K-Pop music, soap operas Korean celebrities attending fashion G-Dragon and Taeyang of boy band and films beyond Korea for shows, for example,” Roll added. Big Bang fame have both been spotted the first time. This regional Even with the emergence of at Kenzo shows in Paris in the past, and influence exploded world- Korean celebrities as influencers the brand’s creative director, Humberto wide with the unexpected on the global fashion scene, it Leon, has long been a fan of what he appearance of Psy and his remains to be seen whether calls the “great individual taste and “Gangnam Style” in 2012. In K-Wave can possibly have the style” of Korean celebrities. its aftermath, fashion houses same impact in the West as “It’s definitely very daring what they the world over are taking no- it has enjoyed in the rest of wear, but they are also able to have fun tice of the aura of cool ema- Asia — where shared cul- with it. What [K-Wave celebrities] are re- nating from Korea. tural values and beauty ally good at is mixing different genres of “Not that long ago, Asia was ideals resonate. regarded as a purely consum- “I doubt the Korean er market, but not as a trend- Wave will ever really trans- setting region. Now I think late to the U.S. in a big way,” Korea’s decision to we are realizing that Asia is Euny Hong said, though she be- bringing a lot of good stuff to lieves it might have a brighter become a world leader the table,” business and brand future in Western Europe. strategist Martin Roll said. Roll, meanwhile, sees Cindy Hahn, executive di- Korean celebrity culture in fashion is part of rector of New York’s Concept and fashion following Korea show, which showcases brand successes, such as a package deal to emerging Korean designers, Samsung, LG and Hyundai has seen plenty of big fash- into Western conscious- become world leaders ion names embracing the ness. “I think it’s the nation’s celebrities. “Gucci, Hyuna natural next step. It will Louis Vuitton, Prada — these take time, I don’t neces- in popular culture. big brands invite Korean ce- sarily think it will resonate — EUNY HONG lebrities to their main shows immediately; it’s something because by inviting Korean that will happen over time. I celebrities to fashion weeks think the potential worldwide clothing. I think they really understand in Milan and Paris, they are is huge, because the K-Wave what streetwear is,” he said. using that celebrity power hasn’t really arrived in Europe According to Hong, Korea’s cultural and influence,” she said, add- and the U.S. yet — but it will.” exports have been deliberately (and ag- ing that she believes the trend CL Leon, who at his trendset- MYUNG-GU/WIREIMAGE

gressively) pushed by the Korean govern- will lead to Western consum- ting multibrand store Opening HAN

ment’s well-funded Ministry of Culture, ers embracing Korean fashion Ceremony put a focus on BY and having an impact on the fashion and design. “K-Pop has huge pulling power Korean designers for a year in world was always part of their plan. “Korean celebrities, a long time ago, in Asia. The Chinese market espe- 2012, agreed. “Their global ap- HYUNA “Korea’s decision to become a world they only liked the famous American and cially exuberantly follows K-Pop peal has grown,” he said, add-

leader in fashion is part of a package deal European brands, but young Korean de- artists and their style as they have ing: “Bands such as Big Bang are EICHNER; to become world leaders ’’in popular cul- signers are now leveraging the success an enormous interest in what artists able to sell out Madison Square ture. They always wanted to do film and from being featured in the dramas and wear and actively purchase those Garden, so I would say, yes, they STEVE television and so forth, but fashion was al- being worn by Korean celebrities.” products,” Korean designer Juun.J, have [what it takes].” BY

ways on the list,” she said. “Everything fol- As well as its cool factor, there is also who Korean celeb fans include — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM PAULINA SZMYDKE PHOTO

lows the money and as long as the Korean a commercial element to the introduction both Taeyang and G-Dragon, said. CL

OBITUARY the U.S. passed the Displaced Persons custom-tailored, are essentially soft and

Act, agreeing to take in hundreds of feminine through the best wholesale thousands of the stateless. The rechris- skill. I welcome most of all the new im- tened Wacs family, Maurice, Helen and petus to shaping for true elegance.” The Ilie Wacs, 86 Deborah, ended up in New York. Ilie company closed two years later; Wacs Wacs joined them in Manhattan, becom- then spent several years as the head de- COAT AND SUIT DESIGNER, painter ing a sketch artist for the suit house signer for Originala. In the late Sixties, and memoirist Ilie Wacs died Sept. 7 in Philip Mangone,’’ then a designer at Seventies and Eighties, the coats and Manhattan at age 86. Seymour Fox, where he spent six years. suits he created, for Originala or under The cause of death was cancer. At 19, Deborah married the late Ed his own name, often appeared in the He was born in Vienna on Dec. 11, Strobin, who helped launch the Banana pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, The 1927, the only son of Moritz and Henia Republic stores. Wacs credited his own New York Times and other publications. Wachs; his sister, Deborah, was nine wife, the former Sylvia Silverstein, for Wacs was known for his fitted or fit-and- years younger. Moritz was a Romanian- much of his success. She handled his flare coats in vibrant colors with clean born tailor, a World War I deserter and financial affairs, personally and profes- lines and simple cuts. a stateless person; Henia was a milli- sionally. “I didn’t even know what our In 2012, Wacs observed that one ben- ner and former beauty queen originally rent was,” he told WWD in 2012. In 1977, efit of his remarkable background was from Poland. Just as World War II began, she insisted that they needed to buy an that “a patternmaker couldn’t tell me the family left Vienna for Italy, then apartment, and found a light-filled one that something couldn’t be done when took the last ship to Japanese-occupied on Central Park West for $200,000. She I knew that it could.” He added of liv- Shanghai — the only place in the world died of breast cancer when she was in ing in Shanghai, “In retrospect, it wasn’t at the time willing to accept refugees her early 50s. bad living in a culture that was totally without restrictions. On his 70th birthday, alien to us. We came there with only the Wacs visited the Holocaust Museum in clothes on our backs.” Washington, D.C., with his sister, philan- IANNACCONE Wacs became an artist after closing thropist Deborah Strobin, and his daugh- Ilie Wacs With the contrast his fashion company. In November 2013, ters Maris and Darin. In a small exhibit THOMAS in 2012. on the 75th anniversary of Kristallnacht, devoted to the Jewish ghetto in Shanghai, BY of tailored but soft his collection of paintings, called “The Deborah saw a photo of one of her child- Vienna Papers, 1938,” was shown at the PHOTO hood friends; then she saw herself. technique, I want to hit Simon Wiesenthal Center at New York’s Wacs’ and Strobin’s memoir, “An knew what a work of art he had,” Ilie Museum of Tolerance. The paintings Uncommon Journey: From Vienna to Wacs said. The fee, however, enabled were inspired by a suitcase full of the Shanghai to America, A Brother and Moritz Wachs to buy a sewing machine. the retailers with a bang. family’s wartime documents that he had Sister Escape to Freedom During World Ilie Wacs worked with his father and inherited from his mother. War II,” written with S.J. Hodges and also made drawings for other children — ILIE WACS TO WWD IN 1962 Wacs’ survivors include daughters published by Barricade Books, came out (Mickey Mouse and Daffy Duck were Maris and Darin Wacs, sister Deborah in 2011. In an interview with WWD early popular). The American Jewish Joint WWD first covered Wacs’ solo coat and Strobin and longtime companion Susan in 2012, Wacs described his father’s ex- Distribution Committee got Ilie Wacs suit collection in March 1962. He told the Halpern. His funeral will take place today perience in Shanghai. A skilled tailor, a scholarship to study at l’Ecole des newspaper then, “With the contrast of at 1:15 p.m. at Riverside Memorial Chapel when he first arrived in the city, he Beaux Arts in Paris. Finding it stuffy, he tailored but soft technique, I want to hit in Manhattan. In lieu of flowers, contri- didn’t have a sewing machine, so, when transferred to the Academie Julian. the retailers with a bang. I am prepared butions should be made to the American he got his first commission for a suit, After World War II ended, the fam- to do it with shape, fit, detail. I want to Jewish Joint Distribution Committee. he sewed it by hand. “The client never ily had nowhere to go. Finally, in 1948, be known for coats and suits’’ that appear — LORNA KOSKI 22 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014

to divulge. So what did the Calvin Klein-clad celebrities — Iggy Azalea, Rita Ora, , Amber Heard, Joe Jonas and Gigi Hadid among them — find most revealing about people they’ve just met? “A big thing for me is how they treat other people,” Hadid said. “That’s very revealing.” “Often what people don’t show is the most revealing [thing about them],” opined Adrian Grenier. “Based on what they conceal and reveal to you is an important part of a relationship.” “Their attention,” Rosario Dawson said. “Not in an egotistical way, but what they’re focused on — their cell phone or the guy talking behind your left ear. Do they look you in the eye? Are they focused on your boobs? It says quite a lot about Rita Ora and Iggy Azalea, both in somebody.” Calvin Klein Collection, performing — LAUREN MCCARTHY, at 4 World Trade Center. TAYLOR HARRIS AND JULIE NAUGHTON

(literally). She retreated barefoot and, randomly, Ben Stiller were to a private alcove toward the all there. Stiller, ostensibly, was back of the store, where she there to secure a designer cameo We’re So Fancy stayed put for the rest of the on his upcoming “Zoolander” party, to the disappointment sequel. “I’ve got a part for you,” IT WOULD SEEM there are But when professional of her many waiting fans. he whispered to Ralph while two Cara Delevingnes. and real Cara meet, such as There, she pounced on every they were posing for pictures. On the cover of Vogue’s at Monday night’s cocktail at passing tray of food, making Shortly after, the crowd flocked September issue, she looks Mulberry’s SoHo store to toast a particularly wild face when down the hill for the show. Lauren every inch the campaign- her collaboration with the a batch of mini hamburgers Bush Lauren stood on a bench to commanding model. All brand, the results can be, well, made its round. When a rowdy get a view above the masses. eyebrows and cheekbones, weird. The party itself was friend in her clique spilled “Isn’t it supercool?” she beamed. Delevingne is polished in fall perfectly charming. The space her appletini on her pant leg, People cleared out pretty Proenza Schouler, her collection was brimming with handbags, Delevingne crouched down to quickly after the designer took of tattoos (16 in total) all hidden. gold balloons and hunky waiters. lick the soaked fabric. “Yummy,” his holographic bow. “Babe,” Then there is the off-duty Cara: Sartorially, Delevingne looked she said, grinning. Rodger Berman said to Zoe as the the free spirit Cara, the oddball the professional part: gracious She came back to the party two stalked up the hill on their Cara (her crazy Instagram faces host, elegant in a ladylike when her sister Poppy arrived so way out. “That was the sickest prove it), the Cara that gets the blouse, leather leggings and a the two could pose for another thing ever.” word “bacon” tattooed on her camouflage print bag from the portrait session. After several Partiers with the energy foot — as she did last week — collaboration. She dutifully minutes of posing, it seemed to keep partying shuttled the Cara who “embraces her posed with fans for both real that the lady of the evening downtown to 4 World Trade weirdness,” as her Instagram and iPhone lenses, making sure was finally ready to speak to Center where Calvin Klein bio details. The real Cara (or at the bag was prominent in each reporters. “Don’t stick your was introducing its new scent, Karlie Kloss in least her carefully crafted public shot. But after 15 or so minutes recorder in her face, though,” a Reveal for Men. Given the Polo Ralph Lauren. persona). of that, the heels were off handler instructed before WWD moniker, many were prepared was brought over. “Can you actually just not use a recorder and remember what she says?” Ciara and It wouldn’t be all that Kendall Jenner, difficult to recall what both in Polo Delevingne said, even without Ralph Lauren. a recorder. Asked what the hardest part FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE of the design process was, Delevingne said, WWD.com/eye. “There wasn’t one.” What did she hope to accomplish with the line? “A backpack that was for the

modern-day woman.” Hey, STÉPHANE FUÈGERE what’s more professional than parroting tidbits memorized from the press release? An hour or so later, Ralph Lauren was throwing a party that even the most blasé Cara and Poppy Delevingne fashion people couldn’t miss. Seasoned showgoers have SCOTT RUDD; ALL OTHERS BY seen collections presented every kind of insane way Atlanta de Rosario — a fantastical carousel, Cadenet in Dawson in an $8 million steam train, Calvin Klein Calvin Klein a supermarket — but when Collection. Collection. Ralph Lauren revealed his Polo for Women collection would manifest via hydro-holographic spectacular, this was generally

considered a must-see. PHOTO BY DELEVINGNE WILL RAGOZZINO; The format — an epic display of both flowing hydraulics and flowing capital — was only part of the draw. So, too, was the promise of a stacked turnout (though it was impossible to tell since the party was outdoors, at night). Ciara, Kendall Jenner, Karolina Kurkova, Nacho Figueras and Delfina Blaquier, Karlie Kloss, Rachel Zoe, Lauren Remington Platt, Ralph Lauren

Jessica Hart, Elettra Wiedemann, Erin and Ben Stiller PHOTOS BY AZALEA,DAWSON DE CADENET AND

Wasson, Lily Kwong, Bruce Weber, ORA, WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 23 WWD.COM

among them Naomi Campbell, Caroline Issa, Campbell’s security guard came A moment from the Lynn Yaeger, Susie Lau and Albert Watson. to whisk her away at the end of the “Models Never Talk” The models’ reenactments ranged from performance, but the model wasn’t ready to performance. the merely historical to the humorous to leave. She headed straight to the backstage the scathing. Doué, a former model for area, where she introduced herself and Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld and Claude congratulated the women. During the Montana, recalled when a certain designer show, she Instagrammed a photo of the dressed her and remarked: “Too much seven women with the caption “Amazing bottom. Too curvy.” Vairelli, who was one performance. Must see. Reminisce. of Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite fit models Memories. Respect.” — KRISTI GARCED and muses, described the outfit she was wearing at the last show she ever walked, for Moschino’s 30th anniversary: “It was…a Naomi long, large black jersey dress with two Campbell words on it: ‘Holy s--t.’ ” Huidobro, whose unconventional looks made her a favorite of Yohji Yamamoto and , described a dark, Gothic look she wore on the Comme des Garçons runway, then stomped around the room with an angry face. After a standing ovation, Saillard was sitting backstage with a glass of Champagne, swarmed by kisses from friends. What surprised him most in working with the women, he explained, Silence Please was how they were able to relive the dresses and moments without actually wearing the clothes. “It’s like something A FASHION SHOW without clothes certain age — several of whom he had automatic,” Saillard said. “Amalia — — what business does such an event worked with before in his “Fashion she’s very Yves Saint Laurent. It was have smack in the middle of New York in Motion” series at the Victoria and like [watching] a part of their memories, Fashion Week? A whole lot, according Albert Museum in 2012. Against a part of the history of fashion — just by to Olivier Saillard, director of the fashion stark white backdrop and set to sparse moving their body. Moving was a kind of museum at the Palais Galliera in Paris. instrumental music, Anne Rohart, handwriting — it was different from Yves On Monday night, Saillard staged the Charlotte Flossaut, Axelle Doué, Christine Saint Laurent to Azzedine Alaïa. premiere of his latest performance Bergstrom, Claudia Huidobro, Amalia “It was a pleasure [to work with piece, “Models Never Talk,” at Milk Vairelli and Violeta Sanchez took to the them],” Saillard continued. “And it’s not

Studios as part of the Crossing the stage in black thong bodysuits, black a job for us.… You know, all of the women FALK EVAN Line fall arts festival. tights and black Roger Vivier pumps. have different jobs now. They had nothing The intention of Saillard’s piece, Using confident, dramatic gestures to lose, nothing to gain [by participating.]

contrary to its title, was to give fashion and words, the models recalled and It was all pleasure.” PHOTOS BY models — those “creatures of silence,” reenacted their most memorable he wrote in his program notes — a runway moments from the Eighties and voice. The curator tapped seven former Nineties, at times moving the audience top models — a mix of French, Chilean, to laughter and even tears. A group of Spanish and Swedish heritages, all of a fashion insiders made up the audience,

Ewan McGregor, Nicole Kidman and Baz Luhrmann For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL

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PHOTO BY Call John Pasquale: (212) 420-9435 import ready-to-wear. Need motivated, sharp, organized for Ext 101 or E-mail: Email [email protected] fast paced high fashion co. Email: [email protected] or call (646)732-4033. [email protected] THIRTEEN YEARS AGO, Nicole Kidman “I’m very partial to Italians,” Kidman NY women’s apparel importer seeks was emerging from her divorce from Tom said. “I’ve loved Italians ever since I was salesperson/ designer with knowledge of Missy/ Plus dresses, skirts, and tops Cruise when she starred in Baz Luhrmann’s 17 years old and I traveled to Rome and in moderate to budget market. “Moulin Rouge!” Costar Ewan McGregor met my first big group of Italian men.” email: [email protected] had a number of prominent roles to his It was Della Valle’s idea to get the old Technical Designer name at the time, but never a major gang together. Luhrmann lives in New Min 3 yrs experience in Junior Contemporary Sportswear romantic lead. The movie musical York with costume designer Catherine Woven & Knit construction also soft became a cult favorite and launched Martin and their children and just dressing.Pattern Making experience a plus. Must be fluent with PLM web them both to a new level of celebrity. happens to be the Tod’s chief ’s neighbor based systems. Please send your On Monday night, Kidman, in the West Village. “I heard that Nicole resume to: [email protected] McGregor, and Luhrmann and Ewan were here and I reunited in Manhattan at the wanted to surprise them because tony Upper East Side French I’m never around,” Luhrmann restaurant Le Bilboquet, the eye said. “I thought, ‘I’m going to first time in a while they’d sneak up on them,’ and I did.” all been together in the same Aside from a collaboration room, though no one could with Barneys New York that figure out for exactly how long. includes a takeover of the store’s “We haven’t done this in I don’t know holiday windows, the filmmaker how many years,” the actress said. is preparing a television project, Kidman had just returned to reportedly about the early days of New York from London, where she hip-hop in New York, that he’s been premiered the new thriller “Before I shopping around to various networks. Go to Sleep,” not for fashion week but “It’s about to be formally announced. at the invitation of Tod’s Diego Della It’s for Netflix,” is all he would say. “It’s (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Valle for the reopening of the brand’s all about New York in the Seventies. I Madison Avenue store. can’t say more.” — ERIK MAZA

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©2014 COACH® coach.com Line. High the supports proudly Coach black in Tote Taxi Coach Studded 2014 FALL WWDCOTERIE SECTION II Vest in Show Vests are back in a big way for spring as designers offer various takes on the sleeveless jacket, from cool leather to a more refined, suited version. Here, from left: Andrew Marc’s leather vest over Milly’s polyester, wool and viscose bra-top and pants. Haute Hippie’s silk charmeuse vest and satin crepe skirt over AS by DF’s laser-cut leather top. Sarah Magid bracelets; Rebecca Minkoff shoes. These looks and more will be on display at Coterie.

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PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE COURTNEY/ONE MANAGEMENT AND LARISSA/MAJOR;MODELS: COURTNEY/ONE HAIR BY 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD COTERIE The National Ballet of Canada’s “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.” coined the term “electronic superhighway” in 1974. Opening Friday, Eyebeam and Shapeways present “Matter That Moves,” an exhibition of 3-D-printed fashion garments. Stemming from a Computational Fashion Master Class in July, where 10 fashion designers, engineers Scene and media artists from North America and Asia came together to learn tech skills and collaboratively design work, the exhibit features four garments that function as an extension or augmentation of the body, exploring concepts such as fashion as a “second skin,” as well as responsive and kinetic structures that can change shape based on the body or environmental conditions. The exhibition takes place at Hotel Particulier in Manhattan. Over on Governors island, where there is no Internet or cell-phone service, Eyebeam Off-The-Grid features such work as Ingrid Burrington’s “LittleNets,”

CYLLA VON TIEDEMANN which sets up site-specific mesh networks with things that might be useful to have PHOTO BY Now that summer has come and gone, many city dwellers are ready to get back to “Becoming Robot” at a few unofficial metropolitan sports — table-hopping and theater-going. Of course, the Asia neither activity happens without technology of some sort. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Society.

MENU MANIA Village location, Via Carota, Il Principe, the hotel’s main The National With an estimated 1,000 on Grove Street. Inspired by restaurant on the ground floor. Ballet of Canada has restaurants opening in New Sodi’s grandmother’s 13th Chef Charlie Palmer is brought Christopher York each year and 80 percent century home in the village of leaving his stamp all over New Wheeldon’s fantastical closing within the first five Bagno a Ripoli, Via Carota is York this fall. With Crimson “Alice’s Adventures years, there is no time to designed with an assortment & Rye open in the Lipstick in Wonderland” to the spare for booking tables at of reclaimed woods, as well Building, he is gearing up for David H. Koch Theater through these up-and-comers. as such repurposed pieces as next week’s opening of Charlie Sunday. With other-worldy Kurt Gutenbrunner is chapel chairs. Palmer Steak at 3 East 54th costumes by Bob Crowley putting the finishing touches As a sort of double Street. Later this year, he will and an upbeat score by Joby on a redesign of Upholstery entendre, the twosome hope unveil three Knickerbocker Talbot, the Lewis Carroll- Store: Food and Wine Bar for that regulars and newbies will Hotel spaces, Jake’s at the Nick, inspired piece has a decidedly the opening later this month. worship their sharing-friendly Charlie Palmer at the Nick and contemporary spin. Having created a following for delicacies. Sodi, a longtime St. Cloud rooftop bar. And at the Central Park’s Delacorte his contemporary Austrian fare Calvin Klein executive, will D&D Building, an event space, Theater kicks off the 11th Fall thanks to restaurants like Wallsé be certain that the staff is Upper Story by Charlie Palmer, for Dance festival featuring and Blaue Gans, the chef will dressed impeccably. The aims for a November debut Lil Buck and dancers from be going the sharing route with pair intend to offer breakfast Meanwhile, Indochine the New York City Ballet dishes like oysters with tuna and though maybe not right out and Acme vets Jean-Marc in Damian Woetzel’s new caviar, shrimp pappardelle and of the gate, since everything Houmard and Hui Chi Lee are project, among other pieces. venison with wild mushrooms about their restaurant is finessing Tijuana Picnic at 151 Dance fans line up for free and blackberries. meant to be when it feels Essex Street, which was once tickets Friday and Saturday. He and KG-NY partner Leo right, Williams said. Laugh Lounge, while Mexican Rachel Dratch will Schneermann tapped 212box Nestled in the leafier chef Enrique Olvera is gearing headline “Tail! Spin!” — a on a remote island — simple to play up a modern Austrian section of SoHo, Bar Hugo up to start welcoming diners political comedy based solely communication tools, artworks interior that includes a print offers patrons a rooftop view to Cosme in the Flatiron on the actual e-mails, texts, and games, and Torkwase of Wiener Werkstatte founder from atop the sleek new Hotel District later this month. tweets, IMs and interviews Dyson’s sculptural installation Koloman Moser. The duo have Hugo. Run by Sean Largotta, relayed by Anthony Weiner, “Solar Day,” addressing the expanded their 713 Washington the maestro behind The Lion IN THE WINGS Mark Sanford, Larry Craig intersection of and mutual Street address by purchasing and Crown, this Marcello Last season, more than 12 and Mark Foley in the wake relationship between sunlight, the adjacent space, which Pozzi-designed watering million people made their way of each of their respective sex interior architecture, space, dates back to the 1870s and hole has an S-shaped bar, a to a Broadway theater, with 44 scandals. Previews start Sept. belonging and periodicity. The is now known as Upholstery constellation of colorful blown- new productions raising their 18, with the opening set for exhibit runs through Sept. 28. Store, where diners will find glass pendants and views of curtains. Here, a look at some Oct. 1 at the Lynn Redgrave The Chelsea retailer banquette seating, marble the Statue of Liberty and The set to bow in the next few weeks. Theater at the Culture Project. Story and tech giant Intel tables and a Josef Hoffmann- Chrysler Building. After a Mia Farrow, Brian Looking further out, Maggie have teamed up to explore type chandelier. banana daiquiri, a Manhattan Dennehy, Anjelica Huston, Gyllenhaal will make her the convergence of style and Jody Williams and Rita or a star anise negroni or Candice Bergen and Carol Broadway debut opposite Ewan technology. Through Oct. Sodi, who run the Buvette two, the cocktail crowd can Burnett are among the actors McGregor in “The Real Thing,” 5, shoppers and stoppers- and I Sod, respectively, are order small plates from chef lined up to be part of the with previews set to start Oct. 2. by the 144 10th Avenue set to opening a third West Carlo Bigi, who also mans the rotating cast that performs location can check out such A.R. Gurney’s “Love Letters.” TECHNICALLY SPEAKING wearable technology as Ringly The Pulitzer-nominated play The average American spends connected cocktail rings, officially opens at the Brooks 11 hours a day with electronic Withings Activité watch- Atkinson Theater on Sept. 18. media, though that figure does meets-activity tracker, iFetch’s James Earl Jones is the big include old-fashioned TV and automatic tennis ball launcher draw for the latest incarnation live radio. Here’s a glimpse of and Mimo Baby’s connected of “You Can’t Take it With a few tech-minded pursuits. baby monitor-meets-onesie. You,” which first opened on Those who want to explore “Everyone is talking Broadway in 1936, although the the reliance on technology can about wearables,” said Story younger set will no doubt turn check out the new Nam June founder Rachel Shechtman. up for “Bridesmaids” star Rose Paik show, “Becoming Robot,” “However, that’s just the tip Byrne. In town for fashion at the Asia Society. Known as of the iceberg. We wanted to week, British designer Jeff the “father of video art,” Paik acknowledge the scope of the Banks planned to see the show envisioned the possibilities of space, both in merchandise before jetting back to London. an Internet-like network and and store experience.”

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD COTERIE

Café empire that encom- passes concert venues, ho- tels and restaurants, and Jimmy Iovine, chairman Jacquard of Interscope Geffen A&M strapless Records and cofounder of dress from . The new Pamella concept will focus on show- Pamella casing Los Angeles’ creative

Roland. ▼ spirit via special projects. “The general business climate has been some- what challenging due to the overassortment of the same ▼ Stella & product mix,” said Genetic Jamie’s founder and creative direc- burnout top tor Ali Fatourechi. “We are and skirt. very much looking forward to introducing a new direction and a specific point of view. This season, we are working on new shapes and propor- tions unlike any other season and introducing unexpected fabrics. A key trend for us is this ‘denim uniform,’ which is inspired by East L.A.” Amour Veronica M. Toub, founder Velvet’s and chief creative officer of striped VMT in Los Angeles, said that, dress. for her line, the “gypsy-boho ▼ vibe continues.” “Influences for the color palette come from my travels in the Mediterranean this sum- mer, and we are focusing on contrasting fabrics, a mix of textures and geometric embroi-

▼ deries,” Toub said. “Key trends Frame include boho, fringe, global Denim’s top traveler and modern nomad.” and leather Meanwhile, Stella & Jamie, pants. Los Angeles, will be show- ing looks that mix denim with leather and distressed leather with long, languid skirts. “Customers are very driven toward what influencers say,” Serving Up Fresh Aspects said creative director April Mun. “So directly working with celebrities and bloggers to get A variety of initiatives are being launched at the show. their feedback on social media helps us tremendously on our Added Simon, “We just Coterie also has several es- key trends, with many buyers Web-site sales.” By MARC KARIMZADEH want to give the French expe- tablished names showing for looking for immediates. Amour Vert, a Palo Alto, rience to the buyer and recon- the first time, such as Pamella “They are buying much Calif.-based sustainable label NEW YORK — As vendors get nect the buyer to the brands Pamella Roland, closer to delivery since the manufactured in the U.S., LARISSA/MAJORMODEL: RAMERO; JAVIER set for the Coterie show next and to their environment, Under Armour weather has been so hard to gives back to the environment BY UP week, they’re dealing with a which is the goal.” predict this year,” Brown said. by planting a tree for every tepid retail climate but feel Brands include Rad Mark Tourgeman, vice Amour Vert T-shirt sold. there are opportunities to sign Hourani, Albertine, president at Ström, the Los “This season, one of the key substantial orders for immedi- Barn’s, DO Paris, Le Angeles- and Stockholm- trends within the collection is ARTISTS; MAKE ARTISTS; ate and spring deliveries. Facette, Margaux based brand, said, “We are sporty chic,” said Christoph Among the key trends on Lonnberg, Shamaz, expecting a busy show and Frehsee, cofounder and chief the block are sustainable Vanessa Bruno Athé, anticipating many inter- executive officer of Amour Vert. clothes and collections that are Lucie Blanche and national buyers to attend “We have created several piec- “Made in the USA.” Also note- Paradis Perdus. Coterie. Personally, I feel es in the collection for a fash- worthy is French Rebellion, This season, specialty retailers will be ionable girl-on-the-go that are billed as a full-service market- the show will also looking for new, up-and- incredibly comfortable [and] place, sales platform, press of- launch Coterie coming brands. easy to style…whether worn DAGENAIS FOR LVA MARCEL fice and collective of 30 French Coaches, a pro- The majority with sneakers or with heels. We designers and brands. gram that fea- of them will have some cozy sweaters and French Rebellion was tures a selection be order- supersoft hoodies and Ts to founded by Julia Simon and of industry profes- Genetic’s ing closer throw on with any look. We also Courtney Daniels, who are sionals providing advice to distressed denim to date and have…dresses that are…sexy also behind the Édité show- new designers at the show. jacket. should place with a touch of preppy.” room and the Sister Tribes The coaches are Chelsea immediate Among the introductions HAIR BY ONE MANAGEMENT; agency. Also cofounded with Matthews of Matte Black, buys for fall- are T-shirts in a mélange knit Murielle Bourdette-Menaut, Anita Gatto of New City PR, holiday and made from recycled polyester Stephane Dago and Gilberto Arielle Vavasseur and Marisa Julie Brown’s taking notes and Modal as well as a selec- Bonelli, it is best described as Spinella of Penelope and Coco. houndstooth for spring. I tion of outerwear, including a a hybrid between a showroom Coterie will take place this feel retail- handwoven poncho.

shorts. ▼ and trade fair, featuring some Sunday to Tuesday at the Jacob ers are test- “Social responsibility and 23 designers over 2,500 square K. Javits Convention Center. and Zadig & Voltaire. ing product sustainability are big topics AT MAJOR AND COURTNEY feet by Coterie’s TMRW sec- “We have worked diligently Julie Brown, president and chasing in the fashion business right tion. The space will exude a to move our dates closer to of her namesake New York- reorders, rather than going now, but only a few players distinct French vibe, from the fashion week,” said Emilie based label, hopes for “great deep with any brand.” have the ability to respond decor to the music and food Cooke Lewis, Coterie director traffic, energy and buyers Genetic will launch the quickly to this new customer stations that will complement at ENK International, which looking for items they sold concept of Genetic Los demand,” Frehsee added. the French talent on display. organizes the show. “A lot of best but, at the same time, a Angeles at Coterie. Earlier “We are benefiting from this Daniels said, “There is a buyers travel to New York for real fresh feeling.” this year, the Los Angeles- shift in consumer behavior whole obsession around French fashion week. We expect a great She cited jumpsuits, dip- based brand secured invest- and are growing at a rapid fashion that, we feel, is coming showing due to dates being on dyes and shorts and jackets ment from Peter Morton, rate while accommodating into fruition recently again.” the tail end of fashion week.” “to throw on and layer up” as cofounder of the Hard Rock our customers’ needs.” GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: LARISSA AT PHOTO BY

6 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II

WWD COTERIE Shirting The Issue The classic button-down is not just a 9-to-5 staple. For spring, designers are showing laid-back versions in chambray blues, easy stripes and playful trims that look casually chic, paired with sexy denim.

From left: Clu’s cotton, viscose and nylon shirt with trimmed hem and James Jeans’ cotton denim and spandex pants. Sarah Magid necklace; Botkier bag; Yosi Samra shoes. Alternative’s cotton shirt and Parker Smith’s cotton denim pants. Ben-Amun necklace; BCBG Max Azria shoes. WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 7 WWD.COM

From left: Level 99’s Tencel shirt and AG Adriano Goldschmied’s cotton-coated denim pants. GX by Gwen Stefani shoes; Kitsch necklaces and rings. BCBG Max Azria’s cotton shirt and Seven For All Mankind’s cotton denim and spandex skirt. Hobo bag; BCBG Max Azria shoes. Frame Denim’s silk charmeuse shirt and Hudson’s cotton and polyester denim pants. Ella Moss bag; GX by Gwen Stefani shoes. RAMERO; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION RAMERO; JAVIER ARTISTS; MAKEUP BY ARTISTS; LVAFOR DAGENAIS MARCEL

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE COURTNEY/ONE MANAGEMENT; HANNA/NEW YORK MODELS AND LARISSA/MAJOR;AND MODELS YORK HANNA/NEW BY HAIR MANAGEMENT; COURTNEY/ONE MODELS: BOTKIER.COM BOTKIER.COM 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD COTERIE Addison’s rayon net dress. Sarah Magid earrings; GX by Gwen Stefani shoes.

Blue polyester net dress by Sachin & Babi for Ankasa. GX by Gwen Stefani shoes.

Raoul’s polyester and viscose jacket with net insets and Velvet by Graham & Spencer’s cotton denim jeans. BCBG Max Azria shoes.

Game Time Part sporty, part feminine, these mesh looks play the part.

12 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD COTERIE From left: Elizabeth and James’ polyamide tropical print top and skirt. Erickson Beamon necklace; Diane von Furstenberg shoes. Shoshanna’s polyester floral cropped top and shorts. Sarah Magid necklace; Diane von Furstenberg shoes. Addison’s cotton lace top and Blue Pearl by Allen Schwartz’s ponte gaucho pants. Sarah Magid necklace; BCBG Max Azria shoes.

A Crop Above

Cropped tops take a chic turn for spring, popping up in pretty prints and sometimes, matching sets. INTRODUCING THE SPRING 2015 HANDBAG COLLECTIONS

COTERIE • JAVITS CENTER SEPTEMBER 14-16

LEVEL 3 • BOOTH #3440

SIGNALBRANDS.COM 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 SECTION II

WWD COTERIE mill, the material comes in a London’s Central Saint Martins “I wanted to do a sleeker geometric print, a tie-dyed style — to finesse the branding and fabric than our competitors,” and a vintage- inspired wash packaging. — KHANH T.L. TRAN he said. “I wanted to take away Ones to Watch for leggings, shorts, sports bra, from the dry hand and do a pullover and sweatshirt. VIMMIA sleek hand. We wanted the line “The [denim] market Also playing on the trend away to be what Vimmia means in A look at some first-time exhibitors isn’t doing really well,” from denim to activewear Latin: life force.” and lines set to launch at Coterie. Goldschmied said. “The for an everyday wardrobe is For the new season answer to that is the Ardy Raminfar, founder and shipping next month, the line activewear, taking the classic president of Vimmia. MADE GOLD clothes, Goldschmied is bodies and turning them After almost a decade of While some denim brands proffering overalls and skinny around and making them working on the Anthropologie Vimmia might lament the encroachment jeans with an icy-blue tint, something different.” line Bordeaux, a brand based of activewear on their short chambray jumpsuits, But Goldschmied isn’t on basic draped jersey fabric, business, Marta Goldschmied leather biker jackets and totally turning her back on her Raminfar decided to strike out is embracing it — introducing vests, and pencil skirts cut family’s legacy. Denim makes on his own after observing the indigo-based activewear as part out of cotton jacquard woven up 60 percent of the line, market trend. What women of her new line. into a dragon pattern. She’s retailing for $220 on average really wanted, he discovered, The daughter of jeans also integrating a proprietary and using Italian and Japanese were apparel items in which guru Adriano Goldschmied, fabric that blends cotton indigo fabrics. After launching Emm they could freely move. the 27-year-old is putting a thread with nylon so that it Gold, her first graphic-heavy “I saw people wanting Millennial’s spin to Made Gold, feels like denim on the front streetwear brand, which she comfort more than launching at Coterie for spring. and technical activewear fabric still sells online, Goldschmied anything,” the Los Angeles- Blurring the lines between on the back. Woven exclusively devised two key fits for Made based designer said. “More denim, sportswear and workout for Made Gold by a Chinese Gold: an exaggerated skinny than anything, I started style with a longer inseam and with my wife, who has three a cinched boyfriend version kids she takes care of and Made Gold with a 9.5-inch rise. running from morning to With retail prices running three in the afternoon.” from $150 to $258, the line In 2011, realizing that is bowing exclusively at Ron the market was quickly Herman in Los Angeles. shifting toward casual chic, will introduce original prints Goldschmied is aiming to land Raminfar began researching from art studios in Paris and in 300 stores in the first year. fabrics and studying how London that were printed on Helping her forge the he could create activewear the apparel through heat and business development and easy enough for the gym but wet-print processes. sales strategy is partner Shane durable for the entire day. Vimmia, a freshman at the Markland, who oversaw sales After two years of sourcing show, shipped its first collection during the launches of Current/ materials in South America, in July 2013 and includes shorts, Elliott and her father’s most the result was a mélange compression leggings, bras and recent label, GoldSign. They’re of lightweight denim fibers pullovers, ranging from $60 to collaborating with another woven with technical fabrics, $260. It is sold at Equinox, Core Goldschmied — Marta’s sister, with quick wick-drying and Power Yoga and specialty stores Glenda, who graduated from UV-protecting elements. across the country. — DAVID YI WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 15 WWD.COM

AQ/AQ The company is opening its first “I was DAY BIRGER ET $187, lace dresses for $340 and Fresh, futuristic and dramatic U.S. store in Los Angeles in calling in MIKKELSEN a leather jacket with a quilted is how AQ/AQ describes itself. 2015. O’Neill said Los Angeles jewelry from Lisa Freede Day Birger et chevron pattern at $576. “It’s meant to be worn where is the brand’s target market. Harry Winston Mikkelsen, based Love Everyday is more the lights are brighter and AQ/AQ, a first-timer at and all of these in Copenhagen, has classic and tailored, yet still the music is louder,” AQ/AQ’s the trade show, is sold at places, but then grown in its 17 years in feminine. Sheath dresses mission statement says. Bloomingdale’s and Shopbop. I was like, ‘Wow, I business to now include retail for $187, leather skirts at Formerly called Aqua by com. The brand is also sold need to start making a collection, a younger $341, soft blouses for $145 and Aqua, the nine-year-old in Europe, China, Canada my own,’ ” after not diffusion line, accessories cropped jackets at $234. British label features and Australia. being able to find perfect and home goods. The second brand, 2ND Day, women’s and men’s The collection is fantasy- wardrobe staples, Keld Mikkelsen, who is edgier. “It’s clean and not so wear. Music is a big part inspired, dreamlike and Freede recalled. started the company in decorated,” Fellah said. of the brand, which is euphoric, said O’Neill, In 2004, after 1997, has a background Et, an accessories line, “progressively fresh adding that metallic setting out to in textiles and worked consists mainly of handbags, and innovative,” said fabrics are “quite create jewelry in Asia, where he some utilitarian and others more Stephanie O’Neill, girly.” A blue playsuit that was under was drawn to the playful. There are bucket bags marketing manager. is $200 at retail, a the $150 mark, she craftsmanship in Hong and totes in leather and clutches “It’s worn by draped minidress launched three Kong and India. The decorated with fringe. — S.E. women to define goes for $248.50 designs — called home line was started in their nights out and and a backless the Huggie — at Fred 2005. The second women’s Day Birger special occasions,” jumpsuit has a tag Segal in Los Angeles. line, aptly called 2ND Day, et Mikkelsen O’Neill said. of $257. The men’s After a trial run, the entire launched in 2011. Colors and collection is also collection was sold out in days. The signature collection exclusive prints edgy, with graphic “I didn’t want to reinvent is broken into two parts, the are designed in- T-shirts, black wool the wheel, but do basics with a main collection and Love house and applied varsity jackets twist,” Freede said. Everyday. The collection to architectural with bright blue Today, the business has features designs infused with styles. AQ/AQ’s leather sleeves, and expanded to include leather, global influences combined target customer is a printed shirts with chains, crystals, bold metals with a Scandinavian simplicity. woman age 18 to 30. pants to match. and statement pieces. The Ancient embroidery, patterns “We have a strong “We’re looking to designer even experiments and trims are merged with brand aesthetic, a expand and produce with resins in colors like olive contemporary silhouettes. high fashion aesthetic collections that are as and champagne. One style “It’s a little bit bohemian and accessible price well received in the of bracelet includes wooden and a little bit ethnic, but points,” O’Neill U.S. as they are in the beads from Tibet. still very classic,” said Pia said. “We play with U.K.,” O’Neill said. The collection, launching Mia Fellah, the company’s fabric innovation and — SHARON EDELSON at Coterie, will include a marketing manager. printing techniques.” medallion encrusted with pavé For fall-winter, the theme The brand is sold in LISA FREEDE stones, with pearls and chains of the collection, being shown two of its own stores in While styling for TLC that will hit the collarbone. for the first time at Coterie, was London, one for men and Cher in the Aughts, Prices range from $48 to $98. “East meets West.” There was and one for women, as Lisa Freede found there Freede sells to retailers, a lighter interpretation of the well as at Harrods and was a need for affordable including Harvey Nichols and theme for spring. Styles include online on ASOS.com. but luxurious jewelry. Jennifer Miller. — D.Y. muted paisley prints on tops for AQ/AQ EDIT is an exclusive event featuring advanced contemporary and luxury women’s collections across RTW, accessories and footwear, for the world’s best retailers. EDIT. WEAR THE FUTURE.

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