London Men's Fashion Week
MEN’S FASHION WEEK Spring 2017 A.P.C. Vouge.com Given his track record of enlivening A.P.C. presentations with culturally and politically charged spiel, Jean Touitou was bound to have an opinion on Brexit. Simply put, he expressed no surprise. “We are entering a new loop in history, which is totally reactionary,” he said, hypothesizing that the U.S., France, and Italy might face similar fates. Was he concerned? “Oh yes, but I’ve been terrified from a long time ago, back when I was this age,” he replied, pointing to his T-shirt printed with a photo of a foxy Jean Touitou, aged 15. The two Touitous—then and now—provided an entry point into this collection, which will arrive in stores just as the brand enters into its 30th year. Its founder, meanwhile, recently reached the legal age of retirement in France. Leaving aside sentimentality, the milestones marked an opportunity to pay respect to the brand’s workwear DNA, which, Touitou rightly noted, has gotten better with age (more resources, more research). For example: Dungarees and a ribbed pullover were uniquely bleached and overprinted, respectively, to achieve an authentically lived-in look before ever being worn. Roomy jeans, ordinarily a tough sell, were justifiable when paired with a deep indigo, contrast-stitched postman’s jacket. Amid the continued trend toward graphic streetwear, a crisp mac over a shirt patterned in stylized propellers (care of graphic artist Pierre Marie) and a cable-knit tucked into high-waist denim made a compelling case against cool. The streamlined designs from Louis Wong, a member of the design team whose label, Louis W., exists under the A.P.C.
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