FERRAGAMO’S PARIS MOMENT PAGE 3 KEEP ON ROLLING AS PITTI UOMO LOOMS, MEN’S WEAR BRANDS ARE HOPING THE BOOM TIMES WILL CONTINUE. MEN’S WEEK, SECTION II

WWDTHURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 TAKING ANOTHER LOOK Developers Revisiting Stalled Retail Projects outlet projects. By RACHEL BROWN One of the most elaborate pre- sentations came from Westfield LAS VEGAS — Retailers want the Group, which dedicated a room best, and mall owners are trying to at Caesars Palace Las Vegas Hotel give it to them. & Casino to unveil a three-di- With the recession zapping mensional model and digital im- many retailers’ appetites for un- agery of the World Trade Center proven real estate and miniscule redevelopment. Last month, recent mall development in the Westfi eld struck a deal with the U.S., demand for space at prime Port Authority of New York and shopping centers has begun to New Jersey for a joint venture on outpace supply — and mall compa- the retail component of the World nies are sensing an opportunity to Trade Center, a 352,000-square- react. At the International Council foot, fi ve-level area that will of- of Shopping Centers’ RECon con- ficially open in May 2015. The vention that ran here from May 20 joint venture also gives Westfi eld to 23 and was attended by 33,000 the ability to spearhead retail in people, up 1,000 from last year, de- another 90,000 square feet at the velopers gauged retailers’ interest World Trade Center. in a few key new shopping centers, “When you look at the retail downturn-stalled retail develop- we have done in London and in ments rising from the dead, expan- Sydney, we will do something simi- sions to existing retail gems, urban lar at the World Trade Center,” infi ll possibilities and a slew of SEE PAGE 6 Shade and Shine A blend of broderie anglaise lace with sequins added a soft, textural Oscar de la Renta’s Retail Push touch to Louis Vuitton’s resort collection, which women’s creative director place. During an interview in the Julie de Libran designed with the idea of keeping cool — with a little help By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG company’s West 42nd Street offi ce from some chiced-up visors. For more on the season, see pages 4 and 5. here, Bolen was quick to note that NEW YORK — With 13 stores and the company is by no means easing counting, Oscar de la Renta Inc. up on wholesale or e-commerce. is stepping up the retail side of This fall, the Madison Avenue its business. fl agship will double in size to 4,000 Like much of what the compa- square feet and the company’s fi rst ny’s namesake has done throughout London store will bow on Mount his 50-year-plus career, de la Renta Street. In April, the designer’s sec- has approached retailing with dis- ond store in the Middle East opened cretion and measured steps. Now in Riyadh, and that region remains a RT 2 as the label has evolved beyond growth opportunity through its part- SO 0 E 13 ready-to-wear to include accesso- ner, Retail Arabia. Pleased with the R ries, children’s wear, fragrances, initial response to the more com- bridal, beauty and even suntan lo- pact boutique that opened in the tion, president Alex Bolen is eager Dominican Republic’s Punta Cana COLLECTIONS to showcase the mix all in one SEE PAGE 8 NEW YORK

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012

Kellwood’s Lamb & Flag on Block the Briefing Box is taking a new strategic direc- Farm, sag Harbor, Briggs NY, By raCHel BrOWN tion with our brand portfolio and Jolt, My Michelle and XOXO in its in Today’s WWd has decided it will no longer in- brand portfolio, is seeking to sell Jill GraNOFF continues to re- vest in start-up concepts that only lamb & Flag, and Granoff noted make the Kellwood portfolio — and have a long-term payback. We there are a few potential buyers the latest casualty is lamb & Flag. will be focusing our resources on that have expressed interest. The retail concept — green- businesses that have the greatest However, she suggested lamb lit by former Kellwood Co. chief potential for meaningful growth & Flag’s three existing stores in executive officer and current J.C. and profitability,” said Granoff, southern California at the Brea Penney Co. inc. chief operating who was named ceo of Kellwood Mall, The shops at Mission Viejo officer Michael Kramer — that in May. and los Cerritos Center would be had ambitions to become a 700- The apparel company, which closed if a deal is not done in a to 800-door chain, is being ex- has Vince, rebecca Taylor, David timely fashion. cised from Kellwood. “Kellwood Meister, Zobha, Baby Phat, Phat “While the brand story and product are terrific, it would take There are three existing Lamb & Flag stores. many years and a lot of capital to build awareness and get this ves business to be profitable. This A decision will allow us to rede- Gr

ploy our resources to other exist- Chloë Grace Moretz in Max Amy ing brands in our portfolio,” con- Mara at the Women in Film cluded Granoff. Crystal + Lucy Awards. in another example of Photo by Kellwood’s strategy to direct its It was clear at the International Council of Shopping energy away from smaller, emerg- Centers’ RECon convention that retailers want the best, ing concepts, the company decid- and mall owners are trying to give it to them. PAGE 1 n A ed earlier this year that it would no longer finance BlK DNM, al-

Keen With 13 stores and counting, Oscar de la Renta Inc. is

nie though it retains a minority inter- stepping up the retail side of its business. PAGE 1 A est in the brand founded by Johan

tef s lindeberg. BlK DNM recently Florentine fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo invaded the received an investment from John Louvre museum for a star-studded resort showing. PAGE 3

hoto by and Jamey Hargreaves.

P Defying general economic gloom in Europe and Spain’s particular predicament, Inditex SA said net profits jumped 30 percent in the first quarter of fiscal 2012. PAGE 3

TJX Plots Moves to Sustain Momentum L’Oréal, Chanel, Richemont and Coach are among the companies that have applied for new Internet domain cantly widened its customer de- porary section, at the front of the name endings. PAGE 7 By KaTHeriNe BOWers mographic” and has been “very store and is heavily touting that successful in moderate income on its Web site as well. TJX cited Dolce & Gabbana, Benetton, H&M, Forever 21 and C&A FraMiNGHaM, Mass. — it was a markets,” which a.J. Wright tar- dresses, men’s, shoes and ac- are among the brands inking licensing partnerships with good year for The TJX Cos. inc. geted. The company unveiled cessories as particularly strong Twentieth Century Fox Consumer Products. PAGE 8 store traffic, transactions and plans to shutter the a.J. Wright performers in a year where comparable-store sales were all division in December 2010 and Marmaxx comp-store sales grew Men’s wear, fashion’s late bloomer, is in full flower, and it up in fiscal 2011, while the com- converted just over 90 doors, 5 percent year-over-year. continues to sidestep global economic woes and political pany’s stock gained 43 percent. more than half the chain, to as for e-commerce, TJX ap- turmoil. PAGE MW1 But Carol Meyrowitz, chief ex- Marshall’s nameplates. pears to be getting there. ecutive officer, acknowledged Meyrowitz said Marmaxx, “We view e-commerce as a LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has acquired at the retailer’s annual meeting currently at more than 2,900 major opportunity for TJX,” Arnys, a French men’s wear purveyor with roots stretching Wednesday that it was fair to ask, stores, can grow to 4,500 doors Meyrowitz wrote in a letter to back to 1933, WWD has learned. PAGE MW2 “What’s next?” based on a recent market study shareholders, noting that should The answer, it seems, is more showing brand awareness for the company launch e-com- A look at some of the new shops and eateries awaiting of the same — expansion of TJ Maxx and Marshall remains merce, it can take advantage of visitors to the Pitti Uomo show in Florence. PAGE MW4 the off-pricer’s core concepts. “well below” that of department its 700-person buying team to Company executives remained stores. The division, account- find off-price goods as well as its Some new and noteworthy brands to check out at Pitti characteristically tight-lipped ing for roughly 65 percent of existing audience of 4 million Uomo in Florence. PAGE MW10 but are working on a $143 mil- net sales, generated $2 billion monthly Web visitors. lion expansion of their corporate in profit last year, an 11 percent Once merely a kick-back to a Eleven dashing dads that were featured in a Father’s headquarters here. gain over the prior year. corporate Web site, the TJ Maxx Day story on e-tailer Park & Bond’s Web site were toasted The $23.5 billion company is TJX has ramped up its mar- Web site now has personality. it in New York on Tuesday. PAGE MW14 planning 2012 to be a more ag- keting, including continuing its allows shoppers to post favorite gressive growth year, aiming to TJ Maxx TV campaign featuring outfits, purchase gift cards and Louis Vuitton made a locomotive the backdrop for its increase square footage by 5 per- saucy Glossie blogger lindsey sign up for e-mail blasts. “The next campaign — and is dispatching it to Shanghai for a cent. space grew by only 2 per- Calla. They’ll also continue more we learn, the more con- gala taking place next month. PAGE MW16 cent in 2011 weighed down by the store-remodeling efforts, which vinced we are of the huge op- closure of the a.J. Wright divi- have brought fake-wood flooring, portunity e-commerce can be for sion. in a letter to shareholders, dressing room upgrades and a TJX,” Meyrowitz noted. “That on WWD.CoM Meyrowitz implied that the flag- centralized check-out lane that’s said, being the conservative com- ship Marmaxx division — which flanked by small items — every- pany that we are, we have fac- EYE: Chloë Grace Moretz, Christina Applegate and Viola encompasses the Marshall’s and thing from tights to jellybeans tored very little top-line benefit Davis were the honorees at this year’s Women in Film TJ Maxx chains — is capable of — to trigger impulse buys. in into our long-range growth model Crystal + Lucy Awards. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. capturing a.J. Wright’s customer. TJ Maxx, the company has posi- at this juncture. We will take our she noted Marmaxx has “signifi- tioned The runway, its contem- time and do it right.” To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 122. THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays Esprit Chairman Steps Down on Heels of CEO Exit and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Thursday, June 14, Hong Kong on track,” Fischer said. “also, Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: By Melissa Drier S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, time. shares dropped 22 percent ronald brought a tremendous Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at to close at 10.54 Hong Kong dol- amount of enthusiasm to the role New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses BerliN — esprit suffered a sec- lars, or $1.36 at current exchange, and was well liked by investors.” to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S ond major management setback prior to trading being suspended. Fischer maintained an “un- WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, Wednesday with the resignation esprit also announced that derperform” rating on esprit call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent of the company’s chairman and raymond Or Ching Fai, an inde- shares, citing difficulty of exe- label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless independent non-executive di- pendent non-executive director of cuting the turnaround of a mass we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on rector Hans-Joachim Körber. the company, has been appointed market brand and concern that all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all esprit chief executive officer chairman effective Wednesday. material recovery in earnings editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints ronald Van der Vis stepped down Commenting on Van der Vis’ de- will take longer than the market of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at from his post on Tuesday, sending parture, aaron Fischer, analyst at expects. Moreover, the deterio- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that esprit’s shares into a tailspin. Clsa in Hong Kong, said he viewed rating macro situation in europe we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Prior to the announcement it as “a significant negative.” will weigh on the stock, given P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED of Körber’s departure, the The ceo “developed a very that esprit generates 80 percent ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Hong Kong-listed company sus- credible sounding transformation of sales in europe. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR pended trading from 1:30 p.m. plan, hired strong people and the — With contributions DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Wednesday, June 13, to 9 a.m. initial execution seemed to be from EllEn shEng SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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Freida Pinto, Ferragamo at the Louvre Leighton Meester and Hilary Swank. The weather did not cooperate, and By WWD STAFF the Ferragamos fretted as dark clouds STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE gathered ahead of the 8:30 p.m. event as PARIS — It takes a long time to craft lux- winds occasionally gusted through the urious Italian fashions and leather goods arcade. Some guests swathed themselves PHOTO BY — and also for models to traverse a 460- in cashmere shawls and black blankets foot runway. left on their seats. Those points were hammered home Swank defied the elements in a lacy here Tuesday night as Florentine house dress and mesh booties. “I like the rain. Salvatore Ferragamo invaded the Louvre I’m from Washington State, so I get happy museum for a star-studded resort showing. in it. It reminds me of home,” she beamed. Freida Pinto, Hilary Swank, Leighton The actress said she would soon head to Meester and Alain Delon were among South Africa to film “Mary and Martha,” an celebrities who watched a parade of HBO movie — co-starring Brenda Blethyn pale fashions under the Denon Wing’s and directed by Phillip Noyce — about two colonnade. Afterward, they repaired for women fighting malaria. a lavish lounge-style dinner under the Pinto, meanwhile, is jetting off to famous I.M. Pei pyramid, where Ruinart Turkey and Jordan to shoot “Desert Champagne flowed and servers sliced up Dancer.” Fan Bingbing, spotting the Indian giant macaroni-and-mushroom pies. actress, eyed her vertiginous black satin pumps with a look of surprise. “I know. Can you imagine?” FOR MORE Pinto laughed, confiding that she IMAGES, SEE was suffering from a recurring foot ailment. Asked how high WWD.com/ the shoes were, she let out a stand for hours in the rain, and our pres- Customers are fashion-shows. laugh. “I have no idea, I’m not ident in France, too, then so can I,” the more likely to even counting.” Spaniard said with a broad smile. hone in on a strik- As French actresses Ferragamo’s creative director, ing one-shoulder saharienne, handsome Elodie Bouchez and Amira Massimiliano Giornetti, had been hoping zippered great coats and a range of sexy Casar leaned over a bal- for sunset light to caress his rich-hippie col- snakeskin boots that had editors oohing. cony, puffing on cigarettes, lection, inspired by island vacations in the Ferragamo cranked up the volume on Meester said she has been Mediterranean and a tour along Big Sur. its cruise collection last year ahead of busy promoting the up- The delicate, dusty colors were a key its initial public offering — parading an coming comedy “That’s My statement. During a preview, Giornetti evening-focused collection in New York. Boy,” in which she stars said he wished that his collection would Giornetti put the accent on daywear opposite Adam Sandler. not look jarring against the Louvre’s tawny this time, and broader assortments of Her character repre- stone. His mind also went to the shades shoes and handbags, including a range of sents “the exact opposite” of the paper used five centuries ago by fetching hobos. from Blair Waldorf, the Leonardo Da Vinci, whose exhibition at Michele Norsa, Ferragamo’s chief ex- preppy socialite she por- the Louvre “The Saint Anne, Leonardo ecutive officer, described resort as one of trays on “Gossip Girl.” da Vinci’s Ultimate Masterpiece,” is spon- its most important deliveries, given that Delon said he was be- sored by Ferragamo and welcoming rough- there are more warm-climate markets in tween projects, but quick- ly 4,000 visitors per day. the world than cold ones. ly running out of ways to keep The low-wattage hues put the focus Ready-to-wear, including silk ac- busy in the absence of sunshine. on haute craftsmanship: low-slung leath- cessories, accounted for 18 percent of “I don’t have a sufficiently con- er pants laced together in broad strips, Ferragamo’s 2011 sales, which rose 26.2 sistent hobby, because there are densely crocheted skirts swishing with percent to 986.4 million euros, or $1.37 just too many rainy afternoons fringe and Mod shift dresses composed of billion, as reported. in Paris. I mean, I have one or micro swags of silk fringe. Giornetti noted Norsa characterized the Louvre show- two, but not 14,” he said. that four people toiled for 10 days on one ing as a global event that would dovetail Inés Sastre was taking a stoi- sexy tank dress — a marvel of pale leath- with the Da Vinci expo, which has at- cal approach to the streak of wet er strips married to small metal plaques. tracted 240,000 visitors to date and closes weather in Europe, which has However, the clothes were often over- on June 25. marred everything from Queen whelmed with detail — lacing, grommets, “It’s good for us to come to France, Elizabeth II’s Jubilee celebrations knotting, plaiting and drawstrings — and which is a very competitive market, to DOMINIQUE MAITRE Resort looks from Salvatore to the inauguration of French leg-baring dresses pavéd in racy snake show we are a major company,” he said. Ferragamo. President François Hollande. prints or micro studs veered from the “After the IPO, we have more confidence

PHOTOS BY “Listen, if the Queen of England can brand’s usual old-world glamour. in ourselves.”

Zara Parent Inditex Sees Profits Jump 30% Catalonia region of Spain that is Zara global flagship, located on due to create another 500 jobs. the corner of New York’s Fifth coming years,” Inditex chair- ply chain means the company is “We always try to be a little Avenue and 52nd Street, in ad- By JOELLE DIDERICH man and chief executive officer benefiting from lower input costs, bit in advance of the needs of dition to Zara stores in key lo- Pablo Isla said during a confer- as the price of cotton and other the company. The company is cations in Berlin, Tokyo and DEFYING GENERAL econom- ence call with analysts. textiles has fallen, in advance of growing, all the teams are be- Chongqing, China. ic gloom in Europe and Spain’s Inditex, which is based in competitors. Secondly, we expect coming stronger,” Isla said. Inditex capital markets direc- particular predicament, Inditex Arteixo, Spain, suggested the there has been continued mix He added that the gross tor Marcos Lopez said Zara and SA said net profits jumped 30 momentum continued into the shift away from Spain in [the first margin growth in the first quar- the group’s other concepts had percent in the first quarter of fiscal second quarter, noting quarter],” they said in a report. ter was linked to proximity performed broadly in line with fiscal 2012. that store sales in local curren- Inditex has been gradually sourcing and like-for-like sales each other, with some small varia- The results sharply exceeded cies increased by 14 percent be- reducing its reliance on the growth, but declined to elabo- tions. “Regarding the younger analysts’ expectations as new tween Feb. 1 and June 10. domestic market, which ac- rate. The company’s business concepts, Stradivarius and Pull & store openings and growing on- Analysts said the perfor- counted for 25 percent of total model allows it to react more Bear have performed above the line sales more than compen- mance was remarkable in light sales in 2011 versus 28 per- rapidly to consumer tastes and average, and Oysho and Massimo sated for continued weakness in of the crisis gripping the Spanish cent in the prior-year period, market evolutions, reducing the Dutti, below the average,” he said. the retailer’s domestic economy. economy, which is deepening de- while Asia and the rest of the need to mark down stock. In May, Inditex opened stores Shares in Inditex, owner of spite the news last weekend that world represented 18 percent, Describing the sourcing en- in Ecuador for Zara, Pull & the Zara retail chain, climbed the European Union will release up from 15 percent previously. vironment as “stable,” Isla said Bear, Bershka and Stradivarius, on the news, closing up 11.5 100 billion euros, or $125 billion, Nonetheless, Isla said he was Inditex was not planning any bringing the number of markets percent to 75.40 euros, or $94.17 in emergency funds to rescue the confident in Spain’s future. price hikes. in which the group has a pres- at current exchange, on the country’s banks. “I fully believe that the effect “We are offering to our custom- ence to 85. Madrid Stock Exchange. Spanish retail sales fell by of the reforms that are being ad- ers very high fashion, high qual- In the fall, it will open its Europe’s largest clothing re- a record 9.8 percent in April as opted will start to become evident ity and affordable prices and our first Massimo Dutti stores tailer registered net profits of 432 consumers tightened their belts in the coming quarters,” he said. policy of maintaining stable prices in the U.S. — one in the for- million euros, or $570 million, be- in the face of austerity measures Inditex is investing 290 mil- in different markets is something mer Zara store on New York’s tween Feb. 1 and April 30. Sales designed to stave off a debt crisis. lion euros, or $362 million, into that we are not planning to change Fifth Avenue, and one in increased 15 percent to 3.4 billion Jamie Merriman and Anthony expanding its domestic loca- in the future,” he said. the Georgetown district of euros, or $4.5 billion. The gross Sleeman of Bernstein Research tions to keep pace with its glob- The company plans to pursue Washington, D.C., Isla said. margin stood at 60.2 percent of calculated that Inditex posted al expansion. an ambitious program of store The group also continues to sales, up from 58.8 percent during like-for-like sales growth of 6.5 During the first quarter, the openings, which calls for an expand e-commerce, though the same period last year. percent in the quarter, 230 basis company started work on a additional 480 to 520 units this it again declined to detail the Dollar figures are converted points above their forecast for 750,000-square-foot extension year, including 130 in China. percentage of sales generated at average exchange rates for the fiscal year ended Jan. 31, to its corporate headquarters, The group opened 91 units online. Having launched e- the periods to which they refer. 2013. They said the margin ex- which is expected to generate worldwide in the first quarter, commerce for Zara in Poland in “The current base offers pansion was due to two factors. 400 new jobs. It is also build- bringing the total to 5,618 doors March, it plans to do the same in huge growth potential for the “First, Inditex’s short sup- ing a logistics platform in the as of April 30. This included the Mainland China in September. 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012

Dior: In his last effort for the house of Dior Rag & Bone Dior before Raf Simons takes over, Bill Gaytten delivered an attractive resort collection. He offered variations on the eternal Bar jacket, including a sleek collarless version with vertical darts sculpting the waist. The clothes looked light and gently graphic, often worked in soft pastel blocks and archival florals. Even the more “formal” suits were given a soft touch, done in different types of jerseys.

Rag & Bone: David Neville and Marcus Wainwright focused on creating a cohesive bridge between Rag & Bone’s fall and forthcoming spring collections. Mission accomplished. With the former hinged on Fifties Cuba, and the latter, as Wainwright hinted, to be about Victorian dressing and petticoats, resort began with short dresses in cotton and leather and nipped at the waist, as well as cropped motorcycle and military jackets and sharp tailored separates. Then came the color, specifically lavender or bright yellow florals emblazoned on the label’s signature silhouettes.

Nicole Miller: “I’ve got everything from palm trees to tie-dye with a little bit of an ethnic touch,” said Nicole Miller, whose recent trip to Belize with her son was on her mind this season. An energetic yet easy collection of casual mix-and-match separates resulted, with summery looks comprised of a printed silk tank with cute sequined short-shorts, for example, and a color-blocked and tie-dyed tank and long skirt.

Giambattista Valli: “Urban Jungle” was the inspiration for Giambattista Valli and, for the most part, he stayed true to what he does best: pretty, ultrafeminine clothes. The theme came through in his new prints, which were often mixed to appealing results, i.e., the tank dress that combined floral paisley, ocelot and tropical leaf motifs.

Badgley Mischka: The new version of “The Great Gatsby” inspired Mark Badgley and James Mischka — right down to the mosaiclike motifs that riffed on the Gold Coast mansions. “These are party clothes for Daisy,” said Mischka, pointing to the Deco-embroidered short fitted dresses, lovely black chiffon gowns and lavish caftans.

Peter Pilotto: Building on the 3-D elements they worked for fall, this time Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos placed sequins on their sides rather than flat to create raised floral shapes. White collars gave dresses and tops a purist touch, while puffer jackets complimented the sporty feel.

Thom Browne: “I wanted to do the kind of tailoring I’m known for but soften it,” Thom Browne said of his first resort collection. Out came madras plaids and chic floral cotton jacquards cut into classic topcoats and blazers, along with some great kitschy whale and tennis racket prints. It was all Resort 2013 mixed in with pretty silk dresses and lace tops, some with dropped collars and crystal embroidery.

Costume National: Moving his dark, new- wave message from fall further into the post-punk movement, Ennio Capasa’s collection for Costume National was tightly focused and laced with great details like asymmetric or raw-edged hems on sheaths and tops, along with straps and grommets on jackets and accessories.

Mantu: Gigi Vezzola said he was inspired by the rich colors and patterns of Portuguese tiles, which he translated beautifully into Mantu’s geometric patterns and embroideries. The bodice of a dress was done in red, navy and yellow sequins, while jewels decorated the waistline of a pencil skirt. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Giambattista Nicole Miller Peter Pilotto Thom Browne Valli

For more reSorT, See WWD.com/ runway.

Badgley Costume National Mantu Mischka ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE KYLE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GEORGE JOHN AQUINO, BY PHOTOS

w14a004(5)a;5.indd 2 6/13/12 7:03 PM 06132012190533 6 WWD thurSday, june 14, 2012 Developers Focusing on Revamps, Outlets

{Continued from page one} said Peter Lowy, Westfield’s co-chief ex- A rendering of the retail component of the World Trade ecutive officer, who stressed food would Center, which is a venture between Westfield and the be an important element of the retail Port Authority of New York and New Jersey. mix. He added, “You won’t see all upmar- ket or all services. We need to fit the re- tail into the right spot for the customer.” The customer base, he explained, will be made up of tourists — eight mil- lion visitors annually are expected to go to the National September 11 Memorial Park & Museum — and roughly 310,000 office workers. The World Trade Center isn’t alone in garnering Westfield’s attention. Lowy estimated the developer would spend $2 billion to $3 billion over the next four to five years on U.S. mall improvements. Westfield’s first substantial renovation of a U.S. mall in three years started last September at Westfield UTC in San Diego. “It’s getting a whole makeover,” said Lowy. The $180 million remodeling, due to be finished in the fall, will include the ad- dition of a 14-screen ArcLight movie the- ater and various eateries, a dining terrace redo, common area enhancements and a rehab of the storefronts. Work on Westfield Century City in Los Angeles will kick off this year with the addition of 600 parking spaces, but will ramp up beyond the parking lot in the next three to four years, according to Lowy. He believes Westfield Century City can easily sustain 250 stores, about 100 more than its current count. Lowy point- ed to Westfield Montgomery in Bethesda, Md., Westfield Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J., and Westfield Valley Fair in Santa Clara, Calif., as other malls slat- RiverPark owner Shea Properties. ally, charge ahead, B and C malls are lag- tions completed in 2005. ed for remodels. Real estate services and development ging further behind. “At the B malls, they On the distressed end of the spectrum, “You will see more development at firm Oliver McMillan has resurrected the roll out the red carpet. Whatever you Harold Bordwin, copresident of GA Keen the better malls,” said Lowy. “It is not mixed-use Buckhead Atlanta project, for- want, they will give it to you. It is feast or Realty Advisors, said he received a spate happening today or tomorrow, but it is merly known as Streets of Buckhead, that famine in the shopping center business. of inquiries at ICSC about the possibility happening.” covers six city blocks containing 300,000 There is no middle,” said Robert Cohen, of deals similar to one that he’d advised Plenty seems to be happening in the square feet of retail and restaurants, president of the Southern California of- on for the 210,000-square-foot Closter near future at Taubman Centers Inc. 100,000 square feet of office and 400,000 fice of the retail real estate firm RKF. Plaza Shopping Center in New Jersey, The company opened the only major square feet of residential. Jeff Zeigler, a Rent growth at A malls versus B malls which resulted in a $52 million joint ven- U.S. mall in the last few years with the managing director at Oliver McMillan, underscores the divergence in demand ture between an affiliate of the shopping 700,000-square-foot City Creek Center in said construction would commence in between the mall segments. Cedrik center company Edens, and the center’s Salt Lake City and isn’t stopping there. July or August. Hermès is the sole store Lachance, managing director of the re- long-time owners Aspi and Bakhtaver Taubman chairman, president and ceo that Oliver McMillan has openly talked search firm Green Street Advisors, es- Irani, who had filed for Chapter 11 in Robert Taubman was optimistic the about coming to Buckhead Atlanta, but timated market rents at A malls have 2010. “We’ve got lots of real estate debt International Market Place in Honolulu Zeigler said the project is 40 to 50 per- climbed 8 to 10 percent over the past 12 maturing done in 2006 and 2007. The would move from the planning stages to cent leased and that there would be 60 to months, while market rents at B malls are property values have declined, and those execution. Taubman signed an agree- 80 stores upon its completion. “We’ve had flat to up by no more than the rate of in- properties are under water. There is op- ment in 2010 with Queen Emma Land a really good response,” he said. flation. “Retailers are not in a position to portunity,” said Bordwin. Co. to erect the open-air shopping center Laura Pomerantz, principal and found- support rent growth consistent with sales R. Webber Hudson, an executive vice with 275,000 square feet of mall tenant ing partner of PBS Real Estate LLC, is growth, especially in B malls,” he said. president at Related Urban, said the space scheduled to bow in spring 2015. convinced Buckhead Atlanta will move for- The comparative anemia of B and C real estate company is vetting distressed Taubman said, “Hopefully, in 2013, we ward. Ben Carter Properties LLC initiated malls is a dilemma for retailers pursuing properties in dense areas. “You have to will be able to announce when construc- the Streets of Buckhead in 2006 with a vi- expansion in the U.S. that have saturated be careful. You don’t want to be the great- tion is starting.” sion to make it the Rodeo Drive of Atlanta, the A classification. “We see groups that are er fool. You have to do your research. Taubman has already said construc- but couldn’t cobble together the money to trying to figure out going from 250 to 500 You can’t move fast,” he said, although he tion will get under way this year at the turn that vision into reality. Zeigler said the stores, and you can’t do that in A malls,” continued, “In the next year or two, you 640,000-square-foot Mall of San Juan in revived Buckhead Atlanta project is fully said Greg Schuster, senior managing direc- will see steel coming out of the ground in Puerto Rico, where Saks Fifth Avenue and financed. Boston hedge fund The Baupost tor and principal of commercial real estate urban infill [by Related Urban.]” Nordstrom have made commitments, and Group has pledged to inject a $300 million services provider Cassidy Turley. He added There’s a broadening slice of mall the 880,000-square-foot Mall at University equity investment to get it built. Although that some retailers are debating whether to owners and retailers that would rath- Town Center in Sarasota, Fla., a property Simon Property Group Inc.’s Phipps Plaza, go to weaker malls with their original con- er direct their energy toward growth Taubman jointly owns with Benderson which has Vince, Intermix, Michael Kors, cept, a variant of that concept to suit the B abroad than toward feeble properties at Development that’s expected to feature Bottega Veneta, Versace, Valentino and or C customer base or an entirely unique home. Anthony Buono, executive man- Saks Fifth Avenue, Dillard’s and Macy’s Barneys New York Co-Op stores, is near concept. For mature retailers, Schuster aging director at CBRE, said, “There’s as anchors. Both centers are scheduled to Buckhead Atlanta, Pomerantz said, “I think concluded, they might achieve “better ROI a lot less risk for a U.S. retailer today open in 2014. “There’s no better retail at there is room for everyone.” with a totally different concept instead of abroad. There have been the pioneers all in the market. At least half the tenants In fact, in markets where luxury has [going after] just 10 percent of the market in Asia and South America. Instead of with be completely new to the market,” exhibited strength, Pomerantz suggested with an old brand.” going into a B mall where they’ve had a said Taubman, speaking of the Sarasota retail developers are smart to enlarge There are select underperforming negative EBITDA [earnings before inter- project. “It’s completely on its way.” their properties. Bal Harbour Shops in retail properties getting a second look est, taxes, depreciation and amortization] Taubman’s progress at the Sarasota Florida is growing with 200,000 square by retailers and mall companies. Caruso experience, they are rationalizing Chile, mall, which originally was set to open in feet of new space to house an addition- Affiliated chief operating officer Paul Colombia, Mexico and, of course, China.” 2010, is evidence of the wider trend in re- al 40 to 50 stores. “The waiting list is so Kurzawa said the owner of The Grove The same dynamic is at work for mall tail real estate of dusting off projects de- long. It is going to be unbelievable,” said and The Americana at Brand in Southern companies. Rather than do the difficult layed during the recession. Construction Pomerantz, who estimated annual sales California is exploring properties “slight- job of turning around depressed assets resumed at the 600,000-square-foot open- per square foot at the shopping center ly off A that can be there.” in the U.S., they have set their sights air Collection at RiverPark in Oxnard, are now tracking around $2,500. “We, along with a lot of other develop- outside the U.S. There is “little ability to Calif., after a three-year postponement. Retailers want into the Bal Harbour ers, are taking a look at our criteria for grow in this country if you want to be fo- Target opened at RiverPark last July, Shops even as it is facing increasing com- properties. You have to have a wider un- cused on this particular [A] asset class,” and Century Theatres will open this petition from the Miami Design District, derwriting standard to take a look at op- said Sandeep Mathrani, ceo of General November, followed by REI and Whole where LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis portunities that might be a little bit more Growth Properties Inc. during a panel Foods in spring of next year. There is Vuitton SA has reportedly promised to price, but will have more of an upside,” discussion on the globalization of retail. space for some 90 shops. “We are seeking locate 12 of its brands. “The good streets he said. Kurzawa noted Caruso Affiliated At the panel, he commented, “The dis- contemporary fashion, dining [and] home are getting stronger. The A malls are get- had success elevating The Waterside at tress in Europe is a true opportunity for goods tenants that will round out the expe- ting stronger,” said Pomerantz. Marina Del Rey, a 140,000-square-foot the rest of the world.” rience,” said James Williams, vice presi- As A malls, which typically generate at retail center formerly known as Marina GGP has a 31.4 percent ownership dent of marketing and communications for least $400 in sales per square foot annu- Waterside, with $11 million in renova- interest in Aliansce, manager of the sec-

w14a006(7)a;13.indd 6 6/13/12 7:05 PM 06132012190704 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 7 A rendering of WWD.COM the Taubman Centers Inc.’s impending Mall at University Luxe Brands Register for Domain Names Town Center in domains such as .skin, .hair and .makeup, Sarasota, Fla. By NINA JONES in the case of L’Oréal. A number of com- panies have applied to register .love, one LONDON — Brands’ Internet domain of which is Richemont. ICANN’s review names look set for a new era. process will determine which company is L’Oréal, Chanel, Richemont and Coach awarded the domain. Richemont also ap- are among the companies that have ap- plied to register .jewelry in English and plied for new Internet domain name end- Chinese, along with .watches in Chinese. ings, applying to register domains includ- Charlie Abrahams, vice president of ing .loreal; .chanel; .chloe, and .coach, Europe, Middle East and Africa at online which would sit alongside established security firm MarkMonitor, described the domains such as .com and .org. development as “the end of the begin- During a press conference in London ning,” in terms of the Internet’s evolu- Wednesday, the Internet Corporation for tion. “Now the important work for brand Assigned Names and Numbers, or ICANN, owners really starts,” said Abrahams, revealed the first 1,930 applications that noting that the Internet’s landscape will have been made for the newly available now “multiply,” with the possibility of gTLDs, or generic top level domains. thousands of new domains coming into Those that have applied for the names existence, and as a result, more opportu- will now go through an independent re- nities for counterfeiters to apply to reg- view process, during which there is a 60- ister domains. day comment period and a seven-month Abrahams said according to a survey ond-largest portfolio of Brazilian shop- on Fifth Avenue in New York. Josh objection period. ICANN expects to post of the firm’s clients last year, most brands ping centers among the four publicly Lindimore, Glimcher’s vice president the results of the initial evaluations in that planned to register new domains held companies in the Brazilian shop- of leasing, said, “These will look like December or January, and expects the were doing so for defensive reasons, ping center sector. Last year, Westfield fashion malls.” first domains to start to go live in the first such as preventing counterfeiters from followed GGP into the Brazilian shop- Like in the U.S., the Canadian quarter of 2013 registering the names. “It’s interesting ping center market by acquiring 50 outlet landscape is getting more Rod Beckstrom, president and chief that some of the high-profile fashion percent of Almeida Junior, which had crowded. European outlet developer executive officer of ICANN, said the aim brands have made the strategic decision five shopping centers and two under McArthurGlen is jumping to North of the program is to “increase competi- to apply for a lot of names and some have development at the time of the acquisi- America for the first time with an out- tion and consumer choice and to foster completely ignored [the program],” said tion. “In Brazil, the issues you face are let project in Vancouver it forecasts innovation.” Beckstrom said ICANN Abrahams. “That partly reflects [each not that different from Australia from will register $1,200 in sales per square had collected about $350 million from brand’s] focus on the Internet.” a retail perspective. Australia had very foot, three times the sales of an average the $185,000 fee per application, which Abrahams also described L’Oréal’s few foreign retailers because Australia U.S. outlet center. The project will have would be used to process the applica- decision to apply to register domains traditional had a very local market. 340,000 square feet of retail space, with tions and set aside $60,000 per applica- such as .skin and .hair as a poten- Historically, it had very high barri- 200,000 square feet scheduled to open in tion for a risk contingency fund. “This is tially “clever piece of marketing.” “If ers to entry that were dropped in the the fall of 2014, divided into 150 stores. expensive.…This is a serious technical they think that will attract consumers, Eighties,” said Lowy. “As the economy “From this, we hope that we will operation to run a top-level domain,” they’ve probably stolen the march [on and consumer grows, global retailers find other North American opportuni- said Beckstrom. “For the security and competitors],” he noted. stability of the Internet, we’ve got to Other fashion and luxury brands make sure that’s done right.” that have made applications to register Alongside registering brand names, domains include Nike, Gucci, Macy’s, some companies have registered generic Swatch, Target, Zara, Next and Wal-Mart.

A rendering of Glimcher Realty For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Trust’s update to the Jersey Gardens outlet center, which is being rebranded as The Outlet Collection Jersey Gardens. Spaces COMMERCIAL will figure out how to do business there ties. We have yet to see anything match- [in Brazil.]” ing the quality of what we do in the REAL ESTATE ADMIN ASSISTANT TO VP SALES HEAD DESIGNER Consumer products Vndr to WM, Trgt Major, nationally branded label seek- Robert Taubman said he’s been U.S.,” said Gary Bond, McArthurGlen’s Detailed, organized, MS Office Profi- ing someone to lead a team in creating spending a lot of time in Asia, and men- managing director of development. cient. Retail Link, Powrpnt a must, 55 a line, from start to finish. In addition to 65K [email protected] Lyndhurst, NJ to being hard working and talented, tioned Taubman could be close to un- Tanger Factory Outlet Centers Inc. the ideal candidate must possess min veiling a “bunch of projects” in China. is forging ahead in Canada as well. 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes 5 years design experience in career re- EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT lated separates/suits, as well as the “You see this acceleration of consumer- With RioCan Real Estate Investment Menswear Showrooms Fast paced Apparel Company seeks an ability to direct a staff and work within D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 experienced, high energy & motivated a structured timeline; Candidate must ism, and there has to be more supply,” Trust, the company bought the individual to fill immediate position. possess knowledge in creating he said. “China is a repeat of the U.S. 161,000-square-foot Cookstown Outlet Duties include maintaining calendars, techpaks and communicating with Showrooms & Lofts meeting and greeting guests, prepar- overseas factories. Proficiency in Il- [shopping center] growth on steroids.” Mall in Cookstown, Ontario, last year, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ing picture packets, and outgoing ship- lustrator, Photoshop and MS-office is a If any sector in the U.S. were on ste- and Tanger ceo Steve Tanger said the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ments of samples, creating and sub- major plus, ability to multi-task a ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 mitting projections in addition to pro- must! Resumes to roids, it would be outlets. According center should double in size by next viding support to the Division head. [email protected] SHOWROOM TO SHARE to Value Retail News, nine new outlet year. The company is also partnering Have showroom to share in 1407 Candidate must possess excellent ver- or value retail projects are expected with RioCan and developer Orlando Bdwy. Brand New, Fully Furnished, bal and written communication skills Private office. and proficiency in MS-Office (Word, to open by the end of the year, push- Corp. to add 312,000 square feet of re- Call 213-798-9990 Excel, Outlook, Powerpoint). Excellent organization, follow up skills, attention ing the total number in the U.S. to 187 tail to the existing 2 million square to detail and the ability to Multi-Task feet at the Heartland Towne Center in is also required. Being bilingual with — and 41 outlets projects are planned a great personality, a big PLUS! for 2013 and 2014. “There is a lot being Mississauga, Ontario, and with RioCan Great opportunity for growth with the talked about because I definitely think on a 350,000-square-foot factory outlet right individual! Qualified candidates (ONLY) can send resumes in confidence there is the buzz. Developers react to center in the suburban Ottawa market via email: [email protected] what retailers are looking for,” said of Kanata. Chris Weilminster, senior vice presi- The list of proposed outlet centers STORE MANAGER PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Henry Beguelin, retailer of luxury dent of leasing at Federal Realty may be swelling, but Steve Tanger PRODUCTIONS leather goods, is seeking a Store Manager Investment Trust, which recently warned that it doesn’t reflect the num- Full service shop to the trade. for our NYC Store. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The ideal candidate should have: broke ground on Assembly Row in ber of outlet centers that will come to -the ability to network effectively to develop a clientele. Somerville, Mass. fruition. “My guess is that at most, with -a strong fashion sense The first phase of Assembly Row the exception of Tanger and Simon, -the ability to maintain visual standards with in the store will have 315,000 square feet of retail, maybe 15 percent will actually be -4-5 years management experience in a including 150,000 square feet of soft opened and built. Historically, it is less luxury or specialty retailer -good analytical & organizational skills goods outlet concepts. Glimcher Realty than 10 percent. I am giving the benefit -the ability to proactively generate ideas to develop business opportunities Trust is busy updating and rebrand- of the doubt because there are very and maximize sales ing its current outlets. Jersey Gardens sophisticated, well-funded companies Qualified candidates should forward a cover letter and resume to: will become The Outlet Collection that have found sites,” he said. “The [email protected] Jersey Gardens, and the SuperMall in litmus test will be if you make calls to www.henrybeguelinusa.com Auburn, Wash., will become The Outlet these people on Sept. 1 and ask them to Collection Seattle. Glimcher is pouring show you photographic evidence that $60 million into redeveloping the outlet they’ve actually broken ground. Then, centers, which will feature entrances you will actually know for certain if (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] reminiscent of the Louis Vuitton store they are going to deliver by 2013.” 8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 WWD.COM De la Renta Turns Attention to Retail

{Continued from page one} which was done in a limited ca- in November, Bolen is consid- pacity. There is currently a li- ering using a similar concept cense for men’s wear in Central in more mountain-friendly lo- and South America under the O cales. And despite the economic Oscar label. “If I read one more unrest in Greece, the executive time that Oscar is one of the team acquired direct control most well-dressed men in the of the Oscar de la Renta store world and don’t have a way to in Athens last summer. There bring that to our business, I’m is also interest in developing a going to jump out a window,” retail presence in airports, and Bolen said. “Look, there are a perhaps a stand-alone bridal lot of extremely well-run, well- store in a major city. designed brands out there doing When the Madison Avenue men’s wear. We have to make store relaunches in late sure that we’re going to do it in September or early October, it a way that is different and that will include what used to be the is going to be successful. We 2,000-square-foot Paul & Shark found a designer who we think shop. Instead of having an as- gets Oscar and could bring his sortment of items merchandised ideas to men’s wear well. We’ve throughout the boutique, there also found a businessperson will be designated areas for spe- who we think could help us, so cific categories. “This will be our I am studying it closely. But I first store where we really have have made no decision. I am not the world of Oscar and all things announcing men’s wear.” presented exactly in the way we Children’s wear has proven to want them presented,” Bolen said. be a solid business for the com- Construction is also under- pany. Getting into that sector way in London at 130 Mount “really was an accident,” accord- Street near the corner of ing to Bolen. The company used Berkeley Square. What used to When the Madison Avenue store is remodeled this fall, it will occupy what used to be Paul & Shark. Here, a rendering. leftover fabrics to make girls’ be Nicky Clarke’s salon is being dresses for charity benefits in transformed into an Oscar de la To see things through, ly confident about ways Punta Cana offers sun- New York and Los Angeles, and Renta store. With an opening David Aste recently joined as to manage retail well,” glasses, embroidered then sold every piece. “There planned shortly after the debut vice president, retail. With ex- Bolen said. caftans and more casual wasn’t a lot of merchandise but of the Upper East Side location, perience at Bloomingdale’s While not de- apparel. The aim is that I thought, ‘Hmm...maybe there the 3,000-square-foot U.K. out- in Boston and as the former claring the smaller, women who shop there is a business opportunity here,’” post will showcase accessories, vice president of boutiques at 1,000-square-foot Punta will seek out the brand he said. “It took us a long time to beauty, home decor, children’s Chanel, Aste has “a lot of excit- Cana concept a success, at Neiman Marcus or figure out how to approach chil- wear, ready-to-wear and bridal. ing ideas about how to expand Bolen said he may ex- Saks Fifth Avenue once dren’s. Oscar, Eliza [Bolen who is After more than a few fits and our business,” Bolen said. periment more with the they go home to Chicago creative director, licensing] and I starts, the company is pleased to Retail currently accounts for concept in places like or wherever they live. all feel that the children’s thing have finally lined up a London roughly one-third of the designer’s Aspen, Colo., Innsbruck, Alex Bolen “The way that people can become inappropriate very flagship. With London gearing overall business, with wholesale, Austria, or Forte dei lead their lives in New quickly. Little girls dressing up up for the Summer Olympics, fragrance and beauty comprising Marmi, Italy, provided they can York and London is different like women is not really some- Bolen plans to have signage and the bulk of sales. Industry sourc- get the right team and formula than [they do in] Santa Barbara. thing we want to have our brand brand marketing in the store’s es estimated the company’s 2011 in place. “Could it be in the next It doesn’t mean there aren’t cus- associated with so we wanted to windows by the time sports fans sales to be about $150 million. five years a meaningful portion of tomers who are fans of our brand find a designer who approached descend on the city in late July. The company only opened our retail portfolio? Could it be that we ought to be addressing children’s in an appropriate way.” Asked why he feels so strong- its first freestanding store in 10, 20, 30 more stores? Perhaps,” their lifestyle needs there and While Bolen would consider ly about retail when others are 2004, Bolen said, but he sees it Bolen said. “At the end of the day, we want to figure out the right new licenses for items such as laser-focused on digital, Bolen one day accounting for up to 50 when we take on a store lease way to do that. So we’re look- home, but is more inclined to go said, “We have become increas- percent of revenues. “There is and spend money, that’s a dollar ing into evolving our retail con- with partnerships instead of li- ingly confident in the risk-re- an important profit portion of that I’ve got to get a return on. I cept — I want to be clear we’re censing deals, the aim is to build ward of managing a retail busi- retail. If it’s well-run, meaning have to be careful. We’re a family not diffusing our label, we’re not the brand over the long-term, he ness. Don’t misunderstand: your cost structure and stores business and it’s important that doing a cheaper brand none of said. “Unfortunately, as a brand E-commerce has many attractive are appropriate and your inven- all of our capital get appropriate that — it’s how do we merchan- management matter, what we’re characteristics. And wholesale tory is well-managed, it can be returns. I think a lot about when dise well the Oscar brand in a finding today [is] it’s difficult to will continue to be a critical part a very profitable part of your we put money somewhere, is it context that is outside of a New match our brand goals with our of our business going forward. organization. I would love to going to work for us in exactly the York or a London?” licensees’ goals. There’s a mis- As we’ve opened our own stores tell you that all of our stores are right way. You know I don’t have a Men’s wear is another cat- match in time horizons....Oscar and have learned what works profitable, they’re not. We’ve listed stock that...” egory that is up for consider- frequently says that he is a con- and what doesn’t, we’ve become had a mix. But we’ve learned Knowing vacationers aren’t ation. It has been about three trol freak in the best way. He has increasingly focused on expand- through good news and bad about to buy a $6,000 cocktail years since the company has taught us to be control freaks in a ing our retail presence.” news but now we’re increasing- dress, the Tortuga Bay store in sold men’s wear in its boutiques, way that is useful for our brand.”

shifted its fashion focus into been due to join the party on FASHION SCOOPS high gear earlier this year when Wednesday’s visit, but he is the division partnered with still convalescing following Jeremy Scott to create clothing his hospital stay for a bladder NARCISO NEWS: Narciso Rodriguez FOX’S FASHION HUNT: Dolce & inspired by Bart Simpson. infection. — NINA JONES will soon be unveiling a special Gabbana, Benetton, H&M, The attention drawn by the collection for Kohl’s. According Forever 21 and C&A are among limited-edition pieces, which THE COMEBACK KID: Ten years to sources, the designer has the brands inking licensing became a central part of Scott’s after she first appeared on been putting together a limited- partnerships with Twentieth collection, helped the company “Project Runway” as a guest run capsule collection for the Century Fox Consumer Products. shore up its latest crop of deals. judge, Patricia Field will be back retailer, which is expected Dolce & Gabbana will design an — MARCY MEDINA at it when the new season gets to serve as the kickoff for a infant clothing line launching under way July 19 on Lifetime. series of such collaborations at this summer that will take ROYAL VISIT: The grand Jubilee The stylist and costume designer Kohl’s this fall. Little further inspiration from the studio’s weekend might be over, but will get some help with the information could be learned at animated “Rio” franchise, while Britain’s royals are back critiquing from “Parenthood” press time, and Rodriguez could Benetton will develop “The on the engagement trail to actress Lauren Graham. (The latter not be reached for comment. Simpsons” line under its Sisley celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s may surprise the 16 competitors Rodriguez is favored by brand for fall, followed by a anniversary year. The Queen, with her know-how — her actresses like Julianna Margulies and spring collection. Forever 21 will along with the Duke and The Duchess mother was a fashion buyer.) Claire Danes, as well as First Lady roll out a small assortment of Duchess of Cambridge, visited of Cambridge The aspiring designers will

Michelle Obama, who wore one of his “Simpsons” T-shirts for men and Nottingham in England’s East IMAGES WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION JONES/PA DAVID PHOTO BY have thousands of people to dresses the night President Obama women, while Fox’s long-term Midlands Wednesday, as part impress Friday night, when was elected. In 2010, he also did a global partner H&M is currently of the British monarch’s tour topped off her outfit with a navy Heidi Klum hosts a live “Project limited-edition collection for eBay. selling new “Simpsons”-themed of the country to celebrate her disc-shaped Rachel Trevor- Runway” fashion show of their A collaboration with a designer boys’ wear. The Swedish retailer Diamond Jubilee. Morgan hat. The Queen wore work in Times Square. Michael like Rodriguez will further will also make “Ice Age” Ts to The duchess wore the blue a turquoise silk tweed Stewart Kors, Nina Garcia and Tim Gunn will boost Kohl’s fashion appeal. The coincide with the summer sequel tweed Missoni coat she first Parvin coat and dress, with a also be on hand to eye the new retailer also has the Simply Vera “Ice Age: Continental Drift,” as sported at an appearance at matching wide-brimmed hat, talent before Klum tells one of Vera Wang line, among others. will midtier retailer C&A. London’s Fortnum & Mason also by Rachel Trevor-Morgan. the newbies, “auf Wiedersehen.” — MARC KARIMZADEH Fox Consumer Products earlier this year, and she The Duke of Edinburgh had — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: French men’s wear purveyor Arnys has Award-Winning Style been acquired by LVMH Tonys host Neil Patrick Harris hit all the right notes Sunday night, at least Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Page MW2 attire-wise. When it comes to style, his look is “A” OK. Page MW14

SECTION II June 14, 2012

PREPPING FOR PITTI Men’s Wear’s Growth Expected to Continue Despite Challenges No slowdown seen for designer labels despite worldwide economic issues.

byKATYA FOREMAN

MEN’S WEAR, fashion’s late bloomer, is in full flower, and it continues to sidestep glob- al economic woes and political turmoil. Courting a new breed of male customer — one who likes to shop and is unabashedly into fashion — brands are looking to exploit better growth in the men’s market, from old tailoring players loosening their ties to cultivate a more modern, fashion-forward, lifestyle-oriented image to fashion players hungry to increase their market share. The men’s market is outperforming women’s in all categories, according to a report by Bain & Co. analyzing the global luxury goods market in 2011. In turn, all lux- Green ury players are focusing more and more on men’s categories, with ad hoc formats and targeted Asian product offers, it said. China offers big opportunity for luxury-branded men’s denim. Pastures “We’re focusing not just on formal tailor- Men’s wear is expected to ing and all the traditional elements of the business but all the needs of the client, and continue its strong showing we’re particularly focusing on strong fash- at retail as traditional ion,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise man- brands branch out into more ager of men’s wear at Barneys New York. comprehensive offerings “Our strategy is geared for opportunity and the Web is an enormous opportunity for us. and new players jump in. As We had tremendous growth this year again merchants prepare for Pitti — strong, strong double-digit increases in men’s and we’re growing the men’s penetra- Uomo, nontailored looks are tion on Barneys.com,” he said. expected to garner the most “The consumer is very well read, very educated, they understand fashion like attention, including styles they’ve never really done before. Although it such as this green motorcycle- generally is a slower-moving business than women’s, there is more and more interest in inspired leather jacket layered fashion brands or fashion trends,” said Tom over a suit separate from Carven, Ott, senior vice president and general mer- the fair’s featured designer. For chandise manager of men’s wear for Saks Fifth Avenue. “There is that thirst from the more ones to watch from Pitti, customer for what’s new, having something see pages MW10 and MW11. first, something exclusive. While we are pro- ceeding cautiously, I think that there are a lot of things to do to drive the business and go forward.” The launch of London’s new three-day international men’s wear showcase — London Collections: Men, which opens to- night — has added further clout to the sec- tor. The event will be followed by the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show in Florence next week, then men’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. “Women’s usually gets the full attention of the market, obviously being more glamor- ous and fun, but there is such a renaissance

PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA FRANCK PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II LVMH to Acquire Arnys by MILES SOCHA A runway look PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis from Arnys. Vuitton has acquired Arnys, a French men’s wear purveyor with roots stretching back to 1933 — and a plum retail site on the Left Bank here, WWD has learned.

The French luxury giant — which is put- GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY ting management and financial muscle be- hind cult cobbler Berluti and transforming it into a hyper-luxurious lifestyle label for men The store is on — plans to use Arnys’ made-to-measure ex- the corner of pertise to launch Berluti into that business. Waverly Place. The historic Arnys boutique at 14 Rue de Sèvres, with a corner location across from the new Hermès flagship and a stone’s Saturdays Expands to West Village throw from the LVMH-owned department store Le Bon Marché, is expected to become by JEAN E. PALMIERI The store opening will coincide with the a flagship Berluti unit in mid-2013. launch of the brand’s summer apparel col- Former Louis Vuitton executive Antoine NEW YORK — Saturdays Surf, the direc- lection, which is carried around the world Arnault, son of luxury titan Bernard tional retailer and sportswear brand, will in retailers including Barneys New York, Arnault, is piloting Berluti’s expansion. He open its third location on Friday on the Bloomingdale’s, Ron Herman, Colette, plans to enlarge its existing boutique net- residential streets of the West Village here. Lane Crawford and Beams. work and seek larger locations to house a The 740-square-foot space on the corner The new store will have an open, airy growing range of products, including ready- of Waverly Place and Perry Street was for- feel that is designed to appeal to those “liv- to-wear, under the creative leadership of merly a restaurant. It will have a “similar ing, working and surfing in New York City.” Alessandro Sartori, formerly a designer at aesthetic” to the company’s first store on Collett said that although it is “geo- Ermenegildo Zegna. Crosby Street in SoHo, which has been graphically quite close” to the SoHo unit, Sartori is slated to unveil his second open since the summer of 2009, according the West Village is “a completely new Berluti collection on June 29 here during to Morgan Collett, one of the founders. social environment. It’s a totally differ- men’s fashion week. has earned a cult following due to its prox- “We’ve wanted to open a space in the ent vibe with all the restaurants and the LVMH is to acquire Arnys from Jean imity to government offices and the influen- West Village for years,” he said. “We think Sunday walking.” and Michel Grimbert, members of the third tial college Sciences Po. it is the perfect location to represent the He said he and his partners, Josh Rosen generation of the founding family, and to ab- Last year, the firm broke with tradition brand and what is has evolved into. We and Colin Tunstall, “really live downtown. sorb its craftsmen and boutique staff. Jean and started staging runway shows during took over the space in March and have We spend all our time below 14th Street.” Grimbert, 65, is expected to remain active in men’s fashion week in Paris, parading its been working on it since then. We had to So it didn’t really enter their minds to open the business and atelier, with Sartori lead- country-squire apparel and accessories. gut it and start from scratch. But we made a store uptown. “We don’t spend time on ing Berluti’s made-to-measure activities. It The future of Arnys’ rtw and other prod- the space very Saturdays.” the Upper East or Upper West Sides,” he is understood the label on handmade suits ucts could not immediately be learned. The Although the store won’t have a back- said. “And the West Village has the aesthet- will read Berluti by Arnys. brand is due to present its spring-summer yard like the unit on Crosby Street, there ic that is in line with our brand.” It is understood LVMH could reveal the 2013 collection on July 1. will be an espresso bar near the front In addition to the two New York City Arnys deal as early as today. Financial terms Arnys also operates a store in Megève, serving the company’s unique blend of La units, the company operates a store in could not immediately be learned. France, and its products are carried in Colombe coffee, and benches both inside Daikanyama, Tokyo. That location opened According to market sources, Arnys gen- about 20 stores in Japan plus a handful of and out so customers can hang out. in March and has performed well so far, erates revenues of around 10 million euros, multibrand boutiques in the U.S. Inside, the merchandise mix will in- according to Collett. “It was a big, mature or $12.6 million at current exchange, and According to market sources, French clude the company’s assortment of men’s step for us,” he said. “But the response has employs 20 people. retail-to-luxury group PPR also kicked the casualwear including swim trunks and been amazing.” Best known for its handmade suits and tires at Arnys as the rival luxury groups seek graphic T-shirts, and will also include surf- Collett said the brand, which is now 60 tab-collared Forestière city jacket, Arnys to bulk up their assets in the fast-growing boards and accessories from brands such percent wholesale and 40 percent retail, has has dressed the likes of Pablo Picasso, men’s arena. as Baxter of California grooming products, no immediate plans to add more stores. “We Ernest Hemingway and, more recently, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM Salt sunglasses, Porter X Saturdays bags, want to get the Village store performing effi- Pierre Bergé and François-Henri Pinault. It KATYA FOREMAN Vans sneakers and Patagonia wet suits. ciently and just continue what we’re doing.” J. Lindeberg Revives Wholesale Fashion Collection by DAVID LIPKE spring 2013 and the company is aiming to Outside the U.S., J. Lindeberg’s biggest be in about 40 to 50 doors by next year, with initiative is in China, where the company J. LINDEBERG is relaunching its wholesale the emphasis on directional, independent has inked leases to open 25 directly owned fashion business in the U.S., following sev- specialty stores. stores over the next six months, with the eral years of focusing on its golf business in The U.S. business is now run directly first one opening in July in Beijing’s Indigo America. The move is part of an overall re- as a subsidiary of Stockholm-based J. Mall. “China will become our largest mar- structuring of the U.S. division, following the Lindeberg, as part of a global strategy to ket. Within two years, it will equal our sales end of a joint-venture agreement in October take back distribution from local part- in the rest of the world,” said Engström. with People’s Liberation, which had over- ners. Last fall, the company set up a new The China strategy comes on the seen the brand in the U.S. since 2008. headquarters and showroom in New York, heels of the acquisition of a majority of “Our fashion business has been pretty at 54 Greene Street, and moved distribu- J. Lindeberg last fall by partners Anders much nonexistent in the U.S. for the past tion to a New Jersey warehouse from the Holch Povlsen, Allan Warburg and Dan three years,” said Stefan Engström, who Los Angeles facility previously used by Friis, who have expertise in the China returned to the Sweden-based company as People’s Liberation. market. The trio are partners in Bestseller chief executive officer in April. He previ- “About 85 percent of our worldwide Fashion Group China, which was estab- ously ran J. Lindeberg from 2007 to 2010 sales are now from directly operated busi- lished in 1996 and operates over 5,000 and holds a minority stake in the company. nesses,” said Engström. The only local stores in that market. The J. Lindeberg fashion collection distribution deals that remain in place J. Lindeberg is primarily a men’s brand has only been available in the U.S. in the are in Japan, South Korea, Southeast Asia, but last fall the company reintroduced company’s stores, located in SoHo in New Dubai and Canada. a long-dormant women’s collection in York, the Beverly Center in Los Angeles Over the past year, a new sales and cus- Europe. Engström is considering bringing and the Aventura Mall in Miami. Under the tomer service team was hired for the U.S., the women’s fashion line to the company’s People’s Liberation joint venture, the golf with Erik Ulin appointed managing direc- U.S. retail stores for spring. business was the centerpiece of U.S. distri- tor of J. Lindeberg’s U.S. business. He was The company is aiming to expand its bution and is now sold in about 250 green previously a director at FTI Consulting, retail base here, with plans to open two to grass shops. with expertise in corporate finance and re- four new stores in the next 12 to 36 months. “The most important part of our strat- structuring advisory services. Engström is looking at locations on Bleecker egy here is to relaunch our fashion busi- Last year, the U.S. accounted for $10 Street in New York and spaces in Los ness. That’s where we see the biggest op- million in sales, with 60 percent of that in Angeles, Chicago, Boston and Washington. portunity for growth, as golf is a limited golf and 40 percent from the three retail “The J. Lindeberg brand is fantastic and market,” said Engström. This fall, the J. stores. Globally, J. Lindeberg sales were very well known — but it was mismanaged Lindeberg fashion line will be reintro- $65 million in 2011, a low-double-digit in- for some years,” admitted Engström. “The duced to about 15 wholesale accounts, in- crease from 2010. The company has been business had gotten diluted, with too much cluding Confederacy in Los Angeles, Rand rebuilding turnover from a low of $50 mil- denim and logo-type product. We have cre- + Statler in San Francisco and Clothing lion in 2009, following the financial crisis, ated an entirely new platform to deliver a Brigade in Ohio, which were former brand and volume is now on par with 2006 levels, higher-quality product that is more sophis- stalwarts. A larger rollout is planned for said Engström. A fall look from J. Lindeberg. ticated and at a higher price point.” are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. Android is a trademark Google ® and iPhone ® iPad

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To advertise, contact Jenny Glassberg at 212-286-5272 or [email protected] MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s WeekMen’s SECTION Week II The Florentine Scene The city of Florence during Pitti Uomo is always jam-packed and brimming with events. Here’s a look at some of the new shops and eateries awaiting visitors.

RAY OF LIFE FERRAGAMO Ray of Life is an invitation to a virtual jour- Salvatore Ferragamo is set to pay tribute to ney imagined by Jonathan Riss (creative Marilyn Monroe with an exhibition dedicated director and founder of the luxury brand to the American icon held at the company’s Jay Ahr), conceived by Dassault Systèmes, museum in Florence from June 20 to Jan. 28. supported by retailer Luisa Via Roma and In order to re-create a complete and au- directed by filmmaker Asa Mader. In the thentic portrait of the actress, the retrospec- birthplace of the Renaissance, the viewer is tive will include film clips, pictures, inter- projected in a “realistic” futuristic fashion national magazine covers, Monroe’s original

Ray of Life

Titto

TITTO family. The venue uniquely blends the two Everybody loves gelato; how about making distinctive Japanese and Florentine styles, your own cup? At Titto, clients can choose with bonsai trees standing below frescoes of their flavor — chocolate or cheesecake, the lily, the symbol of the city. — F.R. among others — and topping, and pay by Genten Firenze; Vicolo de’ Cerchi, 1; the kilo. The ice cream maker machines are gentenfirenze.com easy to use, and the toppings include gummy bears, almonds, nuts and fresh fruit. Genten The shop is tiny and cozy, and lit up by orange walls — a great spot for a DIY ex- perience. — FABIANA REPACI Titto; Via de’ Pucci, 15/rosso; Hours: Sunday experience while being surrounded by tradi- writings, 30 pairs of shoes and more than to Thursday, noon-8 p.m., Friday and tion and century old monuments. — F.R. 50 outfits worn by the diva on the set of her Saturday, noon-11 p.m.; titto.it Ray of Life; June 15 to 22; Piazza Strozzi most important movies, such as “Niagara,” “Some Like It Hot” and “The Asphalt TOUCH DELPHINARIUM Jungle,” among others, and both in her pri- Florence has always been associated with Fantastical animals and surreal creatures vate and public life. tradition and good food, but with a bit of in- will animate the room of Florence’s histori- In addition, curators Stefania Ricci and novation, too. This is exactly what you’ll find cal Palazzo Ricasoli, house of the Galleria Sergio Risaliti analyzed some popular por- at Touch, a new restaurant located just a few Antonella Villanova, which will host the traits of Monroe taken by famous photog- steps away from Titto. first exhibition of jewelry designer Delfina Orders can be placed through iPads, Delettrez, from June 20 to Sept. 10. Curated Ferragamo which allow customers to peruse the menu by Emanuela Nobile Mino, the retrospec- listing international plates and a wide tive will celebrate the five-year career of choice of wines, in addition to providing vid- Delettrez, who is the daughter of Silvia eos on the preparation of the meals. Venturini Fendi and who built a reputation The restaurant also features a recreation in the jewelry business with her imaginative room, where patrons can lounge comfortably pieces, combining a high dose of creativity and enjoy a Wi-Fi connection, flip through a with high-end craftsmanship. Spanning five book or play chess. rooms, which will be dedicated to different Prices range from 30 to 40 euros, or themes and collections and will be deco- $38 to $50 at current exchange. — F.R. BLUE VELVET rated to exalt the inspiration behind each Touch; Via Fiesolana 18r; Opens at 7 p.m.; The freshly inaugurated club is located just a touchflorence.com few steps away from Piazza della Signoria and it is exactly what was missing in Florence — given its size and scope in a centrally located area. The 984-square-foot venue features a night blue decor, with velvet chaise lounges and plenty of candles for atmosphere. raphers showing a link with masterpieces On the dance floor, music ranges from of the ancient past. For example, a portrait garage to R&B, and it’s always possible to taken by Bert Stern in 1962 is juxtaposed step in earlier for an aperitivo with a buffet with Canova’s sculpture “Ninfa dormien- that starts at 7 p.m. The locale has appointed te,” and “The Alessandro Morente” marble Tuesdays as international night dedicated to sculpture is compared with a shot of the ac- foreigners living in the city. — F.R. tress by Cecil Beaton. Blue Velvet; Via Castello d’Altafronte, 14r; The rooms of Palazzo Feroni, which hous- Touch Opens at 7 p.m.; bluevelvetfirenze.it es Ferragamo’s museum, will also display prestigious works of art on loan from inter- national museums, such as Andy Warhol’s GENTEN Delphinarium “Four Marilyns” and a “Marilyn” collage by Japanese fashion group Kuipo Co. has Italian artist Mimmo Rotella, which will ap- opened its first Genten boutique in the creation, the exhibition will include a se- pear in the catalogue along with images of heart of Florence, located in the antique lection of one-of-a-kind and limited-edition all the exhibition’s clothing and documents Palazzo Cerchi. pieces from the designer’s 10 collections, such and a number of essays on the many aspects The store covers two floors, one dedi- as Anatomik from 2009 and Methaphysics, of Monroe’s complex personality. cated to the display of the brand’s accesso- which launched this year. In addition, new The exhibition will be inaugurated with a ries, while the other features a workshop pieces created for the gallery will be shown private cocktail party on June 19. — A.T. where Florentine artisans customize bags, exclusively. — ALESSANDRA TURRA Museo Salvatore Ferragamo; June 20 travel cases and small leather goods, with Delphinarium; June 20 to Sept. 10; Galleria to Jan. 28; Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza the revisited coat of arms of the Cerchi Blue Velvet Antonella Villanova, Palazzo Ricasoli Santa Trinità

MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II

Luxury Sportswear Seen as Sales Driver

{Continued from page MW1} is [shifting]; it’s interesting to is really excelling, more so than right now for men’s wear. People know they are viewing brands classic right now.” Barneys New have stuck to their guns, being differently. They don’t see it as York has a “very, very important very consistent with their prod- my father’s clothes.” focus” coming through from July ucts, and are benefiting greatly,” While several men’s brands on men’s accessories, specifi- said designer Neil Barrett, who are fleshing out their collec- cally leather goods and footwear, will show in Milan on June 23 at tion, for Saks’ Ott it is also a time he said, adding, “It will take us the Palazzo del Senato. when specialist vendors are through the third and fourth With men’s talent “the stron- excelling, such as artisan shoe quarters with a lot of opportu- gest it has ever been,” Stephen brands and dress shirt lines. “It’s nity there.” Ayres, head of fashion for men’s, like the old philosophy of going Giuseppe Zanotti at Pitti ladies and children’s wear at to the best butcher to get your Uomo will launch a luxury Liberty of London, feels the sec- meat and the best shoemaker for men’s footwear collection, tor has gone from being almost shoes. I think the best custom- Giuseppe Homme, com- an afterthought to a stand-alone ers really understand that the prising sneaker, loafer force. Men’s wear sales for this designer brands really aren’t and sandals lines. The spring at Liberty were up 17 going to be able to specialize in designs will feature em- percent over last year, driven everything.” Men’s accessories, bellishments, such as by casualwear brands such as such as belts, and footwear also crystals. A.P.C., Folk and Norse Projects. continue to bubble, with men in- “If you look at Accessories sales were up even terested in having, like women, brands that are fash- more — increasing 48 percent the right accessory for their life- ion forward and suc- versus 2011 — led by sunglasses, style, he said. cessful in men’s wear, bags and ties. Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, ceo of you can only really Indeed, contemporary fash- Hugo Boss, which is currently count them on one ion is among the market’s hottest implementing a major reno- hand, there are very segments, with a new generation vation program at 10 key flag- few,” said Sebastian of price-friendly, cool, creative ships worldwide, said: “Men are Suhl, Givenchy’s labels leading the way. These changing in terms of what they ceo who, only a include AMI, Carven Homme, think about how they need to couple of months Melinda Gloss and Kenzo. At the be dressed. You saw this in the into his new posi- other end of the scale, retailers fragrance [and] skin care area tion, said that he cited strong demand for ultra- around 20 years ago when men is “objectively” im- luxury products, with premium became interested in making pressed at how rap- labels such as Brioni (recently sure that they were taking care idly the house has developed acquired by PPR), footwear of themselves.” such a complete men’s collec- brand Berluti (being expanded While men’s is an expand- tion. The executive said he into apparel by parent LVMH ing market, for Lahrs it is also got a major taste of the “con- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) one that is consolidating around temporary relevance” of the and Tom Ford cited among the fewer players. As one of the brand when he attended the brands of choice for wealthy men’s wear giants, Hugo Boss Paris leg of Jay-Z and Kanye male shoppers around the projects sales of 3 billion euros, West’s “Watch the Throne” world. Discreet luxury fabrica- or $3.7 billion, by 2015 and an tour at Bercy Stadium in tions are the new bling. earnings before interest, taxes, early June. The rappers both Francesco Pesci, chief ex- depreciation and amortiza- wore Givenchy for the gig, as ecutive officer of Brioni, con- tion margin of 25 percent. The did many of their entourage. Brunello Cucinelli is focusing firmed the house will continue company’s top markets world- “When you walked in there, on “elegant-sporty” looks for to invest more in marketing wide are Germany, the U.S. and Givenchy was just there, you his spring line. and advertising nontailored China, where Boss staged a high- felt like you owned the show. It products, the segment that has profile runway show last month was quite remarkable. For a cou- Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré difficult to predict the final shown the strongest growth to kick off a major expansion of ture house that only two or three store, given the size of our col- outcome. Major events like the for the label over the past four its retail presence there. years ago wasn’t particularly lections in both ladies and elections in Greece could give years. “This is because we think “Men tended to be already present in men’s wear in gen- men’s, is insufficient to properly a clearer direction in the next that Brioni is an icon of men’s interested in the better prod- eral, and what men’s wear there showcase that.” few weeks. However, we feel the elegance and has to be this uct probably 10, 15 years ago, was tended to be super classic, Alessandro Cremonesi, chief U.S., Asia and Japan are giving model not only in tailored cloth- but very often it went into local within two years to already be executive officer of Jil Sander, positive signals of growth for ing but also in, for example, brands,” he said. “I think today there and to achieve that with expects the return of founding our brand.” outerwear,” he said. The Italian Hugo Boss is taking advantage fairly balanced growth, I think designer Jil Sander to the cre- Patrizio di Marco, president suit maker last year for the first of the fact that they are more it’s tremendous.” ative helm of the brand will have and ceo of Gucci, is also upbeat time in the company’s history and more interested in world- For Suhl, men’s ready-to- “a strong impact throughout all on men’s wear. “Men’s wear has featured nontailored apparel in wide renowned brands with a wear represents the segment product categories...and will a weight which is not far from its advertising campaigns. reputation, with a service, with with the biggest growth poten- grant a refocusing of the luxury women’s,” he said. “Overall if As men’s collections continue a retail presence in the most im- tial for the house. “If you consid- aspects of the brand’s offer and you include both [women’s and to expand, the whole cartogra- portant cities of the world, and er a country like China, which the reintroduction of key ele- men’s], we are talking, for fiscal phy of men’s wear is shifting and I wouldn’t be surprised if this is a very important market in ments of tailoring.” In particular, year 2011, [a] 400 million euros creating intersections between current consolidation into more general and one which is very the men’s collection will profit business for ready-to-wear over- segments, noted Tancrède de worldwide brands is going to important to Givenchy, it’s not from a new focus on strong tai- all, so it’s very much serious for Lalun, general merchandise continue.” impossible that within the next loring and sartorial excellence, a brand that is still 56 percent manager for men’s and women’s Simultaneously, fashion three years that men’s could be he said, adding that the new leather goods.” apparel at Printemps. With con- brands are building muscle in as large as women’s wear, count- developments within the collec- The men’s category, he said, temporary players such as The the segment. ing leather goods,” he said. tions will reflect onto the brand’s has much potential and Gucci Kooples, Sandro and Zadig & “The best news in the men’s “It would be kind of easy with mono-brand shops as well as its has plans to open men’s stores in Voltaire “investing enormously business right now is designer an artistic director like Riccardo e-commerce platform, which will the near future. in the suit category,” the influ- fashion,” said Kalenderian. Tisci, who is able to create great be raised into a true extension “The growth [of men’s] has ence of fashion players, from “Niche brands that have a silhouettes and prints and things of its retail concept. been impressive especially in Hedi Slimane during his Dior unique iconic statement are like that, I think that is expect- When asked about the the past few years, and this ap- Homme years, to current young driving the trends.” He cited ed. But to be able to leverage change in the male consumer’s plies to the men’s rtw and, equal- acts like The Kooples, has meant Givenchy and Balmain as among something that is wearable and buying habits over the past few ly, also to the shoes. There is so “historic brands have under- the brands with the highest sell- very well structured as a col- seasons, he replied: “I think much we can do and so we’re stood that they have to react, throughs. lection, whether it’s knitwear, the most relevant change was definitely serious.” modernize their cuts.” “The same thing is true for T-shirts, suiting, shirts, etc., I in their approach — which is Currently men’s accounts for Barneys’ Kalenderian said: footwear, the hot news in foot- think that’s pretty remarkable.” rather conscious and quality approximately 35 to 40 percent “When you think about how a wear is designer — Louboutin is In terms of retail footprint, driven. Especially in the luxury of Gucci’s business, with rtw and luxury company such as Zegna extremely strong for us, Lanvin Suhl is also thinking big. “We segment, men’s parameters are shoes being the strongest catego- can find a way to speak to some- continues to be important, want to open larger and larg- closely connected to durability, ries. The house has also been one in a modern way, it does Balenciaga….It’s all driven by er stores,” he said. “We have fit and comfort.” investing in building the men’s show the way men are chang- casual, most of that, extremely never really opened, to my He acknowledged that leather goods business. ing their perception of brand. advanced sneakers,” he said. mind, stores sufficiently large to with the current state of the “Before, it was probably I think it’s more of a question “The styling is very strong and properly house both men’s and European economy there is to skewed towards the casual that the mentality of the client it’s fascinating how that business women’s collections. Even the “strong uncertainty. It is very {Continued on page MW8}

MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II

{Continued from page MW6} tain our dominant position in so many people dressed in a messenger, but we introduced a this market. We have one of the European manner. When you see A spring look whole world of briefcases….It’s world’s strongest brand names these things you get a sense of from Liberty’s a growing segment,” di Marco associated with men’s wear as how much people are drawn to relaunched private added. a huge asset, both in emerging our lifestyle,” he said. label collection. Asked how important it was markets such as Russia, China Among the hot young men’s to have a strong fashion voice and India, and also in our more talents preparing to present in men’s, di Marco didn’t have mature markets, where we con- their collections in Europe, to hesitate. “I believe Gucci has tinue to perform very well.” Paris-based Damir Doma, who to have a strong fashion voice For Europe’s men’s wear this weekend is due to open his in both worlds and I think we players, growth in emerging brand’s first flagship in Paris op- do,” he said. markets continues to offset posite the Comme des Garçons Versace over the last couple weak spots, such as Italy, and store in a courtyard off the Rue of seasons has seen its men’s continues to be carried by Asian du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, said business overtake women’s in markets. Though its economy is he’s lightened up for spring. terms of growth, according to slowing slightly, China’s luxury “I wanted to do a collection Gian Giacomo Ferraris, the market is still growing four to that is against my usual way of house’s ceo, who expects the five times faster than the U.S. working, something light and trend to continue. The brand and Western Europe, according more free and random, which plans to develop men’s in all to the latest study by Bain & Co. I find is very difficult. If you’re markets and increase the prod- for spring 2012. a person who likes to think in a uct range to include beachwear Italy’s sluggish local market controlled way and be very con- and underwear, he said. has meant local players are get- ceptual, it’s not easy to just let “Men’s wear has always been ting more aggressive with ex- go and that’s what this season is central to the Armani brand, ports, said Raffaello Napoleone, about; to create a superlight, al- especially as the label is so ceo of Pitti Immagine, adding most beach collection.” closely associated with tailoring that around 55 percent of exports Designer Christopher and has a reputation for often- are to European markets. In Raeburn has divided his spring androgynous styling for women. more than 20 years at the trade collection into the following Today men’s wear is a strong show, Napoleone has seen the sections: “Remade,” featuring part of our business and a stra- number of independent stores limited-edition numbered gar- tegic aspect for our future,” said in Italy fall to fewer than 45,000 ments made from deconstructed Fabio Mancone, global head of from close to 90,000. “What used authentic military pieces, with communication and licenses for to be the uniqueness of the a mix of waterproof fabrics and Giorgio Armani Group, adding Italian market is changing be- meshes, and “Lightweight,” with that the company is “unusual” cause the market is less brilliant. garments made from recycled in the fashion and luxury goods The companies are reacting very, materials inspired by parachute industry in that it has a men’s very quickly with the change in fabrics, integrating original seam- wear business that is equal to the internal market,” he said. ing details, as well as a bulked- its women’s wear business. “The Pitti exhibitor Brunello up jersey and shirt section. economy is challenged, as we all Cucinelli, for one, marveled at Raeburn’s collaboration with know, but I believe that estab- having recently opened a store in Moncler will launch this fall. lished brands with great heri- Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. Modern tailoring contin- tage will continue to do well.…I “Our colleagues returned fasci- ues to be a major trend. Lane am confident that we can main- nated by what they saw there, Crawford in its tailoring depart-

A style from Christopher Raeburn’s spring collection that will be shown at Pitti Uomo.

ment is focusing the spotlight are “much more confident in buy- on the segment to attract, new ing all-over print and pattern.” contemporary customers, “re- Liberty during the London flecting the trend of our younger men’s showcase will relaunch and more affluent customers its private label collection wanting to wear a suit, but in a awash with Liberty prints both modern way, not like their fa- old — from the brand’s ex- ther or grandfather,” said David tensive archive — as well as Wakely, divisional merchandise new. Liberty’s iconic Juno Art manager of men’s wear, citing Nouveau peacock print, for in- Lanvin, Aspesi, Rake, Mr. Start stance, is revisited using just and Burberry Prorsum as among the eye and the tip of the feath- the key brands. er to create an intricate pattern. Even cashmere king With shirts as its base, with a Cucinelli, a major player in the special fit for the Asian market, luxe-casual trend, is upping his the collection also includes ties, focus on the suit — in his style. pocket squares and scarves. “Thirty-year-olds wearing beau- Barrett said his spring tiful suits with sneakers and a lineup will feature more pat- polo — this is something fresh,” terns than usual, on a range of he said. “Men [now] have many engineered fabrics. “I’ve taken possibilities: When you reach 45 that across the board this time. to 50, you always want to look a Every product has these en- few years younger….We’re mov- gineered fabrics. It’s sort of ing to a new basic. For example, unique and very visual,” he in China, rich men don’t wear said. “It’s an evident request suits, it makes them look like from the client, the few fabrics government bureaucrats, so they we developed sold crazily.” want elegant-sporty.” Those unable to attend Pitti Caruso for spring will present Uomo will be treated to a 360-de- a range of light jackets, which gree interactive virtual tour of ceo Umberto Angeloni described the event courtesy of Thecorner. as a bridge between a shirt and com, the exclusive retail partner a jacket. “Fabrics, colors…the of Pitti Immagine. Visitors to the construction is always sartorial, site will be able to check out ex- but interpreted in a more infor- hibitor’s stands and view exclu- mal way,” he said. Key colors sive videos, special events and include sky blue, with micro- interviews with designers. The e- designs and fantasies on shirts. tailer said it will dedicate special Retailers said they hope to attention to Pitti’s guest design- see a carryover of color and ers, Peter Pilotto and Carven. print for spring. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Lane Crawford’s Wakely said FROM GORDON SORLINI, the store’s male customers have JOELLE DIDERICH AND MARC KARIMZADEH

PHOTO BY YANN GROSS YANN PHOTO BY responded well to the trend and

MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II Ones to Watch at Pitti Uomo Here are some new and noteworthy brands to check out at the upcoming show in Florence.

Baracuta jackets will be sold at prices Baracuta ranging from 230 euros, or $287 at cur- rent exchange rates, for dyed pieces to 350 euros, or $437, for the U.K.-made styles. “The relaunch of Baracuta will start from our main markets,” said Cane, listing Italy, Germany, Scandinavia and the U.K. The collection will be also commercialized in Japan through a local distributor. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

DOCKERS The quintessential American brand Dockers will return to Italy again this sea- son with a two-pronged approach — both, not surprisingly, centered around the khaki. Within the Pitti Uomo trade fair, the Levi Strauss & Co. division will showcase its spring-summer collection, while on the roof terrace of the headquarters of Pitti Uomo, a short distance away from the Fortezza da Basso, it will highlight the fall Dockers K-1 collection. This marks the first time Pitti has used that space to showcase Edun any apparel brand. The K-1 collection, which will be ex- the line’s direction, a color-blocked board- hibited there beginning June 20, offers a short with a jacquard tuxedo jacket. The tightly edited line of pants, shirts, graphic line’s palette evokes a California sunset, T-shirts and jackets that take their inspira- going from harbor blue and deep sea to tion from Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough pineapple and faded pink, with chambray Riders of the 1890s. It draws inspiration jacquard, cotton pique, organic cotton and from the details, textures and colors of U.S. washed linen among key fabrics. Blending military uniforms of that era and offers six the casual and formal categories, the mood pant styles with accompanying shirts and is always relaxed, spanning linen draw- graphic Ts, as well as two jacket styles. string pants, color-blocked sweaters, jac- Prices are significantly higher than the quard shorts with welt pockets and unstruc- core Dockers collection, ranging from $70 tured jackets. for the Ts to $420 for the field jacket. “It’s about taking some more iconic “This season the Dockers K-1 Collection men’s wear shapes and taking out the struc- offers a contemporary khaki style with a ture and weight to create a light easy piece masculine military twist,” said Angelo Ng, that still has somewhat of a tailored silhou- BARACUTA A younger and more commercial at- Dockers’ senior director of global merchan- ette,” said Hendry. Historical English outerwear brand titude dominates the Ivory line, with dising. “With its subtle early military detail- Edun this season partnered with the Baracuta, acquired in May by Italian com- quilted bombers, vests and blazers, and ing, the collection appeals to more than just Wildlife Works eco-factory in southeast pany WP Lavori in Corso, will bring a taste trenchcoats showing G9’s iconic neckline, your serious khaki connoisseur.” Kenya on some of the line’s men’s shirts of British extravaganza to Pitti on June 19 fraser tartan lining and ventilation sys- The Dockers spring collection cel- and T-shirts, as well as the Zaer shirt fac- with a party held at Florence’s Sferisterio tem. In addition, there are more sporty ebrates the importance of getting dressed tory in Eritrea, in sub-Sahara Africa. delle Cascine, a space built in 1893 for an- dyed jackets, featuring the Union Jack and the importance of style and grooming The company, which is 49 percent owned cient ball games. on the neck strap, which are available in as part of a man’s daily routine. It puts by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, The party will feature four international Eighties-inspired colors, such as yellow, the focus on its wide array of khakis, in- aims to produce 40 percent of its seasonal and popular DJs: Norman Jay, BBC Radio’s bright green and light blue. cluding the refined SF Khaki; the Alpha fashion collection in Africa by 2013. Giles Peterson, Eddie Piller and Dean Khaki, designed to serve as a transition — KATYA FOREMAN Rudland of Acid Jazz Records. The event will from jeans; the Ultimate Chino, and an ex- honor the heritage of the brand, which was tensive assortment of shorts. There’s also a HANCOCK BY TIMOTHY EVEREST founded in Manchester by John and Isaac Sailmaker Khaki with a nautical feel. The Hancock, the men’s clothing brand Miller in 1937 and whose iconic Harrington collection offers a range of finishes and launched in 2012 by Daniel Dunko, is set to G9 jacket has been worn by a bevy of celebri- details including waxed twills, slub twill ties, from Elvis Presley and Ryan O’Neal to canvas, patch pockets and knee panels. Steve McQueen and The Clash. In terms of color, the palette ranges from “They all witnessed Baracuta’s evolu- sharp blues, grays and browns to washed- tion, with the British underground cul- out reds, yellows and greens. Late season ture and clubbing scene as a backdrop,” deliveries will include brighter greens, said Baracuta creative director Andrea blues and reds. Cane of the DJs. Coordinating tops will also be offered. During the event, the company will unveil A Dockers spokesman said showing at its first collection produced by WP Lavori. Pitti allows the brand to see various sales Along with revisiting the fit of the agents across Europe as well as potential brand’s signature G9 and G4 bombers, new retailers in areas such as Germany and which are still manufactured in England the U.K., both seen as important growth and which will be available in eight tradi- markets for the company this year. tional hues, including ice, dark navy, faded — JEAN E. PALMIERI black and Cornwall sand, Baracuta is in- troducing two new lines, the Blue and the EDUN Ivory labels. Edun, the socially conscious clothing label The Blue, which Cane defined as the founded in 2005 by U2 rocker Bono and his “designer collection,” was conceived by wife, Ali Hewson, will be bringing a dose of Kenichi Kusano, former creative director California cool to Pitti Uomo as a first time of the Tokyo-based Beams Plus brand. exhibitor at the show. Men’s wear designer “He reinterpreted the historic prod- Ricky Hendry for the brand’s spring col- ucts through a British military inspira- lection took inspiration from David Scott’s tion,” Cane said, referring to the external photographs of Venice Beach in the Sixties pockets, inside layering and colors used and Seventies, which capture the tension by Kusano. The Blue range will include between the counterculture skate and surf reeditions of the G9 and G4 styles, a three- scene that grew up there alongside the tra- quarter field jacket and a Forties-inspired ditional formal social codes. The label’s trench in a range of fabrics, from English collection playfully explores “the juxtapo- military herringbone cotton, cotton poplin, sition and tension between those two ele- military tartan and coated cotton. Dockers ments,” he said, pairing, as an example of Men’s Week SECTION II WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 MW11

unveil Hancock by Timothy Everest, an exclu- sive outerwear capsule collection designed Ben Sherman by the British bespoke tailor. “I have known Timothy for 20 years, in which time he has developed his own label into a globally recognized name, with strong industry credentials and a loyal client follow- ing,” said Dunko, referring to Everest’s signa- ture brand, which revisits sartorial tradition with a quirky touch. “As a coat-maker myself, I appreciate the knowledge, skill and craft that goes into a handmade garment and so finally, in 2012, we put our hands together to create a capsule collection of tailored outerwear,” said Dunko. The offering includes two styles in three different color combinations. A single- breasted flannel blazer shows a soft con- struction with no shoulder padding, stitched elbow patches and horn buttons. Everest also designed a flannel deconstructed sin- gle-breasted town coat with a notched lapel and three lines of stitching on cuff and hem. Both the blazer and the coat are available in charcoal, navy and gray with respective olive green, gray and navy bindings and un- dercollars. They also feature the lining in two patterns showing Hancock’s logo or a leaf-inspired motif. — A.T.

BRUNO MAGLI Last December, Bruno Magli, in a move to re- shoes, which are realized in washed and dis- position the brand and give a new appeal to tressed calf in a pastel color palette of green, Neon orange and yellow its product range, tapped Siberian designer pink and blue shades, inspired by the Miami “techno knit” sweater, Max Kibardin, who introduced the Bologna- Art Deco district. A military-chic theme also cotton shirt with based company’s first women’s collection dur- runs through the collection, appearing on contrast seersucker ing Milan Fashion Week in February. Now the combat boots in summery, bold hues of sage collar with flecked PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA FRANCK PHOTO BY Italian brand is relaunching its men’s acces- green and saffron, or on styles where calf is cotton and silk pant and sories line at Pitti Immagine Uomo. mixed with canvas for a sporty, yet sophisti- a quilted nylon jacket. cated effect. In addition, the designer used the luxury Goodyear welting process not only for precious skins, such as crocodile, but also for casual and sporty materials, including dis- tressed polished calf. “I think that real luxury is to wear special, exclusive things everyday,” he said. The collection will be sold at prices rang- ing from 295 euros, or $369 at current ex- change rates, to 1,500 euros, or $1,875. During Pitti Uomo, Bruno Magli will present an accessories capsule line, which Kibardin described as “shock-chic,” in col- Bruno Magli laboration with American artist Brian Kenny. The capsule, which will be launched dur- “Bruno Magli is perceived as a classic ing an event at Florence’s Westin Excelsior brand and my goal is to keep its traditional Hotel on June 20, will include men’s bags and identity, making the product younger and shoes featuring fluorescent prints visible only fresher at the same time,” said Kibardin, who in the dark. “We wanted to create something will also unveil the first men’s ready-to-wear that could surprise customers with quality collection for the brand during the upcoming and research,” Kibardin said. — A.T. Milan Men’s Fashion Week. “I want to make its authentic Italian style more chic, adding BEN SHERMAN a touch of eccentricity for a dandylike look.” London-based men’s fashion firm Ben For spring 2013, Kibardin revisited classic Sherman is launching its new EC1 Trouser footwear styles, including the iconic college pants line at Pitti. Conceived by British tex- tile expert Douglas Cordeaux, the collec- tion, named after the London postcode for Sherman’s design studio, consists of a range of tailoring-inspired trousers featuring five Hancock by Timothy Everest different fits, spanning from slim to more re- laxed shapes. The trousers are offered in a THE CARVEN MAN TAKES wide range of fabrics, including cotton pop- lin, twill and the exclusive Spinker Drill, a re- sistant yet lightweight cotton created for the CENTER STAGE AT PITTI UOMO British Army in the Forties. The color palette PARIS — As one of the world’s most who you are not afraid to talk to,” ranges from classic hues, such as bronze, important men’s wear meccas, the said the designer. For this season’s navy and blue, to more summery tones of Pitti Uomo trade show, which opens wardrobe, Henry celebrated three washed lagoon blue and langoustino coral. on Tuesday in Florence, will also of his favorite Carven codes — fresh- In addition to the EC1 Trouser line, whose provide the chance to get to know the ness, spontaneity and elegance. “My label combines the signature triangle of the Carven man a little better. As this sea- story takes place between the Paris tailor’s chalk with the EC1 postcode, Ben son’s guest designer, the Paris-based business district, La Défense, and Sherman will also show its Plectrum by Ben house will present its spring men’s Cap Ferret [a chic French coastal Sherman range in Florence. Inspired by collection on June 21 at a yet-to-be- town in southwest France], where the American jazz scene of the Sixties, the disclosed location in the historic city. formal urban outfits meet casual spring 2013 collection is dominated by prints, Guillaume Henry, Carven’s cre- chic,” said Henry, setting the scene. including an ikat-inspired camouflage pat- ative director, who since June 2011 Playing with contrasts, he mixed tern appearing on four-pocket overskirts, Ts, has been heading up the collection poor and rich fabrics, technical and jackets and polo shirts. In order to create a (which is steadily playing catch-up natural textiles, casual and tailored relaxed, casual look, tailored jackets are with its trendy sister, the house’s pieces. Characteristically quirky balanced with slightly loose pants and de- women’s ready-to-wear line, also de- couplings from the collection in- constructed blazers are worn with shapeless signed by Henry), already has his own clude a Madras print shirt with a shorts. Adding a colorful touch to the collec- ideas about the guy’s personality. suit, and a sweatshirt with uniform- tion, shirts show Art Deco-inspired geometric “He’s charming. The Carven man inspired pants or gardening overalls patterns and floral motifs combined with pin- definitely has this effortless elegance under a twisted classic jacket. stripes and checks, while outerwear includes and this feeling of the guy next door — K.F. washed herringbone parkas and bombers, along with suede jackets. — A.T. MW12 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II Stone Island’s 30-Year Journey Italian outerwear brand eyes future as it celebrates three decades of innovation.

byALESSANDRA TURRA tions, including its iconic badge departments. For sure, the most activities boosted the per- featuring the compass rose and extensive area is the one dedi- Carlo Rivetti formance of the brand over RAVARINO, Italy — With his stitched on the jackets’ sleeves. cated to dyeing. the last few years. deep blue eyes and conta- The entrepreneur noted that “This place is like a “In the past, we were a gious smile, Carlo Rivetti walks research and innovation have Renaissance painter’s studio,” bit afraid to invest in com- through the different depart- always been at the foundation of said Rivetti, referring to the munication, but we un- ments of Sportswear Co.’s head- the brand. “We were faithful to room where the colors are cre- derstood the importance quarters with the nimble and our DNA and we are proud we ated and re-produced. of telling people the story relaxed pace of an understated continue to be so loyal to it,” he Every season, Stone Island, of the brand,” he said. “I prince reigning over a playful said. “I think that the secret of which uses a dyeing method that realized that if I managed and peaceful realm. longevity is not to pursue the mar- allows it to obtain 11 different to talk to people, I would That kingdom, located here, ket, but to forge your own path.” colors with one washing process, have room to grow. The in the northern Italian country- Rivetti, who ranks creativity includes about 200 hues in its problem was not to talk to side on the border between the as a top priority, pointed to the collection. “Here we have all the my generation, but to my Bologna and Modena provinces, is importance of creating solid rela- colors of the world,” Rivetti said. children’s generation.” not populated by talking animals tionships with customers as a key “Making our own tones and dye- In order to become more or animated characters as in a to success. ing our pieces, we are not bound appealing to young custom- to the color wheel of our fabric ers, Stone Island developed suppliers.” a Facebook page, where the In Ravarino, Sportswear Co. brand has about 90,000 fol- Dyes being created at the also produced the prototypes for lowers, a Twitter account company headquarters. CP Co., the outwear brand Rivetti and a Web site regularly sold to Enzo Fusco in 2010. updated with short movies “I saw what was going to and news. happen in advance [the finan- The close relationship cial crisis that has hit interna- San Francisco’s Unionmade. with his children — Silvio, tional markets] and I thought “Now I have a good reason to 28; Matteo, 26, and Camilla — it was not fair to take away go to New York more frequent- and the influence of his stu- resources from Stone Island ly,” said Rivetti, referring to his dents — Rivetti teaches fashion to give them to CP Co. As a 20-year-old daughter Camilla’s marketing to third-year stu- wise captain, I ordered to haul move to the city. “She has just dents at the Politecnico under- down the sails and to check the been admitted to Parsons, where graduate school in Milan — un- hatches were battened down,” she will study fashion marketing.” doubtedly pushed him toward Rivetti said. “People here were Even if outerwear and knit- this sort of digitalization. all scared and, for the first time, wear remain the company’s core “I enjoy teaching,” he said. I felt the loneliness of being on business, Stone Island is working “Teaching is like making wine. my own making such a big deci- to improve all product categories Every year is different, it can sion,” he admitted. with dedicated design teams. be better or worse, but always But Rivetti’s choice paid off, To appeal to a younger au- unique.” and the first year without CP dience, Rivetti started selling In the last few seasons, Co., Sportswear Co.’s revenues smaller pieces, such as polo Rivetti also revised the brand’s increased to 51 million euros, shirts, with lower opening prices. advertising strategy. Stone Island or $66.81 million at average ex- The company has a children’s abandoned its bare still life im- change, from 49 million euros, or wear line, which was launched ages for a new formula, consist- $64.19 million, in 2010. in 2002, and unveiled its first col- ing of bold and clean shots of Although 70 percent of Stone lection of sunglasses last March. models, who look “frozen.” Island’s collections are made in The carbon fiber frames, the “I was used to making adver- Italy — a percentage that Rivetti company’s first license, are man- tising campaigns with still life believes is destined to shrink – ufactured by EG Brands. images because I didn’t like the the company delocalized the pro- “I listen to the market but I idea that a face could identify duction of specific items. interpret it and I give answers the brand,” he explained. “But “I go to find technology and reflecting Stone Island’s identi- now we have found a sort of an innovation where they exist and ty,” said Rivetti, who underlined evolution of the still life and it’s I feel very easy about it,” Rivetti how specific communication working very well.”

PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY said. “We search the world with open eyes and with imagination.” Stone Island produces its Walt Disney movie, but by 100 em- “There is an Italian drummer dyed down jackets in Indonesia LOOKING BACK ployees who, under the guidance that, before leaving for a tour, al- and its cotton thermo-welded ON THE OCCASION of its 30th anniversary, Stone Island tidied of president and creative director ways checks out where the closest down jackets in China, while the up its archive of 20,000 pieces. And on June 19, the brand will Rivetti, are knee-deep in a fashion Stone Island store is to do some garments with metallic coating unveil “Stone Island 30,” an exhibition that will remain open project called Stone Island. shopping. He also used to send us are made in Japan. until July 7 at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda, which will high- Founded by Massimo Osti in postcards from his tour, even if we “What makes me happy is light both the stylistic and technical evolution of the label since 1982, the brand, known for its in- didn’t know each other,” he said. that we are growing in all the its founding in 1982. novative men’s jackets, is celebrat- Rivetti also revealed that he is markets with all our categories,” Curated by Britons Simon Foxton and Nicholas Griffiths, found- ing its 30th anniversary this year. treated as “a rock star” when he Rivetti said. ers of the creative agency &Son, the retrospective, organized in “Stone Island grew out of a travels to England. “They ask me Stone Island, which reg- eight different themes, will include more than 200 jackets and a mistake,” said Rivetti, who joined to take children in my arms and istered more than 18 percent big focus will be put on the processes and methods used to manu- the label in 1983 when he ac- to sign autographs,” said Rivetti, growth in orders for its fall col- facture them. Among the items that will be showcased will be three quired 50 percent of the company. with his usual irony. lection, is present in 30 countries special 30th anniversary pieces including a replica of the tela Ten years later, he and his sister, He is very focused on post- and operates 11 flagships across stella anorak on which the brand was founded; a knitwear piece Cristina, bought the remaining 50 sale customer service. “We once Europe, Korea and China. The created by using a reflective yarn, and the 30/30, a reversible jacket percent and became owners. got an e-mail from a Neapolitan company’s directly operated that features cotton-based satin coated with a polyurethene film on “At the factory, we found a lawyer complaining about one stores posted a 35 percent in- one side and a heat sensitive and reflective fabric knitted inside. fabric that was not used in fash- of our sweaters he had just crease in the first six months of During the opening party, guests will also be able to preview ion, called tela stella [star fabric], bought that had an unsavory 2012 compared to the same pe- “Stone Island, Archivio ’982-’012,” a photographic book that col- and we tried to do a jacket stress- smell. I immediately picked up riod last year. lected more than 307 Stone Island pieces worn by 30 cosmopol- ing and washing it,” he added, the phone to call him asking to In the U.S., “a challenging itan young men. The exhibition will include about 15 oversize seated at the desk in his informal return the piece and explaining market to approach because it versions of select images from the book, which includes an intro- office, where one wall is domi- that the problem had occurred requires huge investments and duction written by president and creative director Carlo Rivetti nated by a big poster of Italian with our own washing. I’m sure where creating an efficient dis- and a sociological essay by Francesco Morace, who analyzed the ski resort Courmayeur, where that’s a customer I will never tribution is not easy,” the brand’s brand in the context of the international fashion scene of the last Rivetti is a honorary citizen. lose,” he said. collections are available in 43 30 years. The book will be available starting in September in se- Inspired by the tela stella, an un- At the company’s headquar- multibrand stores, including lected bookstores and museums, as well as the company’s flag- conventional fabric used to cover ters, Stone Island produces Barneys New York and Atrium ships and other specialty stores worldwide. trucks, the company introduced prototypes through an elabo- in New York, Ron Herman in Los — A.T. military references in the collec- rate process involving several Angeles, Mario’s in Portland and NOTE CHANGEINDAYS: WEDNESDAY 19 -FRIDAY 21SEPT. 2012/AUTUMNWINTER13-14 The World’s Premier Fabric Show Parc d’ExpositionsParis-Nord Villepinte France [email protected] www.premierevision.com T. 1[646]351-1942

™ 6SP]PLY9VSSLY MW14 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II

Matt Fashionable Fathers Fete Bomer GAY TALESE was surely the most dapper diner in a chief Adam Rapoport. at Park & roomful of clotheshorses at Greenwich Village’s Perla “My father was notoriously frugal when it came Bond. restaurant on Tuesday. The 80-year-old writer, in a to clothes,” remembered Rapoport, who claimed no faultless three-piece suit and elegant fedora, was family lineage in his own passion for fashion. “My mom among 11 dashing dads being toasted by e-tailer Park & once bought him a Hickey-Freeman suit — he was a Bond, which had featured them in a Father’s Day story journalist on Capitol Hill — and he had it for two on the shopping site. days and couldn’t bring himself to wear it, so he “Way back in the Fifties, when I was a young returned it. He didn’t feel comfortable wearing a EYE reporter at The New York Times and Tom Wolfe was a suit that cost more than $200.” young reporter at the Herald-Tribune, we were both Fahlgren, for his part, is passing on some of aware that we were dressing up for a story, which we his sartorial flair to his two-year-old daughter, Elsa. “I felt was a celebratory event,” said Talese proudly of like to dress her up like a tomboy,” he admitted. The his fondness for custom-made suits, pointing out the tactic seems to be working, as the budding style maven perfectly lined-up pinstripes on his jacket. “We had has already appeared as a model on Huggies packaging an exalted sense of who we were and what we did. We and in Fisher-Price ads. “She’s got a little fund going thought journalism was a great calling.” for college.” Also on Park & Bond’s honor roll of posh parents Tyler Thoreson, vice president of editorial, creative were actors Matt Bomer and Kyle MacLachlan; designers and customer experience for Gilt Man and Park & Robert Geller, Todd Snyder and Mark McNairy; tie-maker Bond — and a father of three himself — called the Brett Fahlgren; banker Euan Rellie; photographer Ben celebratory dinner “a great excuse for a night out, Watts; attorney Douglas Hand, and Bon Appétit editor in which is a rare thing if you’re a dad.” — DAVID LIPKE

Kyle MacLachlan PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Hot Under the Collar MATT BOMER isn’t a conventional dad. He’s the star of the hit show “White Collar” on USA, for one thing, and he’s co-starring in a movie about male strippers, called “Magic Mike,” out June 29, for another. He’s also gay, having come out during an awards speech in February, thanking his longtime partner Simon Halls, who is co- parent to their three boys: seven year-old Kit and four-year-old twins Walker and Henry. “It’s fantastic and kinetic and the greatest thing that ever happened to me,” said Bomer, 34, of fatherhood. “Every day is an exciting adventure that starts at 6:30 until they go to bed at 8 or 9. They were supposed to see me in New York this week, but one of our twins broke his arm and I had to fly home to Los Angeles. There’s never a dull moment.” Keith George, general manager of Gilt Bomer is in the midst of 70-hour work weeks Man and Park & Bond, with Kevin Ryan, at Silvercup Studios in Queens filming the chief executive officer of Gilt Groupe. Gay Talese and Euan Rellie fourth season of “White Collar,” which begins airing July 10. Halls, a prominent Hollywood publicist who counts Tom Ford and Ryan Man of Murphy as clients, holds down the fort in Los Angeles. While they share an industry, Halls THE WEEK NEIL PATRICK HARRIS: A is “above his pay grade,” Bomer noted of any professional advice the two give each other. Playing a con man who’s switched gears  to assist the FBI, Bomer has earned plenty of Subtle volume and dry finish plays well with notice for his sleekly tailored looks on “White The comedic actor his large forehead and defined facial structure. Collar.” Costume designer Stephanie Maslansky has outfitted the actor in Paul Smith, John not only excelled in Varvatos, Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford on the The perfect balance between soft, show and this season splurged on some custom- his duties as the yet firm, construction. Exudes sharpness made suits by New York’s Michael Andrews. “It’s in a very approachable manner. pretty fortunate they let us spend a little bit,” said Bomer, who gives plenty of input into his host of Sunday’s on-screen outfits, going so far as creating books Although it appears too wide, the width of tear sheets from magazines for Maslansky. Tony Awards, works with the pointed collar. One season, he even crafted a collage of potential looks for his character, Neal Caffrey. Earlier this month, Bomer presented the he also brought Menswear Designer of the Year award at the CFDA Awards, for which he donned Calvin sleek fashion to the Klein. “For a business that is so cutthroat and Men across America, competitive, they really know how to celebrate masses. Whether take note: This is how to do it. each other,” he observed of the ceremony. Off-duty, the actor likes supporting emerging designers like Todd Snyder, Billy Reid and playing it straight The impeccably fitted Calvin Klein Michael Bastian — and was even wearing a Patrik Collection suit elongates his 6-foot, Ervell shirt during this interview. Still, he noted, in a black tux 1-inch model-like body. “I never feel more confident and comfortable than when I’m wearing a Tom Ford suit.” There are no Tom Ford suits in the upcoming or camping it up in No break, narrow fit but not too tight. “Magic Mike,” in which Bomer spends much of He executes the quintessential way his time removing articles of clothing — as do co- a song-and-dance to wear a modern tuxedo today. stars Channing Tatum, Matthew McConaughey, Alex Pettyfer and Joe Manganiello. routine, his effortless The lace-up shoes are an OK choice. “It’s intimidating taking off your clothes for But he’s dapper enough to have a group of strangers. But it was an ensemble- style stayed intact. pulled off patent leather. building experience and we were like a band of thieves that instantly bonded,” said Bomer. — D.L. PHOTO BY ANDREW H. WALKER/WIREIMAGE FOR TONY AWARDS PRODUCTIONS FOR TONY AWARDS ANDREW H. WALKER/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY :::3,77,00$*,1(&20 7)XRPR#SLWWLPPDJLQHFRPSKRWR3HSSH7RUWRUDVW\OLQJ9DOHQWLQD,ODUGLGHVLJQ/DERUDWRULXP00;,, MW16 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2012 Men’s Week SECTION II

are slated to break in August MEMO PAD magazines worldwide. George Santacroce Tapped as A dedicated Web site — GOING PLACES: Making good use louisvuittonexpress.com — is to of the extravagant train-station document the train’s journey from U.S. CEO for Moods of Norway set for its fall fashion show, Louis Paris from July 5. When it chugs Vuitton made a locomotive the into the show site on Shanghai’s GEORGE SANTACROCE, an industry veteran George Santacroce backdrop for its next campaign — famous Bund at 9 p.m. on the 19th, whose prior stints include Bergdorf Goodman and and is dispatching it to Shanghai models are to disembark in the Aquascutum of London, has been named U.S. chief ex- for a gala taking place next fall collection and circle the train, ecutive officer of Moods of Norway International Inc. month. “We wanted to continue just as they did in Paris. The event The position is new and Santacroce is expected the journey we started with the coincides with an exhibition of to tap into his extensive retail and wholesale expe- fashion show,” said Vuitton’s travel articles and the opening of rience to guide the brand as it seeks to expand its artistic director Marc Jacobs, Vuitton’s first maison in China — presence in the U.S. market. adding the ads are meant to evoke a four-level unit at the Plaza 66 Santacroce, who served most recently as founder “the glamour of travel and the complex. — MILES SOCHA and ceo of Global Market Solutions, an international romance of going somewhere.” trade and development firm, will be based out of the Steven Meisel photographed WINNING A MIRROR: On Thursday brand’s headquarters in Los Angeles. 10 female models and four male afternoon, over a lunch of beef filet “We scouted for an experienced retail executive porters in the reconstructed and Georgetown cupcakes, the 2012 with a youthful mind-set,” said Nils A. Karstad Lyso, interior of the Louis Vuitton Mirror Awards were held to honor chairman and co-owner of Moods of Norway. “George Express in a New York studio. the best media writing of the year. brings fresh thinking and a solid 40 years of success- It’s the first time the brand The Newhouse School at Syracuse ful merchant experience from the fashion retail busi- has sought to evoke the exact University always recruits a TV ness. George has the creativity we need, in combina- ambiance of its Paris show. Ads personality to host and, this year, tion with a strong understanding of what it takes to win market share in this business.” Moods of Norway currently operates a freestand- ing store on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles, and is expecting to open a second store in New York MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY later this year. It is also available at specialty stores around the country. brand like it and the market needs newness.” Santacroce said he plans to grow the company’s Moods of Norway was founded by three retail presence, develop e-commerce and “expand Norwegian designers and has an irreverent take on our better fashion specialty store business. Our goal fashion. Its trademark is a golden tractor and its goal is to have three Moods stores by the end of 2013 is to “make our grandmas happy.” and over a five-year horizon, open 12 to 15 Moods of Santacroce has also worked as ceo of The Norway stores nationwide in major U.S. markets.” Collective, a division of the Aditya Birla Group, He said that he first discovered the brand during was president of retail for Tommy Bahama, group a visit to Los Angeles and was “intrigued. president of Amerex Group, president of flagship “What attracted me specifically is the unique spirit and specialty retail at Tommy Hilfiger, senior vice and authenticity of the brand, combined with its com- president of Bergdorf Goodman, president and ceo pelling product and price position. What’s not to love of Aquascutum, president of Burberry Shirts, a divi- about a brand rooted in Norwegian values that offers sion of Cluett Industries, and president of Yves Saint ‘Happy Clothes for Happy People?’ That spirit is ex- Laurent Men’s at Bidermann Industries. pressed through everything we do, there’s no other — JEAN E. PALMIERI An image from Louis Vuitton’s fall campaign, shot by Steven Meisel. ON-DEMAND VIDEO

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Anderson Cooper was the one delivering pithy said Chris Mitchell, vice around their campaigns already,” of fashion designers, who are aware of it one liners from the stage at The Plaza hotel. president and publisher of noted Mitchell. He predicted the and use it.” The winners: Ken Auletta, who won an GQ. “Advertisers can get as September issue would be up in ad Sepp’s customary designer football award for the second year in a row, this time ambitious as they want with pages from 2011. “In a year that’s jersey shoot is a good example. “We’ve for his profile of New York Times executive this and it’ll be fun to see all been solid for us, but not exactly been doing this from the start, but whereas editor Jill Abramson. Anna Holmes took the the different executions.” record-breaking, we’re seeing some we used to get T-shirts perhaps sporting prize for best commentary, for three pieces, The technology uses The GQ Live logo. nice momentum for September,” said a designer logo and saying World Cup, including a column on Donald Trump’s sexism the Aurasma platform, Mitchell. — DAVID LIPKE they’re all now applying their designer for The Washington Post. Rebecca Traister, who which uses image-recognition from a skills to football jerseys,” said Ebner. singled out her babysitter by name as the smartphone or iPad camera to launch CHAMPIONSHIP SEASON: As Sepp founder Like Lanvin’s Lady Football Club one who made it possible for her to continue the specified digital media attached to Markus Ebner noted, finding a niche double-layer chiffon tank for her or writing, won for best commentary, for three that image. The app negates the need for for an independent magazine is tricky, dark block-striped crew for him, Marni’s pieces including “Seeing ‘Bridesmaids’ a QR code — which can be unsightly on especially one published only every two graphics does a candy “M” top for is a social responsibility” and Joe Pompeo a polished fashion advertisement — and years in sync with the Euro or World the women’s team and multitextured won for best profile, in digital media, for provides a host of new features beyond Cup. But that hasn’t stopped the indie rendition for the men, No. 21 by “The road ahead for The Huffington Post: QR. Rather than just launching a specific publisher’s Sepp Football Fashion. Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s voluminous satin Nine months and a merger later, ‘Capital-J Web site page, Aurasma offers multiple Named after Sepp Herberger, the sweatshirt or Antonio Marras’ painterly Journalism’ is still a work in progress.” interactive options, such as clicking player who pulled off Germany’s first male version. Versace, Gucci, Emporio Peter Maass was awarded the inaugural through to Facebook or Pinterest, and World Cup victory in the Miracle of Bern Armani EA7, Giambattista Valli, Roberto John M. Higgins Award for best in-depth/ can meld the physical images from a in 1954, the magazine is now celebrating Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel and Paul Smith enterprise reporting, for “The Toppling,” magazine page with an animation or its 10th anniversary. The sixth issue, with were among the other designers whose which ran in The New Yorker but was video. “The page really looks like it’s a circulation of 25,000 and cover price of jersey styles were photographed by Horst partially funded by the nonprofit newsroom dissolving into the animation. It sort of 8 euros, or $10 at current exchange, hit Diekgerdes, the women’s looks all worn by at ProPublica. The piece reported on magically comes to life,” explained Lauren international newsstands and select fashion Russian model Anna Selezneva. how the American media put too much Offers, marketing director at Aurasma. stores just in time for the first UEFA Euro Indeed, reflecting the upcoming significance on the falling of Saddam The technology has already been used 2012 game in Warsaw on Friday. tournament’s Eastern European setting, Hussein’s statue, creating a false sense by British GQ and Dunhill in October. For those who think the soccer- Selezneva graces one of the magazine’s of victory. Adam Lashinsky won best single Both the cover of the magazine and style connection is a precarious match, dual covers (German national team star article print for his Fortune story, “How a Dunhill advertisement inside were Ebner said the last decade has shown and Real Madrid player Mesut Özil rules the Apple works: Inside the world’s biggest activated via the app, with viewers able to otherwise. Whereas few designers (save other). And lest we forget Yulia Tymoshenko’s startup” and best single article digital watch various videos, shop Dunhill looks Giorgio Armani, who early on dressed star plight in Euro co-host nation Ukraine, her went to Rhonda Roland Shearer and Malik and learn more about the campaign, via a players David Beckham and David James) hair is braided — as a sign of support — Ayub Sumbal at iMediaEthics, a nonpartisan tap on their screens. or Dirk Bikkembergs were into football- in the former prime minister’s signature journalism ethics Web site. — AMY WICKS Popular Science used Aurasma to plus-fashion 10 years ago, now it’s normal style. As for the second host nation, Sepp is bring a story on inventors to life via front-row business. positively enamoured with Poland, Maciek GQ GOES BEYOND QR: GQ is bringing videos in its current June issue and U2 “It’s gone from a niche segment to Kobielski’s “Dream of Warsaw” not only augmented reality to its September issue. incorporated the app into print ads for mass,” Ebner said. “Footballers look toasting the country’s nascent beauties Via a new app, dubbed GQ Live, every a documentary DVD earlier this spring. at the fashion industry and would love and future footballers, but also the city of advertisement and some editorial in the After aiming a smartphone at the ad, to get contracts, and vice versa. Zegna Warsaw, where the Euro kicks off. upcoming issue will feature print-to-mobile viewers could launch a trailer for the dresses football players for FIFA’s For a surprising top note, Karl content extensions, including videos, DVD or buy it directly from Amazon. Ballon D’Or, Armani not only made the Lagerfeld’s fifth collaboration with Sepp 3-D modeling, interactive experiences GQ is aiming to make its GQ Live app Beckham jacket but dresses Chelsea and saw the designer taking on athletic hair and click-throughs to social media and easy to navigate for advertisers, offering Domenico Dolce’s office just sent pictures obsessions over the years. The illustrative e-commerce sites. assistance from its internal design group of 60 footballers with which Dolce wants upshot: “Fashion has changed but long “We want to take a must-buy issue on potential executions. “More and more to launch his career as a photographer. hair is back,” he insists. and turn it into an even bigger event,” people are creating video and other assets Sport style is now part of the repertoire — MELISSA DRIER Run by people not formulas.

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