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Luxury Briefing 187 ISSUE 187 CONTENTS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH PATRICK CHALHOUB • GOLD ON 27 BAR OPENS IN DUBAI • NAVA + NAVA DESIGNS FOR RUBELLI • DYSON LAUNCHES FIRST HAIRDRYER • DOLCE & GABBANA COLLABORATES WITH SMEG • RAF SIMONS TO SHOW AT PITTI UOMO • ELIE SAAB LUXURY LAUNCHES BRIDAL • TWENTY PLUS: Q&A WITH LUCY CHOI BRIEFING YEARS OF YEARS luxury briefing 187 ISSUE 187 CONTENTS Features 4 Insight Feature PATRICK CHALHOUB, co-CEO of Chalhoub Group, discusses the findings of their new White Paper at an exclusive Industry LUXURY BRIEFING breakfast. reports 14 Luxury Focus 10 Fashion & Accessories JULIA ZALTZMAN takes a looks at the burgeoning world of 12 Travel & Aviation subscription-based male grooming. 13 Interiors & Design 18 Jewellery & Watches 23 20 Food & Drink Luxury Futures 22 Hospitality Over a six-part series RUTH MARSHALL-JOHNSON and 26 Beauty & Wellbeing SHIFRA COOK delve into how some of the smartest thinkers and inventors are shaking up different elements of our lives with new tech and digital innovations. 28 Regulars Limited Editions THERESA HAROLD meets Peter Bellerby, founder of Bellerby & Co. 1 Contents Globemakers, in his North London studio to talk globes, gores, and 2 Events Calendar Google Maps. 24 Luxury retail property news London, Europe & New York 33 Wealth Report Wealth-X 34 Brand Matters Georgia Fendley 35 Q&A Lucy Choi 1 Luxury Briefing EVENTS CALENDAR INTERNATIONAL PARIS AIR SHOW The largest and longest-running aerospace trade show in the world returns for its 52nd outing – 19-25 June 2016 Le Bourget exhibition centre, Paris THE LONDON LUXURY EXPO 2016 Showcase of global brands across every sector of the luxury industry – 30 June – 2 July 2016 ExCel Centre London/London City Airport Private Jet Centre THE SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW The largest recreational marine event in the southern hemisphere – 28 July – 1 August 2016 Sydney Exhibition Centre at Glebe Island and Cockle Bay Marina in Darling Harbour CITI WORLD LUXURY EXPO, SEOUL Leading brands exhibit to invitation-only HNWI audience – 2-4 September 2016 Grand Hyatt, Seoul HONG KONG WATCH AND CLOCK FAIR The 35th edition of the annual timepiece trade show – 6-10 September 2016 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre LUXURY HOSPITALITY CONFERENCE & EXPO Premier event for the luxury, hospitality and wellness travel communities – 25-27 September 2016 Washington D.C., Gaylord National Resort & Convention Center GLOBAL WELLNESS SUMMIT International gathering of global wellness industry leaders – 17-19 October 2016 KitzKongress, Kitzbühel, Tyrol THE LUXURY TRAVEL FAIR Condé Nast Traveller presents a collection of the finest and most unique holidays – 3-6 November 2016 Olympia, London VOICES Business of Fashion’s annual summit for fashion insiders – 1-3 December 2016 Soho Farmhouse, Oxfordshire 2 CONTRIBUTORS luxury briefing Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook are co-founders Keith Wilson of COIN Research, an Keith is one of the founding independent consultancy that directors of Wilson Mchardy, helps organisations anticipate a boutique agency providing Theresa Harold tomorrow’s consumer and investment, development Born in Hong Kong, luxury match the product, brand and and leasing advice to key clients lifestyle journalist Theresa Harold marketing to their needs. Shifra in the luxury market. Responsible has worked for numerous print develops unique proprietary for many headline projects in and online publications in Asia research tools to better profile and London, Keith has provided and Europe. During the course of understand luxury consumers and strategic advice for Grosvenor her career, she has interviewed Ruth identifies the relationship Estates, Dunhill, Chanel, celebrities, designers, CEOs — between cultural development and Richemont and Groupe Arnault and memorably, a prince. consumer behaviours. among others. Faith Hope Consolo Julia Zaltzman Georgia Fendley Revered worldwide as the Writer, editor, and project manager Georgia has spent a career ‘Queen of Retail,’ Faith Hope Julia Zaltzman specialises in immersed in luxury brands – as Consolo’s prognostications on luxury lifestyle feature writing, designer, art director, brand shopping and consumption and the production of bespoke strategist, branding agency owner, are heeded by world-class coffee-table books. The editor industry mentor and, of course, designers, mass retailers, start-up of FRASER, the magazine for savvy consumer. As Brand Director boutiques, property owners and Fraser Yachts brokerage house, of Mulberry (2008–2012), she municipalities around the world. and Natural Beauty News, she helped to steer the company She has her pulse on the retail writes for high-end consumer and through its greatest period of scene in New York City, and the customer magazines with an ultra financial and geographical growth world’s great shopping centres high net worth readership. and her perspective on the and high streets. industry, from inside and out, is therefore acutely perceptive. FMS Global Media | Editorial: Harriet Linder, Sophie Walker, Theresa Harold Subscription Manager: [email protected] 3 Luxury Briefing Issue 187 INSIGHT FEATURE Bridging The Gulf FOLLOWING THE LAUNCH OF CHALHOUB GROUP’S FOURTH ANNUAL WHITE PAPER, PATRICK CHALHOUB, JOINT CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TALKS TO LUXURY BRIEFING ABOUT THE MODERN FACE OF LUXURY IN THE GULF With over 60 years of experience we take a look at a subject, How do you see the Middle Now, in the Middle East (perhaps in the industry, Chalhoub Group which we feel, is of relevance. East luxury situation with the exception of Dubai) is the leading partner for luxury This year, we felt the Middle compared to Europe? 95% of our customers are local brands across the Middle East. Eastern market is entering into If I have to compare the Middle Eastern, local GCC, Its founder, Michel Chalhoub, a new phase of its development. Middle East to Europe in terms customers. Even in Dubai, where started the business licensing A phase which is, I would say, of luxury…Well, in Europe – we have a lot of visitors from all foreign brands in Damascus, the end of an era of abundance. especially in the past few years over the world, it has become Syria in 1955. Today, the Group We don’t think that what – we have focused on mainly much more of a local market. is based in Dubai and remains we’re seeing, at least from our servicing people visiting It is very interesting because a family business run by sons perspective, is something that Europe; a lot of Americans, it means we are really catering Anthony and Patrick Chalhoub. we would call a ‘crisis’ or a Arabs, Japanese, not to mention for our market and those By merging its knowledge of ‘downturn’. We think that we the Chinese. Middle Eastern customers. So the Middle Eastern market with are living in a phase that will I felt luxury was somehow it’s important we know how to expert insight into the luxury bring us to a new way of doing losing its own roots with the cater to them well. industry, Chalhoub Group’s business in the Middle East. local population. Recently, Another element is that in success can be seen in its growing We felt it was important to with the devaluation of the Europe, there has been a shift in workforce of 12,000 people across share with some of our partners euro compared to the dollar – selling luxury. It has transformed 14 countries. what we feel is the new situation, or the appreciation of the dollar into a story-telling experience and how as a group we could compared to the euro – Europe for the customers. I think in Can you tell us about the adapt to it. enjoyed a boost to the luxury the Middle East – especially back genesis of the White Paper? business, because it attracted a in its era of easy selling – a lot There were very few publications lot of people from all over the of companies weren’t looking talking about luxury in the world who could buy luxury at into this, but now it is becoming Middle East, and as the leading a more affordable price in Europe a necessity. group for luxury in the region, and also in London. we felt we had something important to say. Now, every year 4 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing 5 Luxury Briefing Issue 187 INSIGHT FEATURE How has the rise of digital Internet to compare prices. In the White Paper, you mention media affected the luxury In the last few years, we have seen three archetypes of the Gulf market in the Middle East? more of our customers connect consumer: the gazelle, the horse, For some time, the luxury to e-commerce in general. and the falcon. world thought it would never Nowadays, we cannot Most of our customers, be taken by the digital world. promote our brand and our we consider are in the ‘horse’ It was the wrong assumption. products if we don’t utilise digital. category. That means buying Today, digital has entered As for e-commerce, the luxury in order to show their everyone’s homes, and in Middle East has its own wealth and demonstrate their our pockets. It’s a way of life. specifications. A lot of people personality through products. Our Middle Eastern customers – do not yet trust payment terms, Very proud of being themselves. more so than other places – so on our websites 75% of our When we did the study, are extremely connected. sales are done ‘cash on delivery’, which was about five years ago For some of them, it’s the way not through credit cards. now, about 70% of consumers they connect to the outside Some people don’t want to give had this attitude. Today, it is world. They spend a lot of time their address, so there are also just over 50%. I have seen this Previous page: Patrick Chalhoub at on their digital devices.
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