EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH PATRICK CHALHOUB • GOLD ON 27 BAR OPENS IN DUBAI • NAVA + NAVA DESIGNS FOR RUBELLI • DYSON LAUNCHES FIRST HAIRDRYER • DOLCE & GABBANA COLLABORATES WITH SMEG • RAF SIMONS TO SHOW AT PITTI UOMO • ELIE SAAB
LUXURY LAUNCHES BRIDAL •
TWENTY PLUS: Q&A WITH LUCY CHOI BRIEFING YEARS OF YEARS
luxury briefing 187 ISSUE 187 CONTENTS
Features
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Insight Feature PATRICK CHALHOUB, co-CEO of Chalhoub Group, discusses the findings of their new White Paper at an exclusive Industry LUXURY BRIEFING breakfast.
reports 14
Luxury Focus 10 Fashion & Accessories JULIA ZALTZMAN takes a looks at the burgeoning world of 12 Travel & Aviation subscription-based male grooming. 13 Interiors & Design 18 Jewellery & Watches 23
20 Food & Drink Luxury Futures 22 Hospitality Over a six-part series RUTH MARSHALL-JOHNSON and 26 Beauty & Wellbeing SHIFRA COOK delve into how some of the smartest thinkers and inventors are shaking up different elements of our lives with new tech and digital innovations.
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Regulars Limited Editions THERESA HAROLD meets Peter Bellerby, founder of Bellerby & Co. 1 Contents Globemakers, in his North London studio to talk globes, gores, and 2 Events Calendar Google Maps. 24 Luxury retail property news London, Europe & New York 33 Wealth Report Wealth-X 34 Brand Matters Georgia Fendley 35 Q&A Lucy Choi
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EVENTS CALENDAR
INTERNATIONAL PARIS AIR SHOW The largest and longest-running aerospace trade show in the world returns for its 52nd outing – 19-25 June 2016 Le Bourget exhibition centre, Paris
THE LONDON LUXURY EXPO 2016 Showcase of global brands across every sector of the luxury industry – 30 June – 2 July 2016 ExCel Centre London/London City Airport Private Jet Centre
THE SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW The largest recreational marine event in the southern hemisphere – 28 July – 1 August 2016 Sydney Exhibition Centre at Glebe Island and Cockle Bay Marina in Darling Harbour
CITI WORLD LUXURY EXPO, SEOUL Leading brands exhibit to invitation-only HNWI audience – 2-4 September 2016 Grand Hyatt, Seoul
HONG KONG WATCH AND CLOCK FAIR The 35th edition of the annual timepiece trade show – 6-10 September 2016 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
LUXURY HOSPITALITY CONFERENCE & EXPO Premier event for the luxury, hospitality and wellness travel communities – 25-27 September 2016 Washington D.C., Gaylord National Resort & Convention Center
GLOBAL WELLNESS SUMMIT International gathering of global wellness industry leaders – 17-19 October 2016 KitzKongress, Kitzbühel, Tyrol
THE LUXURY TRAVEL FAIR Condé Nast Traveller presents a collection of the finest and most unique holidays – 3-6 November 2016 Olympia, London
VOICES Business of Fashion’s annual summit for fashion insiders – 1-3 December 2016 Soho Farmhouse, Oxfordshire
2 CONTRIBUTORS luxury briefing
Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook are co-founders Keith Wilson of COIN Research, an Keith is one of the founding independent consultancy that directors of Wilson Mchardy, helps organisations anticipate a boutique agency providing Theresa Harold tomorrow’s consumer and investment, development Born in Hong Kong, luxury match the product, brand and and leasing advice to key clients lifestyle journalist Theresa Harold marketing to their needs. Shifra in the luxury market. Responsible has worked for numerous print develops unique proprietary for many headline projects in and online publications in Asia research tools to better profile and London, Keith has provided and Europe. During the course of understand luxury consumers and strategic advice for Grosvenor her career, she has interviewed Ruth identifies the relationship Estates, Dunhill, Chanel, celebrities, designers, CEOs — between cultural development and Richemont and Groupe Arnault and memorably, a prince. consumer behaviours. among others.
Faith Hope Consolo Julia Zaltzman Georgia Fendley Revered worldwide as the Writer, editor, and project manager Georgia has spent a career ‘Queen of Retail,’ Faith Hope Julia Zaltzman specialises in immersed in luxury brands – as Consolo’s prognostications on luxury lifestyle feature writing, designer, art director, brand shopping and consumption and the production of bespoke strategist, branding agency owner, are heeded by world-class coffee-table books. The editor industry mentor and, of course, designers, mass retailers, start-up of FRASER, the magazine for savvy consumer. As Brand Director boutiques, property owners and Fraser Yachts brokerage house, of Mulberry (2008–2012), she municipalities around the world. and Natural Beauty News, she helped to steer the company She has her pulse on the retail writes for high-end consumer and through its greatest period of scene in New York City, and the customer magazines with an ultra financial and geographical growth world’s great shopping centres high net worth readership. and her perspective on the and high streets. industry, from inside and out, is therefore acutely perceptive.
FMS Global Media | Editorial: Harriet Linder, Sophie Walker, Theresa Harold Subscription Manager: [email protected]
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INSIGHT FEATURE
Bridging The Gulf
FOLLOWING THE LAUNCH OF CHALHOUB GROUP’S FOURTH ANNUAL WHITE PAPER, PATRICK CHALHOUB, JOINT CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TALKS TO LUXURY BRIEFING ABOUT THE MODERN FACE OF LUXURY IN THE GULF
With over 60 years of experience we take a look at a subject, How do you see the Middle Now, in the Middle East (perhaps in the industry, Chalhoub Group which we feel, is of relevance. East luxury situation with the exception of Dubai) is the leading partner for luxury This year, we felt the Middle compared to Europe? 95% of our customers are local brands across the Middle East. Eastern market is entering into If I have to compare the Middle Eastern, local GCC, Its founder, Michel Chalhoub, a new phase of its development. Middle East to Europe in terms customers. Even in Dubai, where started the business licensing A phase which is, I would say, of luxury…Well, in Europe – we have a lot of visitors from all foreign brands in Damascus, the end of an era of abundance. especially in the past few years over the world, it has become Syria in 1955. Today, the Group We don’t think that what – we have focused on mainly much more of a local market. is based in Dubai and remains we’re seeing, at least from our servicing people visiting It is very interesting because a family business run by sons perspective, is something that Europe; a lot of Americans, it means we are really catering Anthony and Patrick Chalhoub. we would call a ‘crisis’ or a Arabs, Japanese, not to mention for our market and those By merging its knowledge of ‘downturn’. We think that we the Chinese. Middle Eastern customers. So the Middle Eastern market with are living in a phase that will I felt luxury was somehow it’s important we know how to expert insight into the luxury bring us to a new way of doing losing its own roots with the cater to them well. industry, Chalhoub Group’s business in the Middle East. local population. Recently, Another element is that in success can be seen in its growing We felt it was important to with the devaluation of the Europe, there has been a shift in workforce of 12,000 people across share with some of our partners euro compared to the dollar – selling luxury. It has transformed 14 countries. what we feel is the new situation, or the appreciation of the dollar into a story-telling experience and how as a group we could compared to the euro – Europe for the customers. I think in Can you tell us about the adapt to it. enjoyed a boost to the luxury the Middle East – especially back genesis of the White Paper? business, because it attracted a in its era of easy selling – a lot There were very few publications lot of people from all over the of companies weren’t looking talking about luxury in the world who could buy luxury at into this, but now it is becoming Middle East, and as the leading a more affordable price in Europe a necessity. group for luxury in the region, and also in London. we felt we had something important to say. Now, every year
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INSIGHT FEATURE
How has the rise of digital Internet to compare prices. In the White Paper, you mention media affected the luxury In the last few years, we have seen three archetypes of the Gulf market in the Middle East? more of our customers connect consumer: the gazelle, the horse, For some time, the luxury to e-commerce in general. and the falcon. world thought it would never Nowadays, we cannot Most of our customers, be taken by the digital world. promote our brand and our we consider are in the ‘horse’ It was the wrong assumption. products if we don’t utilise digital. category. That means buying Today, digital has entered As for e-commerce, the luxury in order to show their everyone’s homes, and in Middle East has its own wealth and demonstrate their our pockets. It’s a way of life. specifications. A lot of people personality through products. Our Middle Eastern customers – do not yet trust payment terms, Very proud of being themselves. more so than other places – so on our websites 75% of our When we did the study, are extremely connected. sales are done ‘cash on delivery’, which was about five years ago For some of them, it’s the way not through credit cards. now, about 70% of consumers they connect to the outside Some people don’t want to give had this attitude. Today, it is world. They spend a lot of time their address, so there are also just over 50%. I have seen this Previous page: Patrick Chalhoub at on their digital devices. a lot of ‘cash and collect’ orders. transformation, probably because Grovesnor House Suites Initially for luxury, they This probably means a higher our customers became much This page (Above and below): were more using it to look at rate of return, because people are more sure of themselves, much Level Shoes by Chalhoub Group; Katakeet Store what’s happening elsewhere in not committed. more educated, and connected Opposite page, the world, surfing site to site. having travelled. Fiona Sanderson, founder Then, social media became the The gazelle attitude, which of The Luxury Channel, talks with Patrick Chalhoub phenomenon it is now. Recently, is more about taking pleasure in customers have been using the self-expression and social media,
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went from about 20% to 40% of Let’s talk about you now. In the past, there has been a total our customers. The third one, Was it always your intention which we are seeing more and to join your father’s business? predominance of big luxury brands. more of but is still very minimal, Not really. When I was at school This was because the customers is this falcon attitude. This is a and college, I had different themselves needed to be reassured customer who is more interested dreams. I was very good at maths, in experiences and the personal so I wanted to do something relationships. This was at nearly with that. I wanted to understand 0% five years ago, but today is how the brain could function. about 5%. You know, very logical. It’s true This evolution of attitudes that when you are young, you goes very much hand-in-hand have a lot of dreams. But I lived in with the emancipation of a family where business was part women, which we have seen of everyday life. I used to go into in places like Saudi Arabia. my mother and father’s office Previously, women weren’t when I was 12, 13 14 years old. allowed to work but today more women are starting to work. Can you tell us more about how you began? What is the mix of smaller When I started my career, I didn’t brands and larger brands in start within the family business. the Middle East? I went to the US in order to try In the past, there has been a total to understand a more aggressive predominance of big luxury marketing than what we used to brands. This was because the have for luxury products. customers themselves needed to It taught me to always try be reassured by the well-known to understand the customer brands. Customers would go into and put them first. Whereas, monobrand stores and so it was at the time, the luxury world tougher for the smaller brands to was focused on expressing their penetrate the market. brand and letting customers But the shift in customer come to them. So the first thing behavior to someone much more it brought to me was ‘let us go to sure of himself, now they want the customer’, and then always to browse, they want elements of go one step further. differentiation. It has opened the When I joined the family doors for a lot of other brands. business we had about 100 team members. When I became the CEO about 15 years ago, we had 1,000 people. Today, we are 12,000 people. So we have grown quite a lot. It has been quite a transformation of the group organisation. At that time, I would say our role was mainly to be the ambassador for those luxury
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INSIGHT FEATURE
brands. Gradually, we moved at the time. He really fell in But he really insisted. He said from this function of being an love with luxury items, and he it was something important. ambassador because I felt that we decided that he would open his Then he probably met the needed to be more engaged. We AS FOR DUBAI, IT’S A own store. He opened a store secretary etc. After being so changed from being ambassadors VERY WELL CONNECTED for Christofle, which was a persistent, he finally met the to becoming partners. PLACE. IT’S A PLACE silverware brand. He opened a President. And it was all just to Another change is that we WHERE WE HAVE small store just next to the watch promote this silverware product! have moved very much into PEOPLE COMING FROM shop where he was working. My father had heard that they retail. We have transformed our He got the support of my were changing the silverware A WIDE VARIETY OF business from predominantly grandfather to finance part at the palace. So in the end his distribution to retail. Again, BACKGROUNDS, WHO of it. Then he opened this tiny persistence won and he received it comes back to putting the COME TO DUBAI TO store for Christofle, which was an order for his products. customer first. MINGLE AND DISCUSS quite unusual at the time – to After that, my father felt have a freestanding store for only it was not enough to go there. Why did your parents start one brand. He needed a bigger market. the business? When it opened he learnt He started going to those Arab It’s a long story. It was about two things. One, he cannot only countries where there was more 60 years ago. I would say, at wait for the customers, so he had that time, they were attracted to go and bring the business. by beautiful things. My father He actually went to the president was studying law and he started of Syria at the time, and he asked working part-time in a watch to meet him. Obviously, no one store. He was living in Damascus wanted to give him an audience!
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distribution. Then he started to want it, but even then it’s not How many languages do What do you enjoy most about selling a few perfumes alongside enough, they have to deserve you speak? your job? the silverware – but more it. Having said that, because we I speak three languages fluently: People. Really. Connecting with business-to-business than retail. are very much attached to our English, French, and Arabic. people. This was how it started. family values and to the family I do understand a few words By moving from one category sustainability of the business, in Spanish, for two reasons. What has been the proudest to several categories, to moving I have tried to train them One, we deal with some Spanish moment of your career? territories. And this took about from a young age to be good partners. Two, I have a daughter- For me, in my career, two things ten years. It was very difficult stakeholders within the group. in-law who is Chilean. If they have definitely forged me. and very complicated to start the For me, being part of the have grandchildren and they The times of difficulties, so business, but he caught the wave group means that they have to speak Spanish, then I will have to when there was the Iraq invasion of luxury coming to the region. understand part of their role become more fluent! or when we had a crises etc., is to make sure that we have For me, there is the language so this prompted us to make You’re very much a family family values, which reflect barrier – and it’s important to decisions. And also times of business today – your co-CEO the group values, which is break that – but there is also opportunities. Sometimes we is your brother. How do you reflected in everything which the cultural barrier. It’s very speak a lot about failures, or make that work? we do. They are the guardians important that we understand problems, and how we learn from For some time, we split our work of this. They are perhaps not what the culture is about. So them. But we can also reflect on between territories. But then the guardians of finance, or in the Middle East, understand successes. When you sign a big we felt that we could not build operation, but they are the what Middle Eastern culture is contract, take the time to say the group with this perspective, guardians of the family values. about, and in France, the French ‘what brought me to this?’. so we decided to change. Now In the meantime, they are culture, and so on. Especially we split our roles by function quite busy with their college when we deal with luxury, rather than by territories – so my studies. One of my sons has because part of it is about the Luxury Briefing subscribers can read brother takes care of the legal, been quite the entrepreneur; heritage and the society itself. the complete White Paper, enclosed I.T., and I deal more with the he launched Sport360.com. within the current issue commercial part of it. What do you enjoy most about We are very different living in Dubai? characters. We have to have Anywhere in the world, you a very strong relationship, could be happy; and anywhere one of trust, respect, and in the world, you could be communication – which goes disappointed. It depends on how back to our core values. you look at things. Wherever it is, I always train myself and my You have two sons. Do you family to get the best out of what want them to follow in we have. your footsteps? As for Dubai, it’s a very The reality is I’m not sure if well connected place. It’s a I want them to or not. What I place where we have people want is for them to be happy, coming from a wide variety of which is the most important backgrounds, who come to thing. I have always told them, Dubai to mingle and discuss. if one day they want to join the This openness is absolutely company, they must want it and great. Another thing I love they must deserve it. It’s for them about Dubai is its vibrancy. It’s great for our business, but it’s also good for the individual to be in a vibrant place.
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FASHION + ACCESSORIES
INDUSTRY REPORT
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DOLCE & YVES SAINT VIKTOR & ROLF ISABELLA BLOW HARVEY GABBANA LAURENT EXHIBITION IN EXHIBITION NICHOLS COLLABORATES APPOINTS MELBOURNE COMES TO RE-OPENS WITH SMEG ANTHONY Opening October 2016 SYDNEY’S MENSWEAR Dolce & Gabbana has VACCARELLO at the National Gallery POWERHOUSE DEPARTMENT joined forces with Italian Following the departure of Victoria (NGV) in MUSEUM Luxury retailer Harvey appliance brand Smeg to of Hedi Slimane, Saint Melbourne, Australia, The wardrobe of Nichols has introduced create an exclusive range Laurent has welcomed Viktor&Rolf: Fashion inimitable English fashion their new menswear of 100 hand-painted, one- Belgian designer Anthony Artists is the first editor and stylist Isabella space, which boasts of-a-kind refrigerators. Vaccarello as Creative exhibition of its kind. Blow, who passed away 270 brands over Retailing at £30,000 each, Director. The 36-year old – Developed in partnership nearly a decade ago, 28,000-square feet. the colourful appliances who has previously worked with the National Gallery will be showcased in an “This is a milestone have been decorated by at Fendi and Versus of Victoria, fashion exclusive exhibition at the moment for our brand local Sicilian artists under Versace – is best known house Viktor&Rolf will Powerhouse Museum as it marks the first the creative direction of for his sharp tailoring showcase some of the in Sydney from May unveiling of our 4 year Domenico Dolce and techniques. Francesca most innovative and 14th – July 17th. Isabella plan to refurbish our Stefano Gabbana. Bellettini, President and extraordinary designs Blow: A Fashionable iconic Knightsbridge
Heavily influenced by CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, of their career. This will Life will feature works store,” said Stacey provincial symbols and said: “I am extremely include over 35 haute from iconic designers Cartwright, Group Chief medieval scenes, the happy to have Anthony couture pieces from the such as Alexander Executive Officer at flamboyant FAB28R-DG Vaccarello take the designers’ collections, McQueen, Philip Treacy Harvey Nichols. “It’s a refrigerators celebrate creative helm of Yves Saint alongside earlier designs OBE and Hussein hugely exciting time family tradition, heritage, Laurent. His modern, pure from the Viktor&Rolf Chalayan. The exhibition for the menswear market and ‘Made in Italy’ aesthetic is the perfect fit archive. “Viktor&Rolf will be accompanied and we couldn’t have excellence. The first for the maison. Anthony stretches the definition by a series of public picked a better time examples from the Vaccarello impeccably of both fashion and programs, including an to create the ultimate collection were shown at balances elements of art,’ said Tony Ellwood, in-conversation event shopping destination for the Salone Internazionale provocative femininity Director, NGV. “Their with Daphne Guinness – menswear in London.” del Mobile 2016 in and sharp masculinity in boundary-pushing designs who purchased Blow’s In addition to world-class Milan. Although Smeg his silhouettes. He is the challenge the way fashion wardrobe and established shopping, visitors can has a history of high- natural choice to express is developed, presented the Isabella Blow take advantage of the profile partnerships with the essence of Yves and disseminated with Foundation. Minister for Style Concierge suite, companies such as BMW Saint Laurent.” Anthony masterful craftsmanship, Trade, Tourism and Major contemporary café and Swarovski, it is the Vaccarello will present intellectual rigour and an Events Stuart Ayres said, and bar, and traditional first time the domestic his first collection for ironic sense of humour.” “Visitors will discover barbers in-store. appliance company has the maison in October an incredible fashion paired with an haute 2016, during Paris collection [...] that can’t couture fashion brand. Spring-Summer 2017 be seen anywhere else in fashion week. Australia or our region.” 10 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
INDUSTRY REPORT
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ELIE SAAB MASSIMILIANO FRENCH BRITISH AGENT LAUNCHES GIORNETTI LACEMAKER FASHION PROVOCATEUR BRIDAL DEPARTS SOPHIE COUNCIL APPOINTS NEW COLLECTION SALVATORE HALLETTE REFORMATS CHIEF EXECUTIVE Lebanese designer Elie FERRAGAMO ACQUIRES AWARDS British luxury lingerie Saab has moved into Florentine fashion house CODENTEL CEREMONY brand Agent Provocateur bridal wear with the Salvatore Ferragamo has French lacemaker Sophie The British Fashion has announced the launch of Elie Saab Bridal. announced the departure Hallette has won the Council has announced appointment of Fabrizio The perfect complement of Massimiliano Giornetti bid to acquire Codentel, a new format for The Malverdi as its new Chief to the haute couture as Creative Director. one of the last remaining Fashion Awards 2016, Executive. With over and ready-to-wear lines, Giornetti, who joined companies representing which will take place 15 years of experience, Elie Saab Bridal offers a Ferragamo in 2000 in Calais’ lacemaking at the iconic Royal Malverdi brings a wealth modern take on wedding the menswear design heritage. The acquisition Albert Hall. Celebrating of knowledge from his dresses with feminine team, progressed steadily follows news that Sophie the best of British and time at such prestigious and daring silhouettes. within the family-owned Halette’s parent company international talent, brands as Dior Homme, Starting from €5,500, the company before being Groupe Holesco received the awards ceremony Christian Dior Couture collection comprises 25 appointed Creative a minority investment will raise funds for the and Givenchy. Fabrizio
styles including gowns, Director in 2011. In from Chanel. “With British Fashion Council Malverdi commented: shorter dresses, and even the wake of Giornetti’s Chanel, we share a strong Education Foundation “I’m really excited to be a jumpsuit. Although the resignation, the maison desire to internationally charity. Dame Natalie joining Agent Provocateur, collection in its entirety has said it will recruit promote Calais’ unique Massenet, BFC Chairman a very successful won’t launch until from within. “We will take place and magnify the commented: “Nadja business with a unique October 2016, a selection this opportunity to revisit results worldwide for [Swarovski] and her team heritage. I look forward of styles is already our creative approach,” this unique French lace have made these awards to working with the available in stores (Paris, commented Michele industry so essential to possible and we are existing management Beirut, Dubai, Hong Norsa, Group CEO. “Over haute couture, fashion thrilled to be working in team to lead Agent Kong and at Harrods time the company has brands and designers,” partnership with them Provocateur in the next in London). A digital nurtured and sponsored said Romain Lescroart, once again. As a global phase of its growth, campaign to accompany many young designers president of Sophie industry we should consolidating its position the launch centres on and is fortunate to be Hallette. “It is important make a commitment to as a key player in the an animation of the able to count on an to maintain these support talented people luxury fashion sector.” word ‘oui’ – that magical excellent in-house team.” exceptional skills and from all backgrounds Agent Provocateur word with the power to unique group of Leavers to […] access the best is backed by 3i, an transform a proposal into in France. These two- universities in the world. international investment an engagement. hundred year old looms Over the next ten years firm. let us create the high-end, our ambition is to raise labeled laces so essential and invest £10million to to meet the demands of support young people in today’s creative markets.” this goal.” 11 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
TRAVEL + AVIATION
INDUSTRY REPORT
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NEW PRIVATE GULFSTREAM BENTLEY BMW TRUSSARDI CHARTER TRAVEL INSTALLS PARTNERS WITH UNLEASHES DESIGNS COMPANY UPGRADE T SIR PETER BLAKE 7 SERIES INTERIORS FOR WINGS The U.S. Federal Aviation Celebrated British artist CENTENNIAL DYNAMIQ YACHTS Founded by Douglas Administration has Sir Peter Blake has MODEL The best of Milan and Hopkins, Wings is a new approved Gulfstream designed a one-of-a- In recognition of BMW’s Monaco collide as bespoke travel company Aerospace Corp.’s kind Bentley Continental 100th anniversary, the Italian fashion house offering accessible private upgrade on GIV-SP GT V8 S Convertible in carmakers have created Trussardi joins forces jet or helicopter travel. aircraft. The mandated his signature bold pop a limited edition model with Dynamiq Yachts Having been a pilot for avionics upgrade known art style. Commenting with three drive variants. to create an exclusive over thirty years – thirteen as Future Air Navigation on the collaboration, These are the BMW interior design collection of which were spent System (FANS) 1/A+ uses Sir Peter commented: 740Le iPerformance for the D4 series model as a captain on private automation and satellite- “I am proud to have and BMW 740Le xDrive range. Tomaso Trussardi, jets – Hopkins brings a based technology to boost been involved with iPerformance with plug-in CEO of Trussardi Group wealth of expertise. “The communication and traffic transforming this hybrid system, the V8 comments, “We are travel industry is changing management. Not only beautiful car, and have model BMW 750Li and very excited to be and customers rightfully does the upgrade enhance enormous admiration BMW 750Li xDrive as working with Dynamiq
expect personable service, safety and optimise for the people at Bentley well as the BMW M760Li Yachts on this special attention to detail and flight time (making the who brought my design xDrive featuring a twelve- project that blends the the utmost in luxury jet planes more fuel-efficient), into being, to produce cylinder power unit. As craftsmanship of our charter,” says Hopkins. it also reduces the this one-off lovely car.” the sixth generation of Trussardi Casa creations Based in Ireland, Wings pilot’s workload and This unique car will be the luxury sedan, the with the avant-garde and works with a range of includes automated auctioned for charity new BMW 7 Series has futuristic technology of aviation companies position reporting. by Bonhams at the raised the standards these yachts.” In addition and operates out of “Like our solution for GV Goodwood Festival of for comfort, style and to furniture, clients can most airports. With no aircraft, this system was Speed on 24 June, efficiency. Formally titled also select from a range fleet of its own, costs developed by Gulfstream with all funds raised ‘BMW Individual 7 Series of home fragrance that are kept to a minimum. and Honeywell to fully to be donated to THE NEXT 100 YEARS’, includes candles, The company also offers integrate with the GIV-SP Care2Save Charitable the range also comes diffusers and room a complete concierge flight deck,” said Derek Trust. The Sir Peter with a unique Montblanc fragrance sprays. An service in conjunction with Zimmerman, president, Blake design, which also for BMW fountain pen, excusive apparel range yacht, villa and limousine Gulfstream Product includes a personalised limited to 100 pieces. to tie-in with this special hire companies. Support. “It is not a stand- playlist from the artist’s Trussardi for Dynamiq alone system. The full favourite music, is collection will soon functionality of the flight the second Bentley follow, featuring summer management system — Continental GT Bentley clothes, hats and luggage. auto throttle, autopilot, is donating to the and vertical navigation — Care2Save Charitable is retained.” Trust. 12 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
INTERIORS + DESIGN
INDUSTRY REPORT
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MOOOI NAVA + NAVA VANDERHURD VERSACE WILNELIA PARTNERS DESIGNS FOR RELEASES BRINGS FORSYTH WITH KLAUS RUBELLI NEW RUG THE HOME LONDON HAAPANIEMI Milan Design Week COLLECTION COLLECTION LAUNCHES Interiors and lifestyle saw the Rubelli Group Renowned design studio IN-HOUSE NEW CANDLE brand Moooi has teamed continue to foster Vanderhurd has launched As of this year, the Versace COLLECTION up with Klaus Haapaniemi emerging design talent its latest rug collection, Home collection will be Lady Wilnelia Forsyth & Co. for the second with a number of launches titled Amelia Truss. brought in-house to create has launched a new time with a collection and collaborations. One A hand-woven sumac a fully comprehensive range of hand-poured of five carpets. The rugs such partnership is with construction, the rugs Versace world. The candles inspired by the have been adapted from Nava + Nava Design were made on an upright Versace Home division, exquisite fragrances of the the recently launched Studio, who have created loom using 85% linen which was launched in Caribbean. ““The collection ‘Polar Byzantine’ silk scarf a capsule collection of yarns. The remaining 15% 1992, offers a collection is inspired by some of collection, and are based handmade PILA-47 chairs is made up of viscose of home textiles, interiors my earliest recollections,” on the story of magical upholstered in choice yarn, which lends both and furniture. “Versace reveals Forsyth. “Sitting Arctic animals by award- fabrics from the Rubelli strength and shine to the Home has been part of with my grandfather in winning Finnish author, portfolio. Showcasing design. Available in five Versace DNA since the his garden, my brother
Rosa Liksom. Moooi’s a new way of seating, colourways (as well as very beginning,” said Gian close by under the mango high-resolution printing the rounded furniture custom colours through Giacomo Ferraris, CEO tree, drinking water methods have breathed comprises a wooden seat the bespoke division), of Versace. “To bring from a fresh coconut. All life and vibrancy into with a textile sleeve that the rugs are individually it in-house is a natural around us the scent of the story of the animals’ can be reshaped according woven and dyed by hand step forward to pursue tuberose....” Each of the escape from a melting to the user’s needs. in India. The Amelia Truss our strategy to increase five candles is named after landscape to an ice palace The innovative product design also marks the first and further develop the a scent, a flower, or an far away. The collection champions Rubelli’s collaboration between Company. Versace Home ethereal memory: Jungle debuted in Milan as part Venetian textile history and Creative Director Christine is an important asset for Orchid, Valle de Collores, of the Salone del Mobile. retails for £1,450. Van Der Hurd and her the brand and will improve Azucena, Cunde Amor, son-in-law Jacob Van its potential in-house”. Moon Flower. Available Horn, Vanderhurd New The internalisation strategy exclusively at Fortnum York Studio Director. has been made possible & Mason, a percentage thanks to two exclusive of the profits will go producer relationships to the Wilnelia Forsyth with Cassina Contract Foundation. (furniture) and Nemo (lighting). The textile division continues to be produced and distributed by Versace.Interdum et malesuada fames. 13 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
LUXURY FOCUS
FACE VALUE
WORDS BY JULIA ZALTZMAN
ONCE THE PRESERVE OF BEAUTY-CONSCIOUS WOMEN WITH LITTLE TIME ON THEIR HANDS, GROOMING SUBSCRIPTION SITES ARE NOW A FLOURISHING MARKET FOR MEN TOO. BUT DON’T CONFUSE CONVENIENCE FOR CUT-PRICE, AS LUXURY BRANDS SUCH AS HOMMAGE TESTIFY
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To put it simply, the business Favoured for delivering value, HOMMAGE WAS BUILT of male grooming is booming. convenience and quality, it has FROM THE GROUND UP Never before have we witnessed historically been the female TO BE DESIGNED ONLY such a global surge in both sales targeted sites, such as US-based FOR MEN of, and interest in, cosmetics Birchbox and its key competitor by the male population. The in Europe, Glossybox, that Independent recently reported have driven the market for a 300 per cent growth in men’s subscription sites. However, with beauty and grooming products the rise of internet sales and in 2015 for high-end etailer the ability to customise orders, Mrporter.com, while the world a host of male-targeted luxury market for 2016 has an estimated subscription sites have exploded value of £14.8 billion. onto the market. Even more importantly, “For HOMMAGE, convenience the market is still growing and went hand-in-hand with the diversifying, and it’s the fairly brand’s bespoke and catered- recent phenomena of luxury to-him attributes,” says Ball. subscription services that “HOMMAGE was built from the have taken up the mantle and ground up to be designed only run with it. Much like their for men.” online retailer counterparts, The question has been raised subscription sites transcend whether the very element of physical barriers, which has convenience is at odds with the helped to fuel their rapid essence of luxury, but with big worldwide growth particularly labels, including couture fashion within the top 10 boom markets house Hermès seeking exposure for men’s toiletries, which for its whimsical Petit h line, includes Brazil, South Korea, the and high-end jewellers Cartier US, Germany, India, China and and Chopard expanding their the UK. affluent consumers’ collections “Today, the men’s grooming through a new subscription market is mature,” says Kim Ball, programme, the sceptics are executive of brand integration being silenced. at HOMMAGE, luxury male Pitched as luxury concierge grooming brand now endorsed services that connect their by specialist cosmetic surgeon clients with hand-selected Dr Samuel Van Eeden for its anti- products direct to their door, it ageing properties. “It’s no longer is sites such as HOMMAGE and a question of ‘do I groom?’, but Svbscription (which charges rather ‘who do I groom with?’.” US$330 a quarter for a personally
15 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
LUXURY FOCUS
curated box), that are causing shaving products”. Internet sales the biggest stir. For a monthly fee reached a whopping US$342 Birchbox Man offers customers million in 2015, the vast majority three to four deluxe samples of which consisted of razors of grooming goods, all custom- and blades. Online shave clubs tailored to skin and hair type, have become big business, and while Luxury Barber selects nine while less than five per cent of sample-sized and one full-sized American men are currently product every month. members, experts believe there “The purchasing landscape is plenty of upward potential. At is changing,” says Blair odds with this trend is the UK Cassuto, director of marketing market, where the hipster beard communications at Luxury has grown steadily over the last Barber Club. “Now more than decade causing a sharp decline in ever, people are searching men’s shaving and forcing brands for quality products that to adapt. deliver value and are convenient “The point of entry, for us, to get. This luxury subscription was to create a unique experience service category is spreading around the ritual of shaving,” like wildfire, and this is just says Ball. “Shaving and not the beginning.” grooming was the tangible act The combination of bespoke that could be improved. Out in and limited edition adds to the front of the market, HOMMAGE appeal in the luxury market, was gathering knowledge and but it’s the rise of luxury insights and it became evident shaving products that has really that to create a better shaving hit the big time. According to experience, we needed to go well Euromonitor, the most important beyond the shave and look at his story in men’s grooming in the overall health and wellness. US continues to be “the stellar “Working with skincare growth of online sales of men’s experts around the world, HOMMAGE was determined to evolve its offering to include face care products designed from the get-go with him and his male
Feature: HOMMAGE product line
16 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
NOW MORE THAN EVER, PEOPLE ARE SEARCHING FOR QUALITY PRODUCTS THAT DELIVER VALUE AND ARE CONVENIENT TO GET.
skin in mind. For example, of grooming and face care wonder that male-targeted For brands such as HOMMAGE, creating an exfoliation made another. For every one shave subscription boxes have evolved which offers pharmaceutical from Black Diamond Dust that product, two face care products into such big business. While grade skincare, razor blades is tough enough to exfoliate a are purchased today.” luxury goods are traditionally made from surgical steel man’s skin barrier while being From bespoke skincare positioned as exclusive items and ergonomically designed gentle and protecting. analyses and scientific research only obtainable for a select and engineered grooming “So, as shaving has exponentially to a personal concierge delivering demographic, subscription equipment, this game has only grown into grooming, unique experiences, it’s little services have disrupted the just got started. HOMMAGE is seeing a mirrored traditional formula of how high- correlation in its product sales. end products are experienced. Shaving products are one aspect hommage.com
17 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
JEWELLERY + WATCHES
INDUSTRY REPORT
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ZENITH TEAMS BOODLES APPLE WATCH TIFFANY & CO. VACHERON UP WITH RALLY INTRODUCES HERMÈS ARRIVES AT CONSTANTIN ORGANISATION SONIA LAUNCH NEW NET-A-PORTER INTRODUCES HERO DELAUNAY- COLOURWAYS Tiffany & Co. has formed TAILORING- In classic car rallying, INSPIRED RANGE First launched last October, a pioneering alliance with INSPIRED timing is everything, The new Prism collection the Apple Watch Hermès luxury e-tailer Net-A- COLLECTION which is why Swiss watch from Boodles features has been given a spring Porter. “Tiffany is such Drawing on the manufacturer Zenith has multi-gem bracelets, makeover with the addition an important brand in sophisticated world of partnered with the UK pendants, rings and of four new coloured luxury jewellery, and its high-end tailoring, based Historic Endurance earrings as well as a one- straps: the classic Hermès heritage holds a special Vacheron Constantin has Rallying Organisation of-a-kind, high jewellery Bleu Paon (green), Bleu meaning for so many of launched a new collection (HERO). The El Primero collar. Influenced by Saphir (blue), Blanc (white) our customers,” said Sarah for men: Métiers d’Art Chronomaster Open the abstract paintings and Feu (orange). For Rutson, vice president of Elégance Sartoriale. 1969 Hero Cup Edition of Parisian artist Sonia the first time, the special global buying for Net-A- Stamped with the Geneva is limited to 100 pieces, Delaunay, Boodles Head edition wristbands are Porter. “We are thrilled Seal, the collection and features a black of Design Rebecca being made available for to serve as Tiffany’s first comprises five models alligator leather strap Hawkins used vibrant purchase from Apple and ever global ecommerce with 40mm cases in rose
with protective rubber gemstones and fine Hermès stores, as well partner, an extraordinary or grey gold. The main lining and red stitching. diamonds in angular as select luxury retail coup for both brands.” dial is finished in one of Zenith will be the Official settings. Hawkins was locations. This means that The collaboration begins five motifs inspired by Timekeeper of the HERO also inspired by a trip existing and future Apple with an edit of the Tiffany famous fabrics such as Cup and the future to St. Ives, and the Watch owners will be able T collection, which will be Prince of Wales check, winner of the HERO Cup colourful sailing boats to mix and match straps available for a limited time. herringbone, and tartan. will also receive a Zenith of the Cornish seaside to their watches, creating “With their recognised edit An off-centre gold subdial El Primero Chronomaster town can be seen in their own edition. and fashion authority, at three o’ clock Open. In a stylish twist the choice of abstract Net-A-Porter will re- completes the look, that horophiles will shapes. Prices range introduce Tiffany as acting as a counterpoint appreciate, the watch’s from £2,400 for the more than the legendary – much like a tie or opening reveals the Prism ring to £36,500 jeweller, but an expression pocket square does to a beating heart of the for the Prism bracelet of personal style,” said well-balanced suit. An El Primero movement. featuring green beryl, Philippe Galtie, senior vice alligator leather strap in red tourmaline, green president of international burgundy, dark brown, tourmalines,yellow beryls, sales at Tiffany & Co. taupe, or blue, is rubellites and period set available, along with a pair in 18-carat white gold of cufflinks that match with diamonds. the subdial’s tapestry- patterned motif.
18 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
INDUSTRY REPORT
6 7 8 9 10 . IWC LAUNCHES HUBLOT OPENS CHRISTOPHER PIAGET UPDATES RAYMOND BEIJING FIFTH AVENUE WARD UNVEILS POSSESSION WEIL RELEASES INTERNATIONAL STORE REBRAND COLLECTION BEATLES FILM FESTIVAL Swiss watchmaker British luxury Fine jewellery makers TIMEPIECE WATCH Hublot has opened a watchmakers Christopher Piaget have updated their To mark the 40th IWC Schaffhausen flagship on New York Ward has launched a Possession Collection with anniversary of Raymond continues their City’s Fifth Avenue. complete rebrand of 21 new pieces comprising Weil, the Swiss partnership with the Designed by Peter their logo, website, and bangles, rings, earrings, watchmaker has released Chinese film industry by Marino, the boutique is the company magazine and a statement choker a limited edition timepiece launching the Portofino the brand’s largest retail (renamed Loupe). The necklace. Speaking featuring one of the most Hand-Wound Eight location in the United new look branding will about the Hi turning ring iconic bands of all time. Days Edition ‘Beijing States. Inside, black lava be displayed on all new from the range, Piaget’s The maestro Beatles International Film Festival stone, wood floors and timepieces, and highlights Global Ambassador Limited Edition features 2016’. Limited to 50 graphite-coloured leather the combination of British Jessica Chastain a mechanical self-winding pieces, the watch is furnishings complete the and Swiss aesthetic. comments, “When I’m movement housed in a available exclusively at contemporary aesthetic Alongside this revamp, wearing my Possession 39.5mm polished steel the IWC boutiques in of a brand best known Christopher Ward has ring, whether I’m working case. Fans of the Fab
Beijing and Shanghai. for its innovative use also launched two or daydreaming, I usually Four will appreciate The timepiece features of materials. Ricardo new watches within its find myself turning it, it’s thoughtful touches such a stainless steel case Guadalupe, CEO of Trident Collection: the very addictive.” Available as the 13 Beatles’ album and a see-through Hublot, said: “Hublot C65 Trident Vintage in rose, white and yellow titles written all around sapphire-glass back is thrilled to share this and the C65 Trident gold, the pieces start the bespoke dial, with a bearing the logo of the exciting occasion with the Classic. “In July 2014 we from £910 for the rose special ‘Help’ index at Beijing International Film city of New York, where merged with Synergies gold classic chain bracelet 4 o’clock which references Festival. The exclusive our concept of the Horlogères,” explains to £54,500 for the white their fifth studio album. timepiece is powered Art of Fusion comes to co-founder Mike France. gold fully paved bangle. Elie Bernheim, CEO by IWC’s 59210-calibre life in full form. Not only “[…]Having two parts To support this expansion, of Raymond Weil, movement and needs are we celebrating our of the business, the the brand will launch commented: “We could to be wound just once new boutique on Fifth UK part and the Swiss, a new Possession print, not feel more proud to a week. “As a watch Avenue […] but we are we thought it was an digital and social media associate our brand name manufacturer with strong paying tribute to the appropriate time to relook advertising campaign with the exceptional ties to China, which now iconic and innovative at the branding of the in May. Beatles. Raymond Weil has the largest movie All Black collection that business and the brand has always been closely industry in the world, Hublot founded exactly proposition, because it linked with music, our IWC is proud to support 10 years ago.” now had its own atelier dear source of inspiration the Beijing International and manufacturing arm since our early days.” Film Festival,” explains in Switzerland and we Georges Kern, CEO of needed to represent IWC Schaffhausen. that.” 19 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
FOOD + DRINK
INDUSTRY REPORT
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GOLD ON 27 LITTLE CHAMPEAUX OZONE BAR HOLBORN BAR OPENS IN RED DOOR OPENS IN LES CELEBRATES DINING ROOM DUBAI LAUNCHES THE HALLES, PARIS LE FRENCH LAUNCHES THE Located on the top floor EVOCATIVE Located in historic Les GOURMAY GIN BAR of the iconic Burj Al Arab MENU Halles, the new restaurant Organised by the French The Gin Bar at Rosewood Jumeriah, the new Gold A regular on the World’s by Alain Ducasse and Trade Commission in Hong London hotel’s Holborn On 27 bar is an exciting 50 Best Bars list, Parisian Olivier Maurey features Kong, Le French GourMay is Dining Room has opened. addition to the Dubai cocktail bar Little Red a 180-seater dining an annual celebration of “We always want to have social scene. Here, guests Door has unveiled its new space, terrace, private French food and drink a strong British feeling in can discover innovative Evocative menu. Created salon, bar and lounge. culture. This year, the everything we do at cocktails created using in conjunction with eleven With an emphasis on raw world’s highest bar, Ozone, Holborn Dining Room, so premium brands and a diverse artists over the materials and minimalist joins in the festivities with a why not work with the range of unusual course of a year, the new lines, the décor has a range of Alsatian delicacies. most celebrated UK ingredients such as foie menu dispenses with bright and airy feel, In addition to a medley of spirit?” Said bar manager gras, oud oil, and goat names and ingredients which is enhanced by Flammekueche (thinly Matthew Sloper. “At over cheese foam. “Our team lists altogether. Instead, vast bay windows. The rolled-out dough, 400 gins and counting, of expert mixologists has each artist has been menu offers classic traditionally topped with we have the largest
put a huge amount of invited to create artwork brasserie fare, as well as pork belly and onion), there selection of gin in thought into the menu based upon what an impressive wine list will also be a specially London, which is really and we will consistently sensations and emotions and cocktail selection. crafted cocktail for the exciting – especially when be pushing the the drinks invoked during “We envisioned this space occasion. The ever- coupled with the 27 boundaries with blind taste tests. Head as an original version of a innovative mixologist Miguel different tonics, including ingredients, flavours and bartender Remy Savage contemporary brasserie,” Fernandez has created a our top-secret homemade theatre to bring the menu and his team at Little Red said Alain Ducasse. A large drink of foie gras-infused tonic.” In total, guests can to life,” says Paul Bradley, Door are known for their display board, similar to Cognac, 10-year-old port explore an astonishing the General Manager at innovative take on mixed those found in departure wine, spiced sugar and egg, 14,035 possible gin and Gold On 27. Bookings drinks, and this latest lounges, features a list aptly named Alsace. tonic pairings from can be made through an offering is a fine example of dishes and drinks. established international app, available on both of the bar’s originality. This is updated over the brands to small-batch, Android and IOS, which is course of the day to local distillers. then activated upon reflect cooking times and arrival at the hotel. product availability.
20 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
INDUSTRY REPORT
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EMPORIO LA CITÉ DU DUDDELL’S CUNARD THE GORING ARMANI CAFFÈ VIN OPENS IN LAUNCHES KRUG INTRODUCES TEAMS UP WITH OPENS IN BORDEAUX TASTING MENU NEW DINING HEPPLE GIN AMMAN Due to be officially Duddell’s, the two OPTIONS Launching in June, The The Armani Group has opened on June 1 by Michelin-starred British luxury travel Goring hotel’s private opened its first Emporio French President François restaurant in Hong Kong, cruise line Cunard has garden will play host Armani Caffè in Amman, Hollande, La Cité du Vin has announced the announced new food to British spirits brand Jordan. An open and is the ten-storey ode to launch of a seven-course and drink options for Hepple Gin. Created by elegant space on the wine located on the banks tasting menu created by its liner Queen Mary TV chef and food writer second floor of the of the River Garonne. head chef Siu Hin Chi. 2. As part of the major Valentine Warner and his Taj Lifestyle Mall, the “Sydney has the Opera Until July 3rd, Duddell’s refit that is taking place childhood friend Walter café covers 200-square House, Paris the Eiffel will pair Cantonese in June, Queen Mary 2 Riddell, the gin is made metres. Metal tabletops, Tower, but until now delicacies with different will launch new dining using an innovative three- pearl gold leathers, and Bordeaux has lacked Krug champagnes. facilities and menus. part process. Speaking red Armani/Casa Diogene an iconic identity,” says Dishes will include such “At Cunard, we pride about the collaboration, lamps complete the Philippe Massol, director local specialities as wild ourselves in delivering a Riddell remarked: “We sophisticated look. As for general of the Foundation abalone with pork knuckle culinary experience that are thrilled to be working
the menu, Armani Group’s for Wine Culture and caviar matched with continuously exceeds with The Goring because, Coporate Chef in Milan and Civilisations. The a glass of Krug, Grande guest expectations and like us, the hotel is a has created a selection interactive, multisensory Cuvee. Followed by a illustrates Cunard’s family business with of dishes in keeping space will host choice of sautéed lobster utmost attention to an uncompromisingly with Italian flavours and exhibitions, performances, with crispy conpoy, or detail,” said Angus independent spirit. There traditions. The new space conferences and wine- stuffed crab shell with Struthers, Marketing is no better spot in also offers a dedicated tasting workshops that black truffle with Krug Director, Cunard. “We London for us to share corner in which to taste showcase the region’s 2003. Then, the fried are pleased to debut a small corner of the and buy the Armani/Dolci wine heritage. Three pigeon with premium refreshed culinary Hepple estate so stylishly collection. tasting laboratories will soy sauce is teamed with offerings on Queen Mary than The Goring Garden.” host workshops for Krug Rose. Available for 2 Remastered, which we The one-off living bar and both adults and younger both lunch and dinner, have created to appeal gin safari will run from visitors, to educate the the menu is priced at to the most discerning June to September. public on the principles HK$1,280, or HK$2,880 guests while revitalising of wine. The €81-million per person with the Krug classic dishes and creating project also features a Champagne pairing. new ones.” Offerings 250-seat auditorium, include a Scandinavian three restaurants, a wine Seafood Platter with bar, boutique and shop. Horseradish Cream, and Asparagus Specialties with Oeuf Mollet and Pink Grapefruit. 21 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
HOSPITALITY
INDUSTRY REPORT
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FOUR SEASONS THE MANDALAY THE BELMOND LE CAFÉ ROYAL HOTEL DUBAI ESTATE OPENS GLENEAGLES MANOIR AUX DEBUTS INTERNATIONAL ITS DOORS HOTEL QUAT’SAISONS MIDSUMMER FINANCIAL For the first time, INVESTS IN ADDS NIGHT’S CENTRE OPENS The Mandalay Estate REFURBISHMENT WELLBEING DREAMING In a deliberate deviation on the Caribbean island The Gleneagles Hotel’s COURSES PACKAGE with Dubai’s obsession of Mustique is available new owner Ennismore has Set in Oxfordshire, The To mark the 400th with superlatives, the for hire. Built in 1989 announced a multi-million Raymond Blanc Cookery anniversary of new Four Seasons for David Bowie, in pound refurbishment plan. School at Belmond Le Shakespeare’s death, Café Hotel DIFC is neither collaboration with “The Gleneagles Hotel Manoir aux Quat’Saisons Royal hotel on London’s the biggest nor the renowned architects is an incredible property has added new wellbeing Regent Street is offering tallest. The eight-storey Arne Hasslqvist and and beloved brand,” said courses to its schedule. guests a Midsummer building has only 106 Robert Litwiller, the Ennismore founder and A ‘Taste of Wellbeing’ Night’s Dreaming guest accommodations, stunning hilltop estate is CEO, Sharan Pasricha. “It is a three-hour intensive package. Comprising a which lends it an intimate one of the island’s most is known the world over course that aids in stay in the Tudor Suite atmosphere. As well as iconic properties. A blend for its golf, but with 850 restoring balance to (other room categories the many innovations of Balinese style with acres of beautiful Scottish the body and mind. also available), food and
that guests have come contemporary elements, countryside, there is the The half-day commences drink, and tickets for to expect from hotels the unique 7-bedroom potential to do so much with a nutritious smoothie Henry V at Regent’s Park around the world, the estate contains all of the more with the hotel.” and an hour-long session Open Air Theatre, the Four Seasons DIFC goes original fixtures, furniture The much-loved hotel of therapeutic yoga. immersive experience is above and beyond. “We and styling from Bowie’s will be working with Then, guests make their a unique tribute to the have special relationships ownership. Situated on some of the country’s way to the Raymond playwright. The Grade II with retailers such as 6.2 acres, the west- most distinguished Blanc Cookery School, listed Tudor Suite features Bloomingdale’s and facing property is ideal designers, including David where Head Tutor Mark an original Tudor fireplace. Harvey Nichols, and for enjoying the island’s Collins Studio, Timorous Peregrine and nutritionist Package rates start from we can even arrange spectacular sunsets and Beasties, Macaulay Natalia Traxel will share £3,750 per night in the for in-room tailoring stunning beaches. A team Sinclair and Goddard their top food tips. Tudor Suite or £650 by Tom James,” says of 14 staff is on hand Littlefair. Gleneagles’ There will be other Taste per night in a Deluxe Chef Concierge Peter to look after guests and will continue to provide of Wellbeing courses Guestroom, including all Wharmby. “Those looking ensure a memorable stay. 5-star service throughout throughout the year, taxes. Inclusions are based to augment their art the improvements, and including themes such on two adults. collections can access plans are in place to keep as ‘500 Calories in One the services of the Lawrie disruption as minimal as Day’, ‘Anti Allergies’, Shabibi gallery’s team, possible. The hotel will ‘Skin and Beauty’ and which can set up private remain open throughout. a ‘Gluten Free’ course. viewings, advise on Sessions without yoga purchases and arrange are also available. safe transport home.” 22 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
Luxury futures
COIN RESEARCH We continue our six-part series on putting tech innovation at the heart of luxury with Coin Research
to scan objects around You’ve got all the designs in you and then order them 3D so it wouldn’t be such an TAPPING NEW TECHNOLOGIES WILL HELP directly from Amazon; and HP extension to put those files DEVELOP YOUR LUXURY BRAND AND PRODUCTS has recently launched what they online,” explains Rejal. “When FOR A MODERN AUDIENCE. NOW, MORE THAN EVER, call ‘blended reality’ devices a consumer needs something IS THE TIME TO PUT INNOVATION AT THE CORE OF (such as the all-in-one computer replacing they search for the YOUR COMPANY AND RECOGNISE THE POTENTIAL and 3D scanner Sprout) using part and you charge for access APPLICATIONS TO THE LUXURY BUSINESS RealSense technology. to that file. They either have a Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook 3D printer in their house or a HOW CAN LUXURY specialist service prints it BRANDS USE THIS? for them. “ The potential for luxury One can pick up the part, or organisations is not only in get it delivered to you or to your the speed in which they can go maintenance team, but instead Examining from concept to customer but of it taking three weeks it takes a also in the ability to include the couple of hours. For the supplier bespoke products customer in the design process, it works too – no longer do they satisfying the true luxury have to warehouse these parts. and 3D scanning consumer desire for the most Luxury then becomes about bespoke and personal products. access to the best software and The evolution of many creative “The potential is similar A new culture of machinery, in collaboration industries has demonstrated to what’s happened with click and buy is clearly with the best customer service how quickly hardware can Instagram,” explains Rejal, “It beginning to take shape across specialists, to deliver a superior become commoditised with became what we all do with 2D all markets but the ability to service. Specialised printing the value subsequently shifting images and the next wave is scan things in your current hubs will create physical spaces from hardware to software. 3D i.e. people scanning things environment and link that to connect the brand to online For example, think about the around them in 3D. Partly for to a purchase or commission sales and provide a real-time evolution of the Walkman – now fun, and partly for actual use.” is incredible. Imagine the experience - the combination of the money is in the iPod/iTunes possibilities for luxury. a 3D print workshop, product relationship as well as content THE NEXT GENERATION If Ikea already has a full showroom and customer service protection and quality software. It OF LUXURY DESIGNERS catalogue of 3D models that hub giving the luxury customer is not in the hardware itself. So far 3D has been the domain of you can play with digitally in the personal experience they And that’s what’s happening the pros – designers, modelers, your home the impact of similar crave and creating rich new in the 3D industry – the software scientists and engineers - but technology employed by for routes for marketing. that allows us to search for, curate consumers themselves will soon example Harvey Nichols, and use 3D content is rapidly have a device in their hands that Bang & Olufsen or B&B Italia gaining value. will be able to scan images in 3D. will be very powerful – in both About COIN Research We are starting to see the For instance Microsoft Kinect experiential and functional COIN Research work with luxury brands to uncover future audiences early stages of 3D printing in lets people control an interface elements of retail. and nurture marketing, brand and luxury but more importantly, says using gesture and voice with product development. We help Seena Rejal, Founder CEO at 3D an infrared 3D camera add-on 3D SEARCH WILL BE brands take advantage of cultural Industries, 3D scanning (taking for the Xbox 360 console; the THE NEW INTERFACE and market trends and changing a 3D image) is opening up and new Dell tablet comes with a 3D BETWEEN THE SHOPPER drivers of consumer behaviour. it is this that will have a lasting camera for depth images; Apple AND THE RETAILER Our work is global but our home is impact on business processes. has brought out PrimeSense and Where the next generation London (coin-research.com) 3D Industries deploys advanced they’re releasing cameras that of 3D will really start to take off 3D shape search technology indicate they’re moving further is in the design of spare parts (searching by shape and geometry) in the direction of 3D scanning; and product maintenance. in order to organise, track and use Amazon is playing around with “Imagine as a producer you’ve Next in the series: Coin Research those 3D scans. their Fire Phone so you’ll be able designed a luxury product. takes a look at wearables
23 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
Retail property
EUROPE NEW YORK
Berlin houses 5.9m residents the existing Karstadt on On Fifth Avenue, Ermenegildo Zara opened its ninth city across its metropolitan area, Kurfürstendamm. Zegna to open a mega store location, 503 Broadway and and attracts 12m tourists a Kurfürstendamm and in the Crown Building at features “smart” dressing rooms year. The average purchasing Tauentzienstrasse are the 730 Fifth Avenue on 57 Street with touchscreens for store- power is slightly below the principle shopping boulevards adjacent to Bulgari. associate help and sizing and national average, but remains in the west of the city centre – Madison Avenue is playing availability information. significantly higher than found the latter attains the highest musical chairs. Swiss Moynat In Noho, Lululemon Lab in most other European cities. rents at over N3,500/sqm per opened its 937 Madison Avenue 50 Bond Street between The Berlin has several strong annum, but Ku’damm contains next door to Met Breuer, and the Bowery & Lafayette Street has distinct areas of pitch across the the majority of luxury brands. store itself looks like a domed debuted. Italian clothing label city centre, as well as thriving In 2015 Salvatore Ferragamo trunk. Leather goods retailer Boglioli will have a first US store district centres and freestanding opened a 270 sqm store close Bally is moving from 650 to at 10 Bond Street. malls. Malls are popular, with to Gucci and Bvlgari, whilst 687 Madison Avenue directly over 60 separate locations Versace opened a 350 sqm across from Hermes. Georg NEW YORK NEWS: Underground available, as well as large-scale unit next door. Superdry will Jensen, featuring products that shopping comes upscale, retailers department stores that have open one of its largest stores in range from jewellery to home realize the commuter shopper is an floorspaces comparable to Europe in Spring 2017, at 3,000 products, 698 Madison Avenue. untapped demographic. TURNSTYLE shopping centres - most notably sqm across two floors, taking Lacoste at 575 Madison Avenue is Under Columbus Circle is the newest the luxury 60,000 sqm KaDeWe over from the previous tenant, temporarily closed for renovation sub terrain shopping mecca; enter on on Tauentzienstrasse. Gerry Weber. and will unveil an exciting new any corner of 57th and 58th Street and The most significant recent Friedrichstrasse provides an store design any day. De Beers 8th Avenue. Serving daily commuters, mall opening was the Mall of additional luxury destination Diamond Jewelers leaving the residents and tourists. Projections Berlin: located centrally on the 15 minutes east of Ku’damm. corner of Fifth Avenue and include “22 million people, 24 shops site of the Wertheim department Anchored by Galeries Lafayette, 55th Street and relocating to and 10 restaurants.” store on Leipziger Strasse, many brands have a second unit 716 Madison Avenue. it houses c.270 units across there, with Karl Lagerfeld having In Midtown, Maserati Happy Shopping! 76,000 sqm. It was developed opened an additional 350 sqm of Manhattan is moving to by HGHI Holding GmbH and store in 2015. Although rents for 639 11th Avenue, on the corner opened in September 2014, Friedrichstrasse have stagnated of West 47th Street. with an extension planned for recently at around N2,000/sqm/ In NoMad, Todd Snyder’s first an additional 50 units, taking year, retail demand continues to U.S. flagship store will open at it to 135,000 sqm by 2017. The increase across Berlin. 23 East 26th Street across the fashion offer is primarily mid- street from Madison Square Park. market, although Karl Lagerfeld, In SoHo, John Hardy luxury 7 For All Mankind, Gant, Hugo jewellery from Bali will open its Boss and Tommy Hilfiger have first US Boutique at 118 Prince all taken stores in addition to Berlin houses 5.9m Street, an entire building over their high street units. HGHI three floors. Frame Denim to Holding GmbH also plan to open residents across its 51 Greene Street between Grand the Mall of Ku’Damm in 2019; metropolitan area, and Broome Streets. Canada at 80,000 sqm and containing and attracts 12m Goose landing at 101 Wooster 230 units, it will incorporate tourists a year Street. Spanish fashion chain
Jonathan de Mello, Harper Dennis Hobbs Faith Hope Consolo, Chairperson of the Retail Group Douglas Elliman Real Estate Tel: +44 (0) 207 462 8703 Tel: 001 212 418 2000 E: [email protected] E: [email protected]
24 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
LONDON
“One man’s misfortune is The renaissance of Dover Street The maison building remains a another man’s gain”. On ‘Bond will no doubt be triggered by the unique proposition for retailers Many market Street the last two leasing opening of the new restaurant and indeed a challenge. Of the commentators have transactions have not included at 10/12 Dover Street (formerly 12 buildings available in this any key money premiums (KMP). Dover Street Wine Bar and category across Mayfair, Maiyet noted the “Dover This is unprecedented in over 20 Pescatori Restaurant) and O&H’s have now secured 40 Conduit Street Market effect” years, assuming LVMH acquires initiatives in leasing 7/10 Grafton Street (formerly the restaurant with the iconic 14 New Bond Street following Street adjacent the former Hong to the Westbury Hotel) in favour Nirav Modi’s (jewels from Jaipur) Kong Consulate (also available). of 6 Grafton Street. Some of the brand relocating to acquisition of 31 Old Bond Street. Heading South West; in best examples include 37 Dover Haymarket Others who have aspirations Brompton Cross the identity of Street (Mallett), 7A Grafton Street of securing a multi-million the brand securing 122 Draycott (formerly Sprueth Magers), pound premium may reflect Avenue and a number of 41/42 Dover Street next door upon whether they should have buildings in Walton Street is to the Arts Club and a couple engaged with unsolicited offers now (almost) market knowledge. of buildings in Clifford Street this time last year. The collateral benefits to the discreetly on the market. Maiyet In Mount Street, KMP’s have area will be significant with are certainly convinced on the dropped from over £2M (paid a number of associated concept having paid a rent with by Simone Rocha to secure transactions likely to happen “a 3 in front of it” for 36,000 sq ft 93 Mount Street) to around in relatively quick succession. to provide a multiple of uses from £500,000; allegedly the sum Sloane Street welcomes Red a restaurant, club and store for Grosvenor is paying Speelman Valentino in the block 131/133 the ethical brand. to facilitate the letting of 129 Sloane Street and Cadogan Some leasing advisors are Mount Street to Valextra. Estate have also entered the viewing the market as “fragile” Gismondi ( No 14) is holding “maison market” in launching as we approach the 23rd June, out for the same figure in opportunities in Cadogan the larger groups are certainly Albemarle Street, which may Gardens. 1 Cadogan Place adopting a wait and see strategy be slightly optimistic given the (5,853 sq ft) will be the new linked to acquisitions which must number of leases on the market home of Hermes and there is provide “a compelling reason” to in Albemarle Street and nearby more than one market rumour progress but the more optimistic, Dover Street; 17 at the last count. suggesting that Versace will opportunistic brands may find In addition, there are at least secure the existing Hermes store excellent leasing possibilities at 7 maison buildings available on Sloane Street. relatively modest prices relative within the area. Many market to the last two or three years of commentators have noted the leasing activity. “Dover Street Market effect” with the iconic brand relocating to Haymarket possibly costing the original home of the brand (and Lord Sugar, the owner of 17/18 Dover Street) dearly.
Keith Wilson, Wilson Mchardy Tel: +44 (0) 207 439 1666 E: [email protected]
25 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
BEAUTY + WELLBEING
INDUSTRY REPORT
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BYREDO VICTORIA BALMAIN ETRO LAUNCHES BURBERRY EXPANDS HAIR BECKHAM RELEASES NEW PERFUME UNVEILS NEW PERFUME PARTNERS WITH FRAGRANCE EXCLUSIVELY IN FRAGRANCE COLLECTION ESTÉE LAUDER French luxury fashion LIBERTY FOR MEN Byredo launched their Estée Lauder and house Balmain has Shantung is the new British fashion original hair perfume Victoria Beckham have launched a new limited fragrance from Etro for powerhouse Burberry collection in 2015. The announced plans to launch edition version of its spring 2016. Inspired has launched a new range, which until now a limited edition make-up signature perfume, by “wild silk and the male fragrance. Named comprised a trio of collection. Set to go on Extatic. The eau de nomadic tribes of an Mr. Burberry, the scent scents (Gypsy Water, Bal sale this September, the parfum pays tribute to orient without time”, the has been created in d’Afrique and Blanche), range will be available at the tiger orchid flower scent is fresh, sweet, partnership with Chief uses a silicone and select retailers and Victoria with opening notes of and fruity with hints of Creative and Chief polymer formula to Beckham stores. “The spicy ginger flower, before lychee. Italian mandarin Executive Officer create a lightweight and whole process has been the highlights of two blends with blackcurrant, Christopher Bailey non-sticky spray. From both inspiring and eye velvety flowers – night rose, and peony, before and perfumer Francis April, the fragrance house opening – from going back jasmine and ylang-ylang giving way to woody Kurkdjian. The herbal added four new scents and revisiting the Estée – kick in. A rich, feminine notes of cedar, cashmere eau de toilette fuses
to their hair perfume line: Lauder archives through scent, the fragrance then and a sensuous finale of classic and contemporary La Tulipe, Mojave Ghost, to working on the product goes on to reveal woody musk. As for the name, ingredients such as zesty Flowerhead and Black with the Estée team, this base notes of patchouli, Shantung refers to a type grapefruit, warm vetiver, Saffron. As the name feels like the perfect make- cashmeran and benzoin. of silk fabric historically and guaiac wood. As suggests, La Tulipe is a up partnership for me and Housed in a completely from the province of for the packaging, the floral concoction with my brand,” says Victoria redesigned black and gold Shandong. The unisex bottle references the highlights of rhubarb, Beckham. “I had long striped bottle, Extatic perfume comes in a pale brand’s black trench freesia and vetiver. admired Estée Lauder the Tiger Orchid will be sold white glass bottle, etched coat and its iconic details Meanwhile, Mojave Ghost woman, and the powerful exclusively in Harrods. with Etro’s signature with a hand-tied knot balances delicate violet brand that she created, paisley motifs. It is sold in English-woven black with lingering sandalwood so I am excited to offer exclusively in Liberty, for gabardine around the to create a scent that’s both of our customers £118 per 100ml. neck, celebrating the a fresher spin on musk. this makeup range and innovative fabric crafted Flowerhead is inspired play a small part in her by Thomas Burberry over by traditional Indian vision for women.” a century ago. Customers weddings, and Black can customise their Mr. Saffron is a fitting tribute Burberry bottle with up to the spice with hints of to three initials through a rich leather. monogramming service available on Burberry.com and selected stores.
26 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
INDUSTRY REPORT
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NEW FRENCH COMME DES DYSON REVAMPED YSL BEAUTÉ SKINCARE BRAND GARÇONS LAUNCHES FIRST GAZELLI HOUSE UNLEASHES GALLINÉE PARFUM HAIR DRYER SPA IN CHELSEA COLOURED LAUNCHES COLLABORATES Dyson, the British Redesigned in MASCARAS The brainchild of two WITH GRACE technology company collaboration with Melt After four years of French ex-pat friends CODDINGTON best known for their Design Hub and Lázaro research, YSL Beauté living in London, Gallinée Grace Coddington has vacuum cleaners, hand Rosa-Violán Studio, has finally released their is a new innovative line partnered with Comme dryers and bladeless fans, Gazelli House is the patent pending vinyl of skincare products. des Garcons Parfum has entered the world ‘anti-spa’ located on mascara. Available in Marie Drago, a Doctor to create her first of personal grooming. London’s Walton Street. nine bright colours, the in Pharmacy, brings fragrance: Grace by Grace Having invested Spread over three floors, formula allows for a over 15 years’ worth of Coddington. Comme £50 million into its the house comprises higher level of lacquer experience, while Anaïs des Garcons Parfum development, the Dyson basement ‘guest rooms’ pigments than was Lombard Showcasing Creative Director Christian Supersonic hair dryer as opposed to therapy previously possible using a patented prebiotic, Astuguevieille has is powered by Dyson’s rooms, a ground floor traditional methods. This probiotic, and lactic channeled Coddington’s smallest, lightest and retail area, and a Sky means that the colours acid complex, the brand lifelong love of roses and most advanced digital Parlour on the first floor applied to the eyelashes
is the first of its kind cats to develop a perfume motor. Using a fast but with arching skylights. as pure and shiny as to prioritise the skin’s that is as quirky as it is focused airflow, the Speaking about redesign, they are in the tubes. microbiome – that is, our charming. Available in device is both quieter Melt Design Hub revealed, “YSL Beauté captures body’s own protective 50ml and 100ml sizes, than other hair dryers, “The stair was always the rebellious spirit and ecosystem. Using the the perfume bottles and protects the hair going to be a focal point cool caprice of today’s latest microbiological showcase Coddington’s from heat damage. With as it links the guest multi-hued woman, research, Gallinée’s range original drawings and is in four heat settings, three journey through the empowering her search spans creams, cleansers, the shape of a cat. “Over airflow settings, and a House. We’ve created a for constant re-invention,” facemasks and scrubs. time, I’ve experimented cold shot option, the piece of sculpture made said Lloyd Simmonds, The name Gallinée was with everyone else’s Dyson Supersonic allows from folded bronze plate, Creative Director Makeup derived from the patois version of rose, and the user to dry and style it’s almost ribbon-like YSL Beauté. Infused word for ‘hen’, which in even got sidetracked by hair at the same time. floating through the with four natural oils – turn inspired the little egg some others along the The machine is priced at space, and a beguiling argan, carthame, sweet logo of the brand. way. Now I’ve arrived £299 and comes with a mix of the modern and almond, and castor oil back at the point I first 2-year guarantee. traditional” Providing a full – the mascara nourishes started, with rose. Except wellbeing solution, Gazelli and protects the lashes. this time, it’s my rose,” House offers bespoke Brand ambassador Cara said the former Creative treatments and holds Delevingne fronts the Director of American regular events. accompanying campaign. Vogue, Grace Coddington.
27 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
LIMITED EDITIONS
GLOBETROTTER
AS ONE OF THE ONLY REMAINING TRADITIONAL GLOBEMAKERS, BELLERBY & CO’S HANDMADE CREATIONS EVOKE A RARE ROMANTICISM IN THE AGE OF GPS. THERESA HAROLD VISITS THEIR NORTH LONDON STUDIOS, TO MEET THE MAN WITH THE WORLD IN HIS HANDS: PETER BELLERBY
28 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
n paper, it shouldn’t work. A small team Oselling bespoke globes, painstakingly handmade in London and with the price tag to match? Yet, that is the successful business of Bellerby & Co. It all started when Peter Bellerby got the idea to buy a beautiful globe for his father’s 80th birthday. He discovered that the market was limited to either plasticky orbs of inaccuracy, or exquisite antiques that were too fragile for everyday handling. So he decided to make his own. Well, two, to be exact – one for his father and one for himself. Nearly a decade later and Bellerby is making globes for Hollywood films, celebrity homes, and even the Louvre Museum. But the journey from that initial decision to his current success was far from straightforward. The technical challenges involved in placing a map on a sphere – overlapping gores or wonky latitude lines, to name but a few – were plentiful and unforeseen. “I had about four or five eureka moments during this process, which obviously I can’t talk about,” says Bellerby. In fact, so reluctant is he to divulge his globemaking secrets that he has chosen not to apply for patents or copyrights for fear of giving away his methods. Such concern is understandable, given the fact that his breakthroughs were the result of dedicating two years to full- time, unpaid, experiments. Stepping into his studio in Stoke Newington, the atmosphere is serene and –
29 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
LIMITED EDITIONS
Previous page (Left to right): The 80cm Diameter Galileo; Shading the coastline on an 80cm globe, photo by Tom Bunning
This page (Top to bottom): Jon, photo by Stuart Freedman; Gores (pieces of the map), photo by Stuart Freedman; The head painters notebook, photo by Stuart Freedman
Opposite page (Left to right): Peter Bellerby by Ana Santl; Jon making a 36cm Livingstone Desk Globe - laying gores, photo by Ana Santl
You have to measure and re- measure constantly, to make sure you’re on schedule. You can’t just breeze in and start laying down bits of map. It just doesn’t work
30 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
were it not for the shiny Mac He leads me past the printer, Is it more meditative than her, an art college graduate and state-of-the-art Epson printer with its inks that boast a stressful? “A bit of both,” laughs named Alex is turning the ocean – reassuringly timeless. Strips of lifespan of up to 200 years, Bellerby. “You can damage one blue. Meanwhile Jon, the Head paper are pegged to dry above towards the painters. “Once particular gore right at the of Production, is applying strips artisans wielding paintbrushes we’ve printed, we have the end, so we then have to take of map to a globe (goring) – a or a compass. gore which are triangular that off and put another one skill for which it takes nine “We pretty much do everything shapes. Some of them have on. Sometimes that works, months to train. He has been here, [apart from] the fabrication shading added on beforehand sometimes it doesn’t. The thing with Bellerby over four years, of the spheres. The whole thing but on the whole, most of that’s really difficult with this and is one of four globemakers starts with the cartography. them just come out black and is colour matching. [When] one on the team. One of the greatest We have a main base map, white. We then add the ocean of these panels tear, you need challenges for Bellerby is but it changes between a colouring, which is in four or another one made in exactly the finding the right people for 23 cm globe and a 127cm globe, five different washes. It takes same colour palette. And that’s such a specialised job. This which is dramatically more about to day to apply, let it dry, really difficult; I’m useless at year, the company will produce detailed.” Bellerby continues apply, and let it dry. All the that. You have to apply it wet, around 500 globes, and that his tour, explaining the process colouring of the oceans and the and when you wet a panel it requires hiring and training with a quiet pride and an easy continents, that’s done by hand. looks darker than it would do more staff. It’s a significant familiarity with his team that It takes about a week just for anyway. So you have to know investment of both time and comes from working side-by-side the shading.” how much to put on.” He pauses resources on Bellerby’s part. for hours at a time in utmost Watching the artisans at and nods towards a young However, he chooses not to go concentration (“Even if the work, it strikes me as a unique woman painting a globe. “Isis is down the route of government radio is on, when you’re making blend of both the mathematical really good at it.” apprenticeships, preferring to the globes, you don’t hear and the artistic. “You do have A fashion college graduate, avoid that level of bureaucracy. the music.”). to be really methodical about Isis has been with the company Which, for someone that it,” says Bellerby. “You have for nearly three years. Next to confesses to a low boredom to measure and re-measure threshold, makes sense. constantly, to make sure you’re Before launching his artisan on schedule. You can’t just breeze business in 2008, Bellerby in and start laying down bits of founded and managed map. It just doesn’t work.”
31 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
LIMITED EDITIONS
We do a lot of bespoke work. When people commission a globe, they will add on place names. So if you come from a little village in Leicestershire, you can add it on
Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes. add on place names. So if you pounds. We seem to have lost Prior to that, it was a career come from a little village in a lot of manufacturing in the selling television rights to Leicestershire, you can add it on. UK, decades ago, and finding different countries. Although he There are no real rules in globe foundries is difficult.” studied art at O-Level and hails cartography. Obviously, we stick Indeed at times, it does seem from a family of art teachers, with everything politically as as if Bellerby is on a mission to Bellerby admits that he had is defined by the UN, but we go bring back the lost skills of the never considered art as a viable a bit further than that because past. Whether that is the hard- career option. they don’t recognise some earned secrets of how to gore Happily for the art world – states…which is sad.” a globe, or the craftsmanship and indeed, the world of luxury What level of customisation needed to join together pieces in general – Bellerby was able is available? “You can add of wood at competing tensions. to make it work. Today, his illustrations. A lot of people All of which begs the questions: creations can be seen in cultural like to add a little illustration to What is the purpose of a globe institutions such as the Royal where they’ve been on holiday: nowadays? “Inspiration,” Opera House, iconic stores like for instance, a balloon over replies Bellerby, with a smile. This page (Above and below): A 23cm Mini Desk Globe in Harrods, and in private homes. Burma, or a sailing dhow in “Google Maps is great, and I progress, photo by Ana Satl; His clientele ranges from Hong Kong harbor. You can use it every day, but it is purely Isis, painter, glossing a 36cm livingstone desk globe, photo “students, up to people with even add a coat of arms to the functional. It gets you from A to by Tom Bunning their own Wikipedia pages.” meridians, which are all cast B. But a globe…it inspires you to Alongside the core collection in a foundry in Derbyshire.” go there.” of globes with such evocative He spins the solid brass circle names as The Britannia, The around on the worktop to show Galileo, and The Livingstone, me the engraved crest. “This bellerbyandco.com Bellerby & Co also creates one piece cost several thousand personalised globes. “We do a lot of bespoke work. When people commission a globe, they will
32 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
Wealth report
and in turn its entwinement to the recently released Wealth-X Wealth-X with selectiveness,” Winston Luxury Spending Index. Chesterfield, Wealth-X Research The index, as cited in the Director, told CNBC. “When Knight Frank Wealth Report, luxury is exclusive, and better yet, is based on the proportion of recognizably exclusive, it reaches ultra high net worth (UHNW) its greatest desirability.” individuals from each of the Brands should tailor their principal geographic regions who goods — in both design and own at least one of the following purpose — to each region they aim luxury assets: yachts, private jets, to attract. Understanding different collectables (fine wine, antiques, Motivations and natural and social environments art, jewellery and watches) and will help prestige brands retain luxury automobiles worth more behaviours of the their aura of luxury with ultra than US$100,000. The Luxury wealthy consumers. Spending Index, which is equally LUXURY CONSUMER weighted across the four asset Luxury as investment classes, compares the likelihood The year began with turmoil in Winners and losers in luxury During periods of economic of a UHNW individual from a the global stock markets, which “On the spending side, all uncertainty, many wealthy particular region owning a luxury could have implications for the indications are that spending individuals in emerging markets asset against the global average. purchasing decisions of the ultra may be somewhat constrained seek tangible investments such Although wealth in Africa wealthy. “The reality is that the (by world stock market losses), as paintings (particularly the is extremely concentrated volatility and gyrations in the but there are winners and losers,” contemporary, modern and in certain countries, there is equity market may not have a Rambus said. “There are brands impressionist genres), which growing potential for luxury tremendous impact on the ultra that are doing well, based around will appreciate in value, as brands, including high-end wealthy’s pocket books, but it does how and where they are pursuing opposed to luxury clothing auto marques. Despite ongoing impact them psychologically and their customers. To say that and leather accessories. difficult economic conditions emotionally,” Wealth-X President Chinese business is drying up is a The ultra wealthy in the Pacific in many emerging markets, the David Friedman said. “If you think falsity when looking at some of the region have the highest propensity appetite of wealthy collectors about luxury as a category that numbers out of the UK right now.” to own luxury assets, according has not diminished. UHNW is driven by passions, interests There will be a transition in individuals in Africa also show and emotions, while the market where spending is happening, a stronger propensity for private volatility is going to affect how rather than a fundamental jet ownership, at 2.0 times the much money they have to spend, difference in spending. “We global average.... the emotional and psychological are not going to see a massive aspects are the predominant correction in luxury spending factors in driving what they’re per se,” Rambus said. “Certain FIRST- AND SECOND- About Wealth-X going to do.” categories may be challenged, but GENERATION ULTRA Wealth-X is the global authority on wealth intelligence, providing sales, First- and second-generation that is related to the products and WEALTHY INDIVIDUALS marketing, strategy and compliance ultra wealthy individuals have services themselves.” HAVE DIFFERENT solutions to clients in the financial different reactions to loss of Luxury firms should carefully REACTIONS TO LOSS OF services, luxury, not-for-profit and wealth. “The first generation consider their expansion WEALTH education sectors. Its award-winning believes they can make it back,” strategies. “Luxury isn’t really research and thought leadership are Wealth-X CEO Mykolas Rambus luxury when it’s sold everywhere regularly cited by the world’s media said. “The second generation gets to everyone; it loses exclusivity, such as CNBC, Financial Times, Thomson Reuters and BBC. Wealth-X extremely concerned about what has more than 250 staff in ten real or paper loss does to the locations, including Singapore, London lifestyle they’ve been accustomed and New York. to since birth. It’s like pulling out the rug from under them.”
33 Luxury Briefing Issue 187
Brand matters
Georgia Fendley
Luxury is a love letter to Europe
There are many compelling This vision of luxury is agnostic, intelligence and ambition which food or wine it’s hard to identify arguments about the birthplace it’s sometimes unexpected, itself is defined as cosmopolitan, any other location in the world of luxury, every early civilisation it embraces decay as well as enlightened and refined. The with an offering as rich as ours. and every continent can stake a perfection, it is cosmopolitan, Grand Tour has been re-invented At the moment I am reading John claim. The hierarchy of needs and it enjoys freedom of expression for the instagram generation and Hoopers ‘The Italians’, he notes something innate in our human and it can be enjoyed with or it is as influential as it’s ever been. that Italian has thirteen words psyche drives us to define, create without material wealth. It is Whether you’re a fan of fashion, for a coat hanger but none for a and honour the most refined a shared sense of perspective, a design, art, architecture, history, hangover. There are some things expressions of craft. shared appreciation of the rare that cannot be explained or Whatever your view on this and refined and a shared desire to legislated for, as all the best things subject it is undeniable that find a perspective elevated from in life, Luxury defies rule making. today the home of luxury is most the operational issues of daily life, In this context the current definitely Europe. Europe is HQ to legislation, politics and economy. debate about Europe takes on a the worlds greatest luxury brands, For luxury consumers, many different significance, or perhaps Europe educates the worlds most of whom travel to Europe to insignificance, after all whatever inspired creative talents and immerse themselves in this world, Georgia Fendley the outcome of the referendum we here in Europe we champion our borders are irrelevant, they is CEO of Hill and will still be part of Europe in spirit Friends, Founder of and celebrate the refined art of sense a continuity of sensibility Construct and NED and long may that last. craftmanship in all its forms. It is from Bond Street to Berlin, from of Cambridge Satchel Company not only the current state of the Dover Street to the Duomo. They business of luxury which makes recognise the identities of our constructlondon.com its home here, it is also a spirit, cities, the creative, irreverence a history, an attitude which is of London, the timeless chic of harder to pinpoint. It is buried Paris, the bella figura of Rome but deep in the architecture, present they also feel the connections, in our small artisanal businesses, the similarities the themes which felt in the rich landscape and transcend national borders. present in the most innocuous Outside of Europe, ‘Europe’ customs and behaviours. is a by-word for sophistication. In Europe we live with luxury, To visit or want to visit ‘Europe’ it’s impact is hard to escape. is to display a sensitivity,
34 Issue 187 Luxury Briefing
What is your current favourite shop? I love shopping at 202, and also Wolf and Badger, where it’s great to discover and support the new designers in the fashion world. I also love all of the beautiful boutiques in Connaught Village, which are perfect if you are looking for something unique and special. …restaurant? My husband and I love Scotts and Kai, but if I had to pick one, La Petite Masion. The food is exquisite and I’m transported to the Mediterranean the moment I walk in. ... fragrance? Chanel 1932, always.
Where have you received the best customer service? The Bulgari Hotel has exceptional customer service. I love visiting their exquisite spa, where the staff are so friendly and welcoming.
Who or what has been your biggest influence? & One of my biggest influences has to be my Uncle Jimmy [Choo] and my Grandma. They taught me such important values about life, how to believe in yourself and follow your heart. A Q Is beauty or function more important? Both. My shoe philosophy is rooted in the 3 Cs: comfort, character, and craftsmanship. When it comes to shoes, the Lucy Choi combination of beauty and functionality is so important.
What do you do to relax? Founder of Lucy Choi London A trip to Richard Ward for a quick haircut, and I love heading to Urban Retreat in Harrods for a mani and pedi. I’m very lucky to have a one-to-one yoga session once a week, and also amazing reflexology by Jess Appleby who comes to my home.
Where would your ideal holiday be? Dati, because it is so beautiful and remote…No signal!
What is your ideal watch? I’ve been wearing Cartier watches since I was 18. I tend to wear statement pieces – always with diamonds.
And your ideal car? A little secret for you – I can’t drive!
Which luxury company has the best ads? I love Jo Malone’s look and feel, it has such style and elegance.
Do you collect anything or would you like to? Shoes and more shoes…! I also love collecting Smythson’s diaries. Every year I have to have a different colour.
What items are you currently dreaming of buying? I have just given birth to my second son so I am now obsessed with buying gorgeous little things for him.
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