Louis Vuitton and More 伊顿收藏——古董旅行箱系列
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The Eaton Collection SPRING 2013 / TRUNKS Goyard / Moynat / Louis Vuitton and more 伊顿收藏——古董旅行箱系列 步入20世纪,豪华列车如“东方快车” 与横跨大西洋的邮轮之旅成为了风靡一时 的旅行方式,而精致的新型旅行箱也随 之应运而生。近年来,这些独居匠心的纯 手工制作旅行箱逐渐进入了收藏家和投资 者的视野,身价节节上升,具有绝佳的投 资潜力。其中,最受收藏家青睐的当属法 国品牌Goyard, Moynat和Louis Vuit- ton。对于现代旅行箱而言,坚固和轻巧 是其基本要求——太重会增加运输成本, 而太脆弱则会承受不住旅途中的辗转。在 此之前,许多旅行箱都是以猪皮制作的, 附带着圆顶式的箱盖;而后来则改用帆布 制作。 法国顶级箱包制造商如Goyard,Moynat 和Louis Vuitton早在上世纪初已开 始为客户定制旅行箱。这些独具匠心的箱包是欧洲贵族与好莱坞明星旅途中的最 爱,随着东方快车和豪华邮轮访遍世界各地。 Goyard Goyard成立于1792年,其标志性式样就是仿藤编的斜纹交织图案帆布,底色为 黑色或褐色衬白色标牌。在20世纪三十年代,Goyard新开发了宠物用配件及专 为如劳斯莱斯等顶级车款的尾箱而设的旅行箱。奢华的定位使Goyard成为了不 少名人的心头爱:温莎公爵和公爵夫人、摩纳哥的格蕾丝公主和印度的王公贵族 都是其捧场客;而有“时装界的凯撒大帝”之称的卡尔•拉格菲尔德则曾表示只 买Goyard 的箱包。 Moynat Moynat于1849年在巴黎名店区圣•奥诺雷街开业。他们是最早使用东南亚产 天然马来乳胶为旅行箱作防水保护的品牌。在19世纪八十年代,Moynat对柳 条框架的“英式旅行箱”进行了改良,以髹漆的帆布覆盖,再加上皮革配件。 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com 他们还为客户提供个性化的色彩定制,使得箱子的颜色与车辆的颜色完美匹 配。Moynat旅行箱的图案和设计十分多元化,从19世纪六、七十年代的简约纯 白和米白条纹,到八十年代的方格图案,再到20世纪二十年代的黑白波浪纹,随 着时代的风尚不断创新。Moynat箱包的帆布为琥珀色(橘色和黄色的混色), 皮革部分则呈现经过鞣制的黄色和褐色。 Louis Vuitton 路易•威登出生于农民之家,后在巴黎一家箱包制造商当学徒。他设计制作的第 一款旅行箱名为Trianon。这款皮箱重量很轻,以榉木条作框架,外表以灰色粗 麻帆布装饰。这款皮箱深受拿破仑三世之妻欧仁妮皇后的青睐;埃及总督伊斯梅 尔也折服于其魅力之下,曾订购一套保存新鲜水果用的旅行箱。 继Trianon问世之后,路易•威登推出了红条纹图案及黑色米白格子相间图案的 皮箱。但由于它们太受欢迎,很快便为他人剽窃仿造。因此在1897年,路易• 威登正式注册了由字母和四叶形花交织而成的标志并投入使用。上世纪二十年 代,路易之子乔治继承了父亲的创意,引领风气之先, 创造出带隔间和衣架的衣柜式旅行箱以及可折叠成书桌 的旅行箱,这些融入家具元素的箱包以其实用性设计 给旅途中的人们带来不少便利;此外,乔治还设计了 一系列以非洲动物毛皮装饰的皮箱,充满异国风情和狂 野气息,一改旅行箱给人们素朴古板的印象。三十年 代,路易•威登推出了首款软皮袋系列Louis Vuitton Keepall。在二战期间,路易•威登的业务相应有所缩 减。 路易•威登还十分注重个性化设计:他们曾为英女王伊 莉莎白二世制作玩偶匣;上世纪五、六十年代推出年轻 化系列,深受好莱坞影星如碧姬芭铎的喜爱。当时,路 易•威登的第三代传人——乔治之子加斯顿•路易设计 出了适合盛装五瓶香槟的系绳水桶袋。 今天,伊顿收藏有幸能在法国、英国和美国的一些私宅中找到这些尘封近一个世 纪的旅行箱。其中的部分在当年也许只是私人收藏,如今却已成为博物馆收藏级 别的珍品。 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Steamer Trunk / GOYARD. PARIS. CIRCA 1925. 戈雅邮轮衣箱 A sublime Goyard steamer trunk originally for hats with original strap and interior fit- tings. The leather handles have been replaced to match the originals. 戈雅邮轮衣箱,最初为储藏礼帽而设计,至今仍保持着华贵稳重的气质。原装内部 结构,附专为保存帽子而设的系带。真皮提把经替换,但依然保持与原件一致的风 格。 91.4CM × 50.8CM × 70CM. REF GOYARD002 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Wardrobe Trunk / GOYARD. PARIS. CIRCA 1925. 戈雅旅行衣橱箱 (This item has been sold. We do provide sourcing service for similar item upon request. Please contact us for detail. Thank you.) A magnificent Goyard wardrobe trunk with origi- nal interior fittings, drawers one side and hanging space the other. (本品已售出。若有兴趣,我们能为您寻找相似的款式,请使用页面下方邮件地址 联系我们,谢谢!)华美精致的戈雅旅行衣橱箱,保留着原装内饰。开箱后一边是 抽屉,另一边可挂置衣衫与配饰。内部的抽屉与挂衣隔间设计极具原创性与实用 性。 54.5CM × 63.5CM × 107CM. REF GOYARD001 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Trunk with Alcantara Interior / MOYNAT. PARIS. CIRCA 1915. 阿尔坎塔拉面料内饰旅行箱 A wonderful Moynat Trunk with leather trim, brass fittings and interior relined in alcantara. 经典的Moynat旅行箱,箱体外饰真皮镶边,黄铜配件,内衬已换为阿尔坎塔拉面 料,造工精美。 39.5CM × 85CM × 42CM. REF MOYNAT001 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Large Wardrobe Trunk / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1925. 路易威登大号衣箱 A tremendous large scale Louis Vuitton wardrobe trunk with lozine trim and original in- terior fittings. 超大空间的立式挂衣箱,原装内部结构,外部装饰以路易威登传统硬箱的Lozine保 护边。 112CM × 56CM × 66CM. REF lv001 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Damier Steamer Trunk / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1895. 路易威登经典方格纹邮轮衣箱 An outstanding Louis Vuitton large damier steamer trunk in pristine condition with leath- er trim and brass handles. Circa 1895. This trunk is from the estate of William Randolph Hearst the American publishing magnet of the late 1800′s early 1900′s. 这件藏品来自美国传媒大鳄威廉姆.伦道夫.赫斯特上世纪末的私宅中,一百多年来依 然崭新如初。路易威登经典方格花纹,皮革镶边,黄铜提手。 110CM × 57CM × 63CM. REF lv002 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Monogram Cabin Trunk / Initials PL / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1935. 路易威登经典印花图案手提箱(P.L) This wonderful Louis Vuitton monogram cabin trunk comes complete with its original interior trays and fittings. 这件绘有路易威登经典花纹的客舱行李箱保留了原始内饰、托盘和装置,品相完 好。侧面镶有铭牌首字母PL。 89CM × 56CM × 34CM. REF lv004 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Malle Armoire in Monogramme Canvas / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1939. 路易威登经典印花图案挂衣箱 A magnificent ‘Malle Armoire’ in L.V.‘Monogramme’ canvas, the exterior with brass and leather trim, with looped leather handles, the exterior bearing ‘SWD St. Paul, Minn USA’ monogram in red lettering, the interior with vertical hanging rails, with lift-up lid and door. Additional notes: According to experts at Louis Vuitton Heritage in Paris, the lock number indicates this piece was retailed in 1948. LV Monogramme字母印花挂衣箱,外饰黄铜配件、真皮镶边及真皮软提把;箱体印 有原持有者姓名红色字母“SWD St. Paul, Minn USA”;内部设有垂直衣挂、上掀 式顶盖和箱门。备注:经巴黎路易威登专卖店的专家鉴定,锁扣的编号显示该皮箱 出售于1948年。 115CM × 58CM × 51CM. REF lv4880 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Malle Cabine (Cabin Trunk) in Monogramme Canvas / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1920. 路易威登经典印花图案手提箱 A fine ‘Monogramme’ patterned canvas, leather and all-brass trimmed Malle Cabine (cab- in trunk), with leather handles, brass locks and studs, and white and blue identification stripes, bearing monogram ‘F.-S. II’ in white to each end, in remarkable, original condition. LV Monogramme字母印花手提箱,外饰黄铜与真皮镶边、真皮提把、黄铜锁扣与铆 钉,箱体两端印有白色姓名缩写字母“F.-S. II”和蓝白条纹标识,品相完好。 112CM × 33CM × 56CM. REF lv5134 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Cube Trunk in Monogramme Canvas / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1920. 路易威登经典印花图案平顶方形衣箱 A fine example of the desirable ‘Cube’ trunk in classic Vuitton ‘Monogramme’ canvas with all-leather trim and handles, brass corners and locks, the interior in superb original condi- tion with removable trays. With owner’s monogram ‘D.N.T’ to one end. 路易威登经典印花图案平顶方形衣箱,外饰真皮镶边和提把、黄铜包角和锁扣。内 部原装结构,附可移动托盘。箱体一侧印有原持有者姓名缩写字母“D.N.T”。 衣 箱全长24英寸(约60厘米)。 54CM × 60CM × 47CM. REF lv4222 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com ‘Auto Trunk’ Converted into a Gentleman’s Cigar and Drinks Cabinet / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1906. 路易威登车载旅行箱,可作供男士小酌和抽雪茄用的吧台 An exceptional gentleman’s cigar and drinks cabinet, professionally adapted from an origi- nal rare, black canvas Auto trunk by Louis Vuitton, circa 1906, with brass binding, corners, latches and studs, with brass looped handles to each side, incorporating cabinet storage for around 250 cigars, together with a pair of plain, spirit decanters and a pair of tumblers (modern) the interior lined with seasoned Spanish cedar, and the two cigar sections with modern humidifiers fitted, and original interior label retained. On a modern ebonized hardwood display table, with brass detailing and pull-out drawer for preparing drinks. 由罕见的路易威登黑色车载旅行箱改装而成,1906年出品。外饰黄铜包边、包角、 插锁和铆钉,箱体两侧有黄铜扣软提把。内部改装而成的吧台可保存约250支雪茄、 一对细颈玻璃酒瓶、一对平底酒杯(现代出品)和西班牙雪松木制雪茄盒,两侧均 附保湿设备;内部保留原装标牌。箱底相连乌木色实木底座,黄铜包角,附带侍酒 用的浅抽屉。 75CM × 98CM × 31CM. REF lv5164 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com Extremely Rare, All-Brass ‘Explorer’s Suitcase’ / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1910. 极罕见路易威登“探险家”系列镀黄铜手提箱 An extremely rare, large suitcase by Louis Vuitton, circa 1910, hermetically sealed and completely covered on the exterior with brass sheeting, with brass slats, large and small LV studs, brass corners, latches and lock, and a leather handle. These cases were known as 'Explorer's' cases, due to the fact the outer material had to be durable enough to survive travelling to inhospitable climates, and survive heavy use. The interior is all original and is calico-lined, and bears original orange label which reads 'Paris 70 Champs-Elysees 149 New Bond St, London Nice Cannes Vichy #81086'. Lock number: 051066. 极为罕见的LV大号手提箱,1910年出品。箱体外部完全由铜箔覆盖,密封性强; 板条、大小铆钉、包角、插销及锁扣均为黄铜制作,提把为真皮。此款手提箱之所 以被称作“探险家提箱”,是因为其外壳物料坚固耐用,能承受旅途跋涉和适应各 种极端气候。内部为原装白色帆布衬里,附原装标牌,上书:“Paris 70 Champs- Elysees 149 New Bond St, London Nice Cannes Vichy #81086”。锁扣编号 为:051066。 74CM × 23CM × 46CM. REF lv5176 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com A pair of Shoes Trunk / LOUIS VUITTON. PARIS. CIRCA 1920. 路易威登鞋箱一对 Louis Vuitton, Paris: a fine example of the desirable small ‘Malle Chaussures’ (Shoe trunk) in the unu- sual orange Vuittonite canvas, with all-leather trim and handles, brass corners and locks, the interior completely and sympathetically relined in red, with lift out trays for shoes, in superb original condition. Louis Vuitton, Paris: a superb and rare ‘Malle Chaussures’ (shoe trunk) in L.V. ‘Monogramme’ fabric with all brass and leather trim. Bearing monogram ‘S.Mac.D’ within a white circle with black and red circle . The interior completely and sympathetically relined with trays for shoes. 其一:罕见的橘色Vuittonite帆布面小号鞋 箱,镶边及提把均为真皮制作,包角及锁扣 则以黄铜打造。内部全为红色衬里,设有可 取出的鞋类保存分格。法国1920年代出品, 品相极优。 其二:罕见的LV Monogramme字母印花面 鞋箱,真皮镶边,黄铜固定条,法国1920年 代出品。箱体印有白、黑、红圆圈标识,内 有字母缩写“S.Mac.D”。 内部全为红色衬 里,设有鞋类保存分格。 76CM × 38CM × 48CM. REF lv4680 90CM × 50CM × 39CM. REF lv4859 EMAIL [email protected] WEBSITE www.eatoncollection.com.