THE POWER of STYLE Tom Ford on Fashion and Fatherhood Sold Exclusively in Louis Vuitton Stores and on Louisvuitton.Com
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THE POWER OF STYLE tom ford on fashion and fatherhood Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores and on louisvuitton.com. om .c cartier New Collection TANK MC ASPORTINGLIFE! 1-800-441-4488 Hermes.com A NDREW LAUREN F ILMMAKER FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS AND MADE TO MEASURE INQUIRIES: 888.475.7674 A NDRER WALPHL AULAURERENN,F.COMILMMAKER NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS HOUSTON CHICAGO PALM BEACH BAL HARBOUR EAST HAMPTON Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance Our promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics. From personalized suits to entire wardrobes. 1.855.44.ZEGNA | zegna.com a sporting life Nick Compton, English National Cricketer 2 Sav i le Row, London 816 Madison Avenue, New York kentandcurwen.us.com ONLY AT PAUL STUART PAULSTUART.COM Available at Macy’s and macys.com Armanibeauty.com SEPTEMBER 2013 MEN’S STYLE 28 EDITOR’S LETTER 32 CONTRIBUTORS 34 COLUMNISTS on Patience 37 THE WSJ. FIVE The five hottest items from the runways. 124 STILL LIFE Robert Evans The Hollywood producer shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Lisa Eisner What’s News. 43 The Rise of Mid-Century Cocktails Dedon’s Do-Good Mission in the Philippines John Baldessari Debuts in Russia 45 The Bay Area’s Glam Social Club Ecoalf’s 100-Percent Recycled Clothing Line De Young Museum Showcases Bulgari Gems 46 Exfoliation for Men Culinary Courses at Venice’s Epicurean School Tod’s Clubby Milan Boutique Houses a New Line 47 Electric Supercars from Ferrari, Porsche & McLaren A Film Celebrating Formula One’s Glory Days 48 Fall’s Eye-Catching Photo Books New Accessories From Venerable Menswear Brands 50 Blum & Poe Gallery Opens in New York and Tokyo 52 Q&As With Three Top Menswear Designers ON THE COVER Tom Ford in his own design. Photography by Sølve Sundsbø. THIS PAGE Photography by Gregory Harris. Styling by Tony Irvine. Louis Vuitton coat, DKNY turtleneck, Jil Sander 80 pants, Michael Kors boot, Prada bag and Sermoneta gloves. For details see Sources, page 122. 800-457-TODS 110 116 65 The Exchange. 59 MARKET REPORT 68 THE SHIFT Made in Japan 74 COLLECT IT Ahead of the Pack The next generation of Italian-style William Christenberry Carry out a plan for great style this tailors hails from the other side A limited-edition copy of the fall with these key new pieces. of the world. photographer’s portfolio reveals Photography by Jarren Vink By Tom Downey his technical genius and abiding Photography by Yoko Takahashi friendship with a curatorial family. 65 TRACKED The Winklevosses By Christopher Ross The twin brothers are funding innova- 72 THE DESIGNER The Discreet tive start-ups that aim to transform how Charm of Tomas Maier 76 RENEGADE The Business we shop, invest and spend. As creative director of Bottega of Fashion By Christopher Ross Veneta, Tomas Maier has parlayed How Imran Amed became fashion’s Photography by Kava Gorna under-the-radar luxury into a most sought-after digital expert billion-dollar business. in luxury. By Molly Young By Meenal Mistry GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and culture. Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www .subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @WSJMag. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW MOORE; GORNAKAVA 90 59 96 men’s style 80 STREET SMART 100 FLYING HIGH 110 THE WORLD’S MOST A series of topcoats transforms a Hark back to flight’s golden era by GLAMOROUS HOTEL walk through the concrete jungle upgrading to first-class accessories. Manhattan’s famously discreet into an urbane adventure. Photography by Maciek Kobielski Carlyle hotel has retained the Photography by Gregory Harris Styling by David Farber same sophisticated charm since Styling by Tony Irvine it was a favorite haunt of 106 HOLY VEZZOLI Frank Sinatra and the Kennedys. 90 THE FORD FACTOR This fall, artist Francesco Vezzoli By Alexandra Wolfe As his global fashion empire is hit- debuts what might be his most Photography by Andrew Moore ting its stride, the designer takes monumental work yet at New York’s on his next big role: fatherhood. MoMA PS1. 116 GIANNI AGNELLI, THE By Jason Gay By Derek Blasberg GODFATHER OF STYLE Photography by Sølve Sundsbø Photography by Domingo Milella Italian industrialist Gianni Agnelli, one of the most stylish men of the 96 FOSSIL FUEL 20th century, possessed an elegance Hiroshi Sugimoto’s photographs that remains inimitable. and artworks are consumed By Rich Cohen with the passage of time—and inspired by his obsessive collection of artifacts. By Elisa Lipsky-Karasz Photography by Adrian Gaut CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SØLVE SUNDSBØ, TOM FORD IN HIS OWN DESIGN; JARREN VINK; ADRIAN GAUT, RALPH LAUREN BACKPACK. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 122. editor’s letter A FEW GOOD MEN ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS LOOK SHARP Anubis straightening his tie, wears Zegna couture, while Bast wears Agnona—both from Stefano Pilati’s debut collections. HEN JAY-Z RELEASED a song this summer Agnelli, the international jet-setter who ran Fiat and just for kicks, reserved a private jet to showcase a first- simply called “Tom Ford,” the rapper personified chic throughout his glamorous life. His class cabin’s worth of accessories. And our monthly was acknowledging what a cultural icon oft-mimicked fashion tricks—which broke sartorial Columnists feature tackles the topic of patience, surely this month’s cover subject has become. rules in the most casually elegant way—influenced this season’s most in-demand accessory. Naturally, Axl WWhen Ford left Gucci Group almost 10 years ago, many generations of style-obsessed men, including his Rose was one of the first people we approached—but yslbeautyus.com thought his fashion career was over. But he came back grandson, Lapo Elkann, who has become a fixture alas, he had no patience for us. with a vengeance and, today, leads his eponymous on best-dressed lists. In another nostalgic romp, we fashion brand with more than 80 stores, a new men’s check in to the Carlyle, New York’s grand residential grooming line and a clientele that, like Jay-Z, longs to hotel whose halls have hosted luminaries and legends bring back the Concorde. The designer opens up about for more than 80 years, from repeat guest John F. his newest role—first-time father—in a candid inter- Kennedy to industry titans Barry Diller and Brad Grey, view with WSJ. contributing editor Jason Gay, who is both of whom now call the storied hotel home. Kristina O’Neill also a new dad. With the days growing shorter and chillier, we’ve [email protected] This issue highlights another style icon, Gianni photographed the season’s most elegant coats and, Instagram: kristina_oneill NEW - PARFUM INTENSE 28 wsj. magazine Available at Macy’s, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Sephora Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz publishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore Coordinator Molly Dahl sEnior Editor Megan Conway ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber prEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany, publishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green Michael W. Miller Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal art dirECtor Tanya Moskowitz Michael F. Rooney vp global MarkEting Nina Lawrence photo Editor Damian Prado hEad of digital advErtising and intEgration Romy Newman assoCiatE Editor Christopher Ross vp stratEgy and opErations Evan Chadakoff vp MultiMEdia salEs Christina Babbits, Copy ChiEf Minju Pak Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch produCtion dirECtor Scott White vp vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo vp ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor vp intEgratEd MarkEting solutions Michal Shapira ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes Junior dEsignEr Dina Ravvin ExECutivE dirECtor, wsJ CustoM studios Randa Stephan dirECtor, EvEnts & proMotion Sara Shenasky assistant photo Editor Hope Brimelow CrEativE dirECtor Bret Hansen ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar fashion assistants Katie Quinn Murphy, Sam Pape wEb Editors Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 39, September 2013 Men’s Style, Copyright 2013, Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, Jacqui Getty, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction Joshua Levine, J.J. Martin, Meenal Mistry, Anita Sarsidi in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Contributing spECial proJECts dirECtor Andrea Oliveri Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, spECial thanks Tenzin Wild please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.