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28 EDITOR’S LETTER 32 CONTRIBUTORS 34 COLUMNISTS on Patience 37 THE WSJ. FIVE The five hottest items from the runways. 124 STILL LIFE Robert Evans The Hollywood producer shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Lisa Eisner

What’s News.

43 The Rise of Mid-Century Cocktails Dedon’s Do-Good Mission in the Philippines John Baldessari Debuts in Russia

45 The Bay Area’s Glam Social Club Ecoalf’s 100-Percent Recycled Clothing Line De Young Museum Showcases Gems

46 Exfoliation for Men Culinary Courses at ’s Epicurean School Tod’s Clubby Boutique Houses a New Line

47 Electric Supercars from , Porsche & McLaren A Film Celebrating Formula One’s Glory Days

48 Fall’s Eye-Catching Photo Books New Accessories From Venerable Menswear Brands

50 Blum & Poe Gallery Opens in New York and

52 Q&As With Three Top Menswear Designers

ON THE COVER Tom Ford in his own design. Photography by Sølve Sundsbø. THIS PAGE Photography by Gregory Harris. Styling by Tony Irvine. Louis Vuitton coat, DKNY turtleneck, Jil Sander 80 pants, boot, bag and Sermoneta gloves. For details see Sources, page 122.

TRACKED 65 59 The Exchange.

Ahead of the Pack of the Ahead MARKET REPORT REPORT MARKET we shop, invest and spend. and invest we shop, how to transform aim that start-ups tive innova funding are brothers twin The pieces. new key these with fall this style for great aplan out Carry Photography by Kava Gorna Kava by Photography ByRoss Christopher Vink Jarren by Photography The Winklevosses The

- 72 Yoko by Takahashi Photography

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Charm of Tomas Maier Charm Discreet The DESIGNER THE billion-dollar business. a into luxury under-the-radar parlayed has Maier Tomas Veneta, Bottega of director creative As of the world. the of side other the from hails tailors Italian-style of generation next The By Molly Young Molly By Tom Downey By THE SHIFT Made in Japan in Made SHIFT THE and Instagram @WSJMag. Instagram and and, culture; and books ideas, in best the REVIEW, not-at-work life; your to DUTY, OFF aguide Includes culture. and GET WSJ.GET SATURDAY of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www .subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter Twitter on us Follow 1-888-681-9216 www or WSJ. Magazine. .subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. monthly the course, of 116 A Saturday-only subscription to gives a weekly fix of smart style style smart of fix aweekly gives Journal Street Wall The to subscription ASaturday-only

76 74

of Fashion William Christenberry William IT COLLECT in luxury. in expert digital sought-after most fashion’s became Amed Imran How friendship with a curatorial family. acuratorial with friendship abiding and genius technical his reveals portfolio photographer’s the of copy A limited-edition By Meenal Mistry Meenal By By Christopher ByRoss Christopher RENEGADE RENEGADE The Business Business The

110 65

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW MOORE; KAVA GORNA

800-457-TODS 90

59 96 men’s style

80 STREET SMART 100 FLYING HIGH 110 THE WORLD’S MOST A series of topcoats transforms a Hark back to flight’s golden era by GLAMOROUS HOTEL walk through the concrete jungle upgrading to first-class accessories. ’s famously discreet into an urbane adventure. Photography by Maciek Kobielski Carlyle hotel has retained the Photography by Gregory Harris Styling by David Farber same sophisticated charm since Styling by Tony Irvine it was a favorite haunt of 106 HOLY VEZZOLI Frank Sinatra and the Kennedys. 90 THE FORD FACTOR This fall, artist Francesco Vezzoli By Alexandra Wolfe As his global fashion empire is hit- debuts what might be his most Photography by Andrew Moore ting its stride, the designer takes monumental work yet at New York’s on his next big role: fatherhood. MoMA PS1. 116 GIANNI , THE By Jason Gay By Derek Blasberg GODFATHER OF STYLE Photography by Sølve Sundsbø Photography by Domingo Milella Italian industrialist , one of the most stylish men of the 96 FOSSIL FUEL 20th century, possessed an elegance Hiroshi Sugimoto’s photographs that remains inimitable. and artworks are consumed By Rich Cohen with the passage of time—and inspired by his obsessive collection of artifacts. By Elisa Lipsky-Karasz Photography by Adrian Gaut CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SØLVE SUNDSBØ, TOM FORD IN HIS OWN DESIGN; JARREN VINK; ADRIAN GAUT, BACKPACK. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 122. editor’s letter A FEW GOOD MEN ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

LOOK SHARP Anubis straightening his tie, wears Zegna couture, while Bast wears Agnona—both from Stefano Pilati’s debut collections.

HEN JAY-Z RELEASED a song this summer Agnelli, the international jet-setter who ran and just for kicks, reserved a private jet to showcase a first- simply called “Tom Ford,” the rapper personified chic throughout his glamorous life. His class cabin’s worth of accessories. And our monthly was acknowledging what a cultural icon oft-mimicked fashion tricks—which broke sartorial Columnists feature tackles the topic of patience, surely this month’s cover subject has become. rules in the most casually elegant way—influenced this season’s most in-demand accessory. Naturally, Axl WWhen Ford left Group almost 10 years ago, many generations of style-obsessed men, including his Rose was one of the first people we approached—but yslbeautyus.com thought his fashion career was over. But he came back grandson, Lapo Elkann, who has become a fixture alas, he had no patience for us. with a vengeance and, today, leads his eponymous on best-dressed lists. In another nostalgic romp, we fashion brand with more than 80 stores, a new men’s check in to the Carlyle, New York’s grand residential grooming line and a clientele that, like Jay-Z, longs to hotel whose halls have hosted luminaries and legends bring back the Concorde. The designer opens up about for more than 80 years, from repeat guest John F. his newest role—first-time father—in a candid inter- Kennedy to industry titans Barry Diller and Brad Grey, view with WSJ. contributing editor Jason Gay, who is both of whom now call the storied hotel home. Kristina O’Neill also a new dad. With the days growing shorter and chillier, we’ve [email protected] This issue highlights another style icon, Gianni photographed the season’s most elegant coats and, Instagram: kristina_oneill NEW - PARFUM INTENSE

28 wsj. magazine Available at Macy’s, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Sephora Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill

CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger

ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen

Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher

fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz publishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore Coordinator Molly Dahl

sEnior Editor Megan Conway ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber prEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany, publishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green Michael W. Miller Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal art dirECtor Tanya Moskowitz Michael F. Rooney vp global MarkEting Nina Lawrence photo Editor Damian Prado hEad of digital advErtising and intEgration Romy Newman assoCiatE Editor Christopher Ross vp stratEgy and opErations Evan Chadakoff vp MultiMEdia salEs Christina Babbits, Copy ChiEf Minju Pak Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch produCtion dirECtor Scott White vp vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo vp ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor vp intEgratEd MarkEting solutions Michal Shapira ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes Junior dEsignEr Dina Ravvin ExECutivE dirECtor, wsJ CustoM studios Randa Stephan dirECtor, EvEnts & proMotion Sara Shenasky assistant photo Editor Hope Brimelow CrEativE dirECtor Bret Hansen ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar

fashion assistants Katie Quinn Murphy, Sam Pape

wEb Editors Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh

Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 39, September 2013 Men’s Style, Copyright 2013, Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, Jacqui Getty, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction Joshua Levine, J.J. Martin, Meenal Mistry, Anita Sarsidi in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Contributing spECial proJECts dirECtor Andrea Oliveri Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, spECial thanks Tenzin Wild please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

30 wsj. magazine

0913B_WSJ_Masthead_02.indd 30 8/6/13 12:46 PM 08062013114919 0913B_WSJ_Contribs_03.indd 32 32 choose from, Eisnereasilysettled onherfavorite: “Imean,acannon from John Wayne? How doyou top that?” For many longtime residents ofNew York City, The Carlylehotel isthesortofstoried institution thatevokes the items curated byEvans andhispersonal butler, AlanSelka,Eisner says, “It’s really acabinet ofcuriosities. away, anditsometimesfeltthehousewas liketheonlytimeIleft to have breakfast attheCarlyle. Myfather right, withEisner)for Still Life was acolorfuljourneybackto oldHollywood withoneofits livinglegends. Of house andwould lookoutside; suddenlytheUpper East Sidehadbecome thishotspot,andeverybodywas Wolfe soughtrefuge uptown and found thescene attheCarlyletransformed: “Icamped outatmy parent’s The wholehouseislikethat—Idon’tknow how theypicked.” Despite theimpressive range oftchotchkes to For artistandphotographer LisaEisner, capturing themeaningful mementos ofproducer RobertEvans (at personal memories. Wall StreetJournal reporter Alexandra Wolfe isnoexception: “Igrew uptwo blocks beautiful. Modelsandactors were everywhere; itwas totally butyou surreal. Itwas likebeinginL.A., loved theoatmealthere andwould talk aboutitnonstop.” Duringtheblackout after Hurricane Sandy, “I liketo thinkofmyself assomeonewhodresses pretty well,” when says Gay“but (left), AnT SØLve S the ford factor p. 90 factor ford the gregory hA street smart p. 80 smart street dreamscape. Using avariety offun-housemirrors, theduocreated distortions ofthe and intelligent, richandgood-looking. He’s you everything want to be. It’s disgusting.” collaborated withFord for years, hestillfindshimselfin awe ofthedesigner. “It’s always you are inTom Ford’s airspace, you can’t helpbutfeel pretty schlubby.” WhileSundsbø has as writer Jason Gay andphotographer Sølve Sundsbø experienced whileproducing thecover as photographer Gregory Harrisandstylist Tony Irvineexperienced whileworking onthe objects.” Reynoldsjokes, “Ihave never felt sofat,thinortall onashoot!” challenge was to create thesamedynamic—to draw ananimated visualspiritfrom inanimate effect.” Oftheunconventional inspiration, Reynoldssays, “The goal andsubsequent arrived, Ibegan to experiment; Iwanted thelightingto bewatery andlanguid to addto the accessories asanhomage to legendary photographer André Kertész. “Ihave always been story. Ford’s signature styleandhyper attention to detail were immediately apparent to Gay. shooting thestill-life accessories story became anamusing foray into afashionablytwisted wearing two coats, gloves andahat.” Despite theheat,Irvinekepthiseye ononecoat in wsj. five p. 37 five wsj. Sundsbø says. “Tom Ford issomeoneyou want to be around: He’s smartandfunny, charming For photographer Anthony Cotsifas andhisfrequent collaborator, stylistMichaelReynolds, Few designers today embodythefashionrock-star persona better thanTom Ford does, move. The ,Matthew Bell,was from Liverpool sohadverylittle experience withsuch recalls theintensity ofshootingfall’s finest coats onthesteps oftheNew York PublicLibrary men’s fallouterwear story inthemidst of arecord-breaking Julyheatwave. Harris(farleft) Shooting clothesoutofseasonisawell-known occupational hazard offashionphotography, particular, “A great winter coat isamustfor everyman’s wardrobe. Iloved theBalenciaga!” heat andhumidity, buthedidamazinglywell; notasinglecomplaint from himdespite intimidating to work withsomeonewhodirects, shoots, stylesanddesigns. Hecan doallofit,” in nearlytriple-digittemperatures: “The heatwas absolutely oppressive, you could barely inspired byKertész’s distortion series,” Cotsifas explains. (farleft) “Whenthemirrors 08072013133846 the world’s most glamorous hotel p. 110 hotel glamorous most world’s the hony AL und happened to beon76th andMadison.” co ex still life: robert evans p. 124 evans robert life: still SbØ &j Approved withwarnings rr A TSI ndr LISA e IS f AS &Tony IrvI wo A AS &MI IS on gAy ner L ch fe AeL reyno

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top row, from left: courtesy sØlve sundsbØ; jason gay. second row: mark seliger. third row, from left: yanik wagner; courtesy of michael reynolds. fourth row: courtesy of lisa eisner. fifth row, from left: sloan laurits; scott trindle soapbox THE COLUMNISTS WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Patience.

RICKY SCOTT JUSTINE GERHARD TORY YOKO GERVA IS CAMPBELL EVA NS STEIDL BURCH ONO

“I’m the least patient “Tattooing taught me “Given the opportu- “Throughout my 45 “Patience was instilled “There was one thing person I know. I suppose to be patient. Before I nity to stake out a spot years in publishing, I in me at an early age. both my husband, John, if you’re talking about got into tattooing, I had waiting for something learned that you really My father was one of and I didn’t know about the bigger picture, the attention span of exciting, I can conjure have to be patient, the most patient people each other until we got nurturing something a gerbil. I was classic up quite a high level of because it always pays I’ve ever known. When together: how totally like my work on a script, ADHD: I would start a patience. The reward off when you wait until I would rush things, my mercurial we were. John then I do have patience drawing, get halfway is so good. I once did the last minute for the mother would always was mercurially loud, in the long term, but through it, get frus- a shoot staking out a highest quality the say, ‘Tomorrow is a new and I was mercurially day-to-day, no. If I walk trated with it and ditch stretch of Costa Rican artist can deliver. I like day.’ And my own family silent. We were a match. into a shop, and there’s it. I had a really hard beach waiting for jag- to finish things, I want life has absolutely made John and I felt that we a queue of one person, time finishing things. uars. It was about three to have the books out, me more patient—you were like people in an I’ll come back. Life’s too With tattooing, when in the morning, and I but I reduce my speed have to be when you’re H.G. Wells story. Two short. I’m not impatient you start something, was having one of those nearly to zero to avoid raising three boys. Since people who are walk- that a tree’s not growing you can’t stop halfway desperate, sleepy, awful making mistakes. I’m I’m generally patient, it ing so fast that nobody fast enough, but through—you’re com- moments when you’ve kind of a hybrid with helps people around me else can see them. The if I want to plant a tree, mitted. You’re doing a sat in the dark for hours two engines. One is full and keeps everything lonely ones, who laugh then that shop needs to really technical draw- doing nothing but stay- of speed, and one is tak- on an even keel—which and throw kisses to each be open to sell me that ing on a surface that has ing awake. I had to close ing the energy from the is especially helpful other in the mirror. For acorn right now. feelings and emotion, my eyes for a bit, but I brakes. It is sometimes when we’re preparing people like us, a patient And I’m always early. and you’re actually thought I better have very hard for me to be for fashion week. As a is a sick person in a If I’m meeting someone, hurting it while draw- another quick check with patient—especially with company, we’re also very hospital. Have patience whether it’s an impor- ing on it. I don’t think I the camera. I saw this artists who are quite patient in our approach. and you’ll be sick. When tant meeting or just would have the patience bright speck in the dis- old, which I have a lot We’re not in a rush, and you’re flying, let yourself something social, I’m to complete the fine art- tance—it was a jaguar. It of—because I know that we’re not afraid to say keep flying. Don’t stop. 15 minutes early. So if works that I make now just kept coming, getting one day maybe it’ll be no. In fact, we say no to A word like ‘patience’ they’re one minute late, if I hadn’t been tattoo- bigger and bigger until too late to have their many opportunities that will only make you stop they are 16 minutes ing for so long. Patience it went completely out work released. But we come our way. In 2008, flying and fall—wings late in terms of how can imply waiting for of focus and actually have to accept that we we wanted to open a and all.” annoyed I am. I don’t something to happen, touched my tent. A big are human beings. So I Madison Avenue store know an excuse good or enduring, but it never male jaguar—the Elvis don’t drink alcohol; and found a location but, enough not to be on feels like that to me. of jaguars. He must have I don’t smoke cigarettes; after some consider- time. Death is the only When you’re tattooing, known I was there; I just I go to bed early; I don’t ation, decided that the thing that gets someone you can’t go any faster don’t think he cared. go to bars; I don’t take space wasn’t right for back into my good than you’re going. He had been eating any drugs. I just hope us, and we would keep books for being late. There’s no rush. turtles and mating down there is someone up in looking. Shortly after Where is he? He’s dead? It’s more meditative at the beach, so he just the clouds who holds we made the decision, He’s definitely dead? than anything.” didn’t give a damn. That his hand above me, giv- Lehman Brothers col- Okay… fine.” was the kind of moment ing me a long lifetime to lapsed. Our willingness that only comes from finish everything.” to be patient and wait having waited a long turned out to be time and been patient.” a blessing.” Gervais is a comedian, writer, Campbell operates and owns the Ono is an artist and musician. producer and actor. His show Saved Tattoo parlor in Brook­ Evans is a wildlife camera­ Steidl is the founder and Her new album, Take Me Derek premieres in the U.S. lyn. His fine art has been shown woman for the BBC and publisher of the book publishing Burch is a fashion designer to the Land of Hell, is out on Netflix this month. in galleries around the world. National Geographic. company Steidl. and CEO. this month.

34 wsj. magazine necessities the wsj. five september 2013

the right stuff Take a closer look at the pieces that dominated the season. From the perfect watch to a rugged boot, there’s no distorting that they are worth the investment.

photography by anthony cotsifas set design by michael reynolds

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

THE WATCH THAT BROKE ALL THE RULES, REBORN. IN 1972, THE ORIGINAL ROYAL OAK SHOCKED THE WATCHMAKING WORLD AS THE FIRST HAUTE HOROLOGY SPORTS WATCH TO TREAT STEEL AS A PRECIOUS METAL. TODAY THE NEW ROYAL OAK COLLECTION STAYS TRUE TO THE SAME PRINCIPLES SET OUT IN LE BRASSUS ALL THOSE YEARS AGO: “BODY OF STEEL, HEART OF GOLD”.

OVER 130 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL CRAFT, MASTERY AND FINE DETAILING LIE INSIDE THIS ICONIC MODERN EXTERIOR; THE PURPOSEFUL ROYAL OAK ARCHITECTURE NOW EXPRESSED IN 41MM DIAMETER. FROM AVANT-GARDE TO ICON.

1. the bottega veneta document case ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL. SELFWINDING This crocodile rendition is a strong argument for working in style. MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807 NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858 BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM wsj. magazine 37

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2. the heRmÈs boot 3. the caRtieR watch Take a hike off the beaten path with these luxe lug-soled lace-ups. Steal a few minutes with a classic chronograph in stainless steel.

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0913B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_02.indd 38 8/5/13 11:55 AM 0913B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_02.indd 39 8/5/13 11:56 AM 08052013105951 08052013105951 the wsj. five

4. the LOUis vUittON DUffeL 5. the gUCCi jaCKet Make traveling an art with this bag—a collaboration between designer A peacoat trimmed with Persian lamb makes a bold break from convention. Kim Jones and British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman. For details see Sources, page 122.

40 wsj. magaziNe

0913B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_03.indd 40 8/6/13 1:11 PM 0913B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_03.indd 41 8/6/13 1:11 PM 08062013133758 08062013133758 the world of culture & style what’s news. september 2013

IN THE DRINK Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby in the 1956 musical comedy High Society.

flashback THE 1950s COCKTAIL BOOM Long relegated to kitschy menus and dusty bar carts, mid-century mixed drinks—think paper umbrellas and crème de menthe—are making a surprising comeback in top cocktail lounges across America.

BY CHRISTOPHER ROSS

MONG THE COCKTAIL cognoscenti, the 1950s fun, a bit of a reaction against the pre-Prohibition of crème de menthe and cognac—with fresh mint are spoken of as a kind of mixological era trend,” says Eben Freeman, an elder statesman leaves, vanilla-infused maple syrup and Armagnac. Dark Ages: Bland, mass-produced vodka of Gotham’s haute mixology world, who helped raise His refashioned tropical Mai Tai—defanged back in became the spirit of choice; powdered mixes drinking standards behind the bar at the restaurants the tiki-craze days with grenadine and canned pine- Areplaced fresh-squeezed juices; and kitschy paper WD-50 and Tailor. As the general manager at Michael apple juice—is a spare, bracing mixture of lime, rum umbrellas accentuated artificial liqueurs of garish White’s new ’50s-inspired Tribeca supper club, the and homemade orgeat, an almond-based syrup. hues. So it’s no surprise that the cocktail renaissance Butterfly, Freeman is revamping the approach to At Houston’s Anvil Bar & Refuge, the crème de of the last decade began with bartenders rewinding Eisenhower-era drinks. He applies voguish, advanced menthe frappe gets a splash of trendy Kina L’Avion all the way back to the 1890s and 1910s—the age of rye techniques—milk-punch clarification, citrus sealed D’Or, a quinine-inspired aperitif, while the Gerald Sazeracs and gin martinis, when careful methodolo- by Cryovac—to the neon-green Grasshopper and the in Seattle rejuvenates the staid Mule with gies and quality ingredients were par for the course. brandy Old Fashioned. Demand for the drinks has spice-infused vodka, fresh lime and house-made Now, against all odds, mid-century tipples are been “insane,” according to Freeman. “We’re strug- ginger syrup. The real test of these reinventions, making a comeback at buzzy new restaurants and top gling to keep up.” says Freeman, will be how readily older generations cocktail bars across the country. The same bartenders Thomas Waugh, another of New York’s top bartend- accept them. If his father—who still prefers mix to that started the craft-cocktail craze are applying their ers, has been producing similarly spirited revisions real lemon juice—likes the Butterfly whiskey sour he rigorous, modern techniques to 1950s-era concoc- at Carbone, the new red-sauce joint in Greenwich makes, he’ll consider his recipe a success.

MGM/THE MGM/THE KOBAL COLLECTION tions. “I wanted to do something brighter and more Village. He has updated the Stinger—typically a duo For more on this story >

wsj. magazine 43 WHAT’S NEWS

HAPPY HOUR hot property Five updated 1950’s-era cocktails from Manhattan supper club the THE CALIFORNIA CLUB Butter fly made modern and scrump- tious by bartender Eben Freeman. SILICON VALLEY’S VIRTUAL MASTERMINDS have created a real-world destination: The Battery, a members-only social club in San Francisco founded by tech power couple Michael and Xochi Birch of social-networking site Bebo. Starting this fall, patrons will be encouraged to exchange ideas salon-style over wine from the 600-label � GRASSHOPPER cellar. To create the space, architecture firm Fee Munson Ebert overhauled the façade of the city’s landmark 1907 Freeman corrects this historically oversweet Musto Plaza building, a onetime marble factory in Jackson Square. Residential designer Ken Fulk took charge drink with liqueurs of the 60,000-square-foot interior, opting for poppy colors and eclectic details in rooms like the casual 717B derived from real mint restaurant and the maritime-themed Barbary Coast Library. While a penthouse and two rooftop suites (part of a REUSE, RECYCLE, WEAR and cacao beans (instead of the artificial versions), public 14-room boutique hotel housed within the space) feature modern details like transparent walls, the private Discarded plastic bottles, old fishing while a clarification Musto Bar evokes Deco-style continental glamour. “The space should feel exciting and energizing, but somehow nets, even coffee grinds—these are the process keeps the dairy’s familiar, too—like you’ve dropped into the cool kid’s house,” says Fulk. “There isn’t anything in San Francisco like materials that Spanish brand Ecoalf texture light. DEDON’S ERGONOMIC it.” The club has already locked in its first hush-hush 100 members; membership will be capped at 1,200. Think transmutes into clothing and accessories FEDRO the Soho House for the fleece-friendly California set. —Nora Zelevansky made entirely from recycled materials. � BRANDY OLD- ROCKING CHAIR Sold at a Madrid flagship and at several FASHIONED premier department stores globally, To reform this brandy- based Wisconsin classic, Ecoalf recently joined forces with Apple Freeman doses the spirit for a line of MacBook Pro accessories. with an oleo saccharum— —Megan Conway a sugar base that’s been vacuum-sealed with essential oils of citrus and cherry. PASSION PROJECT � VODKA MARTINI In a twist on the traditional mixture of vodka, vermouth and CHAIR LIFT olives, Freeman infuses Stolichnaya with raw Dedon is best known for producing sculptural poolside chairs and lounges. But under slate from Red Hook’s Brooklyn Slate Company founder Bobby Dekeyser, the outdoor furniture company has undertaken a do-good to impart a salty minerality. mission that goes far beyond the eco-friendly synthetic fibers for which it’s famous. In the past four years, Dekeyser has helped rehouse more than 500 trash scavengers � HIGHBALL Even the fratty Jack and living on Cebu—the Philippine island where Coke can’t escape revision Dedon’s main factory is located—in a village with the Butterfly’s so- called Highball, wherein called Compostela, which was partly built the soda is house-smoked over cherrywood chips by residents who hand-wove walls from and complex Michter’s rye replaces the one-note Dedon’s durable weatherproof fiber. Many Tennessee whiskey. have been able to translate those skills into on displ ay working for the company, which employs � RUSTY NAIL GEM SHOW Freeman’s take on this over 2,000 citizens of the local region, and typically hair-raising drink employs an provides free transportation, meals and This fall at San Francisco’s de aged, more sophisticated version of Drambuie membership to a cooperative bank for Young Museum, Bulgari presents and smoky mezcal and employees. “The people here are survivors,” its first-ever U.S. museum show. reposada tequila in place of the usual Scotch. says Dekeyser. —C.R. “We looked at the great years, (DETAIL), 2013 COURTESY OF NADINE JOHNSON. FOLLOWING PAGE: CLOCKWISE FROM when the house really cemented its identity,” says Martin EIGHT SOUPS Chapman, who curated “The BILLBOARD HIT Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & On September 21, timed to coincide with the fifth Moscow Biennale, the Garage Center Beyond 1950–1990” (September BATTERY for Contemporary Culture—helmed by art maven Dasha Zhukova—will unveil the first POWER The 21–February 17). One hundred Green Room and fifty classic pieces are on exhibition in Russia of work by American artist John Baldessari. The series of paintings, is accessed called 1+1=1, reinterprets masters—Magritte, Malevich, Manet—by taking fragments by a revolving view, like a mid-’60s coral and bookcase and from paintings and pairing them with famous text of Baldessari’s choosing. On the painted a emerald serpenti bracelet (above) patented shade Biennale’s opening weekend, Garage will hang never-before-seen billboards by the artist of green. and baubles that belonged to TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF ECOALF; COURTESY OF BULGARI; JOHN BEDELL PHOTOGRAPHY (like the detail of 2013’s Eight Soups, pictured left) in the capital’s Gorky Park. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ILLUSTRATIONS BYSTEPHEN GUILLETE JOSEPH BURKS/DEDON; JOHNOF COURTESY THE BALDESSARI, (MIDCENTURY); BUTTERFLY OF COURTESY DEDON; Elizabeth Taylor.

44 wsj. magazine

0913B_WSJ_What'sNews_pg2&3_03.indd 44 8/7/13 12:45 PM  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news

the beauty of innovation Slough love electric feel now “Exfoliation is exfoliation,” says London-based dermatologist Listen carefuLLy to the newest, costliest, most V12 powerplant paired with an electric motor charged Dr. Marko Lens of the polishing pro- technologically out-there supercars and you’ll hear by energy returned from both the brakes and from the new timbre of automotive supremacy: the whirr of excess torque created by the gas engine. Unlike the cess designed to remove superficial electricity. Over the coming months, dealerships from Porsche or McLaren, it doesn’t have an electric-only layers of skin, which, according to Shanghai to Silicon Valley will receive a trio of exotic mode, which would hush the brand’s signature wail. Lens, is just as important for men as hybrid models from manufacturers Porsche, McLaren Silence, it seems, is a line Ferrari won’t cross. “Can and Ferrari. Supercars are plugging in—and not just you imagine a car with this kind of shape, with those for women when it comes to maintain- to score eco-points. aerodynamics, moving at a low speed without ing a healthy complexion. Between Arguably the most mechanically complex of the the sound of the engine?” asks the brand’s technical mechanical formulas that remove new wave of hybrids is the built-from-scratch Porsche director, Roberto Fedeli. “I don’t think it would be debris with crystals, seeds or finely 918 Spyder. The plug-in roadster derives its sub- possible. Nor do I think it would be fair.” three-second, zero-to-60 acceleration by pairing a Indeed, not every car fanatic is thrilled by the move screen time ground shells, and creams and lotions 4.6-liter V8 gas engine with two electric motors— toward electric. According to three-time Indy 500 win- that use fruit enzymes or acids to which together produce an impressive 887-system ner Dario Franchitti, the extra machinery (and pounds) racing dayS break the link between cells, there’s horsepower. The car is a rolling showcase of the kind that electric cars require can get in the way of a Formula One in the ’70s was more than one way to scrub up. “Guys of luxury automotive technology that may trickle driver’s interaction with the vehicle. “Look, for most down to less expensive Porsches in coming years: people, clever electronics will help drivers access more are not so keen on exfoliation,” admits a time when sex was safe and push-button boost, four-wheel steering and, most of the performance that these cars are capable of. My driving was dangerous—or such Dr. Lens. But these three products— tellingly, an “E-power” mode that allows it to drive good friend ordered up all three of [the new supercars], which will brighten male faces—might on batteries alone for up to 18 miles. and I can understand the attraction,” says Franchitti. is the maxim, anyway, at the Similarly eco-minded is the aerodynamic McLaren “I guess I’m a purist, though, because all this has me change that. —Celia Ellenberg heart of Ron Howard’s latest P1, a carbon-fiber creation that can be driven on elec- hunting for the old stuff—minimal and lightweight.” movie, Rush, out September tric alone for 6 miles, emission free. When the driver’s Driving a supercar in silence? It is a whole new foot isn’t pushing the gas pedal, energy is collected thing. Just as having a hybrid and going insanely 27. “That line was a pretty from its compact but powerful twin-turbocharged fast are no longer mutually exclusive. “Sure, you good touchstone for us,” says 3.8-liter V8; it’s returned via an electric motor to elimi- could put it into the grid of Le Mans,” says Dr. Frank the director. Written by Peter worth the trip nate turbo lag and smooth out gear changes. Walliser, the 918 Spyder’s chief engineer, of the new Ferrari’s electric offering, the LaFerrari, doesn’t Porsche. “But on Sunday morning you can drive it Morgan, of Frost/Nixon fame, plug in at all. Rather, its calling card is a gas-powered to the bakery, too.” —Jesse Will Rush is based on the true story dinner in venice of two rival F1 drivers—the uxury “In the 1980s, the Epicurean School was for demonstrations,” says Daniele Turco, execu- uxury English James Hunt and Ce, a l tive chef at the Gritti Palace hotel in Venice. “Now, students want to roll up their sleeves Ce, a l Austria’s Niki Lauda, played by •

ala McLarEn P1 ala and participate.” On the heels of a recently completed 15-month, $55-million restoration, With top speeds of 217 mph, mclaren’s Chris Hemsworth and Daniel the luxury property—once the home of the Doge of Venice—is again offering visitors the 903-horsepower p1 includes a huge Brühl, respectively—whose retractable rear wing that creates 1,300 chance to enroll in half- or three-day courses at its cooking school. Shop for seasonal pounds of down-force, making the car— disparate driving styles and Courtesy of porsChe Cars north Courtesy of porsChe Cars north which retails for $1.15 million—more from left: aesop- purifying facial exfoliating paste; ingredients at the nearby Rialto Market (one of the oldest in ); cook Venetian classics stable the faster it goes. intense competition helped kyoku for men exfoliating facial scrub; Zelens laren; hool at the gritti p laren; like stewed squid and small appetizers known as cicchetti; and wash it down with ombre— hool at the gritti p create what’s widely considered micro-refiner Bi-active exfoliator. for details see CC sC CC sC sources, page 122. la serenissima’s word for a well-deserved glass of wine. luxurycollection.com/gritti the most exciting period in tures tures Curean F1’s 63-year-history. Alastair Curean pi pi piC piC Caldwell, who managed Hunt’s inside job PorschE 918 sPYDEr • McLaren team during the ’70s, niversal niversal

niversal niversal as its name suggests, porsche will produce u u only 918 of the spyder model, which retails served as the primary technical

Known for craftsmanship and a cultivated air k/ k/ opposite: Courtesy of m of luxury, Italian leather-goods company opposite: Courtesy of m for $845,000 and features 887 horsepower derived from its three engines. adviser on set. When it came to od’s Tod’s needn’t look much further than its own od’s history for inspiration. The brand recently filming the races, Howard says opened a flagship boutique in Milan (both he lucked out. “We thought we’d pictures) designed by Florentine architect have to rely heavily on replicas Michele Bonan that takes its design cues— Ce; Courtesy of t nut-wood floors, mid-century furniture, Ce; Courtesy of t and CGI, but a few collectors eni abstract artwork—from Tod’s elegant offices eni of real ’70s Formula One race on nearby Corso Venezia. The store is the cars agreed to let us film their exclusive home of Tod’s new Sartorial Touch • LafErrari hotel, v line, a collection of bags and custom-made hotel, v each of the 499 hand-laid carbon fiber, prized automobiles, but only if tion

tion 963-horsepower models that ferrari is

shoes created from unique hand-treated Ca; Courtesy of ferrari; Jaap BuitendiJ C Ca; Courtesy of ferrari; Jaap BuitendiJ leathers. Expect similar stores soon in , C building in maranello, italy—alongside they could drive them—so we its f1 race cars—will sell for $1.4 million. this page: f. martin ramin (slough love); Courtesy of the e Colle ameri this page: f. martin ramin (slough love); Courtesy of the e Colle Tokyo and Shanghai. —David Coggins ameri let them.” —Brekke Fletcher

46 wsj. magazine

0913B_WSJ_What'sNews_Pg4&5_04.indd 46 8/8/13 11:25 AM 0913B_WSJ_What'sNews_Pg4&5_03.indd 47 8/7/13 4:25 PM 08082013102652 Approved with warnings 08072013152626 WHAT’S NEWS

BUY THE BOOK 1 FINE & FIELD OF HANDY Modern accessories from some of menswear’s VISION most venerable names. The season’s best photographic tomes feature Hef’s centerfolds, the Boss in the throes of center- stage glory and three of fashion’s most memorable faces.

1 AMBER, GUINEVERE & KATE PHOTOGRAPHED BY CRAIG MCDEAN “The Billy Reid brand is 1993–2005 (Rizzoli) is a tribute to anchored in my Southern roots, so it made perfect sense to , infuse this signature style with and , Coach’s iconic past,” says Billy with interviews by Glenn O’Brien. Reid of his limited-edition partnership with Coach—a double dose of Americana 2 HANS FEURER (Damiani) is the first featuring luxurious totes and monograph by the celebrated more for the Southern dandy. fashion photographer, containing 175 images—like the 1983 Kenzo campaign that sealed Iman’s career— with art direction by Fabien Baron.

5

A capsule collection by preppy majordomo Tommy Hilfiger and the emerging California shoemaker George Esquivel features 900 numbered pairs of brogues and loafers with graphic takes on classic detailing.

3 HUGH HEFNER’S PLAYBOY (Taschen) is a limited-edition series of six vol- 2 umes, complete with racy centerfolds and articles by , Ian Fleming, Ray Bradbury and Norman Mailer.

4 BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN IN FOCUS 1980–2012 (Turn the Page Publishing) captures 32 years of the icon’s concerts, Personal Style by John from small venues to stadium shows. Lobb marks a rare foray into accessories design by the 5 DOUGLAS KIRKLAND: A LIFE IN esteemed English shoemaker, PICTURES (Glitterati Incorporated) with stately ties, glove liners contains half a century of celebrity and leather gloves. 4 portraiture, like his 1969 portrait For details

of Raquel Welch. 3 see Sources, page 122. COURTESY OF TASCHEN (PLAYBOY); COURTESY OF COACH; PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (BOOKS, ESQUIVEL, LOBB)

48 WSJ. MAGAZINE

0913B_WSJ_What'sNews_Pg6_02.indd 48 8/6/13 11:17 AM  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news TIMEWALKER VOYAGER UTC tokyo pop SPECIAL EDITION Tim Blum and Jeff Poe launched Takashi Murakami’s career in America. Now they are opening two new galleries—one in New York, the other in Tokyo.

by claire martin photography by Jesse chehak

top of tHe Heap Clockwise from top: doB & Me: on the red Mound of the dead (2013), by takashi murakami; Miss spring (2012), by Yoshitomo nara; Law of Multitude (1975), by kishio suga, part of the mono-ha movement.

Poe represents in both Los Angeles and Asia, their curatorial style is unique. “Rather than the type of gallerist who looks at the present state of things and comes up with a strategy for navigating through, they behave more like artists, putting out their own art mavericks Blum, left, and Poe antennas and rushing headlong with the signals they at their eponymous catch,” says the artist. gallery in Culver One signal Blum and Poe recently picked up is a City, California. largely forgotten Japanese art movement from the Crete, 33 x 258 x 349 in.;

’60s and ’70s called Mono-ha, which is comprised on

mostly of large sculptures made from natural and urakami, untreated industrial materials like stones, rope and n 1999, a pair of young gallerists named Tim first-ever show in Japan.) Blum and Poe struck up a wooden logs. In 2012, they tapped a Mono-ha scholar Blum and Jeff Poe applied for a solo booth at the friendship, and a couple of years later, when Blum was to put together a book on the movement and to curate prestigious Art Basel fair in Switzerland. Their ready to move back to California, he approached Poe a show that included every major artist involved plan was to debut the work of a Japanese artist with the idea of starting a gallery of their own. At the with it—and, nearly singlehandedly, introduced an Wherever the journey takes you, the second time zone synchronized Iand friend whose sculptures and paintings blended time, the art market was in a shambles and galleries unknown genre to North America. “It was an integrity with Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) lets you keep track of all anime, pop and classical painting—the likes of which everywhere were going belly up. “I thought he was move,” Michael Darling, chief curator of the Museum

, 1975/2012, PlastiC sheet, stone, C your global interests. Automatic movement. Second time zone the art establishment had yet to see. When they crazy,” Poe remembers. But then he lost his job; Blum of Contemporary Art, Chicago, says of the show. “It’s C on Canvas mounted on Board, 39 3/8 x 39 3/8 in. li

arrived at the fair, the art world was flabbergasted. & Poe opened not long after. material they’ve loved and believed in for a long time, rY with 24-hour display and day/night indication. 42 mm stainless-steel titude Many saw the pieces as fluff and some thought Blum In the beginning, the gallery put on exhibitions of and they felt like it was time to do it.” aC case with satin-finished bezel. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture C on Canvas, 89 3/8 x 71 5/8 in.; takashi m

and Poe were “out of our minds, like insane, strange, older established artists like Robert Mapplethorpe The expansion into Japan and New York will enable , 2013 li in Le Locle, Switzerland. rY

deluded idiots,” Blum says. Still, they sold everything. and Paul McCarthy, and emerging ones such as the gallery to grow with its artists. “As we become ead Law Law of MuL And as public understanding of the art grew, their Sharon Lockhart and Sam Durant. Later, after their mid-career dealers, we’re getting involved in connois- aC careers took off alongside that of the artist they had success with Murakami, they began introducing other seurship and pushing our artists forward in different , 2012,

helped launch: Takashi Murakami. Japanese artists to the West, like Yoshitomo Nara, ways,” Poe explains. The first show at the Tokyo gal- oe Blum and Poe first met in the early ’90s, when Poe, gradually helping to establish the contemporary lery will likely be a group exhibition of Blum & Poe’s pring a film-school dropout, musician and sometime surfer, Japanese art market. Now, after nearly 20 years in the Japanese artists, who comprise roughly 20 percent of Miss s was working at a gallery with Blum’s girlfriend. Blum business, they’re planning to open a gallery in Tokyo the gallery’s stable. They also plan to introduce their had a degree from UCLA, a mop of curly brown hair this December and another in Manhattan in 2014. American artists to Japan, among them stars like Y of Blum & P and a job running a gallery and a small museum in Despite the growth of their business, Blum, now Mark Grotjahn and Tim Hawkinson. “Tokyo is one of Tokyo. (It was also around this time that Blum first 49, and Poe, 52, have retained their original, indi- the great cities of the world,” Blum says. “We’re hop- ourtes B & Me: on the red Mound of the d lo Ckwise from toP: kishio suga, C Yoshitomo nara, all C bonded with Murakami, after attending the artist’s vidualist sensibility. To Murakami, whom Blum & ing to provide an extra reason for people to go there.” do MONTBLANC.COM

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0913B_WSJ_WN_Blum+Poe_02.indd 50 8/6/13 12:38 PM 08062013114920 Approved with warnings WHAT’S NEWS

Style might make the man, but so do his favorite gadgets, grooming products and getaways. Here, three of menswear’s most compelling designers— Homme’s Kris Van Assche; Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones; and Massimiliano Giornetti of Salvatore Ferragamo— reveal the sources of their inspiration, both at home and abroad. WITH WSJ.

4. Who is your favorite artist? I was very taken with the recent John Chamberlain show at the Guggenheim Museum in New York. 1 The accumulation of all the huge chromatic metal pieces made for a strong impression. 3 5. What are your essen- 4 tial grooming products? I use the Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser by Aēsop 2

and the Dior Homme Dermo ERTO VALLARTA

System for skin care. NY; RESOURCE, ALINARI/ART ETTEMANN/CORBIS;

1. How would you describe your decorating style? I think of it as warmly minimal—a very 5 personal mix of ’50s furniture (Pierre Jeanneret lounger, at top), ceramics and lighting (Gino Sarfatti) with more KRIS VAN contemporary pieces and photographs. 2. Who is your favorite florist? A Parisian florist named Odorantes, who ASSCHE specializes in flowers arranged by scent. ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, DIOR HOMME 3. Do you have any pets? Two three-year-old Burmese cats— According to fashion lore, it was a Madonna brother and sister—called Diego and Frida. concert that first inspired 37-year-old They make for a wonderful mess with Belgian designer Kris Van Assche to pursue tons of colorful toys all over my apartment. a career in clothes. Studying the perform- er’s –designed stage costumes—including her infamously pneumatic cone bra—a then-teenage Van 6 Assche decided to attend Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. After graduating in 1998, he moved to Paris, where he worked under Hedi Slimane on what was then Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme. Soon after, he followed the designer to Dior Homme, where they worked together closely to pioneer the slim style that became Slimane’s trademark. 7 Van Assche left in 2004 to launch his namesake label (which he still designs), 6. What hotel have you visited recently and loved? returning to take the reins at Dior Homme The Hacienda San Angel in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It’s a after Slimane—now artistic director of monastery transformed into a luxury hotel by an elderly lady Yves Saint Laurent—departed in 2007. who spends all of her free time rescuing abandoned dogs. His sleek sartorial sensibility is matched 7. What has been your favorite discovery? by his taste for Ron Arad furniture, and Peru. The country’s nature is extremely diverse, and in fittingly for this committed minimalist, isolated places, women still wear their traditional colorful COURTESY OF AESOP; COURTESY OF DIOR HOMME; ©DANIELE FALLETTA/ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/CORBIS; COURTESY OF HACIENDA SAN ANGEL IN PU his favorite hotel is a former monastery. > dresses. It’s a truly wonderful culture shock. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF DIOR HOMME; COURTESY OF ODORANTES, PARIS; GETTY IMAGES; JOHN CHAMBERLAIN UNTITLED, 1965 ©B

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0913B_WSJ_WN_DesignerQandA_02.indd 52 8/6/13 10:30 AM  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news INTRODUCING A CAMERA AS

1. What is your favorite 4. What is your favorite hometown REVOLUTIONARY hotel? restaurant? I don’t have one in particular, The Wolseley in London. AS YOU ARE. but I like the Fasano hotels in Brazil (pictured below), 5. What is your favorite destination? the China Club in Beijing and I really like the sense of mystery that the Molori Safari Lodge in surrounds the Himalayas and the kingdom The revolutionary Olympus the Madikwe Game Reserve of Bhutan. They feel exotic, almost from in South Africa. another time. On our trip to Bhutan, we OM-D E-M1 does more than just discovered that it’s the only place in the 2. What is your preferred world where snow leopards and tigers cross capture amazing photos, it lets you stationary? paths. We incorporated that into the [fall/ tell powerful stories from anywhere. Personalized stationary from winter 2013] collection with these scary, Smythson. cute prints by Jake and Dinos Chapman. With its new 16MP Image Sensor

3. What is your favorite with Dual Autofocus feature, a museum? 1/8000s mechanical shutter, and Natural History Museum in London. 10fps sequential shooting, the 4 E-M1 delivers blazingly fast speeds. With 5-Axis in-body Image 1 Stabilization providing blur-free Kim Jones images with every lens, you’ll be style director, louis vuitton inspired to shoot like a pro. And

Kim Jones, the 39-year-old in charge of it’s all packaged in a light and Louis Vuitton’s menswear line, consid- durable magnesium alloy body, ers himself a citizen of the world—with good reason: He grew up traveling so you can take incredible images with his hydrologist father through anywhere you go. Move into a new Botswana, the Amazon and Egypt; world. www.getolympus.com/em1 attended Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in his native England; and later designed for storied British 3 brand Dunhill before joining Paris-based Louis Vuitton in 2011. Jones has also designed for Uniqlo, Mulberry, and Alexander McQueen. He 2 maintains a global view and often treks 5 to far-flung destinations. (His travel 6 essentials include an iPod, currently loaded with R.E.M.’s music.) One recent trip took him to Bhutan and Nepal to gather inspiration for the house’s fall/ winter 2013 collection, which featured snow leopard prints by the artists One of the smallest and lightest Jake and Dinos Chapman on coats and 7 bodies in its class at 17.5 ounces* sweaters; yak felt; and Himalayan stones as buttons. > 8 Built-in Wi-Fi Interactive EVF

10 *E-M1 body only 6. What is your favorite clothing store? Rellik—the best vintage shop in London.

7. Who or what are your fashion icons? I had the chance to be guided in my career by amazing people such as Louise Wilson [of Central Saint Martins] and Alexander McQueen (at left). I also collect vintage clothes from the ’70s to the mid ’90s.

8. What are your travel essentials? An iPod with a ton of music and a Louis Vuitton Keepall.

9. What is your favorite drink? Perrier everywhere I go! Courtesy of rellik, london; getty images; Courtesy of smythson; Courtesy of hotel fasano

9 10. What bands are you listening to now? lo Ckwise from top left: Courtesy of louis vuitton; Courtesy of the wolseley; Courtesy of kim jones; Courtesy of louis vuitton; Courtesy of perrier; firstview; laura levine/ orbis; At the moment I’m listening to R.E.M. a lot. C C Image shot with the OM-D and lenses by Diego Garin Martin

54 wsj. magazine

E-M1

0913B_WSJ_WN_DesignerQandA_02.indd 54 8/6/13 10:30 AM 08062013095719 Approved with warnings WHAT’S NEWS

1. Which artists do you 5. Are you a sports fan? most admire? Ever since I was a child I’ve loved playing Art is a hugely important part tennis. It’s the best way for me to overcome of my life and an essential tension and to unwind; I try to play when- source of inspiration for my ever I have a free moment. My favorite collections. I admire art in all tennis players are Roger Federer and its diverse forms of expres- Maria Sharapova. sion: fine art, architecture, cinema. Anish Kapoor and 6. What is your favorite book? Pierre Soulages (at right) are I read often, and I have lots of books. among my favorites. Their The books I keep on my night table, work is extremely powerful which I happily read again and again, and impactful. are J.D. Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye and Oscar Wilde’s De Profundis. 2. What are your favorite 1 restaurants? Pujol in Mexico City, Le Chateaubriand in Paris, the New York Grill in Tokyo (at right) and the China Club in Hong Kong.

3. Who is your fashion icon? Madame Grès for her grace and 5 her exceptional draping skills.

MASSIMILIANO 4. What was a recent investment piece? GIORNETTI I just bought a new smart CREATIVE DIRECTOR, TV—the BeoVision 11, one of SALVATORE FERRAGAMO the latest models by Bang &

Olufsen. CE, NY; CORBIS IMAGES; COURTESY OF NEW YORK

The son of a Tuscan goldsmith, ELLE CIOCCO; COURTESY OF RICHARD SERRA; COURTESY OF Massimiliano Giornetti began sketching 3 fashion designs when he was just 7 years old. Now 41, his spot at the helm of Salvatore Ferragamo—the Italian luxury brand headquartered in —has 6 kept him close to his childhood roots. After studying foreign language and literature at the University of Florence and attending 2 the Polimoda International Institute of and Marketing—one of the country’s top design schools—Giornetti soon joined Ferragamo, where he’s been for over a decade, rising to his current post as creative director of both men’s and womenswear in 2010. He travels frequently, 8 from Bali to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, relying on Diptyque room sprays to make him feel at home. One souvenir EXCELLENCE DEFINES OUR COMPANY. from his sojourns abroad was an Indian bed 4 so large he had to dismantle it to transport 7 it back home, where it now coexists with his prized possession: ’s first PASSION MAKES IT FLY. black-and-white self-portrait. š 7. Who are your preferred florists? In London I always use Scarlet & Violet (pictured above). In Paris, my favorite florist is Christian Tortu.

8. What museums do you love visiting? 10 I go to museums whenever I can manage it. One of my favor- ites is Louisiana near Copenhagen, not only for its exceptional There’s a difference between a private jet company run by a corporation and one run by people collection but also for its structure. I also love Dia: Beacon in who live for aviation. It’s called passion. We are perfectionists whose passion for flying is only New York (at left) and Hamburger Kunsthalle in Germany. exceeded by our focus on delivering a personal ownership experience. We do it by building 9. What is your essential grooming product? every facet of flying – from aircraft to maintenance, from a world-class operations control Fractional Membership Jet Card Vitamin oil by Joëlle Ciocco. It’s fantastic and can be applied all over, perfect for moisturizing and protecting my skin. center to customized in-flight services – around our family of owners. Call to schedule your 877.703.2348 • flightoptions.com demonstration experience today. 10. What is your favorite gadget? My Bianchi Metropoli bike. It’s perfect for riding around 9 Flight Options and the Flight Options logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Flight Options LLC. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF FERRAGAMO; PIERRE SOULAGES, WALNUT STAIN. 1959 ©CNAC/MNAM/DIST. RMN-GRAND PALAIS/ART RESOUR GRILL TOKYO; COURTESY OF DOVER PUBLICATIONS; COURTESY OF SCARLETT & VIOLETT, LONDON; COURTESY OF BANG & OLUFSEN; COURTESY OF JO Florence! BIANCHI; ©LIPNITZKI/ROGER-VIOLLET/THE IMAGE WORKS

56 WSJ. MAGAZINE

0913B_WSJ_WN_DesignerQandA_03.indd 56 8/7/13 1:26 PM  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. september 2013

ahead of RALPH LAUREN the pack Carry out a plan for great style this fall by choosing one Pink Pony of these key pieces.

photography by Jarren Vink

Pink Pony is Ralph Lauren’s initiative in the fight against cancer. BaCkpaCkers Our mission is to reduce disparities in cancer care guide There’s a whole new galaxy of knapsacks, in medically underserved communities and ensure that satchels and rucksacks out there. Throw on a mountain-worthy two-tone version or tackle the urban wilderness treatment is available at an earlier, more curable stage. with a model in high-tech black.

Top, from left: Collection; Bally; Coach. Second row, from left: Dolce & Gabbana; Gucci. Third row, from left: Twenty-five percent of the purchase price of Pink Pony products Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane; . Fashion Editor: Justin Arroyo will benefit the Pink Pony Fund of the Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation.

To learn more, please visiT wsj. magazine 59 RALPHLAUREN.COM/PINKPONY

0913B_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 59 8/5/13 11:55 AM 08052013105933 market report

Big times A case in rose gold makes for a subtle twist on the traditional timepiece, best paired with a luxe strap in alligator or leather.

Top, from left: Audemars Piguet; Rolex. Second row, from left: Chopard; Vacheron Constantin; David Yurman. Third row, from left: Girard-Perregaux; Glashütte Original; Bulgari.

diverse portfolios Rather than lugging a hefty briefcase around town, lighten up by opting for a sleek document case in suede, calfskin or an exotic skin.

Top, from left: Brunello Cucinelli; Dior Homme; Burberry London. Second row, from left: Giorgio ; Tod’s. Third row, from left: Ermenegildo Zegna; Salvatore Ferragamo; Prada.

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getting the Boot Switch out lace-ups for a pair of ankle boots in your weekday lineup. From a wing tip in hammered leather to a punked-out option with a monk- strap buckle, there’s one for any look.

Top, from left: Jil Sander; Bottega Veneta; Fratelli Rossetti. Second row, from left: ; Gucci; John Varvatos. Third row, from left: Bruno Magli; Dior Homme.

For details see Sources, page 122.

on the 4th floor 646 602 3273 abchome.com carpet & home 62 wsj. magazine

0913B_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 62 8/5/13 11:55 AM 08052013105934 leading the conversation the exchange. september 2013

tracked Beat maker. The Winklevosses Rain maker. The twin brothers are funding a roster of innovative start-ups that aim to transform how we shop, invest and spend.

BY Christopher ross photographY BY kava gorna

The Journey from Startup to Success.

Growing a successful startup is almost as hard as making it in the music world. Seven- time Grammy Award winner will.i.am has done both. Watch as he puts his wisdom to work for a group of innovative entrepreneurs on WSJ Startup of the Year.

Watch All the Episodes On Demand

Visit WSJ.COM/SOTY double vision Cameron, left, and Tyler—former Olympians and Facebook litigants—are trying on new hats with their venture capital firm, Winklevoss Capital.

ven as children, twins Cameron and Tyler bitcoin—which has attracted intense interest and network, one that keeps them keyed in to the sort Winklevoss stood out in a crowd. “People criticism as a form of money that exists beyond the of word-of-mouth tips that might one day yield ven- would always walk up to us and ask the control of governments and central banks—repre- ture capital gold. Cameron was a cofounder of the same three questions,” says Cameron. “Are sents a big risk. “You have to be willing to gamble a high-society party website Guest of a Guest, and mentor / will.i.am eyou identical? Who’s older? And do you get asked bit,” says Tyler. “Entrepreneurs are a special breed. the two have been photographed out on the town global music artist & that all the time?” (The answers: Yes; their par- They make their own fate, but there’s no safety net with celebs like Armie Hammer (who, with the entrepreneur ents have never revealed; and yes.) More recently, if it doesn’t work out.” magic of green-screen compositing, portrayed both their 6-foot-5, 220-pound frames made them prime Entrepreneurship is in their blood: Their father, twins in Fincher’s movie). While Cameron lives in targets to be stopped and asked if they were the born to a family of Penn sylvanian businessmen Manhattan, where their offices are headquartered, twins in David Fincher’s The Social Network, which and coal miners, created an actuarial software Tyler’s home is in Los Angeles—a bicoastal arrange- dramatized their real-life battle with Facebook company that made him a multimillionaire. The ment that aids the hunt for new ventures. cofounder Mark Zuckerberg (they claim he stole brothers—after competing in the 2008 Beijing Their former intensive rowing regimen—train- their idea for the social-networking site when they Olympics in rowing and getting MBAs from Oxford ing 11 and a half months a year, two to three times a were classmates at Harvard). But now, at last, the in 2010—followed a similar path, creating the day—has prepared them well for the demands and 32-year-old brothers are winning fame on their own start-up venture firm Winklevoss Capital. Last unorthodox hours of the start-up world, which often terms: as venture capitalists. year they invested a $1 million stake in SumZero, keeps them at the office well past midnight. But the ©2013 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All rights reserved. 6WSJC2086 Photo credit: Art Streiber/AUGUST 4WM2198 # WSJSOTY The twins made headlines in July when they a social platform for money managers to share lessons gleaned aren’t just physical. “Everyone we announced the creation of the Winklevoss Bitcoin ideas, and led a $750,000 investment in Hukkster, used to compete with was told they’re the best—and Trust, which would operate an exchange-traded an online shopping site that notifies users when they were,” says Tyler. “You have to be stubborn and fund dealing only in the virtual currency of bit- selected items have gone on sale. confident—day in, day out—that you’re the two that SPONSORED BY: coins. Putting their profile and wealth behind The brothers do maintain an active social are going to make it.” >

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0913B_Tracked_02.indd 65 8/6/13 12:36 PM 08062013113711 the exchange tracked 6th 0:006:55 m.m. a.m. place LoremTyler’s ipsum run at the Beijing Olympics in 2008 in Faccum restempore, senis men’s pair rowing. The brothers along the West Side aut fugia dendis es re, vid 9:48 a.m. competed against 14 other boats. Highway. “It’s in my quis ipsanda quam iusdae blood to exercise,” Meeting with Hukkster ventota speditatem he says. cofounders Erica Bell and Katie Finnegan to discuss product features and a new iPhone app. $65M won in their settlement with Facebook: $20 million in cash and $45 million in stock, now worth around $200 million. 3 people using standing desks at the Winklevoss Capital offices. “Sitting is the 9:08 a.m. smoking of our generation,” says Tyler. Taking the subway to their office, a five- minute ride from 96 Cameron’s apartment. songs If it’s nice out, he on Cameron’s “Ultimate Fitness” workout sometimes walks. playlist, heavily populated with electronica. 1 percent of all bitcoins currently in existence are owned by the brothers, a share worth about $11 million. 5 pounds The difference in the twins’ weight. Tyler has always been a few 3:41 p.m. pounds heavier, since they were kids. At Danziger Gallery, surveying new works $300 with gallery owner James Danziger. bet “We’re tiptoeing placed at the Kentucky Derby: into the art world,” Their picks were Frac Daddy, Normandy says Cameron. Invasion and Oxbow. 12 years spent taking piano lessons in their youth. Neither plays much now, though Cameron has taught himself guitar. 1 7:15 p.m. photograph of Kate Moss, Dinner at Lupa from a portfolio of 11 photos jointly with friend David Deshe, president created by Danziger Gallery and Moss. of Vero Water, where they share plates The one hanging in their office of charcuterie, cheese and olives. was taken by Glen Luchford in 1994.

66 wsj. magazine the exchange

the shift discover the new and evolved men’s store at our madison avenue flagship MAde in JAPAn With a shortage of young Neapolitans willing to learn the exquisite art of crafting handmade suits, the next generation of Italian-style tailors hails from the other side of the world.

By Tom Downey PhoTograPhy By yoko Takahashi M CO YS. RNE BA w. dO iN Ew tH S:

suiting up Jackets in the process of being hand-tailored hang in Ciccio’s Tokyo studio. Each typically requires three fittings and starts at $4,500. CES AC iON SH

s I enter the second floor suit-making Japan’s fashion elite that he’s able to charge as much Neapolitan suits will be found only in Japan. FA R shop, the studio’s master tailor—a man or more than the top Neapolitan tailors who regularly It’s no surprise that traditional suit-making dE

called Ciccio, wearing a soft-shouldered, visit Tokyo (more than $4,500 for just a sports jacket). has such a strong presence in Japan. The country Si

subtly pinstriped gray suit—greets me with There are a handful of young Japanese like Ciccio, remains attached to an almost Mad Men–esque iN Aa smile and a casual “buon giorno.” After asking if I’d all under 40, who have aggressively pursued their vision of workday attire for men, with glossy maga- R FO like an espresso, he leads me to a leather couch where passion for fine tailoring to the point of apprenticing zines devoted entirely to men’s suits—most notably I am left to browse dozens of swatches of the finest thousands of miles away at sartorias in Naples, some- a publication called Men’s Ex that, in a typical issue, English and Italian fabrics. Every detail here leads times for years, before returning to Japan to craft covers everything from shoe-polishing techniques me to believe that I’m sitting in a traditional suit- handmade suits in that southern Italian city’s sig- to pairing shirt and tie colors. Back issues of Men’s maker’s atelier in Naples—except that I entered the nature style. Meanwhile, there’s an acute shortage Ex provide the most extensive guide to Naples’s shop from a busy Tokyo street, and the real name of of young Neapolitans willing to take up their city’s lesser-known artisan tailors, surpassing anything the master cutter standing before me is Noriyuki labor-intensive approach to suit-making. Almost available in English—or even in Italian. A year ago, Ueki. As a tailor, he goes by the nickname he earned none possess the skills or the confidence to branch while on a trip to Italy, I often encountered Japanese in Italy. His work—crafting Neapolitan-style suits in out on their own, as Ciccio has done, leading to the travelers at hole-in-the-wall sartorial operations Tokyo and elsewhere in Asia—is so highly regarded by strange possibility that, in a decade or two, the finest on remote backstreets of Naples, including some >

BARNEYS.COM NEw YORk BEvERlY HillS BOStON CHiCAgO lAS vEgAS SAN FRANCiSCO SCOttSdAlE SEAttlE 68 wsj. magazine

0913B_WSJ_Tailoring_03.indd 68 8/6/13 12:33 PM 08062013113750 Advertisement the exchange the shift

the wall street journal magazine the ItalIan job Clockwise from top: Hand-stitching is the hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring; all patterns are cut by hand; ironing a canvas jacket lining; Noriyuki Ueki, aka Ciccio, wearing one of his own suits.

people, places and things worth noting

places I’d learned about only from locals in the age 25, the culture shock was extreme: “The streets to Naples as an apprentice a year after Ciccio; neighborhood. were crowded with cars and people,” he says. “It was Noriyuki Higashi, a 34-year-old who makes suits in What I also discovered on that trip was that most chaos. But it was also more free and flexible than under the Sarto Domenica brand, is so fasci- master cutters and tailors in Naples began learning Japan. Here all things have to be done the one correct nated by Neapolitan suit-making that after returning FLIGHT OPTIONS® their trade at or before the age of 10—during an era way; in Italy each tailor has an original distinctive home from a stint in Naples and taking a day job, he Flight Options® is the second-largest private Shop the Brioni Fall Winter 2013 Collection of post-war Italian poverty when child labor was the style.” He went to work for a Neapolitan tailor and, spends nights and weekends making jackets. Unlike aviation company in the world providing SAINT LAURENT in one of our boutiques. norm—which means that the top tailors there are, at eventually, was allowed to work on everything but every other Neapolitan-style tailor I know of in Japan fractional ownership, membership and the the youngest, in their sixties. Many more, though, are the collars and sleeves, which require the most dex- or Italy, Higashi also does everything by hand and Saint Laurent L17 men’s leather jacket. Avail- New York - Beverly Hills - Costa Mesa 25-hour jet card program options. Call able at Saint Laurent stores. $5,290 Chicago - Bar Harbour - Las Vegas 877.703.2348 for more options. in their seventies or eighties and long retired. Most terous handwork. He wasn’t only learning Italian nothing with a sewing machine. wonder openly whether a tailor who starts learning techniques—he was also absorbing the Italian per- I meet Ciccio and Ono at a pizzeria called Seirinkan YSL.COM BRIONI.COM FLIGHTOPTIONS.COM this craft at the age of 18 or 20 can ever attain the spective on style: “Japanese people look more closely in Tokyo’s Nakameguro neighborhood to discuss the technique necessary to become a true master cutter. than anyone else. We master the small things,” future of Neapolitan style in Japan. (The owner went As I sip my espresso and admire Ciccio’s handmade he says. “But Italians look from afar. Their style is to Naples to study pizza-making, and now makes suits, he tells me his story: He spent four years in his rougher. The whole is cool and it’s beautiful, even if pies as good, perhaps even better, than any of the early twenties working at an Osakan brand called Ring they don’t pay attention to every small detail.” pizzerias I’ve eaten at in Naples.) Ciccio, who’s wear- Jacket, which specializes in a neo-Neapolitan style Wanting to master the cutting of the collar and ing a brown suit he made himself and a white cotton similar to the Italian brand , and soon acquired the sleeve before returning home, he spent two scarf wrapped around his neck, says that he needs his first Neapolitan suit, an Attolini. Founded in 1930, more years apprenticed to another tailor in Naples, to get back to Naples every couple of years in order Attolini almost single-handedly created the mod- Antonio Pascariello, where he acquired more to recapture that city’s distinctive way of seeing. ern Neapolitan style. Virtually every tailor in Naples experience—and his Italian nickname. “I couldn’t “Technically, I’m much better than I ever was,” he has—or at least claims—some direct or indirect remember his Japanese name, so I called him Ciccio,” says. “But the danger is that here in Japan you get so Attolini pedigree. Founder Vincenzo Attolini’s central explains Pascariello. “These young Japanese have a focused on the small things that you lose that bigger discovery was that you could eliminate or reduce most grand passion for tailoring, and they work very hard perspective that Italians have.” DIOR AUCTION of the thick material used to line men’s jackets and at it. For Neapolitans you either start when you’re a Ono nods, folding over a slice of his pizza. “Some- Dior is pleased to announce the 6th annual offer a natural shoulder with little or no padding and child, or it’s very difficult to become a tailor.” times, back here, I feel that my eyes are getting PAUL STUART ZEGNA Dior Auction, an online charity auction a collar that’s flexible and casually elegant rather than When he returned to Japan, Ciccio founded his rotten,” he says. “That I’m losing the ability to see offering elite experiences, luxe trips and stiff or stuffy. For Ciccio, his first Attolini was a -rev own atelier in the fashionable shopping area of what looks right and what looks wrong. That’s some- We believe it possible to express oneself Discover the style intensity of Ermenegildo lavish products with 100% the of the elation: It was soft, light and comfortable to wear. He Aoyama. Six years later, he now employs two full- thing I never felt in Naples.” Ciccio and Ono are both sartorially, with elegance, sophistication— Zegna’s pin-sharp contemporary design and proceeds benefiting Look Good Feel Better, and just a bit of insouciant good humor— the innovative winter ZegnaSilk, a pure desperately wanted to know how to make a garment time workers, each of whom dreams of following trying to explain something that’s difficult to hold on an organization dedicated to helping women with such qualities himself. So Ciccio would come in his footsteps by making a journey to Naples to to a world away from its origins: the Neapolitan sense no matter the situation. Register at carded silk with a cashmere feel enriched cope with the appearance related effects of to the Ring Jacket workshop alone on weekends to apprentice there. Ciccio’s business has expanded of effortless, instinctive and uncultivated style. Their paulstuart75years.com for a chance to win with new mélanges to epitomize this cancer and its treatment. a monthly grand prize in our 75th season’s wardrobe. refine his own jacket-making technique, something he across Asia, and he now travels to Seoul to meet dedication has allowed them to master physical Anniversary Sweepstakes October 1 – 10 | Bid. Win. Give Back. couldn’t do during normal business hours. “My dream Korean clients. techniques. Now, as they mature, the question is At 35, Ciccio is the most well-known of the young whether they can also cultivate what Ciccio identi- PAULSTUART.COM ZEGNA.COM DIORAUCTION.COM all along,” he tells me, “was to go to Naples and learn from the people who invented this style.” Naples-trained tailors in Japan, but there are others fied as the beauty of authentic Neapolitan tailoring: When Ciccio finally managed to move to Italy at in Tokyo and across the country: Yusiche Ono, 37, went a style all their own. •

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the designer

MAIER FOR LESS Clockwise from far THE DISCREET left: Bottega Veneta ad campaigns by artists , left, CHARM OF and Robert Longo; a Cabat tote bag with the brand’s signature intrecciato weave; the TOMAS MAIER new men’s fragrance; looks from the fall/ As creative director of Bottega Veneta, winter 2013 runways. Maier has parlayed under-the-radar luxury into a billion-dollar business. This fall, Under Maier’s watch, Bottega Veneta’s discreet approach to luxury has struck a chord among the he launches his first fragrance for men. global elite, resulting in the kind of hockey-stick growth more closely associated with Silicon Valley BY MOLLY YOUNG than with the workshops of northeastern Italy. Last year, its sales crossed the $1 billion mark—a nearly 3,000 percent increase since 2001—making it the second-largest brand after Gucci in the (for- merly PPR) luxury portfolio, with over two hundred stores from Manila to Beirut. Maier himself lives off the beaten path, in an isolated compound in Palm Beach County. His longtime partner, Andrew Preston, is the cofounder and COO of the swimwear label they run together—called Tomas Maier—which they founded in 1997, independent from Bottega Veneta. It’s no accident that the designer’s “That’s not the price of a Bottega wallet.” 12 proposals over the course of a single day. He did coordinates and side projects place him as far outside It’s not far off, though. And while the cost of a not include images in his brief—“I wouldn’t want to the fashion industry fray as possible: “Some people Bottega Veneta wallet—typically priced in the fast-track a creative person by giving them visuals,” feed off the melee of the fashion world and the circus upper hundreds, though occasionally well exceed- he says. “I write a story—a paragraph, a situation, a of it,” says Matt Tyrnauer, a fashion writer and direc- ing $1,500—might raise eyebrows, the wallet place, an environment—and that’s it. A nose reads tor of the documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor, itself is designed to fly beneath the radar. “I am not between the lines.” Usually, he says, “there are one or who penned an essay for a Bottega Veneta mono- particularly keen on logos,” Maier says, slightly two people who nail it.” TACT MASTER The German-born graph last fall. “Tomas is cut from a different cloth.” understating the matter. (You will not find a logo on The result is a potent scent: spicy and woody, like designer, shot by The designer does not pop up at premieres or parties; anything he designs.) “It’s more interesting to create being enfolded in a leather-jacketed embrace. If the Peter Lindbergh. refused to have his name appended to the label when a product that is ‘signed’ by the way it’s made: by the notion of bottled perfume suggests refined indoor he signed on; and recruits fine artists—Robert Longo, color, materials, design, functionality. That signs the pursuits, Bottega Veneta Pour Homme tweaks the Nan Goldin, Mona Kuhn, Larry Sultan—to shoot his product. That’s how you recognize it— if you need to expectation with its brisk outdoorsy quality; as with campaigns rather than merely rely on the industry’s recognize it.” Maier’s other inventions, it reveals itself in layers OMAS MAIER SITS ON a white chair before a “exactly arranged by nature for its role.” That second Alexander McQueen followed). Maier was then at short list of coveted fashion photographers. He has Discretion, of course, is relative. Maier may not put and at its own pace. After an hour on the skin, notes white table at the Manhattan studio where quality must be native to the region, because Maier Hermès, where he’d spent nine years burnishing a zero interest in cultivating visibility among celebri- logos on his bags, but anyone who’s interested will rec- of pine and juniper surface, as though the wearer had he designs Bottega Veneta collections when is likewise obsessed with the beauty of functional- reputation for minimalism that was as soft-spoken as ties. “I don’t like when actors borrow clothes,” Maier ognize the brand’s signature intrecciato weave at 10 gently daubed himself before stomping through he is visiting the city. There is something ity. Every bag, wallet and pant produced by Bottega it was money-drenched. Like Hermès, Bottega Veneta says—not because he holds any particular contempt paces. You’ve seen it before—picture a lattice piecrust the woods. With its charcoal bottle and leather col- Tstrange about the silent Midtown space that I cannot Veneta is designed to fit a need. Male customers, the had an exacting clientele. It also had a distinctly for fame, but because borrowing reveals an unstyl- shrunken down, tightened and made of leather. If a lar, the scent makes a handsome sibling to Bottega quite place until the designer himself points it out: designer says, are particularly attuned to the ques- Italian heritage, even if its 1966 founding date made ish lack of conviction. “It’s very different to buy your $4,000 handbag is not within reach, the company Veneta’s women’s fragrance, which debuted in 2011 “It doesn’t smell in here,” he says. And yes, that’s it. tion of performance: “Men ask about provenance, it an upstart next to Gucci or Ferragamo. clothes versus borrow them. When you buy clothes, it’s offers intrecciato Kleenex boxes, picture frames and wearing a similar outfit (key difference: a vanilla col- Despite dozens of (white) roses and trays of perfume how something has been treated, how it reacts, what Maier was brought on board as creative director a decision. You’re saying, ‘This looks like me.’ It’s a dif- doggy bowls. These items may be pricey enough to lar instead of a black one). If the men’s version is half bottles—we are here to discuss Bottega Veneta’s they can get out of it,” he says. “Will it last a long time in part to deliver the brand back to its beginnings. In ferent story.” qualify as heirlooms, but they are not meant to be kept as successful as the women’s—both critically and debut men’s scent—the room smells like nothing. without falling apart?” the years prior, Bottega Veneta had struggled to In the spring of 2012, a stand-alone Bottega behind glass. Maier’s clothing is likewise better worn commercially—it should satisfy Maier. This seems a significant accomplishment on a sti- This emphasis on integrity is one of the reasons youth-ify itself by sending teensy zippered mini- Veneta men’s store opened off Fifth Avenue in Man- than collected—a point demonstrated by the fact that Rolling out a fragrance on a Bottega Veneta scale is flingly hot summer day in New York, as well as an apt Tom Ford recruited Maier to lead Bottega Veneta skirts down the runway and hiring Perry Farrell of hattan—a space of almost menacing good taste, with his garments are often more striking in motion than usually a collaborative process, but when asked how expression of the way Maier prefers to impose order in 2001. At the time, Ford had been at the helm of Jane’s Addiction to deejay at parties. It was an awk- suede-covered walls and door handles sheathed in on a hanger. An austere gray suit from last fall’s mens- many members of his team helped develop the scent, on nature’s messy course. “I like restraint,” he says. the Gucci label for seven years while also working ward look for a brand whose reputation was rooted leather. As with his aesthetic, the designer’s retail wear collection is tailored so sharply that it improves Maier looks surprised at the question. It was just him, “I like when things are pared-down. I like the idea of with Gucci Group chief executive Domenico De Sole in time-tested craftsmanship—a look that nearly theory mixes pragmatism and opulence: Displays a wearer’s gait; coats in muted ash-gray flannel shim- he says. No one else. And once he points it out, the less being more.” to aggressively expand the company’s portfolio of bankrupted it. Maier was quick to strip away the ado- are spare and well-labeled, with tags explaining mer as the light distorts their color. alternative seems impossible, considering Maier’s A man of few and carefully chosen words, Maier, brands. After acquiring Yves Saint Laurent in 1999, lescent baubles, command the brand’s production an object’s use, materials and price. After all, “You As with all things Bottega Veneta, the first men’s conviction—and his love of control. “The market,” who is 56, grew up in a town of shady hills at the Bottega Veneta was the next property on Ford’s list resources in Vicenza and impose his ultra-refined don’t want to look at something for 10 minutes and scent was developed according to strict Maier- he says, “will always want you to make a scent that edge of Germany’s Black Forest—a region Henry (Boucheron, Sergio Rossi, , and part- viewpoint on every bag and shoe. Understatement then the guy tells you, ‘This wallet is $1,500,’ and instituted rules. The designer wrote a creative brief, resembles a scent that came before it. But that is not PREVIOUS PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER LINDBERGH. THIS PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER LINDBERGH (S/S 2013); PHOTOGRAPHY James once described as “wonderfully pretty” and nership agreements with Stella McCartney and became a credo. BY ROBERT LONGO (F/W 2010); PRODUCT IMAGES COURTESY OF BOTTEGA VENETA; FIRSTVIEW you fall over backwards,” Maier says. He clarifies: invited a dozen noses to interpret it and received all my customer. That’s not the man I’m catering to.” š

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n 1981, Washington, D.C.’s Middendorf/Lane and Sander Galleries produced 21 copies of a portfolio of works by the photographer William Christenberry, entitled Ten Southern Photographs. IShot between 1978 and 1981 in the small, dusty towns of Hale County, Alabama, the images represent Christenberry’s first foray into shooting large-format stills, which he began exploring with a Deardorff cam- era in 1977. While he initially won acclaim for coaxing profound three-inch-square shots of the American South out of an inexpensive Brownie camera—“perfect little poems,” Walker Evans called them—it was the large-format prints that crystallized Christenberry’s trademark style. The formally composed, emotionally subdued visions of the rural South are rendered in rich colors and flawless detail in the portfolio’s 10 images, which feature a cross-section of Christenberry’s totemic obsessions. In one, an invasive kudzu swallows collect it the entire frame, save for a patch of red soil; in another, a Palmist building in Havana, Alabama—a crumbling edifice Christenberry has returned to many times over the $130,000 portfolio the course of his career—peeks out from behind a copse of trees, as if ashamed of its condition. The last mint copy of a limited-edition set of photographs taken The last complete commercially available copy of by William Christenberry reveals his technical genius and enduring this portfolio is now for sale at the Feroz Galerie in Bonn, Germany, bearing the hefty price tag of friendship with a curatorial family dedicated to sharing his work. $130,000. The vintage-dye transfer prints are exqui- sitely preserved, having never been removed from their green clamshell folio box until now. “There’s a BY Christopher ross definite heightening of technical quality with these photographs,” says Christopher Phillips, curator at the International Center of Photography in New York. “They reward the viewer with more detail, color and tonal nuance.” Christenberry’s skill with color came from years of practice; though his format was unpop- ular among art photographers, he’d used it to create studies for painting, his original metier. While con- temporary and fellow Southerner William Eggleston is often celebrated for pioneering noncommercial color photography, it was Christenberry who introduced William Eggleston to the medium in the early 1960s. The limited-edition portfolio came into the pos- STILL LIFE a 1983 portrait of the photographer by gerd sander. opposite: Christenberry’s Ten Southern Photographs. onn session of a small gallery on the banks of the Rhine via Julian Sander, owner and president of Feroz Galerie, who also happens to be the son of Gerd Sander, is concerned with the craft of photography, Julian photographer’s character. “There are layers of darkness

Z galerie, b Christenberry’s former gallerist in Washington, D.C. argues that the real significance of his family heri- as well as humility and gentleness.”

fero and New York. The initial Sander-Christenberry con- tage goes deeper. “The legacy of August is much more The work of the Alabama-raised artist will be mak- nection was forged in D.C.’s bustling art scene in the about humanity than photography,” he says. “He rec- ing another appearance on European soil later this ’70s (the photographer still lives in the capital today). ognized that all humanity has a foundational value.” month at the Fundación Mapfre in Madrid, with an Gerd—the grandson of August Sander, one of the It’s an idea echoed in the subtleties of Christenberry’s exhibition that coincides with a new monograph pub- most important German photographers of the early work. At first glance, the frank, unblinking images lished by D.A.P—the largest overview of the artist’s 20th century—moved to the States in 1975 to open in Ten Southern Photographs—decrepit cotton gins work to date. The 260-page volume is divided into his own gallery. He soon became one of the city’s pre- and warehouses; humid, people-less landscapes; a 13 sections—each dedicated to a recurring theme in eminent art dealers, alongside Harry Lunn, Jr., who faded five-cent sign on a mottled brick wall—suggest an Christenberry’s works—and covers the range of his together have been credited with helping to create American South in the grip of decay, a provincial past career, from early black-and-white photos of interiors the market for fine-art photography in America. Gerd beyond recovery. But on closer inspection and taken as clearly influenced by Christenberry’s original hero, not only produced the original portfolio in 1981, he a whole with Christenberry’s oeuvre, they exhibit an Evans, to the buildings he returns to annually, includ- also helped Christenberry learn to use the technically underlying strain of hopefulness, even idealism. “He ing the Bar-B-Q Inn and his grandparents’ home in daunting Deardorff camera. was looking at the objects, landscapes and buildings of Alabama. “Though most of the subject material he’s “Julian represents another generation carrying on his home county as signs and symbols of who we are as dealing with goes back to his own childhood, this isn’t the work of preserving and presenting photography to Americans,” says Phillips. “Where we’ve been, where we a personal quest,” says Phillips. “He’s doing a serious, the public,” says Christenberry, now 76. “The Sander are now and where we’re going. This kind of attitude, I long-term reflection on American culture, providing family has been doing this for many, many years.” think, Walker Evans almost invented—the search for a guideposts and points of reference he feels are impor-

portfolio prints photography by jens willebrand william Christenberry, 1980 © 2013 gerd sander, Courtesy of While the artistic tradition passed down via Sander usable past.” It’s a balance, Julian says, reflected in the tant for us not to forget.” •

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0913B_WSJ_Christenberry_02.indd 74 8/7/13 3:21 PM 0913B_WSJ_Christenberry_03.indd 75 8/8/13 11:20 AM 08072013142234 Approved with warnings 08082013102234 Approved with warnings the exchange

n march 2007, while attending a Retail and Lux- engagements and events from New Delhi to Sydney in MASH UP ury Goods Conference at his alma mater, Harvard addition to serving as his site’s editor-in-chief. “the Business of amed, whose site he describes as “kind of Business School, Imran Amed sat on a panel that Though he found the dressing down he got at the fashion is one of a a blog, kind of a b2b included the president of French furniture maker Harvard panel “humiliating,” it prompted him to focus handful of trade journal and IRoche Bobois, the chairman of Lehman Brothers on the digital initiatives of luxury brands. Though he kind of a magazine.” Global and the designer Peter Som. As had bestowed the mantle of “first truly digital luxury puBlications that the discussion wound down, the topic of the Internet brand” on Burberry, he took them to task in February generate in-depth came up. “The moderator asked, ‘What do you think of 2010 for seeming to censor negative tweets during a discussions Facebook? How do you think it’s going to impact the live-stream show. In another, he scolded for not fashion industry?’ ” Amed recalls. “I was sitting clos- understanding the sharing economy of the Internet aBout the industry.” est to him, so I had to answer first.” He responded that when the brand created a beautiful video for its –lazaro hernandez if people were having spirited conversations on social No. 5 perfume, only to shackle it to its own website. His media about Gucci bags or the latest Prada show, it approach to the industry is unfluffy, but never dry. He stood to reason that high-end labels would be com- doesn’t aim to break trade news, like Women’s Wear powerful. “The thing about Imran,” says Standen, “is pelled to join them. In other words, the drawbridge to Daily, but instead to analyze and provide context. that even when he’s critical, he doesn’t come across the castle would need to be lowered so that fashion’s “Imran did a good job of spotting a niche in the as snide or flip. It’s always well-argued.” The post was cloistered royalty could engage the masses. market and recognizing that fashion isn’t just this shared over 5,000 times on various social networks. (A The other panelists disagreed—fiercely. “I got frivolous thing, but that it’s a multibillion-dollar indus- representative for Slimane declined to comment.) ripped apart,” says Amed, who was 31 at the time and, try—and that there were a lot of interesting stories if Amed says that a large portion of his readership having recently left a job at McKinsey & Company, was you approached it from that point of view,” says Dirk doesn’t work in the industry—they’re consumers working as an independent consultant and advisor Standen, editor in chief of style.com. “What he’s done who love fashion and enjoy the site’s insider perspec- to LVMH. “The basic response was, ‘This is luxury. quite well is to get the attention of the executive suite.” tive. Another area of the site’s focus is education. One It’s just not happening.’ ” Afterwards, however, the Indeed, he has many supporters on the commerce of Amed’s earliest posts was the first in a series on moderator, luxury expert Milton Pedraza, approached side of fashion, including Only The Brave Foundation’s how to build a fashion business. It was published in Amed with words of encouragement: “I think you’re on Renzo Rosso; Kering head François-Henri Pinault; and February 2007, but still clocks thousands of reads per to something.” Oscar de la Renta’s Alexander Bolen—all of whom have month. Fashion professors around the world tell him Over six years later, Amed has been proven right sat for lengthy interviews with Amed. “I like anything they use the series as a tool for their classes. “I spend a many times over: Burberry and Dior now battle over that allows me to consume media in an easier way,” lot of time trying to engage those communities,” says Facebook likes; it’s possible to buy a $12,000 Valentino says Bolen, who isn’t shy about admitting that he reads Amed. “I’m regularly speaking at London Business gown on your iPhone and, seconds later, flip through BoF’s daily email newsletter on his phone early in the School and Harvard Business School. They’re the next designer Riccardo Tisci’s personal snap- morning while walking his dog. “It gets people in my generation of leaders in the fashion industry.” shots on Instagram. Most brands stream fashion line of work up to speed on what’s going on.” If Amed succeeds, that next generation will rely shows live for anyone who will watch, and the rise of If Amed has a special talent for attracting that rar- heavily on BoF as a source for industry news. Amed the front-row blogger is old news. The drawbridge is efied audience, it’s his ability to speak the language of likes to talk about his million or so followers (includ- down, even the moat is drying up. both the suits and the creatives in fashion. “He’s not ing his Twitter and Tumblr feeds) as a community. “I don’t want to come off as some kind of futur- the classic profile that you see coming out of consult- “It’s not an audience that we broadcast information ist,” says Amed, in the Canadian accent he’s held on to ing,” says Pierre-Yves Roussel, the LVMH executive to,” he says. “These are people I’ve been in a dialogue despite having lived in London for 14 years. (He grew up who hired Amed as an advisor when he came seek- with since the very first days of BoF. Everyone is giving in Calgary, the son of Indian parents who immigrated ing professional advice after leaving the fast track at us feedback all the time, whether in the comments sec- from East Africa.) “All I knew was that something was McKinsey in 2006. “Business people tend to think very tion, in emails or on Twitter.” happening, and it would be exciting to be a part of it.” sequentially. But Imran can enter into dialogue with The exact picture of what BoF’s success might look Amed is now very much a part of it. His early recog- creative people. He can connect the dots.” like, however, is still a work in progress. Amed thinks nition of the importance of digital innovation in fashion Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack banner ads lack impact, though he’s not opposed to put him and his blog-turned-website, The Business of McCollough were among the fashion designers who them if they make sense for a company. He is experi- Fashion, in an enviable position. In the past few years, took an early appreciation of Amed’s bilingual ability. menting with more integrated “native advertising,” he’s conducted workshops for executives at luxury con- “BoF is one of a handful of publications that gener- with sponsors like Magento, a B2B company owned by glomerates like Richemont (Cartier, Chloé), LVMH (Dior, ate in-depth discussions about the industry,” says eBay that helps optimize e-commerce sites. He created Givenchy, Céline) and Kering (Gucci, Saint Laurent and Hernandez. “It’s grown a lot, but they’ve managed to a package for them that includes a well-placed ad on Stella McCartney) to help them understand the digital maintain a certain editorial freedom.” the site and the sponsorship of four posts on the state forces unraveling the universe where they were once renegade That freedom is a key part of BoF’s mission. Al- of e-commerce, which means the company is unob- masters. Even Google, a year and a half ago, invited him though a few fashion critics are known for speaking trusively mentioned in the introduction as a sponsor, to speak to the company’s top brass and their luxury their minds, most tread lightly with opinions for fear though it has no say in the content of the article. He the busIness of advertisers, like Net-A-Porter and Burberry. of offending an advertiser or powerful connection. The says he and his team, along with investors and advisors, In February of this year, Amed’s site—which, as post that Amed calls the site’s “seminal moment” was have been discussing various revenue streams, from he describes it, is “kind of a blog, kind of a B2B trade titled “A Wake-Up Call for YSL’s PR Team.” It detailed classified advertisements to special reports and confer- fashIon journal and kind of a magazine” that he launched in several contentious exchanges Amed had with publi- ences. “That’s what’s great about BoF,” says Amed. “It’s January 2007 “from his couch”—received $2.1 mil- cists for the brand’s provocative new designer, Hedi not just a media business. It’s a B2B business.” How Imran Amed became fashion’s most lion from a group of investors that includes LVMH and Slimane, as they tried to control various aspects of Though it’s still not clear how Imran will make venture capital firm Index Ventures, which takes early- their coverage on BoF’s site. The battle culminated money from the site, his new partners are confident. only connect from top: amed with sought-after expert on luxury in the digital age. fashion photographer nick Knight, at stage positions in web-savvy fashion companies like with Amed being declined an invitation to Slimane’s “He’s a real disruptor to the way people got their bof’s 2010 fashion Pioneers event in Nasty Gal and Asos. He used the cash infusion to hire a debut collection in Paris. He laid out each exchange information in the past,” says Robin Klein, a principal london; the business of fashion’s home BY Meenal MistrY staff of 10 and move into a light-filled open-plan office and finally concluded: “This kind of behavior… reveals at Index Ventures. “Who knows? He may develop the page; with fashion critic of the International Herald Tribune, in London’s Soho neighborhood. Amed is busier than a fundamental misunderstanding of how winning Business of X, Y, and Zed in the future. We’re backing at a panel discussion on “the Pace of Daniel Cianfarra Courtesy business of fashion Courtesy business of fashion (all) Daniel Cianfarra Courtesy business of fashion ever, juggling a packed travel schedule of speaking Courtesy business of fashion (all) brands are built in today’s world.” Its calm clarity was Imran rather than a specific business plan.”• fashion,” hosted by Miu Miu.

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0913B_WSJ_Imran_02.indd 76 8/6/13 12:42 PM 0913B_WSJ_Imran_02.indd 77 8/6/13 12:42 PM 08062013114935 Approved with warnings 08062013114919 Approved with warnings MEN’S FASHION ISSUE

STRIDE RIGHT An oversize tweed coat is an easy alternative to a heavy button- up suit. Balenciaga coat and turtleneck, Valentino pants and Michael Kors boot. For details see Sources, page 122.

NEW BR 03 GoldEN HERitaGE CollECtioN Ø 42 mm · www.bellross.com Street Smart A series of tailored topcoats transforms a walk through the concrete jungle into an urbane adventure.

PHOTOGRAPHY GReGORY HARRis sTYLiNG BY TONY iRviNe clean lines Attract attention with quality cuts and subtle patterns, not traffic-stopping, tricky styling. Prada coat and pants, Dior Homme sweater and Sermoneta gloves. Opposite: Valentino coat, Dior Homme sweater and Calvin Klein Collection sunglasses. 81

0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_03.indd 80 8/8/13 11:56 AM 0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 81 8/6/13 12:03 PM 08082013105713 08062013113728 DOUBlinG asseTs The old-fashion overlapping style becomes new when tightly tailored or largely relaxed. Ermenegildo Zegna coat and trousers, Balenciaga turtleneck and Sermoneta gloves (on both looks). Opposite: Emporio Armani coat and pants, Balenciaga turtleneck and Salvatore Ferragamo boot.

0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 82 8/6/13 12:03 PM 0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 83 8/6/13 12:03 PM 08062013113728 08062013113744 UnDeR WRaPs Heat up any outfit by adding luxe layers, including a contrasting coat. overcoat, Dior Homme sweater and trousers and Emporio Armani gloves. Opposite: Rag & Bone coats, Dior Homme sweater, Alexander McQueen trousers, Gucci boot and Sermoneta gloves. Grooming note: Slick back hair for a sleek, sophisticated look with 84 Bumble & Bumble’s Gellac.

0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 84 8/6/13 12:03 PM 0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 85 8/6/13 12:03 PM 08062013113744 08062013113745 RicH OVeRTOnes Cut through the crowd in a long, lean look or one of a deeply hued variety. John Varvatos coat and pants, Dior Homme sweater and Gigi Burris Millinery cap. Opposite: Burberry Prorsum coat, Bottega Veneta sweater and Sermoneta gloves.

0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 86 8/6/13 12:03 PM 0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 87 8/6/13 12:03 PM 08062013113746 08062013113746 STEP IT UP Freeze out questionable taste with these instantly cool classics. Ralph Lauren Black Label topcoat, sweater and trousers, J.M. Weston boot, Sermoneta gloves and Mykita sunglasses. Opposite: Bottega Veneta coat and sweater, Jil Sander pants, Pierre Hardy shoes and Sermoneta gloves. For details see Sources, page 122.

Model, Matt Bell at New York Models; makeup, Ralph Silicio; hair, Brian Buenaventura. 89

0913B_WSJ_ModelCoats_02.indd 88 8/6/13 12:03 PM 08062013113746 After he left Gucci Group, Tom Ford began building a new brand under his own name. Now, as his global fashion empire is hitting its stride, the designer—photographed here with model — the ford factor takes on his next big role: fatherhood. BY JASON GAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY SØLVE SUNDSBØ 91

0913B_WSJ_TomFord_02.indd 90 8/6/13 12:52 PM 08072013151102 HAT DAY IS your sock?” Tom “You’re in Tokyo,” he says helpfully. “It’s Thursday pressures. But now it is his name alone, in striking Ford asks. in Tokyo.” Gotham book font. His vision, no exceptions. It is approaching late after- Ford says this in a sly, observant way. Not a put- “I’m at a point in my life where I want to make noon in Ford’s high-ceilinged down. Condescending is not his style. One of the the very best,” Ford says matter-of-factly. “That’s London office, and I am sitting first things people notice about Ford in person is his what interests me. If it’s not the best, I don’t want across a sleek table from the politeness—what his friend, the actress Rita Wilson, to make it.” W52-year-old designer who, as always, is immacu- calls his “extremely good manners”; the way a sim- By now the basics of Ford’s fashion biography lately dressed—Tom Ford suit, Tom Ford tie, a gold ple act like a handshake or opening a door becomes a are industry legend: the Texas-born, Santa Fe, New Tom Ford collar bar gleaming—his own flawless suave, elegant gesture, a throwback to another era. Mexico–raised former actor who willed himself vision of masculine style. Little things, perhaps, but little things matter in the into the trade in the ’80s as an apprentice under What day is my sock? I’m confused by Ford’s world of Tom Ford, a man of refinement and control, designer Cathy Hardwick, then on to Perry Ellis, question. always dressed as if he’s about to be photographed, then to Gucci in 1990, where the young unknown “Is this the right day?” Ford asks. even when he doesn’t want to be photographed. Ford transformed a foundering brand into a global Oh, dear. Not the socks. Great care—or at least Artist Lisa Eisner recalls picking Ford up to go to luxury powerhouse. Gucci under Ford was lavishly my version of great care—has gone into my ward- the movies in Los Angeles and finding him dressed fun, expertly designed and marketed, just the right robe today, given that I’ve come to see Tom Ford, a in one of his suits. “He is not going to wear cargo amount of edgy and dangerous—a perfect match for man who, through his creativity and energy at Gucci shorts,” Eisner says. “He is always going to look the go-go economy of its time. and Yves Saint Laurent and now his own eponymous impeccable, no matter where you catch him.” Then, in 2004, amid a struggle for control with label, helped originate and define a quarter-century the company’s new owners, Ford walked away. of men’s and women’s style. Ford not only created a OW FORD IS BACK. Is “back” even the Suddenly. Completely. He decamped to L.A., bought Tom Ford look but personified it, becoming a face in right word? It sounds a bit ridicu- golf clubs. “I thought I was going to retire,” Ford front of the label: rakish, confident, a celebrity of lous, because Ford never really went says. “Fantasy. It was just exhaustion and burnout.” luxury, to the point that Jay-Z would release a track away, dropped out, grew a Lebowski A year later, Ford dipped into eyewear, fragrances this summer entitled, simply, “Tom Ford.” I wasn’t beard—his biggest professional and cosmetics (licensing his name to the Marcolin about to get my schlumpy self into a fashion face-off detour was making a film in Los Group and Estée Lauder), but purposely kept it lim- with Ford, but I also didn’t want to be a total sham- NAngeles, hardly a cabin in the woods—but there is ited to that. “At that moment in time, I wasn’t sure I bles. A solid hour was spent primping—roughly the unmistakable sense that his second act in fash- was really going to do anything more,” he says. 59 minutes longer than my usual primp—back at ion, modestly relaunched in the mid-2000s, is only The movies beckoned, as many expected. the hotel. A cotton navy suit, crumpled by a seven- hitting full steam now. Domenico De Sole, Ford’s Ford’s 2009 directorial debut, A Single Man, was a hour flight, was rushed off for a last-minute press. I business partner since their Gucci days, says the handsome jewel box of a film, based on a novel by brought my best shirt. The good tie. designer is fond of calling his line the “first true lux- Christopher Isherwood about a day in the life of a But the socks—I’d packed only one pair. They were ury brand of the 21st century.” There are 81 stores college professor undone by the death of his boy- a silly Christmas present, several years old: black globally—two new flagships just opened in Chicago friend. Starring Colin Firth in the title role, the film socks sewn with the days of the week at the top— and Dallas—with dozens more to come. Earlier this was the sort of lush visual feast one might expect Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, etc. I pulled them on year, Ford debuted a womenswear collection with a from Ford, but it was also praised for its soulful ren- with a feeling of dread, hoping Ford wouldn’t notice. major show at London Fashion Week, his first full-on dering of an early ’60s gay relationship. Ford jokes Foolish. Details are what Ford does, perhaps as well runway show for women in nearly 10 years. That’s a that it was only after A Single Man was deemed a as any fashion designer ever has—the way a dress Tom Ford tuxedo on Justin Timberlake, above-the- success—the film was critically acclaimed; Firth got caresses the curve of a woman’s neck, the way a fine knee Tom Ford boots on Rihanna, a streamlined an Oscar nomination—that he heard from people suit settles crisply on a man’s shoulders, imbuing Tom Ford suit on 007 himself, Daniel Craig. And this who’d been skeptical about his movie aspirations. “I him with a sense of impenetrability, like armor. Of fall he’s launching a line of men’s grooming prod- didn’t know they all thought I was crazy,” he says, course Ford is going to notice the day of the week ucts. After removing himself from the game almost amused. “No one says anything negative to each written on a goofy old sock. a decade ago, he has returned to the vortex, with its other in Hollywood. I find that funny. There’s a say- The sock reads Thursday. It’s Wednesday. long hours and abundant critical and commercial ing: ‘You can be nice’d to death.’ And it’s true.” There would always be the movies: Ford has optioned a couple of books and written a script. But fashion remained out there, looming. Before A Single Man, Ford had ventured into menswear, where he cut against the grain of super-skinny min- imalism with rich wide-lapeled suits—an assertive counterstatement. Womenswear arrived in 2010, with a small, private show where Ford’s pals, like Wilson, Eisner and Beyoncé, served as models. But there have been challenges, expected and unex- pected. Tom Ford launched its flagship in New York just before the financial crisis struck—and De Sole acknowledges that 2008, 2009 and part of 2010 were unsettling times. “It certainly has been more DRESSED TO KILL difficult than we thought,” he says. “It was very, Ford and Smalls, both wearing his own very difficult for all luxury brands.” design, at the London De Sole says the privately held company is now offices of Tom Ford “on course.” Ford speaks of a “tipping point,” and International. Jersey gown with cape back. is not meek about his strategy. He sees Tom Ford Opening pages: as a potentially global-dominant brand, the pin- Lace patchwork and nacle of luxury appealing to a customer for whom embroidered blouse, Gucci YSL YSL YSL Gucci Gucci Tom Ford duchesse skirt and 1996 2001 2001 2003 2003 2004 2010 money is seldom an object and peerless service is suede sandal.

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0913B_WSJ_TomFord_02.indd 92 8/6/13 12:52 PM  an expectation. The prices can be startling—suits ranging from $3,730 to $7,060, or $3,890 for a pair of crystal-embellished pumps—but there are plenty of loyal buyers willing to spend, he says. “We have customers—a lot of them—who spend more than a million dollars a year with us because they come in and just order: suit, suit, suit, suit, suit, suit,” he says, snapping his fingers. Karen Katz, the CEO and president of , says that customers buying Tom Ford “tend to be people who are strong. They’re confident. They’re powerful. And I think buying the products just helps them with all that— being even more confident and stronger.” Ford has always prided himself as a commercial designer, aware of the market, not trying to isolate him- self from the business of selling clothes. De Sole, who was on the verge of retirement when Ford lured him back, says Ford wants to know the bottom line. “There’s always some sense that all designers tend to live in Madonna Gwyneth Paltrow Julianne Moore Daniel Craig Paltrow Justin Timberlake Jay-Z their own creative universe,” De Sole says. “Tom can Gucci, 1995 Gucci, 1996 YSL, 2003 Tom Ford, 2012 Tom Ford, 2012 Tom Ford, 2013 Tom Ford, 2013 read a financial statement. He understands the practi- cal aspect of the business. That’s very important.” But the return of a designer like Ford also rep- “I’m an absolute introvert,” says Ford. “I do not familiar parental experience. The loss of control resents the return of a mood. No minimalist, Ford like parties larger than eight close friends. I’m quite can be unsettling, but also inspiring—a chance to is not afraid of a little showbiz and razzle-dazzle, the loner. What I do publicly is a performance. It’s live in a world that’s become a little harder to pre- the kind of exaggerated playfulness that fashion part of my job, and I’m good at it.” dict. “I think Tom really wanted that,” Eisner says. sometimes lacks. There’s a bravado—a largeness These days, there’s the best reason to stay at “Secretly, deep down, I think he sort of likes it.” of life Jay-Z is referring to when he raps “I rock home. Ford and Buckley have welcomed a son, Tom Ford”—and a sense of humor about its vanity. Alexander John Buckley Ford, nicknamed Jack, ITTING HERE, in this office just so, with Everything gets a little bigger. Bolder. Fun. Vogue who was born via surrogate in Los Angeles last the flowers just so and the temperature Editor in Chief Anna Wintour, praising Ford for September. Now there are feedings, onesies, dia- perfectly controlled, Ford says he is showing at London Fashion Week this spring, says pers and all the beautiful madness of parenthood, happy. “I’m generally happier than I’ve “fashion needs designers like him—rock stars who with some bespoke Ford touches. “Tom being Tom, ever been,” Ford says. “I’m really happy give you a fabulous, no-holds-barred spectacle.” all the clothes are folded in a drawer a certain way,” when I see my son in the morning. I’m Of course, part of the Tom Ford experience is Buckley says. “He’s a 100 percent hands-on dad. He Salso happy to walk in here to my office and see every- also Ford himself, the one the public knows from gets up at six every morning, gives Jack his bottle, one working. I’m happy to have certain meetings. snapshots at fabulous parties—that dashing, changes him, washes him, plays with him, gets him Then I’m not happy to have other ones.” louche-looking character who’s always ready to find dressed for the day.” When I ask Ford if he is the man he thought he mischief at 2 a.m. The Ford on the red carpet is often “I didn’t quite know what to expect,” Ford says would be at his age, more than a half-century in, he a bit of theater, a dramatic rendering the designer of Jack’s arrival. “I remember the day before he was says he is, and then goes on to joke about back pain acknowledges is a bit of a production—not necessar- born, I was up at like 5 a.m., frantically going to the and feeling wistful “for the texture of my skin when ily fake, just a heightened reality. Ford says he gave supermarket in L.A. making sure I had miniature I was 28—stretched across my tight stomach.” He up drinking four and a half years ago—“alcohol was versions of sanitary hand wipes for his diaper bag. I admits that some youth culture puzzles him. Tom getting in the way of my life, so I simply stopped,” didn’t know what the other side of that cliff was like.” Ford the company may be expanding online, but he says. He describes himself as a homebody. Says It is the cliché of clichés to say that parenthood Tom Ford the man has no current plans to be on Ford’s partner of 26 years, the fashion journal- changes everyone, but Ford says it’s true in his case, Twitter. “I’m walking out of a restaurant right now, ist Richard Buckley, who lives with the designer in too. “Spending time with [Jack] is meditative,” and I just got gum on my shoe,” Ford says, imagining South Kensington, London: “If he had his choice, we he says. “You forget about everything. You forget a fake tweet. “It’s amazing.” would never ever leave this house.” about yourself. He sees the humor of it all, how he left this busi- “I view the future differently,” he says. “You see ness once before and is now back in it, working as yourself as a link in the chain as opposed to some much as ever, in a volatile economy, with all its sort of isolated link. I see my grandparents, great attendant criticisms, pettiness, insanity and risk- grandparents, great-great grandparents. I’ve con- taking—a man who escaped the craziness, now “i’m at a point tinued the chain.” grabbing a ladder and climbing back in. This time in my life where Of course, the arrival of a child is an often Ford is in charge of his own destiny, but it’s still i want to make dramatic life adjustment, accompanied by an inevi- challenging, not without headaches and fear. “It’s STAGE PRESENCE table surrender of control. Babies do not adjust harder,” Ford says. “There’s more at stake.” “What I do publicly the very best. their schedules around your meetings or upcoming But he likes it. This, too, makes him happy. A half- is a performance, and shows. Babies have different agendas and priorities. century in, Ford knows what drives him. “There’s an I’m quite good at it,” that’s what says Ford, seated at This means keeping it loose. This means flexibility. adrenaline,” Ford says. “I’m somebody who likes to his desk. Behind him is interests me. This means change in the life of Ford. jump through hoops. I realized that. I like to jump a painting by Anselm if it’s not the “Spontaneity was not a word in his vocabulary through hoops.” Reyle and a gold Lalanne crocodile bench. Inuit best, i don’t until now,” says Eisner. “You can’t go, ‘Okay, listen What about a hoop on fire? embroidered tulle gown. baby, you’re going to be on this schedule, and you’re “Has to be lit on fire,” Ford says. “Absolutely. And want to make it.” going to do all this.’ You can try, but that rug is going then I want the hoop to get skinnier and narrower, For details see Sources, page 122. MODEL: JOAN SMALLS AT IMG; MAKEUP: YUKO FREDRIKSSON; HAIR: MICHAEL MANICURE:SILVA; MIKE POCOCK –tom ford to be pulled out from under you all the time.” It’s a to see if I can still jump through it.” š

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0913B_WSJ_TomFord_02.indd 95 8/6/13 12:52 PM  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT the collection fossil fuel Hiroshi Sugimoto’s artworks are consumed with the passage of time—and inspired by his obsessive collection of artifacts.

BY Elisa liPsKY-K aRasZ PhotogRaPhY BY adRian gaut

he studio of artist Hiroshi Sugimoto is located on the 11th floor of a non- descript building in New York’s Chelsea district, with a buzzer cryp- tically marked “Door Four.” There is nothing to indicate that one of art’s Tcontemporary masters works here, nor that his expansive space overlooking the High Line essen- tially functions as a personal time machine. Stashed away in file cabinets and drawers is a museum-wor- thy collection of fossils and Stone Age artifacts, HIGHLY CLASSIFIED Sugimoto in his New York items that inspire his black-and-white photographs, City studio, where he keeps a small fraction of his collections. 97

0913B_WSJ_Sugimoto_02.indd 96 8/6/13 12:06 PM 0913B_WSJ_Sugimoto_02.indd 97 8/6/13 12:06 PM 08062013113747 08062013113748 sculptures and architecture projects. shops auctions to add to his diverse holdings. “My “Fossils are the first photographs. They are curiosity extends in many directions,” he says. time-recording devices,” says Sugimoto, 65, whose Besides his continuing interest in Japanese artifacts own meticulously crafted, epic images of theaters, (both ancient and World War II memorabilia), he also oceans and historical figures grapple with the collects Renaissance relics, meteorite fragments and transience of existence and are in the collections of Space Race souvenirs. Two recent purchases are a the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum WWII–era Japanese hunting license—“so I can hunt of Modern Art, both in New York, and London’s Tate for myself,” he jokes—and a zero-gravity toilet from Museum. This fall, Sugimoto will exhibit artwork a Russian spacecraft that he has dubbed the “Space alongside pieces from his personal collection at the Fountain” in homage to his idol Marcel Duchamp. Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Paris. He occasionally exhibits his prized collectibles in “He is revered,” says MoMA’s chief curator of pho - a custom-designed space that resembles a traditional tography, Quentin Bajac. “His obsession with time Japanese teahouse, one floor up from his main studio, is central to his work, and of course, you find this which functions as a kind of personal laboratory for “MY curiositY in what we can call his obsession with collecting.” historical hypotheses that “happen in my imagi- extends in ManY “I buy something when I fall in love with the object. nation,” says Sugimoto. “Scholars come up with a directions… I want to live with it so I can feel it and understand it,” theory and write about it, but in my case, I want to says the artist. Of a large dinosaur egg, he says, “If you present it with an actual object.” Recently on dis- i buY soMething hold it, you feel that 65 million years [have] passed.” play was a Rembrandt print mounted in a traditional when i fall in His Stone Age hand axes, arrowheads and pots pro- Japanese scroll hung above a wooden box used by love with the vide him with an instant link to early humans. As he Christian missionaries to Japan. “This is my imagi- examines the decorated surface of pottery fragments, native reconstruction of [the life of] a 16th-century object. i want he muses, “This is the beginning of the human sense Japanese lord,” he explains. to live with it so of design—there is no function. It’s the beginning of a And sometimes mixing his own artwork with THE STONE COLLECTOR From top: A fossil i can feel it and sense of individuality and possessions.” his collections has an added benefit. “When I show from the Eocene epoch; pottery shards dating from 4,000–50,000 BCE found in the Central Sahara understand it.” Sugimoto began his New York life as a dealer of them together in a museum setting, I can claim it on region of Niger. Right: Sugimoto in a pair of optical Japanese antiquities in Soho, and today regularly my expenses.” • trial frames from a Japanese flea market. –hiroshi sugiMoto

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0913B_WSJ_Sugimoto_02.indd 98 8/6/13 12:06 PM 0913B_WSJ_Sugimoto_02.indd 99 8/6/13 12:06 PM 08062013113748 08062013113749 Flyi ng HigH Hark back to flight’s golden era by upgrading to first-class accessories.

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0913B_WSJ_FlyPrivate_02.indd 104 8/6/13 12:47 PM 08062013114918 Approved with warnings HOLY VEZZOLI Artist Francesco Vezzoli always thinks big: He staged a concert with and presented a 24-hour art exhibit in Paris. But uprooting an entire church and moving it from Italy to New York’s MoMA PS1 this fall might be his most monumental work yet.

rancesco Vezzoli is standing in the This church constitutes one of the three tent- BY Derek BlasBerg nave of a dilapidated, roofless 19th-cen- poles of Vezzoli’s oeuvre, which he identifies as PHOTOgraPHY BY DOmingO milella tury church in Montegiordano, a tiny “art, religion and glamour.” For his retrospective, town on the sole of the boot that forms he conceived of three different shows in three dif- southern Italy. He wrinkles his nose as ferent cities. A show at ’s MAXXI (the National he surveys the scene. It’s raining—an Museum of 21st Century Arts), which opened in May, Funcharacteristically gloomy day interrupting this addressed the first because, as Vezzoli states, “it’s the part of the world’s sunny spring—which is hindering most important museum for my nation.” The second a video shoot he’s producing. “I guess God is not so tenet is reflected in the installation of this church at into artists who destroy churches,” he says, a boyish PS1, titled The Church of Vezzoli. “Art is definitely a grin suddenly lighting up his face. religion,” says Vezzoli. “You can’t deny that people Vezzoli, 42, bought this church last year. He first who believe in art believe in something you can’t viewed it on the Internet before purchasing it with see.” And finally, a star-studded show early next year plans to dismantle the 1,500-square-foot structure, at Los Angeles’s Museum of Contemporary Art. “Last load it onto a boat and ship it to New York, where it will stop: glamour! That’s the deadly one.” be reconstructed in the courtyard of the Museum of He’s well versed in its allure, having experienced Modern Art’s PS1 exhibition space in Queens. It will its power firsthand. The piece that put him on the house a series of his glitzy, celebrity-packed video map was a glitzy 2005 video starring , ALTAR BOY Vezzoli in the ruins artworks as one phase of the artist’s international , and of the church of retrospective, which he has christened “The Trinity.” in a trailer for a nonexistent remake of Gore Vidal’s Montegiordano.

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0913B_WSJ_Vezzoli_03.indd 106 8/7/13 2:41 PM 08072013134248 “This projecT about [the art world],” he says. “I felt completely overwhelmed by a universe that I couldn’t over- describes my come or live with on an egalitarian level. London was of

SY fascinaTions, so strong and blossoming. Young British art was my obsessions exploding. When you went out, you would see John Galliano and Kate [Moss] on the dance floor. I was

er, courte and, of course, just this Italian kid from the suburbs. So I went back V The makeup to Italy and squeezed my brain and thought, What do M ckee of how glamour I have to say?” He retreated to Brescia and focused on his work. relaTes To The results have been criticized for relying too Y robert The dynamic overtly on references to modern pop culture—for being “too cheesy,” as Vezzoli says. Yet he cannot hoto b of religion. be accused of being uninformed. “He is able to mix . x P

IN if you compare pop culture references with erudite literary ones. I find this investigation into issues of celebrity and Star PoWEr The sainTs To Michelle williams The life of pop fame intriguing,” says Gagosian. He is as comfort- and Natalie Portman, able referencing Us Weekly as ancient texts. And above, in Vezzoli’s sTars, you see Vezzoli is as loyal a fan of old Hollywood studio films 2009 video greed, a fake commercial iT’s all abouT as the tacky Italian reality TV shows he watches directed by roman crying portrait of as a renaissance madonna e, 94 1/2 x 51 3/16 x 7 7/8 until the wee hours in the Milan apartment he keeps Polanski; lady Gaga, I,

AM The creaTion in a friend’s office building. (He also owns an apart- left, in a Vezzoli- directed performance ezzol of myTh .” tS fr ment in Milan’s Casa Galimberti building, infamous at l.A.’s MocA; a still IS because of its history as a brothel and the paintings from 2005’s caligula, Sco V rt –francesco vezzoli

ce of women in various forms of undress on its exterior. below, costarring AN P & A Milla jovovich. But he has never moved in because he says he’d rather ); fr spend time creating art than redecorating a home.) MA keu He travels often, but when in Milan, he can be found most Saturday nights at the nightclub Plastic danc- ing until dawn, although he is a strict teetotaler. tercolor, His Sunday schedule, however, does not usually Y, Y, wA performance with Veruschka at Harald Szeemann’s include mass. Vezzoli was raised Catholic, but he no ,” she remembers. “It was a perfect longer practices, which helps him detach from the caligula, 24 hour museum

I ( spiritual hang-ups of razing a sacred building. “I’m M jewelr manifesto for the art he was doing in those first

to years: the glamour of the past, the pain, the voracity always ambiguous in my [spiritual] state, so in my ezzol of the contemporary world that wants to appropriate mind I’m going there to destroy it and save it at the Ic, cuS

Sco V and to fetishize the story of a diva, of a myth.” same time,” he explains. “I’m tearing it down, but br ce In person, Vezzoli is charming. He wrings his then I’m rebuilding it in a safer place.” Indeed, after AN hands together when he’s nervous, his brown locks looking at several churches around Italy, it was the IderY, IderY, fA of fr of fall into expressive brown eyes and he’s never at a precarious position of this one, perched on the edge SY bro loss for a compliment at an opportune moment. “He’s of a cliff, that hooked Vezzoli.

Ic Ic eM a master of seduction, that’s part of what he does,” The use of a church to display modern art poses ll A

A; courte says , director of MoMA’s PS1. “He’s an interesting paradox, Biesenbach points out. “In et oc A incredibly modest, or so it looks. And, at the same Europe, museums have taken the role of the church,” oc d M time, incredibly demanding. There’s a strategy of the Biesenbach says. “Where do you go to have ques- rElIGIoUS rEVIVal Vezzoli found the dilapidated 19th-century church on the Internet and, this fall, will reconstruct it brick-by-brick in the courtyard of the ’s AN

PS1 in Queens, New York. “I’m tearing it down, but I’m rebuilding it in a safer place,” he says. M eS for eternal boy who needs to be happy.” tions and answers? Where are you inspired?” In the for M eS for

MAG Vezzoli was born in Brescia, a small Italian city centuries before museums, the church was the ear- , cottoN MAG Y I at the foothills of the Alps. He was a precocious only liest form of the art salon. “[Vezzoli] is turning that Y I child who entertained his parents—Luciano, a lawyer, around. There’s huge devotion in church, and devo- A NVAS

erotic filmCaligula, complete with togas designed by of view is never banal,” deadpans Vezzoli’s dealer the architect of the MAXXI. His work hangs at the /Gett and Titti, a pediatrician—with his wild imagination. tion in movies. What is a diva? A diva is a person who eld/Gett I t oN c Donatella Versace. (The video features Vezzoli as the Larry Gagosian. Guggenheim, the New Museum and the Metropolitan NAN Titti once told an art critic that her son became an has an emotional attraction.” ulf IN ee

incestuous emperor.) Though only five minutes long, Fame as faith is a dominant thread throughout his Museum of Art, all in New York, and London’s Tate cA artist so that he could do all the things he wanted This competition of divas—a deity juxtaposed e k with the divas in Vezzoli’s work, not to mention the its combination of lurid celebrity and political sat- work. “Hollywood is a religion too,” he says, speaking Modern. “I consider Francesco one of the few politi- Ael to do when he was 5 years old. For his part, Vezzoli ANI kjet Pr ch

ire immediately caused a sensation for when it first of The Church of Vezzoli, which will screen such vid- cal artists precisely because of the way he treats IN jokes that he moved to London “to go clubbing” and artist himself as a diva—will amuse the art world ; Stef I; MI when his church opens this fall. One wonders if peo- screened at the 2005 Venice Biennale. Such themes eos as 2009’s Greed, an ad for a nonexistent perfume recurrent themes in his work: fame, celebrity, the Y enrolled in Central Saint Martins College of Art and have been constant for Vezzoli, whose list of lead- directed by Roman Polanski, featuring a catfight obsessions with fashion,” says Miuccia Prada, who is , 2010, Design so he wouldn’t have to leave England, gradu- ple will make pilgrimages to PS1 to see the spectacle ller ezzol art Star ing ladies includes Nicki Minaj, Veruschka, Sharon between Michelle Williams and Natalie Portman. both a Vezzoli friend and muse. “He takes [a] position GA ating in 1995. That put him in the British capital just of a 19th-century church from southern Italy rebuilt In 2012, Vezzoli Stone and . In 2009, he staged a “This is a project about my work. It describes my fas- through the observation of contemporary myths, to Sco V as the local art scene was bursting with provocative, in the courtyard of a modern art museum, or if they

ce created a one- work ambitiously titled Ballets Russes Italian Style cinations, my obsessions and, of course, the makeup which he adds a profound sadness and humanity.” oSIAN exciting and newly rich artists, like Damien Hirst, will approach the altar to see the work of the Italian AN night-only 24 hours (The Shortest Musical You Will Never See Again) at of how glamour relates to the dynamic of religion. If Vezzoli cannot remember the first time he met GAG Tracey Emin and Jake and Dinos Chapman. artist Francesco Vezzoli. Not that Biesenbach is wor- museum, above— d

of fr of part party, part L.A.’s MOCA, a performance wherein Lady Gaga, you look at the saints and you compare them to the Prada, but refers to her in conversation as his “best AN Nearly 10 years younger than many of the so- ried: “Of course, Vezzoli knows how to be a successful I

SY artwork—in Paris for wearing a crystal chandelier dress codesigned with life of pop stars, you see it’s all about creation of fas- friend.” They travel together to fashion events, art called Young British Artists, Vezzoli wasn’t yet part Italian export.” Miuccia Prada

Miuccia Prada and a hat specially created by Frank cination, the creation of myth.” fairs and wellness spas. Prada also doesn’t remem- ezzol of the “in” crowd. “It shaped me in the sense that, Besides, the artist has already divined a promis- (right, with the

: courte artist). Above right:

Gehry, belted a song from a rotating Damien Hirst– Inspired by the superficial, he attracts the seri- ber how they became friends, but she was an early P from the outside, I basically saw the birth of the last ing omen: “Did you hear they elected a new pope this Sco V A 2010 work features designed hot-pink piano while ballet dancers from ous. His date to this year’s Costume Institute gala convert to his artistic fold. “Before I met Francesco ce artistic movement that was completely shameless year?” Vezzoli says, his grin widening. “His name is M to Stephanie Seymour Moscow’s Bolshoi danced around her. “His point at the Metropolitan Museum of Art was Zaha Hadid, in person, I got to know his work: It was a 2001 AN with the media. It inspired me to be more analytical Francesco too. I took it as a good sign.” as the Madonna. fro with holy child (after benozzo gozzoli) fr •

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0913B_WSJ_Vezzoli_03.indd 108 8/7/13 2:41 PM 0913B_WSJ_Vezzoli_03.indd 109 8/7/13 2:41 PM 08072013134249 08072013135215 Approved with warnings STAR TOWER The Carlyle, which opened in 1930, stands 35 stories over Madison Avenue. Opposite: Sometime-resident Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis in 1962.

The World’s MosT GlaMorous hoTel Manhattan’s famously discreet Carlyle hotel has maintained the same sophisticated charm since it was a favorite haunt of Frank Sinatra and the Kennedys, which is why it’s now enticing a vibrant new crowd to its legendary bar and historic suites.

BY AlexAndrA Wolfe PHotogrAPHY BY AndreW moore

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0913B_WSJ_Carlyle_02.indd 111 8/6/13 10:21 AM 08062013093905 n a slinky, low-cut gown, and management companies—its most recent owner famously the backdrop for the acquisition negotia-

singer Mariah Carey is climbing out of a black being the Hong Kong billionaire Cheng Yu-tung, who tions between Viacom Chairman Sumner Redstone O ld

Bentley with her husband, the television pre- bought Rosewood Hotels and Resorts (the property’s and late Paramount Chairman Martin Davis. , senter Nick Cannon, and American Idol judge management company) in 2011. Keeping its identity By then, the next leader of the free world was COTT Randy Jackson. Having just performed at constant through all those incarnations has been a finally allowed to stay—but President ); ArnA & S & AM h Rockefeller Center, the diva is in the mood to subtle feat the hotel has managed through countless had to make his entrances through a neighboring SS CK Be keep going. She isn’t headlining at a raucous down- administrations. “It still feels like you’re walking building on the side street. Dan Camp, the then hotel uine g

I ( town nightclub, however. Instead, she has pulled up into somebody’s beautiful home,” says Wyatt of the manager, called William Kahn, the head of the board YC on a sedate stretch of upper Madison Avenue, where atmosphere. “You can sit in that lobby and see the of the neighboring Carlyle House, to ask if President iller, Clinton could enter through their lobby—the two the Carlyle hotel quietly presides like a gatekeeper world walk by.” S; BfAn ge to the . “Since my vocal chords are That reputation started early on. Harry Truman buildings were connected via a downstairs hallway, Berg & d en iMA warmed up, I decided to come up here and sing,” she was the first president to stay at which had become the de facto smuggling route ST TTY tells a guest she encounters in the Art Deco lobby. the hotel in 1948, the year after the opening of for anyone seeking to evade possible threats or the ur f

Then she hesitates and asks, “Should I do it?” Bemelmans Bar, so named for its murals painted by paparazzi. Kahn recalls the staff telling him, “We S ( THROUGH THE YEARS Clockwise from ew Within minutes Carey is standing next to the children’s book illustrator Ludwig Bemelmans of have a guy coming to stay with us: He has white hair, top left: Elton John; George Clooney;

piano in the hotel’s famed Bemelmans Bar, sur- Madeline fame. But “it was John F. Kennedy who put lives in a big white house in Washington, and he has hive vi A ge Alana and Rod Stewart; David Bowie; OASTn C Daphne Guinness and L’Wren Scott; prising such guests as Proenza Schouler designers the hotel on the map,” says Smith. He stayed there so a lot of people with him in suits with earphones. We CC S Ar

ifi Princess Diana; Frank Sinatra; Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez by sing- often, starting when he was still a senator in the ’50s, would like the guy with white hair to come through ew performing with his band; Truman Capote; pAC

ing three songs in a soft –style purr. The that a direct phone line was installed for him in his your lobby.” Y n artist Ryan McGinley and Mick Jagger. il boards she treads have history: She’s performing at regular duplex suite on the 34th and 35th floors. (The Such are the reasons that, along with royalty like zei/ dA

the same address where stars like Paul McCartney, hotel also had another appeal: secret passageways Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall, half of A Kh A S; nY , Cyndi Lauper and Billy Joel have also appeared through which could visit.) After he Hollywood has also visited. Tom Cruise and Katie rl ew dA

unbidden, along with Café Carlyle regulars like was elected president, it was dubbed the New York Holmes famously hosted a tea party for their daugh- S; ge

Woody Allen, who often plays clarinet there on White House. And soon after his assassination in ter, Suri, at Bemelmans. Director Ron Howard even OASTn CC iMA Mondays with a jazz band, vocalist 1963, Jackie Kennedy, along with her children, John chose Carlyle as a middle name for both of his twin ifi

and the late cabaret singer Bobby Short. Though the Jr. and Caroline, moved there for 10 months, albeit to daughters. Jack Nicholson is so enamored with his TTY pAC

Carlyle has long defined the Upper East Side with its a different suite on the 31st floor. On rainy days, the regular suite that when it was recently booked one A/ extra-large martinis, decor that’s the design equiva- Kennedy kids played in the lobby. night and he was upgraded to another much larger vi A ge hive hive lent of patrician lockjaw and gossip sessions behind llenill C vA

curtained partitions, it’s only recently that a younger r S Ar CTO

set has seized on its inimitable cool. As they flock to ew

Tom Cruise hosTed a Tea parTy for he an area formerly referred to as “upstate,” the Carlyle Y n il

daughTer suri aT Bemelmans, and direCTor rd); has become an unlikely point of the neighborhood’s dA expanding compass. But despite the injection of a ron howard even Chose Carlyle as a middle /nY

new social energy, it has remained a time capsule of CK & redfO name for BoTh of his Twin daughTers. ri art, entertainment and the hotel’s most luxurious TS feature: privacy. Ar ew

Over the years, comings and goings by bold-faced ST hn, leOnArd deT names—from politicians to business moguls to By the late ’60s, the hotel established itself as a room—number 2209, with double-height ceilings S

JO GREATEST HITS p; Tinseltown stars—have largely gone undiscovered hangout for musicians, even creating a celebrity of and a full kitchen—he insisted on moving back to his ge Clockwise from below: ge ( S; A iMA Elaine Stritch with Tony

by the press, in part because the hotel’s burghers its own: Bobby Short, who began his biweekly stints smaller favorite. “Can we go back tomorrow?” Ruiz ge Bennett after her final TTY

recalls him asking. iMA would never dream of leaking gossip. As a result, at Café Carlyle in 1968, which he would continue for ireiMA performance at the hotel;

celebrities from Jackie Kennedy to Princess Diana the next three decades. Despite a no-jeans dress code, But the Carlyle doesn’t just reserve special treat- S/ge TTY George Harrison; Michael A/w

made the Carlyle their “home away from home,” as a scene gathered at the hotel alongside Short’s gen- ment for the biggest names—any repeat visitor gets ure Kors and Carmen Kass. lell teel fans, including Rod Stewart and Elton John. gold-monogrammed linens, which the laundry staff CT Texan philanthropist and regular guest Lynn Wyatt gA calls it. Once it was the regular meeting place of stars In the unique logic of the Carlyle universe, rock keeps pressed and at the ready for their next visit. Of n hive hive vi A ge rO like Frank Sinatra and George Harrison and society stars were considered less of a disruption than course, the hotel will also go to even more extraordi- C Me & life pi figures like Truman Capote; today it is a favorite politicians, whose security details were hardly dis- nary lengths, like reserving elevators for VIP guests. S Ar p lefT: ew z/Ti

Musician Stevie Wonder was once so grateful when TO boîte of fashion figures such as and Carine creet. When President Ronald Reagan asked to stay Y n AT il OM

Roitfeld. What continues to draw the likes of Mick at the hotel in the ’80s, then-owner Peter Sharp the kitchen made him an off-menu steak at 3 a.m. that Ch Jagger and George Clooney is not how much the hotel declined out of consideration for his regular guests he left a copy of his special Braille Playboy magazine dA Se fr nY hur hur S n/ has changed but how it has appeared not to, includ- and tenants. Nancy Reagan, however, was permit- as a thank you, according to Ruiz. wi

In the past few years, the hotel has attracted OCK ing its interest in discretion. “The Carlyle certainly ted a suite, while her husband had to stay at the S; ArT ATTSO has its secrets,” gossip columnist Liz Smith says. Waldorf Astoria. “How could you tell the president a new, more fashion-conscious clientele, includ- ge Age Age Cl iMA Built by banker and real estate developer Moses of the United States that we’re not really designed to ing the dramatically attired British heiress Daphne S p TTY hi Ginsberg, who enlisted architect Sylvan Bien and have him?” jokes Hector Ruiz, the hotel’s VIP liaison Guinness, who has a favorite suite and is a regular geOrge M ge decorator Dorothy Draper, the Carlyle first opened in for the past 21 years. at the salon. Two years ago, designer Michael Kors p; rBiS. T xer/

the aftermath of the 1929 Wall Street crash that kick- Even without Reagan’s presence, the hotel became chose Bemelmans, where his preferred booth is in O

started the Great Depression. It was designed from a welcome harbor for the go-go ’80s, a place to do the back corner, to celebrate his 30th anniversary in gger); A JA nn/CO

the beginning as a residential hotel, a new trend that deals in peace. The founding members of the Carlyle fashion. “It was magic: Everything from the light- S; TiM B Y & GUEST APPEARANCES ge instantly drew an affluent group of tenants despite private equity group named their firm after the hotel, ing to the music was perfect, and the room was filled TTMA From left: Longtime iMA ginle the downturn. Today, media moguls Barry Diller and since they had come up with the idea over a meal with some of my favorite people,” says Kors. “We had Carlyle resident Barry Diller MC , there. The morning buffet, complete with yogurt Judy Collins perform and when she sang ‘Over the TTY with his wife, Diane von

Brad Grey each occupy one of the building’s 49 resi- Age: © Be

ge Furstenberg; dences that are interspersed among the guest rooms. parfaits and exotic cheeses alongside the traditional Rainbow,’ I sang along with everyone from my hus- ASS ni/ arriving to perform at p OuS While occupancy has never been a challenge, over the eggs, bacon and oatmeal, became a power break- band to Patti Hansen and Anjelica Huston.” A Café Carlyle; Robert gn & K rS & Redford; Victoria Beckham. previ KO years the hotel has gone through a series of owners fast for those looking for subtlety. In 1993, it was Designer Vera Wang, meanwhile, opted to launch MA

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0913B_WSJ_Carlyle_02.indd 112 8/6/13 10:21 AM 08062013095702 Approved with warnings sTevie wonder was onCe so graTeful when The kiTChen made him an off-menu sTeak aT 3 a.m. ThaT he lefT a Copy of his speCial Braille pl ayBoy TELLING DETAILS Clockwise from far left: A fragment of the mural painted magazine as by Ludwig Bemelmans; Bemelmans Bar; linens are monogrammed for a Thank you. frequent guests; elevator operator Allen Davison; the upper gallery, modeled after Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace; the Thierry Despont–designed lobby evokes Dorothy Draper’s original decor.

GRAND ENTRANCE Doorman Ernesto Zavala, above, has been a presence at the hotel for nearly 25 years. Clockwise from below: Cards honoring the hotel’s service award winners; the lower gallery’s wallpa- SUITE LIFE per features scenes of Venice and Istanbul; This 22nd-floor suite Bemelmans bartender Pedro Caballero. was a favorite of Princess Diana on her New York trips.

Designer Vera Wang, meanwhile, opted to launch for drinks. “Somehow it just became the place every- so, she’s enlisted New York–based interior designer her brand with a flagship store in the northwest cor - one decided to meet,” remembers one guest. “It felt Alexandra Champalimaud, who has also overseen BEHIND THE SCENES Above: a little bit like what it might’ve felt like in one of the similar projects for the Algonquin and Pierre hotels The Carlyle’s operator switchboard. ner of the building, which she opened in 1990 and Clockwise from below: The linen room still maintains. “I used to go to the Carlyle for English upper decks of the Titanic.” as well as London’s Dorchester. “We want to be very attendant, Eddy Nuñez, has worked afternoon tea with my father,” she remembers. “He In recent months, the Carlyle has made a rare much an inflection of a mid to younger set of Carlyle at the hotel for 30 years; a lineup of chose the store’s location.” To this day, she can often appearance in the tabloids, thanks to accused gam- guest who is an inhabitant of the Upper East Side of breakfast carts awaits delivery to the rooms; Zachary Pointon at the be found dining at her favorite banquette in the back bling ring leader Hillel “Helly” Nahmad, whose Manhattan,” says Champalimaud, who follows in the entrance to the Carlyle’s wine cellar. left of the hotel’s restaurant, which she has dubbed self-named gallery is housed in the southwest corner footsteps of Carlyle decorators Thierry Despont and her “cafeteria.” of the hotel building, on Madison. Yet the hotel has the late Mark Hampton. Last fall, Hurricane Sandy turned the hotel into managed to remain untarnished. If the reinvention is modest by New York hotel more than just a cafeteria—it became a refuge for a Meanwhile, the hotel will soon have a gentle standards, that suits the Carlyle’s needs just fine. The swath of stranded downtowners, including actress facelift, overseen by the 31-year-old Sonia Cheng, next generation will go there not to see-and-be-seen, Emma Watson, fashion designers Mary-Kate and granddaughter of the owner. Now the CEO of the but to take part in a distinctly New York tradition that Ashley Olsen, Vogue editor Grace Coddington and Rosewood Hotel Group, she plans to reinvigorate welcomes all comers but reveals nothing. As Wang makeup artist Pat McGrath. The storm had knocked the hotel’s rooms and iconic restaurant, but keep the says, “I’m not sure that most people understand that out electricity below 39th Street, forcing many of the atmosphere intact. “Our vision is in keeping with the all the heads of state, all the big movie stars and all affluent set into uptown hotels. For the entire week, hotel’s heritage—the soul of the Carlyle—but really the big models—they all stayed at the Carlyle.” And Bemelmans was brimming with people clamoring evolve it to suit a mixed generation,” she says. To do that’s just the way everyone likes it. •

114 115 Gianni Agnelli, the godfather of style s AR The Italian industrialist who ran Fiat during the jet-set age was one of the most stylish men of the 20th century. Many have copied his casually inventive look, but his elegance remains inimitable. ts, inc./licensed by AR Al

the visu R the BY Rich cohen tion fo A hol found WAR ndy

n the end, when the money is lost and the playboys in the jet-set age. When you see a kid wearing tie askew, the unbuttoned shirt—nothing was an acci- records broken, only style remains—a handful his watch or tie just so, you might be seeing a copy of dent. Or, to put it another way, it was meant to be an

R tyPe 108, 4 1/4 x 3 3/8 in. © 2013 the A of gestures that recall a life or an era. Napoleon a copy of Gianni. accident, which made it even more stylish.”

colo is dust, but the men at a dinner party still wear His style was about more than clothes—it was That slapdash manner is what people tried to buttons on their sleeves because the Little an attitude, a philosophical response to absurdity. imitate: the casual grace, the carefree quality that Corporal wanted to stop his soldiers from wip- Watching him could tell you how to live, how to suggested Agnelli was living the life you would live if Iing their noses. Arnold Rothstein was buried ages ago, behave. In Italy, they call it sprezzatura, making the only you had the money, the pedigree, the confidence, but wise guys still carry cash in a roll in their front difficult look easy. Americans are gonzo, a spirit per- the luck. He was charmed in the way of a man who gets

, August, 1972, PolA pockets because the gangster rumored to have fixed sonified by Hunter S. Thompson, who defined it as a dressed in the dark and still looks great. The hand-

LL i the World Series wanted to get at his dough fast. True man who learns to fly by falling out of a plane. Agnelli tailored shirt, the coat that didn’t match—everything ne

aG visionaries are imitated not only by those who knew might look gonzo—especially on nights when he was wrong and everything was right. He was tall them but by those who knew those who knew them— showed up in boots and an ill-fitting tie—but was, in and slender, with wide-set eyes and the intelligent,

Gianni culture is people copying people they’ve never met. fact, sprezzatura; he knew how to fly all along. “When worldly, wise face of a Continental. “You always had a Over time, the names are forgotten, but a few habits he was not perfectly dressed, it was contrived,” says sense that he was special, charismatic,” says Ginevra hol,

AR survive. In the last half century, there was perhaps no Taki Theodoracopulos, the writer, columnist, socialite Elkann, Agnelli’s granddaughter. (She runs a gallery in man more imitated than the late Gianni Agnelli, the and son of a Greek shipping tycoon. Taki is one of the Turin built around her grandparents’ art collection.)

Andy W Italian industrialist, chairman of Fiat and playboy of few surviving members of Agnelli’s social circle. “The “When he came in the house, you felt the atmosphere

style Icon Agnelli, whose nicknames included “L’avvocato” (because he had a law degree) and the “Rake of the Riviera,” photographed by Andy Warhol in 1972. 117

0913B_WSJ_Agnelli_02.indd 116 8/6/13 12:41 PM 0913B_WSJ_Agnelli_02.indd 117 8/6/13 12:41 PM 08062013114917 Approved with warnings 08062013114858 “A lot of ItAlIAns— reAlly good busIness people— try to be lIke hIm. change. There was excitement. When he was around, you knew something was going to happen.” he’s An Icon. “He was elegant and wore clothes beautifully,” but nobody says Taki. “He was meant to be a dancer, not an ath- gets It. nobody.” lete. He was built like a boy, with narrow shoulders. –robert rAbensteIner The way clothes hung on him, it was just as the designers imagine it.” If you shut your eyes, you can see him in the soci- ges ety pages and gossip columns: in a blue one piece, iMA skiing the face of a Swiss mountain, a cigarette hang - getty

ing from his mouth; or standing before a line of new es/ , pointing to his head, as if asking you to do the R math—20,000 cars at a 100,000 lire apiece; or jumping etty A g

nude from a yacht into the Mediterranean, looking not FAMIly MAn ife Pictu

unlike Mickey tumbling into the night kitchen, in the clockwise from top ho vi left: Agnelli in 1972, AP tiMe l Maurice Sendak book. You want to resort to big words with the model of the R -

to describe his persona: unflappable, punctilious, non- new fiat building; ees/

with his family, in gAMMA

chalant—at once aristocratic and utterly informal. vid l turin, 1986; with A/ Claus Von Bulow told me Agnelli used to call at three dA

Pope John Paul ii in sol or four in the morning just to say, “Tell me, Claus, 1990; at his wedding ge: to Princess Marella PA

what’s happening in the clubs?” (The American ver- uRent caracciolo, 1953. ing sion of this is Jimmy Cagney greeting friends, “What lA

d’ya hear, what d’ya say?”) “His life was his art,” says ges;

Robert Rabensteiner, the fashion editor at L’Uomo with great care and style; where a Model T was bang- of Fiat, because he built tanks for the Wehrmacht. The iMA Vogue, “the people he was connected with, the way and-go, a Fiat was plush and avanti. In this way, the company was turned over to an executive, who ran ges. folloW he expressed the style of the jet set: Henry Kissinger, Agnellis, while reeking of old-world sophistication, it just long enough for the grandson—whom the old iMA Jackie Onassis, President Kennedy. It was a beautiful are in fact the product of an industrial, hypercharged man loved with a special Lampedusa kind of love— getty life, and he lived it uniquely.” machine age. By the mid ’30s, Fiat was among the to mature enough to take over. The fall of the Reich, Resse/getty

Agnelli’s style grew out of his biography—a prod- most powerful companies in the nation. which had ushered in blue jeans, the Beatles and Pax nce P

uct of hurried days—which, at times, reads like a Agnelli was 18 at the start of World War II. He was Americana, also brought Gianni Agnelli to power. In fRA novel by Stendhal. He was born in 1921, the scion of wounded twice on the Russian front, then again in the ’60s and ’70s, when Agnelli was in his prime, Fiat ; Keystone/

a prosperous Italian family. He grew up in Turin but North Africa, where he drove an armored car built by employed more people than any other company in foto A

spent vacations in his family’s ancestral town in the Fiat. Legend has it that the third wound came not on Italy. Agnelli, the nation’s leading industrialist, was bol

Piedmont, where cliffs overhang rivers that tumble the battlefield but in a bar—a dank, smoke-filled dive made a lifetime member of the Senate. He was some- P left: Agence ARA

into white water. His grandfather, , where officers mingled with locals. It had to do with times referred to as “the uncrowned king of Italy.” M/f a wealthy landowner, founded Fiat, the first company a girl. A German officer ended it by shooting Agnelli His other nicknames included “L’avvocato”—because elici f

in Italy to manufacture automobiles for the masses. in the arm. he had a law degree—and the “Rake of the Riviera,” ge fRoM to PA

On occasion, he was referred to as the Italian Henry After the armistice, the Americans who occupied no explanation necessary. He was one of the most ges; this Ford. Of course, this being Italy, everything was done Italy forced Agnelli’s grandfather to give up control eligible bachelors in the world—the James Bond of iMA

royAl FIAt A 46-year-old Agnelli in 1967, the year after he became the president of fiat, in front of the factory at its headquarters in turin. 118

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iMA enough to fit the watch,” says Taki. “But Gianni had his evening shirts handmade by Battistoni, and it turned

getty out the cuffs were so tight he couldn’t get his watch ts/ on. So he wore it on the outside. Fred Hughes was the AR first to copy it, then everyone was doing it. Now you ong b

c/ go down to a dive on the Lower East Side with your watch outside your shirt, and some kid says, ‘Oh yeah, WAR Agnelli’s trick.’ ” Ri sz The boot trick: Whereas most men wear loaf- en

; h ers with a $10,000 bespoke suit, Agnelli delighted bis

R the fashion boys with his high-top hiking boots, the co sort of combination you might expect from Jay-Z. It nn/ seemed to tell Agnelli’s story via symbols: work and MA leisure; grit and elegance; low and high. “It was really because of his leg,” says Taki. In 1952, following an argument with Winston Churchill’s daughter-in-law, ges; © b ett Agnelli took one of his cars out on the road and drove iMA fast, because speed is the cure. Somewhere around

getty Monte Carlo, he crashed into a truck. Smoke hung over P/

f the wreckage, ambulance lights pulsed. The doctors /A saved his leg but saddled him with a bulky brace. “He

sportIn’ lIFe ReAu had to have a boot on his right leg all the time because ut clockwise from top the foot never fully healed,” explains Taki. “So he’d

left: Agnelli visits the P gA sestriere ski resort wear something that looked like the boot on his left via private helicopter; l o u foot.” Taken as a statement, the boot trick was really jumping into the a man making the best of things. Mediterranean from his boat, “capricia”; The tie trick: In his middle years, Agnelli began esse; JeAn- wearing his signature arranging his tie so the skinny end was longer than the

boots; the watch trick; lAPR fat end. If a normal person showed up looking like that, on the slopes with his son edoardo. it would be taken as an unfortunate accident: The fool, he must have dressed in the cab! Agnelli turned it into a much-imitated bit of theatre. Considering his turbu- lent times—as the leading Italian capitalist, Agnelli was a constant target of the Red Brigades and other

y; y; © © MARKA/AlAM bis; radical groups—you could almost read it as a political

/coR statement. In this configuration, the front of the tie bis

MA was undercut by the back—as in the end times, the last yg coR s STEPPING OUT will be first. “In the beginning, nobody noticed,” says Agnelli with his Taki. “Then Gianni went on the ABC morning show nson/ chive/ wife, Marella (who is R now 86), at Truman wearing his tie that way. This is something Ed Koch

“the tIe Askew, the st A Capote’s Black and would do because he didn’t know how to dress. Gianni es AndA nA White Ball at the did it on purpose. I didn’t comment to him the fact that unbuttoned shIrt— AM , in 1966. nothIng wAs An he’d done it to get attention—and it was noticed. But he made up for it by giving the best remark ever about ges; © J

AccIdent. or, to put ge: © condé cheating on one’s wife: He said, ‘You could be a good iMA PA vroom. Before and during his marriage to Donna the collar buttons. You have to see him in the context husband and fool around, or a very bad husband and

It Another wAy, It ing wAs meAnt to be An getty Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto, he had affairs with, of that time. Everything he did was different. The uni- be fidel.’ It made so much sense.” es/

R among others, Pamela Churchill, Anita Ekberg and form for the young man on the make was a white silk When it comes to imitating Agnelli, Robert AccIdent, whIch mAde Jacqueline Kennedy. He was soon surrounded by aco- shirt with a lot of gold around his neck—mostly reli- Rabensteiner points out what one might call the It even more stylIsh.” ges. folloW lytes—wealthy young men who regarded Agnelli as gious—very light trousers and, of course, espadrilles. Agnelli paradox: the most characteristic element ife Pictu iMA a kind of older brother, or spirit guide. Gunter Sachs, Well, Gianni wore driver’s shoes, tight pants—not too of Agnelli’s style was being inimitable. That is, by –tAkI theodorAcopulos Porfirio Rubirosa, Taki: The names recall private jets, tight—and those button-downs without doing the col- imitating Agnelli, you are violating the spirit of the getty

tiMe & l Adriatic coves, striped umbrellas and martinis in lar. Then everyone dressed like that, because they all man you’re trying to imitate. “A lot of Italians— es/ R

ees/ heavy glasses. These men copied Agnelli, who began copied Gianni.” really good business people—try to be like him,” says to behave like a man who was being watched. He was akin to a modern architect. Form followed Rabensteiner. “He’s Gianni Agnelli, after all. An icon. vid l dA ife Pictu The main ingredient was quality. You have to be function; innovations were driven by circumstance. But nobody gets it—nobody. It’s not the clothes. It’s the rich to dress like Agnelli. He wore only the finest suits, There were no ornamental columns. Time has sifted character, the way. You can be inspired by him, but you tiMe l P left: handmade by Caraceni with Battistoni shirts. The his inventions to three signature gestures, what Taki have to do it by finding your own style. It’s not only the

ees/ best, the top—that was Agnelli. But then he took it refers to as “Agnelli’s tricks.” beauty of putting the watch over the shirt; it’s some- apart, played with it as a maker of hot rods might play The watch trick: Agnelli wore his watch, usually a thing unique, the elegance in his mind. To be a man of vid l dA

ise fRoM to with and retool an old Fiat. “Gianni’s elegance was Fratello, over the cuff of his handmade shirt. He said elegance, you should be interested in everything: art, A;

KW extremely studied,” says Taki. “He came to America he did it because he was a busy industrialist who design, cars, sports—all things that express beauty. bol hIgh socIety Agnelli after the war, when people in Italy were trying to simply did not have time to peel back his cuff when The few times I’ve seen a person with the watch out- fARA

in Ravello with Jacqueline ge cloc rebuild. He was the first [European] man of his time to he wanted to know the time. But according to some, side the shirt, it has, to me, looked ridiculous. Because Kennedy and lee Radziwill in teAM spIrIt from top: Agnelli with PA discover Brooks Brothers. In ’58, ’59, he was wearing the true origin is more pedestrian. “In the day, he you know it’s a person doing a copy. And the person 1962. left: At the 1998 World members of italy’s Juventus soccer team, chivi this AR button-down Brooks Brothers shirts without doing wore Brooks Brothers shirts and the cuffs were wide doing a copy is almost always the wrong person.” cup quarter finals in france, owned by the family since 1923; with formula • with friend henry Kissinger. one drivers at the british grand Prix, 1996.

121

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122 wsj. magazine ©2013 Dow Jones & Co. Inc. All rights reserved. 4WM2189 Hello Tomorrow

still life ROBERT EVANS The Hollywood producer shares a few of his favorite things. photography by lisa eisner Fly to Milan

“The piano was a divorce gifT from my ex-wife, The photo is from my induction ceremony. Above that Walk of Fame star is right next to Jack Nicholson’s; he’s Phyllis George. It’s an 1872 rosewood grand Steinway. is the Golden Globe Award for Best Motion Picture my closest friend in town. The Fabergé letter opener Everyone’s played it, from Dustin Hoffman to Warren that I received in 1974 for Chinatown, and my David in the rectangular box was given to me by Princess in a new fashion Beatty. The photo on the wall was taken by Helmut di Donatello Award—Italy’s version of the Oscars— Soraya, who at the time was the most desired woman in Newton in the Lancaster hotel in Paris. He was one of my for best producer from 1977 for Marathon Man. The the world. The Duke, John Wayne, gave me the cannon Enjoy multi-course gourmet meals and over 1,400 channels of entertainment closest friends. The shield hanging from the door was a black leather book was a gift from Ali MacGraw when after we did True Grit. The stone box is made of rub- gift from Alain Delon. It usually hangs over my bed— we got married. She hand-wrote F. Scott Fitzgerald’s ble retrieved from the Second World War, a memento ateveryseat.Orsimplyclosethedoorstoyourprivatesuiteandrelaxinyour everyone needs a bit of armor in Hollywood. I received short story “Winter Dreams.” On the last page, it says, from when I flew to England, had lunch at the House of ownquietspace.FlyEmiratesnon-stopfromJFKtoMilanstartingOctober1st. the gold key to New York in 1975 because of the amount “October 24, 1969—forever.” It proves one thing: Lords and prevailed on the lordships to insure that Sir SayhellotoarrivinginstyleatItaly’shigh-fashionhub. of production work I was bringing into the city. The Everything in life is temporary. In front of the book is Laurence Olivier take his role in Marathon Man. The thing I am proudest of is my diploma as a full profes- the Lifetime Achievement Award I received in 2003 Fat Lady Sang is my new memoir, out in November. I’m sor at Brown University. I never graduated high school! from the Producers Guild of America. My Hollywood lucky—she forgot the last verse.” • emirates.com/usa

124 wsj. magazine “Airline of the Year” 2013 Skytrax World Airline Awards

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