Add Zest with Mexican Red-Chile Sauce Roasting and puréeing turns dried chiles into versatile flavoring BY ALEJANDRA CISNEROS Brilliant broth. Red-chile sauce transforms chicken soup into a piquant homestyle Mexican dish called clemole. Photos: Suzanne Roman FINE COOKING Copyright © 1994 - 2007 The Taunton Press ithout the burn of chile pepper, food tastes Wflat to me. Chiles make the mouth come alive and bring out the flavors of other ingredients. Here in Cuernavaca, Mexico, at least twenty types Cleaning the chiles. of peppers are found in markets. They’re available The author uses a fresh, smoked, pickled, powdered, and dried. For damp cloth to clean most of my everyday cooking, I use fresh green off the dust that set- chiles, but for special occasions I turn to the dried tled on the chiles as red ones. I find that dried chiles have a deeper, more they air-dried. Good subtle taste than fresh. chiles are evenly The easiest way to extract the flavor and fire colored and pliable. from dried chiles is to make them into a sauce. The red-chile sauce can then be served as a cold table salsa, used to coat tortillas and make enchiladas, or added to a wide variety of dishes, from poached eggs to pork stew. Making the sauce is the first step in preparing many traditional and improvised Mexican dishes. DRIED-CHILE CHOICES Any type of dried chile can be made into a sauce. Most of the time, I cook with guajillo (gwa-hee-yoh) chiles because they aren’t too hot and they have a touch of sweetness. Guajillos are about four to five inches long, deep red, narrow, and smooth skinned. New Mexico and California chiles, which are more widely available in the United States, closely re- semble guajillo chiles in appearance and flavor. Sometimes I use ancho or mulato chiles, which are sweeter and meatier than guajillo chiles, or pasilla chiles, which are very spicy. The small, fiery-hot Roasting. To deepen chile de arbol can also be made into a potent sauce. the flavor, the dried Use whichever kind is available in your area. Each chiles are roasted has its own flavor, but the various types can be inter- briefly in a little oil un- changed or mixed together in dried-chile sauce. til they soften and give Look for chiles that are soft, pliable, and off a pungent chile evenly colored. Watch out for patches of light aroma. Take care not orange, which show where bugs got at the drying to burn the chiles, or chiles. Since they remain in good condition for they will turn bitter. weeks in a loosely closed plastic bag, I buy chiles by the quarter kilo and keep them on hand. In U.S. supermarkets, dried chiles are often sold in three-ounce plastic bags in the produce section. (For mail-order sources, see p. 34.) MAKING THE SAUCE For one batch of red-chile sauce, use eight to ten guajillo, New Mexico, or California chiles, or five to seven of the meatier ancho, mulato, or pasilla chiles. Air-dried chiles can be dusty; simply wipe them off with a damp cloth. Pull out the woody stems. Puréeing. The roasted I used to take out the seeds and veins, but now chile peppers are torn I leave them in because they give more substance into pieces and to the sauce. The only exception to this is with chile chopped in a blender pasillas. Since pasillas can be very hot, I take out with garlic, roasted the seeds and veins so that the finished dish won’t tomato, and water. be too spicy. FEBRUARY/MARCH 1994 31 Copyright © 1994 - 2007 The Taunton Press Straining. To get a smooth sauce, the author presses the puréed chiles through a strainer to remove the rough seeds and skins. Roast the whole chiles in a little bit of oil in a fry- more of the chile through. Since the sauce will cook ing pan over low heat. You can also roast them in a down, it doesn’t matter if it’s a little watery to start. dry pan, but they are more likely to burn and turn bitter. Cook the chiles one at a time for a minute or USING AS COLD SALSA two, flipping them over and pressing them against Red-chile sauce is always a welcome addition to my the pan with a spatula. Roast the chiles until they table. It finds its way onto eggs and beans at break- soften and release their aroma, but be careful not to fast, over rice and pasta at the mid-afternoon dinner, let them burn. Turn on the fan over the stove: chile and into soups, sandwiches, and tacos at supper. fumes can sting your eyes and throat. Some people in my family like food very spicy, and MEXICAN Cut the tomato in half lengthwise and roast it others prefer just a touch of chile. With salsa on the RED-CHILE in the same pan that the chiles were in. Tomato gives table, everyone can choose how much heat to add. SAUCE substance to the sauce. I usually use one plum toma- This salsa keeps a week in the refrigerator, but at the 10 guajillo, New to for every batch of sauce, but if you want to make end of that time you can always bring it to a boil, Mexico, or a milder sauce you can add another tomato. Cook and it will be good for another week. California chiles the tomato for several minutes, flipping the pieces (or 7 ancho, mulato, occasionally until they’re soft but not mushy. COATING TORTILLAS or pasilla chiles) Rip the chiles into pieces and put them in a The flavor of red-chile sauce combines beautifully Vegetable oil blender or food processor. Add the tomato, garlic, with corn tortillas. I like to make dobladitos, which 1 tomato and water. Blend until the chiles are a smooth purée, are corn tortillas dipped in warm chile sauce, folded 1 clove garlic which takes about two minutes. in quarters and topped with grated cheese and rings 1 cup water Pour the puréed sauce through a sieve to re- of raw onion. Dobladitos are good with almost any- move skin and seeds. Tap on the strainer with a fin- thing, but I especially like to serve them with roast ger or spoon to move the thick sauce through. If you chicken, along with some rice and vegetables. intend to use the sauce as a salsa to spoon onto food, Sauce-dipped tortillas can also be filled and rolled strain the purée into a bowl, thin it with a table- into tubes to make enchiladas. Enchilada, in fact, spoon or so of water, add salt, and you’re done. If you means “covered with chile.” (See recipe next page.) plan to cook it further, strain the chile sauce into a bowl or right into the cooking pot. Pour a cup or two COOKING IN THINNED SAUCE of meat broth or water into the strainer and, with a Ingredients absorb the chile flavor more thoroughly spoon, press the purée against the strainer to force when cooked right in the sauce. First thin the sauce 32 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1994 - 2007 The Taunton Press with water or broth so that there’s plenty of liquid to Enchiladas. Chewy, cook in. The sauce will thicken as it cooks. chile-coated corn tor- A simple, delicious brunch dish is eggs poached tillas wrap around in red-chile sauce. Crack the eggs directly into poached, shredded the thinned sauce. If the eggs aren’t completely chicken. Raw onion submerged, splash some more sauce on top. This gives the dish crunch dish is called huevos ahogados—drowning eggs. while fresh cheese, like Another favorite combination is potatoes and Mexican queso fresco cheese with chile sauce. Fry leftover potatoes and or American farmer put them in the sauce. Let the mixture cook for cheese, delivers both five minutes so that the potatoes take on the tang and creaminess. flavor of the chiles. Just before serving, add chunks of cheese. I like to use queso fresco, which is similar to feta or farmer cheese, and queso añejo, which is drier. Mild, semisoft cheeses like Gouda or Monterey Jack also work well. For supper I put the potatoes and cheese into warm tortillas and top with chopped onion. Red chiles are also the base for a popular spicy stew called carne en adobo (car-neh n ah-doh-boh). The chile sauce is first seared in oil, and then 11⁄2 lb. chicken pieces flavored with vinegar and oregano and thinned 2 cloves garlic with broth. Chunks of pork or beef finish cooking 1 onion, quartered smothered with the thickening adobo sauce (see 1⁄2 tsp. salt 12 corn tortillas recipe on p. 34). 1⁄4 cup vegetable oil 1 recipe Mexican Red-Chile Sauce, above SEASONING SOUPS TO SERVE: Poached eggs in Red-chile sauce has a rich, concentrated flavor that 1 onion, sliced chile. Thin the red- 1 dominates a dish like the carne en adobo. When ⁄3 cup cheese (queso añejo, queso fresco, farmer cheese, chile sauce with water, feta, or mild Parmesan), grated or crumbled diluted in a soup, the sauce takes on a different char- 1⁄2 cup thick or sour cream bring it to a simmer, acter. The chile has a brighter flavor that plays off and then crack the Cook the chicken. Put the chicken pieces in a saucepan the other ingredients. A good example is a dish and cover it with water.