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Behind the Scenes

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to fellow authors Nicola Williams and Alexis OUR READERS Averbuck for all their help, contributions and Many thanks to the travellers who used the sage advice, and to editor Kate Morgan for last edition and wrote to us with helpful giving me the opportunity to revisit one of my hints, useful advice and interesting an- favourite corners of France. ecdotes: Isabelle Anderson, Reiter Angela, Dominique Boin, Urshla & Nelson Duarte, Nicola Williams Veronica Graham, Jean Luc Le Formal, Keith Lofstrom, Cary Marie-Laurence, David Nicol, Having written the 1st edition of this book in Chantal Palmer, Andy Wilson. 1998, it was with immense joy that I retraced my footsteps for this 8th edition – this time with three intrepid children in tow. Un grand AUTHOR THANKS merci Niko, Mischa et Kaya (und Christa!). Otherwise, sincere thanks to Eva Fournial Alexis Averbuck (Mougins), Alain Corroyer (Nice), Richard Au- Boundless thanks to Amy, Rod, Lola and Romy ray (Courmes) and Clare Bouvier (Antibes) for for making always feel like home insider tips and recommendations. At home, to me. Life on the road wouldn’t be nearly so thanks to husband Matthias Lüfkens for his joie wonderful without the kindness of strangers, de vivre, love of travel and gracious tolerance of so many thanks to the countless individuals a temperamental workaholic wife. who eased my trip and shared their tips. Then, to my trusty copilot, Ryan Ver Berkmoes: what a peachy treat to share springtime in . ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS And finally, thanks to Kate, Nicola and Olly for Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, being such a super team. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Oliver Berry World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Thanks to all the people who provided special Sciences, 11, 1633–44. help while I was out on the road: Jean-Marie Illustrations pp64–5, pp146–7 by Javier and Yvette Duchamp, Gabriel Boucher, Marcel Zarracina. Cover photograph: Provençal village, Allard, Alexandre Berri, Theo Girard and Susie Konstanttin/Shutterstock. and Gracie Berry. Biggest thanks as always go 311

This guidebook was ley, Elizabeth Jones, Charlotte THIS BOOK produced by the following: Orr, Simon Williamson This 8th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers Planet’s Provence & the Côte Kate Morgan Mark Griffiths, Corey Hutch- d’Azur guidebook was re- ison, Alison Lyall Briohny SCENES THE BEHIND searched and written by Alexis Product Editors Hooper, Kathryn Rowan Averbuck, Oliver Berry and Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzie Nicola Williams. The previous Senior Cartographer edition was written by Emilie Valentina Kremenchutskaya Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Filou, Alexis Averbuck and Book Designer Claire Murphy, Karyn Noble, John A Vlahides. Jessica Rose Martine Power, Samantha Russell-Tulip, James Smart, Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 312

Index

A shopping 174 L’Unité d’Habitation 151 Musée Angladon 197 abbeys & monasteries, sights 168-71 Monastère de la Verne 128 Musée Calvet 196-7 see also churches & tourist information 175 Palais des Papes 14, Musée Cantini 150 cathedrals tours 171 196, 14 Musée d’Art Classique de Abbaye de Silvacane 244 travel to/from 175 Promenade des Anglais Mougins 103 Abbaye de Thoronet 125 travel within 175 45 Musée d’Art Abbaye Notre-Dame de Ansouis 244 religious architecture 270 Contemporain 154 Sénanque 158, 231, 234 Antibes-Juan-les-Pins Salle des Mariages 74 Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain 48 Abbaye St-André 204 89-94, 90 Théâtre Antique (Arles) Musée de l’Annonciade Abbaye St-Victor 145 aperitifs 288 180 112 Abbaye Ste-Madeleine Appellation d’Origine Théâtre Antique (Orange) Musée des Beaux Arts 213 Protégée (AOP) 284 207 150-1 Chartreuse du Val de Apt 237-9 Théâtre Antique Bénédiction 204 (Vaison-la-Romaine) Musée du Petit Palais 197 aquariums Monastère de la Verne 128 210 Musée Granet 169 Musée de la Mer 89 Monastère Fortifié 89 Villa Ephrussi de Musée Jean Cocteau Musée Océanographique Rothschild 60 Collection Séverin Monastère St-Paul de de Monaco 63 Mausole 222 Villa Grecque Kérylos 60 Wunderman 74 aqueducts Prieuré de Salagon 248 Village des Bories 234 Musée Jean-Honoré Aqueduc de area codes 17, 295 Fragonard 20, 100 accommodation 18, 29-30, Roquefavour 176 290, see also individual Arles 14, 41, 180-6 Musée Matisse 45 Pont du Gard 10, 229, 10 locations accommodation 177, Musée National Fernand Arc de Triomphe (Orange) costs 30, 290 183-4 Léger 94 207 language 303-4 drinking 185 Musée National Marc archaeological sites, see Chagall 48 activities 24-25, 35-37, see festivals 183 also aqueducts, Roman Musée National Picasso also individual activities food 177, 184-5 sites La Guerre et la Paix 94 Aigues-Mortes 188 highlights 178-9 Les Mées 250 Musée Picasso (Antibes) air travel 297 Musée de la Préhistoire planning 177, 183 89-90 airlines 297 des Gorges du Verdon sights 180, 182-3 Musée Réattu 182 airports 297 253 tourist information 185 Musée Renoir 97 Aéroport Marseille-­ petroglyphs 263, 268 travel to/from 185-6 Nouveau Musée National Provence 164 Vallée des Merveilles Arrière-Pays, the 95-104 de Monaco 68 Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport 263, 268 Arrière-Pays Niçois 58 Villa-Musée Fragonard 57 architecture 281-3, see also art galleries & art museums 100 Aix-en-Provence 15, 41, Roman sites 23, 145, see also artists, artists 23, 276-9, see also 168-75, 170 Abbaye de Thoronet 125 museums art galleries & art accommodation 141, 171-2 Abbaye Notre-Dame de Atelier Cézanne 169, 15 museums drinking 174 Sénanque 158, 231, 234 Carré d’Art 226 Arman 279 entertainment 174 Arc de Triomphe (Orange) Chapelle Cocteau 108 Baldaccini, César 154, 279 207 festivals 171 Collection Lambert 197 Bréa, Louis (Ludovico) Cabanon Le Corbusier 73 food 141, 172-4 Espace de l’Art Concret 277 highlights 142-3 Carré d’Art 226 104 Cézanne, Paul 15, 169, planning 141 Chapelle du Rosaire 96 Espace Van Gogh 182 276-7 Chartreuse du Val de Fondation Victor Vasarely Chagall, Marc 48, 279 Bénédiction 204 170-1 Ernst, Max 175 La Croisette 82 Fondation Vincent Van Fragonard, Jean-Honoré Map Pages 000 Le Corbusier 73, 151, 282 Gogh 182 100, 277 Photo Pages 000 313 Klein, Yves 279 St-Tropez 119-20, entertainment 88 churches & cathedrals, see Le Corbusier 73, 151, 282 beach safety 294 festivals 82-3 also abbeys & Léger, Fernand 94 Beaulieu-sur-Mer 60-1 food 79, 86-7 monasteries Matisse, Henri 45, 96, Beaumes-de-Venise 213 highlights 80-1 Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde 151 277-8 Bédoin 215 shopping 87 Peynet, Raymond 91 Basilique St-Michel belle époque 272, 282 sights 82 Archange 75 Picasso, Pablo 89-90, 94, INDEX bike travel, see cycling tourist information 88 Cathédrale de Fréjus 106 175, 278 bikini 274 tours 82 Raysse, Martial 279 Cathédrale de Marseille Biot 94 travel to/from 88 Notre Dame de Major -Renoir, Pierre-Auguste birdwatching canoeing 21, 37, see 150  A

C  277 ,97 Camargue, the 187 also kayaking, rafting Cathédrale de Monaco Saint Phalle, Niki de 279 Gorges du Verdon 252 Camargue, the 188 63 Van Gogh, Vincent 180, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue 219 Cathédrale Orthodoxe 182, 222, 276 La Capte 137 River Gard 229 Russe St-Nicolas 48 Vasarely, Victor 279 Obersvatoire Onithologique de canyoning Cathédrale St-Siffrein arts 280-3, see also art Mérindol 244 216 galleries & art muse- Gorges du Verdon 252 Bistrot de Pays 249 Vallée de la Roya 264 Chapelle de Ste- ums, artists, literature, Rosaline 123 music, painting boat travel 299 167 Chapelle du Rosaire 96 festivals 23 boat trips Cap d’Antibes 93 Chapelle Notre Dame de Avignon 197 Cap Lardier 121-2 astronomy Beauvoir 253 Camargue, the 187, 190 car travel 261, 298, 300-2, Centre d’Astronomie 250 Chapelle St-Pierre 59 Cannes 82 see also scenic drives Observatoire de Haute- Église des Stes-Maries Corniche Inférieure 59 hire 300 Provence 249 189 Nice 48 insurance 301 Observatoire Sirene 237 Église St-Trophime 180 Sanary-sur-Mer 139 maps 292-3 Atelier Cézanne 169, 15 Notre Dame des ATMs 293 St-Tropez 113 road rules 300, 301-2 Fontaines 264 Aups 126 Bonnieux 240-2 Carpentras 215-18, 216 cinema 266, 280-1 Avignon 41, 196-204, 205, books, see literature Casino de Monte Carlo film festivals 82, 83, 280 198-9 Bormes-les-Mimosas 132-3 62-3, 64-5 climate 16, 290 Cassis 167-8 accommodation 193, bouillabaisse 33, 160 Cloître St-Trophime 180, 14 197-200 Bréa, Louis (Ludovico) 277 Castellane 255-6 Col de Vence 99-100 drinking 202 budget 17 cathedrals, see churches & Collobrières 128-9 entertainment 202 cathedrals bullfights 180, 183, 184, consulates 291 festivals 197 227, see also courses Catholicism 190 Corniche de l’Estérel 105-6 food 193, 200-2 Camarguaises cell phones 16, 295 Corniche des Maures 129, bungee jumping 22, 35 highlights 194-5 Centre d’Astronomie 250 132-3 Gorges du Verdon 252 planning 193 Cézanne, Paul 15, 169, Corniche Inférieure 11, shopping 203 Buoux 239 276-7 58-61 sights 196-7 bus travel 297-8, 299 Chagall, Marc 48, 279 Correns 127 tourist information 203 business hours 293, 294 chambres d’hôte 30 costs 17, 293 tours 197 chapels, see churches & accommodation 30, 290 cathedrals travel to/from 203 C food 291 travel within 203-4 Châtaignier de Madame de Morgiou 166 (tree) 128 Côte Bleue 168 Calanque de Port-Miou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cotignac 126-7 B 166, 12 205-7 cours Saleya 8, 10, 45, 10 Baldaccini, César 154, 279 Calanque de Sormiou 166 châteaux courses Bandol 140 Calanque d’En-Vau 166, 131 Château d’Avignon 187 cooking 32, 86 Banon 250 calisson d’Aix 173 Château de Lacoste 242 language 292 Barcelonnette 257 Callas 123 Château de Tarascon perfume production 102 Bargemon 123-5 Camargue, the 13, 41, 226 courses Camarguaises bathrooms 295 186-9 Château de 180, 183, 184 beaches 21 Camp des Milles 175 Vauvenargues 175 credit cards 293 Antibes 91 camping 30 Château des Baux 225 Cucuron 244 Cannes 82 canal boats 299 Château d’If 154 currency 16, 293 Corniche de l’Estérel 105 Cannes 40, 82-8, 84 Château du Barroux 213 customs regulations 290 Île de Porquerolles 134 accommodation 79, Château du Bois 158, cycling 21, 35, 36, 297, 299 83, 85-6 237 Marseille 151 Camargue, the 187, 190 activities 82 children, travel with 38-9 Monaco 63 Collobrières 129 drinking 87-8 314 cycling continued Féria Pascale 24 Jardins de la Fontaine Les Baux-de-Provence Gorges du Verdon 251 Festival d’Aix-en- 226-7 225-6, 12 maps 292-3 Provence 171 Jardins de l’Abbaye 204 Ménerbes 242-3 Mont Ventoux 214 Festival d’Avignon Les Jardins du MIP 103-4 Oppède-le-Vieux 243 Orange 210 25, 197 Parc du Château 45 Peillon 58 Vaison-la-Romaine 210 Festival de Cannes Prieuré de Salagon 248 Ste-Agnès 77-8

INDEX INDEX 82, 83 Vallée de la Roya 264 Gassin 121 history 21, 268-75 Festival des Chœurs gay travellers 162, 291 holidays 293-4 Lauréats 210 Gigaro 121-2 horse riding 35, 36 Festival International C- D Gigondas 212 Camargue, the 187  dangers, see safety du Cirque de Monte-­ L Gitan pilgrimage 190 hostels 30  Dentelles de Montmirail Carlo 24 211-13 Fête de la Transhumance Golfe de St-Tropez 122 hotels 29 digestifs 288 25, 223 Gorbio 77-8 Hyères 137-8 Digne-les-Bains 256-7 film 82, 83, 280 Gordes 231, 234-5 Jazz à Juan 91 Gorges de Daluis 260 Digue à la Mer 187 I Gorges de la Nesque 215 disabilities, travellers with Nice Jazz Festival 49 Île de Porquerolles 133-5, 295-6 film, see cinema Gorges d’Oppedette 238 130 Gorges du Loup 98-9 diving 35, 37, 131, 130 flamingos 137, 186, 13 Île de Port-Cros 136, 130-1 Cassis 167 Fontaine-de-Vaucluse 220-1 Gorges du Verdon 11, 251-6, Île du Levant 136-7 11, 22 Corniche de l’Estérel 105 food 21, 31-4, 284-8, 291, Île Ste-Marguerite 89 see also individual Gourdon 98 Île de Port-Cros 136 Île St-Honorat 89 locations Grand Luberon 239-40 drinks 31-4, see also wine, Îles de Lérins 88-9 Appellation d’Origine Grande Corniche 11, wineries Îles d’Hyères 133-7 Protégée (AOP) 284 61-2, 22 language 305 Îles du Fun 133-7 Bistrot de Pays 249 Grasse 100-3, 101 driving, see car travel Îles du Frioul 154 bouillabaisse 33, 160 Grimaud 122 immigration 296, 297 cooking courses 32, 86 Grotte de Ste-Madeleine E costs 291 165 impressionist painters 276-7 economy 266 etiquette 34 Grotte de l’Observatoire insurance 291-2 electricity 290, 292 language 304-6 68, 268 internet resources 17, 292 embassies 291 olive oil 225, 284 itineraries 26-8 emergencies 17 seafood 284-5 emergency services H truffles 24, 210, 285 Haute-Provence 42, 245-64 language 306 Forcalquier 158, 248-9 accommodation 245 J Entrecasteaux 126 Fôret des Cèdres 240 food 245 jardins, see gardens Ernst, Max 175 Formula One Grand Prix 25, highlights 246-7 Jewish people 215-16, Escoffier 97 270, 273 68, 66 planning 245 etiquette 19, 34, 288 Fort Ste-Agathe 134 Haut-Var 122-30 Eurotunnel 298 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré health 291 K events, see festivals & 100, 277 Héliopolis 136 kayaking 35, 37, 23, 131 events Fréjus 106-8, 107 hiking 21, see also walking see also canoeing, exchange rates 17 French Revolution 271 rafting Digne-les-Bains 256 Èze 61, 22 Camargue, the 188 Gorges d’Oppedette 238 Île de Porquerolles 135 G Gorges du Toulourenc F Galimard (perfume) 102 214 Les 166 ferry services 299 gardens Gorges du Verdon 251-2 Pont du Gard 229 festivals & events 23, 24-5, Arboretum Marcel Luberon, the 239 Kelly, Grace 61, 72, 274 see also individual Kroenlein 261 Mont Ventoux 214 kitesurfing 187 locations Colline St-Eutrope 207 Vallée de la Vésubie 262 Klein, Yves 279 Carnaval de Nice 24, 49 Domaine du Rayol 132 Vallée du Haut Verdon Choralies 210 Jardin Botanique 259 Chorégies d’Orange L Exotique du Val Vallée du Haut-Var 260 La Capte 137 25, 207 Rahmeh 76 hilltop villages 23 La Celle 127-30 Corso de la Lavande 256 Jardin Conservatoire de Bonnieux 240-2 La Croisette 82 Féria d’Arles 183 Plantes Tinctoriales 244 Èze 61, 22 La Fontaine 220 Jardin de l’Alchimiste Gorbio 77-8 La Garde Freinet 128 224-5 Gordes 231, 234-5 La Motte 123 Map Pages 000 Jardin Exotique 68 Gourdon 98 Lac d’Allos 259 Photo Pages 000 Grimaud 122 315 Lac de Quinson 253 truffles 210 Monastère St-Paul de N Lac de Ste-Croix 253 Marseille 11, 41, 144-65, Mausole 222 Napoléon Bonaparte 271-2 Lacoste 242 148-9, 152-3, 5, 146-7 monasteries, see abbeys & national parks & reserves Lagarde d’Apt 237 accommodation 141, monasteries 22, see also gardens language 303-9 155-7 money 16, 17, 290, 293 Alpha, Le Parc des Loups courses 292 drinking 162-3 money changers 293 262

transport schedules 299 entertainment 163 Mont Ventoux 13, 213- Domaine de la Palissade INDEX festivals 155 15, 13 187 lavender 158-9, 213, 158-9 Montagne Ste-Victoire 175 Parc National de Port- Abbaye Notre-Dame food 141, 157-62 Cros 136 -de Sénanque 158, gay travellers 291 Monte Carlo, see Monaco  L highlights 142-3 motorcycle travel 261, 298, Parc National du  P 234 ,231 Mercantour 256-64 Château du Bois 158, internet resources 156 300-2 Parc Naturel Régional du 237 itineraries 144 maps 292-3 Luberon 237 Distillerie du Siron 251 lesbian travellers 291 road rules 300, 301-2 Réserve Géologique de Musée de la Lavande Mouans-Sartoux 104 planning 141 Haute-Provence 258 234 Mougins 103-5 shopping 163-4 Réserve Nationale de Plateau de Valensole mountain biking 22, 35, 36, sights 144-5, 150-1, Camargue 186 158, 250, 158 see also cycling 154-5 Village des Tortues 128 Sault 158, 215, 158-9 Mont Ventoux 214 tourist information 164 New Realism 279 Le Barroux 213 Vallée de L’Ubaye 258 tours 155 newspapers 292 Le Corbusier 73, 151, 282 travel to/from 164-5 mountain climbing see Nice 40, 45-58, 50-1, 34 Le Lavandou 129, 132 hiking, rock climbing travel within 165 accommodation 44, Le Rocher 63 Moustiers Ste-Marie 253-5 Massif de la Ste-Baume 49-53 legal matters 292 Moyenne Corniche 11, 61 165 drinking 55-6 Les Alpilles 12, 222-9 Massif de l’Estérel 105-8 museums 145, see also art galleries & art muse- entertainment 56 Les Arcs-sur-Argens 123 Massif des Maures 128-29 ums, artists festivals 49 Les Arènes (Arles) 180 Matisse, Henri 45, 96, Camp des Milles 175 food 44, 53-5 Les Arènes (Nîmes) 226 277-8 Centre de la Vieille highlights 46-7 Les Baux-de-Provence Mayle, Peter 242, 283 Charité 150 planning 44 225-6, 12 measures 292 Citadelle de St-Tropez shopping 56 Les Calanques 12, 165-6 medical services 291 113 sights 45, 48 lesbian travellers 162, 291 Ménerbes 242-3 Fondation Alexandra tourist information 57 L’Estaque 168 Menton 40, 74-7, 75 David-Néel 256 tours 48 L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue 218-20 accommodation 44, 76 Musée Archéologique travel to/from 57 literature 266, 283 drinking 76-7 106 travel within 57-8 history 269, 270, 273, festivals 76 Musée de la Camargue Nîmes 226-8, 227 274 food 44, 76-7 186 Nostradamus 283 Lorgues 125 highlights 46-7 Musée de la Lavande 234 Lourmarin 243-4 planning 44 Musée de la Vallée 257-8 Luberon, the 8, 42, 230- sights 74-6 Musée de la Préhistoire O des Gorges du Verdon 44, 9 tourist information 77 Observatoire de Haute- accommodation 230 253 Provence 249 travel to/from 77 Musée de l’Histoire food 230 Mistral, Frédéric 283 Obersvatoire Onithologique Maritime 113 de Mérindol 244 highlights 232-3 mobile phones 16, 295 Musée des Civilisations Observatoire Sirene 237 planning 230 Molinard (perfume) 102 de l’Europe et de ochre sites 235, 236 Monaco 15, 40, 62-73, la Méditerranée olive oil 225, 284 66-7, 15 (MuCEM) 145, 11 M opening hours 293, 294 Maison Carrée 226 accommodation 44, 69 Musée d’Histoire de Marseille 151 Oppède-le-Vieux 243 Malaucène 215 drinking 70-1 Musée Escoffier de l’Art Orange 207-9, 208 Man in the Iron Mask, entertainment 71-2 Culinaire 97 the 89 festivals 68-9 Musée International de maps 292-3 food 44, 69-70 la Parfumerie 100 P markets 8, highlights 46-7 painting 276-9 8-9 Musée Masséna 48 Aix-en-Provence 174 planning 44 Musée Sirènes et Palais des Papes 14, 196, 14 Avignon 205 shopping 72 Fossiles 255 Palais Princier de Haute-Provence 252 sights 62-3, 68 Villa Méditerranée 145 Monaco 63 Luberon, the 241 tourist information 72 music 281 paragliding 22 Marseille 164 travel to/from 72 festivals 25, 49, 91, Gorges du Verdon 252 St-Tropez 121 travel within 72-3 207, 210 Les Gorges du Loup 98 316 parks, see national parks & Renoir, Pierre-Auguste Gorges du Daluis 260 Théâtre Antique (Orange) reserves 97, 277 Gorges du Verdon 251, 207 passports 296, 297 reserves, see national 254, 254 Théâtre Antique pastis 287-8 parks & reserves Grande Corniche 61 (Vaison-la-Romaine) 210 Pays de Forcalquier 248-50 Richerenches 210 Haute-Provence 261 theft 294-5 Pays de Venasque 221 rock climbing Haut-Var 124

INDEX INDEX Thermes de Constantin Peille 58 Digne-les-Bains 256 Route des Crêtes 132 182 Peillon 58 Gorges du Verdon 252 Routes de la Lavande Thermes Sextius 171 Pèlerinage des Gitans 190 Roman sites 158, 250 Three Corniches, the 58-62 P- perfume production 100-1, Arc de Triomphe Séguret 212  time 295 V 102 (Orange) 207 Seillans 125  tipping 293 Pernes-les-Fontaines 218 Arc Romain 217 senior travellers 290 toilets 295 Petit Luberon 240-3 Arles 180, 182 Simiane La Rotonde 250 Torpes 113 Petrarch 283 Cryptoportiques 182 skiing & snowboarding petroglyphs 263, 268 Fréjus 106-8, 107 35, 37 Toulon 41, 138-9 Peynet, Raymond 91 Gallo-Roman Ruins discounts 290 tourist information 295 phone services 16, 295 209-10 Mont Ventoux 215 Tourrettes-sur-Loup 99 Picasso, Pablo 89-90, 94, Jardins de la Fontaine Vallée de L’Ubaye 258 Tourtour 125-6 175, 278 226-7 Vallée du Haut Verdon train travel 298-9, 302 Plage de Pampelonne Les Arènes (Arles) 180 259 travel to/from Provence 119-20 Les Arènes (Nîmes) 226 skydiving 252 297-9 planning Maison Carrée 226 snorkelling, see diving travel within Provence 299-302 basics 16-17 Place du Forum 182 snowboarding, see skiing & budgeting 17 Pont du Gard 10, 229, 10 snowboarding Treaty of Nice 275 calendar of events 24-5 Pont Julien 241 southern Alps 42, 245-64 trekking, see hiking, walking children 38-9 Site Archéologique de St-Michel l’Observatoire truffles 24, 210, 285 first-time visitors 18-19 Glanum 222 249-50 TV 292 internet resources 17 Théâtre Antique (Arles) St-Paul de Vence 95-6 180 itineraries 26-8 St-Raphaël 106 Théâtre Antique regions 40-2 St-Rémy-de-Provence U (Orange) 207 222-4 repeat visitors 20 Unesco sites Théâtre Antique St-Saturnin-lès-Apt 236-7 Arc de Triomphe travel seasons 16 (Vaison-la-Romaine) St-Tropez 13, 41, 112-19, (Orange) 207 Plateau de Valensole 158, 210 114, 13 250, 158 Gorges de la Nesque 215 Thermes de Constantin accommodation 109, 113, politics 267 182 Mont Ventoux 13, 213- 115, 116 15, Pont du Gard 10, 229, 10 Trophée des Alpes 61 13 drinking 117-18 Palais des Papes 14, Pont St-Bénezet 196 Vaison-la-Romaine festivals 113 196, 14 population 267 209-10 food 109, 115-17 Parc Naturel Régional du Port Grimaud 122 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin highlights 110-11 Luberon 237 Presqu’île de Giens 137-8 73-4, 11 internet resources 112 Pont du Gard 10, 229, 10 Presqu’île de St-Tropez Roussillon 235-6 planning 109 Théâtre Antique 112-22 Route des Crêtes 167 shopping 118 (Orange) 207 Promenade des Anglais 45 Route du Temps 251 sights 112-13 public holidays 293-4 Route Napoléon 271 tourist information V 118-19 vacations 293-4 tours 113 R S vaccinations 291 radio 292 safaris 187 travel to/from 119 Vaison-la-Romaine 209-11 rafting 21, 37, see also ca- safety 294-5 Ste-Agnès 77-8 Vallauris 94 noeing, kayaking Saignon 239-40 Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer Vallée de la Durance 250-1 Gorges du Verdon 252 Saint Phalle, Niki de 279 189-92 Vallée de la Roya 263-4 Rainier III 72 Salin de Badon 187 Suzette 212-13 Vallée de la Tinée 261-2 Ramatuelle 120-1 Salon de Provence 176 Synagogue de Carpentras Vallée de la Vésubie 262-3 Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer Salle des Mariages 74 215-16 Vallée de L’Ubaye 257-9 129, 132 Sanary-sur-Mer 139-40 Refuge d’Art 256 Vallée des Merveilles Sault 158, 215, 158-9 T 263, 268 scenic drives 22-3 taxis 302 Vallée du Haut Verdon Camargue, the 191 telephone services 16, 295 259-60 Map Pages 000 Col de Restefond de la Théâtre Antique (Arles) Vallée du Haut-Var 260-1 Photo Pages 000 Bonette 261 180 Van Gogh, Vincent 180, 317 182, 222, 276 visas 16, 296 Sentier des Ocres Bandol 140 Vasarely, Victor 279 235, 22 Bonnieux 241 Vaucluse Mountains 231-7 Sentier du Littoral 113 Cassis 167 W Sentier Vigneron 243 Vaugines 244 wakeboarding 37 Châteauneuf-du-Pape walking tours 205-6 vegan travellers 286 walking 35-6, 189, see also vegetarian travellers 286 hiking Aix-en-Provence 171 Correns 127 Venasque 221-2 Aix-en-Provence 171 Arles 183 Dentelles de Montmirail INDEX 212, 213 Vence 96-7 Camargue, the 189 Marseille 155 Île de Porquerolles 134 Vieux Nice 10, 45, 51, 10 Cap d’Ail 78 Pernes-les-Fontaines 218

-Les Arcs-sur-Argens 123  V Vieux Port (Marseille) 144- Cap Ferrat 60 weather 16, 290

Luberon, the 241, 242  W 5, 146-7 Corniche de l’Estérel 105 weights 292 Nice 49 Villa Santo Sospir 60 Domaine des whale watching 59 Village des Tortues 128 Courmettes 99 wildlife watching 36-7 wolves 262 Villefranche-sur-Mer 58-60 Gorges du Verdon 251-2 wine 21, 286-7, 288 World Heritage sites, see Unesco sites Villeneuve-lès-Avignon Île de Port-Cros 136 wineries WWI 272-3 204-5 maps 292-3 Aix-en-Provence 176 WWII 175, 273-4 vineyards, see wineries Menton 78 Avignon 197 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Alexis Averbuck St-Tropez to Toulon, Marseille to Aix-en-Provence, Arles & the Camargue, Avignon & Around Alexis Averbuck first came to Provence when she was four and now vis- its every chance she gets. Whether careening through hilltop villages in the Haut- Var, exploring art and antiquities in Arles, or browsing markets in the Dordogne (she also contributes to the France book), she immerses herself in all things French. A travel writer for two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and is also a painter – see her work at www.alexisaverbuck.com. Read more about Alexis at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck Oliver Berry Plan Your Trip, Hill Towns of the Luberon, Haute-Provence & the Southern Alps, Understand Provence & the Côte d’Azur, Survival Guide Oliver Berry is a travel writer and photographer based in Cornwall. He has worked on many guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including several editions of the bestselling France guide. He first travelled to Provence on a family holiday aged two, and has been travelling back at every possible opportunity ever since. For this book he covered the Hill Towns of the Luberon and the mountains of Haute-Provence, covered 3582km, got lost six times and ate an awful lot of olives and fruit confits. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com. Read more about Oliver at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/oliverberry Nicola Williams Cannes & Around; Nice, Monaco & Menton British writer Nicola Williams has lived in France and written about it for more than a decade. From her hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, it’s an easy hop to France’s hot south where she has spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary art, ar- chitecture, cuisine and landscape. In 1998 she wrote the 1st edition of Provence & the Côte d’Azur and worked on several subsequent editions. Her travels these days are frequently in the company of her three trilingual children. Find Nicola on Twitter at @Tripalong. Read more about Nicola at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/NicolaWilliams

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – Jan 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 566 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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