Thangamuthu Suganthi1*, Pandurangan Senthilkumar1, Thermal Comfort Properties Venugopal Dipika2 of a Bi-layer Structure for Volleyball Sportswear DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1227885

1 Department of Textile Technology, Abstract PSG College of Technology, The thermal comfort properties of different knitted fabric structures made from modal, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India polypropylene and micro denier were studied for volleyball sportswear. Eleven * E-mail: [email protected] knitted fabrics were produced, in which three samples were single jersey, two plated and 2 Department of Apparel Technology, six bi-layer knitted structures. The air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal PSG Polytechnic College, conductivity, wicking and drying ability of bi-layer knitted fabric made up of polypropylene Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India as the inner layer and modal as the outer layer with one tuck point of repeat were found to be higher as compared to other bi-layer, plated and single jersey structures. Both the objective and subjective results show that bi-layer knitted fabric with polypropylene as the inner layer and modal as the outer layer with one tuck point of repeat is mostly suitable for sportswear. The results are discussed together with multivariate ANOVA test results at a 95% significance level. Key words: bi-layer, performance, sportswear, thermal comfort, subjective analysis.

of the clothing to dissipate body heat and layer with hydrophobic synthetic fibre; perspiration on the other [8]. polypropylene was used due to its high water transfer capillarity, lightweight and The wear comfort of active sportswear easy care properties, and micro-denier can be achieved by thermo-physiologi- polyester was used, which is ideal for cal, skin sensorial, ergonomic wear and wicking perspiration away from the skin. psychological comfort. Liquid transport- Introduction ing and the drying rate of fabrics are two vital factors affecting the physiological Materials and methods Active sportswear is a kind of sportswear comfort of garments [9, 10, 11]. Region- which requires higher moisture transfer al distribution of sweat takes place on Three different types of , namely properties than commercial sportswear the human body and it has been report- modal, texturised polypropylene and mi- [1]. Sportspersons are much more con- ed that back area sweat is substantially cro denier polyester (M/s. Sumukha Im- scious of sportswear and demand more higher than the chest area of players [12]. pex, Coimbatore, Tamilnadu India) were specific functions to be performed by it. The performance of layered fabric in used for sample preparation. The yarn As a result, a few fibres and fabrics are thermo-physiological regulation is better linear density for modal and polypropyl- emerging to satisfy the stringent needs than for a single layer structure [13, 14, ene is 147 Decitex and for micro denier and developments arising mainly in the 15, 16, 17]. areas of comfort and aesthetic accepta- polyester – 167 Decitex. bility [2, 3]. Sports garments are worn For doubled layer fabric, it is recom- next to the skin and are key to the phys- mended that the inner layer, which Fabric iological comfort of an athlete, and their touches the skin, is made from synthetic Bi-layer knitted fabrics were developed attributes in this aspect are critical to his materials that have good moisture trans- on an interlock jacquard knitting ma- or her performance [4]. In traditional fer properties, such as polyester, acrylic, chine (Mayer & Cie – OVJA36), with sportswear, players face many problems nylon and polypropylene. For the outer a machine diameter of 30 inch, machine such as sweating, feeling hot while run layer, materials that have good moisture gauge of 20, total number of needles of and improper strechability. The main absorption properties such as , 3744 and number of feeder of 36. Elev- functional requirements of volleyball are wool, viscose or their blends are recom- en samples were knitted, in which three sweat absorption, fast drying and cooling mended [18]. samples were plain single jersey struc- [5]. Sportswear’s foremost property is tures, two samples single jersey plated to evaporate perspiration from the skin The aim of this study was to develop structures, and six samples were bi-layer surface, and the secondary property is to a bi-layer knitted fabric that will achieve knitted structures (Table 1, see page 76). transfer the moisture to the atmosphere a high level of clothing comfort for [6]. High active sportswear should have sports and active wear. Characteristics of The prerequisites of ideal sportswear are stretch and elastic recovery to provide this special knitted structure concern the rapid transport of perspiration away from sufficient fit and freedom of movement existence of two different fabric surfaces: the body and then its rapid evaporation to the wearer [7]. Sports clothing should the outer surface is the absorption layer to keep the fabric dry. This is achieved be capable of maintaining heat balance with hydrophilic properties, in which by a bi-layer knitted fabric construction between the excess heat produced by the modal yarn was used due to its high in which the inner layer is made of poly- wearer due to the increased metabolic moisture absorption property; the inner propylene or micro- denier polyester fil- rate, on the one hand, and the capacity surface is considered as the separation ament yarn, which is hydrophobic and

Suganthi T, Senthilkumar P, Dipika V. Thermal Comfort Properties of a Bi-layer Knitted Fabric Structure for Volleyball Sportswear. 75 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2017; 25, 1(121): 75-80. DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1227885 Sample code Cam and needle order area and fabric thickness was measured according to the ASTM D3776 [20] and S1, S2, S3, X X ASTM D1777-96 [21] standards, respec- S4 and S5 X X tively. The tightness factor of the knitted structures was determined using the fol- lowing equation: F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 Tightness factor (K) = √T / l (1) DN1 o X - X - - X - X - S6 and S7 DN2 - X - X - o X - X - Where T is the yarn liner density in tex CN1 o - X - X - - X o X and l is the loop length of the fabric in cm. CN2 - - X - X o - X - X Thermal comfort characteristics of samples ... F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 The air permeability of the knitted fabric F36 structures were measured using KES–F8 DN1 X - X - X - X - - AP1, with the Air Permeability Tester S8 and S9 DN2 X - X - X - X - - following the BS 5636 1990 standard [22]. Thermal conductivity is an intrin- CN1 - X - X - X - X X sic property of material that indicates CN2 - X - X - X - X X its ability to conduct heat. Lee’s disk in- CN3 o X - X - X - X X strument was used to measure the ther- mal conductivity according to Standard By changing the tuck frequency of S6 or S7 S10 and S11 ASTM D7340 [23]. The evaporative in every odd feeders dish method based on BS 7209:1990 Dial needles: Two tracks [24] was used to determine the water va- DN1-Dial Needles Track 1; DN2-Dial Needles Track 2 pour permeability of the fabrics. A strip Cylinder needles: Three tracks CN1-Cylinder Needles Track 1; CN2-Cylinder Needles Track 2; of 20 cm × 2.5 cm test fabric at 20°C & CN3- Cylinder Needles Track 3 65% RH was suspended vertically with F1, F2, F3,...... F35, F36-Number of feeders; X-Knit stitch; o-Tuck stitch; - -Miss stitch its lower edge (0.5 cm) immersed in a reservoir of distilled water. The rate of Figure 1. Cam and needle order of fabrics. rise of the leading edge of the water was then monitored for longitudinal wicking [25]. The static immersion method, which Table 1. Fabric sample code details follows Standard BS 3449 [26] was used Sample Code Details to evaluate the amount of water absorbed S1 100% Modal – Single Jersey Fabric by the fabric. The drying behaviour of the S2 100% Polypropylene – Single Jersey Fabric fabric was tested as a continuous process S3 100% Micro Denier Polyester – Single Jersey Fabric from absorption process. The fabrics were S4 40% Modal and 60% Micro Denier Polyester – Plated Fabric wetted according to the static immersion S5 40% Modal and 60% Polypropylene – Plated Fabric method and were dried in a drying oven S6 40% Modal and 60% Polypropylene – Bi-Layer (five tuck point) at 30°C for 30 minutes to simulate natural S7 40% Modal and 60% Micro Denier Polyester – Bi-Layer Fabric (five tuck point) drying [25]. S8 40% Modal and 60% Polypropylene – Bi-Layer Fabric (one tuck point) S9 40% Modal and 60% Micro Denier Polyester – Bi-Layer (one tuck point) Subjective evaluation of fabrics S10 40% Modal and 60% Polypropylene – Bi-Layer Fabric (seven tuck point) S11 40% Modal and 60% Micro Denier Polyester – Bi-Layer (seven tuck point) 15 male players with a mean and stand- ard deviation age of 23 years (1 year), body mass 55.9 kg (2.9 kg), and height has a good wicking rate. The outer layer ble situation for players and affecting their 1.7 m (0.03 m) participated in this study. is made up of regenerated fibre such as performance. Sweat generated in the mi- All participants provided written consent modal, which has more absorption and cro climate part should be transferred and to participate. The survey was carried out rapid evaporation. The fabric which has evaporated to the atmosphere to keep the for 8 days and followed a standardized to form the inner layer is fed in the dial fabric dry. This can be achieved by the de- procedure when approaching partici- needle and the outer layer in the cylin- velopment of a bi-layer structure in which pants, and proper directions were giv- der needle. The cam and needle order is the inner layer is made up of hydrophobic en to them. Subjective evaluation was shown in Figure 1. characteristic yarn and the outer layer of conducted at the following conditions: hydrophilic characteristic yarn. Temperature – 26°C, RH – approximate- More heat dissipation occurs across the ly 76%, approximate wind velocity – back, under the arm, as well as at the Physical characteristics of samples 9.36 km/hr and time of play – 5.30 pm. shoulder, waist line and crotch level. Due The course density and wale density were The purpose of subjective evaluation is to heat generation, sweat is accumulated measured according to the ASTM D3887 to know the suitability of sports activity in sportswear, leading to an uncomforta- standard [19]. The fabric weight per unit with respect to the product design and

76 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2017, Vol. 25, 1(121) climatic conditions. The sportswear was Table 2. Fabric geometric parameters of samples developed. given to the volleyball players in hot Sample Stitch Areal density Loop length Thickness Tightness climatic conditions. Parameters such as Code density g.m-2 mm mm factor (K) the clamminess, dampness and thermal S1 2264 112 2.9 0.58 13.26 sensations were chosen for subjective S2 1906 91 3.1 0.56 13.42 evaluation. The subjective evaluation is S3 1760 85 3.3 0.53 13.82 purely based on the psychological feeling S4 1974 123 3.1 1.00 11.46 of the sports person, which is rated using S5 2112 141 2.9 1.20 11.84 Hollie’s subjective comfort rating scale S6 3392 143 3.1 0.87 12.48 [27]. While playing, each subject has S7 3674 152 2.9 0.91 12.54 to rate the sportswear for selected com- S8 2016 118 3.1 0.69 12.12 fort sensations like stiffness, stickiness, S9 2444 126 2.9 0.72 12.28 non-absorbence, dampness, clamminess, S10 3968 158 2.9 0.97 12.64 coldness, roughness and scratchiness. S11 3080 136 3.1 0.84 12.34 The comfort descriptor is rated using the intensity scale: 4 (partially), 3 (mildly), 2 (definitely) and 1 (totally) [28]. Table 3. Thermal comfort properties of samples developed.

Air Coefficient Statistical analysis Water vapour Longitudinal Moisture Drying Sample permeability, of thermal cm3.s-1.cm-2 permeability, wicking, absorbency, behaviour, The relationship between the structures Code -2 -1 conductivity, g.m .day -1 -1 cm percentage minutes was analysed using ANOVA at a 95% Dry Wet W.m .K confidence level. The coefficient of cor- S1 182 122 1224 0.024 4.5 55.6 14.3 relation obtained on the basis of rank is S2 191 146 1424 0.021 4.8 52.3 12.6 called Spearman’s Rank Correlation. S3 242 161 1325 0.019 4.3 61.8 13.8 The Spearman’s Rank Correlation (r) is S4 253 184 1116 0.018 5.8 72.6 11.8 a crude method of computing the corre- S5 196 156 1254 0.038 4.2 78.1 10.9 lation between two characteristics. In this S6 964 724 1892 0.026 8.5 88.7 8.6 method, various items are assigned ranks S7 826 622 1745 0.031 8.2 93.1 9.1 according to the two characteristics and S8 1244 884 2450 0.052 9.8 80.5 6.5 a correlation is computed between these S9 1210 851 2116 0.045 9.2 82.2 11.2 ranks. S10 815 642 1834 0.032 7.9 95.4 7.2 S11 986 785 1926 0.028 7.1 85.9 10.3

Results and discussion other. As a result, the air permeability of a steady state, moisture vapour transport Fabric geometric parameters bi-layer knitted fabrics can decrease with through fabrics is controlled by the diffu- Table 2 below shows the geometrical increased stitch density and thickness. sion process, which is influenced by the properties of all eleven samples devel- fabric structure, thickness and openness. oped. The areal density of the fabric var- During activity, usually the sports per- Fabric S7 had the lowest air permeability ies according to the fabric structure. son’s body dissipates heat, leading to value because of its higher thickness. Fi- the formation of sweat. In this wet state, bre-related factors, such as the cross-sec- Air permeability fabric should have enough air permeabil- tional shape and moisture absorbing The air permeability value of bi-layer ity so that vapour transfer will be strong properties, do not play a significant role. fabric with one tuck point in S8 and S9 enough. If air permeability in the wet The fabric of low moisture vapour per- was greater than for the other fabrics due state is not sufficient, it leads to the ac- meability is unable to pass sufficient per- to the structural variation and decrease in cumulation of sweat on the skin. It is ob- spiration, leading to sweat accumulation stitch density, as shown in Table 2 and served that fabrics S8 and S9 have more in the clothing, and hence discomfort. Table 3. A lower air permeability value air permeability in a wet state, followed was observed in single jersey and plated by S11 and S6. In a wet state the modal Thermal conductivity structures, because loops are very closely absorbs moisture and swells, which de- Thermal conductivity is a function of packed, becoming closer than in bi-lay- creases the air permeability. Thus the air fabric material, thickness and structure. er structures. The air permeability value permeability of fabric in a wet state was The highest thermal conductivity value was lower for S6, S7, S10 and S11 due to comparatively lower than for fabric in was observed for the S8 fabric, as shown the presence of more tuck points, higher a dry state due to water present in a free in Table 3, whereas the lowest was ob- thickness and increased number of loops liquid state between yarns also trapping served for the S6 fabric. The reason is present in the unit area. The air flow air movement through the fabric. that fabric S8 had the lowest thickness, principle states that the flow of air will be and the higher the volume of dead air less in thicker fabric and more in thinner Water vapour permeability within a textile structure, the lower fabric. Even though the thickness is less The bi-layer knitted structures of fabrics the thermal conductivity will be. Even for single jersey structures S1, S2 and S8 and S9 had higher water vapour trans- though bi-layer fabrics S8 and S9 possess S3, the presence of more tuck stitches port than the other fabrics because their high air permeability due to thickness in S8 and S9 increases the passage of air thickness and weight were lower than for and structural variation, it was found that from one side of the fabric surface to the the others (Table 3). This is because, in they possess higher thermal conductivity.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2017, Vol. 25, 1(121) 77 that the wicking of modal is very low as compared to polypropylene. The longitu- dinal wicking height is increased for all fabric types for a given period of 5 min- utes. Among the bi-layer knitted fabrics, S8 and S9 had a higher wicking rate due to their lowest stitch density and thickness, followed by fabrics S6, S7, S10 and S11 (Table 3). Plated fabrics S4 and S5 had the lowest wicking rate compared to bi-layer fabrics due to having a higher thickness than bi-layer fabrics. Bi-layer fabrics S10 and S11 had the lowest wicking ability due to higher thickness and the presence of a greater number of tuck loops.

Figure 2. Comfort descriptor rating before washing. Absorbency When fabric is subjected to heavy sweating conditions, not all the sweat absorbed by the fabric can be given off to the atmosphere instantaneously. Thus to prevent the wearer from feeling wet and clammy moisture should be stored in the fabric. Maximum absorbency was found to be high in S10 and S7, followed by the other samples. From Table 3, it is clearly shown that the bi-layer knitted structures have a high amount of water absorbency when compared to the plated structure. The higher the stitch density, the more the amount of moisture that can be stored by the fabric, and the better the performance of the fabric would be under Figure 3. Comfort descriptor rating after wash. moderate to heavy sweating conditions. Bi-layer fabrics with five and seven tuck points had higher absorbency than one- Fabrics S6, S7, S10 and S11 had greater Wicking tuck point bi-layer fabrics because their variation than the bi-layer fabrics with Wicking is the spontaneous flow of liquid thickness and weight were higher than one tuck point. It is important to note in a porous substrate, driven by capillary for S8 and S9. that the higher number of tuck points and forces. The capillary forces caused by consequent increase in thickness shows wetting is wicking [29]. The longitudi- Drying behaviour a comparatively lower thickness than for nal wicking height determines the liquid Moisture transfer is a critical factor for one tuck point bi-layer fabrics. The pres- transporting ability, and the faster the rate the thermoregulation of body heat. Mois- ence of polypropylene in S8 proved to of wicking, the better the sweat transport- ture on the skin or clothing increases the be beneficial due to its very good- ther ing ability will be, hence the fabric feels heat loss of the body and also affects mal characteristics, keeping the wearer more comfortable to wear [30]. Longitu- its overall performance and endurance. warm in cold weather and cool in warm dinal wicking was observed only on the Therefore clothing should have a quick weather. polypropylene side since it is well known drying ability property. S8 had a higher

Table 4. ANOVA multivariate data analysis of thermal comfort properties.

Between single jersey and plated fabrics Between bi-layer knitted fabrics Thermal comfort Sum of square value Sum of square value properties F F P F F P (SS) actual critical value (SS) actual critical value Air permeability in dry state 20464.24 2144.61 2.87 <0.0001 844498.71 62166.88 2.62 <0.0001 Air permeability in wet state 10213.43 1234.5 2.87 <0.0001 367875.46 23229.44 2.62 <0.0001 Water vapour permeability 240682 31.41 2.87 <0.0001 1626791.45 65724.14 2.62 <0.0001 Thermal conductivity 0.00112 157.94 2.87 <0.0001 0.0032 183.07 2.62 <0.0001 Longitudinal wicking 7.84 614.38 2.87 <0.0001 24.26 244.05 2.62 <0.0001 Moisture absorbency 2443.21 8901.41 2.87 <0.0001 1112.84 833.5 2.62 <0.0001 Drying behaviour 41.72 492.28 2.87 <0.0001 79.08 698.15 2.62 <0.0001

78 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2017, Vol. 25, 1(121) Table 5. Spearman’s coefficient of rank better results were taken for the garment Funding Acknowledgement correlation before and after washing. making process. After garment produc- tion, a questionnaire was prepared and The authors would like to thank the All India Sample Coefficient of rank correlation Council for Technical Education (AICTE), code before and after wash (r) given to the 15 players. The sportswear New Delhi, India for the issuing of a grant un- S6 0.994 was given to them before washing and der the Research Promotion Scheme (RPS) S7 0.946 after washing. The average comfort rat- vide Ref. No. 20/AICTE/RIFD/RPS(POLI- S8 0.930 ing of the comfort descriptor before and CY-III)3/2012-13 dt. February 12, 2013 to S9 0.932 after washing is shown in Figure 2 and carry out the research work. S10 0.994 Figure 3, respectively. 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Textile Team leader: Krystyna Twarowska-Schmidt, Ph.D., Eng., Research Journal 2012; 82: 820- 831. tel. (+48 42) 638 03 24, e-mail: [email protected]

Received 30.11.201524.03.2015 Reviewed 13.03.201630.04.2015

80FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015, Vol. 23, 6(114) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2017, Vol. 25, 1(121)81